You sir have been a huge source of information for us all. Because of watching all your videos over and over again, I am now on my third scratch built tube amplifier! I love the sound so much I sold all my other amps! I hope your shop assistants and yourself are doing great. Keep the videos coming!!
@@UncleDoug Had a question for you, If I'm using a PT with 120mA HV secondary. Do I need to use a filter choke thats rated for 120mA? or does the filter choke only need to be rated for the current your actually drawing from that secondary? I have a 100mA filter choke I want to use but the PT secondary is rated at 120mA. Would it blow the filter choke?
+kardRatzinger Thanks, Kard. I understand there are several other meanings for the term, but I think you can see why it's particularly appropriate in this case :)
I have serviced countless amps over at least 35 years or more and never run into this type of problem. It has always been a bad capacitor in most cases that caused the motor boating, but in the open winding of one side of the tap the sound was distinctively different. Your analyzes of half the active tap does suggest the capacitor is charging and discharging creating that most unusual sound, and after careful thought I have come to the same conclusion you have, and agree with your findings. "Well Done"
+John Cunningham Thanks, John. I've never seen it before in a guitar amp, and it's good to know that I'm not alone. It now seems to perform and behave quite well, so the problem appears to be fixed.
Doug: Nicely done. Great piece of deductive reasoning and trouble shooting. This "eaten" transformer would be rare to most people, but with more than three decades of repairing broadcast transmitters and other remote location electronics, I have replaced many chewed on components, removed at least three snakes from blower inputs and scrubbed more than my share of rodent urine from circuit boards.
Thanks, Ross. One of my favorite "de-animalizations" was the removal of a putrid rat's nest, constructed mainly of tin foil, from the chassis of a really nice early tweed Gretsch amp......I shudder to think about the "light show" that might have occurred if I had simply plugged it in, as-is.
Uncle Doug, I appreciate your videos and technical expertise. I had a volume fade problem with my Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 50 a few months ago. I am a guitarist,not an amp repair technician so I took my amp to a man referred to me by a friend. After spending 282.00 I brought the amp home and had the same problem. Volume fade and then after a few minutes it may or may not work "correctly". After searching and reading many forums I came across someone who had the exact same problems I was having. I ordered a new $2.95 bridge rectifier and installed it myself. Then I learned that after making such a repair it is necessary to check the bias voltage. I nearly burned up my power tubes. They looked like light bulbs. Max voltage should be 45 ma and mine were around 96ma. A readjustment and my amp has not sounded so good in years. Now if I could only figure out a way to add a separate EQ to the amp and lower the high gain white noise it would truly be what an amp should be. Being able to EQ the clean channel and the dirty channel separately is no brainer and I have often wondered why Marshall didn't include this in the original design. Thanks again for your videos sir .
You're welcome, Troy, and congratulations on a successful repair of your amp. That was a close call on the plate current. I shudder to think what your plate dissipation was at 96mA for each output tube. To reduce your gain and mellow things out a little, you might try experimenting by substituting lower gain duo-triodes (12AT7, 12AU7, 12AY7, etc.) for one of the 12AX7's in your pre-amp.
Ahhh, I was under the impression that my power tubes were burning so hot due to the failing Bridge rectifier that was in the amp originally. After installing a new one that is beefed-up according to the specifications I assumed that was the reason why the voltage changed on my power tubes. 45 milliamps is maximum for my amplifier readjusting the bias after replacing the bridge rectifier has put the amplifier back in correct operating condition. I am an automotive technician by trade so I do understand alternating current and direct current. I am slowly learning the current flow in a guitar amplifier and why components do what they do.
Tubes overheat when the plate voltage and plate current within them is too high. This would not be the result of a failing rectifier or a new rectifier, but because the bias of the tubes is set incorrectly. Biasing involves more than simply adjusting the plate current. You should watch my video on biasing of double-ended amplifiers to see and understand the full process.
Rusty the Wonder Dog awesome. the little mouse that chewed on your Transformer not so is awesome I find in vintage well-lit magnification in close-up inspection saves me a lot of call backs thanks another great video
Cheers to Rusty and yourself sir...A big thanks for not being afraid to share this information with us in a video format. I greatly appreciate your knowledge.
HA! I actually "guessed" the problem before you got to the conclusion, and I only even mention it because this is a credit to you sir, for teaching me all I know about tube amps! Thanks for another great video!
+Marvio Botticelli You're welcome, Marvio. It looks like the student has progressed beyond the teacher :) Rusty and I are glad the videos were helpful. Thanks for watching.
This is one of the most brilliant repairs I've seen you do. I've mentioned it before, but that emphatic tapping on amplifier components you do has brought so much joy to my life. My new wife and I laugh a lot when doing the Uncle Doug Tap. You should patent it. We are big fans and hope to meet you someday.
Another good one from Uncle Doug and his enthusiastic pet. Just wanted to say thank you for the tip about the analog meter. I have a Simpson 260 also, but I largely kept it for posterity. Now I have a good reason to use it, maybe.
+Barnekkid Analog meters can perform tasks that digital meters cannot. They are both very valuable and useful tools. By all means, dust it off and begin using it, BK. You will wonder how you ever did without it :)
Hi Doug, still trawling through your videos in my quest for electronic knowledge. Unusual noise and great fix. It's amazing all the things that can go wrong in an amp circuit. I know this is one of your older videos, but enlightening non the less. Good to see Rusty' enthusiasm brimming over. Look forward to anything new in the pipeline..Thanks again for all this knowledge..Ed..U.K..😀
Another great demo of fault finding and selection of suitable repair materials. After watching Rusty's reaction over a number of videos i don't think he's camera shy. I reckon he's waiting for a proper remuneration deal before he'll stay in front of the camera. Maybe get your people to talk to his people ?
Uncle Doug Im sorry to hear this Uncle Doug, he looked like such a nice boy. I love our dogs like children, sometimes I think even more because my dogs don’t disrespect me, lol. All the wonderful creatures need is love, food, water and a warm bed and they are totally content and give back love in such great magnitude. Keep up the great work with your very helpful videos, you have furthered my knowledge considerably, and for this I thank you sir, God bless 🙂❤️
Usually, motor-boating is caused by poor, or bad B+ supply bypassing, and I would have suspected one or more of the supply filter caps as being at fault, so this is a new one on me.
I suspect that the high voltage was able to arc across the small break in the transformer winding, providing a route for sequential discharge of the filter caps.
Hey Uncle Doug, great video and, once again, glad Rusty solved the mystery! Very educational, I learn alot from watching you guys work. I hope Rusty isn't pushing you too hard. My Husky Igloo pushes me hard sometimes, but he says it's for my own good, and I guess he's right. Have a great day and keep the great videos coming!
I LOVE these old Davis amps, so cool. I have a pair of Infinity speakers to "re-foam" (replace the foam surrounds on the cones) tomorrow, baby steps, lol. Maybe one day I can work my way up to re-coning a speaker...maybe. As always very informative and helpful video! Thanks
Nice one Doug. I've never been lucky enough to find the broken end of the winding - usually buried down inside somewhere. Thanks for another great video. Cheers, John
You're welcome, John. I figure there is nothing to lose, so I root around looking for the broken lead and am sometimes able to find it.....but not always :)
Hi Uncle Doug (and Rusty) - That was a Masterful diagnostic procedure and your repair was positively surgical - a job equal to any Vascular Surgeon!. Thoroughly entertaining and (as always) extremely interesting. Please keep 'em coming.
Hey Uncle Doug & Rusty, Good to see you boy's up to your old trick's. Good diagnosis and repair, you are good. I am learning so much from your amp video's I almost feel qualified, not. I hope all is well with you and your's. 80's comin' here in Oregon and looking green with the leave's coming on. Take care, C.
