Brock, go back and watch the part of this video where you drive up on the concrete and look @ your front tires, they need more air! GREAT INFORMATION! : )
I installed the HydrosPlus loader cylinder today and I was having a bear of a time getting the one end installed - getting all the parts to line up was proving to be darn near impossible. Then I watched your video and I saw that you used a screw driver to pry the loader stand and quick release to get them in line. I tried that and it popped right into place. Thank you for this video. You saved an old man a few hairs.
I'd like to see a cost breakdown on how much you spent on these upgrades vs what a new/used tractor that comes stock with those upgrades would cost and any other upgrades that tractor also comes with.
One thing I have seen/heard suggested when you take joints apart or remove cylinders is clean the pin and everything around it and pre-apply new grease before putting everything back together. It's probably fine if you don't, I guess either way being generous with the grease gun after putting things back together is a good idea.
I upgraded my 2021 model 2038R to the Hydros Plus pump two years ago and actually have the 220R MSL prototype cylinders on my loader as I helped in designing them. I have lifted as much as 2,500#. I have not adjusted the hydraulic pressure from the factory setting and I do not even know what it is set at. I have 1,000# of Heavy Hitch suitcase weights on the three point arms on the Heavy Hitch double frame and an iMatch quick hitch all totaling around 1,200#. I also have 200# of RimGuard in each of my R3 rear tires. This is much more ballast than a backhoe. Without the ballast you would very quickly be in trouble lifting larger loads.
Hi Brock, when adjusting your hydraulic pressure you want to be careful. Setting your pressure up will cause hydraulic leaks and burst hoses . So adjust cautiously. Great video
When your front axles snap off that’s too much. A neighbor of mine did that on a JD 4450 and snapped off the front axle through the king pin. A used front axle a mere $12000.00!
We have a stock 1025R John Deere also. I agree, the stock loader hydraulic cylinders are wimpy. I commonly have issues just lifting a full bucket from a large compost pile. I always have to tap the reverse pedal and back out the bucket from the pile to lift it. It always gets stuck! Slows me down. It would be great to have your lift capacity. I'm envious!
Very Nice. Exactly what I am looking to do with my skid steer. Didn't seem to be too tippy at all either, we had an old rear mount Ford backhoe for our 3 series way back. One of the good ol boys around here made a counterweight that sat in the bucket by coating it with some kind of release agent and pouring in molten lead.. never saw anything like that since but boy did it work. It had the bonus of extending the boom further out to get even more counterweight when the tractor was not moving and being used as a lift.
Hi dollar counterweight when, its a backhoe, a full hoe bucket is normally more than you would ever need considering the hoe its self is an impressive cw but hey each to their own...
I've thought about going up a size in my lift cylinders but it's just a little pricey for me. Fun to see your video. People will freak but no one really knows whether you'll encounter front axle issues or not. Good for you for trying it.
Beautiful video, in my experience, the front axle will be the shear point. Excellent wrenching and demonstration, you are very correct in your statements about the engineering limits of the machine. Excellent job...
Brock… great series and super informative! I would however upgrade my front tires to the tire that has the most plies in the side wall…. Awesome content sir! 👍👍🔥🔥
Was very impressed the tractor didn't split in half, kinda like putting a 50amp fuse in a 20amp circuit. Looks like a big gamble for little gain, just my opinion, maybe a rear forklift attachment might be a better option. Good luck 🤞
Can't believe how small the original cylinders were. My RK37 has way bigger cylinders, but with it's flow, it is very slow to articulate fully. It's funny, my Rk37 stock is pretty comparable (a bit less lift) to your 2038R after you add a cab and modify the hydraulics. But mine is the off brand and yours is the premium brand. I have no problem with the design decisions to conservatively balance everything, but the price should reflect that.
Howdy Brock! That is quite the improvement! I think the weakest link on the tractor will be the front axle. You can mitigate the risk by keeping plenty of ballast on the tractor - which you probably always do. Still, that is going to put a lot of strain on the front axle. The old adage 'just because you can doesn't mean you should' comes to mind lol. I think you have the right mindset with only lifting stuff that is a little heavier than what you could marginally lift before. The totes of wood being a perfect example. I really like this upgrade for your tractor. Nicely done and thanks for sharing 🤠
Plus some serious counterweight at 3-point. The front axle of the tractor is not created for such load. By moving the center of the gravity backwards you increase the security of using it and transfer that huge load to the rear axle which is a lot stronger.
