Extruded Aluminum Overhead Cabinet Framing - DIY Sprinter camper van
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- This video details the methods and materials I used to attach an extruded aluminum upper cabinet frame to the ceiling of my Sprinter van. See our complete write-up with all parts used here: ourkaravan.com...
If the store does not work, here are the direct product links:
Half-profile used behind the headliner: amzn.to/32Qz9ga
80/20 3-slot framing (97" long--mine are 112"): amzn.to/2QIxovR
80/20 2-slot framing (97" long--mine are 112"): amzn.to/3gMsHvB
Bolts to attach extrusion to fiberglass angles: amzn.to/2CwNFur
Slide-in T-nuts: amzn.to/34NPdC1
5/16" x 1-3/4" bolts to go through lower angles and spacer: amzn.to/2ENIn4P
Roll-in T-nuts to attach angle brackets into wall-mounted profile: amzn.to/32L14OA
Optional anchor fasteners (if you want hidden fasteners): amzn.to/2Gpgawk
Structural Fiberglass: www.mcmaster.c... (Part number 8542K62)
PVC rod used as spacers: amzn.to/31NeBWM
Threaded PlusNut: amzn.to/3lI9Y8v
Tools used:
Milling bit: www.homedepot....
Headliner cutter: amzn.to/2Hwz71B
Non-Ferrous saw blade (for a 10" miter saw): amzn.to/2ZIcX8g
Ball Hex Keys: amzn.to/2EPotEK
Website: ourkaravan.com
Instagram: our.karavan
Note: This video contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. Please know we only promote products we actually use and believe in.
Not sure how you do it. Family responsibilities, work, building a professional grade rv, you tube tutorials. You are gold standard, Ken.
Finally! I've been looking for someone who worked with the original factory headliner. This is so helpful. Thank you!
When I originally seen the video I couldn't hear the sound since there was much surrounding activity art my location; but later seen & heard the audio then found my questions were already answered by the video; sincerely appreciative for a whole much effort of experances given, I thank you Very Much!
Best looking, most clean & solid van interior build on youtube.
Another great installment in the Sprinter build series.
Your work is brilliant. Well thought out, and equally well-executed. Meticulous attention to detail.
Great as always Ken! Probably more attention to detail than any pro van builder.
Very impressive and clean...
You're ability to figure stuff out is incredible. I wish I had the patience and understanding as you.
It's a skill I definitely learned for this project, as I had never built anything of real substance before. Take your time and you too will get exactly what you want in the end. I really appreciate the comment.
I just watched this video again, actually studies again. Love all the details. Looking forward to see the next one.
Great to see the progression of the build Ken.
Another awesome job Ken. I love the details and never would’ve thought about the fiberglass L bracket to minimize heat transfer.
very cool design, nice attention to detail. WELL DONE!
Very fine work. An excellent choice of material.
Nice work as usual. Not having to lubricate when milling is nice!
Hi Ken! We’re really liking your videos and learning a lot about van build. We just got a new 2021 Sprinter cargo van but unfortunately it didn’t come with the factory headliner nor factory floor. The headliner has a very clean look and I wish we can purchase them separately. Thank you for sharing these van build how-to’s. 👍
My van actually did not come with the headliner…I found out about them after I ordered my van. I was able to find one used on the sprinter forums for $150. You might also try some of the upfitters as they often remove them when they do full builds.
Thank you for the kind words!
@@ourkaravan thank you!
Excellent. I’ve been looking forward to this portion of the build. Well researched and planned. Great overall progress, considering you only get about 1 weekend a month to actually do the build. You should consider doing a live feed, question and answer section with the donation option.
Great stuff as usual! I'm thinking of duplicating your electrical system for my Four Wheel truck camper. Great stuff, Light Weight, Small Package and well thought out. In the future, you could build any one of these components (Cabinets, Electrical Starter Kits, etc) and sell them - I'm sure! I know you are very busy at this point with limited time due to circumstances. Thanks for sharing your build!