***** Hey Sceaming deal, Yes, very nice . I'm just outside Willamina, so not to far from Lincoln City. I've seen some nice day's at LC. Will take the winter's for the summer's. Thanks for commenting. Be good, C.
+Cass Virgillo Hey fellow Oregonian! The weather was perfect here in Portland today. Good day for beers, music, and top it all of with a super cool Uncle Doug video. What could be better?
BrianOfAteionas Hey Brian, I couldn't agree more. Happy 1st. Uncle Doug is my favorite channel. I'm getting part's together to build a Fender 5F1 Champ as seen in his 2 part video series. Take care, C.
+Cass Virgillo It looks like you Northwesterner's are having a nice chat. Thanks for all the nice comments.....Rusty and I really appreciate hearing from you all.
Great, as usual. It struck an immediate chord with me, as I have a transistor P.A. amp, which developed the same problem. One minute it was working, with my Fender going through it - the next thing, all hell broke loose, and at a high rate of level! I'm sure you said that the problem on yours was caps, in the power supply? Maybe I'll climb in there and see what I can do, otherwise I'll have to spend some (a lot of) pennies! Keep 'em coming! Ben.
+Ben Morris Thanks, Ben. In my case, it was caused by an open primary winding in the output transformer, but filter caps are a more common cause of the problem.....usually accompanied by a hum. Good luck with the repair.
Great surgery on the output transformer and finding the primary coil end (without making the patient any worse). Best ever for me was managing to (accidently?) find, clear and re-insulate a shorted pair of leads on the core of a Twin Reverb II power transformer. Good luck too, an "in kind" rewind by Mercury Magnetics was going to be over $300 (for a $500-600 amp.).
Good find Uncle Doug. I love the old Simpson 260, that one looks just like the ones I used in the Navy. (Back when I still remembered most of the stuff they taught me during my year & a half of Aviation Electricians training. We went in depth on vacuum tubes, etc. Unfortunately I rarely used any of that knowledge in the decades following. I'd even forgotten the resistor "code" about "Bad boys....etc". Perhaps that's why I enjoy these videos so much, I'm forever thinking,"wow, now I remember that.) Youth is indeed wasted on the young.(at least in my case.)
Wow, that's very interesting, congrats for finding the fault Uncle Doug. I actually didn't know that you could find and much less correct a break in a transformer winding, I really learned several things today. Thank you Uncle Doug...
+Buddy Martin You're welcome, Buddy. The trick is to find the other end of the broken lead. Most of the time, I can, and if so then it's generally fairly easy (not on the eyes) to mend the break. Once repaired, the OPT is generally as good as new.
I bet your fun guy to hang out with ... lol ... I love your sarcasm ... Priceless ... ))) ... Thx for the Knowledge Uncle Doug ... ))) ... Also , Priceless ... ))) ... Blessings to you and your other half ... Say hey to Rusty for me , oh Yea ... Kitty ... )))
Thanks, TA. Sarcasm is like aftershave lotion......a little can go a long way :) But when it's directed at objects and deeds, rather than specific individuals, I tend to like it too......as you can probably tell ;) The pets all say "Hi".
As usual another fine vidio Uncle Doug I like what Ypu did for the output transformer for the amp very logicle choice of methods I was a service technician at a chevy dealership and used high temp silecone Sealers and twopart Fast or slow hardening epoxies For some repairs on things I think I would do the same as you. Wish I had a shop like yours live long and Prosper. Dwight from Detroit,Mi.
+Paul Passat You're welcome, Paul. I have heard it before, when working on radios, but have never encountered the problem with a guitar or PA amp. It generally "putts" at a faster rate, but the sound is unmistakable.
I love your videos! Thank you so much for passing down your knowledge to us all... and future generations. I noticed this video has one thumbs down, somebody must have hit the down button by mistake... I can't believe anyone would dislike any of your videos.
Hi Doug, I just watched your channel for the first time. Very enjoyable to watch this repair and I guess I picked a very unusual problem to watch for my first view of your channel. It was actually recommended I should check your channel out by Chris from Australia (The Guitar Amp Tech) Channel as he said you were a pleasure to watch. I agree, and also think Chris is a pleasure to watch as well, so hats off to both of you for being excellent teachers in explaining details. (Thanks Chris for referring me to watch Doug should you see this). I will continue to watch both very instructional channels as I really would love to learn a lot more about tube amps and troubleshooting/repairs. I am currently in search of a video of how to measure the voltage across the cathode resistor on my A/B class small tube amp (It has two 6L6 tubes w/cathode bias). Just thought I'd say hello...and Rusty is definitely cool. I have two Rescued Dogs and one Rescued Cat...All The Best from NJ... Phil NYC Area
Greetings, Phil, and thanks for all the very nice comments. We're glad you found our channel and assure you that we've posted videos showing exactly the procedure you inquired about. Please see the one about cathode biasing.
@@UncleDoug Thanks Doug, I surely will. The reason this came up (checking cathode bias resistor) is I have a small combo amp, hand wired by a very small company in AZ called Red Plate (most people never heard of them). The amps are immaculately hand wired... My model (Black Loop model) has a Cathode bias and Keith from Red Plate (who built the amp) assures me I can put two 6V6 power tubes in the amp to replace the two 6L6 tubes. The one thing I must do (according to Keith with my cathode bias amp) is to turn the speaker ohm selector on the amp, from the current 8 ohm position, to 4 ohms to allow the 6V6 tubes to live in harmony with the amp. There's a lot more to his explanation why I can do this swap, with him also alluding that current 6V6 tubes are much more robust now and able to handle much higher voltages. (I am leaving quite a bit out as to Keith's explanation, but trying to be brief. His full explanation would give better context and details and glad to share it). Keith did also say however, that a 6L6 amp, (like my Red Plate amp), will sound better if using 6L6 tubes, as intended. So hence, I wanted to measure the cathode bias resistor before putting a pair of 6V6s in the amp (6V6s to only use for recording) and not live. Thanks. Phil NYC Area
@@uptownphotography Phil, I have no experience with Red Plate amps. Since the load resistance of 6V6's is higher than 6L6's it seems strange that you switch to a lower impedance (4 Ohm) for the 6V6's.....watch my video on the Impedance Ratio to see why. However, if the guy who built the amp says to do that, then he probably knows what's best for the circuit. I personally don't understand the desire to replace the 6L6's with 6V6's......it seems like taking a risk for no real benefit......but best of luck.
@@UncleDoug Basically, I want to do the swap to get the amp to break up and overdrive at lower sound levels (more like a Fender Princeton would do) so that when recording at my home studio, I don't bring the house down and disturb other people in the house. Hope that makes sense, but I totally get your point. Maybe, I'll just buy a smaller 6V6 tube amp for recording (hopefully that does not cost too much) and just use that for recording. Budget is a concern right now until I am working a full schedule again with my photography (The virus impacted it badly)....Thanks all The Best. Phil
@@uptownphotography Sorry to hear of your business setbacks, UP.....I hope things improve for you. The difference in breakup volume won't be all that great, I'm afraid. Have you considered investing in an attenuator? They aren't cheap, but they are very effective. Good luck.
+Donald Filbert The diameter of a tranny coil wire only depends on the current flowing through at first glances. As being this one the wire of the primary coil the current through it is rather small.
Just repaired a 30w double ended amp with a 250mS motorboating fault. Figured it would be a big cap problem what with the low frequency repeat and changed both B+ filter caps to no avail. After much head scratching decided the best option would be to inject and trace a signal. Turned out to be a dodgy phase inverting tube that was causing the problem. Note to self and anyone else who may encounter similar :- Always start with the easiest option when amp fault finding as assumption will almost invariably lead you down the wrong path costing time and possibly money.