I'm with the front axle crowd. You're building an unsafe tractor. Like my dealer said, The only reason they get subcompact tractors in trade is because the customer didn't say how much tractor they needed, just what they thought would get by.
Amazing upgrade. Be very careful that you don't blow a front tire with that much weight. It could turn your tractor into a side dump model. But, you're a big boy now and I don't worry about you too much. It's the new owner that sees this and creates serious problems for himself. I'm a worry-wart by nature, so don't consider this as criticism, just showing some concern. 😊
I can appreciate the desire to get more performance from your tractor but I think you'll get stability problems from that small platform, I noticed quite a bit of flex in the loader when you lifted the car. Hope you're not compromising integrity and safety but it's definitely a beast, a bigger tractor might be the better solution.
Thanks Brock. Haven't done hyadrolics since high-school. Hoping young people can get the drift of all around mechanical abilities. Great skills to have throughout life.
Great videos Brock. But for someone who is concerned about damaging your tractor by moving it with the backhoe you seem more than willing to annihilate the loader😂
Whether your engine is at idle or revved up higher doesn't have anything to do, too much, with how much weight you can lift. That's a function of the max. pressure that your hydraulic system is capable of and the bore diameter of your cylinders. Revving the engine increases *flow*, not pressure. An increase in flow will make your cylinders move faster, not pick up more weight. About the only thing that may happen lifting max loads at idle is that you may bog down the engine until it dies.
That is the way it should work but the reality is that there is a difference at higher RPMs. Look at this example: ua-cam.com/users/shorts0Jt9-fE5P7Y?si=I68LfKfE_2U-N8qr
@rockhill farm Brock, do you regret not doing the pump, and cylinder upgrades when you had your NSL loader? Do you think if you had done them to the NSL you wouldn't have gone through and purchased the MSL loader? I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on a 2038R but with and NSL 220R loader. I worry that I will regret not having full roll and curl functions that are needed when doing overgrown property cleanup or grapple work. Any feedback would be great.
There is a fair chance the seals and parts on the front axle will be under more stress and will wear out prematurely lifting more. However paying for this would be a lot less than buying a bigger machine to pick up more.
Are there any front tire / wheel upgrades? You have increased the capability by increasing the sizing or capacity, which is a good thing. But you have not increased the Power! Tim also increased his power on his 1 series by turbocharging it. Nice series of videos though, g and responsible good warning about dangers and responsible use.
The negativity comes apparently from the assumption that I will now just pick up 2500 pounds and drive it all over the place eight hours a day I’m going to use my tractor pretty much the same way, but once in a while if I need a little more, I’ve got it
Something to check is the tires....are the front tires rated for the weight? Several videos of people modifying their lift capacities of their loaders but not a single one has checked to be sure their front tires can handle the additional weight. Might check that and mention it in your next video.
Morning I could tell u had a little problem when I saw all the grease on the cylinders. How does the tractor drive with the new pump , any different? How much $ did it cost u to do all the upgrades ? , I might do the same, I like the size of my tractor for my 6 acres & tight fences/ areas . But I do hate how much it can lift since I use to operate equipment that could lift whatever I wanted. So it's a possibility for me to do this instead of buying a new bigger tractor. When I go get wood from the Amish that I have them cut up for me cuz I have not won a sawmill. ( be a nice 200,00 subscribers give away 🙃🤪) the wood usually needs to be broken down cuz I can't lift it all . Well great job and keep up the great work. Todd
@@projectswithjw you are correct, I thought he said that 3 % hydro goes to the steering , that's what I was talking about. I probably should've said that instead of driving. I'm sure it doesn't add more pressure to the steering but I was just wondering.
