I unplugged the washer for 10 min, then plugged it back in. Then I pushed in the start button until the sensing light went out. After waiting a minute or two, I restarted the washer, and PRAISE GOD, it started working!!!!
Okay, this is one of those new automatic sensing type of washing machines. What you need to do is turn the knob left, right, right, right, left, right. This will put the machine into diagnostics mode. Then what you want to do is turn the knob to the right until only the rinse light is on, and press start. This will calibrate the machine, and it takes anywhere between 30 seconds to 5 minutes. Once you hear the lid unlock, go ahead and run a test cycle. This successfully calibrates the machine. You should calibrate your machine often, whether it be anytime you replace a part or whenever it moves, whenever it goes out of balance. And the more you know about your washing machine, the longer it will last.
Before you do anything, make sure both hot and cold supply lines are working. I went to return my new washer- stuck on sensor, and realized my cold supply line had to be replaced.
Oh my goodness!!!!!!! I have been trying to run the recalibration for the last 3 and some hours. I have been re watching and looking up what is going on and how do I fix this??? Read your comment and turned to hubby and asked ‘you did turn on the water right ?” He gave that look of ooooommmmmyyyyyy goodness I’m so sorry. I then said you know I know have the golden ticket right 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. But really thank you so much and a big 🤦♂️🤦♂️
My girlfriend has the same washer and same symptoms I ran the diagnostic and sensing remained lit. The washer worked when set on hot, but not cold,and realized the cold water line (at the washer) had somehow been shut off. Opening the cold water line fixed the issue in our case.
Just moved into this apartment. The laundry units were left behind. This is the same washer. After reading multiple suggestions to check that the water was on, I did. For whatever reason it was not on. I just cut on both and it's doing it's thing. Still filling up but it looks like it's going to work. I'll be back to let you know if it doesn't. So if you don't hear from me, check that the water is actually on lol.
Well guy's it could be the actuator, rotary sensor or water valve or a loose wire under the washer that has broken we are a repair company and have found all 4 things .
Make certain to turn on both the hot and the cold water, even if you're using the COLD temperature setting only. The machine expects & uses the hot water anyway. Our machine would stop after the SENSING part of the cycle and look like it was stuck on the WASH part without doing anything. Turning on the hot water made it run normally.
If our governments wanted to do anything about global climate change, pollution etc. they would require manufacturers to make products durable. I have a fridge made 60 years ago that is still plunking away keeping my drinks cold.
OMG Donnie. that worked. my washer sensor light was on and water was pouring in however it would not wash. I unplugged for about 5 minutes, plugged back in, lifted the lid up and and down 6 times and push start, it immediately went into the wash cycle. thanks a bunch.
OMG! My husband wanted to go buy a new washer, I said lets try to fix it ourselves. I can't believe this worked. Well, honey, for once I was right!!! THANKS for saving me $$$!
We had a new gas dryer we got the one with regular push buttons without the fancy electronics. Our whirlpools washer was installed in 1986 and still runs beautifully but my sister had been to 3 or 4 washing machines and her last one was a Samsung which her husband dragged into the sidewalk and marked ‘“FREE”. I am not a fan if fancy electronics on machines as basic as a washer or dryer
@@kurdtpatton5039 Absolutely, the Whirlpool direct drive generation is iconic. I’ve owned 3 different models and I’ve loved every one of them no BS no sensors powerful agitation PLUS CHEAPER! I don’t get why people buy new washers they do absolutely zero research first it’s sad!! HE was the biggest appliance corruption I’ve ever seen happen in the industry.
It sounds like you need a washer door lid latch lock switch. Sometimes the magnet gets jammed in there so you can take another magnet and try to put it under where the lid lock and try to unlock the magnets if that doesn't work you'll need a new one so your machine will lock and began washing
Hopefully this helps but we’ve been having this same issue. It just dawned on me to try smaller loads and it seems to be working fine now. I think there was too much weight inside the washer for it to pass the “sensing” phase.
