Makita Tracksaw Cut Problems
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- For as long as I can remember I've had some minor cut problems with my Makita tracksaw. I decided to try a non-Makita blade and see what sort of results I could get. I went with a blade meant for a Festool TS55 which is just slightly smaller in diameter than the stock Makita blade which means your max depth of cut is decreased slightly. Totally worth it.
Don't bother with Festool, bought mine to cut 54mm fire doors, it really struggled. I saw this video on here ua-cam.com/video/cTDVELnKcGc/v-deo.html
I had the same problems. Stick with your Makita and get it set up straight. If you think about it how would the blade be able to cause that problem it it was cutting square!
Yep, rented a Festool 55 EBQ to cut 26mm (1inch) of oak and it was a horrible experience. It probably had bad alignment because it stalled constantly and burned the wood badly just like the video you linked.
You needed a new blade for sure but you also had a ton of flex while cutting. Watching it back the track moves . The wood your cutting moves as well. This is why clamping helped it, if you blade had been good that may have eliminated it. Anyway I feel your blade isn’t the core problem. You need a more stable work platform and don’t let your workpiece hang off as much.
Nice work on the video...that took some time to do.
I agree. I always clamp my Makita track to the piece I'm cutting. Also, blade cleaners work great in removing pitch that causes burning.
I found this video because I was having the same problem with my Makita tracksaw. From day one my saw did this same thing, and I use the factory clamps and a good work table. I feel that there's too much play between the grooves on the base of the saw and the ridge on the track. That is why when the torque is relieved at the end of the cut, the blade digs in- infuriating. I get better results with my Mag77 Skilsaw and a finish blade, maybe because more power. I've decided to sell my tracksaw and return to the old school.
@@shelter7214 Probably a bit late, but you just needed to adjust your saw's toe in.
I dont believe the blade is your problem. I recently got a cordless Kaita track saw and my blade has hit the edge of my guiderail on one end, and I have got some cuts like yours, that little spot on the end. I didnt realize it until I watched another video, Makita has the 2 adjusters to tighten your saw on the track. When you run the front one off the end of a track, the saw moves either way a little. You need to make sure that little adjuster stays on the track to keep it stable.
I would be willing to bet that the saw blade is not parallel with the track. The burning and the nip at the end of your cut makes me think that the blade is angle outward and the back of the blade is forced against the cut which would cause the burning. This would also explain the nip in the would at the end of your cut.
I think you’re right. Another commenter mentioned there are some on the bottom to adjust the toe-in of the blade. I just haven’t had a chance to try that out.
Makita blade 6.5 inches where as festool is 160 mm .... really?
Seems silly, but yeah. That's what they went with.
I see two potential problems that COULD cause such issues. First, if the track itself is bowed in the horizontal plane (curved), it will cause the saw to start binding as it travels the arc of the curve. This is a common problem with ALL track saw brands - including Makita, Festool, etc. - not all tracks are straight due to manufacturer tolerances in the extrusion. Get a long straight edge and check the part of the track that the saw travels on, NOT the edge of the track.
Another problem could be runout - either the arbor or the blade, or both. The fact that it improved with a new blade BUT you still get it occasionally could indicate you have some arbor runout which was compounded by a slightly warped blade. Change the blade, and you are left with the slight arbor runout.
It COULD be a combination of all three as well.
When I bought my Makita, I bought 2 55" rails. One rail was fine, but one was bowed ever so slightly (about .03" at the center). Rather than return/exchange the rail, I got another straight 55" rail, and cut the bowed rail to make a short rail for shorter items (like the 39" rail).
Great tips! Thanks!
For many or even most, user technique influences the straightness of the cut with a tracksaw, just as it does with any miter saw. If you push the saw from the side, rather than from behind, you will pull the saw and track slightly out of straight. Happens more often with the longer rails than the shorter. Same with sliding miter saw. If you don't pull down and run the saw head from behind and straight, your arm position will throw the saw blade off and your cuts will just slightly off.
Hi there, have read all the comments as I have a new Makita and am disappointed that the cut edge was showing burn marks, especially with Melamine. The offcut side was great. I found the cut to be accurate but the burning is unacceptable. The saw is also hard to push through the cut. From what I have read, it appears that my blade alignment is slightly toeing out, which makes the back part of the blade rub, creating the burning.
There is nothing in the manual to show how to align the base with the blade, but I now understand that the four (4) screws under the base enable me to correctly align the blade. The question is: should it be exactly parallel or slightly toe-in. If toe-in, how much, and how is this measured?
I'm very happy with the saw apart from this problem. Perhaps it is just trial and error adjustment. Perhaps I can fully plunge the blade, butt the edge of the blade against a straight edge of a board and mark the off side where the base touches the board, then measure with a vernier caliper.