Yep. Did my 2038R two years ago and haven’t split my tractor in half yet people. I’m hoping Kevin creates a video where he takes this setup to the breaking point, or you could do it Brock. I but you’d get enough views on that video alone to pay for sacrificing a 2038R or loader or whatever lets go. Pretty sure that’s how Dave Sparks paid for his Blackhawk, breaking expensive stuff.
There becomes of following size where the videos are so profitable that you literally can break a tractor just for views Whistlin diesel for instance If you look, I get 3 to 5000 views which keeps my lights on but doesn’t buy me a new tractor every video
Reminds me of people trying to make more horsepower out of a 4 cylinder engine instead of buying a 6 or 8 cylinder powered vehicle. Buy lifting power, don’t build it is my opinion, for whatever it is worth, as a mechanic and tractor owner.
The only thing that I am not sure about is. What does the modifications do to you as far as the manufacturers warranty. You should maybe see what happens if you do this kind of thing. 😮
You start the video acknowledging the only concern, your axles capacity. If you overload the axles, repairing those is far more expensive than buying the next larger series frame size. If your hydraulic pressure was adjusted below it's optimum, by all means, bring it to the proper maximum specifications. But to go beyond that is just asking to break things and void warranty. Just buy a 3, 4, or even a 5 series beyond that, buy an old used Case 580 or full sized used farm tractor with loader.
Let’s assume I sold my Tractor for what I owe on it. Getting a four series that is equipped to the same as my current tractor would cost me about $70,000 so I do not think that replacing the axle would cost as much as upgrading tractors. Paying cash for an older tractor is an appealing option that I could still take advantage of. Adding additional capability to my tractor, does not mean that I will abuse it. It means that I will have the ability if needed on occasion.
@@RockhillfarmYT Do what now? To get a 4066r with a trade in will cost you more than a quick Tractor House search for a new cab model with loader has as it's LIST price, not with trade in. How extraordinarily upside down do you have to be in payments on your current tractor to make it cheaper to buy it outright as an addition to the fleet instead of an upgrade for an undersized peice of equipment? Not to mention, there are other brands that don't make you pay the Green paint tax for people they saw coming from a mile away. I am personally partial to TYM. In which case a T574 with cab and loader is far cheaper with equivalent capabilities, and the 5835, (formerly Branson now TYM) is missing the cab option, but exceeds at all capacities. It is a true Hoss, for much less coin.
@rodgerneeb301 I owe 20,000 on my tractor which was purchased in a package with all the implements for 53,000. I have no idea what the tractor is worth. If I rolled up tomorrow and said I wanted to trade it in on a four series I bet the best offer would be straight across even though that’s probably robbery. I bet that’s what they would want to do. If I got a bigger tractor then not a single implement I own would work on it. You’re starting completely over buying all new implements. Tractor by itself is a minimum of $50,000 investment. Might be able to get a TYM for 35,000 but if it’s Yanmar, deer or Kabota it’s going to be more. If I tried to buy that new John Deere tractor with all the implements that I currently have and feel that I need, I would have a package between 70,000 and 80,000 I could get a three series John Deere and use some of my implements with it if I wanted to borrow $20,000 or more additional on my current loan The problem with that three series is it sits on the same frame as my two series
@@RockhillfarmYT Oh my goodness, you are aware that you can buy a single SSQA to JDQA adapter and all the implements will work with the new tractor right? My Red tractor, pulls an Orange implement that I bought from a Green dealership. They took it in trade from someone switching brands and sold it at an insane discount because apparently people don't understand that the paint is not what makes implements compatible with a category 1 three point hitch ...
@rodgerneeb301 yeah and I’m gonna take that big new tractor and put a 56 inch bucket on it? And then I’m gonna put a 5 foot Flail mower behind it? And a 5 foot tiller? What purpose would that serve? I wouldn’t do any more work any faster than with my little tractor We’re talking about dramatically increasing tractors. You wouldn’t go buy a six series and pull a single bottom plow with it. Implements are sized to the category of tractor you are using. Nothing that fits a two series is well suited for a four series. I just pulled into my local dealership and we’re going to talk numbers and that’ll be in the next video
You know you can very easily break a stock tractor by not being careful. As long as he is smart about how he uses this it will be just fine. Dont lift 2000 pounds and go bouncing down the road, heck lift 600# and go bouncing down the road is a quick way to break stuff. The biggest risk he faces is the front axle, but that can be mitigated a great deal by be very slow and careful with heavy loads WHICH you should be. You can bend your loader arms VERY easily with the stock setup, sure you can bend them easier with more power but same issue you have to know what you are doing.
