We were running this in the van for about 6 months without any issues but then the wifey wanted something permanent for the van so we just did another install for that but currently in the middle of editing it! The case still comes with us in the car so if we’re away from the van and need to connect when we’re in the middle in nowhere, we can! Haven’t had any issues with it so far even when we accidentally left it out on the rain! Oops 😬 😂
You bloody legend mate! 👊🏽 I like the case as you can take in anywhere and not worry about it getting knocked around or damaged. I’ve even left it out in the rain and it’s been fine. I’m still testing to see if it needs the fan in the case to keep things cooler but it’s been alright so far. The fan is there waiting if I need! 🤙🏽
Hello, thanks for the video, I have built this system, I’ve been experiencing mixed results when the Starlink router is not connected. The main issue is that I have internet access at the non Starlink router, but the Starlink app indicates it’s not connected, preventing me from performing a speed test. Do you recommend turning the "Bypass" setting on in the app for the Starlink router? I’d prefer not to use Bypass, as I want to keep both options available without having to unplug 6 times, which is required to reset the Starlink Router to remove bypass. Or will making this change do nothing? Thank you!
Hey mate, I’ve never used bypass on the Starlink app so wouldn’t know as it would just work. I am still able to do a speed test while using the non Starlink router as it shows online. You just have no option log onto the Starlink Router through the app while using the USB router. You will need to select the router from your wifi list before the Starlink app shows you being online. Have you logged into your router yet? The router should have an IP address that you type into your browsers so you can put passwords and encryption on it etc.
I have gen 3. I was advised to buy Yaosheng 220watt step up and PoE all in one. I bought it and was only then told that I can’t use the SL router with the Yaosheng device. Apparently I also need a third party router. Anyway I ordered GL iNet A1300. This has the usb-c 5 volt port that the Yaosheng device uses. The point is that I should just have stuck with using my inverter or even buying a separate smaller inverter just for SL. That’s what I get for taking advice from FB. The problem is that there is no wiring diagram with the Yaosheng device and they don’t respond to emails. Do you know anything about how it is connected.
Yeah the 3rd gen Starlink does draw more than the 2nd gen. I’m not 100 percent sure which yaosheng POE you have but here’s a link to a wiring diagram. Hope this helps images.app.goo.gl/4ncGPRMB6z3JbMYu5
Thanks for the video...great clear info and Iam onto it. :) I purchased a 1200w 20 amp dc-dc boost converter from Aliexpress for under $20 delivered. should do the trick. (I hope) Cheers
What is the amp draw been like over time? I have heard the starlink connections are quite power hungry. I know you said between 2.4 and 4amps initially but was hoping you have a bit more of an extended insight.
It’s draws about 4amps on startup when it’s booting up and trying to locate satellites etc but then fluctuates between 2 & 3 amps generally. Just tested it on our portable Bluetti AC180 Power Station which gives a live readout display. The above figures include the USB-C router connected to the same power source as everything is connected on the one fuse block
Hey mate, wifi calling can sometimes be hit and miss which is what we found out when we were at Devils Marbles. We’re found that if you put the country code in and then the number it seems to work but we also did turn wifi calling on and off and did the whole IT support trick and restarted our phone! 😂
The range is pretty good, better than what we were getting with the Starlink Router! I’ll have to check the actual range but when we had the Starlink router, we couldn’t even get signal from a couple of caravans away!😬 it also depends on where you have the router placed too! 😃
This video is very helpful, thanks. I have two questions: Once I have the 12 volt hardware setup ready, should I just unplug the Starlink dishy cable from the original router and plug it into the new adapter? It should automatically work with the new router? Are there any configuration modifications to do on the Starlink App? Thanks again.
Hey legend, thanks for tuning in! The dish should automatically work with the new router except you can’t control the router from the Starlink app. You’ll have to log into the router with a generic password through an IP address that comes with the router instructions, then you can change passwords etc… you can still control the dish through the Starlink app though.
Great video mate. Subscribed. Quick question, how do you find the operating temperature with the yellow box? Do you leave the lid cover in an open position ? Best wishes
Thanks for subscribing you bloody legend!🤙🏽 As for the temp, I’ve been closely watching it to see if it gets hot and it hasn’t except for one time when I accidentally left it in full sun but it still worked perfectly though I wouldn’t recommend doing that too often! I do have the fan on hand to install if I think it needs it but at the moment it doesn’t! I’ll do an update if the fan is needed!
You don’t set up the router through the Starlink app. The router will automatically send a wifi signal and you can log into it from the address that the router instructions gives you. Then you can set a password to your wifi
Hi, I made the box as per your instructions and parts. When I powered it up, the router powered up fine and I could login using the generic router password and I got a green LED on the POE injector but no life in the Starlink dish and just coming up disconnected on the Starlink app. Do you think running it on 240V and setting to Bypass mode before trying again would work or do I have a DOA RJ45 ethernet adapter or dodgy ethernet cable between the POE and RJ45 ethernet adaptor?
