I find old bicycle inner tubes can be really handy in lots of ways. They're most useful when you need to clamp a very oddly shaped item, and regular clamps will either damage the surface due to uneven pressure, or simply won't stay in place. If you wrap an inner tube tightly around something multiple times, it exerts an incredible amount of clamping pressure. You can typically secure the ends with a small spring clamp or tape. You can also use the inner tubes as cushions on vice jaws as opposed to leather, or cut them into small pieces to use as heavy duty rubber bands.
Playing cards. Used them all the time as shims when I was a trim carpenter. Place one on either side of the chop saw bed to angle a cut just a little bit more. Place underneath a hinge or lock set to help bring it flush to the surface. And toothpicks for filling in stripped out screw holes.
I picked up a deck of playing cards after hearing that they could be used to set the depth of guitar strings where they should be above some of the frets. Since I haven't gotten into fretting, yet, they're still unopened in my shop. =)
Rubber band ropes - I tie rubber bands end-to-end to create ropes for wrapping things like boxes or frames. Infinitely adjustable pressure with no worries about squeeze out attaching it to the project.
as always thank you for the video. my biggest 'gadget' that you didnt mention is probably the silicone grippy shelf liner. i use it to protect my work from scratches or dings when i am setting it down. it also works amazing in a vise to prevent any slipping. i also keep alot of magnets around
Anti skid stuff for rugs is handy, although not the best for glueing to things. I use it under my granite slab and portable engineers vises and in place of leather for shop tasks because you can cut it with scissors. The really thin stuff is best, the more common thicker stuff i find is too squishy for a lot of applications.
Mechanics dish with magnetic base. Keeps small metal items (screws, Allen keys, small drill bits etc) where I left them on the bench, and not hiding in the shavings on the floor.
I'm a gunsmith/ Stock maker and I think you have a great idea with the self adhesive sand paper. I also like to use for grits up to 600 the belts used in belt sanders. I just cut off from the belt what I need. They use a better quality of backing, and adhesive which makes them last longer. They also have a stiffer back and glue to a board or dowel for sanding blocks.
I first heard about the blue tape/super glue trick from Crimson Guitars where he found it out from one of his apprentices. I’ve passed it on to many of my favourite online woodworkers and I truly thank you Rob. You might not have picked it up from my telling you but you are the first I’ve passed it on to that hasn’t claimed it as their own and I admire you even more for your continuing integrity, good man.
RobCosman.com I have one that is LED and very bright and no heat output plus has a large magnifying lens in the centre.....I use that a lot......cheers from Aus
Great tip! Most people don’t realize how much good light improves your ability to see. A good, bright full spectrum LED lamp that you can move to highlight your work as you saw and chisel is invaluable. Your loupes or “head gear” will also work better for you if you have good light.
After spending over $100k in tools during my career as an auto tech, I'm actually using quite a few of them when woodworking, more than I would have guessed. These are just some of the "crossover" tools I use; feeler gauges, digital calipers, micrometers, "helping hand" magnifying glass, nitrile rubber gloves, (wood severely dries out my hands, I don't use them when using power tools though,), large C-clamp locking pliers, lead and brass hammers, rubber mallet. That's what I can think of at the moment, but I know there are more.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hey Rob thanks for the insight of sharpening plane blades and setting them up properly. I just left you a comment on sanding inside curves and how to make a tool to do the job a little easier than trying to coil a piece of sand paper around a dowel rod or or a finger.
Diopter means that it is a magnifying glass so both eyes can look through it simultaneously. I love that you made it the number one tip. I need a minimum of a 2.0 in my welding hood. The most readily available are 1.0 to 3.0 in .5 increments. Other increments are available but more difficult to source. Thanks Rob! Keep up the great work.
When I worked in the hardware store/lumber yard I used a tape holder that was magnetic. The tape had a steel disc screwed to it and the holder was plastic with a magnet and it clipped to your belt. Man did I love that, plus if someone borrowed your tape you always got it back because they could not clip it to there belt.
