Better to keep the rpm above 2k while climbing. Gets the coolant circulating faster and is easier on the trans, drop it into manual 5 and stay out of 5th and 6th as much as you can. Awesome truck, I've got an 06 lbz
Exactly i came back from California the day before yesterday and climbing the passed with 14000lbs behind me i was keeping it under 215 degrees and didn’t let me egt’s get over 1200 “2002 LB7”
Im just sharing what I've learned. Not trying to sound like a know-it-all. Low end torque keeps you moving but high RPM horsepower is what gets you up the hill. Lugging these trucks while pulling steep grades is harder on them then high RPM pulling. More RPM means coolant is moving through the cooling system faster helping to disperse the heat. Turbo is spooling harder and in it's "powr band". Air is moving over the stack faster. And the higher RPM is where the horsepower needed for acceleration comes in. Great video. Love the truck. Miss my LBZ. Currently in a 13 lml with 90 hp tow tune.
Cool pull there. Need a pyrometer. Not hard to add. Yea, so lower rpm isn't necessarily better for the engine in every situation. In this scenario, dropping to a lower gear which would raise to a higher rpm would actually be easier on the engine. The pyrometer would indicate that by a dropping EGT temp. "Lugging" is trying to drive in a higher gear than the engine is happy about. You don't want to lug while towing. Those low rpms are hot as hell and that can ruin an engine. Anything over 1200-1300F on the EGT, u should lower the gear, raise the rpms, and watch the EGTs drop. If u need to test your coolant system for leaks, try a radiator pressure tester kit. That makes injecting air much simpler. Or a hillbilly pressure test would be to just use your air compressor to shoot air into the system. Take off the coolant bottle cap, try stuffing the spout with a towel or something like that as you poke your air nozzle in and pump air into the system like 20-30psi. An adapter that makes an airtight seal is ideal, as would come with a kit. Listen/watch for leaks while pressurized. If it can hold 20-30 psi steady for a little while without leaking air or water, good to go. Also u should notice a lower fluid level in the coolant bottle next time the engine is cool if a leak occurred while it was last hot. If u wanna go nuts with it, split up the coolant duties and add a liquid 2 air intercooler. Climbing is especially rough since the air blowing through the grill is slower compared to 70-80 mph cruising. This isn't just rough on the coolant system, it's rough on your charged air temps also. These trucks only come stock with an air 2 air intercooler which needs air speed and/or the front fan to kick on in order to be effective. So accelerating from a standstill, or climbing with a heavy load is limiting your engine's capability by a large amount because the stock intercooler isn't effective when you need it the most. Solution: add one or two liquid 2 air intercoolers after the turbo compressor, before the stock intercooler, on the hot side. This will require adding another separate coolant loop, including another overflow coolant bottle, another smaller radiator with a fan, an electric water pump, and hoses/wires/sensors/relays the works. You can also use this extra coolant loop to cool the transmission separately, relieving your main coolant loop from having to cool it. Just remove the stock trans lines from the stock radiator tank, then use 1 or 2 plate heat exchangers to make the auxiliary coolant loop cool the trans fluid. U can get a good radiator/fan/relay kit for cooling the aux loop from online. Derale, flexalite, and spal make great little radiators with fans in a kit. Run two of those in series underneath or in back of truck if need be. Then your main coolant loop would only have to cool the engine and oil, not the trans too anymore. The improvement in intercooling by adding the two liquid intercoolers in series before the stock air intercooler should make such an improvement in power that it feels like you've added a second turbo. Also you'll have that power at all speeds and inclines, regardless of airspeed across the front grille. Cheers
I have a 2001 lb7 and all summer long I hauled 20,000 lbs total with 4x5 round bales of hay on a 25ft gooseneck trailer.Serval trips where over 30 miles one way. Never had any problems. Up and down hills it average about 2500 rpms I always use the tow mode.
Install the fan clutch from the GMC Kodiak same year. Will engage the fan clutch around 205/210 and keep temps lower. Installed on my LBZ and fixed these issues and never worry about getting above 220 anymore.
@Brock Kies it gets to temp no problem still. I live in Arizona, PHX so we don't get cold as other places. But when it's 115 outside and towing, I don't go above 210 anymore as fan engage so much sooner.
Our fifth wheel is about 13,000lbs and my LBZ would get hot towing it last year. There's a long steep grade going to the lake we like to go to and it would get a little hot. Truck had 450k miles on it, turbo veins were clogged. So I replaced the turbo in it. Put a Mishimoto radiator in it. Hoping that helps the cooling issue. It seems to run about 10 degrees cooler or more when I'm not towing so I think it may help the problem. Will post back with results when I have a chance to tow it this summer. Let you know if it makes a difference or not.