I have heard that a toe-in of 0.1mm is the way to go. Certainly a very small measurement to verify alignment.
Makita don't seem to recognise the problem. I am very interested in views on my comment. Cheers from Queensland Australia.
definitely a blade run out problem
ua-cam.com/video/EmEuA8TnMbc/v-deo.html
A couple of tips. Tape up the hole in the middle of the guard this improves the dust extraction. When it comes time to replace the rubber edge on the rail use the Festool replacement as they're clear also the Makita slide pieces on the top will wear the base of the saw out so again get the festool ones. The Makita tracks feel stronger to me than the Festool. The best track sizes are 2x3m tracks. Cut one down to 1600mm. This gives you the best sizes for standard sheets.
Thanks for the tips!
You mean, the sliding strips damage the base of the saw? Wow. Do you recommend to replace them immediately with festool ones?
@@atexnik yes. My original corded one had groves from them. It takes a while for them to be noticeable.
I was having the same problem but at the front of the cut. I was not extending the track far enough in front of the wood being cut so both the front and back grooves were sitting on the track going into the cut. Make sure your track extends well past the end of the cut so the saw rides completely on the rail after finishing. If the front of the saw runs out of track prior to finishing, you will get that indent. you need more track after the cut than you think, especially for thicker wood.
I’ll try that. Thanks!
This is one thing I don't get. You want to cut a 48 inch sheet, so the track is only 55 inches. Barely enough to get the snuggers on, but not enough to drive the blade into the cut without having to plunge into it first. festool the same way. who decided this dumb minimum lengths of track.
I think I might have an answer to this problem. On the underside of the baseplate are some adjustment screws. One allows oyu to set the 'resting position' of the saw to ensure cuts are truly perpendicular. If you adjust this you need to also adjust the degree marker. The other screws allow you to set the toe-in of the blade. Basically, track saws are designed so that the front of the blade is cutting slightly into the work surface, and the rear of the blade is away from the good side of the cut. If you have your blade set exactly parallel you tend to get burning. Festool tracksaws also have some slight toe-in. Adjusting the toe-in might solve these problems, since I had exactly the same issues as you and it seemed to work for me.
I'll try that. Thanks!
One vote to this opinion.
Could the toe in problem also lead to burning/binding and an inaccurate cut? I have recently found while crosscutting tabletops that the piece comes out slightly longer in the middle than on the two ends.
I'm not sure about the binding or burning, but for the length being longer in the middle of the cut than at the ends, I would guess your track is slightly curved in the middle towards the offcut side of the cut.
incorrect toe-in can absolutely lead to burning. Burning on the good side of the cut means you need to adjust the back of the blade away from the workpiece slightly.
In Europe the difference between this saw and the Ts55 is not 100$,its more like 300$
I had the same problem with my Tracksaw. Aufter a long time my blade wasn´t parallel to the track line so the end of the blade was pushing against the wood and make the burning marks and the uggly cut at the end. A little bit of adjustment and it was fine. A new blade is a good idea too but it deosn´t vanish the main problem. I had the same problem with the TS55 and Bosch GKT55.
I had the same problem with my ts75 burning Wood. What adjsutment you did please?
@@jakubchomistek3938 I've had the exact same problem since day one with this saw. I'm eagerly awaiting a reply as well.
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@@antoniopesca1 Thank you! I don't understand what he is saying but I understand the process.
Ha when i was looking i ended up getting the ts75 that saw is insane price difference was not as much as having to upgrade later and the 75mm depth is very convenient for cutting thick lumber
I've been looking at the ts75 recently. Just waiting to see if they come out with a new version since there seems to be so many new versions of the smaller saws.
The base plate is adjustable, with the four screws underneath, loosen them and get it parallel or a very small toe in with the blade. Same principle as getting a slot in a table saw parallel with the blade.
The blade is at a perfect 90 to the base plate already. 99% of the cut is flawless. It's just that last half inch that always has that little blade bite.
The groove in the saws base has to be PARALLEL to the blade, its nothing to do with the 90 degree adjustment. I had the same problem as you, until I adjusted the base from side to side, with the 4 screws underneath.
Try page 10, pdf www.baltopttorg.ru.sp6000-te
Ah, I see. I misunderstood what you meant. I'll take a look at that. Thanks for the tip!
@@pauljohn6709 is it also possible to change the 90 to the base plate? Because I just received the saw and for some reason it isn't perfectly 90%. also I get a bit of a small banana shape very slightly in my cuts. how do i fix that?
He tenido el mismo problema y se resuelve muy facil, la hoja no está vertical y se regula con los tornillos que a ese fin estan en la base.
