Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They are honestly some of the best Diag videos around. Soo many people skip the actual troubleshooting.
Very nice and complete video. This is the kind of how-to we need on UA-cam! Side note, my idler pulley had a square slot for use with a socket wrench or breaker bar (this may vary depending on model). That makes it pretty easy to remove the serpentine belt. I use a pipe for leverage on the wrench so I can move the idler one-handed, then the other hand can guide the belt off the pulley.
A few lessons learned after I did this job on my truck: - If you luck out, you can pull the sensor from under the truck without having to remove the power steering pump. This only works if the sensor comes out in one piece, otherwise you'll have to remove the pump to remove the sensor and get any loose bits out. If you are one of the lucky ones, you just have to carefully bend the sensor out because it'll hit the edge of the PS pump. It's possible to get it out, but it takes some finesse. The same goes for putting the new one in; you have to come in at an angle and carefully force the sensor in until its head is past the PS pump. It's a pain and you have to be extraordinarily careful, but I was able to do it with the help of some motor oil to lubricate the sensor. - given the above, it's probably worth checking if the sensor will come out in one piece before you start removing other parts. Just be very careful so you don't break the sensor in the process. If it works, it could save you a lot of time. - as the video suggests, don't forget to tie a piece of paracord or similar to the old sensor connector. That way you can use the paracord as a "placeholder" for where the new wire will go; you just tie the paracord to the new connector and feed it back up along the engine. This is easier said than done because there's not a lot of space for the connector to travel through the engine, but it's doable with some patience. Small hands help too. - I found the new sensor male connector difficult to connect to the female wiring harness connector, so I used a tiny amount of oil to lubricate the gasket on the existing female connector (the purple gasket mentioned in the video). You have to be careful not to get oil in the electrical connection, though! - all in all, I think this can be done in about an hour if luck is on your side and you know what you're doing. It took me longer than that because there was some trial and error involved, so schedule considering that possibility. - if you don't have a Tech2 tool, you can repeat the relearn process a few times to make sure it goes through. When I did it the second time, it gave me a P1214 (injection pump timing offset), so I did it a third time and the problem went away. However, that indicates that the injection pump needs to be adjusted, so I'll be taking it to a mechanic just to do that part. It's probably wise to have someone check the timing after this job regardless of trouble codes. I hope this helps!
Hi, little late to the party here. But I thought video was great and my question is are you able to share where I can find the 6.5 repair manual you were referencing in the video. Thanks
Thanks. There's a link in the description for those hardcopy service manuals. They've been out of print for a few decades now, but they show up for sale from time to time. You can also _rent_ online access over a weekend from GMs Service Information portal at www.acdelcotds.com.
A bit of a critique. It is SO easy to pull the upper intake..... using an air ratchet it takes less than a minute, it only makes sense to remove it to gain access to any wiring underneath it, rather than try to work around. It's just the (5 or 6) center bolts, loosen the hose clamp, remove one bridge bolt and loosen the other, and take off two electrical connectors. The gasket between the upper and lower intake is thin paper, and as long as it isn't torn, should be able to be re-used indefinitely.
I presume you're referring to the harness disconnect and reconnect parts of the job. Sure, that's an option. You'll need to re-seal the upper intake crossover silicone to the turbocharger as well.
@@DrShock ....... Sealing the hose with gasket maker isn't a factory procedure. I can't say that I've ever had any oil leak from my hose. Those spring hose clamps are intended to be tight tight, not just tensioned. The springs are there to tighten more if and when the hose material squeezes out underneath the clamps, which is a very real issue with modern synthetic rubbers. I'm not really referring to disconnecting and reconnecting the harness...... I didn't watch the whole video, I assumed you swapped the sensor, since you had a new one. And trying to probe a connector underneath an intake..... just pull the thing out. I mean, to each their own. I ran an auto repair shop for years. Don't waste a half hour trying to work around something when you can spend 2 minutes pulling the part off and get room.
Now that upper intake crossover silicone reseal definitely is a factory procedure (at least for 97 and up), it's called out whenever the 6.5L engines upper intake is re-installed to the turbo outlet hose (GM C/K truck service manual 1998 page 6-664). Also the torque value on those two adjustable spring clamps on the turbo outlet hose is specified in there too (50 inch lbs). I do thank you for sharing your tip here. I encourage folks to improvise with the tools and techniques in doing their own repairs (I do it myself), but I want to share what the GM engineers wrote too so we all make informed decisions.
