Yeah, the Charade is a good car and worth some effort. Coolant can’t be coming from and inlet manifold though, there’s no coolant going through it. It must be leaking from the head gasket. If it is just coming out of one side it wouldn’t necessarily go into the oil. Edge seals fail quite commonly. The smoke is valve stem seals I think because if happens when induction is sucking hard. Also after idling for a while. Piston ring oil burning happens continually when accelerator is down. So I wouldn’t take the pistons out if I were you, not without doing a compression test first.
I´m sorry @Bicyclehub, there *is* water going through the intake manifold. A leaking gasket is quite common on the L250/L251 engines because the plastic intake manifold starts to warp after several years. A new gasket from Daihatsu / Toyota is about 30EUR, aftermarket parts may be cheaper. @HubNut: You want to have Ms HubNut around when you start to work on the intake manifold - not a lot of space back there, remember working on Rita´s generator? :)
Re disposal of old coolant (or indeed oil, filters etc)....as someone said earlier, speak nicely to local garages, or Tanygroes Dismantlers - they'd certainly have full "hazardous" disposal facilities.
I bought a Charade of my own in January, identical except for red paint - couldn’t be happier with it! Perfect car for bombing about the streets of Wellington. Hopefully Chemmy can be righted with the minimum of fuss.
@@benholroyd5221 It could be identical in specification and aesthetics, the colour is just a liquid sprayed on the same panels, if we're being pedantic...
@@jmurray01 I'm always pedantic! (Well technically not always, sometimes I'm asleep). Are you saying therefore that the Mona Lisa is identical to my 4 year olds pictures? As the only difference is the colour of the liquid?
@@michaelwright2986 so.....? Identical is a fairly absolute word. Plus why is superficial judgement of an inanimate thing bad? Does the car have hidden depths? Are they more or less likely to be identical?
Last year I resurrected a twenty year old Cuore that had spent the last ten years sat in a garage with 26k on the clock. With a jump start it fired on the first turn, on 10-year old petrol, and everything worked bar one blocked washer jet. After a bit of welding it passed an MoT and it's been in daily use ever since. They're a good little car and worth looking after.
If the smoke mostly clears up when it comes up to temp it's likely the valve guide seals, if you're gonna do the intake gasket might as well do the seals
When I bought my MX5 many years ago the engine had a few "issues." Worn valve stem seals so it was smoky on startup and no4 spark plug was not coming out the head for love nor money (just as well as I had no money). I opted to go for a second hand engine that our local club affiliated parts guy had sourced out of Japan and did the swap myself. It generally went alright, but being an engine of slightly unknown mileage and provenance there are a few things I would do differently this time around. First, change the easy things like the thermostat, oil and filters while the engine was still on the ground. I ended up with a stuck thermostat causing no end of panic. I also ended up with an oil filter that felt like it had been done up with an impact wrench and was very difficult to remove in the car. Second, do things like the timing belt, water pump and crank and cam seals while the engine is still out the car. No fun going through all the work of an engine swap and having to spend a weekend 6 months later doing a cam belt and water pump. This may work out cheaper in the long run than trying to recondition a head only to find out you need rings, and then having to pull the motor anyway to rebore the engine, or even just rehone the cylinders. It also means if the engine is out you can check the condition of the clutch. Which I am sorry sound expensive either way. I hope you can get it fixed without too much bother.
The problem is that you never know about those bits. I am actually suffering from a similar situation on a motorcycle. I went in to fix a specific leak and opted to not replace all the other seal in the same area thinking they looked fine. Unfortunately, another failed withing 24 hours of the first repair. So I am going to do the first job again, plus the second job and now I have decided that all the seals in that location are going to be refreshed so I don't have to do it again anytime soon.
Very good advice and fine if you have the time and can get the parts. I used to blow through clutches very regularly indeed so just swapped out friction plates as a more or less regular service item. The release bearing and pressure place was always done at the same time. No point going cheap after spending 1/2 a day getting more than a little bit dirty.
It’s very refreshing to hear you talking about making sure you clean the coolant off the floor to protect cats and wildlife. So many other people just seem to drop it, spill it and don’t appear to do anything about cleaning it up 👍🏼👍🏼
being someone who used to do jobs like this, I would have to decide whether to strip an engine, the cost of parts, not just a full gasket set, but new water pump, maybe valves if they are worn and god knows what else, or replace the engine with another. Often replacing the engine was cheaper and easier and saved you from what may be your worst nightmare. However, if you just got a top end gasket set and wiped the head off then it might not be so expensive. Normaly when a car smokes as yours does, it is usually when the engine stops and there is a pool of oil on the top of the head, over the period of an hour or more the oil seeps through the valve stem seals, then when you start her she smokes for a couple of mins till the oil clears. If the rings werwe needing replaced she would have very little power and she would smoke continually. From what I can see it looks like valve stem seals need replaced, and if this is the case then do the job, however if she still smokes after being warmed up, then bite the bullet and change the engine for another one.. Hope this helps Ian as I know it is a big choice to make.
I really hate the throwaway society most people seem to have adopted. I'm definitely on the side of repair. I'm sure if you do it yourself it will be economically viable and think of the Ms Hubnut Brownie points 😉
One thing that could cause that smoke when cold is if the pistons are not hard enough. If the groove for the oil ring widens, the ring can act like an oil pump, pushing oil into the combustion chamber. Back in the 80s the Volvo dealer discovered this on an apparently pristine Honda Accord. Warm, it was perfect. When they started it the next day, they almost lost the showroom in the smoke, but again, once warm, the smoke was virtually zero. Another engine may be the quick way forward while the original gets a proper rebuild.
