I know some same era bikes had a lever used to mitigate cylinder compression for easy starting and a manual advance / retart lever, all these on the handlebars. Where are these controls on this bike and what part would they play in the starting process
Great question! This machine does not have a handlebar lever for manual ignition advance, because it has automatic ignition advance via an integral unit on the sprocket end of the magneto. This was the common fitting for most twin-cylinder British machines in the 1940s and 50s. Most single-cylinder machines (and a few twins) had manual ignition control from a handlebar lever. Single cylinder engines of 500 cc and more usually had a handlebar lever that would allow you to lift the exhaust valve slightly, so it would be easier to use the kickstart lever to roll the engine just past TDC on the compression stroke before giving it a long, swinging kick to start it. British 500 cc twins did not need the decompressor lever because the cylinders fire 180 degrees apart, so a 500 twin is nearly as easy to kick over as a 250 cc single.
Thanks for the very clear explanation. I remember years ago I tried to kick start an old British bike belonging to a friend of a friend and I damn near broke my foot not knowing how to use the decompression facility.
I should have also mentioned that, when starting the larger single-cylinder bikes, it is critical to correctly set the ignition timing using the handlebar lever. If the timing is too late (ignition retarded) it will never fire, but if it's too far advanced it may kick back (always startling and sometimes painful). Obviously there is more to know when starting a big single than starting a twin, like mine.
@@racyclecrank Sorry for bumping in this old topic, I understand the 500cc single cylinder is certainly difficult to start, is the twin Model 7 difficult to start as well?
I seams a great reflection of the time it was built, that you had to spend 10 mins to set up and start a motorcycle.....and then another 10 to warm it up. A time when money was not time in quite the same way, But then if food was rationed, then may be time was not. But then a large chunk of a century later the thing is still running !
Nice job! I just put the finishing touches on a 1953 Triumph Thunderbird. I'm hoping someday to get an old British flattie like yours or a BSA M33. I love the 40's and early 50's workhorse bikes. I hope you are enjoying riding yours! Post a video update any time!
It has the usual 12-hole timing cover (stamped inside with the same code as the crankcase, so I assume it's original), and the rocker end covers are separate from the rocker spindles. This machine was built in March 1950.
I'm restoring one for ages, now. Your tank painting is sublime, since it is perfect! Most of the restorations I've seen, have the painting all wrong. Just a repair if you don!t mind....the dipper switch is supposed to be black. Originally it was in bakelite but there are very nice replicas now. Also the choke lever that you have was made by Amal from '56 on. The original doesn't have a screwdriver slot to adjust, it has an hexagonal top. Please don't take my comments as a critic, it's just tjat the bike is so nice that if you want to add an extra 'originality' these two details would make it even more close to the origunal. Good work! I just can't wait to hear mine 'singing!! Did you put a 19' or 21' wheel at front? Could you give me the name of the fuel pipes supplier?
Thanks for your comments. Shortly after I filmed the video I located an original dip switch, rewired it, and it's in place now. I did not realize that earlier choke levers had a hexagonal top. The bike has a 21-inch front wheel. The fuel hoses I made up from pieces of NOS British fuel line that I found at a swap meet in Canada. Period photos suggest Norton was using steel braided fuel hoses for a few years around 1950. Perhaps it was military surplus at the time.
Wow, I bought one of these in the early sixties, for the princely sum of £9 ... rode it for a few weeks, then, one frosty night, I kicked it off and petrol must have got into the magneto, and it set fire and was ruined .... what would it have been worth today .... it don't bear thinking about
hi very Nice Norton . i just bought a 1951 N 7 twin i need some help what is the best Manuel books and restoration books i can buy . i like the Chrome and paint . were or can i check if the colors is bulk and silver . im steve . o i in the same purchase i all so have a 1974 Norton 850 comondo they are retro ones .
Probably the most important books are (1) the original Maintenance Manual and Instruction Book for Model 7 Dominator, (2) the original factory parts book, (3) Modern Motorcycle Mechanics by J.B. Nicholson (any edition after 1953, though the edition from the late 1960s is helpful because it includes torque specs for fastener tightening), and (4) Norton Twin Restoration by Roy Bacon. Other helpful books are the Haynes Norton Twins Owners Workshop Manual (covers 1957-1970, but 99% of it applies to 1949-1956 also) and Norton Motor Cycles by E.M. Franks (published 1952 by Pearson).
