8 days for you - 8 weeks for me. I really like how you freely admit to your mistakes and how to improve upon the design. More youtube videos should do that to show how the whole process of invention and design really works.
Nice overview. I doubt I'll ever build a bandsaw, but I've learned so much about them and the ones I have from watching you build them. Very informative, thanks for what you do! -Caleb Harris
Thanks for this, Matthias. I'm one of the many who bought your plans, and my band saw has been working nicely for the last 18 months - though I'm sure it doesn't get used as fraction as much as yours does. I use a 1/3HP motor, which has proved adequate for what I do. The bandsaw is a great tool, and I get genuine pleasure from using it. I was originally using a skate bearing, edge-on (not side-on) for the upper thrust guide, but quite apart from any noise, I found I was getting through bearings at a merry pace. The edge of the saw blade would wear slots in them, which I never understood, as they still appeared to rotate easily, then finally, they would heat up and seize - so I did something different. I got some 2mm brass plate and bent it to cover the upper guide block, so the vertical part is the thrust block for the saw blade, and the horizontal part has a securing screw through it. It has outlasted, I would say, at least two ball bearings. It has a slight slot worn into it by the blade, but it's still working fine, and when time comes to change it, it will be a simple operation. It is positioned a fraction behind the blade, so the blade only comes into contact with it when there is a bit of pressure against it. Oh - and it doesn't make any noise. I have heard you mention a few times, that you built your saws to accommodate a standard size of blade. When I came to order mine, I found that I can order any length. The supplier (in the North of England) buys them as a continuous strip, then cuts and welds them for a specified length. I bought four blades of different width and TPI.
Your build time for the frame sounds about right. I am a day and a half into building and gluing the frame. One more session should get the whole thing glued up.
This series has been quite inspiring. My 9" benchtop bandsaw just has not been holding up. I don't need a 20", but you've certainly shown a lot to consider in building a bigger one for myself.
What are you going to make the base of? Does it need to be heavy, like, say, a block of concrete? (maybe not if you still want to disassemble it and carry up and down) Thanks for answering those other questions, by the way.
all your episode of 20 inch bandsaw I had watched .about blade guide I was confused. and I also feel akward design but seeing this video I am satisfied. because I have your 16 inch bandsaw build from your project. it still works great.thanks great for 16 inch design. 20 inch is also very good. 1 horse power is optimum for resawing and for jigsawing work.once again thanks.
Good explanation of the things that went wrong and how you fixed them. I enjoyed it. May I make a recommendation: if you have time, could you do a walk-through of your plans. Thanks.
Matthias, Thanks for answering the questions! Many of which I had also. And very much appreciate you pointing out the problems and that you fixed them in the plans. All of your bandsaws (and those built by others using your plans) run quieter than manufactured ones! I'm going to be old and grey before you build a drill press aren't I? Maybe even have passed on - haha! Aren't you working on a whole new project? Hello to wife and baby!
The problem with building a drill press (from wood, which is what we really expect from Matthias) is that most wood types are too flexible. He used wood because it's easier to work with and pound for pound stronger but for plain rigidity metals usually win. When considering a drill press you really need a very rigid frame so that it does not deform under load. If you watch his video where he compares his wood clamps to those of John Heis you can see the deformation in practice. Clamps and drill presses have basically the same shape and load case too so it's quite comparable. If the structure deforms the angle you drill won't be 90 degrees to the object anymore, but also it means that the angle changes per unit force so you cannot easily compensate by tilting the base plate.
Yes. Matthias writes: "The cheapest way to get the parts to build a drill press is to buy a new drill press and take the parts from it. But then, you could just use the drill press as it is. Hand drills are not rigid enough to be suitable, and a quality hand drill that might be suitable will cost more than a cheap small drill press." (woodgears.ca/faq/ )
Thanks for posting videos! I follow you on UA-cam and have learned a TON of knowledge about woodworking. I’m a beginner and need all the help I can get. Thanks!
Hey Matthias, Have you considered using a manual exposure for video that you plan on speeding up / making a time lapse of? You would eliminate a lot of the bright / dark fluctuations you see in the first few minutes of this video.