When you get a lot of movement in the engine it can be due to worn engine mounts and that tends to rattle all the gaskets loose along with anything else dangling off it. So might be worth checking them for wear if you're diving into guts of it
You should (when time allows) get miss hubnut to remove, refurb and refit engine. Great learning curve and good value for money given what she would learn. You should be able to take coolant to some motor factors. Oil filters - just keep them upside down in a catch can to drain and then treat as scrap metal.
I would so much like to see you do the rings. I knew a car dealer that used to buy smoky cars cheap and do rings and valve seals. It was usually very successful and often less work than fitting a second hand engine. It's quite simple really if the sump is full of metal shavings then stop...probably should check the oil pressure before starting the job.
Nice to have found your videos, I've got a Daihatsu YRV of same age with same engine with same problems. Heavy white/blue smoke when starting, and some leaking outlet manifold gaskets, maybe inlet as well. It's a nice driving car but a pity these engines seem to be quite troublesome. Leaking piston rings is a common known failure for these EJ-VE engines. I have replaced the valve seals and now the engine is consuming oil at a rate of 1 litre to 1500km, probably the oil scraping rings are worn, yet not the compression rings it seems. Looking forward to your new video with at follow up on this leaking issue.
Given I've just sold my 340 (£1500 MOT fail mainly thanks to previous bodge welding) I'm in no position to say "don't get rid of it!" but the engine rebuild IS doable and otherwise it is a decent vehicle which you've already invested in. Up to you both but I'd be interested in seeing the work and I'm sure the skills you'd learn wouldn't go to waste.
Some cars have a breather system pre-heater. Warms up the crankcase vapours and prevents emulsion. These can be located around the inlet manifold are and often misinterpreted as coolant leaking from an inlet. Not saying this is your case but definitely worth some research 👍
Great content as always. Like I mentioned in Your first video when the white smoke was coming out, it is the head gasket I am afraid. I am amateur and managed to changed it in my 206 1.4i all by myself ( need various new bolts, torque tools and values etc). Also I used for very short time yellow coolant sold in tesco which seemed to eat thru the old gasket so look for manufacturer preferred liquid. I had white cloud disappear after engine got warm but in the end I couldn't start as coolant was flooding cylinders. Got there just on time. It cost me £45 and 2 days of work. Might add another £200/£300 if letting the garage to do it. Anyway my pug is working like a charm now and no issues for almost year so far. I might be wrong just trying to find solution. Greetings from York.
Ian - check with your local council to see if they offer a collect/dispose service. Some do this free of charge for 'up to 20 litres' with a small charge per litre over that amount. If not then check with your local garages - some will take small amounts as they can just put it in with their usual recycling, which regularly gets pumped away to be disposed of correctly.
As an owner of a Cuore, I'd hate to see this one go. There is not a lot of Daihatsu service content on youtube, so it'd be great to see you tackle it! Especially since you have the English service manual :)
Ian may I request you to do a wet and dry compression test before you dive in that way you will be able to tell weather or not the problems are with the head and valves,or down below in the cylinders.
As much as the content will be interesting, I’m struggling a bit with the logic! Happy to go to the effort of an engine rebuild on the Charade which will only really be useful when Miss HubNut passes her test, but don’t want to do a clutch on the C5 which has proven to be almost the ideal family car?
Oh dear poor Chemmy the Charade. I do believe that the car deserves the chance to live on & be repaired so that she can give you many more Happy miles of motoring ahead.
Look on the bright side, Ian, at least you're rust proofing your new exhaust from the inside out... I think sorting Chemmy out is a very good idea, it fits Miss Hubnut very well and the repair is unlikely to cost a lot of money, though it will be time consuming...
There are some squeaky clean ones out there with low mileage for not much more than you've spend on that one. Naming cars and forming an emotional attachment to them is an expensive business. Reminds me of the Gambler by Kenny Rogers...this one's more of a "know when to run".
I bought a 2004 Charade a couple of years ago for £500 and it was one of the best cars I've owned (60 cars in 17 years) The only car I ever felt strongly enough to name!