Increasing the hydraulic flow is a $1500 upgrade Increasing the lift capacity with the bigger cylinders is a $1600 upgrade You do not have to do one upgrade to do the other. They are completely independent.
Putting larger capacity cylinders is a complete waste of money !IF the current cylinders will lift a reasonable higher weight learn to BE happy with the higher capacity your tractor has !!! All things in moderation . At some point you're going TO BEND the frame of the FEL then you're screwed !
Why on earth are you doing this. Seeens insane. This is going to cause constant failures of bolts and structures of this tractor... ... I would never buy this tractor... life shortened drastically.... as well as safety... I think you logged all the data needed to sue you in something happens to next owner....just cuz you can doesn't mean you should.... goddammit just but the right sized tractor... no need for this
There is a good sized, successful company that does nothing but sell the products that I installed in this video and they are specifically designed to only work for this model of Tractor What that means is that a lot of people are doing it and they have been for several years now. In doing my research, I couldn’t find a single person who had a failure because of this. I don’t even think the manufacturer is liable let alone one guy who does it. The big thing is just because you increase capacity doesn’t mean you’re putting more stress on your machine. Capacity does not break things. Usage breaks things. Are you actually using it… There is a responsible way to occasionally lift more as opposed to lifting that much and carrying it every day
Brock, go back and watch the part of this video where you drive up on the concrete and look @ your front tires, they need more air!
GREAT INFORMATION! : )
I installed the HydrosPlus loader cylinder today and I was having a bear of a time getting the one end installed - getting all the parts to line up was proving to be darn near impossible. Then I watched your video and I saw that you used a screw driver to pry the loader stand and quick release to get them in line. I tried that and it popped right into place. Thank you for this video. You saved an old man a few hairs.
I love comments like this. Thanks for watching and congrats on your new upgrade.
Good information Brock. I'm looking forward to your front axle rebuild series............
Finally got that bigger tractor you wanted just had to make it
I'd like to see a cost breakdown on how much you spent on these upgrades vs what a new/used tractor that comes stock with those upgrades would cost and any other upgrades that tractor also comes with.
That video is coming. I went to the dealership for a quote today.
Looks like I have to prepare a presentation to submit to the finance commettee chairwoman. Great video Brock. Thanks.
“Finance committee chairwoman” 😂😂😂
One thing I have seen/heard suggested when you take joints apart or remove cylinders is clean the pin and everything around it and pre-apply new grease before putting everything back together.
It's probably fine if you don't, I guess either way being generous with the grease gun after putting things back together is a good idea.
I upgraded my 2021 model 2038R to the Hydros Plus pump two years ago and actually have the 220R MSL prototype cylinders on my loader as I helped in designing them. I have lifted as much as 2,500#. I have not adjusted the hydraulic pressure from the factory setting and I do not even know what it is set at. I have 1,000# of Heavy Hitch suitcase weights on the three point arms on the Heavy Hitch double frame and an iMatch quick hitch all totaling around 1,200#. I also have 200# of RimGuard in each of my R3 rear tires. This is much more ballast than a backhoe. Without the ballast you would very quickly be in trouble lifting larger loads.
Hi Brock, when adjusting your hydraulic pressure you want to be careful. Setting your pressure up will cause hydraulic leaks and burst hoses . So adjust cautiously. Great video
Man, that thing is a beast now! Crazy improvement!
When your front axles snap off that’s too much. A neighbor of mine did that on a JD 4450 and snapped off the front axle through the king pin. A used front axle a mere $12000.00!
We have a stock 1025R John Deere also. I agree, the stock loader hydraulic cylinders are wimpy. I commonly have issues just lifting a full bucket from a large compost pile. I always have to tap the reverse pedal and back out the bucket from the pile to lift it. It always gets stuck! Slows me down. It would be great to have your lift capacity. I'm envious!