Beautifully explained, so grateful to have found your channel. Love your craftsmanship!
Thanks again!
Great videos! Who the heck gives a thumbs down to that? Guess haters gonna hate. I did some bed risers in our van with 82/20 great stuff hoping to get more advanced to do some benches and cabinets. So great job Ken your videos are a wealth of information! The Master Sergeant guives you 2 thumbs up!
"Hater's gonna hate," that pretty much describes the whole ecosystem on youtube, haha. Thank you for the kind words! I have a write up on the overheads coming in the next couple of weeks on ourkaravan.com, if you're interested.
Great Job, I couldn't find any video of those curved corner ceiling skin panels, Thanks again!!
The curved ceiling panel is a factory headliner that I bought second-hand for my van. It was just one less thing to have to fabricate.
Thanks for the note Sir, most of van conversions through UA-cam is about using wood for interior ceiling but you made a wise approach in my opinion not using wood all over the van, extrusion profile are the best. Thanks again!
Thanks, it all comes down to personal choice. Some like their vans to look like a cabin but I prefer the OEM upholstered look. That's the nice thing about building our own stuff, we can make it exactly how we want it!
9:00 great to hear how to avoid thermal bridging.
Du très joli travail merci de nous le faire partager. À bientôt !
Beautiful job thanks to share. See you soon.
That is exactly what i ve been looking for my van built! Freaking awesome those aluminum profiles! Thanks for sharing!
It's as fun to work with as an erector set. Love it.
I love the plusnuts, you've used. Great video.
Van Williams
Nice job. I'm a little bit ahead of you on my Sprinter build ,,,damm it's too late. I like the clean industrial look, so I went with all aluminum cabinets from RB Components for both upper and lower cabinets. I really like the extruded aluminum system you used so maybe next time. For the bunk area and to support the cabinets, I TIG welded aluminum angle. 125 by 3". I used 3/8 by 16 Plus nuts to tie onto the walls, floor, and ceiling. I also like your use of the factory head liner. My van is a cargo model so no included liner. I sprayed Lizard skin ceramic and sound deadening added SPRAY foam and blue jeans before installing white aluminum ceiling panels also from RB Components. I can't wait for your next vlog.
kenetube you can go to Instagram see murraymample for Sprinter 4x4 pictures.
I used Lizard skin thermal and sound control too on my other van but I added it in the exterior then lightly sanded it down smooth and then painted it. Talk about quiet. I plan to Lizard skjn the interior too.
Very professional job
Awesome video that details George's concept! I am curious what the advantage of the the half-profile framed against the van wall vs using longer PVC spacers mounted direct to the wall? Is it to disperse the load, and, if so, couldn't you just use flat aluminum (or fiberglass) stock between the longer spacers and the van wall?
Cheers, S.
Great video!! Using this method to hang storage shelves in my low top. 👍
Kenetube's stuff is great! I'm planning on doing a low top and would appreciate if you post some of your work.
Your videos are excellent. Love the attention to detail. Very informative. Cheers
WOW. Love your videos. Great explanation and ideas. Would love to use that kind of construction in my Volkswagen T6.
Thank you. Wish we could get the T6 here in the States!
Once again ... AWESOME! Thank you for the update!
I work in hardwoods and some metals. Recently a project required an end mill use in my Austrian boring machine in walnut for a half miter key lock from England. End mills should be sharp and cut the metal or wood cleanly and with no chatter (uneven cutting with excess vibration). One Korean brand (low pricing) of tool steel (not carbide) had a dull end edge on the two flute and side flute edges were same dull edge-not good. Beware of the low price in tooling. I live close to the US office for the Korean brand and the engineer they called forth to talk to me about the dull edges gave a sweet BS paragraph that end mill video makers said was typical BS. The supplier, when I called back to get a return form, went ahead and canceled the order and gave me credit for the purchase without telling me so and I waited 4 days for the form. Costing me time and almost ruining the walnut. Regal tooling in norther Illinois is a good source using one of their distributors. End mills should be so razor sharp that they will cut your finger easily. I run the end mills at 1500 rpm with no problems.