Just throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
Thanks Donnie my Kenmore washer sensor is on wash but want start washing then it clicked unlocked. I tried your method and it worked like a charm thanks a million.👏👏👏✌🙌
Don’t buy a new washer people. Please read. The classic models, with knobs and absolutely ZERO electronics are the way to go, fully mechanical, they wash, rinse and spin no BS every time. Some of the best models are the Whirlpool made Direct Drives, Speed Queens, and Maytags. And don’t think you can’t get one with a ton of options, the high end Whirlpool made direct drive washers offer tons and tons of cycles and options. There’s no excuse to buy a new washer when used classics are cheap and work the best HE was the biggest corruption of the appliance industry I’ve ever seen. You don’t get aggressive turnover with new washers, the only one you’ll find brand new that’s got classic powerful agitation and no BS is the Speed Queen TC5.
Cycle shifter. Just changed mine. Same noise. If you clear the fault light it will do it again. Theres a great video to help you on UA-cam. Its easy to change. .I think that's your problem.
The motor is told to sample a rotation briefly before filling with water. The control is not detecting basket rotation, that information is supplied by a photo sensor, which is a part of the mode shifter, located on the side of the gearcase. It shoots a light beam through slots on a disc that is part of the drive system of the inner basket. If or when this sensor fails, which is one of the most problematic parts on this machine, the control will not realize "motor rotation" and stop operation of the machine. Also will store error code, which is not a definitive diagnosis, as the motor is typically not at fault, but the sensor, which is reporting back to the control , is the actual culprit. This photo sensor is also used in tachometer test, to see if it is working or not. Also this motor operates with a 45uf or 50uf 250vac capacitor that can also fail, although I haven't seen many of those go bad. Most of these parts are priced at 50 to 80 dollars, so if you can repair yourself, not so bad. Life expectancy on the VMW, which is the Vertical Modular Washer, is 7 to 12 years before main bearing, IE Bushing, system fails due to leaking top seal on outer tub. Of course some of these machines don't last as long, adding to the frustration many owners have with them. This description is for the belt driven VMW washer only, other Whirlpool washers use a direct drive system, where the stator of the motor is mounted to the bottom of the tub, no gearcase, no mode shifter, no belt, just 3 phase motor, controlled by the main control to operate this motor in very slow or very fast operation, and change direction as well. This is a brief description on the method of operation, and many different things can cause these machines to stop working properly, so remember to use the error codes as a starting point to steer you in the right direction, to find the actual cause of the problem. Hope this helps.
If you machine flows water while set to hot water it is your water inlet screen clogged. Pull it out and clean it. Use needle nose pliers and it pulls out like a Cork. Screw all this diagnostic testing. Something so simple took me all day to troubleshoot. Hit like if it worked. I had mine stuck in sensing mode. Try this if just hot works.
throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
Best way to repair that washer is....First Unplug the Unit. Turn off the Water..With a pair of Channel lock pliers unfasten the Water inlets... remove drain hose....Pull out the unit and with a Two wheeler or other such Tool Shove it outside........Now replace Washing machine with other Model.
Change wash temperature from hot to warm or cool and run it again. Sometimes the water inlet get clogged due to salt , it depends . If not working try to clean water inlet hoses and check again .
Ok , F7E6 means the control board is sensing an open line on one of the motors 3 electrical phases, with the machine unplugged also be mindful the motors run capacitor can store a charge Carefully inspect the wiring harness between the Control board and the motor for any broken connections , if found , repair,, if no fault found ,, use an ohm meter to test the motors windings resistance it is listed in the tech sheet housed in the washer cabinet if you find one of the motors windings "open" replace the motor.
EVERYONEEE ‘ mines literally did the same thing as yours clicked . but i unpluggged it , turned it off waited a sec changed all the settings & it worked give it a sec to start up
Maytag Bravos model MVWX655DW1 I had a sensing problem I thought but just got it checked tonight and my problem was my wash temperature dial. Not the dial itself but the setting. The tech told me that the newer model washer should be hooked up with both hot and cold and hot water hoses in the back of the washer if you want it to run on cold water setting. It still uses a bit of hot water not much just enough to regulate the water temperature. If it's too cold and you don't have the hot water hose hooked up it still senses for hot water and that's why it looks like it's stuck on sensing. No parts needed except the steal hose for the hot water. If you want to run strictly cold water set your temperature dial to tap water and it will work. Hope this helps. My Maytag is 7yrs old.