Check out your front tires, getting close to the rim touching the ground.
Good morning Brock, it’s amazing what a machine could do. thank you for doing these videos. I appreciate them.
Watching a tractor that size effortlessly lift a car, albeit a small one, is really really impressive. Great video and interesting series Brock!
That was impressive. Makes me want to look into options for my tractor now. Thank you!
Brock that's pretty neat that you were able to accomplish that with your tractor, looks like you did your homework!
Very Nice. Exactly what I am looking to do with my skid steer.
Didn't seem to be too tippy at all either, we had an old rear mount Ford backhoe for our 3 series way back. One of the good ol boys around here made a counterweight that sat in the bucket by coating it with some kind of release agent and pouring in molten lead.. never saw anything like that since but boy did it work. It had the bonus of extending the boom further out to get even more counterweight when the tractor was not moving and being used as a lift.
Hi dollar counterweight when, its a backhoe, a full hoe bucket is normally more than you would ever need considering the hoe its self is an impressive cw but hey each to their own...
I've thought about going up a size in my lift cylinders but it's just a little pricey for me. Fun to see your video. People will freak but no one really knows whether you'll encounter front axle issues or not. Good for you for trying it.
Morning Brock. That’s crazy!! This is the first I have seen of the hydraulic series. Interested in increasing pressure.
Beautiful video, in my experience, the front axle will be the shear point. Excellent wrenching and demonstration, you are very correct in your statements about the engineering limits of the machine. Excellent job...
Brock… great series and super informative! I would however upgrade my front tires to the tire that has the most plies in the side wall…. Awesome content sir! 👍👍🔥🔥
Was very impressed the tractor didn't split in half, kinda like putting a 50amp fuse in a 20amp circuit. Looks like a big gamble for little gain, just my opinion, maybe a rear forklift attachment might be a better option. Good luck 🤞
I think I would stop at just the pump upgrade , We also would like a ball park on costs , this has been very interesting Brock Thank You !
pc
I’m recording it
This video will be one of Brocks highest viewed videos.
Very impressive. Looks like you did it right, that thing is a hoss now.
Wow that’s crazy increases. May need to do the same for my BX.
Brock, you made a beast out of your little Johnnie!
That’s Awesome Brock.
Wow Nice . Heck of and upgrade Brock 👍
Can't believe how small the original cylinders were. My RK37 has way bigger cylinders, but with it's flow, it is very slow to articulate fully. It's funny, my Rk37 stock is pretty comparable (a bit less lift) to your 2038R after you add a cab and modify the hydraulics. But mine is the off brand and yours is the premium brand. I have no problem with the design decisions to conservatively balance everything, but the price should reflect that.
Wow nice job Brock!
love it, great job!! thanks for the video.
So getting that pin in I found using a short cut of pex tubing to be a leader for the pin. Makes it much easier.
Howdy Brock! That is quite the improvement! I think the weakest link on the tractor will be the front axle. You can mitigate the risk by keeping plenty of ballast on the tractor - which you probably always do. Still, that is going to put a lot of strain on the front axle. The old adage 'just because you can doesn't mean you should' comes to mind lol. I think you have the right mindset with only lifting stuff that is a little heavier than what you could marginally lift before. The totes of wood being a perfect example. I really like this upgrade for your tractor. Nicely done and thanks for sharing 🤠
You may want to get a higher ply tires for the front
Plus some serious counterweight at 3-point. The front axle of the tractor is not created for such load. By moving the center of the gravity backwards you increase the security of using it and transfer that huge load to the rear axle which is a lot stronger.
I'm with the front axle crowd. You're building an unsafe tractor. Like my dealer said, The only reason they get subcompact tractors in trade is because the customer didn't say how much tractor they needed, just what they thought would get by.
Now THAT’S impressive! And I was worried going up 150 psi 🤣
Amazing upgrade. Be very careful that you don't blow a front tire with that much weight. It could turn your tractor into a side dump model. But, you're a big boy now and I don't worry about you too much. It's the new owner that sees this and creates serious problems for himself. I'm a worry-wart by nature, so don't consider this as criticism, just showing some concern. 😊
Now you feel like a tym owner!
