Thank you, Thank You and Thank You Mr Dubworx. I spent about an hour trying to assemble the CV Joint the wrong way LOL. Watching this video saved my sanity and I learnt the easy way from you and did it in seconds!!!
Muchas gracias por el vídeo. No entiendo nada de lo que dices perqué solo entiendo español y rumano, pero las imágenes hablan 😃. Gracias a Dios me has salvado. Que Dios te bendiga 🙏
Great video but one thing you don't mention and another comment does (and i suspect your did this) is to loosen the tensioning nut on the torsion bar. It's a big 28mm nut in behind the tank. Count the number of threads before undoing it so you can put it back after (mine was at 40 ish) as it effects the stance, ride etc. NB doesn't need to be all the way out maybe halfway. Without undoing this the hub won't swing out enough and getting the drive shaft in and out is a pain.
I've never touched the torsion bars, I find they're too much of a pain to deal with between access, resetting to the same position and if it unseats it can be a massive headache
My 2c to add, 'cos I do a lot of these. Buy the long spline socket - one about 12" is fine. Short ones are a pain for removing the bolts holding the inner shaft on. If you have unvented discs, use a vise grips to prevent the shaft rotating as you open the inner bolts - clamp it to the disc so it stops up against the caliper. When removing the old rubber boot, don't muck about trying to lever off the metal cap - cut through the side of it in multiple spots with a grinder, then bash it off with a chisel - the cuts release the pressure. I use an air chisel, but a normal one works too. Air is faster. Refitting the new inner boot is a pita - more of a struggle than you would expect to get the smaller rubber neck to pass over the shaft. Personally I grip it with 2 pointy nosed pliers & drag it down into position - however you do it, it's a ballache. When removing/rebolting the shaft back on, make sure you have released both the torsion bars & the drop-links/shocks. Otherwise it's close to impossible. Fully release the torsion bars - unhook the tensioners from the chassis after loosening the nuts - I use a double ended plumbers "socket" to wind off the nuts - it's about 8" long & is 27mm one end, 32mm the other. I put a 32mm socket onto my impact gun, bang the plumbers socket into that & it winds them off/on in seconds without the faff. To get the bolts back into the 'box/shaft I poke a tapered punch through the hole at 12 o'clock to line stuff up & then run in the bolt plus the half-moon at the 9'o clock position. I then turn the shaft & run all the bolts in at 9 o'clock position - that's the easiest way to do it. Don't fully tighten them so you can line the half-moons up - get all the bolts in then go around once more & tighten them. Easier. The outer shaft splines won't want to "pop" back into the hub - get them in a fraction, put in the hub bolt & use that to drag the shaft into the hub. I use a 3/4" impact gun, you might not, but having one certainly helps.
Thank you for your comment, some very good advice, some of which I don't agree with but mostly good advice, the only bits I don't agree with are: Removing the old boot is much faster with a flathead screwdriver and one tap under the end and it pops off, also no risk of damaging things with a grinder. Refitting I've never struggled if it's greased up properly (since done many more) certainly wouldn't risk damaging the boot by using any type of pliers to pull it down. Torsion bars can be a nightmare to refit (even more so working on the floor) and it's added unnecessary work, I've heard a few people say loosen them off but it's not always that simple, especially if they're seized. The spline end of the driveshaft should never struggle to go back in and I wouldn't recommend forcing it in with the bolt, even less using HGV tools like a 3/4" impact haha, it'll only be even more of a pain next time, clean both male and female splines and grease them up. Your point about longer splines is a very good one, I found out about those months later but they were about 18" long. Vice grips on the disc is a good suggestion or a bar through a couple of wheel bolts also works, both methods to be used with caution as not to cause damage to disc or bolts. Lastly starting the bolts before tightening is good advice, it's a long time since I watched the video and I don't think I mentioned it. Thank you again for your comment, some good advice and things I wouldn't think to mention as they seem obvious to the mechanically inclined but not so much to a novice.
@@DubworxMedia I work on these for customers - no boot ever "Pops" off. :-) An air hammer usually struggles to "pop" them off if they've sat there festering for years... also no shaft ever (almost ever) "slides" back into the hub, regardless of how clean - line it up, get it in a mil or 2, pull it in with the bolt. Every time. :-)
@jamesward5721 My mistake, I do plenty for customers too, I've just realised the video is "inner CV boot", with the metal attached to it, I was thinking of outer with just the clips, you're correct they don't pop off from the cv joint side. I've never had to pull a driveshaft spline end into place, maybe the last 10mm or so but never the majority of it 🤷🏼♂️, maybe I've been lucky so far, I've had a few seized in and they usually get replaced because the joint is knackered, I dare say if I had to put a seized one back in, it probably would need pulling in with the bolt, although I'd use a 1/2" impact to limit the risk of damaging the bolt and or threads.
