PSA: Crystal Radio, Devious Bad Part Problem Pt 1 - Spread The Word ua-cam.com/video/QqOI681YpQQ/v-deo.html PSA: Crystal Radio-Bad Earphones Pt2-Teardown & Compare (4K) ua-cam.com/video/yBxo8CaY4HY/v-deo.html
It appears that you could grind a small notch in the inside of the case where the emitter sits to get the copper ribbon clearance you need instead of drilling the case before liquid or resoldering. This is an interesting scenario. I think you're really onto something.
What a shame I didn't see this video before. I just received two Taiwanese headphones and they stopped working after about a minute. But, here's the good news, after half an hour of testing, I discovered that just giving them a hit, they worked again and so far they haven't failed again. It must be an old school style repair. :-DDDD
@@tsbrownie It's true, they have failed again. Thinking about a possible solution, I saw the possibility of buying new piezoelectrics, since they are very cheap. And I just saw that you have found the same solution in another later video. All the best.
How if i make my own feedback electrode by dividing (scraping) the single layer of the silver electrode into two parts so that no any wires disturb the diaphragm vibration balance. Also if i use only a single strand of wire (of each Cable) of the remaining length of the cable after the cable knot inside the housing to the Piezo element ceramic so there's almost nothing pressing to the diaphragm
Some people have recommended to order bigger piezo plates and make them your self. I have also heard it might be possible to solder on aluminum if you sand it and cover the spot with stearine from candle, then solder it under the stearine.
I have thought about making my own. I've got all the parts to do it ranging from small to really big. Just need time. I've tried to solder aluminum from youtube videos and did not have much luck. I think a lot of the people doing it are just getting the flux to stick between the can and solder. I've never seen anyone test the electrical conductivity after they are done "soldering."
@@tsbrownie Looks like the piezo is the cheapest way to go with these. But it's also very tricky to solder on the crystal in it if needed, cause it can't take that much heat. With aluminum it's needed to work very fast, cause it will oxidate in seconds. Open air with heat will oxidate it even faster. One Russian forum post recommended to use DEM-4M element and fill the closure with 14000-15000 turns of 0.03mm wire. But it seems a bit expensive and too much work :D One way is to use 240v to 10v transformer (or 120v to 5v) for the impedance matching for regular headphones, or one big +4" magnet speaker with good closure.
@@tsbrownie This is a complicated but interesting topic to study. There is a good article how they used to do it back in the days, called The Rochelle-Salt Crystal Reproducer. People say that Rochelle salt crystal that is hardened with alcohol would make louder sound. Peebles originals has some good old articles how to make mechanical amplifiers for the piezo. They are on the Info & Articles section. They also have build instructions for Styrophone crystal loud speakers. It would be nice to build those, but I live in Finland and we don't even have the AM here :/ I'm studying how to make FM rectenna to run 1.5v FM / mp3 player. I think the circuit is possible to make by cutting a thick aluminum foil that is glued on paper. Then adding transistors like BFP740 or other germanium. It's said that transistors have lower forward voltage drop. I'm trying to keep the design easy and affordable, so no vintage germanium, or 1N21WE super diodes for me :D BillyDIY also has some good circuits for the short wave too.
I think this may be my issue. I have made a CR exactly as the video on YouTub showed. I can only get a pop out of it now and then. Mine is a Taiwan made one also. I just ordered the brass soldered upgraded version. Seems they know the Fed up and are now making them correctly.
PSA: Crystal Radio, Devious Bad Part Problem Pt 1 - Spread The Word ua-cam.com/video/QqOI681YpQQ/v-deo.html
PSA: Crystal Radio-Bad Earphones Pt2-Teardown & Compare (4K) ua-cam.com/video/yBxo8CaY4HY/v-deo.html
It appears that you could grind a small notch in the inside of the case where the emitter sits to get the copper ribbon clearance you need instead of drilling the case before liquid or resoldering. This is an interesting scenario. I think you're really onto something.
Very nice explain
Thank you.
What a shame I didn't see this video before. I just received two Taiwanese headphones and they stopped working after about a minute. But, here's the good news, after half an hour of testing, I discovered that just giving them a hit, they worked again and so far they haven't failed again.
It must be an old school style repair. :-DDDD
They will work for a while, but then they quit unpredictably. I and another commenter have the same experience.
@@tsbrownie It's true, they have failed again. Thinking about a possible solution, I saw the possibility of buying new piezoelectrics, since they are very cheap. And I just saw that you have found the same solution in another later video. All the best.
@@elmerseiscientos Seems like we all find the same path. Probably because there are so few workable paths to choose.
Solder the wire direct on the piezo element. Thanks for the info
I have never been able to solder to aluminum.
@@tsbrownie on the base of the element like the japan is done.
How if i make my own feedback electrode by dividing (scraping) the single layer of the silver electrode into two parts so that no any wires disturb the diaphragm vibration balance.
Also if i use only a single strand of wire (of each Cable) of the remaining length of the cable after the cable knot inside the housing to the Piezo element ceramic so there's almost nothing pressing to the diaphragm
Some people have recommended to order bigger piezo plates and make them your self. I have also heard it might be possible to solder on aluminum if you sand it and cover the spot with stearine from candle, then solder it under the stearine.
I have thought about making my own. I've got all the parts to do it ranging from small to really big. Just need time. I've tried to solder aluminum from youtube videos and did not have much luck. I think a lot of the people doing it are just getting the flux to stick between the can and solder. I've never seen anyone test the electrical conductivity after they are done "soldering."
@@tsbrownie Looks like the piezo is the cheapest way to go with these. But it's also very tricky to solder on the crystal in it if needed, cause it can't take that much heat. With aluminum it's needed to work very fast, cause it will oxidate in seconds. Open air with heat will oxidate it even faster.
One Russian forum post recommended to use DEM-4M element and fill the closure with 14000-15000 turns of 0.03mm wire. But it seems a bit expensive and too much work :D
One way is to use 240v to 10v transformer (or 120v to 5v) for the impedance matching for regular headphones, or one big +4" magnet speaker with good closure.
@@Kangsteri I was looking for my box with impedance matching transformers a couple days ago and got distracted. I do need to try that.
@@tsbrownie This is a complicated but interesting topic to study. There is a good article how they used to do it back in the days, called The Rochelle-Salt Crystal Reproducer. People say that Rochelle salt crystal that is hardened with alcohol would make louder sound. Peebles originals has some good old articles how to make mechanical amplifiers for the piezo. They are on the Info & Articles section. They also have build instructions for Styrophone crystal loud speakers.
It would be nice to build those, but I live in Finland and we don't even have the AM here :/ I'm studying how to make FM rectenna to run 1.5v FM / mp3 player. I think the circuit is possible to make by cutting a thick aluminum foil that is glued on paper. Then adding transistors like BFP740 or other germanium. It's said that transistors have lower forward voltage drop. I'm trying to keep the design easy and affordable, so no vintage germanium, or 1N21WE super diodes for me :D BillyDIY also has some good circuits for the short wave too.
I think this may be my issue. I have made a CR exactly as the video on YouTub showed. I can only get a pop out of it now and then. Mine is a Taiwan made one also. I just ordered the brass soldered upgraded version. Seems they know the Fed up and are now making them correctly.