Make sure your water lines are turned all the way on. Make sure your drain hose elevates at least thirty inches above the discharge hole. Make sure your washer is level.
Ok first things first, I’d check under the wash plate for any change that may be stuck and if you find none proceed to check the drain and make sure nothing is blocking the impeller. Unless you can confirm it does drain. If nothing is blocking the impeller on the drain pump, you will want to look at the shift actuator. It’s got a shift actuator at the bottom in between the drain pump and connected to the splutch right next to the motor. This shift actuator is plastic and does stick. Not an expensive part and very easy to change for any handy fellas out there. But once you change this part check the manual for diagnostics and run a calibration mode so the machine can run with the new shift actuator. Then run a test mode, and then check error code through diagnostic mode to check for any issues, hopefully you have none. And Hopefully I have helped 😂🙏
All DirectDrive Whirlpools are not only bulletproof, but also easily serviceable, and that quality was the best reason for discontinue them... Same as always in industry, they discovered "innovation" and invented "infinite profits". In ten years, people repairing their home appliances are going to appreciate items that last 3 years, and will be happy for that...
WTW5000DW1 Washer Shift Actuator. This is what you need 45$ definitely going to score points with the wife. Make sure you don't have clothes in it after you replace and recalibrate or else it won't work.
Just got mine acted stupid from beginning but working great now this is what I done unplugged it plug it back up put in diagnostic mode and how you do that is turn it counterclockwise all the way around to normal then turn one click to the left three clicks to the right and then one more click to the left all the lights will start flashing if it does not do it again but faster once they start flashing turn the knob until you see only rinse lit up then push start it will run a cycle to calibrate sometimes it only takes a few minutes other times depending on the problem could take up to an hour I hope this helps if all of this does not work try looking on UA-cam on how to check the sensor it's real easy to do it only has a little plastic piece on the sensor that allows it to know what to do if it breaks or don't have good connection it will act stupid because it don't know what to do can't read the signals good luck all of you
Omg....!!! Never thought this would happen.. but the cold water valve was shutt off!! Only the hot water valve was open. After I turned on the cold water valve the machine went into wash mode right away.. before it was stuck in sensing mode for days
Exactly Just throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
I tried this and it did not work, BUT I took the water drain, cupped my hand and blew hard and felt some debris break lose and the washer immediately resumed with the spin cycle. WORKED for me.. May help someone in the future!
Ok, ill help you. There's a manual inside the machine top left. It is show you the error code. On your knob go left once and then right and then right again and right again left and then right again all the lights to turn on. Then turn it right right and right until the third green light turns on when that flashes on push start and it will calibrate
Could be a clogged pressure switch line. If not the switch is on the board so you’d replace the board. Also check the belt. Could be stripped. Put in diagnostics mode. Run agitate and spin. Pretty much of it doesn’t do it then. You might have a bad motor.
Okay mine was just doing the same thing. I held the button then real quick and it stopped flashing but it was on. Then I tapped it again and the sensing light went out. Then I held it in for the 3 seconds and all of a sudden the Water started flowing in.
William Kelly lmao seriously?? 😂 Here I am looking up troubleshooting articles, preparing for a frustrating battle... and I just forgot to turn the damn water back on. I was just trying to run a quick test... This is up there with “is it plugged in?”
I reset the motor, recalibrated it, checked the water lines, the whole nine yards and it still wouldn't get past sensing. Read your comment and realized in my haste I forgot to turn the hot water LMAO. Good shot
Our whirlpool's lidlock was jammed shut by the whirlpool itself, then during the preliminary "sensing" or weighing cyclecame a mechanical burning smell. It's as if it just committed suicide. Had to take the whole top off to get my clothes out. Trying to fix it but looks like the washer might need to be replaced entirely based off what little I can find online. This whirlpool cabrio is fairly new, too! Guess it won't be a whirlpool that I buy next time.
Just throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
I have a whirlpool top-loading washer, model W10338679C I put clothes in and close lid it fills and drains then the fill light just flashes and will not do anything
We lost power in our electrical panel. Afterwards the washer blinks the sensing light, puts a shot of water in then nothing. Then starts it all over again. Have tried all of the unplug, closing door 6 times tricks and still not working. Lock light is also not coming on.