I have had the same problem and it is solved very easily, the blade is not vertical and it is regulated with the screws that are in the base for that purpose.
just bought today my makita 36v track saw and loved it, I'm getting rid of ts55 festool
I just saw that saw at Home Depot the other day and was curious about how it performs. Sounds like it's a winner.
Festool is far better you’ll be a fool to get rid of it makita lol
@@elliotashurst3756 why is it better? Seems that everyone that uses festool just says that and has no explanation. When you open up a festool it's actually built with cheaper components and makita is still built with Japanese quality.
@@elliotashurst3756 ?
you serious !! Makita over festool , how many complaints have you had from customers ? do you work for Makita perhaps?. Mind you i am going for Mafell because of their rail track system.
Just stumbled across your video while checking reviews on the saws. I'm looking to bite the bullet soon on a TS purchase, and the Makita unit is my top choice, mainly for budget reasons. Not likely to be any F- brand tools in my shop anytime soon.
As far as the "nick" on the end of the board, I would bet it was due to a dull blade. On my table saw, many rips have been ruined at the tail end of the piece with the same "scar" . While making a beveled rip cut, I discovered (quite accidentally) the blade was deflecting away from the board during the bulk of the cut, then flexed back into place as the work piece cleared the blade, as the stress pushing the blade out of the way was relieved..
The problem is definitely not as bad since I bought a new blade, but I still get it a little bit. I’m thinking about trying to get a new Makita blade, clean up the original blade, and compare the two just to see what happens. There are some adjustments another commenter mentioned that I want to try as well.
I'm hoping to be done with my current projects in about a month or so and then give these ideas a try. Either way, a track saw is a great addition to the shop especially if you use a lot of sheet goods.
If you haven't purchased it yet, look at the Bosch track saw.. Axeminster in the UK sells them for a great price. Also low shipping fee if you're in the US. I have the Makita and while I think it's a great saw, I probably would have gone with the Bosch if it was available at the time.
Thanks to the comments about the blade to base alignment in comment section of this video. They helped me figure out what was going on with my brand new 40 volt saw. Straight out of the box the blade to rail slot alignment was out .030 of an inch with the back of the blade closer to the rail. Thank god I'm a tool maker and have the tools needed to precisely measure and adjust this saw base to get it to cut the way it was designed to. It's a shame the QC department let this one get out the door like this. I almost sent this Makita back and get the Festool.
Oh, when I cut material I always have the whole piece supported. I wonder if this will help not having the end but chip away. Perhaps slow down a little as you are reaching the end? I guess you have made many cuts.
Ronald Martens I think I’ve tried that, but I’ll double check.
Sawdust is Life Or just don’t go all the way so the rear of the blade doesn’t do this. It’s definitely a strange anomaly. It seems like the old blade might be flexing after all the torque on the blade releases. Did you notice if the black strip on the guide rail is also getting damaged? Is it from the blade or is it tear out/taking off a chunk at the end? That would mean that the blade is dull.
I'm professional, 22 years experience with Festool and Makita. Makita work perfect.
Makita works perfect if you know how to adjust the machine to the rail-guide. To change the saw blade it is not necessary to remove the cover.
I cut 40 mm. oak doors every days with Makita and I don't notice the difference to festool.
Festool is a little better, this is all.
And Mafell is a little better than Festool.
The rear regulator of the machine has to be inside the rail-guide when you start cutting.
The front regulator has to end inside the rail-guide when you finish the cut.
Makita has improved its regulators that are now much harder to turn to solve the problem of constantly adjusting. if you have that problem you must disassemble the regulator and find a way to make it harder.
How festool uses the plate system and does not go directly in the rotation of the regulator, it lacks this problem.
The saw blade must have the right number of teeth for the job you are doing. The quality of the saw blade is as important as the quality of the machine.
Makita is not the problem.
I know it’s not necessary to remove the cover, but it’s easier that way.
You don't have to take the cover off to remove blade it has a blue depth holder on the back side of blade cover plunge your saw and move the blue ring so the metal spigot can engage the notch this holds the blade screw at the window in the front side of blade cover.
I know. I just find this way to be easier.
I have the Makita Track Saw and have not seen the problem you show in this video. My Makita has performed perfectly.
I imagine most people haven't experienced this problem. That's why it has been so perplexing.
So your only problem with the saw...was a crappy blade.............
No, even with the new blade there is still an extra little dig on the last inch or so of the cut.
Consider checking for toe in of the blade to base..
I had the ts55. Didn't give enough credibility to the reviews about it that the motors in them tend to go bad quickly. 3 months out of warranty, for a saw that was used, on average, once or twice a month... I went with Makita to replace the ts55...
Looks like rubbing on the back of the blade, as if the blade is not parallel to the track
The problem is that the blade was torqued and when most of the blade clears the wood, it pops back into an untorqued position and the back of your blade takes the corner chunk out
How to prevent the torque?