Nice job on a successful repair. I really like the look of these amps. Unusual and cool. I guess they'll join Alamo Amps as the only vintage amp companies I'm aware of from Texas.
+The Guitologist Thanks, Brad. Yes, they are very well-made, attractive, compact, and functional. I would say they are one of the best candidates I can think of for guitar conversion.....and, as you said, one of only two brands I can think of from Texas :)
Indeed sir, the low, but still slightly present voltage would seem to indicate a slight charging of a capacitor then breakdown conduction bleeding (in the rectifier) off the charge and repeating... there would be some induction even with the open winding to build up a charge with very limited current capacity since it’s basically functioning as an antenna at that point... nice find and fix...
I love your videos! They make it very easy to understand how a amp and the components work! At the moment my diy amp (JCA20HV like amp) make a single "knock" when I get over 10 o'clock, 1 o'clock and 4 o'clock with the master volume. When I pull one El84 out, the amp starts with motorboating but only when I set the master exactly at this 3 points... Very strange. Never had a problem like this.
Uncle Doug thanks for answer! :) Yes I checked them all twice....all seems to be fine. I cut of the negative feedback; the motorboating is gone now. Maybe I should take a closer look at die PI/whole PA. Thanks you With best regards from Germany
Hi, I can't find the main issue... I believe there is a much bigger issue in my amp. Do you ever had an issue like, that the plate voltage go down by turning the bias Poti? With best regards
Hey there Doug! I'm new to your channel, and I love your vids! I'm a guitar tech looking to get into amp repair and your videos have been a great insight into it! Cheers!
Oh man, do I wish I still had that old Sunn Sentura II. After doing a bit of work on it ...tone stack and adding a bypass cap to brighten it up after a bit it developed a ticking noise in the audio. As I say if I still had that amp, it would be interesting to see just hwat caused it. The amp worked but it had that tick motor boating instead of a lower frequency thump. As always another fine video and Rusty as usual makes a great producer.
+Cameron Walker Thanks, Cameron. It's good to be back. Hopefully, some vintage rock amps will show up for sale or repair. If they do, I will definitely feature them in videos.....so stay tuned :)
When you consider the size of the international audience, JT, I guess the presence of 11 slimy, belly-crawling, juvenile idiots isn't all that great a percentage :)
Hello Doug. What a wonderful treat, to find another awesome video from you, waiting in my email. :) Though Molly is laying on her back sound asleep She sends her regards to You Rusty and handsome Jack. Has always very well done,in both fun and very Educational . I really hope to see more videos from you. All my best. Bobby
Hey Uncle Doug. That's a great lesson again. A thing that caught my attention is your analog voltmeter because I have the same. It needs a bit of maintenance, but my interrogation was about it's power. I was wondering if there was a way to power it other than with the many batteries. I reckon they are powering different parts of the circuit, but perhaps there is a way to simplify the thing.
Nice litte repair video, excellent work, Doug!...thanx for sharing! :) Not very uncommon...i seen a lot of amps with open (=got loose somehow) windings, so sad... Some people don´t treat their gear well... Especially in old radios this open pri winding problem is very common but here mostly from "cooking" the OPT. When a coupling cap on the output tube got leaky the bias is usually too hot and this is mostly the reason why the primary coil of the OPT cuts if the radio is on for a longer period. Is it will still work, but not for higher volumes, but at low volumes it is hardly being noticed that there is indeed something wrong with it.
+TubiCal You're welcome, TC. I don't recall ever having seen (or heard) a guitar amp motorboat like this one. Is it a normal byproduct of an open OPT primary winding ?
No in general, but they almost will do any silly thing you can think of.....I even had an amp on my bench which was doing well until its volume had been cranked up to about 70%...the owner said the overall volume was reduced...It was a nearly class A PP 6V6 amp... Another one was oscillating when a signal was fed into...another one distorted (that´s what i do expect when having such an issue) I found that open (terminal) connections mostly happened in Amp heads. And also these had been seeing a lot of traveling... I guess some tranny companies don´t expect huge vibrations...but they do occur.... The other thing is when Amps have seen vast overload conditions....wrong speaker impedance and/or underrated speakers connected....if a speaker dies it usually have a shorted out voicecoil and smoke the OPT. Or it opens and if it´s the only speaker it takes the OPT with it as well....No load, causes heavy reflected voltage and this causes arcings in the primary... I whish the Amp makers would take these conditions into account when they "design" them circuits....But they simply don´t... It´s not that hard...a 47Ohms permanent parallel connencted resistor may be 25Watts would help prevent overarcing with no load may in conjunction with a external arcing path/spark gaps (for example, all philips ProAudio Tube Amps during 50s/60s had these builtin) Also a snubber network (usually 10Ohms in series with several hundred pico farads) will help to prevent arcing due to no load conditions even with a connected speaker at high frequencies (if it somehow tries to oscillate, or the speakers impedance rises along with higher frequencies) And an in series fuse at the speaker terminals 1.5times max. rated output current helps when a short circuit occurs. All these "mods" are rather cheap, but helps the OPT to stay save, even at full blast and/or roasted speakers. But in order to maximize profit they put cheap and flimsy trannies inside.... If i take a look in a today´s made "name" tube head and compare it to some made in the 60s/70s the iron is noticeable smaller....ok we have far better metalworks today, and therefore more induction headroom (0.9 to 1.1 Tesla in the old days compared to 1.5 up to 1.8T for today´s made core iron) in it...but if you have an "100Watt" rated today´s amp and its OPT can only deliver around 60Watts when measured until hard cliplling there´s something wrong, It still sounds "loud" but....hmmm...you know....not a good feeling.. That´s my two cents...;)
Nice catch, Uncle Doug....I probably would have found the fault after a few days of fuming! LOL! Always learning from your vids! Rusty is gettin' a "tude"...hanging around too much with No Action Jack-tion!
+Tim Dockery Thanks, Tim. I like to start at the beginning of the circuit/problem and move forward until the culprit is found :) I'm not sure which pet has the worst attitude.....they continually try to outdo each other.
+Uncle Doug The problem was evident right at the beginning of basic troubleshooting. Not to say you didn't explain this well. Basic troubleshooting steps: PS voltages good, then B+ at the plates of the output tubes, uh oh no B+ on one plate. Your repair was quite ingenious, as most techs would just dump that OT. Cheapskates like me, would at least investigate the OT's problem. You did well in saving that vintage OT.
Thanks, Paul. The methodical approach always seems to work well for me. I have a lot of experience repairing transformers from my old radio days, and if I can find the "other end" of the broken wire the success rate is close to 100%. In this case, the exceptionally nice original OPT was definitely worth saving.
I am just going with the experiences I have had in the past. I rewind transformers and have been doing it for 25 years. Corrosion is a really BIG problem with small wire in the primary of older output transformers.
Hello there Uncle Doug. I love all your help. And your knowledge! Wow . Wish i was half as smart as you are. Also i hoping to find a clip on a sound city 120 mark 4 guitar tube amp. On your videos. I have one that needs some work. This is the first guitar amp i bought when i was 15 years old. Fast forward 56 now. I can send it to you. And pay what you want to fix it. I think it would make a great video. Sound city amp have a huge following. Please let me know what you think. Thanks Curtis. Looking forward to your response.