Just a thought , the smoke problem couldn’t be connected to the inlet manifold fault could it ? Maybe a crack and it sucking cooant into the engine ? I take it it’s a water heated manifold ? Maybe worth a close look it maybe needs a manifold not an engine re build
Yep - she's a tough question, that. One also has to weigh up whether a 'reconditioned' short block (or entire engine) would have been done to your own personal standards or whether it would be more cost-effective to do it yourself (presuming you wish to tackle the internals of the 3-cylinder engine). With coolant pouring out the rear and nowhere near a coolant hose, the time is certainly right to ponder a rebuild. A low milage, second hand engine is always a gamble unless you know the history of the car it came out of or the bloke selling it to you......and is it really a cheaper alternative if you are in the same (or similar) boat soon after a transplant? Since Shemmy is so beloved and is otherwise pretty sound, one must consider the ramifications on the home front should one consider a third option of replacing the entire car.....and since that would never end well (and no need to ask me how I know), an engine rebuild she must have. Yes, you might spend more than what you paid for the car doing so, but at the same time the car will now be worth more and (better still) would give faithful, reliable and smoke-free service for many miles after. If it were me, I would replace things like oil pump, water pump, timing chain(s) / belt(s) and all bearings and seals, give the bores a hone and give the valves a grind - or at least a lapping in / reseat. That way I'm not having to pull it apart again at a later time to do them....and anything else that the failing part might have damaged. Cutting corners on a rebuild is also a gamble.....and can also cost you more than the cost of doing it all first time around. I look forward to the upcoming episodes / series on The Shemmy Shenanigans! All the best
We where on a run to Carlisle one time I had a perodua kelisa (daihatsu) it sprung a leak parked up let it cool down went straight to wilko jubilee click water an anti freeze fixed after our visit and no other problems greetings from Scotland 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
@@HubNut As you know so well ALL cars have problems so selling and replacing won't save you from that. So the question is if the car otherwise serves well and is satisfying then invest in it. Some cars you have had a long time others you quickly dispose of, and wisely so. Chemmy looks like a keeper to me from across the Atlantic 🙂
One thing I can vouch for as I've been down the same road , families with young children involved totally buggers up trying to work or tinker on a car let alone a fleet of them
Repairing an engine of a £190 car will never be economically viable but this is HubNut where we don't do sensible things so by all means, go fix Chemmy! 😄 I would recommend though, to make some physical and mental room first, get rid of the Sana (even when that means it will be collected for free) and dismantle the bad Oltcit. It works so much better when there is room both in your head and your workspace and taking a car apart is the best way to get to know the car with the least amount of stress (if you break something, it was a broken car anyway!)
Hey Mr H. I used to own one of these Daihatsu charade L251. But she was hit from behind and written off. I have some brand new spare parts like water pump, spark plugs, brake discs and pads AND... a BMC high flow cotton air filter which is washable and reusable. If you are interested let me know 😊👍
The chain parts stores on this side of the pond take oil, antifreeze, and such for recycling. Tried Halfords? I do not recommend honing cylinders with the block in the car. Besides being a miserable experience, how do you deploy the large amounts of soap and hot water needed to get all the honing grit out of the bores? If memory serves, you have an engine hoist, at least you did down by the tracks. The engine has to come out. I would have a good engine waiting so I only had to do it once....
@@mbak7801 The face of the rings and the bore surface need to work out their microscopic differences to seal properly. If the bores are left as is and new rings installed, the rings won't seal to the bores and you'll have a worse oil burner than it already is. Honing gives the bore a new, slightly abrasive surface so the rings can make it all shiny again and seal. It also doesn't remove enough material to worry about....
These engines do get smoky with mileage but keep an eye on the coolant and oil and they just seem to go on and on normally just oil stem seals and guides but people normally just run these in to the ground so don’t get them serviced or repaired just scrapped them when they ware out.
Yes, before you mentioned it the thought crossed my mind that maybe you should do the engine rebuild while you're at it. This is, after all, an inportant car, it's ideal for frontline service and very practical. I certainly wouldn't want to scrap it, far too good for that. If it was rotten it would be an entirely different matter but this one looks good and solid. I mean, yeah it's a lot of messing about but I wouldn't think it'll be an expensive job.
I have a Charade. Unfortunately the engine warning light has come on. Though I have had the sensor replaced the engine warning light is still on. Any ideas on why this is so and can this be reset?
Oh boy! I wish I could give you an answer Ian. I've tried both ways, work with what you've got and swapping for another. I think I would go for repairing the one in the car. At least you know where you're starting from. However, I would do the whole thing, rings an'all. Belt and braces sort of solution. You will feel a complete numpty if you don't and it still smokes afterwards. Don't know if that helps much really.
Also put in new shell bearings for the big ends. They may or may not need changing but will probably give better oil pressure if they are a little bit worn. OK a bit of a bodge but they are (or at least were) cheap enough.
A replacement engine might be easier than stripping yours BUT i would if it was me go for the lower milage ones, i used to do similar with metros years ago buying cars with trashed gearboxes then doing a full swap with salvaged ones
Hot air fuel mix produces a less efficient burn, so some manufacturers run coolant through it to regulate the temperature so fueling can be optimised (though I’m not sure charades do actually have this system) maybe a head gasket issue
I always mix the coolant with the used oil and take it to the tip, oil filters go in the bin. If the powers that be make disposal impossible them more fool them.
Could ask your local garage that you're friendly with regarding disposal of coolant. Surely they have a disposal network for all their fluids and other hazardous consumables?
Scotty has a slightly loose front wheel bearing. Early days at the moment. With it not being a driven wheel, I think I can live with it for a while. May take the whole hub assembly off Whisky.
The inlet manifold wont be able to leak coolant, Unless there is anything else like a thermostat near the area. The head gasket is the only option. With the smoke its a full rebuild, new engine or just scrap it.
I would love to see you pop the head off and revamp rings and have the valve guides sorted. In principle an easy job which I have done several times on old cars. It seems the old days of 75 or so lb ft torque for cylinder head bolts are truly gone. Now it is a lower number of Nm (the force required to accelerate 1Kg mass at 1 metre per second per second applied at 1metre from the axis where the force is applied (what a crap system)) followed by cranking bolts repeatedly through 90 or 180 degrees or more (all depends on the engine). Much more complicated and the sight of people cranking hard on a 3 foot long bar a really horrible sight. I am afraid your love of 'no more than finger tight' would just not work.
As others said... I think that Chemmy is a keeper. For the problem... Probably I would buy an used engine as a temporary solution. Then, bit by bit, you should consider in repairing it with the precious help of Miss HubNut..