I have found an excellent tool for holding down my new chiseles as I hand flattened them. It's a five-ounce, three-inch-diameter, hand-stiched, rawhide sphere called a baseball. Fits very nicely in the hand and allows me to apply pressure with my palm rather than fingers.
Since I was little I loved to do technical drawing, streets, houses, etc... and my father is also fond of gadgets... He bought me once in a Bookstore a PROPORTIONAL DIVIDER... to me is an awesome thing to have and takes away all the guess work of dividing in parts a line or divide a circle in X amount of sections. On woodwork is no exception, specially in little boxes or when designing a tenon or a mortise or when making a layout of dovetails. Just dial the division You want to make and on the other side, you have it... no calculations no guessing, saves so much time... I wonder why I haven´t seen it more often being used.... Awesome little gadget...
I would have to include my remote switch for my Dust collection. Total game changer in the shop. Saves me time walking to and from. Not sure how I went so long without one.
I’m a carpenter and for the last 30 or so years have always had a piece of white Formica I cut to the size of my Fat Max tape measure and epoxy it on the the side and it becomes a little scratch pad to write down measurements. Because the area is limited I’ve come up with my own form of shorthand symbols for shapes & words. I’m now 65 and couldn’t remember numbers from one second to the next while I’m concentrating on something else. You can always use a scrap piece of wood, but the tape is always with you no matter where. Erase it with a bit of spit & rub. Nobody will want to steal your tape then.
Jerry, thanks for the tip. I’ve just retired due to health issues & am going crazy in my Shed/workshop trying to learn a dozen trades in shortest time possible. Thanks for the tip. Pity it’s midnight here in Canberra & neighbours will get a little irate if I start work now... Kind regards from Australia Mark
The flat metal ‘bristles’ from a rotary street sweeper can often be found in the gutter around town. I always pick ‘em up. Hardened steel, thin and stiff, they’ll even take an edge to make a tiny chisel or a burr as a tiny scraper in a corner. Fit a handle; 101 uses.
I think you may have overlooked your actual number 1 tool. You have had it with you every time I’ve watched you. It’s your apron. It gives you some minor protection and you are constantly reaching in to it to retrieve things. 😉👍🏻
My small tip for what it’s worth, I bought some blackboard paint and painted the inside top half of the entry door to my workshop, next to my minuscule bench, and turned the back of the door into a blackboard. A small holder for chalk and a duster and I cannot tell you how incredibly valuable it has become for jotting down quick ideas, measurements, quick drawings of parts etc. it is truly astounding how often I use it now to the point that I also made up two more on framed boards that hang on the bottom half of the door that I can unhook and carry to other parts of the workshop and prop up so I can see the measurements or whatever right where I’m working. Seriously, try it. I didn’t think it would be anything but a bit of a lark when I first painted it but now it’s indispensable in my daily workflow and hopefully it will help yours too. Tho you might need to hang yours upside down to mine as down here in Australia things are right side up so . . . . 😎
I have a bunch of vinyl 12" squares in my shop. I place them under legs when painting or staining to keep assembly table clean. Works better than paper, wax paper, or other methods.
Machinists 1-2-3 blocks. I use them for machine setup and calibration, alternative squares, stop blocks, drawer slide spacing and a few other uses. I also use Scotchbrite pads for quick removal of light surface rust.
@R Dalton I also use my 123 block with a couple of magnets to set a 1" offset from my table saw fence. Use the table saw fence to set the crosscut + 1" and place the 123 block left of the front of fence best the front.