Greetings, Curtis, and thanks for your nice comments. Rusty and I have retired from doing outside amp repairs, but I'll bet that if you watch some videos and do some Internet research, you could fix it yourself. Best of luck :)
Open coils are always bad news. Good thing you could solder it back together. My analog meter needs work, a couple impedance scales suddenly stopped working. The needle doesn't react to any impedance, it just falls down into the negatives and stays there. Strangely so far I have found no open resistors or anything.
Hi Uncle Doug, great video, what do we learn? Never give up searching for tiny wires, others would call it luck, I call it the Uncle Doug master repair skill (UDMRS).
+ThoMe Thanks, TM. How about this for a mantra: Perseverance provides a pleasant and proper payoff. Moral: Never give up on a part or a repair. Anything that can be broken can also be fixed.....as long as there are dog cookies for Rusty :)
Had a motorboating problem recently on a Vox Lil'Night Train (NT2H model). Also thought it would be the OT, as the fault occurred after running it on an unsupported impedance cab for about an hour (I had reports it could take it without issues or overheating, apparently true). However, the fault turned out to be in the power tube, which apparently succumbed before the OT. :-) Replaced that and the amp was as good as new. Also, as the tube structure in this low wattage amp is 12AX7/12AX7/12AU7 (Pre/PI/PT), I could swap the pre and PI tubes for that faulty 12AU7 from the power section to see what gives. It looks like, in the pre and PI positions, the tube still works just fine, also no tone issues whatsoever (except for a higher breakup point and more headroom if used in the pre section, obviously). It only motorboats when used as a power tube. I'll keep it around as spare and label it "don't use as a PT". ;-)
Thanks for sharing this experience with us, Valentin. It's interesting that some tubes will give problems in one location within the circuit but not in others.
Well, of course, apart from the broken winding! It took me back to the sixties, when we used to use radios as guitar amps, connecting up to the cap of the first valve (detector?).
Great video, I would have probably recapped the electrolytic's because I have seen an electrolytic read good, but arc over at high voltage, but that was the days before ESR meters. An ESR meter might have caught that. Not to be picky but isn't the B+ the secondary of the power transformer?
+Mark Lange Thanks, Mark, and I completely understand your preference to replace the caps. To me, because of the derivation of the term "B+", it refers specifically to the rectified, filtered, DC output of the power supply.....i.e. as if a battery were supplying it.
In these shoes I would apply, power off, a small AC voltage to the speaker terminals & measure the AC figure on each output plate to be sure the turns figure is still within a small margin of identical.
I picked up a Simpson 260 just like that at a flea market 2 weeks ago. I had to replace a corroded battery terminal and it’s ready for another 60 years of service. 😁
I love the Precision and Clarity of your videos!
Thanks, 2R :)
I love the clarity of his videos, too, but I prefer the Jazz to the Precision..
You sir have been a huge source of information for us all. Because of watching all your videos over and over again, I am now on my third scratch built tube amplifier! I love the sound so much I sold all my other amps! I hope your shop assistants and yourself are doing great. Keep the videos coming!!
That's great to hear, Miguel. Congratulations on your scratch-building success. We will :)
@@UncleDoug Had a question for you, If I'm using a PT with 120mA HV secondary. Do I need to use a filter choke thats rated for 120mA? or does the filter choke only need to be rated for the current your actually drawing from that secondary? I have a 100mA filter choke I want to use but the PT secondary is rated at 120mA. Would it blow the filter choke?
Dear Uncle Doug, you bring back a multiple dose of memories for me. Many thanks!
I hope they are pleasant ones, Tim. You're welcome.
Usually I hear the term "motorboating" used to describe something completely different than an amp failure :)
Congratulations on the repair.
+kardRatzinger Thanks, Kard. I understand there are several other meanings for the term, but I think you can see why it's particularly appropriate in this case :)
Absolutely. Usually when I hear motorboating of an amp, it reminds me of a thumper.
Sounds a lot like my Yamaha SR400 idling.
I have serviced countless amps over at least 35 years or more and never run into this type of problem. It has always been a bad capacitor in most cases that caused the motor boating, but in the open winding of one side of the tap the sound was distinctively different. Your analyzes of half the active tap does suggest the capacitor is charging and discharging creating that most unusual sound, and after careful thought I have come to the same conclusion you have, and agree with your findings. "Well Done"
+John Cunningham Thanks, John. I've never seen it before in a guitar amp, and it's good to know that I'm not alone. It now seems to perform and behave quite well, so the problem appears to be fixed.
Doug: Nicely done. Great piece of deductive reasoning and trouble shooting. This "eaten" transformer would be rare to most people, but with more than three decades of repairing broadcast transmitters and other remote location electronics, I have replaced many chewed on components, removed at least three snakes from blower inputs and scrubbed more than my share of rodent urine from circuit boards.
Thanks, Ross. One of my favorite "de-animalizations" was the removal of a putrid rat's nest, constructed mainly of tin foil, from the chassis of a really nice early tweed Gretsch amp......I shudder to think about the "light show" that might have occurred if I had simply plugged it in, as-is.
Uncle Doug, I appreciate your videos and technical expertise. I had a volume fade problem with my Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 50 a few months ago. I am a guitarist,not an amp repair technician so I took my amp to a man referred to me by a friend. After spending 282.00 I brought the amp home and had the same problem. Volume fade and then after a few minutes it may or may not work "correctly". After searching and reading many forums I came across someone who had the exact same problems I was having. I ordered a new $2.95 bridge rectifier and installed it myself. Then I learned that after making such a repair it is necessary to check the bias voltage. I nearly burned up my power tubes. They looked like light bulbs. Max voltage should be 45 ma and mine were around 96ma. A readjustment and my amp has not sounded so good in years. Now if I could only figure out a way to add a separate EQ to the amp and lower the high gain white noise it would truly be what an amp should be. Being able to EQ the clean channel and the dirty channel separately is no brainer and I have often wondered why Marshall didn't include this in the original design. Thanks again for your videos sir .
You're welcome, Troy, and congratulations on a successful repair of your amp. That was a close call on the plate current. I shudder to think what your plate dissipation was at 96mA for each output tube. To reduce your gain and mellow things out a little, you might try experimenting by substituting lower gain duo-triodes (12AT7, 12AU7, 12AY7, etc.) for one of the 12AX7's in your pre-amp.
Ahhh, I was under the impression that my power tubes were burning so hot due to the failing Bridge rectifier that was in the amp originally. After installing a new one that is beefed-up according to the specifications I assumed that was the reason why the voltage changed on my power tubes. 45 milliamps is maximum for my amplifier readjusting the bias after replacing the bridge rectifier has put the amplifier back in correct operating condition. I am an automotive technician by trade so I do understand alternating current and direct current. I am slowly learning the current flow in a guitar amplifier and why components do what they do.
Tubes overheat when the plate voltage and plate current within them is too high. This would not be the result of a failing rectifier or a new rectifier, but because the bias of the tubes is set incorrectly. Biasing involves more than simply adjusting the plate current. You should watch my video on biasing of double-ended amplifiers to see and understand the full process.
So happy to see you and Rusty making videos again. You've helped me heaps with learning and fixing amps
+Harrison Hein That's good news, Harrison.....keep up the good work. Old amps need love too :)
Will do
This is the best way to spend a Saturday watch Uncle Doug & Rusty work their magic. Thank you for teaching us!!!
+Finom1 You're welcome, F1.....glad you enjoyed the video :)
Rusty the Wonder Dog awesome.
the little mouse that chewed on your Transformer not so is awesome
I find in vintage well-lit magnification in close-up inspection saves me a lot of call backs
thanks another great video
+Bret H I agree with your analysis, Bret. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
Cheers to Rusty and yourself sir...A big thanks for not being afraid to share this information with us in a video format. I greatly appreciate your knowledge.