I'm sorry have the same washer. Different issue. You should take the washer to the top of the highest peak and just let it smash. Have a camera set up on the bottom so you can send it the manufacturer. Maytag whirlpool. Whatever piece of shit with the same lights 🚥
Pull the tech sheet for the unit (inside the console or taped to the inner cabinet) and follow instructions for testing the motor fault. Most likely a bad CCU
Okay guys, the problem that I personally had was that the door wasnt locking. Theres a button inside that gets press when the lid closes, i just held it down untill it started the wash..
Help you?? I clicked on this video hoping that you could help ME!! I'm having the same issue.
Factsss lmao
Lol.....same here 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@traidmark23 buy a actuator
@@traidmark23 the actuator need to be replaced
My bad I’m just seeing this. I know it’s fixed or you have anew one by now
I thought you had the answer 😂😂
Like wtf!! 😂
I unplugged the washer for 10 min, then plugged it back in. Then I pushed in the start button until the sensing light went out. After waiting a minute or two, I restarted the washer, and PRAISE GOD, it started working!!!!
Ok will try that
Praise God, I'm going to try this.
This worked
Okay, this is one of those new automatic sensing type of washing machines. What you need to do is turn the knob left, right, right, right, left, right. This will put the machine into diagnostics mode. Then what you want to do is turn the knob to the right until only the rinse light is on, and press start. This will calibrate the machine, and it takes anywhere between 30 seconds to 5 minutes. Once you hear the lid unlock, go ahead and run a test cycle. This successfully calibrates the machine. You should calibrate your machine often, whether it be anytime you replace a part or whenever it moves, whenever it goes out of balance. And the more you know about your washing machine, the longer it will last.
Im having the same problem. I was on tik tok and guy told me where the manual was and you exactly right about the L,R,R,R,L,R.
😵💫 😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫🤬🤬🤬🤬🥵🥵🥵🥵🥵🥵😤😤😤😤😤😤
This worked!! Thank you so much for posting this !!! You saved my Sunday morning ❤️
Worked for me thanks, i was going crazy trying to get my machine to fill
Mine is stuck on wash and the only sound I hear is clicking from the door trying to lock….idk what to do but I need help! It won’t lock either!
I have this exact one and totally regret the purchase
Before you do anything, make sure both hot and cold supply lines are working. I went to return my new washer- stuck on sensor, and realized my cold supply line had to be replaced.
Oh my goodness!!!!!!! I have been trying to run the recalibration for the last 3 and some hours. I have been re watching and looking up what is going on and how do I fix this??? Read your comment and turned to hubby and asked ‘you did turn on the water right ?” He gave that look of ooooommmmmyyyyyy goodness I’m so sorry. I then said you know I know have the golden ticket right 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. But really thank you so much and a big 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Thanks ❤ that was the issue. The water wasn't on
I kept watching expecting to get a sick beat from the washing machine- now it’s recommended for everyone!
It ain’t got no gas in it😂😂
The Old Belt Drive Washer from the 70's & 80's Best Unit Ever...
Nahhh direct drive whirlpools. Allll dayyyy longggg
@@kraighale8181 Same…loved the belt driven Maytags and SQ tho
Direct drive is the god father i have one 24 yrs and still kicking heavy
My girlfriend has the same washer and same symptoms I ran the diagnostic and sensing remained lit. The washer worked when set on hot, but not cold,and realized the cold water line (at the washer) had somehow been shut off. Opening the cold water line fixed the issue in our case.
Just moved into this apartment. The laundry units were left behind. This is the same washer. After reading multiple suggestions to check that the water was on, I did. For whatever reason it was not on. I just cut on both and it's doing it's thing. Still filling up but it looks like it's going to work. I'll be back to let you know if it doesn't. So if you don't hear from me, check that the water is actually on lol.
Well guy's it could be the actuator, rotary sensor or water valve or a loose wire under the washer that has broken we are a repair company and have found all 4 things .
Where are tall located
Make certain to turn on both the hot and the cold water, even if you're using the COLD temperature setting only. The machine expects & uses the hot water anyway. Our machine would stop after the SENSING part of the cycle and look like it was stuck on the WASH part without doing anything. Turning on the hot water made it run normally.