Very helpful, thank you for writing that out. My end mill was a semi-cheap one and while it worked okay, I’m sure a really good one would get the tolerances exact.
Just amazing work. Truly beautiful.
nice work no doubt. the only thing i would recommend would be to use an 80/20 distributor, we are much cheaper than most on amazon.
It really depends. My first purchase was from Fastenal and I think you heard how that turned out. They ordered the wrong profile in the wrong color and wouldn't give me my money back because it was a custom order. I gave it all away and lost out there. On several occasions I received quotes from 80/20 distributors, 80/20 itself and after shipping was considered, I was still better off with Amazon. But I encourage everyone to price shop and do what's best for them. Use of my links is appreciated but only when it makes sense to do so.
Great idea with the magnet to catch the shavings! If only I thought of that months ago... I just published my video making plywood overhead cabinets incase anyone wants alternative ideas.
Thanks! I just wish we could get 80/20 over here...
When you cut the 8.5 degree, what is the thickness of the cut?
Doing a marathon of you videos, awesome, awesome, awesome! You mention a builder named George who has a nice van. Any links to his stuff? If you like his stuff, I am sure it is worth checking out. I have the same design taste as you and am trying to see other DIY builds that have a professional, non cabin looking build. Thanks!
If you search sprinter-source.com for "layout plan" you'll find George's build thread. He has done really nice work. Thank you for the kind words!
Nice to see you again brother,
I love it.. excellent work.. I did it in a different way but almost 5he same concept but easier with minimum amount of aluminum.
How are you doing and what about your lovely angle... God bless you my friend always and forever
Beautiful quality work! Great job!
nice work, ill use this as a guide for my build. cheers!
Fantastic ! Great job and great information.
Thank you!
Interested in how you inset the plywood flooring and cabinet end face pieces. One question is how you minimized rattling.
Hi Ken, great effort yet again! I was wondering if you have any thoughts in hanging anything off the bottom channel? I'd be tempted to create a removable hammock(child bed) for the rear depending on the use of space at the rear. You've also got me thinking about those hanging kitchen accessory you get in the likes of IKEA that all run on a rail like the dish draining rack etc. You could mount a handy fire extinguisher off it at the end where you have that gap to the drivers seat and a fire blanket. Having had t25 for years and as I'm the cook in our van I always like things handy. So think these cupboards you are building will be your most used. I think with our 3yr old now I'm going to steal all your ideas for my van, the next one, when I buy it the t5's days are numbered. Well done with your build!
Great shop practice.
You got yourself a sub! Beautiful work, inspired!
Awesome, thank you and welcome to the channel!
Great video Ken! Thumbs up.
Great work! Thank you for sharing!
Looking good
great work.
Thank you for the very helpful video. How strong are the fiberglass angle brackets compared to aluminum ones?
Not sure I can provide that specification but the fiberglass is plenty strong for this application.
Is there a reason why you went with a single length profile the whole length of the van versus just using several pieces? Strength or cost effectiveness? Great work!
You could certainly go multiple pieces, especially if you wanted the cabinet to change depth. I didn’t have any real reason to go with different lengths. And thank you!
Nice work, as always. I do wonder if using 1/4” ply for the bottom will be sufficiently strong if you place heavy items inside the cabinets. I realize it’s a small span, but I could envision the plywood deforming over time. Then again, I have a tendency to overbuild things. 😃 I look forward to the next installment. Cheers!
kenetube I would use some 1/2” (or thereabouts) ply and route the edge as you’ve described. I’d place the rabbet at the top, as that should help prevent the ply from delaminating along the edge (probably not likely, regardless, but if you can go either way from a design perspective, I think having the rabbet on top is best).
You could always use some wood batton running across the width at regular distances. You wouldn't even need to screw it, decent wood glue is as strong as the wood, so that would work fine. Although as a test, if you cut a length of it the right width and supported it either side, I would put money on it that you could stand on it without it moving, decent ply is very strong.