You're welcome, Jason :)
HA! I actually "guessed" the problem before you got to the conclusion, and I only even mention it because this is a credit to you sir, for teaching me all I know about tube amps! Thanks for another great video!
+Marvio Botticelli You're welcome, Marvio. It looks like the student has progressed beyond the teacher :) Rusty and I are glad the videos were helpful. Thanks for watching.
Nice to see Rusty is still with us! Thanks 4 your videos!
+Haroslav Drastic Like death and taxes, Haroslav, Rusty and I are here to stay :)
Excellent repair. Never give up on anything - locating and repairing the transformer problem is always so satisfying.
Thanks, David :)
I would not know a wizard with more knowledge than you Uncle Doug!
There are people out there who have forgotten more than I know, Tom.......but thanks !!
This is one of the most brilliant repairs I've seen you do. I've mentioned it before, but that emphatic tapping on amplifier components you do has brought so much joy to my life. My new wife and I laugh a lot when doing the Uncle Doug Tap. You should patent it. We are big fans and hope to meet you someday.
Thanks so much, Joel. It took many years to perfect "the tap" and I'm glad someone out there appreciates it :)
Thanks for taking us on this journey with you. So much to learn from you.
Thanks, Jim, for joining us and for posting a nice comment.
Another good one from Uncle Doug and his enthusiastic pet. Just wanted to say thank you for the tip about the analog meter. I have a Simpson 260 also, but I largely kept it for posterity. Now I have a good reason to use it, maybe.
+Barnekkid Analog meters can perform tasks that digital meters cannot. They are both very valuable and useful tools. By all means, dust it off and begin using it, BK. You will wonder how you ever did without it :)
Hi Doug, still trawling through your videos in my quest for electronic knowledge. Unusual noise and great fix. It's amazing all the things that can go wrong in an amp circuit. I know this is one of your older videos, but enlightening non the less. Good to see Rusty' enthusiasm brimming over. Look forward to anything new in the pipeline..Thanks again for all this knowledge..Ed..U.K..😀
Thanks, Ed. It's always good to hear from you.
Thanks for a great documentary on motor boating problem that happen from to time on valve amplifier. Keep up the good works you do amplifiers.
You're welcome, Kevin. Thanks for your nice comments. We will do our best :)
Another great demo of fault finding and selection of suitable repair materials.
After watching Rusty's reaction over a number of videos i don't think he's camera shy. I reckon he's waiting for a proper remuneration deal before he'll stay in front of the camera. Maybe get your people to talk to his people ?
Thanks, Andrew. Rusty is a tough negotiator, but his agent is even worse.....we're still working on his new contract :)
Some fine troubleshooting here. Well executed repair, too.
Thanks, Aaron.
I've only watched a handfull of your videos and i got to say I'm hooked....keep em coming uncle doug and say hi to rusty for me!!!!
+charlie brown We will, Charlie......and Rusty says "hi" to you all.
This gem came up in my Ewetube feed at 4am.
Love your work, Doug
Regards from Vinny in Brisbane
Thank heavens you were up to watch it, Vinny. Thanks for the nice comments :)
Wonderful demo of preservation, v/s t/s by component replacement. This is great!
Thanks, Chad :)
Thanks for the video Uncle Doug, give Rusty a hug and a treat from me too. Best wishes always.
You're welcome, Mike. Sadly, Rusty passed away several years ago, but I'm sure he would have appreciated your kindness.
Uncle Doug
Im sorry to hear this Uncle Doug, he looked like such a nice boy. I love our dogs like children, sometimes I think even more because my dogs don’t disrespect me, lol. All the wonderful creatures need is love, food, water and a warm bed and they are totally content and give back love in such great magnitude.
Keep up the great work with your very helpful videos, you have furthered my knowledge considerably, and for this I thank you sir, God bless 🙂❤️
Usually, motor-boating is caused by poor, or bad B+ supply bypassing, and I would have suspected one or more of the supply filter caps as being at fault, so this is a new one on me.
I suspect that the high voltage was able to arc across the small break in the transformer winding, providing a route for sequential discharge of the filter caps.
Hey Uncle Doug!
Great video
you are a superb diagnostician
Thanx
I am glad to see that Rusty has everything under control, as always !! LOL
You're welcome, Wayne. We appreciate it :)
Wow Back to Back gems! These videos give me such encouragement. Thankz
+Audio Tech Labs You're welcome, ATL :)
Hey Uncle Doug, great video and, once again, glad Rusty solved the mystery! Very educational, I learn alot from watching you guys work. I hope Rusty isn't pushing you too hard. My Husky Igloo pushes me hard sometimes, but he says it's for my own good, and I guess he's right. Have a great day and keep the great videos coming!
+Dave Bogusky Thanks, Dave, and regards to Igloo :)
I LOVE these old Davis amps, so cool. I have a pair of Infinity speakers to "re-foam" (replace the foam surrounds on the cones) tomorrow, baby steps, lol. Maybe one day I can work my way up to re-coning a speaker...maybe. As always very informative and helpful video! Thanks
You're welcome, Jack. Good luck with your project.
You're truly the king of amp repair
If it weren't for Rusty's guidance, I would just be an old hack :)
Great video. Loved the commentary, especially the part about grabbing a beer and pulling up a comfortable chair.
It's always a good way to begin any conversation :)
Nice one Doug. I've never been lucky enough to find the broken end of the winding - usually buried down inside somewhere. Thanks for another great video.
Cheers, John
You're welcome, John. I figure there is nothing to lose, so I root around looking for the broken lead and am sometimes able to find it.....but not always :)
Hi Uncle Doug (and Rusty) - That was a Masterful diagnostic procedure and your repair was positively surgical - a job equal to any Vascular Surgeon!. Thoroughly entertaining and (as always) extremely interesting. Please keep 'em coming.
+StonyRC Thanks, Stony. Now, if I could only get PAID like a vascular surgeon, Rusty's (and my) menu would definitely improve :)
Permatex High-Temp Silicone Gasket, who knew? I learned something today. Thanks Uncle Doug.
You're welcome, Thomas.
Hey Uncle Doug & Rusty, Good to see you boy's up to your old trick's. Good diagnosis and repair, you are good. I am learning so much from your amp video's I almost feel qualified, not. I hope all is well with you and your's. 80's comin' here in Oregon and looking green with the leave's coming on. Take care, C.
***** Hey Sceaming deal, Yes, very nice . I'm just outside Willamina, so not to far from Lincoln City. I've seen some nice day's at LC. Will take the winter's for the summer's. Thanks for commenting. Be good, C.
+Cass Virgillo Hey fellow Oregonian! The weather was perfect here in Portland today. Good day for beers, music, and top it all of with a super cool Uncle Doug video. What could be better?
BrianOfAteionas Hey Brian, I couldn't agree more. Happy 1st. Uncle Doug is my favorite channel. I'm getting part's together to build a Fender 5F1 Champ as seen in his 2 part video series. Take care, C.
+Cass Virgillo It looks like you Northwesterner's are having a nice chat. Thanks for all the nice comments.....Rusty and I really appreciate hearing from you all.
Uncle Doug Hi Uncle Doug, I've never had so many reply's to one comment. Be good, C.
my first guess, was that a capacitor was installed backwards.
Your videos are always enjoyable another 10 out of 10
+Is1amization by Immigration Thanks, I by I. I too initially suspected a filter cap as the likely culprit.
Uncle Doug, definitely enjoy your videos. Rusty Too!! 🎸
That's good to hear, GM :)
love to hear troubleshooting thought processes!
It's our pleasure to share them with you, CC.