Scotchbrite pads, especially green, are excellent for removing those dust nubs in wipe on finishes (satin). According to the 3M website, the green is akin to 320 grit. But I've never had a problem with objectionable scratches.
painters tape and CA glue. If your wood work its a must combo. I do alot of prefinished and raw woodworking that sometimes requires routing with templates. This method lets you put a template on the work surface and protected from the glue no nails or clampes required and just pull off when done
I will be buying that polishing putty. Arithma Addiator for doing adding and subtraction. You can quickly add and subtract multiple different things at the same time quickly and accurately. Also if you can get it dry ice blasting, non abrasive way of removing unwanted surface material. No sand dust.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sure it's a old German device used specifically for addition and subtraction. You use a metal pen stylus to "write" in the numbers for calculator. Made a couple videos for you to see it in action. ua-cam.com/video/Saresftldxo/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/NuysN07M2GI/v-deo.html
I'm right there with you on the necessity of keeping an assortment of tapes in the shop. Unlike you, i don't buy adhesive backed roll sandpaper for making sanding blocks. I use 3 inch wide double sided tape by Venture together with regular sandpaper. I just cut a piece of tape slightly oversize, trim it to exact size if the block and then add the sandpaper and trim that to match.
Great videos, Sir! My favorite non-traditional "tool" is a bar of soap. Any time I'm driving a woodscrew, especially a brass one, I flick the threads across the soap (you don't need much) and that makes driving so much easier. Some folks use beeswax, but I already had the soap and it (may) be cheaper.
I haven’t seen this mentioned much - usually wax is used now - but this is a tip I learned from my dad when I was a kid and we built shelves using screws (driven by hand back in the day). He’d always have to finish driving the screws as I was too little and didn’t have the strength yet. He learned it from his grandfather, my great grandfather, who was a lifelong professional carpenter and homebuilder in an era before any power tools.
@@robertthomas6127 Guys at our club use them as hinges for small boxes. (they aren't all the same size but cheap enough what you don't use in the pack don't matter)
As a restoration carpenter, I use them to fill old stripped screw holes in door hinges. Drill out hole around the size of the stick. Dip stick in a little glue, stick it in and break it off. Retap with a smaller bit for a new tight fit to last another 100 years!
I picked up a pack of popsicle sticks at Dollar Tree and have been using them for temporary shims and mixing epoxy and such. Used several together to block a ground hornet hole to keep them from escaping while I poisoned it last year. =)
I have used a pair of Weems & Plath Ultralight dividers (#176) for many years as a boat captain. They are accurate and one handed for use plotting on charts. They work great in the workshop.
You know when you want to eye up an object or get the light just right or check a clearance ? I put two 9 inch squares on the wall in front of the bench . One is Black . The other is White. It was very useful to have a choice of contrast .
I am a complete novice but have loved watching a master share his craft. The one thing that I don't have that I notice Rob has and uses all the time but didn't mention is the apron. Now that I am sanding etc and creating all that dust plus I am always wishing I had one of those pockets, I am going to get one right away. Not really a gadget but seems like it would be a great help in the workroom.
My dad was a ship’s carpenter and boat builder. From early childhood I would assist him on all kinda of projects. Starting with cutting down trees to be used in the projects. He taught me so many trick, tips and methods. I still have 3 generations of woodworking tools that I use in my shop. One of the better things he taught me was removing or extraction of old seated screws, spikes and nails in restoration projects. Simply, using a sample squeeze bottle of peroxide and applying it generously around the screw soaking the area. Then allowing some time for capillary action to have it soak in. It saved a lot of effort getting it out neatly and spared the restoration any damage. Hope that helps someone!
GREAT TIPS!!! Glad to see you use the "head gear"; me too. BUT! what to do when the lenses start to fall out! (I struggled for years, because I actually DID want to change them out for diff. diopter), the fit got slopppy with the little rivets holding them in. I mentioned this frustration to my smart son-in-law; in just a minute, he put the lens on the INSIDE; and---boom! no more falling out!! no glue, no other modification. Try it you just might smile.
Silicone basting brushes for larger glue-ups. Even dried (maybe even especially dried), the glue won't stick to them. Some of them are a bit too wobbly, so I cut the "filaments" to about half length.
UK chippy here. The items I always have in my work shorts pockets are: Carpenter's pencils - soft and hard graphite, plus white for hardwoods Quick change brad point pilot bits - it takes a few seconds more to pilot a hole rather than risk splitting the wood. Stanley Sliding Pocket Knife- excellent lightweight utility knife with quick change blades. 6" Combination square - Useful for quick square checks and marking. Cheap reading glasses- I get them from pound (dollar) stores and are throwaway rather than wasting good glasses. Drill bits- Flat, PH2, PZ2, they stay in the pockets and are transferred over to new shorts on wash day!