What manual is that? Do you have a part number for that manual? I’ve had a hard time tracking one down, and recently purchased a 1997 c3500 dually with the 6.5L TD and I’ve been having all sorts of issues.
Those manuals have been out of print for decades, but there's a search link in the description where used copies turn up from time to time. You can also "rent" them directly from GM at www.acdelcotds.com.
Hello, I am writing from Chile, I need a diagram of the vacuum hoses for the GM 6.5 1996 engine. Can you please help me? In my country there is no information. Thanks you very much
There's an emissions sticker on the engine air cleaner housing. It's a basic diagram but the only vacuum lines are for the waste gate solenoid. Try this video ua-cam.com/video/XdAUfeqp9b8/v-deo.html
Would you happen to know where the ign-e fuse wire runs? i am working on a rig that a knucklehead rewired poorly and that is last wire i can't figure where it is supposed to go. the wire i have is broken off by the fuel filter.
Dr Shock off topic but can you recommend a source for quality remanned injection pump 99 6.5 ? Also do you know the codes it will throw for a bad pump my mech did I diagnostic and I want to compare codes to verify he's correct? Thanks for the great in depth vids!!!
Personally, I'd buy a replacement IP from rockauto.com and I'd go with the ACDelco reman version. My second choice supplier would be Delphi. The reason for rockauto is no haggle return policy, decent core credit amounts, and solid long term reputation as a parts retailer. The reason I'd go with ACDelco or Delphi is OEM quality (btw Stanadyne was the actual OEM but they only sold new not reman). The GM number on that 1999 IP is 19209059. I would not let a GM dealer install this part, the techs who know this engine are long gone/retired in most cases. If I wasn't doing it myself, I'd have a Stanadyne shop do it (it requires special wrenches to adjust the timing and access to a GM Tech2 scanner to initiate the TDC offset relearn). Not a DIY unless you have access to those tools.
Ive installed 8 in the past 2 months pensacola keeps sending me lemons the first one had bad optic sensor this one lost pressure and wont stay running it just keeps stalling in like 3 seconds.
Hi Dr shock thank you for all the vids they've helped me allot I have a 98 6.5 v.i.n F .. is there any way using a multi meter to set timing on optic sensor? Your help is greatly appreciated.
Not that I'm aware of. You would typically scribe/scratch the original sensor location _before_ removing it to replace. A Tech2 scan tool would be needed to correctly adjust it from there.
Used by the engine computer / powertrain control module to determine the position of the crankshaft and its rotational speed. The firmware in the computer takes this information into account when setting fuel injection and timing parameters. This is why scan tool setting of the top dead center (TDC) offset is associated with replacing this part.
Why they engineer everything so poorly is a true mystery the engineers really destroy stuff and get over paid to screw a lot of stuff up.these sensors are useless complications of insanity.
GM has always sold the hard copy service manuals thru www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=helm&class%5F2=CHV but they discontinued alot of the older models awhile ago. You can sometimes find them on eBay at this affiliate search link - ebay.us/z5cENd
Приветствую! Подскажите пожалуйста вашему русскому подписчику!) Не могу найти достоверной информации! Мой субурбан 6.5 дизель выдает ошибки по блинк коду, 19 и 78, что они значат? Спасибо!
In English, asking about ODBI blink codes 19 and 78. 78 is a wastegate solenoid fault. 19 is a crankshaft position reference error. The 19 you may be in the right video for already ;-) For the 78 this might help - ua-cam.com/video/XdAUfeqp9b8/v-deo.html In Russian, 78 - неисправность соленоида вестгейта. 19 представляет собой коленчатый референтное положение ошибки. Для тех 19, которые вы уже можете увидеть в нужном видео ;-) Для 78 это может помочь - ua-cam.com/video/XdAUfeqp9b8/v-deo.html
Да, номер детали, который я указываю в описании, относится к 1994 г. и новее. Но вид разборки в видео только для 1996 года и новее. Yes, the part number I use in the description is for 1994 and up. But the disassembly procedure in the video is only the same for 1996 and newer.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They are honestly some of the best Diag videos around. Soo many people skip the actual troubleshooting.
Very nice and complete video. This is the kind of how-to we need on UA-cam!
Side note, my idler pulley had a square slot for use with a socket wrench or breaker bar (this may vary depending on model). That makes it pretty easy to remove the serpentine belt. I use a pipe for leverage on the wrench so I can move the idler one-handed, then the other hand can guide the belt off the pulley.