Thank you Matthias for building another bigger bandsaw and showing your wins and recoveries along the way. After spending time building your 16" bandsaw, watching many videos, and studying your plans for hours I have gone from assembler to well versed builder of bandsaws. At least as far a comprehension is concerned. I love your design. I love how my saw is looking. I can't wait to use my 16" to build another bandsaw with greater ease. Please keep up the great work. Consider this, what if you used your pantorouter and screw advance box jig to make a frame from laminated boards, then cut to final shape on the 20" bandsaw? Maybe a small bandsaw, or something like that. My point is, you usually show how to build something with simple tools so we can see how to build it with simple tools too. But what if we built some of your tools to build all the rest? What order might you build them in next?
Matthias Wandel , I have put some thought into your saws smoothness. I think that perhaps because the saw has so much bulk and the wheels utilize such varied material, that once the wheels are balanced, you have virtually eliminated resonant frequency. By laminating the frame and gluing the table and sub-table together you have imbued a great deal of vibrational dampening. Without a single inherent resonant frequency the saw just doesn't lend itself to vibration. Just a theory, maybe you have some more input?
Take a look at Le Tonkinois varnish. It's a no VOC boatbuilding varnish that can be used in confined spaces with no special precautions. It's the official varnish of the French Navy and can be made to look nice too.
Dear Matthias, in the video you mention that the 3/4hp motor is enough to power the bandsaw. The motor looks not too small for 3/4hp so i assume it can handle quite some overload without stalling. Have you ever connected a power meter while doing a cut?
Always a toss-up between using old junk and new (timber, that is) The time spent cleaning up old wood to make it useable vs. the cost of buying new. Of course, if you already have all the toys required to turn a packing crate into the Taj Mahal, then it isn't an issue. Nicely done, Sir! :)
Can you cut the lower blade guide blocks to taper down and away into/near a possible exhaust port where a vac could be attached to minimize build-up inside? I think it could be done considering the tight tolerances of your machine.
Now that you have 3 sizes, what do you recommend for a first band saw size? I think a 20" would be overkill at first, but should I go as big as I can afford or spend more on a smaller 14". Love your videos!
On the 8th day an Ikea table realized the destructive power of the Big Green. .It longed for it's previous safe residence leaning against a dumpster. ...His bandsaw plans are cheap and well worth the purchase!
I built the 16" version a couple years ago. The plans where easy to follow and resulted in a nice tool. I wonder how many Matthias' designed bandsaws exist in the world.
It's an odd unit, but it's much better than using watts. Because when somebody says they have an "800 watt motor", that doesn't distinguish between power consumption and output power. Horsepower is always output power. So I prefer to use horsepower, because, ironically, it's less ambiguous than watts.
actually the wattage you see on the label of an industrial motor is the output power. If you want to know the input power you have to multiply the voltage, current and "active power factor" (don't know the correct english word for that) given on the label.
This might be a silly question, but what in your setup allows you to cut curves like that? My little bench bandsaw really doesn't like cutting more then a straight line.
those thin blades for the benchtop saws are terrible at cutting curves. Get a real 1/4" blade (for a 14" bandsaw or bigger). Mind you, those thiker blades can't be used on the smaller bandsaws - the smaller wheel radius kills thicker blades from metal fatigue.
Matthias Wandel Thank you for the reply! I purchased the plans for this saw when they came out and hopefully won't have to worry about my small benchtop much longer.
@Matthias, great work as always, I'm pretty new to enjoying the medium of wood and "Wood working" but love all the videos you produce and give me alot of inspiration... even tho' I'm ...really bad... at the moment, but learning. cheers Mike in OZ
I have no experience with guide block type bandsaws, only having used roller bearing types. What do I need to know to convert my existing bandsaw to guide blocks, to try them out? For example, what kind of materials can you use? Do they need to be free to move into the blade, or should they be fixed in place? And probably other stuff I haven't thought of.
Hey, Matthias Don't you get confused sometimes which tool does what? I mean, from a perspective, they could all be just green and probably the same thing.
you mentioned a band saw blade guide link, but I don't see one... willing to share hear? I'd love to watch it. Having problems with blade guides on a used band saw...
I have a vision of Matthias' shop in 20 years. Stuffed with green bandsaws with only enough room to squeeze between them. :-) But of course by then his daughter will be old enough to have a shop of her own, and at least one will go there.