@@nickm8494 - How odd. Well, considering that they are quite different objects,I imagine the UK naming tradition must cause massive confusion in the hardware store and on job sites LOL.
@@johncoops6897 Not at all, John. I don't use "hardware stores", I use specialist trade and builders merchants and if you ask for either PZ2 bits or HSS bits we all know what we're taking about because we're professionals. lol.
Great video and list, Rob. Hockey tape is awesome! I hadn’t wrapped a hockey stick in 40 years, but when I saw your clamp and screwdriver grips wrapped with hockey tape a few months ago I remembered the technique and ordered some. All my clamps handles are now hockey taped. Now I can clamp projects as hard as I need to without frustrating grip slippage. FWIW, I’m using about 7 or 8 of your tips routinely now, most from watching your videos. Working smarter, not harder!
1-2-3 blocks. Staple setup tool for machinists, but if you want to have a quick right angle for, say, paring a mortice wall, you can just holdfast the 1-2-3 block at the edge and pare away. Plus, for the tolerances you work to in wood, you don't need very expensive blocks. Mine cost around $20 canadian for two (bought from China). Also, machinists' deburring bits - the ones that look like a cone with a single hole cut through perpendicular to the surface. They are the cleanest-cutting counterbore bits out there, far better than the "rose" pattern countersink bits or the ones supplied clamped to the drill bit. Dental picks. You can get a kit of them in a nice wallet pack for a few dollars, and for cleaning out dried glue from awkward corners they are a fantastic tool, but I mostly use mine for cleaning out the grooves when doing line-and-berry inlay work. Self-adhesive coloured dots can be bloody useful when labelling joints. And glu-bot bottles are remarkably good as applicator bottles for glue (and I use the pallette knife trick as well).
Rob, great tips as always! Clarifying on the calipers, you may have mispoken.. the ones you showed are dial calipers, "vernier calipers" refers to the vernier scale on non-dial calipers that allow you to determine the measurement much like an old slide-rule. As you expand them, lines on the vernier scale align to tell you the measurement. The main advantages are that they are cheaper to produce and don't have the sensitive dial that can be bumped out of calibration.
The calipers that Rob showed *WERE* vernier calipers. They also had a dial indicator as well. Nevertheless, at 9:04 he actually stated that they were Dial Calipers.... DOH. Furthermore, everyone uses digital calipers now days. In the world outside the USA, it's so easy because of the use of millimeters. Finally there are now cheap ($20 or so) Fractional calipers that can directly read out fractional inches. Aside from being simple and quick to read, the best thing about digital calipers is the Zero button. Measure one object, and hit zero while still clamped to it. Now measure second object and directly read off the clearance/interference.
@@johncoops6897 Respecfully Sir that is not accurate. I meant no offense and I'm not trying to have a digital debate. I apologize if my comment came across as rude somehow, but I don't think it was written in a negative way. I'm trained in metrology and have some experience using both types. I think we're all here to learn and get better. I have nothing but the utmost respect for Rob. I think that was reflected in my original comment. Dial calipers/digital calipers do also have a scale, but not a Vernier scale. That form of scale was invented by Pierre Vernier and is a really cool invention that allowed for leaps in precision by magnifying errors. It may be a regional semantics thing to call them 'Vernier' colloquially. I was just trying to be precise...like Rob is in his Joinery : - ) . Like I said we're all here to learn. I love Rob's videos and I was simply trying to add to the learning & dialogue.
@@benchtopwoodworks - I know what a Vernier Scale is, and have used Vernier, Dial and now Digital calipers for over 50 years. One of my metric dial calipers also has a vernier scale on the depth bar, so when I saw the etchings on Rob's calipers, I (perhaps falsely) assumed that they had a Vernier scale as well.