Great, as usual. It struck an immediate chord with me, as I have a transistor P.A. amp, which developed the same problem. One minute it was working, with my Fender going through it - the next thing, all hell broke loose, and at a high rate of level! I'm sure you said that the problem on yours was caps, in the power supply? Maybe I'll climb in there and see what I can do, otherwise I'll have to spend some (a lot of) pennies! Keep 'em coming! Ben.
+Ben Morris Thanks, Ben. In my case, it was caused by an open primary winding in the output transformer, but filter caps are a more common cause of the problem.....usually accompanied by a hum. Good luck with the repair.
Thanks, Doug. (When I get round to it)!
Great video Doug! And a very unusual problem. Rusty was smart to leave it to you, tell Rusty Q-ball says hey! :)
+Randy Schartiger Thanks, Randy.....glad you liked it. Regards to Q-Ball :)
Great surgery on the output transformer and finding the primary coil end (without making the patient any worse). Best ever for me was managing to (accidently?) find, clear and re-insulate a shorted pair of leads on the core of a Twin Reverb II power transformer. Good luck too, an "in kind" rewind by Mercury Magnetics was going to be over $300 (for a $500-600 amp.).
+dennis walsh Thanks, Dennis, and congratulations on your successful (and money saving) surgery :)
Great videos for someone like me who is trying to absorb how this stuff all works. Thanks again.
You're welcome, Lefty.
Good find Uncle Doug. I love the old Simpson 260, that one looks just like the ones I used in the Navy. (Back when I still remembered most of the stuff they taught me during my year & a half of Aviation Electricians training. We went in depth on vacuum tubes, etc. Unfortunately I rarely used any of that knowledge in the decades following. I'd even forgotten the resistor "code" about "Bad boys....etc". Perhaps that's why I enjoy these videos so much, I'm forever thinking,"wow, now I remember that.) Youth is indeed wasted on the young.(at least in my case.)
Thanks, BiG........glad you enjoyed it. We do tend to lose that which we cease to use.
Wow, that's very interesting, congrats for finding the fault Uncle Doug. I actually didn't know that you could find and much less correct a break in a transformer winding, I really learned several things today. Thank you Uncle Doug...
+Buddy Martin You're welcome, Buddy. The trick is to find the other end of the broken lead. Most of the time, I can, and if so then it's generally fairly easy (not on the eyes) to mend the break. Once repaired, the OPT is generally as good as new.
I bet your fun guy to hang out with ... lol ... I love your sarcasm ... Priceless ... ))) ... Thx for the Knowledge Uncle Doug ... ))) ... Also , Priceless ... ))) ... Blessings to you and your other half ... Say hey to Rusty for me , oh Yea ... Kitty ... )))
Thanks, TA. Sarcasm is like aftershave lotion......a little can go a long way :) But when it's directed at objects and deeds, rather than specific individuals, I tend to like it too......as you can probably tell ;) The pets all say "Hi".
As usual another fine vidio Uncle Doug
I like what Ypu did for the output transformer for the amp very logicle choice of methods I was a service technician at a chevy dealership and used high temp silecone
Sealers and twopart
Fast or slow hardening epoxies
For some repairs on things I think I would do the same as you. Wish I had a shop like yours live long and
Prosper. Dwight from Detroit,Mi.
Thanks so much, Dwight. Likewise :)
Great video, many thanks! Rusty thinks you covered this so well he had no need to contribute.
+SiliconSet Thanks, SS. I guess he always thinks that way :)
Oh my gosh LOOK at that transformer! That's a keeper, have to frame it! :) You're a master, Doug.
Thanks, Michael.
Amazing TS work on finding the issue with the open winding on the output xformer. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Vince :)
My dog Tater says Rusty is one cool dog!
These are really interesting videos, and thanks so much for posting.
+Ken Davis You're welcome, Ken, and best regards to Tater :)
Jack Darr mentioned this in his book, and I had always wondered what it sounded like. Thanks for posting!
+Paul Passat You're welcome, Paul. I have heard it before, when working on radios, but have never encountered the problem with a guitar or PA amp. It generally "putts" at a faster rate, but the sound is unmistakable.
Awesome repair on this cool PA Doug. Seems Rusty's language skills are improving as well. Looking forward to your next vid, thanks4sharing.
+saturn5tony You're welcome, Tony....glad you liked it.
I love your videos! Thank you so much for passing down your knowledge to us all... and future generations. I noticed this video has one thumbs down, somebody must have hit the down button by mistake... I can't believe anyone would dislike any of your videos.
+toxicgraphix You're welcome, TG, and thanks for your very nice comments. Rusty and I really appreciate it :)
Great video and a very good repair! Got a good laugh at video beginning, sounded like someone knocking on the door! Hi to Rusty!
Thanks, Tony.
Hi Doug, I just watched your channel for the first time. Very enjoyable to watch this repair and I guess I picked a very unusual problem to watch for my first view of your channel.
It was actually recommended I should check your channel out by Chris from Australia (The Guitar Amp Tech) Channel as he said you were a pleasure to watch. I agree, and also think Chris is a pleasure to watch as well, so hats off to both of you for being excellent teachers in explaining details. (Thanks Chris for referring me to watch Doug should you see this).
I will continue to watch both very instructional channels as I really would love to learn a lot more about tube amps and troubleshooting/repairs. I am currently in search of a video of how to measure the voltage across the cathode resistor on my A/B class small tube amp (It has two 6L6 tubes w/cathode bias).
Just thought I'd say hello...and Rusty is definitely cool. I have two Rescued Dogs and one Rescued Cat...All The Best from NJ...
Phil
NYC Area
Greetings, Phil, and thanks for all the very nice comments. We're glad you found our channel and assure you that we've posted videos showing exactly the procedure you inquired about. Please see the one about cathode biasing.
@@UncleDoug Thanks Doug, I surely will.
The reason this came up (checking cathode bias resistor) is I have a small combo amp, hand wired by a very small company in AZ called Red Plate (most people never heard of them). The amps are immaculately hand wired...
My model (Black Loop model) has a Cathode bias and Keith from Red Plate (who built the amp) assures me I can put two 6V6 power tubes in the amp to replace the two 6L6 tubes.
The one thing I must do (according to Keith with my cathode bias amp) is to turn the speaker ohm selector on the amp, from the current 8 ohm position, to 4 ohms to allow the 6V6 tubes to live in harmony with the amp. There's a lot more to his explanation why I can do this swap, with him also alluding that current 6V6 tubes are much more robust now and able to handle much higher voltages. (I am leaving quite a bit out as to Keith's explanation, but trying to be brief. His full explanation would give better context and details and glad to share it).
Keith did also say however, that a 6L6 amp, (like my Red Plate amp), will sound better if using 6L6 tubes, as intended.
So hence, I wanted to measure the cathode bias resistor before putting a pair of 6V6s in the amp (6V6s to only use for recording) and not live. Thanks.
Phil
NYC Area
@@uptownphotography Phil, I have no experience with Red Plate amps. Since the load resistance of 6V6's is higher than 6L6's it seems strange that you switch to a lower impedance (4 Ohm) for the 6V6's.....watch my video on the Impedance Ratio to see why. However, if the guy who built the amp says to do that, then he probably knows what's best for the circuit. I personally don't understand the desire to replace the 6L6's with 6V6's......it seems like taking a risk for no real benefit......but best of luck.
@@UncleDoug Basically, I want to do the swap to get the amp to break up and overdrive at lower sound levels (more like a Fender Princeton would do) so that when recording at my home studio, I don't bring the house down and disturb other people in the house.