Nice work by the way, you are making it look easy! Mostly because you are clearly taking your time, doing it properly - its going to be great.
I'm planning on mounting 1/4" ply to angle brackets so it's flush with the bottom of the extrusion and gluing another 1/4" ply with the brackets cut from that. With large mud washers and enough brackets the bottom ply might be sufficiently strong and the second will prevent sagging.
They will. I'm not too bothered by that myself. I'm planning on building cut outs so stuff that i'm putting in mine won't rattle onto each other. And I think my overheads are way smaller than yours. And not full length either. Just above the galley for pot and pans, bowls, plates and the like.
Which size profile are you using? I'm about to order extrusions for a custom solar panel roof rack for my Jeep and a mini-camper interior using a lot of the ideas you've shared. I'm leaning toward the 25 series metric as I can get black smooth cheaper than the 10 series. Your 80/20 build videos have been by far the most useful that I've found - love the drawer system components and mounting tips. Thank you for sharing all your hard work!
kenetube thanks for getting back so quick - I did order a couple of short 15 series pieces to look at and would use them if I had a larger space. The back of the jeep (2009 4 door wrangler with the larger rear seat section removed) is more like a small 2 person backpacking tent so the scale of the 10/25 series seems to fit better ;). I'm no videographer but I'll try to get something up once the build starts coming along - although there are a lot of "overland" jeep setups out there no one I've seen has done anything quite like what I'm going for. Cheers and thanks again!
Greta videos! Thanks for sharing all the details. The plusnut you picked has a grip range of .020-.280". The sprinter van sheet metal (at lease for BOW) has a thickness of 0.032" thickness. Just wondering your thoughts on picking the next grip size: 0.280-0.500".
Thank you! You will want to stick with the 0.020+ as the sheetmetal thickness does not fall within the range of the larger plusnut you mentioned. -Ken
also you do have video of you attaching the doors and shelves on the upper cabinets?
What are you planning to use and how will you attach the walls of the cabinets?
Not sure if you got around to insulating above the liner just installed? or decided not to.
Nice work.
At least it looks like you can remove it as one piece. Not too much back tracking.
Could you include some links for the hinges and latches that you used on the cabinet doors, please?
Sure thing! ourkaravan.com/attaching-cabinet-hardware-to-8020/
It’s looking very sweet. What is the insulation? Black backing and white under?
great tutorial!
Thank you!
Is there a reason you decided on the anchor connector instead of an inside corner connector? I know the inside corner connectors are a bit more spendy- but they require no milling so with my lack of skill I am thinking it may be a safer route for me. Any major disadvantages to them that made you opt for the anchors instead?
Hey I'm using your guide for my upper cabinet. Thank you so much for the really great write up on your website and this video! I have a question about 1/4" plywood inset into the channels for the cabinet floors. The channel seems to be about 3/8" wide. Does your 1/4" plywood rattle around a lot in there? Have you done anything to keep it from bouncing around as you drive like a gasket or something? Or did cutting it to the exact right dimensions to slide in prevent any rattle already?
Sorry for the delay in responding. As you state, the 1/4" alone is loose enough to rattle. By accident I found that the anti-slip mat I use inside the cabinet floor to keep things in place is the perfect thickness to wedge between the slot of the 80/20 and the plywood floor. Been that way for 4 years now without a rattle. -Ken
@@ourkaravan so awesome. I saw that in the pics and had considered it. Good to know that's what you did. I'll get some. Thanks for the reply.
You’re welcome, good luck. 👍
Using the factory hole in the rib for the overhead attachments, do you recall what depth of cabinet you ended up with? I'm wanting to have my rear cabinets around 12" deep, but have the cabinets over the galley only about 9" deep. So my overhead extrusions will be off set. I suppose if things don't line up with a factory hole, I could just drill a new hole for the plus nut.
wow very nice work !!!!!!!!
Did you use any drill lube when milling? If not, were you able to finish your work with the same bit? Any chatter on your finished work? Thanks!