For answers to your questions regarding your 1951 Model 7, you could join this group: groups.io/g/nortonmodel7. There are many good resources online for Commandos. The owners clubs are recommended, Norton Owners Club and the INOA. Good luck.
Very good, beutiful and rare, they didnt last long, 1st one I`ve seen. . Technical terms; it is British, so, kick-starter & choke control is pronounced lee ver, calling it a levver is wrong, like arksing questions, just wrong! Levver is what shoes are made of. :)
I don't think it was that simple. There were many dynamics occurring from the mid 50s into the early '70s that caused the bottom to drop out for the British bikes. I began work as a mechanic in a shop, very successful one, that sold both British brands and Japanese ones. To me, it was the foresight of marketing and the rapid expansion of the U.S. market that caught the British makers off balance to compete and they never really caught up. Too many other factors that brought it down mixed in as well. For sure, this is a very sweet and unusual restoration and glad to see it done in a way to show off the handsomeness of the machines of the era.
I know some same era bikes had a lever used to mitigate cylinder compression for easy starting and a manual advance / retart lever, all these on the handlebars. Where are these controls on this bike and what part would they play in the starting process
Great question! This machine does not have a handlebar lever for manual ignition advance, because it has automatic ignition advance via an integral unit on the sprocket end of the magneto. This was the common fitting for most twin-cylinder British machines in the 1940s and 50s. Most single-cylinder machines (and a few twins) had manual ignition control from a handlebar lever. Single cylinder engines of 500 cc and more usually had a handlebar lever that would allow you to lift the exhaust valve slightly, so it would be easier to use the kickstart lever to roll the engine just past TDC on the compression stroke before giving it a long, swinging kick to start it. British 500 cc twins did not need the decompressor lever because the cylinders fire 180 degrees apart, so a 500 twin is nearly as easy to kick over as a 250 cc single.
Thanks for the very clear explanation. I remember years ago I tried to kick start an old British bike belonging to a friend of a friend and I damn near broke my foot not knowing how to use the decompression facility.
I should have also mentioned that, when starting the larger single-cylinder bikes, it is critical to correctly set the ignition timing using the handlebar lever. If the timing is too late (ignition retarded) it will never fire, but if it's too far advanced it may kick back (always startling and sometimes painful). Obviously there is more to know when starting a big single than starting a twin, like mine.
Thanks for the additional clarification. I suppose hitting the correct advance position is a product of rider experience.
@@racyclecrank Sorry for bumping in this old topic, I understand the 500cc single cylinder is certainly difficult to start, is the twin Model 7 difficult to start as well?
That a natural sound of the bike and very clean engine work has been done fantastic job
This bike is stunning I want one
My dream is to have a Dominator like this.
I seams a great reflection of the time it was built, that you had to spend 10 mins to set up and start a motorcycle.....and then another 10 to warm it up. A time when money was not time in quite the same way, But then if food was rationed, then may be time was not. But then a large chunk of a century later the thing is still running !
But it starts easier that the other bigger bore Norton twins of UA-cam!
What a beautiful bike!
Nice job! I just put the finishing touches on a 1953 Triumph Thunderbird. I'm hoping someday to get an old British flattie like yours or a BSA M33. I love the 40's and early 50's workhorse bikes. I hope you are enjoying riding yours! Post a video update any time!
♥️ she's a real beauty, beautiful sound
What a Gorgeous Bike
When you see the quality of British bikes from the past it is hard to comprehend how the entire industry shut down .
Coupled with world leading mismanagement .
immaculate restoration... lovely... i have the same bike but not as good as her
Does this Model 7 have the early 11 hole Timing Cover and one-piece Rocker end cover / spindle???
It has the usual 12-hole timing cover (stamped inside with the same code as the crankcase, so I assume it's original), and the rocker end covers are separate from the rocker spindles. This machine was built in March 1950.
Beautiful.