Matthias - I have the plans for the 20" bandsaw. What would prevent me from simply extending the frame and buying a longer blade to get greater resaw capacity? I realize that the enclosure would have to be altered, and that the frame might require some fortification, but what concerns would you have about the upper blade guide? I assume that a longer blade would not require significantly greater power, though milling larger material would. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Okay we're limited by tooth count and beam strength, and well as saw power. With your 1.25" sawmill blade, you were resawing a 12 inch log with a 1/3hp motor, so I assume that with a 2hp motor, you could exceed that by some amount, assuming you could provide adequate blade tension. I have an effectively inexhaustible supply of 12" to 20" fallen oak, and would love to take advantage of some of the larger stuff, much of which has very interesting grain and spalting. The recent almost-hurricane in central Florida put down at least a half-dozen 60+ year-old oak, and even on a mild year we lose a tree or two.
In one of your earliest band saw videos you used MDF for wheels. You said you were going to "see if it would work". You didn't mention your conclusion at the end. What is your opinion of MDF as a wheel material? I've made V-belt pulleys out of it and it seemed to work well.
Hi Matthias, I bought the plans last week and I have a question on blade speed, where on I couldn't find an answer in documentation yet. How fast do you think the blades should run? I can get an 1410 min-1 motor and want to know, wheather I have to adjust the size of the pulley wheel. Thanks for answer!
Matthias Wandel How about doing a three wheeler with a much bigger blade? Say a breadth of ¾" to 1" and 4-6 tpi. Run at high speed, a blade like that (I would know that as a 'skiptooth' blade) will slice through green or seasoned timber at a truly frightening rate, but it's great fun!
Hi @Matthias, Good job for the built, design, explainations, video take and so on : the full package as usual 👌🏻👏🏻👍🏻💪🏻 You often talk about power, how about rpm? I often see motors with range of 1500 rpm or like 2000-3000, shall I prefer one compare to others?
Grate work as always matthias. I was wondering, will you ever built a big tablesaw? the Format Tablesaw by AW Productions seams to be realy cool. And btw, what do you think about sliding table saws?
I was going to build your other bandsaw this spring. Now that the plans for this one are out, is there any substantive difference between the two other than the size?
main problem with pallet wood is it's too thin. And by the time you have it planed smooth, you will need new planer blades. Might be cheaper to buy new wood.
Regarding the motor and HP: like Matthias said, 1/3 HP is quite plenty for usual bandsaw jobs. Consider the momentum of the wheels and blade when the motor has reached it's operating speed, it's quite a lot of momentum and a puny piece of wood has very little effect on that unless you really jam it in there (ladies...) with force and purposefully trying to stall it. A sharp blade probably helps quite a bit as well..
I think people are thinking about using plywood because they dont have a thickness planer and it's hard to find straight boards and easier to find straight plywood. Maybe you should consider making some stiffness tests with plywood just to see what amount of plywood will have the same stiffness as your softwood frame.
8 days for you - 8 weeks for me. I really like how you freely admit to your mistakes and how to improve upon the design. More youtube videos should do that to show how the whole process of invention and design really works.
Nice overview. I doubt I'll ever build a bandsaw, but I've learned so much about them and the ones I have from watching you build them. Very informative, thanks for what you do!
-Caleb Harris
Thanks for this, Matthias. I'm one of the many who bought your plans, and my band saw has been working nicely for the last 18 months - though I'm sure it doesn't get used as fraction as much as yours does. I use a 1/3HP motor, which has proved adequate for what I do. The bandsaw is a great tool, and I get genuine pleasure from using it.
I was originally using a skate bearing, edge-on (not side-on) for the upper thrust guide, but quite apart from any noise, I found I was getting through bearings at a merry pace. The edge of the saw blade would wear slots in them, which I never understood, as they still appeared to rotate easily, then finally, they would heat up and seize - so I did something different. I got some 2mm brass plate and bent it to cover the upper guide block, so the vertical part is the thrust block for the saw blade, and the horizontal part has a securing screw through it. It has outlasted, I would say, at least two ball bearings. It has a slight slot worn into it by the blade, but it's still working fine, and when time comes to change it, it will be a simple operation. It is positioned a fraction behind the blade, so the blade only comes into contact with it when there is a bit of pressure against it. Oh - and it doesn't make any noise.