The correct name for your calipers is dial calipers. True vernier calipers have a vernier scale and you read the distance by matching where 2 tiny lines line up. They can even make young eyes scream when trying to read them. On some of them the lines can be fine enough it takes a jeweler's loupe to be able to read them.
I use little plastic pipettes. You can get a hundred for a few dollars on Amazon, and they can be reused a couple of times. The very long, very thin tubes allow exact placement.
I use exactly the same thing for injecting glue into the grooves for stringing and inlay. Also, 2-3cc pippettes are really useful for putting resin in exactly the spot you need it for when you're filling knots or defects in either normal woodwork or in woodturning.
I keep a 5 in 1 painters tool in the top drawer. It's great for all kinds of things about the shop - scraping glue or grime from the worktop, opening boxes and cans of finish, spreading wood filler, separating projects being held down with the CA / tape method, cleaning glue from other tools, the list goes on. It's invaluable.
Had to look to see what got missed from everyones list. Most reached for, a pick with a point on one end and a bend on the other, dads old “pinchers” for pulling staples and nails,Digital callipers that read fractions and decimal,and “Uncle Bills” sliver grippers. Learning alot from you Rob,thanks.
My tip that I use. Masking tape or blue painters tape, if its old and tears off the roll, put it in the microwave for 10 seconds, usually works great again.
I took a (Vaughn) pullsaw blade I purchased at Lowe’s and mounted it to one of my larger reciprocating sawblades....(typically a metal cutting one)...I first tried riveting, didn’t hold very well...then I took some bolts (w/nuts) off of an old computer part and tried again... Hallelujah !🙏 Now I can use an actual 12” pullsaw blade with my sawzall! It leaves a very smooth edge and speeds up the cutting process. 👀😅
If you go to restaurant supply places you can get squeeze bottles in a variety of sizes that you clip the top to make the opening the size and angle you want. Great for applying glue and for finish repairs.
Plastic soda straws. I used them to remove excess glue before it dries from the inside of 90 degree joints. When pressed into the joint, the straw conforms to the square joint shape and scoops out almost all of the excess glue.
Just in the last month or two I started taking an interest in working with wood been watching your videos and I have enjoyed them very much I've learned a lot thank you
Stair gauges, the little brass clips designed to attach to a front square to set an angle, are useful. They work to hold two rules together to take precise inside measurements.
I like to keep various bits/tips for my screw gun in the small pocket of my carpenter shorts/pants. However, retrieving them from the bottom of my pocket can be cumbersome. My solution was a small rare earth magnet to keep them all together so when I pull them from my pocket they all come as one unit and I can quickly select the one I need. Recently I started using another magnet outside of my pants to drag what's in my pocket up so I can get a couple of fingertips on them. Hope this helps you out.
Wax paper - to use under glue ups Butcher paper - for patterns & drawing plans Blu tack mastic adhesive putty - holding patterns/pieces, cleaning out grooves, making sure surfaces are dust free prior to applying finishes. Wad a bit around the end of a wire or dowel to retrieve small items from small spaces. Rubber Bands - dozens of uses My number one... Rare Earths Magnets - wrapped in a piece of paper you can easily pick up spilled nails, screws, etc. Just unwrap the magnet with the things inside the paper & you can funnel them into a can.
I use drinking straws to get glue out of corners, but inside and outside corners. Just crease the end and it gets into the corner like a scraper. Cheap and disposable.
For clamping: I have near the bench 20ft rope, 3/16. All kind of wedges. I use a syringe for gluing mortise joints. Cheap lite weight plastic clamps to keep things in place before putting on the heavy clamps. Duct tape. Thanks for this video. The reactions bring out tons of usefull tricks. Great!
I keep tooth picks in my "solve most problems handyman bucket" because, most of the time a screw or nail is loose. I use the tooth picks to dab a little bit of glue in the hole, then I jam tooth picks in the hole to to repack the hole with wood, so the screw or nail has something to grab onto or bite into. I've used this trick on antique furniture, door jams, windows, baseboard, crown molding, cabinets, exterior trim, etc. If it is made of wood, mdf, particle board, plywood, or exterior grade pic, this trick works great!