Hey Derek, maybe you have a component DOA which can happen. I initially had a DOA 12v to USB-C though I had a spare one to try it out which worked perfectly until the replacement arrived! I never ran it on bypass mode I just plugged everything in and it worked (apart from the USBC adapter). You’ll have to somehow test each individual component. Try different cables to see if they’re dodgy.
@@fftcdragonboy7999 I was on the other side of camp saying goodbye to friends and we still had signal. There are a lot of factors that can affect signal. We have our box outside under the wheel arch of the caravan. Caravans can be well insulated which can affect signal. 🤙🏽
@@fftcdragonboy7999 we like it because it’s portable, water resistant, tough and rugged. 🤙🏽 It suits our needs while travelling full time around Australia! 🙌🏾
Hey mate, I would if I could but we’re currently travelling full time on the road around Australia 🇦🇺 so we’re at a different location every couple of days! Ordering parts and putting it together is the easy bit, having an address to send them to is the difficult part for us! 😀
Thats. great kit and well done for making it. Can I ask is this the unit you use in the van as well or do you run a different set up in the van.
We were running this in the van for about 6 months without any issues but then the wifey wanted something permanent for the van so we just did another install for that but currently in the middle of editing it! The case still comes with us in the car so if we’re away from the van and need to connect when we’re in the middle in nowhere, we can! Haven’t had any issues with it so far even when we accidentally left it out on the rain! Oops 😬 😂
Fantastic idea and I think it’s a great idea. Now subscribed.
Keep it coming
You bloody legend mate! 👊🏽 I like the case as you can take in anywhere and not worry about it getting knocked around or damaged. I’ve even left it out in the rain and it’s been fine. I’m still testing to see if it needs the fan in the case to keep things cooler but it’s been alright so far. The fan is there waiting if I need! 🤙🏽
Great how to! Beautiful location.
Thanks mate, it was pretty good!🙌🏾
Hello, thanks for the video, I have built this system,
I’ve been experiencing mixed results when the Starlink router is not connected. The main issue is that I have internet access at the non Starlink router, but the Starlink app indicates it’s not connected, preventing me from performing a speed test.
Do you recommend turning the "Bypass" setting on in the app for the Starlink router? I’d prefer not to use Bypass, as I want to keep both options available without having to unplug 6 times, which is required to reset the Starlink Router to remove bypass.
Or will making this change do nothing?
Thank you!
Hey mate,
I’ve never used bypass on the Starlink app so wouldn’t know as it would just work. I am still able to do a speed test while using the non Starlink router as it shows online. You just have no option log onto the Starlink Router through the app while using the USB router. You will need to select the router from your wifi list before the Starlink app shows you being online. Have you logged into your router yet? The router should have an IP address that you type into your browsers so you can put passwords and encryption on it etc.
A better illustration of the wireing hookup would be great for novices.
I have gen 3. I was advised to buy Yaosheng 220watt step up and PoE all in one. I bought it and was only then told that I can’t use the SL router with the Yaosheng device. Apparently I also need a third party router. Anyway I ordered GL iNet A1300. This has the
usb-c 5 volt port that the Yaosheng device uses. The point is that I should just have stuck with using my inverter or even buying a separate smaller inverter just for SL. That’s what I get for taking advice from FB.
The problem is that there is no wiring diagram with the Yaosheng device and they don’t respond to emails. Do you know anything about how it is connected.
Yeah the 3rd gen Starlink does draw more than the 2nd gen. I’m not 100 percent sure which yaosheng POE you have but here’s a link to a wiring diagram. Hope this helps images.app.goo.gl/4ncGPRMB6z3JbMYu5
Thanks for the video...great clear info and Iam onto it. :) I purchased a 1200w 20 amp dc-dc boost converter from Aliexpress for under $20 delivered. should do the trick. (I hope) Cheers
Fingers crossed mate and thanks for tuning in legend!🤙🏽
What is the amp draw been like over time? I have heard the starlink connections are quite power hungry. I know you said between 2.4 and 4amps initially but was hoping you have a bit more of an extended insight.
It’s draws about 4amps on startup when it’s booting up and trying to locate satellites etc but then fluctuates between 2 & 3 amps generally. Just tested it on our portable Bluetti AC180 Power Station which gives a live readout display. The above figures include the USB-C router connected to the same power source as everything is connected on the one fuse block
How did you set up the Opal for WiFi Calling??? I have the same system but Wifi Calling is intermittent.