Thank youuuuu life saver !
Thanks
If our governments wanted to do anything about global climate change, pollution etc. they would require manufacturers to make products durable. I have a fridge made 60 years ago that is still plunking away keeping my drinks cold.
So true.
They just.
Care.
About.
Dollars.
Repairs equal money.
F*ck the consumer.
unplug the washer for a minute. Then lift and close the lid 6 times in 15 seconds. It'll reset the logic.
OMG Donnie. that worked. my washer sensor light was on and water was pouring in however it would not wash. I unplugged for about 5 minutes, plugged back in, lifted the lid up and and down 6 times and push start, it immediately went into the wash cycle. thanks a bunch.
Really hope this works... So I unplug wait 5 mins then open my washer 6 times then it will work?
Donnie Lyons you’re awesome man!
This worked! So simple. Whew! Thanks.
Amazing Donnie !!!
It's technical sense, not strength.
IT worked...it reset itself.
I'm from the bahamas check your fill valve , or control board but I'm strongly suggesting you check your control board
I have one of these. The water doesn't fill
There is only enough water to wash a few shirts at most
OMG! My husband wanted to go buy a new washer, I said lets try to fix it ourselves. I can't believe this worked. Well, honey, for once I was right!!! THANKS for saving me $$$!
What did you do?
Let's trade... spouses. LOL!!
We had a new gas dryer we got the one with regular push buttons without the fancy electronics. Our whirlpools washer was installed in 1986 and still runs beautifully but my sister had been to 3 or 4 washing machines and her last one was a Samsung which her husband dragged into the sidewalk and marked ‘“FREE”. I am not a fan if fancy electronics on machines as basic as a washer or dryer
I purposely bought an older whirlpool because they are built so well.
@@kurdtpatton5039 Absolutely, the Whirlpool direct drive generation is iconic. I’ve owned 3 different models and I’ve loved every one of them no BS no sensors powerful agitation PLUS CHEAPER! I don’t get why people buy new washers they do absolutely zero research first it’s sad!! HE was the biggest appliance corruption I’ve ever seen happen in the industry.
Never buy new the classics are the best all mechanical and no BS sensors or lid locks.
It sounds like you need a washer door lid latch lock switch. Sometimes the magnet gets jammed in there so you can take another magnet and try to put it under where the lid lock and try to unlock the magnets if that doesn't work you'll need a new one so your machine will lock and began washing
Hopefully this helps but we’ve been having this same issue. It just dawned on me to try smaller loads and it seems to be working fine now. I think there was too much weight inside the washer for it to pass the “sensing” phase.
Just throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
I just did this, trying a smaller load and it’s working now but that completely sucks
Scroll down to see the comments so glad I did! Thanks Donnie it actually worked.
Thanks Donnie my Kenmore washer sensor is on wash but want start washing then it clicked unlocked. I tried your method and it worked like a charm thanks a million.👏👏👏✌🙌
Ugh just got mines today and it's doing same nonsense
Leo
Don’t buy a new washer people. Please read. The classic models, with knobs and absolutely ZERO electronics are the way to go, fully mechanical, they wash, rinse and spin no BS every time. Some of the best models are the Whirlpool made Direct Drives, Speed Queens, and Maytags. And don’t think you can’t get one with a ton of options, the high end Whirlpool made direct drive washers offer tons and tons of cycles and options. There’s no excuse to buy a new washer when used classics are cheap and work the best HE was the biggest corruption of the appliance industry I’ve ever seen. You don’t get aggressive turnover with new washers, the only one you’ll find brand new that’s got classic powerful agitation and no BS is the Speed Queen TC5.
You have to recalibrate it- look for whirpool calibrate reset- it’s easy- works every time.
Definitely need to know the outcome
Problem for me is that the water was shut off! Turning it back on fixed it, haha.
Glad I stumbled upon ur comment. After spending almost a whole day trying to figure out why it wasn’t working, that was my issue
THANK YOU John! This was my issue too 💞 I so much appreciate that you commented this a year ago! You saved my night. :)
Cycle shifter. Just changed mine. Same noise. If you clear the fault light it will do it again. Theres a great video to help you on UA-cam. Its easy to change. .I think that's your problem.