The screws are not actually phillips head screws...they are JIS screws (Japaneese Industry Standard) using a phillips screwdriver will eventually damage the screw heads....
Interesting. I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!
Somebody lives in Utah County. Good place that Timberline Tools.
Good eye! Timberline is my favorite place to blow money in Utah County, well, besides the kolache place in Provo.
@@BitsandWood kolache...thats the little place on center next to thepawn shop that runs out about 12 seconds after they open right? I have heard good things. Never been able to make it in time.
Yeah, it is. I have to take my high schoolers to school early and I usually drop by after that, right after they open so there is usually a wide selection. Saturday's are always nearly impossible with the long lines after 8am unless you wait till about 11:30, but by then the selection is quite reduced.
Another solution is to buy Festool or Mafell 😊😊
True 🙂
That's not a solution, that's giving up.
This is getting ridiculous. I am trying to figure out which track saw to buy by watching a lot of reviews on youtube. And it is so mixed, there are people out there that have a makita that wish for a TS 55 and there are people with a TS 55 that wish for a makita or a mafell. I have come to the conclusion that unfortunately there doesn't exist a perfect tracksaw. Every track saw on the market still has flaws. Even the mafell has it's flaws in my opinion. I don't understand why manufacturers can't figure it out. It's really not that difficult, if I can figure it out what's wrong with it, why can't their engineers?
I agree. If there is a perfect tracks, I haven't found it yet.
Today, we use Makita's track saw for a cutting effect display, you can see that the cut out of the cut has no burst edge and no cracking, so our kunlun tooth diamond saw blade, installed on the track saw can do not burst edge
I don't usually run my saw past the board that far and it looks like its more wander after passing through because the track is pivoting from past mess ups my self
I've tried only going just to where the center point of the blade if even with the end of the board and I get the same thing. It's way better now though no matter where I stop the saw.
Sawdust is Life I'll be trying the other blade as well, getting ready to buy a third 55" track and cut it to make a couple smaller ones next
I want to do that too. I have two 55" tracks but I slipped and gouged one of them. When I can get a third track, I'm going to cut my damaged track into two sections.
Sawdust is Life haha I ordered the long one and it got damaged in shipping, they called me and sent it back before I could stop them amazon was going to let me keep it and send me another:) FYI
I get a better cut by starting the saw outside the material and going past. I also cut over a sacrificial board.
1:10 stupid idea. the riving knife will show you next time ;)
2:15 this is totally wrong. it must be maximum of 3mm AND beeing PULLED!
🤣
@BitsandWood when you make the bevel cut, does it cut into your splinter strip further than when you do a 90° cut or does it cut on precisely the same line? That could be the reason for all the tear out on the top of the workpiece.
Not sure but I'm going to check. It's time to replace the splinter strips on these tracks anyway.
Change the blade with fine teeth. Okay you changed the blade. Always buy quality blades and those suited to the job
I "downgraded" from the festool to the dsp601 as I needed cordless and I'm already on the makita battery platform. Got to say I don't notice the difference really, my only gripe is with the depth gauge being a screw rather than a positive stop on each marking
Maybe I'm lame with this, but... The teeth of the blade shouldn't bite in the wood? As based on the current installation of the blade, the direction of the rotation is reverse than to what would be expected. I noticed that the saw dust extraction is in the back, which means, the teeth are going backwards instead forward. What if the blade would have to be flipped?
The blade direction is correct for a circular saw.
I love it. Theres so many opinions regarding these saws. So many experts. X being an unknown quanity and a spurt is a drip under pressure. This ones good, this ones no good, this and thats a danger and vice versa. May the best cut win🤡
You don't need remove 5 screws for changing blade. Do You see the window in cover? That why i think You are not good mechanic
I’m well aware of that. I find this way to be easier. Also, I don’t care what kind of mechanic you think I am.
Timberline is my local store too!
I love that place. I was just there a week or two ago for their Fall sale or whatever they call it. I stop and look at the SawStops every time I go there. One of these days! 🙂
Have the TS55, it’s got its challenges. Sounds like the Makita has a bigger blade and a little stronger motor. Would like to compare both somehow.
That would be a fun experiment!
Good god, you just try dragging me out of that shop!
Did you say an extra $100.00 for festool? And you didn’t get it? Come on man. You could have had an awesome tool and without any issues.😊
Nobody’s perfect. 😉
Not sure where he was shopping but the best price I've seen on the Festool TS55 (WITHOUT A TRACK) is around $200 more than the Makita. Throw in a 55" track and it's another ~$150.
I think your blade is under tension and bending or out of toe/true or even a shimmy. that kick appears to be where the blade is springing back IMO. you can hear it in the video, I usually notice it with table saws
have a look at the triton branded blades probably on ebay, they do a good 60t or a neg rake 48t nice and cheap.
that said the 165mm was chosen because it is a standard circ saw blade size so you should have been offered one of those.
another thing is maybe don't go all the way off the work, once the work is cut relax the blade and stop
Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a shot.