Bees wax on my cheap planes cuz that’s the only planes I have lol. But man ur so right it makes a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference. It’s like sliding on asphalt vs sliding on ice.
I am not a joiner or carpenter or hand wood worker or really anything but the way you Mr. Rob presenting these things is so nice. Very cool video. Good luck
I love watching your channel on UA-cam and have been doing so now for a while! I am sharing something that I think every wood worker should own, but you may already know or have used this product before. In this video I tried looking at your shop’s tools in the background, and I didn’t see this one amazing and essential tool. That in which I am talking about is called a “Chinese Pull Saw” and the brand I like is made by Vaughan Bear. Now what is amazing about this product is how sharp it stays making cut after cut, and it will always cut through even the hardest of woods like the way a warm knife goes through butter. Also being that is cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke like most traditional saws. This saw will make even the most novice of woodworkers be confident in taking on log rip cuts of wood by hand. Mostly because of how persist and easily it is when cutting different types of woods. Well that’s it for me and I also wanted to say how much I really enjoyed this video! I learned a lot of great tricks I can’t wait to use on my next wood working project! Thanks for sharing your many years of experience and taking the time to make this video for all of us here in UA-cam land!!! Keep up the awesome videos!
I’ve seen close to about 4 or 5 of his videos in total now, and I gotta say I’ve learned a whole lot. I really do enjoy watching all these expert woodworking channels on here. Why do you ask?
My favorite non-woodworking POWER TOOL is an electric pencil sharpener. I find that 3-4 dozen pencils all over my shop has been a very valuable asset. However, sharpening pencils is a chore. But walking over, sticking-zip-sharpen is a whole new level of convenience. Plus, if you have any dowels that need "just a trim" to more easily fit, again, it's stick-zip-done.
Thanks for all videos, I ordered a pair of magnifier glasses a week ago after seeing how much you use them. They are from Lie Nielsen. I use a 5 times , 5 inch magnifying led clamp lamp that fits into my 3/4 inch dog holes in my bench. Great for bench work , sharpening tools and getting slivers out.
A second on the lighted magnifying lamp! I've need using one for so long (starting in electronics over 30 years ago) that I sometimes forget that it is something many people don't have.
I like your must have list ! I have most of those already but I did learn at least one new tip from this. I would add another at least as an honorable mention and that would be a transfer punch set ! When making jigs and fixtures or copying a set of holes they are absolutely critical to have so everything lines up perfectly.
It seems I always need to make small adjustments. Stanley makes the perfect tool, a 1 inch wide chisel that folds to protect the blade (and your leg) and drop in a pocket. It is one of the Fatmax series of tools and the handles are capped with steel and made from what feels like fiber filled nylon. At only $12 - $13.00 I really expected the steel to be inferior, but it takes and keeps an incredible edge. Other brands are available, too. Fastcap, and Morakniv come to mind at a higher price.
I save the preapproved plastic credit cards that come in the mail and use them to spread the glue on bigger projects. Also either wax paper or parchment paper also for glue ups. I put it on my work bench to keep glue from sticking to it and between my pipe clamps and the wood to prevent stains
I own more tape measures than I can count, but I only use one-the FastCap PSSR-25. Like most, it'll measure out to 25 ft. but for those of us using imperial measurement, it shows fractional lengths down to a 16th of an inch. Yes, I can do fractions, but it's soooo much faster getting the correct length with this tape. Try it!
Favorite hand tool: my JessEm marking gauge (made in Canada!). Most precise tool in my shop besides my digital caliper. It has a built-in micro-adjuster as well as preset detents so you never have to mess with a ruler to set it.
You hock tape tip changed my life. I use it on all my hammers, mallets, and saw handles (I use Japanese saws so it fits). The only thing I use that’s not traditional is a few bicycle inner tubes I cut into one long strip each. They are basically giant rubber bands that are great for holding odd shaped parts together or glueing long thin strips like when I put the back on a bow.
