well done team - regrettably this sort of pain is inevitable. Julian maintains a pretty decent approach to what is a pain in the butt. ( of course you guys dodging rain showers in between over the weeks. On the upside - all the good work done inside the yacht now is protected from water ingress (from the bulwarks at least)
Thank you 🙏🏻 It’s been a horrendous job - and believe it or not, it’s still not quite over yet. The good news is we’re now at the pointy end of the whole saga and yes, we’ve finally fixed the main source of leaks. Almost time to throw a party!!! 🥳
Wow, impressive job. Huge. You did a great job of fixing it. They're good boats the Peterson 44, and it will be a much better boat now! Good effort doing it in the water too. My only hesitation though would be how to keep bits of silicone and paint out of the water.
Thank you 🙏🏻 Silicone and paint aren’t the problem. It’s pretty easy to keep tools/mess etc. inboard, but you do need to control the dust any time you’re using power tools, which means using a vacuum system. Thankfully most good sanders attach straight to a vacuum cleaner these days, and to be honest most of this part of the job had to be done manually (I.e. with basic hand tools like hammer & chisel, which make very minimal dust), because the join was simply too narrow and deep to fit a power tool in!
Well done, julian. Most fibreglass boats of that age with high bulwarks would have the same problems. Your get it done attitube serves you well, would be interested to know how much apoxy resin you used. Top job.
Thank you 🙏🏻 The short answer on the epoxy is a lot!!! We’re estimating somewhere around 40 litres of the West System 105 and the corresponding amount of the 403 microfibre blend. It wasn’t cheap.
Congrats on such a laborious task and great explanations of the repair process. My yacht has wood rot on the deck from failure of through deck screws. Your suggestion of epoxy for all screw holes is right on. One thought about your water ingress issue - does your deck have a wood core and has water got into that through the bulwark problem? Great vid thanks.
Hi, and thank you 🙏🏻 Yes, our deck has a plywood core and yes, there are places where water has made its way through, but amazingly we haven’t found any rot like in the bulwarks. The next step of this whole process is removing, checking and reinstalling all the surrounding deck fittings (stanchion bases etc), which we’ll share the learnings from in our next video.
I think I would have used some Coosa board in the areas where hardware was to be refitted. Have you had any isses with rudder bearing coming lose on the KP44?
You certainly could use a rigid material if you wanted to but with the half-inch thickness of the hull, plus the thickness of the fibreglass deck, plus the epoxy (which, with the addition of the fibre is structural), we were happy that this was more than adequate. We’re also confident there’s no air voids, which you might get using rigid pieces of board. No we haven’t had any rudder bearing issues but we did replace a worn bush in the skeg about 10 years ago. There’s been no wear on it since.
I don't believe you showed it but when you put the cap rail down did you put sealant down first and then what or how did you seal the screws going through the Cap Rail?
We’re going to count them when we put the teak back on! It’s been raining here a lot lately and it’s sooooo good to finally have no water below deck 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Well done. Like most boat jobs they go much deeper than they first appear. That deck / hull joint is better than new.
Thank you 🙏🏻 It’s been a real labour of love as they say, but one we know will be worth it in the end
well done team - regrettably this sort of pain is inevitable. Julian maintains a pretty decent approach to what is a pain in the butt. ( of course you guys dodging rain showers in between over the weeks. On the upside - all the good work done inside the yacht now is protected from water ingress (from the bulwarks at least)
Thank you 🙏🏻 It’s been a horrendous job - and believe it or not, it’s still not quite over yet. The good news is we’re now at the pointy end of the whole saga and yes, we’ve finally fixed the main source of leaks. Almost time to throw a party!!! 🥳
Wow, impressive job. Huge. You did a great job of fixing it. They're good boats the Peterson 44, and it will be a much better boat now!
Good effort doing it in the water too. My only hesitation though would be how to keep bits of silicone and paint out of the water.
Thank you 🙏🏻 Silicone and paint aren’t the problem. It’s pretty easy to keep tools/mess etc. inboard, but you do need to control the dust any time you’re using power tools, which means using a vacuum system. Thankfully most good sanders attach straight to a vacuum cleaner these days, and to be honest most of this part of the job had to be done manually (I.e. with basic hand tools like hammer & chisel, which make very minimal dust), because the join was simply too narrow and deep to fit a power tool in!
Great job. It must be satisfying to have that in your rear view mirror!
Thank you 🙏🏻 The whole saga isn’t quite over yet but when it is, it will be!!
Well done, julian. Most fibreglass boats of that age with high bulwarks would have the same problems. Your get it done attitube serves you well, would be interested to know how much apoxy resin you used. Top job.
Thank you 🙏🏻 The short answer on the epoxy is a lot!!! We’re estimating somewhere around 40 litres of the West System 105 and the corresponding amount of the 403 microfibre blend. It wasn’t cheap.
Congrats on such a laborious task and great explanations of the repair process. My yacht has wood rot on the deck from failure of through deck screws. Your suggestion of epoxy for all screw holes is right on.
One thought about your water ingress issue - does your deck have a wood core and has water got into that through the bulwark problem?
Great vid thanks.
Hi, and thank you 🙏🏻 Yes, our deck has a plywood core and yes, there are places where water has made its way through, but amazingly we haven’t found any rot like in the bulwarks. The next step of this whole process is removing, checking and reinstalling all the surrounding deck fittings (stanchion bases etc), which we’ll share the learnings from in our next video.
I think I would have used some Coosa board in the areas where hardware was to be refitted.
Have you had any isses with rudder bearing coming lose on the KP44?
You certainly could use a rigid material if you wanted to but with the half-inch thickness of the hull, plus the thickness of the fibreglass deck, plus the epoxy (which, with the addition of the fibre is structural), we were happy that this was more than adequate. We’re also confident there’s no air voids, which you might get using rigid pieces of board.
No we haven’t had any rudder bearing issues but we did replace a worn bush in the skeg about 10 years ago. There’s been no wear on it since.
I don't believe you showed it but when you put the cap rail down did you put sealant down first and then what or how did you seal the screws going through the Cap Rail?
This video is just about fixing the hull-to-deck join. We’re still working on the teak rail so stay tuned!
Hell thats a lot of holes for a capping , Can't beat a dry bunk
We’re going to count them when we put the teak back on! It’s been raining here a lot lately and it’s sooooo good to finally have no water below deck 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