I have heard you mention a few times, that you built your saws to accommodate a standard size of blade. When I came to order mine, I found that I can order any length. The supplier (in the North of England) buys them as a continuous strip, then cuts and welds them for a specified length. I bought four blades of different width and TPI.
The most I can build is flat pack furniture but your videos help me unwind after a long day at work :)
Great series Matthias! Thanks for sharing your bandsaw construction with us.
I'll probably never build this but I think I'll buy your plans to show some support. Really enjoy your videos and not being buried by a millions ads.
Your build time for the frame sounds about right. I am a day and a half into building and gluing the frame. One more session should get the whole thing glued up.
My dad installed a winch into our linen closet when he decided to get a bunch of new equipment for his basement shop. Worked pretty well!
This series has been quite inspiring. My 9" benchtop bandsaw just has not been holding up. I don't need a 20", but you've certainly shown a lot to consider in building a bigger one for myself.
Kudos for pointing out your mistakes. That's integrity! Awesome build!
As usual, outstanding! Getting more cutting hight is a really good thing.
I only subscribe to two channels on UA-cam, this being one. I think the "question answering" part is GREAT!! Thank you, great video!
Awesome bandsaw project. I can't wait to get a bigger one for my workshop.
What are you going to make the base of? Does it need to be heavy, like, say, a block of concrete? (maybe not if you still want to disassemble it and carry up and down)
Thanks for answering those other questions, by the way.
hi Matthias. U r my mentor for woodworking projects
Very nice Matthias!!!! I have watched all your videos and you still impress me bud!!!
all your episode of 20 inch bandsaw I had watched .about blade guide I was confused. and I also feel akward design but seeing this video I am satisfied. because I have your 16 inch bandsaw build from your project. it still works great.thanks great for 16 inch design. 20 inch is also very good. 1 horse power is optimum for resawing and for jigsawing work.once again thanks.
Good explanation of the things that went wrong and how you fixed them. I enjoyed it. May I make a recommendation: if you have time, could you do a walk-through of your plans. Thanks.
Matthias, Thanks for answering the questions! Many of which I had also. And very much appreciate you pointing out the problems and that you fixed them in the plans. All of your bandsaws (and those built by others using your plans) run quieter than manufactured ones!
I'm going to be old and grey before you build a drill press aren't I? Maybe even have passed on - haha!
Aren't you working on a whole new project? Hello to wife and baby!
The problem with building a drill press (from wood, which is what we really expect from Matthias) is that most wood types are too flexible. He used wood because it's easier to work with and pound for pound stronger but for plain rigidity metals usually win. When considering a drill press you really need a very rigid frame so that it does not deform under load. If you watch his video where he compares his wood clamps to those of John Heis you can see the deformation in practice. Clamps and drill presses have basically the same shape and load case too so it's quite comparable. If the structure deforms the angle you drill won't be 90 degrees to the object anymore, but also it means that the angle changes per unit force so you cannot easily compensate by tilting the base plate.
Yes. Matthias writes: "The cheapest way to get the parts to build a drill press is to buy a new drill press and take the parts from it. But then, you could just use the drill press as it is.
Hand drills are not rigid enough to be suitable, and a quality hand drill that might be suitable will cost more than a cheap small drill press."
(woodgears.ca/faq/ )
impressed with your screwdriver. what is the brand and type? thank you
Thanks for posting videos! I follow you on UA-cam and have learned a TON of knowledge about woodworking. I’m a beginner and need all the help I can get. Thanks!
you have the best content on youtube
I like your work and how you explain it, it's a great pleasure to follow you though your videos. Thank you for sharing your amazing video
Hey Matthias,
Have you considered using a manual exposure for video that you plan on speeding up / making a time lapse of? You would eliminate a lot of the bright / dark fluctuations you see in the first few minutes of this video.
my camera doesn't have manual exposure
That explains it then :)
Is there a reason you ditched the metal cutting surface? (The white dryer door)
I only use it for logs
Thanks! Awesome videos 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you Matthias for building another bigger bandsaw and showing your wins and recoveries along the way. After spending time building your 16" bandsaw, watching many videos, and studying your plans for hours I have gone from assembler to well versed builder of bandsaws. At least as far a comprehension is concerned. I love your design. I love how my saw is looking. I can't wait to use my 16" to build another bandsaw with greater ease. Please keep up the great work.