@@stn7172 Not yet. Have yet to get the camper out so far this season. I did pull a trailer loaded with a car yesterday, air conditioner on and towed it up some steep grades and never got hot on me. Hopefully here in two weeks I'll be able to tell you with the camper on
I towed my 18,000 lb Solitude around N Carolina/ Tennessee mountains last year and my LBZ never got hot. 26,500 total rig. Max boost I noticed was 25 psi. Towed on CTS 2 # 2 tow mode. It added about 40+ hp and 60+ of.
@@HomeOnWheels320MKS Don’t know cuz I didn’t have the probe installed at that time. I mostly wheat off the coolant temp and tranny temp. I never pushed it over 65 as I found that’s the sweet spot for best fuel mileage. On the flats I got 12 mpg and thru the mountains it was about 10 mpg. With a straight pipe and 25 lbs of boost it was screaming up those roads. Get going before you hit the incline and keep the rpm’s up and that thing will move. Felt awesome passing all the semi’s.
Same happened to my chevy, turned out one of the heater hose clamp was about two turns from being completely tight. It was the hard one to get to so probably factory.
I have an 06 LBZ. Its been good to me the drive train and engine is bone stock. I hope your truck is fine. Ive had no magor isues. Im the original owner and its my work truck and daily driver.
How’s your thermostats? Because my truck doesn’t run that hot going up hill pulling 14000lbs and your fan should have kicked in sooner. Just my thoughts..
thermostats are about 4 years old or around 30,000 miles, but the issue on that was the hose was leaking coolant most likely causing water pump to cavitate.
WOW Too much trailer, not enough truck I have a Kodiak C4500 for that much trailer Do you have a fass fuel pump system on there that’s gonna help your engine your injectors and the longevity of your engine and your fuel pump what kills that motor is overheating
I just had the similar issue has happened to me for the coolant light,i recenttly did a 8 hrs trip ti Dumont dunes ca, I was towing heavy and motor got to about 180 I noticed it’s spilled out coolant from right hand side looks like it’s was done overflow tank , low coolant light kicked on as well and topped its off, I was worried it might be head gasket, but no white smoke nor milky oil, I towed about 11k toyhauler filled with water fuel and Rzr , gas mileage was about 13.7-13.9 my LBZ has 165k miles, and did the same thing on my way home only mod is dsp5, tune did you ever find out deeper if that coolant leak was a something else?
U need to learn to gear down while ur climbing. Stop lowering rpm. That is what creates heat. Gear that bitch down, u shouldn’t be in overdrive at all unless ur doing 70 plus. Ul notice if u learn how to pull grades and keep it geared down u won’t get hot. Ur creating the heat tryin to keep rpm low. U need to pull grades at 2k rpm atleast. Ul keep cool, and prevent future damage. They’re built to be ran hard. Lugging arouns is the worst thing for them
Remember the more rpm the more air ur pulling thru the cooling stack. Ur heat soaking the engine compartment trying to keep low rpm’s up grades. Not to mention ur gonna glaze ur 6th gear clutches pulling heavy up steep grades in and out of 6. Some won’t even use 6 gear on flats with a load. Keep it heated down next time. 2k rpm minimum and ur truck will be much happier
Better to keep the rpm above 2k while climbing. Gets the coolant circulating faster and is easier on the trans, drop it into manual 5 and stay out of 5th and 6th as much as you can. Awesome truck, I've got an 06 lbz
You need to drop a gear to keep the rpms higher and allow that turbo to spin more helping to lower the EGTs.
Exactly i came back from California the day before yesterday and climbing the passed with 14000lbs behind me i was keeping it under 215 degrees and didn’t let me egt’s get over 1200 “2002 LB7”
My Cummins doesn’t care I’ve been lugging it for almost 17 years and the pyro is always in the red….
@@chuckschob107 OH ok, you're special. I'm sure if you keep it at 1400 plus degrees sustained, you'll pop a head gasket or melt parts.
Im just sharing what I've learned. Not trying to sound like a know-it-all. Low end torque keeps you moving but high RPM horsepower is what gets you up the hill. Lugging these trucks while pulling steep grades is harder on them then high RPM pulling. More RPM means coolant is moving through the cooling system faster helping to disperse the heat. Turbo is spooling harder and in it's "powr band". Air is moving over the stack faster. And the higher RPM is where the horsepower needed for acceleration comes in. Great video. Love the truck. Miss my LBZ. Currently in a 13 lml with 90 hp tow tune.