A few lessons learned after I did this job on my truck:
- If you luck out, you can pull the sensor from under the truck without having to remove the power steering pump. This only works if the sensor comes out in one piece, otherwise you'll have to remove the pump to remove the sensor and get any loose bits out. If you are one of the lucky ones, you just have to carefully bend the sensor out because it'll hit the edge of the PS pump. It's possible to get it out, but it takes some finesse. The same goes for putting the new one in; you have to come in at an angle and carefully force the sensor in until its head is past the PS pump. It's a pain and you have to be extraordinarily careful, but I was able to do it with the help of some motor oil to lubricate the sensor.
- given the above, it's probably worth checking if the sensor will come out in one piece before you start removing other parts. Just be very careful so you don't break the sensor in the process. If it works, it could save you a lot of time.
- as the video suggests, don't forget to tie a piece of paracord or similar to the old sensor connector. That way you can use the paracord as a "placeholder" for where the new wire will go; you just tie the paracord to the new connector and feed it back up along the engine. This is easier said than done because there's not a lot of space for the connector to travel through the engine, but it's doable with some patience. Small hands help too.
- I found the new sensor male connector difficult to connect to the female wiring harness connector, so I used a tiny amount of oil to lubricate the gasket on the existing female connector (the purple gasket mentioned in the video). You have to be careful not to get oil in the electrical connection, though!
- all in all, I think this can be done in about an hour if luck is on your side and you know what you're doing. It took me longer than that because there was some trial and error involved, so schedule considering that possibility.
- if you don't have a Tech2 tool, you can repeat the relearn process a few times to make sure it goes through. When I did it the second time, it gave me a P1214 (injection pump timing offset), so I did it a third time and the problem went away. However, that indicates that the injection pump needs to be adjusted, so I'll be taking it to a mechanic just to do that part. It's probably wise to have someone check the timing after this job regardless of trouble codes.
I hope this helps!
Thank you for the information.
good video thank
Hi, little late to the party here. But I thought video was great and my question is are you able to share where I can find the 6.5 repair manual you were referencing in the video. Thanks
Thanks. There's a link in the description for those hardcopy service manuals. They've been out of print for a few decades now, but they show up for sale from time to time. You can also _rent_ online access over a weekend from GMs Service Information portal at www.acdelcotds.com.
A bit of a critique. It is SO easy to pull the upper intake..... using an air ratchet it takes less than a minute, it only makes sense to remove it to gain access to any wiring underneath it, rather than try to work around. It's just the (5 or 6) center bolts, loosen the hose clamp, remove one bridge bolt and loosen the other, and take off two electrical connectors. The gasket between the upper and lower intake is thin paper, and as long as it isn't torn, should be able to be re-used indefinitely.
I presume you're referring to the harness disconnect and reconnect parts of the job. Sure, that's an option. You'll need to re-seal the upper intake crossover silicone to the turbocharger as well.
@@DrShock ....... Sealing the hose with gasket maker isn't a factory procedure. I can't say that I've ever had any oil leak from my hose. Those spring hose clamps are intended to be tight tight, not just tensioned. The springs are there to tighten more if and when the hose material squeezes out underneath the clamps, which is a very real issue with modern synthetic rubbers. I'm not really referring to disconnecting and reconnecting the harness...... I didn't watch the whole video, I assumed you swapped the sensor, since you had a new one. And trying to probe a connector underneath an intake..... just pull the thing out. I mean, to each their own. I ran an auto repair shop for years. Don't waste a half hour trying to work around something when you can spend 2 minutes pulling the part off and get room.
Now that upper intake crossover silicone reseal definitely is a factory procedure (at least for 97 and up), it's called out whenever the 6.5L engines upper intake is re-installed to the turbo outlet hose (GM C/K truck service manual 1998 page 6-664). Also the torque value on those two adjustable spring clamps on the turbo outlet hose is specified in there too (50 inch lbs).
I do thank you for sharing your tip here. I encourage folks to improvise with the tools and techniques in doing their own repairs (I do it myself), but I want to share what the GM engineers wrote too so we all make informed decisions.
What manual is that? Do you have a part number for that manual? I’ve had a hard time tracking one down, and recently purchased a 1997 c3500 dually with the 6.5L TD and I’ve been having all sorts of issues.
Those manuals have been out of print for decades, but there's a search link in the description where used copies turn up from time to time. You can also "rent" them directly from GM at www.acdelcotds.com.