I can appreciate the desire to get more performance from your tractor but I think you'll get stability problems from that small platform, I noticed quite a bit of flex in the loader when you lifted the car. Hope you're not compromising integrity and safety but it's definitely a beast, a bigger tractor might be the better solution.
Morning Brock, now you can sell that skid steer :)
You make great videos.
Thanks Brock.
Haven't done hyadrolics since high-school.
Hoping young people can get the drift of all around mechanical abilities.
Great skills to have throughout life.
Wow!
3 types of people... 1.) Guy that Never exceeds Factory Limits, 2.) Guy that sqeezes every drop out of his machine, & 3.)....WhistlinDiesel LOL
We need a Tractor MAX. Build it to drive in lakes. 😆😆
Great videos Brock. But for someone who is concerned about damaging your tractor by moving it with the backhoe you seem more than willing to annihilate the loader😂
Whether your engine is at idle or revved up higher doesn't have anything to do, too much, with how much weight you can lift. That's a function of the max. pressure that your hydraulic system is capable of and the bore diameter of your cylinders. Revving the engine increases *flow*, not pressure. An increase in flow will make your cylinders move faster, not pick up more weight. About the only thing that may happen lifting max loads at idle is that you may bog down the engine until it dies.
That is the way it should work but the reality is that there is a difference at higher RPMs. Look at this example: ua-cam.com/users/shorts0Jt9-fE5P7Y?si=I68LfKfE_2U-N8qr
@rockhill farm Brock, do you regret not doing the pump, and cylinder upgrades when you had your NSL loader? Do you think if you had done them to the NSL you wouldn't have gone through and purchased the MSL loader? I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on a 2038R but with and NSL 220R loader. I worry that I will regret not having full roll and curl functions that are needed when doing overgrown property cleanup or grapple work. Any feedback would be great.
There is a fair chance the seals and parts on the front axle will be under more stress and will wear out prematurely lifting more. However paying for this would be a lot less than buying a bigger machine to pick up more.
If I can get some information from my dealership, then that topic will be my video on Sunday
Also, looks like you’ve lost a ton of weight man, congrats dude, I’m sure you feel awesome
Yes, sir. Down 37 pounds in two months.
@@RockhillfarmYT congratulations. I’m sure it hasn’t been easy but that’s immensely impressive. Very happy for you.
Are there any front tire / wheel upgrades? You have increased the capability by increasing the sizing or capacity, which is a good thing. But you have not increased the Power! Tim also increased his power on his 1 series by turbocharging it. Nice series of videos though, g and responsible good warning about dangers and responsible use.
With only upgrading the lift cylinders and not the curl cylinders could that create an issue where the curl cylinder can’t hold up what you can lift?
wish my 38hp compact could lift 2100lb like that!
It's a 2038M now!
Be careful. The combination of that backhoe and lifting that much on the front end could cause that tractor to split in half right between you legs.
Awesome!
Yeah those front tires are screaming
Brock do you want to test that tractor....just fill the plastic tank that fits in that tote.....that is about the best test you can do
2200 pounds of water is what will fit in those totes. If I got one of the bigger ones it’s 2600.
yea looks like same shuttle we put roundup and paraquat in. 265 gallons.
@@RockhillfarmYT
oh no one will be able to needle u about actual weight. it just eliminates the haters from your math equation
@@RockhillfarmYT
thats almost scary what your tractor will now lift.
The negativity comes apparently from the assumption that I will now just pick up 2500 pounds and drive it all over the place eight hours a day
I’m going to use my tractor pretty much the same way, but once in a while if I need a little more, I’ve got it
Something to check is the tires....are the front tires rated for the weight? Several videos of people modifying their lift capacities of their loaders but not a single one has checked to be sure their front tires can handle the additional weight. Might check that and mention it in your next video.
Morning I could tell u had a little problem when I saw all the grease on the cylinders. How does the tractor drive with the new pump , any different?