Cool pull there. Need a pyrometer. Not hard to add. Yea, so lower rpm isn't necessarily better for the engine in every situation. In this scenario, dropping to a lower gear which would raise to a higher rpm would actually be easier on the engine. The pyrometer would indicate that by a dropping EGT temp. "Lugging" is trying to drive in a higher gear than the engine is happy about. You don't want to lug while towing. Those low rpms are hot as hell and that can ruin an engine. Anything over 1200-1300F on the EGT, u should lower the gear, raise the rpms, and watch the EGTs drop. If u need to test your coolant system for leaks, try a radiator pressure tester kit. That makes injecting air much simpler. Or a hillbilly pressure test would be to just use your air compressor to shoot air into the system. Take off the coolant bottle cap, try stuffing the spout with a towel or something like that as you poke your air nozzle in and pump air into the system like 20-30psi. An adapter that makes an airtight seal is ideal, as would come with a kit. Listen/watch for leaks while pressurized. If it can hold 20-30 psi steady for a little while without leaking air or water, good to go. Also u should notice a lower fluid level in the coolant bottle next time the engine is cool if a leak occurred while it was last hot. If u wanna go nuts with it, split up the coolant duties and add a liquid 2 air intercooler. Climbing is especially rough since the air blowing through the grill is slower compared to 70-80 mph cruising. This isn't just rough on the coolant system, it's rough on your charged air temps also. These trucks only come stock with an air 2 air intercooler which needs air speed and/or the front fan to kick on in order to be effective. So accelerating from a standstill, or climbing with a heavy load is limiting your engine's capability by a large amount because the stock intercooler isn't effective when you need it the most. Solution: add one or two liquid 2 air intercoolers after the turbo compressor, before the stock intercooler, on the hot side. This will require adding another separate coolant loop, including another overflow coolant bottle, another smaller radiator with a fan, an electric water pump, and hoses/wires/sensors/relays the works. You can also use this extra coolant loop to cool the transmission separately, relieving your main coolant loop from having to cool it. Just remove the stock trans lines from the stock radiator tank, then use 1 or 2 plate heat exchangers to make the auxiliary coolant loop cool the trans fluid. U can get a good radiator/fan/relay kit for cooling the aux loop from online. Derale, flexalite, and spal make great little radiators with fans in a kit. Run two of those in series underneath or in back of truck if need be. Then your main coolant loop would only have to cool the engine and oil, not the trans too anymore. The improvement in intercooling by adding the two liquid intercoolers in series before the stock air intercooler should make such an improvement in power that it feels like you've added a second turbo. Also you'll have that power at all speeds and inclines, regardless of airspeed across the front grille. Cheers
hey good write up! thank you
This is an incredible comment. Thanks for posting. Saving this video just for this comment alone.
I have a 2001 lb7 and all summer long I hauled 20,000 lbs total with 4x5 round bales of hay on a 25ft gooseneck trailer.Serval trips where over 30 miles one way. Never had any problems. Up and down hills it average about 2500 rpms I always use the tow mode.
Install the fan clutch from the GMC Kodiak same year. Will engage the fan clutch around 205/210 and keep temps lower. Installed on my LBZ and fixed these issues and never worry about getting above 220 anymore.
Does it take forever for your heater to kick on and warm up in cooler temperatures with that set up?
@Brock Kies it gets to temp no problem still. I live in Arizona, PHX so we don't get cold as other places. But when it's 115 outside and towing, I don't go above 210 anymore as fan engage so much sooner.
Our fifth wheel is about 13,000lbs and my LBZ would get hot towing it last year. There's a long steep grade going to the lake we like to go to and it would get a little hot. Truck had 450k miles on it, turbo veins were clogged. So I replaced the turbo in it. Put a Mishimoto radiator in it. Hoping that helps the cooling issue. It seems to run about 10 degrees cooler or more when I'm not towing so I think it may help the problem. Will post back with results when I have a chance to tow it this summer. Let you know if it makes a difference or not.
mine was getting hot consistently until I took off the radiator and cleaned it. took a while but it made a huge difference.
Brock any updates?
@@stn7172 Not yet. Have yet to get the camper out so far this season. I did pull a trailer loaded with a car yesterday, air conditioner on and towed it up some steep grades and never got hot on me. Hopefully here in two weeks I'll be able to tell you with the camper on
@@brockkies8566what about now brock any updates now?