I really think you should sell the Daihatsu and concentrate on Myrtle. Most likely the inlet manifold gaskets are just rubber o rings ...easy to replace but then it still needs stem seals.....big job.
I agree that this would be a good project car. Have Miss HubNut make a list 📃 of parts needed for a rebuild, barring unforeseen circumstances. And this would be a project you both could work on, barring Miss HubNut'S job. Scrapping this solves nothing, I'm of the same mindset this, meaning Chemmie, can be saved, and should be!
You're right about other engines. They may have the same problem and you don't know the history of them either. An engine rebuild is more expensive but you get peace of mind.
This is probably a dumb question, but what is the reason why you can't collect the coolant that's now in the car, keep it in a Very Big Bottle, and then put it back in when you've rebuilt the engine?
Just do the engine for her (ms Hubnut ) she seems like she loves that car so it doesn’t matter what it’s worth etc. It’s worth to her, I’ve got the same dilemma with some on my fleet but I like them if I spend on them more than they are worth, it doesn’t matter as long as I enjoy them afterwards, some will,cost thousands 😩 Good video🙂👍
As you have the manuals for the charade, could you not do a bit of light bedtime reading and see if the manifold has any cooling channels before committing to pulling it apart? I know, not very hubnut 😁
If you find it is likely the head gasket/ seals and you decide the expensive/ effort of a proper repair isn't justified on such a cheap car, you could do a lot worse than try a can of "K-Seal" in the coolant.
Poor Chemmy. I'm still amazed by how good she is for under £200 so it's worth spending a bit of time and money on her. As many have said, you could buy a more expensive and still have to do work so stick with the one you know if she's fixable. I'd say the same with the C5.
I would either do the following - Find a rebuilt crate engine for Chemmy or if it not too expensive, have the current engine rebuilt. - Sell the car off and find a suitable replacement I wouldn't just replace the intake gasket and then pull it off again when you need to reco the engine. It will be far too costly and effort having to do the same job multiple times. Just my two cent
There is an exponential scale where each added vehicle increases the amount of hassle by a factor of ten. With ten vehicles on the go, you are well up this scale!
I'd try and source another engine and swap it. It's a tiny and very manageable thing by the looks of it. As many have said, it looks like a valve stem issue and although that's not massively difficult to sort, it does involve a lot more tinkering and may lead to further unwanted discoveries about the valves themselves and their sealing etc. An engine swap would be safer, easier and more procedural to do, I think. :)
I would hold off on the worst purchase ever bit considering the 2 garage queens in the back of the garage. Give it some love and it will pay you back in relatively trouble free miles.
With a replacement engine, you could at least get any gaskets and seals fitted while it's outside of the engine bay versus trying to do it in the space available... :)
The Daihatsu is not the worst car you've ever bought by a long way, the Olcit claims that crown.
Which one? He has two now....
The yugo is bad
Yeah, the Charade is a good car and worth some effort. Coolant can’t be coming from and inlet manifold though, there’s no coolant going through it. It must be leaking from the head gasket. If it is just coming out of one side it wouldn’t necessarily go into the oil. Edge seals fail quite commonly. The smoke is valve stem seals I think because if happens when induction is sucking hard. Also after idling for a while. Piston ring oil burning happens continually when accelerator is down. So I wouldn’t take the pistons out if I were you, not without doing a compression test first.
good info!
I´m sorry @Bicyclehub, there *is* water going through the intake manifold. A leaking gasket is quite common on the L250/L251 engines because the plastic intake manifold starts to warp after several years. A new gasket from Daihatsu / Toyota is about 30EUR, aftermarket parts may be cheaper.
@HubNut: You want to have Ms HubNut around when you start to work on the intake manifold - not a lot of space back there, remember working on Rita´s generator? :)
Re disposal of old coolant (or indeed oil, filters etc)....as someone said earlier, speak nicely to local garages, or Tanygroes Dismantlers - they'd certainly have full "hazardous" disposal facilities.
A 2004 Daihatsu Charade has been one of 60 cars I've owned in 17 years and was also one of my most favourites!
I bought a Charade of my own in January, identical except for red paint - couldn’t be happier with it! Perfect car for bombing about the streets of Wellington. Hopefully Chemmy can be righted with the minimum of fuss.
so identical, except that every panel is different...
@@benholroyd5221 It could be identical in specification and aesthetics, the colour is just a liquid sprayed on the same panels, if we're being pedantic...
@@jmurray01 I'm always pedantic! (Well technically not always, sometimes I'm asleep).
Are you saying therefore that the Mona Lisa is identical to my 4 year olds pictures? As the only difference is the colour of the liquid?
@@benholroyd5221 That is an extraordinarily two-dimensional way of thinking about things. One might call it "superficial."
@@michaelwright2986 so.....?
Identical is a fairly absolute word. Plus why is superficial judgement of an inanimate thing bad? Does the car have hidden depths? Are they more or less likely to be identical?
Last year I resurrected a twenty year old Cuore that had spent the last ten years sat in a garage with 26k on the clock. With a jump start it fired on the first turn, on 10-year old petrol, and everything worked bar one blocked washer jet. After a bit of welding it passed an MoT and it's been in daily use ever since. They're a good little car and worth looking after.
If the smoke mostly clears up when it comes up to temp it's likely the valve guide seals, if you're gonna do the intake gasket might as well do the seals
Could also be the cat finishing up the combustion of the oil.
valve seal is a common issue with the car,.
Another way to diagnose valve stems seals is if it only smokes in over-run once warm.
