That is so true. Somebody needs to make car makers go back to building them like that where there's a housing under the engine bay that you can get to and pull evaporator out of. Would make it so much easier
I have a 96 Chevy s10 that does not have stock ac. I’m thinking about attempting to install an ac system from parts out of a wrecking yard. Wish me luck.
I was trying to get the other side off there not the one that you removed, the one that was still on the truck why cant it come out? Its like seriously a few bolts and the the ones around the evep core and those two studs one and it refuses to come out. It should just come out right??
That’s how I did it, I coulde t get it out all the way from rusted bolts so I just yanked the core out. Cracked the housing some but I plan to use jb weld to glue it and hvac caulking compound to make it air tight
@@DirtyNate98 I should probably make mine air tight again, the rubber that was in it went to dust and some air leaks out too. Tho and granted it's the climate I live in, the bolts on mine weren't rusted but funny it's like how every car issue is like when taking things off lol. I wanted to change my spark plugs but my engine got in the way, so I pulled it out lol. That was the case with me too the engine was in the way. I know the truck is mine but I still don't like breaking things to get them off but I then realized there was a like 5.5 mm bolt that has a clamp and holding the evap core to it, it's only one tho. Tho I still caved and pulled it out like the video it's actually quite nice actually. Part from the dirt packed everywhere and on the fasteners making it kinda annoying to get a socket on it worked pretty good. If I need to pull that thing again I think I'll still do the same way too then do the air tight seal after. Maybe put some shielding insulator so it doesn't have to fight the engine heat too.
@@photondebuger45 ideal polymer caulking compound I saw in another video I’m using to go around the evap coil pipes to fill that hole where the grommet was, and I’m using hvac silicone to give around the edges of the housing. and I’m using jb plastic weld to fix my plastic housing, I wonder if the bolts on the bottom were meant to be 5.5 and not 7/32. I prob cracked that housing for no reason…. Either way nothing a little bit of glue won’t fix. Much better than the wheel well method everyone else does. Pretty easy to work on other than that coil. My orifice tube has metal shavings so I guess it’s been worth my time. Last thing I’m just not sure on is how much pag oil goes In the dryer and how much in the compressor. And does it matter which hole it goes down in the dryer.
@@DirtyNate98 eh you can stick it in there in the accumulator I did but like I dispersed it everywhere in the system like it's supposed to take 8 ounces so a whole bottle. It's been changed to pag 48 for a lighter viscosity for it, seems the 150 is too thick and can't move grenading systems then. I replaced everything really so it took care of that problem. I put like 4 in the accumulator and 3 in the compressor or something like that and the other rest of it on the condenser or tried to get it in there 8 is the max capacity of oil btw. Works great now took a while to like equalize n stuff mostly because it was a new system but works fantastic now. It gets you real cold now in the cab
@@photondebuger45 I think I’ll do half and half in the condenser and accumulator/dryer. Going to consider less viscous oil like you said but I’ll see what the compressor calls for. Iv replaced everything so I’m starting from scratch. It did blow super cold before the compressor blew up. Especially since it’s a little truck cab. I love it for humid Ohio summers. I’ll comment back here once I’m done for anyone who happens to read this. I’m going to make sure to turn the clutch to move some oil around before start up and I plan to add the refrigerant very slowly.
Well@@SteverRob I guess I can just vacuum it off periodically. All I have to do is remove the blower motor resistor. But as luck would have it The side that the mesh was on was the side the air blows out of the evaporator coils. It flows into the evaporator from the other side through the evaporator and then the mesh followed by into the cabin vents. Maybe people filter I guess so we don't sneeze from the dust?
Oh and I just thought of a way to change the fact that it doesn't have a cabin filter. The return vent is on top of the dashboard by the windshield and really isn't that hard to take out. I could always cut a filter to that shape and put it in there so that it will always filter out dirt and contaminants so they don't go back to the vent system or the evaporator. That's the vent where most often the air enters the duct system to go through the evaporator in the first place. I don't typically use the external one on the other side of the windshield. Definitely not in the heart of hot summer. Everything's recirculate recirculate recirculate.
The mesh I believe is to reduce moisture droplets from blowing into the HVAC housing from the wet evaporator core. The water droplets will hit the mesh and get caught. Then the water falls down into the condensate drain pan.
@@TechnicianRed a condensate pan which my truck does not have but there is a hole I think in the bottom of the evaporator housing located in the rear of the engine bay along the firewall and it lets the moisture out to the bottom. So I guess that mesh helps absorb some of that otherwise it would corrode the evaporator?
@@electric_thumbs the condensate "pan" is simply the bottom portion of the plastic HVAC housing. The water won't corrode the evaporator core. The mesh will just keep any water droplets from passing through that might be blown off of the evaporator core. I could be wrong however. This was the only reason I could think of for the mesh. 99% of vehicles don't have any mesh.
I wish the newer cars and trucks were like that. Now you have to pull the dash to get them out. That's about $2000 or more now.
That is so true. Somebody needs to make car makers go back to building them like that where there's a housing under the engine bay that you can get to and pull evaporator out of. Would make it so much easier
I know crazy $_$_
I have a 96 Chevy s10 that does not have stock ac. I’m thinking about attempting to install an ac system from parts out of a wrecking yard. Wish me luck.