@@DubworxMedia I meant innerz. :-) Outers are handy. There's no great harm pulling the shaft in with the bolt, as long as it's started by hand. Why struggle? :-) I can forgive VW anything today - been working on a Honda... by comparison, VW's are bastions of common sense. Honda are nuts - they just are. Despite their "reputation".
Hi. I looked without sound, but I see that there is no mention of the fact that the bevel on the rim of the basket is not the same on both sides, which many people do not notice and perhaps try to put the basket in upside down?
I'm not sure what you're referring to as the basket, possibly what I called the cage? If so, it is symmetrical iirc, may not be on all CV joints but this one was, thanks
@@DubworxMedia I fiddled for 2 days trying to rock it back and forth and inserting one ball after another. It was very hard inserting the 6th ball and the cage would end up stuck. My CV joint was nearly new and very stiff.. not at all like yours. What ended up successful was combining your method with a small hammer blow!
@@haraldpost I found you have to lift the cage slightly for it to drop in nicely but you've got to be swift otherwise the balls come out, alternatively you can sometimes get away with putting the cage in sideways and putting two balls opposite eachother then put the remaining balls in 1 at a time.
@@DubworxMedia I am telling you it would not drop in. I had a mechanic friend come over and he also struggled with it. In the end he placed the cage in, placed the balls in, and then sat the central joint on top and did on small whack with a hammer and in it fell!
Thank you, Thank You and Thank You Mr Dubworx. I spent about an hour trying to assemble the CV Joint the wrong way LOL. Watching this video saved my sanity and I learnt the easy way from you and did it in seconds!!!
Good to hear, glad I could help
This video got me back on the road! Your attention to detail is awesome. As others have commented already, very well narrated!
Thanks, glad to keep another T4 on the road
Muchas gracias por el vídeo. No entiendo nada de lo que dices perqué solo entiendo español y rumano, pero las imágenes hablan 😃. Gracias a Dios me has salvado. Que Dios te bendiga 🙏
Great little video. Well narrated. Thank you.
Great video but one thing you don't mention and another comment does (and i suspect your did this) is to loosen the tensioning nut on the torsion bar.
It's a big 28mm nut in behind the tank. Count the number of threads before undoing it so you can put it back after (mine was at 40 ish) as it effects the stance, ride etc. NB doesn't need to be all the way out maybe halfway.
Without undoing this the hub won't swing out enough and getting the drive shaft in and out is a pain.
I've never touched the torsion bars, I find they're too much of a pain to deal with between access, resetting to the same position and if it unseats it can be a massive headache
Amazing video, thanks from Argentina
This video saved my sanity today!! Thank you thank you!!!! Nearly just bought a new efing drive shaft 🤣
My 2c to add, 'cos I do a lot of these.
Buy the long spline socket - one about 12" is fine. Short ones are a pain for removing the bolts holding the inner shaft on.
If you have unvented discs, use a vise grips to prevent the shaft rotating as you open the inner bolts - clamp it to the disc so it stops up against the caliper.
When removing the old rubber boot, don't muck about trying to lever off the metal cap - cut through the side of it in multiple spots with a grinder, then bash it off with a chisel - the cuts release the pressure. I use an air chisel, but a normal one works too. Air is faster.
Refitting the new inner boot is a pita - more of a struggle than you would expect to get the smaller rubber neck to pass over the shaft. Personally I grip it with 2 pointy nosed pliers & drag it down into position - however you do it, it's a ballache.
When removing/rebolting the shaft back on, make sure you have released both the torsion bars & the drop-links/shocks. Otherwise it's close to impossible. Fully release the torsion bars - unhook the tensioners from the chassis after loosening the nuts - I use a double ended plumbers "socket" to wind off the nuts - it's about 8" long & is 27mm one end, 32mm the other. I put a 32mm socket onto my impact gun, bang the plumbers socket into that & it winds them off/on in seconds without the faff.
To get the bolts back into the 'box/shaft I poke a tapered punch through the hole at 12 o'clock to line stuff up & then run in the bolt plus the half-moon at the 9'o clock position. I then turn the shaft & run all the bolts in at 9 o'clock position - that's the easiest way to do it. Don't fully tighten them so you can line the half-moons up - get all the bolts in then go around once more & tighten them. Easier.