190 quid you worse purchase ever? you're having a laugh Mr H, from a man with 2 Olcit's and some weird Yugo!! LOL
Oh thats a bit much, only one has a prolapse...
The Mitsubishi Delica was a dog.
When I bought my MX5 many years ago the engine had a few "issues." Worn valve stem seals so it was smoky on startup and no4 spark plug was not coming out the head for love nor money (just as well as I had no money). I opted to go for a second hand engine that our local club affiliated parts guy had sourced out of Japan and did the swap myself. It generally went alright, but being an engine of slightly unknown mileage and provenance there are a few things I would do differently this time around.
First, change the easy things like the thermostat, oil and filters while the engine was still on the ground. I ended up with a stuck thermostat causing no end of panic. I also ended up with an oil filter that felt like it had been done up with an impact wrench and was very difficult to remove in the car.
Second, do things like the timing belt, water pump and crank and cam seals while the engine is still out the car. No fun going through all the work of an engine swap and having to spend a weekend 6 months later doing a cam belt and water pump.
This may work out cheaper in the long run than trying to recondition a head only to find out you need rings, and then having to pull the motor anyway to rebore the engine, or even just rehone the cylinders.
It also means if the engine is out you can check the condition of the clutch.
Which I am sorry sound expensive either way. I hope you can get it fixed without too much bother.
The problem is that you never know about those bits. I am actually suffering from a similar situation on a motorcycle. I went in to fix a specific leak and opted to not replace all the other seal in the same area thinking they looked fine. Unfortunately, another failed withing 24 hours of the first repair. So I am going to do the first job again, plus the second job and now I have decided that all the seals in that location are going to be refreshed so I don't have to do it again anytime soon.
All good advice. While I had my engine apart, I replaced all the core plugs, as one had started weeping.
Very good advice and fine if you have the time and can get the parts. I used to blow through clutches very regularly indeed so just swapped out friction plates as a more or less regular service item. The release bearing and pressure place was always done at the same time. No point going cheap after spending 1/2 a day getting more than a little bit dirty.
So good to be out of hospital and viewing your videos again Mr HubNut, long live the Charade.
It’s very refreshing to hear you talking about making sure you clean the coolant off the floor to protect cats and wildlife. So many other people just seem to drop it, spill it and don’t appear to do anything about cleaning it up 👍🏼👍🏼
Doing the various repairs, either yourself or with help, to get Chemmy tip top will make a great set of playlist content
being someone who used to do jobs like this, I would have to decide whether to strip an engine, the cost of parts, not just a full gasket set, but new water pump, maybe valves if they are worn and god knows what else, or replace the engine with another. Often replacing the engine was cheaper and easier and saved you from what may be your worst nightmare. However, if you just got a top end gasket set and wiped the head off then it might not be so expensive. Normaly when a car smokes as yours does, it is usually when the engine stops and there is a pool of oil on the top of the head, over the period of an hour or more the oil seeps through the valve stem seals, then when you start her she smokes for a couple of mins till the oil clears. If the rings werwe needing replaced she would have very little power and she would smoke continually. From what I can see it looks like valve stem seals need replaced, and if this is the case then do the job, however if she still smokes after being warmed up, then bite the bullet and change the engine for another one.. Hope this helps Ian as I know it is a big choice to make.
Also,, if you remove the head you should pressure test it and skim it too,, just to be safe
If you can get a boroscope it's worth having a look down the bores to see the state of the pistons and bores.
This could be Miss hubnuts time to shine! A series of videos with her showing you and us the pitfalls and triumphs of an engine rebuild.
Ian, thank you for thinking about the cats. Good man!
I really hate the throwaway society most people seem to have adopted. I'm definitely on the side of repair. I'm sure if you do it yourself it will be economically viable and think of the Ms Hubnut Brownie points 😉
One thing that could cause that smoke when cold is if the pistons are not hard enough. If the groove for the oil ring widens, the ring can act like an oil pump, pushing oil into the combustion chamber. Back in the 80s the Volvo dealer discovered this on an apparently pristine Honda Accord. Warm, it was perfect. When they started it the next day, they almost lost the showroom in the smoke, but again, once warm, the smoke was virtually zero. Another engine may be the quick way forward while the original gets a proper rebuild.
When you get a lot of movement in the engine it can be due to worn engine mounts and that tends to rattle all the gaskets loose along with anything else dangling off it. So might be worth checking them for wear if you're diving into guts of it
Certainly not the worst running car you've had. The Daimler and that rusty Rover 820 come straight to mind.
You should (when time allows) get miss hubnut to remove, refurb and refit engine. Great learning curve and good value for money given what she would learn. You should be able to take coolant to some motor factors. Oil filters - just keep them upside down in a catch can to drain and then treat as scrap metal.
Maybe get a complete engine to swap over quickly, then rebuild the original at leisure..... or not! (Hubnut)
I would so much like to see you do the rings. I knew a car dealer that used to buy smoky cars cheap and do rings and valve seals. It was usually very successful and often less work than fitting a second hand engine. It's quite simple really if the sump is full of metal shavings then stop...probably should check the oil pressure before starting the job.
Nice to have found your videos, I've got a Daihatsu YRV of same age with same engine with same problems. Heavy white/blue smoke when starting, and some leaking outlet manifold gaskets, maybe inlet as well. It's a nice driving car but a pity these engines seem to be quite troublesome. Leaking piston rings is a common known failure for these EJ-VE engines. I have replaced the valve seals and now the engine is consuming oil at a rate of 1 litre to 1500km, probably the oil scraping rings are worn, yet not the compression rings it seems.