You should probably get atleast the refrigerant installed professionally (ozone destroying refrigerant depending on what type you use)
How has that been going for you? I have same truck and no stock A/C
Can replacing the evaporator core cause the heater to stop working?
I didn't see an expansion valve. Is it just an orifice tube?
Yes any system that uses a suction accumulator like this one also uses an orifice tube.
@@TechnicianRed Thanks for the info. I'm working on an 01 Jimmy. I didn't see any expansion valve other than the orifice tube.
This is coming up for me. I'll let you show me. Lol
I was trying to get the other side off there not the one that you removed, the one that was still on the truck why cant it come out? Its like seriously a few bolts and the the ones around the evep core and those two studs one and it refuses to come out. It should just come out right??
That’s how I did it, I coulde t get it out all the way from rusted bolts so I just yanked the core out. Cracked the housing some but I plan to use jb weld to glue it and hvac caulking compound to make it air tight
@@DirtyNate98 I should probably make mine air tight again, the rubber that was in it went to dust and some air leaks out too. Tho and granted it's the climate I live in, the bolts on mine weren't rusted but funny it's like how every car issue is like when taking things off lol. I wanted to change my spark plugs but my engine got in the way, so I pulled it out lol. That was the case with me too the engine was in the way. I know the truck is mine but I still don't like breaking things to get them off but I then realized there was a like 5.5 mm bolt that has a clamp and holding the evap core to it, it's only one tho. Tho I still caved and pulled it out like the video it's actually quite nice actually. Part from the dirt packed everywhere and on the fasteners making it kinda annoying to get a socket on it worked pretty good. If I need to pull that thing again I think I'll still do the same way too then do the air tight seal after. Maybe put some shielding insulator so it doesn't have to fight the engine heat too.
@@photondebuger45 ideal polymer caulking compound I saw in another video I’m using to go around the evap coil pipes to fill that hole where the grommet was, and I’m using hvac silicone to give around the edges of the housing. and I’m using jb plastic weld to fix my plastic housing, I wonder if the bolts on the bottom were meant to be 5.5 and not 7/32. I prob cracked that housing for no reason…. Either way nothing a little bit of glue won’t fix. Much better than the wheel well method everyone else does.
Pretty easy to work on other than that coil. My orifice tube has metal shavings so I guess it’s been worth my time. Last thing I’m just not sure on is how much pag oil goes In the dryer and how much in the compressor. And does it matter which hole it goes down in the dryer.
@@DirtyNate98 eh you can stick it in there in the accumulator I did but like I dispersed it everywhere in the system like it's supposed to take 8 ounces so a whole bottle. It's been changed to pag 48 for a lighter viscosity for it, seems the 150 is too thick and can't move grenading systems then. I replaced everything really so it took care of that problem. I put like 4 in the accumulator and 3 in the compressor or something like that and the other rest of it on the condenser or tried to get it in there 8 is the max capacity of oil btw. Works great now took a while to like equalize n stuff mostly because it was a new system but works fantastic now. It gets you real cold now in the cab
@@photondebuger45 I think I’ll do half and half in the condenser and accumulator/dryer. Going to consider less viscous oil like you said but I’ll see what the compressor calls for. Iv replaced everything so I’m starting from scratch. It did blow super cold before the compressor blew up. Especially since it’s a little truck cab. I love it for humid Ohio summers. I’ll comment back here once I’m done for anyone who happens to read this.
I’m going to make sure to turn the clutch to move some oil around before start up and I plan to add the refrigerant very slowly.
Ah, you so fancy with that swivel. Not everybody got those 😂
What is the average cost of this in today's day in age, at a local garage? I know what a dealer would charge.
Does anybody know why that chicken wire mesh is installed on these evaporators? Is it okay that I left mine off when I put the new evaporator in?
Well@@SteverRob I guess I can just vacuum it off periodically. All I have to do is remove the blower motor resistor. But as luck would have it The side that the mesh was on was the side the air blows out of the evaporator coils. It flows into the evaporator from the other side through the evaporator and then the mesh followed by into the cabin vents. Maybe people filter I guess so we don't sneeze from the dust?
Oh and I just thought of a way to change the fact that it doesn't have a cabin filter. The return vent is on top of the dashboard by the windshield and really isn't that hard to take out. I could always cut a filter to that shape and put it in there so that it will always filter out dirt and contaminants so they don't go back to the vent system or the evaporator. That's the vent where most often the air enters the duct system to go through the evaporator in the first place. I don't typically use the external one on the other side of the windshield. Definitely not in the heart of hot summer. Everything's recirculate recirculate recirculate.
The mesh I believe is to reduce moisture droplets from blowing into the HVAC housing from the wet evaporator core. The water droplets will hit the mesh and get caught. Then the water falls down into the condensate drain pan.
@@TechnicianRed a condensate pan which my truck does not have but there is a hole I think in the bottom of the evaporator housing located in the rear of the engine bay along the firewall and it lets the moisture out to the bottom. So I guess that mesh helps absorb some of that otherwise it would corrode the evaporator?
@@electric_thumbs the condensate "pan" is simply the bottom portion of the plastic HVAC housing. The water won't corrode the evaporator core. The mesh will just keep any water droplets from passing through that might be blown off of the evaporator core. I could be wrong however. This was the only reason I could think of for the mesh. 99% of vehicles don't have any mesh.
I love you
Wish you had shown what you did rather than describing.