What ewer y cut solid wood or ply , ed a piece , the same hight of wood y hawe to cut , fasten it with a clamp to ending surface of wood , end y will have a nice , clean end of a cut !
Yes this is the answer! I have seen this on the makita and festool track saws when the track adjustments have the front of the saw pointing away from the track (to the right) . The blade is climbing away from the track and bending under that tension. To prove this is the case, loosen the track "slop" thumb screws and as you push through the cut, rotate the front of the saw in to the track (to the left).
You’re cutting with the wrong blade. Isn’t the saw.
The blade is fine. Had the same problem with the previous blade. It is the saw.
I"m getting a similar chip at the end of the cut. People in the comments keep mentioning adjusting the blade (parallel to track). But I can't find any videos actually showing how to do this. Does anyone know of any such video?
The blade replacement doesn’t require removing the cover. Sometimes men apparently should read the manual. 😊
I’m aware. This way is easier.
@@BitsandWood I also take the cover off, as it is easier and I like to see what is happening behind the cover. I also know that you don't have to, but as an engineer, I do it anyway. Maybe Intercity134 has a video clip he /she can direct us us to regarding other tips and tricks and how to get the best out of the Makita Plunge Saw. Cheers mate...
My Makita plunge saw seems to bind/burn when I'm cutting 1 1/2" MDF.. the blade is brand new pretty much with the correct Arbour and I use clamps on the track is that just too thick of a stock for the saw to handle does anyone know?
Why is the saw blade changed this way? There is also an easier way to grow it.🤔🤔
There is a different way to change the blade without removing the cover, but I find this method easier.
I had a Makita Circular saw I could never keep in proper adjustment with the baseplate. I ended up getting a Skilsaw mag wormdrive and I never had the issue again. Btw, anyone want to buy a Makita sidewinder?
Skip Brewer
For framing the skil worm is a beast
I grew up with sidewinders but aren't a big fan anymore. I'll ask around for you though🍻
I'd kinda like to get that giant saw that Skil makes. The Sawsquatch I think? I'd like to make a DIY track for it to use for cutting slabs I mill.
Sounds like you got a bad blade to start with or damaged it some how. Makita blades are very high quality in my experience. In fact prefer them on my miter saws because theirs has right rake for miter saws.
One of these days I'm going to do more testing with the old and new blade as well as see if I can adjust the toe-in just a little bit. Just gotta find the time...
I think your saw plate and blade are not parallel. You still had a chipped edge. It's like having a sliding mitre saw with the back fence out of square.
I think you may be right. I need to try adjusting that.
@@BitsandWood Actually I mean it's like having a sliding mitre saw blade and the rails are not parallel. If you look on the bottom of your Makita plunge saw there are 4 screws. I think if you loosen them, you can realign your plate. Haven't tried but that's where I'd start. You can check for parallel if you place your saw on the track, push the saw down, and put a straight edge on the blade. Distance should be the same on both ends. Also, to avoid chipping at the end of your cut, I often clamp a sacrificial piece of wood.
@@frenchyroastify I have done it with a sacrificial piece and there are no problems with the cut when I do it that way. I just usually forget to clamp a sacrificial piece. 🙂
I'm having trouble with making cuts with the two rails connected. It gets completely stuck at the plates where they mend. There is zero lip, so I can't figure it out
i find the makita track saw I have not at all accurate , it keeps going out a bit which maybe due to how you push along the track and track is not straight either. Makita should be sold as a diy product. Stick to festool or mafell, in fact I will get in touch with you to make sure you have done this. If you have not done so then I will book you with a shrink therapy to help you see the light. :)
If you cut backwards into the edge where it blows out slighly score it then make your cut
A shallow backwards scoring cut will yield a pristine edge.
Great video I love my makita track saw
You are running the saw off the track. Use a track at least 12" longer at each end.
I've tried on smaller pieces with more track at the end and still had the same problem. I think it's an adjustment problem with my specific saw. I do have a new plywood project coming up soon that I'm going to try to adjust this with.
@@BitsandWood try stopping the saw before you raise the blade. Cut through to the end of the board with the front of the blade but then stop. Check to see if the trailing edge of the blade leaves a mark on the board cut. If so to may have to adjust the blade alignment. It should be exactly parallel to the track slot
@@Gold_Hunt_Australia I don’t think I’ve tried that yet. I’ll give it a whack and see what happens. 👍
Is it me or did anybody else see the way they plate on the bottom of the saw fit on the track ,look like it didn't fit very well in the middle of it was a Gap and on the far left side his left side I just don't think that's all it's worth it
Are you really satisfied with this ''improvement'', or are you just blind!!?!!