Looking forward to your new video with at follow up on this leaking issue.
Given I've just sold my 340 (£1500 MOT fail mainly thanks to previous bodge welding) I'm in no position to say "don't get rid of it!" but the engine rebuild IS doable and otherwise it is a decent vehicle which you've already invested in. Up to you both but I'd be interested in seeing the work and I'm sure the skills you'd learn wouldn't go to waste.
Keep this car on the road, it's not about logic,or financial sense. It's about why you love what you do. Go for it Ian
Some cars have a breather system pre-heater. Warms up the crankcase vapours and prevents emulsion. These can be located around the inlet manifold are and often misinterpreted as coolant leaking from an inlet. Not saying this is your case but definitely worth some research 👍
Great content as always. Like I mentioned in Your first video when the white smoke was coming out, it is the head gasket I am afraid. I am amateur and managed to changed it in my 206 1.4i all by myself ( need various new bolts, torque tools and values etc). Also I used for very short time yellow coolant sold in tesco which seemed to eat thru the old gasket so look for manufacturer preferred liquid. I had white cloud disappear after engine got warm but in the end I couldn't start as coolant was flooding cylinders. Got there just on time. It cost me £45 and 2 days of work. Might add another £200/£300 if letting the garage to do it. Anyway my pug is working like a charm now and no issues for almost year so far. I might be wrong just trying to find solution. Greetings from York.
Ian - check with your local council to see if they offer a collect/dispose service. Some do this free of charge for 'up to 20 litres' with a small charge per litre over that amount.
If not then check with your local garages - some will take small amounts as they can just put it in with their usual recycling, which regularly gets pumped away to be disposed of correctly.
As an owner of a Cuore, I'd hate to see this one go. There is not a lot of Daihatsu service content on youtube, so it'd be great to see you tackle it! Especially since you have the English service manual :)
The perfect opportunity for Miss Hubnut to learn more about how her engine works.
Ian may I request you to do a wet and dry compression test before you dive in that way you will be able to tell weather or not the problems are with the head and valves,or down below in the cylinders.
As much as the content will be interesting, I’m struggling a bit with the logic! Happy to go to the effort of an engine rebuild on the Charade which will only really be useful when Miss HubNut passes her test, but don’t want to do a clutch on the C5 which has proven to be almost the ideal family car?
there is no logic im sure the charade has done 130k miles or so its done !
How is bangernomics comparing to offloading the whole fleet and the unit, and leasing something modern with a warranty at this point?
Err we would have nothing to watch?
Oh dear poor Chemmy the Charade. I do believe that the car deserves the chance to live on & be repaired so that she can give you many more Happy miles of motoring ahead.
Just a thought perhaps the inlet manifold gasket is letting some coolant in causing the smoke situation to be even worse
Look on the bright side, Ian, at least you're rust proofing your new exhaust from the inside out...
I think sorting Chemmy out is a very good idea, it fits Miss Hubnut very well and the repair is unlikely to cost a lot of money, though it will be time consuming...
No coolant problems or head gasket problems on 2cv, I love it.
There are some squeaky clean ones out there with low mileage for not much more than you've spend on that one. Naming cars and forming an emotional attachment to them is an expensive business. Reminds me of the Gambler by Kenny Rogers...this one's more of a "know when to run".
I bought a 2004 Charade a couple of years ago for £500 and it was one of the best cars I've owned (60 cars in 17 years)
The only car I ever felt strongly enough to name!
Just a thought , the smoke problem couldn’t be connected to the inlet manifold fault could it ? Maybe a crack and it sucking cooant into the engine ? I take it it’s a water heated manifold ? Maybe worth a close look it maybe needs a manifold not an engine re build
Yep - she's a tough question, that. One also has to weigh up whether a 'reconditioned' short block (or entire engine) would have been done to your own personal standards or whether it would be more cost-effective to do it yourself (presuming you wish to tackle the internals of the 3-cylinder engine). With coolant pouring out the rear and nowhere near a coolant hose, the time is certainly right to ponder a rebuild. A low milage, second hand engine is always a gamble unless you know the history of the car it came out of or the bloke selling it to you......and is it really a cheaper alternative if you are in the same (or similar) boat soon after a transplant?
Since Shemmy is so beloved and is otherwise pretty sound, one must consider the ramifications on the home front should one consider a third option of replacing the entire car.....and since that would never end well (and no need to ask me how I know), an engine rebuild she must have. Yes, you might spend more than what you paid for the car doing so, but at the same time the car will now be worth more and (better still) would give faithful, reliable and smoke-free service for many miles after. If it were me, I would replace things like oil pump, water pump, timing chain(s) / belt(s) and all bearings and seals, give the bores a hone and give the valves a grind - or at least a lapping in / reseat. That way I'm not having to pull it apart again at a later time to do them....and anything else that the failing part might have damaged. Cutting corners on a rebuild is also a gamble.....and can also cost you more than the cost of doing it all first time around.
I look forward to the upcoming episodes / series on The Shemmy Shenanigans! All the best
We where on a run to Carlisle one time I had a perodua kelisa (daihatsu) it sprung a leak parked up let it cool down went straight to wilko jubilee click water an anti freeze fixed after our visit and no other problems greetings from Scotland 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Looking forward to you tackling this job.
check the disptick for sludge at the bottom - much better to check head gasket!