Thanks I just saved my mom lol all the way from Trinidad.... it was the door 🤦♂️
We are all messed up with this kind of machine😂
The motor is told to sample a rotation briefly before filling with water. The control is not detecting basket rotation, that information is supplied by a photo sensor, which is a part of the mode shifter, located on the side of the gearcase. It shoots a light beam through slots on a disc that is part of the drive system of the inner basket. If or when this sensor fails, which is one of the most problematic parts on this machine, the control will not realize "motor rotation" and stop operation of the machine. Also will store error code, which is not a definitive diagnosis, as the motor is typically not at fault, but the sensor, which is reporting back to the control , is the actual culprit. This photo sensor is also used in tachometer test, to see if it is working or not. Also this motor operates with a 45uf or 50uf 250vac capacitor that can also fail, although I haven't seen many of those go bad.
Most of these parts are priced at 50 to 80 dollars, so if you can repair yourself, not so bad. Life expectancy on the VMW, which is the Vertical Modular Washer, is 7 to 12 years before main bearing, IE Bushing, system fails due to leaking top seal on outer tub. Of course some of these machines don't last as long, adding to the frustration many owners have with them.
This description is for the belt driven VMW washer only, other Whirlpool washers use a direct drive system, where the stator of the motor is mounted to the bottom of the tub, no gearcase, no mode shifter, no belt, just 3 phase motor, controlled by the main control to operate this motor in very slow or very fast operation, and change direction as well.
This is a brief description on the method of operation, and many different things can cause these machines to stop working properly, so remember to use the error codes as a starting point to steer you in the right direction, to find the actual cause of the problem. Hope this helps.
Oh yeah, the rotation light reads on manual and automatic mode but normal mode it will not do a thing, now what.
I thought you had the answer 😭😭😭😭
Open and close the lid 6 times in 15 seconds and it should clear the stuck in sensing. Then hit start
If you machine flows water while set to hot water it is your water inlet screen clogged. Pull it out and clean it. Use needle nose pliers and it pulls out like a Cork. Screw all this diagnostic testing. Something so simple took me all day to troubleshoot. Hit like if it worked. I had mine stuck in sensing mode. Try this if just hot works.
I thought you could help me. Lol. Mine just started this today. 😢
I had the same problem, replaced shifter actuator,fixed the problem.
I have the exact same washer
Omg!!!!!! This works!!!! Thank you so much🥰🥰🥰🥰
What ?
throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
Same here. I flipped mine I hear coins. Trying to get the wash plate off to see if I can get to the coins
Pull the plate off use tweezers to get coins out of the tubb and pull lower pump hose off to drain 2 screws and clean pump put
Try clear out the water pump. And reset the washer after. It works for me
Best way to repair that washer is....First Unplug the Unit. Turn off the Water..With a pair of Channel lock pliers unfasten the Water inlets... remove drain hose....Pull out the unit and with a Two wheeler or other such Tool Shove it outside........Now replace Washing machine with other Model.
Refunds should be issued for this Piece of S+*t!
😂😂😂😂
Lmao naw Fr tho
I have the same issue SO TRIED OF THIS MACHINE
SAME! Hate the new stuff
did you have any luck ? same washer , same problem .
Me too! I changed from hot to cold and it started, but I don’t need to wash dark clothes in hot water! 😩
Change wash temperature from hot to warm or cool and run it again. Sometimes the water inlet get clogged due to salt , it depends . If not working try to clean water inlet hoses and check again .
Ok , F7E6 means the control board is sensing an open line on one of the motors 3 electrical phases, with the machine unplugged also be mindful the motors run capacitor can store a charge Carefully inspect the wiring harness between the Control board and the motor for any broken connections , if found , repair,, if no fault found ,, use an ohm meter to test the motors windings resistance it is listed in the tech sheet housed in the washer cabinet if you find one of the motors windings "open" replace the motor.