I can see well enough to see that your overuse of exclamation points needs some work. 😉
@@BitsandWood Well said mate. Most of us get a lot out of the comments of viewers, but get exactly nothing from bad criticism and abuse such as was levelled at you. Just a troll I think who has no experience in the use of a plunge saw. Keep up the good work, it helped me greatly. Cheers from Australia.
@@BitsandWood Yeah, i see you are concentrating on wrong details.
@@RADOMIRATA Lol, nope. Thanks though.
Maybe the old blade got punished at one point and one or a few of the teeth are sitting just out of alignment.
I wondered that at first too but I got similar results with a new blade. Another viewer mentioned an adjustment I wasn't aware of that I'm going to try and see if that improves things.
I have the same saw and don’t have that problem!? I like the Makita blades. My biggest problem is kick back when I get into a hurry.
I think it's a problem with my specific saw and not the design itself.
I've used the festool and the makita, the makita is a better saw.
Chris Ashton yep I agree
I agree, he is much lighter to handle! I cut the power cord off and ad a female C13 socket so I can change different machines with one cable.
Festool is way too expensive in my opinion (I am a carpenter for 30 years now)
You joking the makita is not in the same league, I’ve used the makita it’s weak and no where near the festool. What trade are you in bud.
Elliot Ashurst; The Makita tracksaw is more powerful than the Festool. This isn't even a matter of opinion, you can look it up. Not just in paper specs, but in real world output.
Lol Elliot Ashurst, the world isnt revolving around Festool. If I want an expensive tool then I'd rather get a Mafell.
Has anyone tried cutting through thick hardwood with the Makita .... say 1.5 inch or 2 inch (8/4) ash or oak?
FWIW, I have cut 8/4+ Ash with my Makita and it goes through it in 1 pass with no issues. Used it 2 nights ago and made 10 cuts in the Ash, all good.
Wow,if the difference was only $100 that's a no brainer,if you were saving $200 or more then you get the cheaper saw
It's been so long since I bought the saw that I don't remember the exact budget constraints, but I think at the time I didn't have the extra $100 and there was some project deadline I wanted it for. Oh well, next time. 😉
Frustrating problem, but fixed!! Well done
This makes me want to try out a couple of other blades just to see how the results vary. You know, for science ;)
Used this saw for a million cuts and never had a tear out on end of cut
Look at the cut which is burnt. Even a table saw will burn if cutting to fast or bad blade. I use Makita blades on all my compound miters because of they are excellent and cut great at price.
Several viewers have offered ideas on how to adjust for that. I just haven't had the chance to try any of those fixes yet.
Slowing down would help,
I've tried that too. Same problem. I also tried using the speed dial to lower and raise the rpms of the blade. Same problem regardless of feed rate or blade speed. Another commenter mentioned there is an adjustment for the toe-in that can be made but I haven't had a chance to try that yet.
Hi, but no need to unscrew the fase panel to change the blade! Enough to bent and push the green knob into the special socket.
I know, but to me it’s easier this way.
You could simple solved this by first just to 50% deep cutting , Makita also advised this
Nope. Tried that too.
@@BitsandWood The problem is the weight of the waste tearing the small 1/4 inch or less at the end of the cut, if you slow down the video you can see the waste start to sag as it reached the end but before the saw finishes the cut. if you support it underneath along the underside of the waste (i.e. a sacrificial board) or you have a enough space to clamp the waste level you'll find there is no tear off at the end of the cut
@@nurgle11 I think I've already tried that and had the same results, but just to be sure, I'll give that a whack. Thanks!
Was the yard you went to in Charlotte, MI? Also check your grubs on the saw the rear maybe too tight.
I haven't made it to Michigan yet. One of these days...
Dude, that chip-out though!?!
It's probably time to replace the rubber anti-tearout strips. I'm still running the originals from 5 or 6 years ago.
I like the Makita saw. The only change I did is cut the cord and made it longer so I can plug into the tool vac with the hose.
I'm planning to do the same thing. The short power cord is probably the thing that bugs me the most about it.
Sawdust is Life I made mine the same length as the vacuum hose
I had the exact same problem on my first cut right out of the box. It has always been 1/16” off at the beginning of the cut and right on the money at the end of the cut. I was also getting the semi circle tension when the blade finished the cut. If you slowly run the saw backwards its right on the money the entire way back to the beginning. Definitely feel like the blade isn’t running parallel with the track.
I'll try that before I try making any adjustments. That sounds way easier. Thanks!