Consider this, what if you used your pantorouter and screw advance box jig to make a frame from laminated boards, then cut to final shape on the 20" bandsaw? Maybe a small bandsaw, or something like that. My point is, you usually show how to build something with simple tools so we can see how to build it with simple tools too. But what if we built some of your tools to build all the rest? What order might you build them in next?
I try to make sure you don't need my fancy tools. But when I built the 16" bandsaw, and the 18" bandsaw, I used my screw advance box joint jig.
Matthias Wandel , I have put some thought into your saws smoothness. I think that perhaps because the saw has so much bulk and the wheels utilize such varied material, that once the wheels are balanced, you have virtually eliminated resonant frequency. By laminating the frame and gluing the table and sub-table together you have imbued a great deal of vibrational dampening. Without a single inherent resonant frequency the saw just doesn't lend itself to vibration. Just a theory, maybe you have some more input?
Your band saws have a really clean design.
Take a look at Le Tonkinois varnish. It's a no VOC boatbuilding varnish that can be used in confined spaces with no special precautions. It's the official varnish of the French Navy and can be made to look nice too.
Dear Matthias, in the video you mention that the 3/4hp motor is enough to power the bandsaw. The motor looks not too small for 3/4hp so i assume it can handle quite some overload without stalling. Have you ever connected a power meter while doing a cut?
"I need a 20 inch bandsaw to compensate" lmao
Always a toss-up between using old junk and new (timber, that is) The time spent cleaning up old wood to make it useable vs. the cost of buying new. Of course, if you already have all the toys required to turn a packing crate into the Taj Mahal, then it isn't an issue. Nicely done, Sir! :)
Yeah! A new Matt's video!
Can you cut the lower blade guide blocks to taper down and away into/near a possible exhaust port where a vac could be attached to minimize build-up inside? I think it could be done considering the tight tolerances of your machine.
You are amazing Matthias! Well done
It’s a great project. The base box just needs filling with sand for good stability.
You could do with an extension table for saw milling logs.
Looks great. But did you add some kind of dust collection system?
Now that you have 3 sizes, what do you recommend for a first band saw size? I think a 20" would be overkill at first, but should I go as big as I can afford or spend more on a smaller 14". Love your videos!
On the 8th day an Ikea table realized the destructive power of the Big Green. .It longed for it's previous safe residence leaning against a dumpster. ...His bandsaw plans are cheap and well worth the purchase!
when are you going to make ta tilting band saw?
I built the 16" version a couple years ago. The plans where easy to follow and resulted in a nice tool. I wonder how many Matthias' designed bandsaws exist in the world.
Roy Miller Ha, just bought them myself so hopefully soon another! Good name by the way
Matthias, have you decided on a color for the motor?
Green
I think I'll never get used to electric motors being rated in horsepower. American electricity meters aren't using horsepower-hours, are they?
swiss No, they use tenper which is 1:317.46 parts of a Franklin which is 745.69:1 of a metric horsepower
It's an odd unit, but it's much better than using watts. Because when somebody says they have an "800 watt motor", that doesn't distinguish between power consumption and output power. Horsepower is always output power. So I prefer to use horsepower, because, ironically, it's less ambiguous than watts.
actually the wattage you see on the label of an industrial motor is the output power.
If you want to know the input power you have to multiply the voltage, current and "active power factor" (don't know the correct english word for that) given on the label.
"metric" horsepower :D
It should probably be "torque power" but compared to the whole imperial system this is a nimiety.
Matt your a genius. I would love to build one of your bandsaws for myself but I just don't have the tools or skills. I love your vids. maybe one day.
This might be a silly question, but what in your setup allows you to cut curves like that? My little bench bandsaw really doesn't like cutting more then a straight line.
those thin blades for the benchtop saws are terrible at cutting curves. Get a real 1/4" blade (for a 14" bandsaw or bigger). Mind you, those thiker blades can't be used on the smaller bandsaws - the smaller wheel radius kills thicker blades from metal fatigue.