I’d sell Chemmy, you’ve got too many cars and Miss Hubnut could drive Myrtle once she’s back
my exact thoughts
I guess Mr. Hubnut already sold too many cars Miss Hubnut liked.
In the big picture it might be better quality of life for him to keep this one :-)
You're not far wrong Ga Rage...
The things we do for love ;-)
@@HubNut As you know so well ALL cars have problems so selling and replacing won't save you from that. So the question is if the car otherwise serves well and is satisfying then invest in it.
Some cars you have had a long time others you quickly dispose of, and wisely so. Chemmy looks like a keeper to me from across the Atlantic 🙂
Ian I should try some K seal in the cooling system before taking things apart. It’s worked a treat on a few of my previous cars…
Could it be sucking coolant into the engine, causing the white smoke? The engine could be fine!
I reckon you could fix the Daihatsu, you’re very knowledgeable mr hubnut, it’s worth fixing I’d say.
One thing I can vouch for as I've been down the same road , families with young children involved totally buggers up trying to work or tinker on a car let alone a fleet of them
Repairing an engine of a £190 car will never be economically viable but this is HubNut where we don't do sensible things so by all means, go fix Chemmy! 😄 I would recommend though, to make some physical and mental room first, get rid of the Sana (even when that means it will be collected for free) and dismantle the bad Oltcit. It works so much better when there is room both in your head and your workspace and taking a car apart is the best way to get to know the car with the least amount of stress (if you break something, it was a broken car anyway!)
Hey Mr H. I used to own one of these Daihatsu charade L251. But she was hit from behind and written off. I have some brand new spare parts like water pump, spark plugs, brake discs and pads AND... a BMC high flow cotton air filter which is washable and reusable. If you are interested let me know 😊👍
Inlet manifold leak and smoke, linked together? It may fix the problem.
Have u done compression test or leak down test will tell u if its ring or valves
Id say its valve stem issue
i love it when you do jobs, always learn something. At least its the summer and she got u thro winter
What about that Scrapyard Sirion engine about 3 weeks ago direct swap no?
No. That was a 1.3-litre four cylinder, which won't fit this car.
There are some very good gasket goos now if the manifold gasket proves costly or hard to obtain.
The chain parts stores on this side of the pond take oil, antifreeze, and such for recycling. Tried Halfords? I do not recommend honing cylinders with the block in the car. Besides being a miserable experience, how do you deploy the large amounts of soap and hot water needed to get all the honing grit out of the bores? If memory serves, you have an engine hoist, at least you did down by the tracks. The engine has to come out. I would have a good engine waiting so I only had to do it once....
Why hone the bores? Would a stepped compression ring and new oil control rings (designed for old engines) work just as well and for a reasonable time?
@@mbak7801 The face of the rings and the bore surface need to work out their microscopic differences to seal properly. If the bores are left as is and new rings installed, the rings won't seal to the bores and you'll have a worse oil burner than it already is.
Honing gives the bore a new, slightly abrasive surface so the rings can make it all shiny again and seal. It also doesn't remove enough material to worry about....
These engines do get smoky with mileage but keep an eye on the coolant and oil and they just seem to go on and on normally just oil stem seals and guides but people normally just run these in to the ground so don’t get them serviced or repaired just scrapped them when they ware out.
It has happened so often to me now that I totally expect a new issue to arise when I've just fixed something else on a car. Bloody typical.
It is called "planned obsolescence".
Yes, before you mentioned it the thought crossed my mind that maybe you should do the engine rebuild while you're at it. This is, after all, an inportant car, it's ideal for frontline service and very practical. I certainly wouldn't want to scrap it, far too good for that. If it was rotten it would be an entirely different matter but this one looks good and solid.
I mean, yeah it's a lot of messing about but I wouldn't think it'll be an expensive job.
I have a Charade. Unfortunately the engine warning light has come on. Though I have had the sensor replaced the engine warning light is still on. Any ideas on why this is so and can this be reset?
Oh boy! I wish I could give you an answer Ian. I've tried both ways, work with what you've got and swapping for another. I think I would go for repairing the one in the car. At least you know where you're starting from. However, I would do the whole thing, rings an'all. Belt and braces sort of solution. You will feel a complete numpty if you don't and it still smokes afterwards. Don't know if that helps much really.
Also put in new shell bearings for the big ends. They may or may not need changing but will probably give better oil pressure if they are a little bit worn. OK a bit of a bodge but they are (or at least were) cheap enough.
I love this car, easiest car to work on. I replaced the rings on this car without removing the engine. Ideal for city driving, great fuel saver.
You need to get rid of all the scrap motors to save cash towards the impending house purchase ?
A replacement engine might be easier than stripping yours BUT i would if it was me go for the lower milage ones, i used to do similar with metros years ago buying cars with trashed gearboxes then doing a full swap with salvaged ones
Unrealistic to think a £190 car is a bad purchase. Probably get the same on a £500 Charade. Just fix it, they are brilliant machines.
Why is there coolant in the inlet manifold ?
Hot air fuel mix produces a less efficient burn, so some manufacturers run coolant through it to regulate the temperature so fueling can be optimised (though I’m not sure charades do actually have this system) maybe a head gasket issue
I have a soft spot in my heart for Chimmy.Any car that greets you with Happy has to be good. The best cars I ever had were the inexpensive ones.
I always mix the coolant with the used oil and take it to the tip, oil filters go in the bin. If the powers that be make disposal impossible them more fool them.