I towed my 18,000 lb Solitude around N Carolina/ Tennessee mountains last year and my LBZ never got hot. 26,500 total rig. Max boost I noticed was 25 psi. Towed on CTS 2 # 2 tow mode. It added about 40+ hp and 60+ of.
Do you remember what your EGT was? I set my max at 1350F, with the probe located at the rear cylinder exhaust manifold discharge passenger side.
@@HomeOnWheels320MKS
Don’t know cuz I didn’t have the probe installed at that time. I mostly wheat off the coolant temp and tranny temp. I never pushed it over 65 as I found that’s the sweet spot for best fuel mileage. On the flats I got 12 mpg and thru the mountains it was about 10 mpg. With a straight pipe and 25 lbs of boost it was screaming up those roads. Get going before you hit the incline and keep the rpm’s up and that thing will move. Felt awesome passing all the semi’s.
haha looking to do something very similar and this gives me the confidence to do it. Thanks for the video!
Same happened to my chevy, turned out one of the heater hose clamp was about two turns from being completely tight. It was the hard one to get to so probably factory.
I have an 06 LBZ. Its been good to me the drive train and engine is bone stock. I hope your truck is fine. Ive had no magor isues. Im the original owner and its my work truck and daily driver.
They are solid trucks!
You need a new fan clutch. My brand new one from dealer kicks on around 218
What is that digital gauge device on the left of your dash? Looks very helpful. Where can I buy? It blends in nicely to the truck.
It is a CTS edge tuner. the dash pod im not sure if they still make that but to be honest it came with the truck when I bought it about 4 years ago.
How’s your thermostats? Because my truck doesn’t run that hot going up hill pulling 14000lbs and your fan should have kicked in sooner.
Just my thoughts..
thermostats are about 4 years old or around 30,000 miles, but the issue on that was the hose was leaking coolant most likely causing water pump to cavitate.
WOW
Too much trailer, not enough truck
I have a Kodiak C4500 for that much trailer
Do you have a fass fuel pump system on there that’s gonna help your engine your injectors and the longevity of your engine and your fuel pump what kills that motor is overheating
I have an airdog lift pump!
You should move to Minnesota because camping in Minnesota is good
I would love to but I am Canadian.
What's up with your oil pressure?
Would be interesting to see someone hold their truck wide open going up the hill with a load
Thanks for sharing.
I'm gonna make another comment about gearing down. Higher engine speed means less strain, and probably less oil consumption.
Do you know the pin weight?
I just had the similar issue has happened to me for the coolant light,i recenttly did a 8 hrs trip ti Dumont dunes ca, I was towing heavy and motor got to about 180 I noticed it’s spilled out coolant from right hand side looks like it’s was done overflow tank , low coolant light kicked on as well and topped its off, I was worried it might be head gasket, but no white smoke nor milky oil, I towed about 11k toyhauler filled with water fuel and Rzr , gas mileage was about 13.7-13.9 my LBZ has 165k miles, and did the same thing on my way home only mod is dsp5, tune did you ever find out deeper if that coolant leak was a something else?
mine was just a coolant leak. i did have to replace that hose after the video but its been running great for some time towed 16 hours as well
you doggin that ole' girl. why arent you looking at egts??
What mods does the truck all have?
the truck is deleted. with a full y bridge and up/ down pipe. it has a 4inch exhaust with a muffler, and a motorops efi live tune.
Let the truck work where it wants to. Better for the truck in higher rpm.
U need to learn to gear down while ur climbing. Stop lowering rpm. That is what creates heat. Gear that bitch down, u shouldn’t be in overdrive at all unless ur doing 70 plus. Ul notice if u learn how to pull grades and keep it geared down u won’t get hot. Ur creating the heat tryin to keep rpm low. U need to pull grades at 2k rpm atleast. Ul keep cool, and prevent future damage. They’re built to be ran hard. Lugging arouns is the worst thing for them
Remember the more rpm the more air ur pulling thru the cooling stack. Ur heat soaking the engine compartment trying to keep low rpm’s up grades. Not to mention ur gonna glaze ur 6th gear clutches pulling heavy up steep grades in and out of 6. Some won’t even use 6 gear on flats with a load. Keep it heated down next time. 2k rpm minimum and ur truck will be much happier
Lbzed!! Lol😂
Can you make a video doing this in january on a snowy day??
Haha I wouldn't dare to attempt that. I do that drive all the time with just the truck and unless its snowing there isn't any trailer issues