How much $ did it cost u to do all the upgrades ? , I might do the same, I like the size of my tractor for my 6 acres & tight fences/ areas . But I do hate how much it can lift since I use to operate equipment that could lift whatever I wanted. So it's a possibility for me to do this instead of buying a new bigger tractor. When I go get wood from the Amish that I have them cut up for me cuz I have not won a sawmill. ( be a nice 200,00 subscribers give away 🙃🤪) the wood usually needs to be broken down cuz I can't lift it all . Well great job and keep up the great work. Todd
The implement flow pump he changed out does nothing for the transmission. That is driven by its own internal pump.
@@projectswithjw you are correct, I thought he said that 3 % hydro goes to the steering , that's what I was talking about. I probably should've said that instead of driving. I'm sure it doesn't add more pressure to the steering but I was just wondering.
Ahh i misunderstood.@@toddcaskey9984
@@projectswithjw it's all good, I'm usually misunderstood daily if not minutely🤪
Yep. Did my 2038R two years ago and haven’t split my tractor in half yet people. I’m hoping Kevin creates a video where he takes this setup to the breaking point, or you could do it Brock. I but you’d get enough views on that video alone to pay for sacrificing a 2038R or loader or whatever lets go. Pretty sure that’s how Dave Sparks paid for his Blackhawk, breaking expensive stuff.
There becomes of following size where the videos are so profitable that you literally can break a tractor just for views
Whistlin diesel for instance
If you look, I get 3 to 5000 views which keeps my lights on but doesn’t buy me a new tractor every video
@@RockhillfarmYT Well, we’ll just have to get your following up! 😂
There’s a simple trick to get the following up. The answer is… Make better videos.
Better is subjective though
@@RockhillfarmYT No risk, no reward! If you break it, they will come! 😂
All that just to pickup the same as comparable kioti from factory
This is cool, but they don't make anything for the 4 series tractors.
Reminds me of people trying to make more horsepower out of a 4 cylinder engine instead of buying a 6 or 8 cylinder powered vehicle. Buy lifting power, don’t build it is my opinion, for whatever it is worth, as a mechanic and tractor owner.
Wow you’re gonna break that baby in half.
Fork lift certified. Fork lift certified.
Did you replace all 4 cylinders? Or just the 2 for the lift?
thanks for the answer.
On the standard loader, he has all four cylinders. On the MSL he only has the two and they affect the curl so it doesn’t require all four.
@@RockhillfarmYT I thought that may be the case with the MSL loader.
The only thing that I am not sure about is. What does the modifications do to you as far as the manufacturers warranty. You should maybe see what happens if you do this kind of thing. 😮
Deere warranty is worthless anyway. They pull every trick in the book to get out of every thing they can.
You start the video acknowledging the only concern, your axles capacity. If you overload the axles, repairing those is far more expensive than buying the next larger series frame size. If your hydraulic pressure was adjusted below it's optimum, by all means, bring it to the proper maximum specifications. But to go beyond that is just asking to break things and void warranty. Just buy a 3, 4, or even a 5 series beyond that, buy an old used Case 580 or full sized used farm tractor with loader.
Let’s assume I sold my Tractor for what I owe on it. Getting a four series that is equipped to the same as my current tractor would cost me about $70,000 so I do not think that replacing the axle would cost as much as upgrading tractors.
Paying cash for an older tractor is an appealing option that I could still take advantage of.
Adding additional capability to my tractor, does not mean that I will abuse it. It means that I will have the ability if needed on occasion.
@@RockhillfarmYT
Do what now? To get a 4066r with a trade in will cost you more than a quick Tractor House search for a new cab model with loader has as it's LIST price, not with trade in. How extraordinarily upside down do you have to be in payments on your current tractor to make it cheaper to buy it outright as an addition to the fleet instead of an upgrade for an undersized peice of equipment?
Not to mention, there are other brands that don't make you pay the Green paint tax for people they saw coming from a mile away. I am personally partial to TYM. In which case a T574 with cab and loader is far cheaper with equivalent capabilities, and the 5835, (formerly Branson now TYM) is missing the cab option, but exceeds at all capacities. It is a true Hoss, for much less coin.
@rodgerneeb301 I owe 20,000 on my tractor which was purchased in a package with all the implements for 53,000. I have no idea what the tractor is worth.