The outer shaft splines won't want to "pop" back into the hub - get them in a fraction, put in the hub bolt & use that to drag the shaft into the hub. I use a 3/4" impact gun, you might not, but having one certainly helps.
Thank you for your comment, some very good advice, some of which I don't agree with but mostly good advice, the only bits I don't agree with are:
Removing the old boot is much faster with a flathead screwdriver and one tap under the end and it pops off, also no risk of damaging things with a grinder.
Refitting I've never struggled if it's greased up properly (since done many more) certainly wouldn't risk damaging the boot by using any type of pliers to pull it down.
Torsion bars can be a nightmare to refit (even more so working on the floor) and it's added unnecessary work, I've heard a few people say loosen them off but it's not always that simple, especially if they're seized.
The spline end of the driveshaft should never struggle to go back in and I wouldn't recommend forcing it in with the bolt, even less using HGV tools like a 3/4" impact haha, it'll only be even more of a pain next time, clean both male and female splines and grease them up.
Your point about longer splines is a very good one, I found out about those months later but they were about 18" long.
Vice grips on the disc is a good suggestion or a bar through a couple of wheel bolts also works, both methods to be used with caution as not to cause damage to disc or bolts.
Lastly starting the bolts before tightening is good advice, it's a long time since I watched the video and I don't think I mentioned it.
Thank you again for your comment, some good advice and things I wouldn't think to mention as they seem obvious to the mechanically inclined but not so much to a novice.
@@DubworxMedia I work on these for customers - no boot ever "Pops" off. :-) An air hammer usually struggles to "pop" them off if they've sat there festering for years... also no shaft ever (almost ever) "slides" back into the hub, regardless of how clean - line it up, get it in a mil or 2, pull it in with the bolt. Every time. :-)
@jamesward5721 My mistake, I do plenty for customers too, I've just realised the video is "inner CV boot", with the metal attached to it, I was thinking of outer with just the clips, you're correct they don't pop off from the cv joint side.
I've never had to pull a driveshaft spline end into place, maybe the last 10mm or so but never the majority of it 🤷🏼♂️, maybe I've been lucky so far, I've had a few seized in and they usually get replaced because the joint is knackered, I dare say if I had to put a seized one back in, it probably would need pulling in with the bolt, although I'd use a 1/2" impact to limit the risk of damaging the bolt and or threads.
@@DubworxMedia I meant innerz. :-) Outers are handy. There's no great harm pulling the shaft in with the bolt, as long as it's started by hand. Why struggle? :-) I can forgive VW anything today - been working on a Honda... by comparison, VW's are bastions of common sense. Honda are nuts - they just are. Despite their "reputation".
Top job 👏
Cheers, bud!
Very helpful thanks for the video💚🇬🇧🌱
Hi. I looked without sound, but I see that there is no mention of the fact that the bevel on the rim of the basket is not the same on both sides, which many people do not notice and perhaps try to put the basket in upside down?
I'm not sure what you're referring to as the basket, possibly what I called the cage? If so, it is symmetrical iirc, may not be on all CV joints but this one was, thanks
@@DubworxMedia Yes, I thought so. The rim on one side is not as big. One rim of the basket is small and the other is larger.
@@horgasz I've never come across that on an inner CV joint personally but I rarely have to work on them so I'll have to take your word for it.
Straight forward instructions
Thanks for the video. But I think dropping the cage in like you do can only work if the joint has many miles in it..
It works with brand new joints too, just a little fiddly.
@@DubworxMedia I fiddled for 2 days trying to rock it back and forth and inserting one ball after another. It was very hard inserting the 6th ball and the cage would end up stuck. My CV joint was nearly new and very stiff.. not at all like yours. What ended up successful was combining your method with a small hammer blow!
@@haraldpost I found you have to lift the cage slightly for it to drop in nicely but you've got to be swift otherwise the balls come out, alternatively you can sometimes get away with putting the cage in sideways and putting two balls opposite eachother then put the remaining balls in 1 at a time.
@@DubworxMedia I am telling you it would not drop in. I had a mechanic friend come over and he also struggled with it. In the end he placed the cage in, placed the balls in, and then sat the central joint on top and did on small whack with a hammer and in it fell!
@@haraldpost I've also used the technique plenty of times shown in the video on brand new cvs, theres a knack to it!
Thank you a lot.
Loosen tension off torsion bar
I find it's more hassle getting it back to the exact same spot, an un necessary step unless you're really struggling, thanks for the comment.
All good but for first time doing it need littlebit slower. I was reweinding 10 times. And can not see all from your hands.
Yes it's not a job for first timers, the video is to show how it's done if you already have some basic knowledge.