I did use drill lube to reduce heat, chatter and increase bit life. I did still get some chatter and the milling isn’t as precise as the ones done by 80/20 for my galley kit, but they work just fine. Someone commented earlier that they used a 3/4” bit instead of 13/16” bit and the milling was perfect, apparently.
I'm sure you have said it somewhere but specifically what latch hardware did you use. Manufacturer and model number. I looked but could not find where you mentioned it. Also, you mentioned that a friend made the counter top. It looks like he used ApplePly to glue the laminate top to, is that correct and what thickness? Thanks
I'm not sure I quite understand how you deal with that 8.5 degree variance on your walls. It looks like you're going straight through an angle bracket and your cut spacer into a t-nut - is that t-nut rotating that 8.5 degrees within the rail to accomodate a straight threading of the bolt coming through? You mention it's a roll-in t-nut so is that what makes this work? All this stuff is built to be straight angles so introducing a little variance with a puck cut out of PVC doesn't seem workable to me. Thanks!
Correct; the t-nut basically absorbs the angle in the aluminum channel.
Thank you for confirming! Your videos have been very helpful.
I watched this years ago and came back to get a look at your build since I recently decided to change my layout. I was planning to have a horizontal Murphy Bed framed with 80/20, fastened to the deck/bulkhead but am considering instead to mount it as high as possible. It seems your cabinet frame would work nicely for my bed. This would allow room for several items below the stowed bed to be used during the day. Given your experience with your cabinets do you know of any showstoppers regarding my idea?
I'm having a little trouble envisioning it, but as long as you are spreading the load out across several cross members, you should be good. The material is plenty strong, just be sure to use appropriately-sized fasteners as well.
HuangXingQing
- Your murphy bed idea sounds great. Will you be doing a video on it?
Sweet build! Your videos are the most detailed and helpful. I was curious at which RPM are you running your drill press to counterbore for the anchor fasteners?
I was wondering the same thing. My bit jumps around like crazy and occasionally bites too much. I started out at about 400 RPM and went up to about 900. Faster seems better, but I don't know if my small drill press is just not as stable as it needs to be or it's still not turning fast enough.
@@muvybuf1 I'm not 100% sure but I think I was running mine at 940 RPM. I think ideally it would be faster but the next step up in speed on my drill press is too fast.
very nice...thanks
I have a 2019 Sprinter 4x4 passenger van, which comes with headliners.will the instruction work for the same car?
thanks.
From what I understand the only thing that has changed is the color of the headliner. So you should be good!
Great videos. You made me a believer and I will be trying these on my own. I looked but could not find... Are you using 10 series or 15 series aluminum. If you are using both, what are your considerations and where are you using which grade
Once you go 80/20 you never go back! Here's an article I wrote to address your question: ourkaravan.com/8020-extruded-aluminum-van-cabinets/
Let me know if you have any other questions! In short, I much prefer the 15 series. -Ken
What tool did you use to measure the angle of the roof and the wall in order to cut the spacers?
I used an angle finder and a plumb bob
I ordered the PlusNuts from the link you included. They did not come with the install tool that you used. Do you have a different link to that tool so I can order? thanks
Can't wait to see your final van. Hope you can convert my van. Please start a business.
Nice and clean but why not use 10 series 1x1 for space savings, it's more than strong enough.
Hi, I discuss that preference here: ourkaravan.com/8020-extruded-aluminum-van-cabinets/
Whom supplies these alum extresions and other associated parts?