Matthias Wandel Thank you for the reply! I purchased the plans for this saw when they came out and hopefully won't have to worry about my small benchtop much longer.
@Matthias, great work as always, I'm pretty new to enjoying the medium of wood and "Wood working" but love all the videos you produce and give me alot of inspiration... even tho' I'm ...really bad... at the moment, but learning.
cheers
Mike in OZ
Hey Matthias, what type of ball bearings did you use for the shaft, i'm looking at buying some but there is such a range i'm not sure which to choose.
Cheap ones from a local surplus store
okay :) and thank you for your quick reply
Much humility; much beauty.
I look forward to getting these plans
Fine piece of engineering! Hat's off to you, sir!
So, have you reached the bandsaw saturation point in the shop yet?
Matthias avez-vous d'autres vidéos (sponsorisées) sur les autres outils Flexvolt dewalt,cette scie va servir pour faire sawindmill?
I have no experience with guide block type bandsaws, only having used roller bearing types. What do I need to know to convert my existing bandsaw to guide blocks, to try them out? For example, what kind of materials can you use? Do they need to be free to move into the blade, or should they be fixed in place? And probably other stuff I haven't thought of.
the guide blocks need to be fixed in place.
Hey, Matthias
Don't you get confused sometimes which tool does what?
I mean, from a perspective, they could all be just green and probably the same thing.
you mentioned a band saw blade guide link, but I don't see one... willing to share hear? I'd love to watch it. Having problems with blade guides on a used band saw...
oops. Fixed now.
you're doing great things Matthias
Thanks for the video. :)
I'm thinking about moving my tools and stuff to my basement.
I'm wondering about how big is your basement workshop?
see my website
Matthias Wandel :) I'm already on it :) just wanted to leave a comment too :)
20 inch is a nice size good work
I have a vision of Matthias' shop in 20 years. Stuffed with green bandsaws with only enough room to squeeze between them. :-) But of course by then his daughter will be old enough to have a shop of her own, and at least one will go there.
if you are reading this have a good day
that would rob a bank =D
Your mind continues to impress
Matthias - I have the plans for the 20" bandsaw. What would prevent me from simply extending the frame and buying a longer blade to get greater resaw capacity? I realize that the enclosure would have to be altered, and that the frame might require some fortification, but what concerns would you have about the upper blade guide? I assume that a longer blade would not require significantly greater power, though milling larger material would. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Nothing, but resawing really wide is really difficult. See my video on the physics of bandsaw resawing
Okay we're limited by tooth count and beam strength, and well as saw power. With your 1.25" sawmill blade, you were resawing a 12 inch log with a 1/3hp motor, so I assume that with a 2hp motor, you could exceed that by some amount, assuming you could provide adequate blade tension.
I have an effectively inexhaustible supply of 12" to 20" fallen oak, and would love to take advantage of some of the larger stuff, much of which has very interesting grain and spalting. The recent almost-hurricane in central Florida put down at least a half-dozen 60+ year-old oak, and even on a mild year we lose a tree or two.
Hey Matthias. Very nice combo : speed assembly + bandsaw FAQ :-)
In one of your earliest band saw videos you used MDF for wheels. You said you were going to "see if it would work". You didn't mention your conclusion at the end. What is your opinion of MDF as a wheel material? I've made V-belt pulleys out of it and it seemed to work well.
works well for bandsaw wheels
Matthias! Why don't you make holes in the pulleys to reduce their mass and facilitate efforts at start-up?
it's just another place for dust to get. Also, it's terrible plywood that I'm using.
Thank you very much, I learn a lot of technical matters from your explaination
Since adding the piece to the left end of the table, is it still able to be tilted a full 45 degrees?
yes
Beautiful saw! Thanks for answering all the questions.
You just keep on amazing me. Well done again sir.
Wow, you always manage to impress to such a high degree.
Also, at the time of my commenting, you have 909,999 subscribers!
Wood 'n' Stuff w/ Steve French same :D i think it got stuck
guess how much $$$$$$ he get from just a single plan a month.
Awesome project from start to finish!!! Thanks for sharing!!