EVERYONEEE ‘
mines literally did the same thing as yours clicked . but i unpluggged it , turned it off waited a sec changed all the settings & it worked give it a sec to start up
Maytag Bravos model MVWX655DW1
I had a sensing problem I thought but just got it checked tonight and my problem was my wash temperature dial. Not the dial itself but the setting. The tech told me that the newer model washer should be hooked up with both hot and cold and hot water hoses in the back of the washer if you want it to run on cold water setting. It still uses a bit of hot water not much just enough to regulate the water temperature. If it's too cold and you don't have the hot water hose hooked up it still senses for hot water and that's why it looks like it's stuck on sensing. No parts needed except the steal hose for the hot water. If you want to run strictly cold water set your temperature dial to tap water and it will work. Hope this helps. My Maytag is 7yrs old.
Make sure your water lines are turned all the way on. Make sure your drain hose elevates at least thirty inches above the discharge hole. Make sure your washer is level.
Ok first things first, I’d check under the wash plate for any change that may be stuck and if you find none proceed to check the drain and make sure nothing is blocking the impeller. Unless you can confirm it does drain.
If nothing is blocking the impeller on the drain pump, you will want to look at the shift actuator.
It’s got a shift actuator at the bottom in between the drain pump and connected to the splutch right next to the motor.
This shift actuator is plastic and does stick. Not an expensive part and very easy to change for any handy fellas out there.
But once you change this part check the manual for diagnostics and run a calibration mode so the machine can run with the new shift actuator. Then run a test mode, and then check error code through diagnostic mode to check for any issues, hopefully you have none.
And Hopefully I have helped 😂🙏
Same problem here too.
All DirectDrive Whirlpools are not only bulletproof, but also easily serviceable, and that quality was the best reason for discontinue them... Same as always in industry, they discovered "innovation" and invented "infinite profits". In ten years, people repairing their home appliances are going to appreciate items that last 3 years, and will be happy for that...
WTW5000DW1 Washer Shift Actuator. This is what you need 45$ definitely going to score points with the wife. Make sure you don't have clothes in it after you replace and recalibrate or else it won't work.
Takes longer than usual because it's only sensing water so put it on quick wash and let it run through all of its functions.
Follow the instructions in the service guide (on the inside cabinet). Basically, test the motor winding resistances.
I taught you know how to fix it am having a problem with mine and needs help
You have a striped gear under the agitator remove retainer clip and 6 screws and replace , its called the hub
Just got mine acted stupid from beginning but working great now this is what I done unplugged it plug it back up put in diagnostic mode and how you do that is turn it counterclockwise all the way around to normal then turn one click to the left three clicks to the right and then one more click to the left all the lights will start flashing if it does not do it again but faster once they start flashing turn the knob until you see only rinse lit up then push start it will run a cycle to calibrate sometimes it only takes a few minutes other times depending on the problem could take up to an hour I hope this helps if all of this does not work try looking on UA-cam on how to check the sensor it's real easy to do it only has a little plastic piece on the sensor that allows it to know what to do if it breaks or don't have good connection it will act stupid because it don't know what to do can't read the signals good luck all of you
Thanks that totally works
Omg....!!! Never thought this would happen.. but the cold water valve was shutt off!! Only the hot water valve was open. After I turned on the cold water valve the machine went into wash mode right away.. before it was stuck in sensing mode for days
My hot was off.. I replaced all these parts for nothing
Having the same issue.
Repair man has been out six times. Replaced control board twice. Purchased in May 2019 new.
Same! I purchased mine new May 2019 and it worked fine up until about 2 or 3 months ago. Repair guy came out and replaced control board.
Thank You!
I’m having the same problem… Anyone find a fix yet?
Same problem. Junk washer. I’ve gone through 2 of them in a year just doing normal loads once to twice a week.
Exactly Just throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
Hate the new washers!
I’m looking for helpful videos 🙄🙄
There is a manual in the cab, try recalibrate.
I have one doing the same thing. Did you find anything out?
This happened to me too!...
Then i remembered to turn water valves back on 😁
You are amazing! This was my problem!
Oh my gosh THANK YOU! lol
yes I worked on the washer and for got to turn the water back on
Changing the temperature worked for me. I switched it from cold to cool and it started right up
I cant seem to get the lock to stay on for it to start washing how can i fix it
I tried this and it did not work, BUT I took the water drain, cupped my hand and blew hard and felt some debris break lose and the washer immediately resumed with the spin cycle. WORKED for me.. May help someone in the future!