Were you ever an air traffic controller. I ask since you say "correction"
Not that I know of. Perhaps I watch a bit too much steveo1kinevo on UA-cam. ;)
Thank you Ken!! I learn SO much from your videos & use a great deal of your creative ideas & techniques - we are pretty close in our executions & I am also a single Dad with a daughter & also use my unfinished van as much as I can. I download your videos to refer to them on my iPad frame by frame while working on my Sprinter & attempt to source from your links so there is a few well deserved $ coming back your way). Since you have not been back on the Overheads for a bit (& I am adopting your bold move with the Anchor Fasteners) I had a question: what are you thinking to do close the exposed end of rails around 18:22 in your video (since the Anchor Fastener does takes care of pretty much everything else). I looked at the 80-20 Part#2030GRA end caps which will do the job, but definitely fall short of the artful execution which has become your "standard". Thank you again, Ranger
Simple solution I overlooked by obsessing about looking a the bare cut end of the rail & assumed you would be inserting a panel in the track (because you switched to Anchor Fastners but realize now you will cap the entire end of the cabinet & likely do that with the counter unit too. Getting spoiled & lazy by your "tutorials", thanks for the patience in your response. Texas is home for now & travels focus on West, primarily the mountain states (in summer to get away from the heat, winter to ski) with forays up into British Columbia. It would be great to connect at some point so I'd look forward to your itinerary on the chance we could cross paths. I have thought a few times that I would like to share some of my own executed ideas on the chance it would be helpful to you. My MO tends to be "if I can think of it, it can be done" which gets pretty creative but does drag out my build process. Thanks again!
kenetube No luck under the About tab - takes me to what looks like a reference your Gmail account - just a simple profile with a pic with you on a Zip line but no Gmail address field. I can save your profile as a Gmail Contact but when I try to create an email the email address field is blank from the saved profile - this all using my gmail account to initiate from.
kenetube got it - just responded
Hey Ken. Was up until 3am diving into your videos last night. Pretty tired today, ha. Thanks for such great detailed videos! I used some of your ideas for my previous build. Mostly for the insulation and basic build items. In my next build I'd like to be a lot lighter and more modular. I'll likely do very similar things that you have. I'd like to replicate the Adventure Wagon L-Track concept on the walls/ceilings and also do L-Track on the floors. With that said, do you know of a way to attach the 8020 galley and uppers cabinets to the L-Track? Is there a certain product that would do that nicely? And, would it be safe? Thanks for your help!!!
Hi Kyle, super simple-you can attach angle brackets to the 80/20 then secure it to the L-track. I’ve seen it done a number of times and it makes for a very modular approach. Thanks for the kind words and welcome to the van build rabbit hole. 😀
@@ourkaravan would you hang uppers off L Track? Directly to riv-nuts in the beams sound better but I want to try to avoid a hole in my paneling.
You’ll probably have to drill holes whether you go the L track route or otherwise. L track is a perfectly acceptable way to do it though.
Why is so important to collect all metal shaving inside walls? Just wondering..
The metal shavings will start rusting almost immediately and when they come into contact with the metal of the van, that will rust too. It’s amazing how quickly that happens.
This is awesome. Can I borrow your garage to build mine??
I like that aluminum is lightweight (also non ferrous) . I get bummed out thinking about all the mods I want to do when I eventually get a sprinter if it's going to be heavy. If and when I get around to it I'll be going for a lightweight solution for anything and everything. Are you keeping track of how much weight you're adding to the van? Would be cool to know before and after weigh-in.
kenetube I'm dreaming of Towing a jet ski and a dirt bike and a canoe or kayak. I fantasize about a trailer that will hold all three. That's where all the weight I want to carry would be. I think it's possible to Fab up a mount for all three. Could start out with a Jet Ski trailer and weld on extra bracing...hmmm
Wow, so helpful to actually see it being built and explained. Just can't visualize how easy it is just looking at George's. Thanks! Your videos are invaluable.
You've sold me on the factory headliner!! Is it the same part numbers for both the crew and passenger van? I have a 2014 170 cargo and I'm trying to order. Since that's not a part associated with my vehicle, they asked me if I had a VIN for a 2014 170 passenger or crew. Can you believe they asked me that? How did you order yours?
As far as I know there is only one headliner for each wheelbase. My headliner came from a 144 passenger van, which I installed in my 144 cargo. The only difference is the passenger van has a switch on the first dome light, where as the cargos come wired with the switch at the rear of the van. I moved the switch to the front like a passenger van.
I found my headliner used on sprinter source forums. The going rate is about $150 and I do see them pop up every couple of months.