Those Daihatsu 3-cylinders are notorious for their valve stem seals and rings going. Both my L701 Cuores did it around 70k
Could ask your local garage that you're friendly with regarding disposal of coolant.
Surely they have a disposal network for all their fluids and other hazardous consumables?
Scotty has a slightly loose front wheel bearing. Early days at the moment. With it not being a driven wheel, I think I can live with it for a while. May take the whole hub assembly off Whisky.
Some real tinkering ahead. Such fun, well for us watching it will be. Lol
The inlet manifold wont be able to leak coolant, Unless there is anything else like a thermostat near the area. The head gasket is the only option. With the smoke its a full rebuild, new engine or just scrap it.
or just bang some k seal in and drive it until its done for
I would love to see you pop the head off and revamp rings and have the valve guides sorted. In principle an easy job which I have done several times on old cars. It seems the old days of 75 or so lb ft torque for cylinder head bolts are truly gone. Now it is a lower number of Nm (the force required to accelerate 1Kg mass at 1 metre per second per second applied at 1metre from the axis where the force is applied (what a crap system)) followed by cranking bolts repeatedly through 90 or 180 degrees or more (all depends on the engine). Much more complicated and the sight of people cranking hard on a 3 foot long bar a really horrible sight. I am afraid your love of 'no more than finger tight' would just not work.
As others said... I think that Chemmy is a keeper.
For the problem... Probably I would buy an used engine as a temporary solution.
Then, bit by bit, you should consider in repairing it with the precious help of Miss HubNut..
Probably better working with what you have rather than take a risk with another engine, looking forward to what's to come.
I really think you should sell the Daihatsu and concentrate on Myrtle. Most likely the inlet manifold gaskets are just rubber o rings ...easy to replace but then it still needs stem seals.....big job.
I agree that this would be a good project car.
Have Miss HubNut make a list 📃 of parts needed for a rebuild, barring unforeseen circumstances. And this would be a project you both could work on, barring Miss HubNut'S job.
Scrapping this solves nothing, I'm of the same mindset this, meaning Chemmie, can be saved, and should be!
You're right about other engines. They may have the same problem and you don't know the history of them either. An engine rebuild is more expensive but you get peace of mind.
Run a purple 💜 charade as my daily. Love it, £30 of fuel lasts 5-6 weeks, £30 ved and insurance less than £200 a year.
This is probably a dumb question, but what is the reason why you can't collect the coolant that's now in the car, keep it in a Very Big Bottle, and then put it back in when you've rebuilt the engine?
That's not actually a bad shout. It looks in pretty good condition and is the later type coolant.
Just do the engine for her (ms Hubnut ) she seems like she loves that car so it doesn’t matter what it’s worth etc. It’s worth to her, I’ve got the same dilemma with some on my fleet but I like them if I spend on them more than they are worth, it doesn’t matter as long as I enjoy them afterwards, some will,cost thousands 😩 Good video🙂👍
Absolutely love this car! I’m in the middle of sticking loads of speakers in the matiz 😂 😂 will have to send a little video!
Brilliant video Ian 👍
Old coolant, surely the local garage has an address or is willing to take it in?
As you have the manuals for the charade, could you not do a bit of light bedtime reading and see if the manifold has any cooling channels before committing to pulling it apart? I know, not very hubnut 😁
Hi great up date, get it fixed it will make a great little car
If you find it is likely the head gasket/ seals and you decide the expensive/ effort of a proper repair isn't justified on such a cheap car, you could do a lot worse than try a can of "K-Seal" in the coolant.
Poor Chemmy. I'm still amazed by how good she is for under £200 so it's worth spending a bit of time and money on her. As many have said, you could buy a more expensive and still have to do work so stick with the one you know if she's fixable.
I'd say the same with the C5.
Can you PLEASE centralise that front numberplate Ian before my OCD goes into overdrive 😫 its 1am and I cant sleep knowing its that off centre
Design fault - it can't be central or it blocks the radiator air intake...
I would either do the following
- Find a rebuilt crate engine for Chemmy or if it not too expensive, have the current engine rebuilt.
- Sell the car off and find a suitable replacement
I wouldn't just replace the intake gasket and then pull it off again when you need to reco the engine. It will be far too costly and effort having to do the same job multiple times.
Just my two cent
There is an exponential scale where each added vehicle increases the amount of hassle by a factor of ten. With ten vehicles on the go, you are well up this scale!
Feels like it!
Hi do you have a pdf repair manual for this car that you can possibly share with me please
Sadly not.
@@HubNut thank you
You need to hone the bores if you are replacing the rings.
Would be nice to save the daihatsu.
I'd try and source another engine and swap it. It's a tiny and very manageable thing by the looks of it. As many have said, it looks like a valve stem issue and although that's not massively difficult to sort, it does involve a lot more tinkering and may lead to further unwanted discoveries about the valves themselves and their sealing etc. An engine swap would be safer, easier and more procedural to do, I think. :)
I would hold off on the worst purchase ever bit considering the 2 garage queens in the back of the garage. Give it some love and it will pay you back in relatively trouble free miles.
Ha! Fair point.
It’s not economically worth it BUT if it keeps the missus happy AND provides lots of great content then it’s a winner!
With a replacement engine, you could at least get any gaskets and seals fitted while it's outside of the engine bay versus trying to do it in the space available... :)
Indeed. Plus timing belt, water pump etc.
Yep, either way it seems it'll be an engine-out "adventure", so may as well grab an engine of it's cheap enough...
@@twocvbloke It will be cheap enough for a reason.