Pretty sure running the saw forward and then back towards you isn’t ideal, but it showed me that my blade was probably out of toe to the right by a 1/16”. I think I read somewhere that there is an adjustment screw to fix this. Calling Makita to get directions on how to adjust. I wonder if a new blade with a thinner kerf wasn’t effected by the out of toe condition or maybe not as noticeable as a thicker blade.
@@stevemcwilliams8680 I had a similar issue with my cordless Makita. I contacted Makita and their response was "that is not field adjustable" and suggested I take it to a warranty center. After pushing further I was able to coerce the CS rep to send me the adjustment instructions from the service manual. He only sent the one sheet which I have if you would like a copy. In short it is the four screws that hold the bevel adjustment pieces. loosen three of them keeping one tight closest to the front of the blade. This gives you a pivot point for adjusting. I used the Festool setup guide you can find on line to aid in determining how much toe in is optimal. I am running with ~.006" toe in and it seems to be about right. I still get a touch of swirl on the cut from the rear of the blade which is only visible and cannot be felt. If you would like a copy let me know.
George Muff, yes I would be interested in whatever you have. Makita basically told be the same thing.
@@stevemcwilliams8680 if you can give me your email I can send you a pdf copy.
Never mind blades buy an extractor ffs
I have one. I don’t always use it if I’m cutting outside.
It's pretty obvious what's going on if you notice what's happening at the start of the cut. Using a square to set the track and not using the clamps. Ok but don't move the track at the end of the cut if you work this way.
Festool - sure if some one wants an under powered saw that has electronics to save the motor if worked to hard - pretty likely on worktops. Some take 2 cuts through 40mm. The Makita eats it.
Makita tracks not lining up - mine do and a number of others I have heard of do too. Maybe some bought Triton, sometimes the ends aren't square on those.
Freud blades - Ok yes and some types reckoned to cut as well or better than Frestool. The Makita blade is great on laminate. Not surprising really as that is what it's intended for - kitchen fitting. Leaves an edge that is as good as a router if scored first. I'm getting a pair of Freud thin kerf for other materials.
Forgot to mention Freud 165mm x 20mm should not be a problem. Maybe some one has excess stock of the blade mentioned in the vid
I get the same problem whether or not I clamp the rails. It happens even with a single rail.
I would like to buy SP 6000J with track guide. How precise is locking mechanism to the track? Is it really precise, don't go a saw a bit to side or etc?
+Tomas Toegel The mating of the saw to the track is adjustable. There are two little knobs you can turn to tighten up the fit. When mine is in the track it does not move side to side at all.
Just try to use the scoring feature
I have. I get the same problem at the end of the cut either way.
That is a mind bender. It's probably the saw and not the cut. The blade you used in the video was doo doo if it does it after you change it is gotta be the saw
@@hackcarpenter5671 Yeah, it's been a pain. Other than that, it cuts great.
What don't you like about the Makita?
The MadManc The only thing about the saw itself that I don’t like is the short power cord. The problem I’ve been having with the end of the cut I think is specific to my particular saw. I don’t think it happens to all of them.
just use some painters tape? will prevent the splinters on the top of the cut also 99% of the time
Splinters on top aren't the issue. The real problem is the last inch or two on the face of the cut where the blade seems to almost drift left just a hair. I have had some lock using painters tape to hold a scrap of wood in place at the end of the cut so it gets that little bit of drift cut instead of the main piece.
Were you able to solve the problem?
I suspect the blade was slightly toeing out My fresh out of the box Makita was my first track saw. I spent hours trying to figure out where I was going wrong. Supporting the track, clamping the track, pushing from above, the side, one hand, two hands. Everything I did left me with both a notch out the end, like this video, and also left me 1+ mm wider at the end of the cut than the start.
Finally I found the pro setup manual for the saw and checked the alignment settings. I had severe toe out, causing the blade to actively pull from the cut line and rub the rear on the cut edge. I was starting to think that track saws were just not supposed to be as accurate as I’d hoped.
After aligning so that the blade had a VERY slight toe-in it’s cutting so much more reliably, smoother, quicker, and cleaner.
Note, the manufacturer suggests no toe in. I used an Allen wrench as a spacer and aligned so the trailing edge just binds and the leading edge is just free. I feel that slight toe in can only help the saw cut true to the track and avoids the slight risk of it wandering in the cut if it’s not perfectly parallel. (Measured from the edge of the base to the off-cut side of the blade)
I've had an identical saw for 5 or 6 years, used it extensively, and I know the problem with the gouging at the end of the cut, but it's due to quick cuts where you haven't tightened the guide nobs so the saw is running tight enough on the rail and you're not paying attention to your hand motion when you end the cut. Most users are right handed, and when ending a cut, a right handed user might have a tendency to unknowingly push the saw a bit to the left - hence the gouging. Left handed users might experience the opposite.
Apart from that, the choice of sawblade could possibly also fok your cut up.