Great build and detail as always. Thanks for all the great content !
Hi Matthias, I bought the plans last week and I have a question on blade speed, where on I couldn't find an answer in documentation yet. How fast do you think the blades should run? I can get an 1410 min-1 motor and want to know, wheather I have to adjust the size of the pulley wheel. Thanks for answer!
The blade should run at the speed you want it to run at. There's no "this is the speed all blades should run at"
Hey, you said not to use plywood for the frame, so which wood you recomanding? And does pine is better than plywood?
any wood other than plywood (or particle board or mdf)
You are a national treasure.
Would Radiata Pine be suitable for the frame?
great format!
Great job!
How big will you go?
Ideal bandsaw size = current bandsaw size+4", for all values < 36"
Matthias Wandel
How about doing a three wheeler with a much bigger blade? Say a breadth of ¾" to 1" and 4-6 tpi.
Run at high speed, a blade like that (I would know that as a 'skiptooth' blade) will slice through green or seasoned timber at a truly frightening rate, but it's great fun!
see my video on why 3-wheeled bandsaws suck
I like this style of video, cool way of explaining.
Great build, well done
Great project!
Hi @Matthias,
Good job for the built, design, explainations, video take and so on : the full package as usual 👌🏻👏🏻👍🏻💪🏻
You often talk about power, how about rpm? I often see motors with range of 1500 rpm or like 2000-3000, shall I prefer one compare to others?
At the end, what shall we aim/is a good compromise to aim for rotation speed of the wheel ?
Grate work as always matthias.
I was wondering, will you ever built a big tablesaw? the Format Tablesaw by AW Productions seams to be realy cool.
And btw, what do you think about sliding table saws?
If you could only have one size bandsaw which size would it be?
muy buen trabajo, felicitaciones.
I was going to build your other bandsaw this spring. Now that the plans for this one are out, is there any substantive difference between the two other than the size?
I refined the design a bit for this one, but it's all relatively minor differences.
Cameron Lienhart
I'm
Do your bandsaw plans come with the amount of materials needed?
yes
But using baltic birch plywood should be stronger as there is more plys?
still only half the wood has the grain in the right direction
If you have 1" ID bearings, and a 1" OD steel shaft, what do you do when they don't fit (too tight)?
sand the shaft down a little
Thanks. I was a dummy and bought a 1" OD shaft and 25mm ID bearings. I don't think that sanding will fix it. Time to order a 25mm shaft.
would it be overkill to trow a old 3 hp motor runing at 1250 rpm on a bandsaw of set type in the vid or would it matter what so ever ??
More power doesn't hurt, as long as you have the motor and the power hookup for it
okay nice then i migth just build one cus the old cas iron one i have has seen better day's
can you use reclaimed pallet wood for this build?
I don't think pallet wood is a really good material to use in this application, but I could be wrong.
main problem with pallet wood is it's too thin. And by the time you have it planed smooth, you will need new planer blades. Might be cheaper to buy new wood.
thanks for the answer!
question...can i use a motor from a washing machine? the one that spins to dry clothes?
Sure, as long as you know how to wire it up and put a pulley on it
Regarding the motor and HP: like Matthias said, 1/3 HP is quite plenty for usual bandsaw jobs. Consider the momentum of the wheels and blade when the motor has reached it's operating speed, it's quite a lot of momentum and a puny piece of wood has very little effect on that unless you really jam it in there (ladies...) with force and purposefully trying to stall it.
A sharp blade probably helps quite a bit as well..
Looking forward to the 22 inch bandsaw in 4 years time!
Nice bed hair Matthias.
Nice work! Thank you for sharing your skills.
How heavy is it assembled?
Abyssaljam lets gamble! the one that finds the exact weight, wins the bandsaw?! what do you think matthias?! :P
i say 83kg without the motor
COOL
I think it is awesome! Nice work!
Who makes that green paint and what is the name on the can?
supervdj The paint is Behr and the color code is on his website if you have time for a quick search.
I think people are thinking about using plywood because they dont have a thickness planer and it's hard to find straight boards and easier to find straight plywood. Maybe you should consider making some stiffness tests with plywood just to see what amount of plywood will have the same stiffness as your softwood frame.