Hope that makes sense, but I totally get your point. Maybe, I'll just buy a smaller 6V6 tube amp for recording (hopefully that does not cost too much) and just use that for recording. Budget is a concern right now until I am working a full schedule again with my photography (The virus impacted it badly)....Thanks all The Best.
Phil
@@uptownphotography Sorry to hear of your business setbacks, UP.....I hope things improve for you. The difference in breakup volume won't be all that great, I'm afraid. Have you considered investing in an attenuator? They aren't cheap, but they are very effective. Good luck.
Great Video Uncle Doug !! I was surprised to see how small that wire was on the primary / High voltage side of that output transformer. Nice save !!
+Donald Filbert The diameter of a tranny coil wire only depends on the current flowing through at first glances. As being this one the wire of the primary coil the current through it is rather small.
+TubiCal Good answer, TC. Thanks.
Just repaired a 30w double ended amp with a 250mS motorboating fault. Figured it would be a big cap problem what with the low frequency repeat and changed both B+ filter caps to no avail. After much head scratching decided the best option would be to inject and trace a signal. Turned out to be a dodgy phase inverting tube that was causing the problem.
Note to self and anyone else who may encounter similar :- Always start with the easiest option when amp fault finding as assumption will almost invariably lead you down the wrong path costing time and possibly money.
Excellent advice, GB. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I wish dogs could live forever, R.I.P. Rusty. ( I also love your videos)
Me too, Henry. Thanks :)
Nice job on a successful repair. I really like the look of these amps. Unusual and cool. I guess they'll join Alamo Amps as the only vintage amp companies I'm aware of from Texas.
+The Guitologist Thanks, Brad. Yes, they are very well-made, attractive, compact, and functional. I would say they are one of the best candidates I can think of for guitar conversion.....and, as you said, one of only two brands I can think of from Texas :)
I always enjoy your vids UD and Rusty.
+Greg's Garage Thanks, Greg :)
+Greg's Garage
Hey Greg! Cool to see you here.
I love this channel... Sometimes you'll see me post as SkyScraper Guitars too!!! UD &R rock.
Thanks, Greg. Rusty and I have come to really like and appreciate our viewers....like you. What a great extended family we all belong to :)
Indeed sir, the low, but still slightly present voltage would seem to indicate a slight charging of a capacitor then breakdown conduction bleeding (in the rectifier) off the charge and repeating... there would be some induction even with the open winding to build up a charge with very limited current capacity since it’s basically functioning as an antenna at that point... nice find and fix...
Thanks, Robert.
Great repair! I'm trying to track down an intermittent problem on my Pro Reverb - I hate intermittent problems!!
Thanks, CM. So do I......they seem to occur when you are least ready to cope with them.
Great video...that amp does look like it might have spent some time in an attic or a barn...good troubleshooting. My regards to Rusty.
+Jim Lavespere Thanks, Jim. With so much rust, it must have been in a damp location....yet the wooden cabinet is in great shape. Very mysterious.
I love your videos! They make it very easy to understand how a amp and the components work! At the moment my diy amp (JCA20HV like amp) make a single "knock" when I get over 10 o'clock, 1 o'clock and 4 o'clock with the master volume. When I pull one El84 out, the amp starts with motorboating but only when I set the master exactly at this 3 points... Very strange. Never had a problem like this.
Have you checked all your electrolytic caps, including the cathode bypass caps, and your output transformer ??
Uncle Doug thanks for answer! :)
Yes I checked them all twice....all seems to be fine. I cut of the negative feedback; the motorboating is gone now. Maybe I should take a closer look at die PI/whole PA.
Thanks you
With best regards from Germany
You're welcome, Christopher. Let us know what was causing the problem, once you find out what it was.
Sure! I Let you know!
Thanks
Hi,
I can't find the main issue... I believe there is a much bigger issue in my amp. Do you ever had an issue like, that the plate voltage go down by turning the bias Poti?
With best regards
Hey Uncle Doug, Hey Rusty! Great Video, Love it!
73!
+su pyrow Thanks, SP :)
You got it good buddy!
73!
Enjoy all your videos Uncle D. Keep um comin`! Cheers!
+August Lyons Thanks, August....we will :)
Great troubleshooting. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it :)
Thanks for the transformer lessen I no very little about them nice save.
You're welcome, Ron :)
+10K on the Simpson 260! Great Detective work! That is indeed a very interesting to find.
Thanks, Mike. Glad you like it :)
You are welcome good sir. You and Rusty please keep delivering true Craftsmanship.
We shall, as long as we have encouragement from nice viewers, like you :)
Hey there Doug! I'm new to your channel, and I love your vids! I'm a guitar tech looking to get into amp repair and your videos have been a great insight into it!
Cheers!
Greetings, Zane. That's great to hear. Best of luck with your new career :)
Oh man, do I wish I still had that old Sunn Sentura II. After doing a bit of work on it ...tone stack and adding a bypass cap to brighten it up after a bit it developed a ticking noise in the audio. As I say if I still had that amp, it would be interesting to see just hwat caused it. The amp worked but it had that tick motor boating instead of a lower frequency thump.
As always another fine video and Rusty as usual makes a great producer.
Thanks, John. Rusty and I appreciate the kind words :)
Uncle Doug! Glad to have you back! Would love to see a video about some vintage rock amps and getting the perfect overdrive sound.
+Cameron Walker Thanks, Cameron. It's good to be back. Hopefully, some vintage rock amps will show up for sale or repair. If they do, I will definitely feature them in videos.....so stay tuned :)
Missed your videos.. welcome back Doug.
+Cawfee Dawg Thanks, CD. It's good to be back :)
11 thumbs down, must be jealous newbies! Thanks for another educational video Doug!
When you consider the size of the international audience, JT, I guess the presence of 11 slimy, belly-crawling, juvenile idiots isn't all that great a percentage :)
Hello Doug. What a wonderful treat, to find another awesome video from you, waiting in my email. :) Though Molly is laying on her back sound asleep She sends her regards to You Rusty and handsome Jack. Has always very well done,in both fun and very Educational . I really hope to see more videos from you.
All my best.
Bobby
+Bobby Tectalabyss Thanks, Bobby, and best regards to Molly :)
Very interesting problem, never seen that one before. Nice fix on that OT
Thanks, VC :)
Hey Uncle Doug. That's a great lesson again.
A thing that caught my attention is your analog voltmeter because I have the same. It needs a bit of maintenance, but my interrogation was about it's power. I was wondering if there was a way to power it other than with the many batteries. I reckon they are powering different parts of the circuit, but perhaps there is a way to simplify the thing.
Thanks, Francois. You could probably wire up a power supply for the Simpson meter......but batteries sure are easier.
wonderfully done. loved it, thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for the nice comments.
Nice litte repair video, excellent work, Doug!...thanx for sharing! :)
Not very uncommon...i seen a lot of amps with open (=got loose somehow) windings, so sad...
Some people don´t treat their gear well...
Especially in old radios this open pri winding problem is very common but here mostly from "cooking" the OPT.
When a coupling cap on the output tube got leaky the bias is usually too hot and this is mostly the reason why the primary coil of the OPT cuts if the radio is on for a longer period. Is it will still work, but not for higher volumes, but at low volumes it is hardly being noticed that there is indeed something wrong with it.
+TubiCal You're welcome, TC. I don't recall ever having seen (or heard) a guitar amp motorboat like this one. Is it a normal byproduct of an open OPT primary winding ?
No in general, but they almost will do any silly thing you can think of.....I even had an amp on my bench which was doing well until its volume had been cranked up to about 70%...the owner said the overall volume was reduced...It was a nearly class A PP 6V6 amp...