Thank you!
fantastic bike, great work! I have a 1954 domi. in restoration.
Beautiful! Too nice to ride!
Beatiful machine!
My Grandad had one in hes young days :)
Nice job done. ...
I'm restoring one for ages, now. Your tank painting is sublime, since it is perfect! Most of the restorations I've seen, have the painting all wrong. Just a repair if you don!t mind....the dipper switch is supposed to be black. Originally it was in bakelite but there are very nice replicas now. Also the choke lever that you have was made by Amal from '56 on. The original doesn't have a screwdriver slot to adjust, it has an hexagonal top. Please don't take my comments as a critic, it's just tjat the bike is so nice that if you want to add an extra 'originality' these two details would make it even more close to the origunal. Good work! I just can't wait to hear mine 'singing!! Did you put a 19' or 21' wheel at front? Could you give me the name of the fuel pipes supplier?
Thanks for your comments. Shortly after I filmed the video I located an original dip switch, rewired it, and it's in place now. I did not realize that earlier choke levers had a hexagonal top. The bike has a 21-inch front wheel. The fuel hoses I made up from pieces of NOS British fuel line that I found at a swap meet in Canada. Period photos suggest Norton was using steel braided fuel hoses for a few years around 1950. Perhaps it was military surplus at the time.
Smooth sound ah 👌
wow fantastic bike
excelent video !
Wow, I bought one of these in the early sixties, for the princely sum of £9 ... rode it for a few weeks, then, one frosty night, I kicked it off and petrol must have got into the magneto, and it set fire and was ruined .... what would it have been worth today .... it don't bear thinking about
Beautiful..!
I want one.
lo mejor compa
hi very Nice Norton . i just bought a 1951 N 7 twin i need some help what is the best Manuel books and restoration books i can buy . i like the Chrome and paint . were or can i check if the colors is bulk and silver . im steve . o i in the same purchase i all so have a 1974 Norton 850 comondo they are retro ones .
Probably the most important books are (1) the original Maintenance Manual and Instruction Book for Model 7 Dominator, (2) the original factory parts book, (3) Modern Motorcycle Mechanics by J.B. Nicholson (any edition after 1953, though the edition from the late 1960s is helpful because it includes torque specs for fastener tightening), and (4) Norton Twin Restoration by Roy Bacon. Other helpful books are the Haynes Norton Twins Owners Workshop Manual (covers 1957-1970, but 99% of it applies to 1949-1956 also) and Norton Motor Cycles by E.M. Franks (published 1952 by Pearson).
I’ll take it!!!
hi need some ponters for my 1951 twin 7 norton and my 1974 norton 850 they are in booth retro work
For answers to your questions regarding your 1951 Model 7, you could join this group: groups.io/g/nortonmodel7. There are many good resources online for Commandos. The owners clubs are recommended, Norton Owners Club and the INOA. Good luck.
model 7 is the most sexy in it class.a very nice bike u have..so envy...
Very good, beutiful and rare, they didnt last long, 1st one I`ve seen. .
Technical terms;
it is British, so, kick-starter & choke control is pronounced lee ver,
calling it a levver is wrong, like arksing questions, just wrong!
Levver is what shoes are made of. :)
Haha, you tell em, Levver shoes, I got some of them,
Classy
First bike i ever rode, had to build it from pieces first.
nice
Dam shame that slave labor cheap killer machines coming out of Japan at the time destroyed all those famous British motorbike companies .
I don't think it was that simple. There were many dynamics occurring from the mid 50s into the early '70s that caused the bottom to drop out for the British bikes. I began work as a mechanic in a shop, very successful one, that sold both British brands and Japanese ones. To me, it was the foresight of marketing and the rapid expansion of the U.S. market that caught the British makers off balance to compete and they never really caught up. Too many other factors that brought it down mixed in as well.
For sure, this is a very sweet and unusual restoration and glad to see it done in a way to show off the handsomeness of the machines of the era.
esta muy chico el cilindro :-) :-) :-)
Perhaps. But 500 cc was considered big when it was built, 350 was normal, and 250 was small.
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slow down dude you talk too fast cant understand a word you say