If I rolled up tomorrow and said I wanted to trade it in on a four series I bet the best offer would be straight across even though that’s probably robbery. I bet that’s what they would want to do.
If I got a bigger tractor then not a single implement I own would work on it. You’re starting completely over buying all new implements. Tractor by itself is a minimum of $50,000 investment. Might be able to get a TYM for 35,000 but if it’s Yanmar, deer or Kabota it’s going to be more.
If I tried to buy that new John Deere tractor with all the implements that I currently have and feel that I need, I would have a package between 70,000 and 80,000
I could get a three series John Deere and use some of my implements with it if I wanted to borrow $20,000 or more additional on my current loan
The problem with that three series is it sits on the same frame as my two series
@@RockhillfarmYT
Oh my goodness, you are aware that you can buy a single SSQA to JDQA adapter and all the implements will work with the new tractor right? My Red tractor, pulls an Orange implement that I bought from a Green dealership. They took it in trade from someone switching brands and sold it at an insane discount because apparently people don't understand that the paint is not what makes implements compatible with a category 1 three point hitch ...
@rodgerneeb301 yeah and I’m gonna take that big new tractor and put a 56 inch bucket on it? And then I’m gonna put a 5 foot Flail mower behind it? And a 5 foot tiller?
What purpose would that serve? I wouldn’t do any more work any faster than with my little tractor
We’re talking about dramatically increasing tractors.
You wouldn’t go buy a six series and pull a single bottom plow with it. Implements are sized to the category of tractor you are using.
Nothing that fits a two series is well suited for a four series.
I just pulled into my local dealership and we’re going to talk numbers and that’ll be in the next video
What cylinders did you get for the upgrade?
hydrosplus.com/shop/ols/products/hydrosplus-lift-plus-220-msl-max
Thanks
Time to trade my 1025r in and get a 2038r lol 😂
Don't snap your spindles off your front axles..
I bet you could take the old cylinders, add a junk pump, and make a pretty decent wood splitter without much work. Just sayin'.
Absolutely a mistake, get your checkbook ready for when the loader or other parts break, tractor was NOT DESIGNED for that pressure
You know you can very easily break a stock tractor by not being careful. As long as he is smart about how he uses this it will be just fine. Dont lift 2000 pounds and go bouncing down the road, heck lift 600# and go bouncing down the road is a quick way to break stuff. The biggest risk he faces is the front axle, but that can be mitigated a great deal by be very slow and careful with heavy loads WHICH you should be.
You can bend your loader arms VERY easily with the stock setup, sure you can bend them easier with more power but same issue you have to know what you are doing.
It would be unwise to do this conversion during the warranty period.!
I'm that guy too..... at least until you tell us what this costs. Then I might not be that guy. 😕
Increasing the hydraulic flow is a $1500 upgrade
Increasing the lift capacity with the bigger cylinders is a $1600 upgrade
You do not have to do one upgrade to do the other. They are completely independent.
Yeah, but you didn’t double your tractors axle size etc..
Just step up to a bigger Tractor.! Bigger can take more punishment.! 🤔
Putting larger capacity cylinders is a complete waste of money !IF the current cylinders will lift a reasonable higher weight learn to BE happy with the higher capacity your tractor has !!! All things in moderation .
At some point you're going TO BEND the frame of the FEL then you're screwed !
Why on earth are you doing this. Seeens insane. This is going to cause constant failures of bolts and structures of this tractor... ... I would never buy this tractor... life shortened drastically.... as well as safety... I think you logged all the data needed to sue you in something happens to next owner....just cuz you can doesn't mean you should.... goddammit just but the right sized tractor... no need for this
There is a good sized, successful company that does nothing but sell the products that I installed in this video and they are specifically designed to only work for this model of Tractor
What that means is that a lot of people are doing it and they have been for several years now. In doing my research, I couldn’t find a single person who had a failure because of this.
I don’t even think the manufacturer is liable let alone one guy who does it.
The big thing is just because you increase capacity doesn’t mean you’re putting more stress on your machine.
Capacity does not break things. Usage breaks things.
Are you actually using it… There is a responsible way to occasionally lift more as opposed to lifting that much and carrying it every day