Another one was oscillating when a signal was fed into...another one distorted (that´s what i do expect when having such an issue)
I found that open (terminal) connections mostly happened in Amp heads. And also these had been seeing a lot of traveling...
I guess some tranny companies don´t expect huge vibrations...but they do occur....
The other thing is when Amps have seen vast overload conditions....wrong speaker impedance and/or underrated speakers connected....if a speaker dies it usually have a shorted out voicecoil and smoke the OPT. Or it opens and if it´s the only speaker it takes the OPT with it as well....No load, causes heavy reflected voltage and this causes arcings in the primary...
I whish the Amp makers would take these conditions into account when they "design" them circuits....But they simply don´t...
It´s not that hard...a 47Ohms permanent parallel connencted resistor may be 25Watts would help prevent overarcing with no load may in conjunction with a external arcing path/spark gaps (for example, all philips ProAudio Tube Amps during 50s/60s had these builtin)
Also a snubber network (usually 10Ohms in series with several hundred pico farads) will help to prevent arcing due to no load conditions even with a connected speaker at high frequencies (if it somehow tries to oscillate, or the speakers impedance rises along with higher frequencies)
And an in series fuse at the speaker terminals 1.5times max. rated output current helps when a short circuit occurs.
All these "mods" are rather cheap, but helps the OPT to stay save, even at full blast and/or roasted speakers.
But in order to maximize profit they put cheap and flimsy trannies inside....
If i take a look in a today´s made "name" tube head and compare it to some made in the 60s/70s the iron is noticeable smaller....ok we have far better metalworks today, and therefore more induction headroom (0.9 to 1.1 Tesla in the old days compared to 1.5 up to 1.8T for today´s made core iron) in it...but if you have an "100Watt" rated today´s amp and its OPT can only deliver around 60Watts when measured until hard cliplling there´s something wrong, It still sounds "loud" but....hmmm...you know....not a good feeling..
That´s my two cents...;)
Thanks, TC. Informative as usual :)
Great explanation and nice repair job. Thanks for the upload!
+Joop S You're welcome, JS :)
Nice catch, Uncle Doug....I probably would have found the fault after a few days of fuming! LOL! Always learning from your vids! Rusty is gettin' a "tude"...hanging around too much with No Action Jack-tion!
+Tim Dockery Thanks, Tim. I like to start at the beginning of the circuit/problem and move forward until the culprit is found :) I'm not sure which pet has the worst attitude.....they continually try to outdo each other.
+Uncle Doug The problem was evident right at the beginning of basic troubleshooting. Not to say you didn't explain this well. Basic troubleshooting steps: PS voltages good, then B+ at the plates of the output tubes, uh oh no B+ on one plate. Your repair was quite ingenious, as most techs would just dump that OT. Cheapskates like me, would at least investigate the OT's problem. You did well in saving that vintage OT.
Thanks, Paul. The methodical approach always seems to work well for me. I have a lot of experience repairing transformers from my old radio days, and if I can find the "other end" of the broken wire the success rate is close to 100%. In this case, the exceptionally nice original OPT was definitely worth saving.
Thanks for another fantastic and informative video. Excellent content and very entertaining
.
You're welcome, DT.....glad you liked it :)
I am just going with the experiences I have had in the past. I rewind transformers and have been doing it for 25 years. Corrosion is a really BIG problem with small wire in the primary of older output transformers.
I saw a lot of corrosion in radio transformers back before I switched to working on guitar amps, Gary, and agree that it can definitely be a problem.
Nice save Uncle Doug!!!
Thanks, JT :)
Hello there Uncle Doug. I love all your help. And your knowledge! Wow . Wish i was half as smart as you are. Also i hoping to find a clip on a sound city 120 mark 4 guitar tube amp. On your videos. I have one that needs some work. This is the first guitar amp i bought when i was 15 years old. Fast forward 56 now. I can send it to you. And pay what you want to fix it. I think it would make a great video. Sound city amp have a huge following. Please let me know what you think. Thanks Curtis. Looking forward to your response.
Greetings, Curtis, and thanks for your nice comments. Rusty and I have retired from doing outside amp repairs, but I'll bet that if you watch some videos and do some Internet research, you could fix it yourself. Best of luck :)
Open coils are always bad news. Good thing you could solder it back together. My analog meter needs work, a couple impedance scales suddenly stopped working. The needle doesn't react to any impedance, it just falls down into the negatives and stays there. Strangely so far I have found no open resistors or anything.
+MisterTalkingMachine If I can find the loose ends, I can generally repair the winding....as long as my eyes can still focus :)
That's a cool repair...you rock....
Thanks, McC :)
Hi Uncle Doug,
great video, what do we learn?
Never give up searching for tiny wires, others would call it luck, I call it the Uncle Doug master repair skill (UDMRS).
+ThoMe Thanks, TM. How about this for a mantra: Perseverance provides a pleasant and proper payoff. Moral: Never give up on a part or a repair. Anything that can be broken can also be fixed.....as long as there are dog cookies for Rusty :)
Had a motorboating problem recently on a Vox Lil'Night Train (NT2H model). Also thought it would be the OT, as the fault occurred after running it on an unsupported impedance cab for about an hour (I had reports it could take it without issues or overheating, apparently true).
However, the fault turned out to be in the power tube, which apparently succumbed before the OT. :-)
Replaced that and the amp was as good as new.
Also, as the tube structure in this low wattage amp is 12AX7/12AX7/12AU7 (Pre/PI/PT), I could swap the pre and PI tubes for that faulty 12AU7 from the power section to see what gives.
It looks like, in the pre and PI positions, the tube still works just fine, also no tone issues whatsoever (except for a higher breakup point and more headroom if used in the pre section, obviously). It only motorboats when used as a power tube. I'll keep it around as spare and label it "don't use as a PT". ;-)
Thanks for sharing this experience with us, Valentin. It's interesting that some tubes will give problems in one location within the circuit but not in others.
Well, of course, apart from the broken winding! It took me back to the sixties, when we used to use radios as guitar amps, connecting up to the cap of the first valve (detector?).
A Simpson 260 I have one that’s 40 years old still works fine
They are gems, Harry. I still find them from time to time in pawn shops, where they are completely unappreciated......until I show up :)
Greatest meter ever.
My IQ has increased since I've started watching your videos!
Wow, what a testimonial. Thanks, Cody !!
Mine too! Up to 11!
Thanks for another good video, really like the way u explain things
Keep the videos comming😊😊😊
Great video, I would have probably recapped the electrolytic's because I have seen an electrolytic read good, but arc over at high voltage, but that was the days before ESR meters. An ESR meter might have caught that. Not to be picky but isn't the B+ the secondary of the power transformer?
+Mark Lange Thanks, Mark, and I completely understand your preference to replace the caps. To me, because of the derivation of the term "B+", it refers specifically to the rectified, filtered, DC output of the power supply.....i.e. as if a battery were supplying it.
Very nice explanations like ever.Thank you !!!
You're welcome, Nik :)
In these shoes I would apply, power off, a small AC voltage to the speaker terminals & measure the AC figure on each output plate to be sure the turns figure is still within a small margin of identical.
Thanks for your helpful tip, Greg.
I picked up a Simpson 260 just like that at a flea market 2 weeks ago. I had to replace a corroded battery terminal and it’s ready for another 60 years of service. 😁
Mine was the same, Bill. A leaky battery had made a mess of the battery compartment, but after an arduous cleanup, it worked perfectly.
Ah! Two videos in as many days...NICE! Now to fix Rusty's show boating... ;-)
+GmanMusicProductions Thanks, Gman. I don't anything can be done to fix Rusty' and his "work ethic".