Did you look into just ordering the 8020 already milled for the anchor fasteners?
Can you let us know the Amazon retailer that you used for the 8020? Assuming that was preferable to ordering direct from 8020
How do you get the milled holes so perfectly sized? I have the same bit and have bolted my drill press to a solid table which is in turn secured to the wall of the garage, and clamped everything down using a similar 8020 channel that you are using (thanks for the idea!) and still the drilling shakes so much that the resulting hole is much bigger than the anchor fastener. Did you have any trouble with this during your build and how did you resolve? Thanks for a great channel!
It may be the drill press, to some extent. I use drill lube to reduce chatter, and plunge slowly, both of which help. That said when I received a prototype of our galley kit from the machinist, I realized their anchor fastener bores are tighter.
Someone else commented that they used a 3/4” end mill bit (instead of a 13/16”) and they found the bore was perfect, after accounting for drill chatter. I might try that next time, but results may vary.
@@ourkaravan I tried the 3/4" end mill bit and it was too small. I do not recommend.
@@poperry Good to know, thanks for reporting back.
Can you post a link to those hinges you used for your galley cabinet doors please
Unfortunately the product is out of stock on Amazon. Here's the part number: Blum 71T7500D It's widely available online. -Ken
I would like to know the cost of 80/20 for this build. Thx.
I talk about cost in this article: ourkaravan.com/8020-cost-and-weight/
There are cheaper ways to build it, but for all the advantages I would still use it again if I were starting over.
If you could, what is the measurement of the "track" or groove in the 80/20?
80/20 has the full specs on their website. I'd look there as it will no doubt be more accurate than I can measure.
Yikes, just double checking my math here, but it looks like it cost $400+ just for the (4) long horizontal 8020 pieces??
kenetube - thx for the reply, ideally I’d like to go the whole wall like you did, 9ft? Would it potentially be more cost effective to join two independent 54” sections? Can you also share the horizontal/vertical section lengths you used (height/width from the headliner)? $400 all in isn’t bad. Please keep these videos coming.. you’re one hell of an inspiration and giving me tons of ideas.
What is the cost of the factory headliner?
Good afternoon
What’s the name of the aluminum material at Amazon? I couldn’t find them. Thanks
Hi, I would recommend briefly reading through this: ourkaravan.com/8020-extruded-aluminum-van-cabinets/. It discusses the best way to order.
Great work Ken! How long are your 5/16" bolts that go through the body of the van and into the half bar?
Yikes, I can't remember precisely. Because there's a 1/4" backing plate inside the wall and I normally use 3/4" long bolts, I'm guessing I used either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" bolts through the walls.
What size drill bit did you use for the plus nuts?
Hi Ken, can you share the link of the LED lights? Thank.
I'm almost embarrassed to admit how much they cost. About $85 each. They are i2 Systems, brand Apeiron is the model. I spent the money because all of the cheap LED stuff around my house is going-out on a weekly basis. Didn't want that on the van. They are the same lights that high-end yachts and van builders use.
Does it actually work catching aluminum chips with a magnet? just courious...
Nope, the magnet is to catch the metal shavings from the hole that is drilled though the van sidewall.
@@ourkaravan ahhh that makes a lot more sence, Aluminium chips shouldnt rust either, i was bit confused ^^ Ty for the quick answer!!
Are you building a van or a friggin Space Shuttle? I appreciate the work and detail, but damn. Most DIYers don't have access to this kind of machinery or tools.
Like most DIY videos, this simply provides an alternative option for people. There are plenty of builds out there utilizing all wood or even Ikea and plastic bins. I wanted something different and thought some would appreciate the alternative materials.
@@ourkaravan Thanks for raising the bar for what regular people can do.
What material did you use for the beveled spacers?
Hi there, how did you get the oem dome light eight the switch in the middle wired?
My van is a cargo van and thus the switch was at the back of the van. I cut the 4 pin plug off the back one, extended the wiring up to the front and soldered the 4 pin connector back on.