Hey mate, wifi calling can sometimes be hit and miss which is what we found out when we were at Devils Marbles. We’re found that if you put the country code in and then the number it seems to work but we also did turn wifi calling on and off and did the whole IT support trick and restarted our phone! 😂
What’s the range like with the router
The range is pretty good, better than what we were getting with the Starlink Router! I’ll have to check the actual range but when we had the Starlink router, we couldn’t even get signal from a couple of caravans away!😬 it also depends on where you have the router placed too! 😃
This video is very helpful, thanks.
I have two questions:
Once I have the 12 volt hardware setup ready, should I just unplug the Starlink dishy cable from the original router and plug it into the new adapter? It should automatically work with the new router?
Are there any configuration modifications to do on the Starlink App?
Thanks again.
Hey legend, thanks for tuning in! The dish should automatically work with the new router except you can’t control the router from the Starlink app. You’ll have to log into the router with a generic password through an IP address that comes with the router instructions, then you can change passwords etc… you can still control the dish through the Starlink app though.
Great video mate. Subscribed. Quick question, how do you find the operating temperature with the yellow box? Do you leave the lid cover in an open position ?
Best wishes
Thanks for subscribing you bloody legend!🤙🏽
As for the temp, I’ve been closely watching it to see if it gets hot and it hasn’t except for one time when I accidentally left it in full sun but it still worked perfectly though I wouldn’t recommend doing that too often! I do have the fan on hand to install if I think it needs it but at the moment it doesn’t! I’ll do an update if the fan is needed!
How do you set up the router? Do you have to go into the settings and change anything?
You don’t set up the router through the Starlink app. The router will automatically send a wifi signal and you can log into it from the address that the router instructions gives you. Then you can set a password to your wifi
@@GrabLifeByTheGourlays No worries. Thanks for the swift reply.
No worries! Happy to help!
Hi, I made the box as per your instructions and parts. When I powered it up, the router powered up fine and I could login using the generic router password and I got a green LED on the POE injector but no life in the Starlink dish and just coming up disconnected on the Starlink app. Do you think running it on 240V and setting to Bypass mode before trying again would work or do I have a DOA RJ45 ethernet adapter or dodgy ethernet cable between the POE and RJ45 ethernet adaptor?
Hey Derek, maybe you have a component DOA which can happen. I initially had a DOA 12v to USB-C though I had a spare one to try it out which worked perfectly until the replacement arrived! I never ran it on bypass mode I just plugged everything in and it worked (apart from the USBC adapter). You’ll have to somehow test each individual component. Try different cables to see if they’re dodgy.
OK, thanks. Is the little ethernet cable between the POE and RJ45 adapter a standard Cat 4 ethernet cable?
is this for the gen 2 or gen 3 starlink as some say a 56v dc dc converter is needed for the gen 3. Thanks for the clarification
This is for the Gen 2 which is what I have but you could always get the right step up converter to match the Gen 3!
@@pmurphy12667 this is for Gen 2 which is what we have. You’re right, The Gen 3 needs a bigger step up converter as it uses more power!🙌🏾
what the range like
Hey legend, I haven’t officially measured it but it’s probably around 50 meters! 🙌🏾
@@GrabLifeByTheGourlays ah if u could measure it be great as I wanner but router with good range as I'm sharing it with mum caravan
@@fftcdragonboy7999 I was on the other side of camp saying goodbye to friends and we still had signal. There are a lot of factors that can affect signal. We have our box outside under the wheel arch of the caravan. Caravans can be well insulated which can affect signal. 🤙🏽
@GrabLifeByTheGourlays sounds good was goner build mine same as yours so I can swicht it around on different battery's xD
@@fftcdragonboy7999 we like it because it’s portable, water resistant, tough and rugged. 🤙🏽 It suits our needs while travelling full time around Australia! 🙌🏾
Lou Diamond Phillips :) :) ;)
La La La La Bamba 🕺🏽
Hey mate can you make me one
Hey legend, currently doing a lap of Australia but I can say that the case has held up well even in the Outback! 🤙🏽
How many amps were you drawing on the standard setup through an inverter?
I don’t have exact figures right now but I’ll add them soon! 🤙🏽We have a 3000w inverter and like any inverter, it draws power without any load on. 😬
Just switched the inverter on and we are drawing 3amps with no load!😳
hmmmmmm ... cheaper just to buy a 12v Starlink mini
Would you be interested in building me one. 60 year old and no idea. Live in Queensland
Hey mate, I would if I could but we’re currently travelling full time on the road around Australia 🇦🇺 so we’re at a different location every couple of days! Ordering parts and putting it together is the easy bit, having an address to send them to is the difficult part for us! 😀
Got it to work thank you
@anthonycumner3120 that’s so awesome, what a legend!🙌🏾