Funky that you choose to take the machine apart to change the blade - it's pretty easy and fast to do the ordinary way.
I’ll try that out, thanks. I know my way of changing the blade isn’t standard, but I find it easier this way.
£100 and the rest
I have made hundreds of cuts never had that issue.
Okay.
Maybe the blade was bent.
I got it with the old blade and the new blade. It wasn’t as bad with the new blade, but it still does it.
Just buy bosch tools.
I do have a few Bosch sanders and I'd like to upgrade my miter saw to the Bosch Glide one of these days.
If your going to buy another track saw buy the Mafell that where I'm going if my makita gives up. The makita saw is a good strong reliable saw and mine has been more reliable that my friends festool.
What I actually want to try is just making a plywood track for my old Skil saw. If nothing else, it might be a fun experiment. Sure, the dust collection wouldn't be as good, but I think it would be interesting to see what kind of accuracy can be achieved on the cheap.
Sawdust is Life that's all I used for years still got a couple of tracks that I keep for rough work. They work well equally as accurate but not so user friendly as rails no so easy to clamp and you loose more cut depth.
I use my 235mm makita and the shoe for the plunge saw rails more than the actual track saw as the blades are cheap and it tears through sheets on rough work.
Also you don't get the splinter guards.
That Mafell is a sweet looking saw though...
Sawdust is Life the mafell is very sweet:
How much this cost pls i need to buy this contact me pls
Mohammad Jilani I think they are around $430 these days.
@@BitsandWood ok
Y did you have to take off the cover plate to change the blade??
+Harry Girgin You don't have to take the cover off. I just find it easier that way.
I've been using the festool for about 20 years. There wasn't an alternative to my knowledge at the time I bought mine. I don't use it every day but it is an important part of my kit and I used it where precision is essential. While I'm curious about the Makita this video doesn't help. On the other hand there is a chance that there's a small adjustment that can be made to make this saw track parallel to the guide. This is my best guess as to why you're having the problem.
I tend to cut a lot of melamine board and I require there to be no chips on the top or bottom of the cut. A tripple chip blade with a negative rake is the first step for a perfect cut.
There are some adjustments that other viewers have mentioned that I can try. I'll be testing those out in an upcoming video, hopefully pretty soon.
Clap the track it will stop it flexing at the end of the cut
itsDinsidiousone I get the same problem even with both ends clamped.
That’s interesting , it must be a flaw if it’s a common problem . Usually track saw a very reliable for getting a clean cut
itsDinsidiousone Yeah, that’s why it’s so frustrating. It’s not the end of the world, but I’d rather it cut clean the whole way. There have been some ideas other commenters have mentioned that I need to try. I just don’t cut sheet goods very often.
Bad carpeting
?
Bashing the saw because your unprofessional and pushing a blunt blade is a joke mate.
I didn't bash the saw. It's had that problem since day 1.
Least your honest bud fair play
Bashing someone when you are illiterate is unconscionable, It would be "you're" not "your" . Yer welcum.
Wow, who has a local cabinet shop? I'd love that.
Not gonna lie, it's pretty great.
I was thinking the same thing~!~
I am a carpenter and looking to get a quality track saw , currently got a sheparc saw , question : festoon or makita ?
Sorry festool
I've never used the Festool so I can't definitively say one way or the other. There are two features on the Festool that I really wish my Makita had though: the riving knife (doesn't matter for sheet goods, but it would be nice for the rare time I cut lumber with it), and the plug-it cord. The cord on the Makita is very short. I plan to replace it soon. Other than that, they are very similar tools.
Sawdust is Life Im a Carpenter & Joiner from the UK now living in Germany and I've been using Festool for 25 years. Everyone bashes them but once you invest, you realise why they cost more, they are quality and the dust extraction is 2nd to none. Saying that though, if I'm framing a roof then I'm using my Milwaukee saw. They have their place in the industry. Buy the correct tool for the correct job.
Makita by a LONG shot. FAR more power. Festool has a little better dust collection but not that much better and the Makita owns it in every other way.
The problem is with the blade not the saw. Mine works perfectly. Thanks for the video though.
I get the same problem with the new blade, just no burning. So not a blade problem.
I’ve never bought a makita plunge saw which is its actual name. Never heard it to be a track saw, but I’ve just purchases a festool plunge saw and I can say it’s the best tool I have ever bought in my life. Had it for 3 months never been a problem and the accuracy on the saw is perfect. I had a makita circular saw and this pisses all over everything, honestly couldn’t work without it now, unbelievable tool. Would recommend massively if your second and final fixing thanks hope this helps.
Actually, if you want to get technical about it, Makita calls it a 'plunge circular saw'. Not just a plunge saw. Get it right first yourself before you spout off.
It's a plunge saw when it's off the track and a track saw on the track lol.