Hello, I am writing from Chile, I need a diagram of the vacuum hoses for the GM 6.5 1996 engine. Can you please help me? In my country there is no information. Thanks you very much
There's an emissions sticker on the engine air cleaner housing. It's a basic diagram but the only vacuum lines are for the waste gate solenoid. Try this video ua-cam.com/video/XdAUfeqp9b8/v-deo.html
What book do you have I can’t find one that covers a Diesel engine like your book
If you look in the video description, there is some additional technical information including links to find the GM service manual.
Would you happen to know where the ign-e fuse wire runs? i am working on a rig that a knucklehead rewired poorly and that is last wire i can't figure where it is supposed to go. the wire i have is broken off by the fuel filter.
No not offhand, your best bet to figuring this out would be the engine wiring schematics in the factory service manual.
Dr Shock off topic but can you recommend a source for quality remanned injection pump 99 6.5 ?
Also do you know the codes it will throw for a bad pump my mech did I diagnostic and I want to compare codes to verify he's correct?
Thanks for the great in depth vids!!!
Personally, I'd buy a replacement IP from rockauto.com and I'd go with the ACDelco reman version. My second choice supplier would be Delphi. The reason for rockauto is no haggle return policy, decent core credit amounts, and solid long term reputation as a parts retailer. The reason I'd go with ACDelco or Delphi is OEM quality (btw Stanadyne was the actual OEM but they only sold new not reman). The GM number on that 1999 IP is 19209059. I would not let a GM dealer install this part, the techs who know this engine are long gone/retired in most cases. If I wasn't doing it myself, I'd have a Stanadyne shop do it (it requires special wrenches to adjust the timing and access to a GM Tech2 scanner to initiate the TDC offset relearn). Not a DIY unless you have access to those tools.
Ive installed 8 in the past 2 months pensacola keeps sending me lemons the first one had bad optic sensor this one lost pressure and wont stay running it just keeps stalling in like 3 seconds.
Hi Dr shock thank you for all the vids they've helped me allot I have a 98 6.5 v.i.n F .. is there any way using a multi meter to set timing on optic sensor? Your help is greatly appreciated.
Not that I'm aware of. You would typically scribe/scratch the original sensor location _before_ removing it to replace. A Tech2 scan tool would be needed to correctly adjust it from there.
@@DrShock ok... thank you.
what is the purpose of the crank position sensor?
Used by the engine computer / powertrain control module to determine the position of the crankshaft and its rotational speed. The firmware in the computer takes this information into account when setting fuel injection and timing parameters. This is why scan tool setting of the top dead center (TDC) offset is associated with replacing this part.
Why they engineer everything so poorly is a true mystery the engineers really destroy stuff and get over paid to screw a lot of stuff up.these sensors are useless complications of insanity.
I have a high Idle 1300 RPM
After i change the crankshaft sensor
Can you share where I can get a Tech 2 scanner
There's a link in the video description where you might find one.
Where can I get tech manual
GM has always sold the hard copy service manuals thru www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=helm&class%5F2=CHV but they discontinued alot of the older models awhile ago. You can sometimes find them on eBay at this affiliate search link - ebay.us/z5cENd
My 6.5 doesn't heat up to 170F unless it's 80F outside air temperature running on high rpms
Thermostat may be stuck open or you have a faulty gauge/sensor
Приветствую! Подскажите пожалуйста вашему русскому подписчику!) Не могу найти достоверной информации! Мой субурбан 6.5 дизель выдает ошибки по блинк коду, 19 и 78, что они значат? Спасибо!
In English, asking about ODBI blink codes 19 and 78. 78 is a wastegate solenoid fault. 19 is a crankshaft position reference error. The 19 you may be in the right video for already ;-) For the 78 this might help - ua-cam.com/video/XdAUfeqp9b8/v-deo.html In Russian, 78 - неисправность соленоида вестгейта. 19 представляет собой коленчатый референтное положение ошибки. Для тех 19, которые вы уже можете увидеть в нужном видео ;-) Для 78 это может помочь - ua-cam.com/video/XdAUfeqp9b8/v-deo.html
@@DrShock огромное спасибо!!!
А на 1995год такой сенсер подойдёт?
Да, номер детали, который я указываю в описании, относится к 1994 г. и новее. Но вид разборки в видео только для 1996 года и новее.
Yes, the part number I use in the description is for 1994 and up. But the disassembly procedure in the video is only the same for 1996 and newer.
@@DrShock спасибо!
Hello Lois
Audio leveling like OMG!!!
Would give no power to the fuse box inside the truck
Give its tap break the seal
He