Mines doing the same..
Thankyou 👍👍👍🙏🙏
Does this work for front load washers also?
The issue is either the actuator or water inlet valve.
Have the same washer and the water doesn't fill😭
Have you checked the motherboard or comparator
Ok, ill help you. There's a manual inside the machine top left. It is show you the error code. On your knob go left once and then right and then right again and right again left and then right again all the lights to turn on. Then turn it right right and right until the third green light turns on when that flashes on push start and it will calibrate
Any and all appliance we've purchased for our home and my MOM BOS
Could be a clogged pressure switch line. If not the switch is on the board so you’d replace the board. Also check the belt. Could be stripped. Put in diagnostics mode. Run agitate and spin. Pretty much of it doesn’t do it then. You might have a bad motor.
Okay mine was just doing the same thing. I held the button then real quick and it stopped flashing but it was on. Then I tapped it again and the sensing light went out. Then I held it in for the 3 seconds and all of a sudden the Water started flowing in.
Sounds dumb but I was having this issue and it was because the water was turned off. Maybe the inlet has some gunk in it.
William Kelly lmao seriously?? 😂 Here I am looking up troubleshooting articles, preparing for a frustrating battle... and I just forgot to turn the damn water back on. I was just trying to run a quick test... This is up there with “is it plugged in?”
William Kelly thank you for asking the simple question...been perplexed for a while 😆
I reset the motor, recalibrated it, checked the water lines, the whole nine yards and it still wouldn't get past sensing. Read your comment and realized in my haste I forgot to turn the hot water LMAO. Good shot
Our whirlpool's lidlock was jammed shut by the whirlpool itself, then during the preliminary "sensing" or weighing cyclecame a mechanical burning smell. It's as if it just committed suicide. Had to take the whole top off to get my clothes out. Trying to fix it but looks like the washer might need to be replaced entirely based off what little I can find online. This whirlpool cabrio is fairly new, too! Guess it won't be a whirlpool that I buy next time.
Just throw it out and get a nice used Whirlpool direct drive from the late or early 2000s, cheaper, way more aggressive wash action no BS gets the job done reliably every time with a real agitator. These new washers are a violation to washing clothes correctly with these ridiculous wash plates and unnecessary sensors, it’s a horrible corruption that took place a decade ago to meet “energy regulations” 🙄
I have the same problem!
I have a whirlpool top-loading washer, model W10338679C I put clothes in and close lid it fills and drains then the fill light just flashes and will not do anything
That tells me it is not sensing right, either the control board or the optical or actuator output, or the input to it from the control board.
We lost power in our electrical panel. Afterwards the washer blinks the sensing light, puts a shot of water in then nothing. Then starts it all over again. Have tried all of the unplug, closing door 6 times tricks and still not working. Lock light is also not coming on.
I am having the same issue.
Did you find a fix
What was the issue? Shift actuator or water valve?
Ahhaa😊
I'm sorry have the same washer. Different issue. You should take the washer to the top of the highest peak and just let it smash. Have a camera set up on the bottom so you can send it the manufacturer. Maytag whirlpool. Whatever piece of shit with the same lights 🚥
You need to touch again the button 😂
Just buy a regular washer problem solved,all this extra digital stuff ,cost more money
I had the same deal, I found the problem on my drain line, that black plastic one was kinked
What does kinked mean?
Pull the tech sheet for the unit (inside the console or taped to the inner cabinet) and follow instructions for testing the motor fault. Most likely a bad CCU
Okk
Mine is now also. . but my red light give me three lil beeps along with it ....Being trying my ass off to get it fixed can't afford no repair mam m
Okay guys, the problem that I personally had was that the door wasnt locking. Theres a button inside that gets press when the lid closes, i just held it down untill it started the wash..
🚨😫🚨This washing machine sucks, clearly it's highly defective & needs to go straight to the recycling bin immediately, "I SEE 👀 THAT NOW"!!!!!!!!!!🤕😨🤔
Junk I hate those things
👀UGH❤
This is why I hate High-Efficiency machines.
If your motor is drawing too much current OR there is too much resistance, it will stop the wash. You may have a motor fault like it believes you do.
Damn, and this is a simple washer and still having issues