I was brought up on the metric system and am somewhat challenged in working with an imperial dial indicator. My favorite solution was finding a dial caliper that actually had the fractions on the dial, rather than thousands of an inch.
a compass. And no, I don't mean calipers. I have been doing a lot of renovation work with buildings, framing, and furniture that don't have straight lines. By using a compass I can transcribe the curve onto an adjoining board and then cut perfectly to the line using a bandsaw. Just a simple one from the dollar store and a super sharp pencil will do the trick.
Hi Rob - I have all of your top ten 'gadgets' and have done for years. My squirrel tail plane is a Kunz but is such a handy plane. I make guitars and this little plane does the jobs no other plane can. As for another item - I have a box of glazers shims which are used in double glazed windows they come in 1mm - 6mm stages and as they are made of PVC they do not damage delicate woods when used to shim a project. I use them under clamps to protect the wood and to shim jigs etc. Great work by the way.
Kurobara/Camellia Oil - lots of uses; I use this to protect any steel that might rust (smother my jointer top with it), I use it as a lubricant when sharpening, & it can be used as a quick finish on a wooden handle.
I use to work in the woods a great deal then moved to the desert. Much to my surprise there are absolutely beautiful wood here. One problem I always had was throughly cleaning the blade of the saw where all of the debris was collected and the saw dust full of oil seemed packed into the area to the point of I had to have a special flat head screwdriver. It took a great deal of time to rid the issue. While walking my dog I came across a very thin piece of metal about 1/4" by about 6 (or better) long and about 1/8' of an ince in thickness. The piece of metal was very strong but flexible. I took the piece of metal to the city I worked at and discovered a couple more pieces of metal near the mechanics work area. When questioned the mechanic told me that the little metal pieces were from the brushes of street sweepers. I cleaned the small pieces and finally turned a handle for a couple and used it to clean the blades. I than began to sharpen the ends and have used it in so many places. I now have several and for a free piece of metal I have discovered a small tool that works for me in many ways.😃😃😃😃
Hey Rob, thanks for the vid. Just wanted to mention playing cards. I use them a lot when, for instance, I want to move my bandsaw fence, just a hair. They measure 11 thou ( at least mine do ), and I love them because of their consistency. I have measured several with digital calipers and they are very consistent in thickness. I keep a deck in the top drawer of my tool chest...:).
I added the hoyle waterproof cards recently. They are almost exactly 1/64th of an inch thick, which is handy for a lot of things, and they are waterproof and glue won’t stick to them, so they last a long time.
1-2-3 blocks are as essential in a wood shop as they are in a machinist shop. They work as a tiny square, a weight, a spacer, and they’re a great aid in setting up router bits and saw blades for a specific depth and/or offset when used in combination with the calipers. Get a set with holes and a set without holes and then just toss an extra set in your amazon cart every time you’re a few bucks away from free shipping.
My favorite use for these is as an offset on the table saw. You can use them when you are using a crosscut sled or miter gauge, easily clamp them (through the holes using a sacrificial fence clamp) to the close end of the rip fence. Then just set the rip fence to 1 inch more than your desired length and you have a precisely dimensioned crosscut and no kickback from pinching the board.
Great video. I am fond of scouring antique shops, garage sales, flea markets, etc. in search of old tools, where I also buy antique, cast iron smoothing irons, once used for ironing clothes. They are so convenient anywhere weight is needed, especially in some glue-up applications. I love the feel of the ergonomic handles that were in use long before that term was coined.
one of the things I use for thin shims in all kinds of applications is the plastic coated playing cards my last trip to Vegas one casino was giving away used ones for free so I got a bunch of packs they work great in all kinds of spots as they are waterproof and do not compress
@@RobCosmanWoodworking another one I have used is tinfoil and with both of these when trying to make it stay where you want it to is wet your finger with a tiny bit of wood glue then wipe back of shim put it in place
Great list. Never thought I’d say this Nick Ferry’s Apple box. Simple box for elevating, clamping, spacing, sitting on, etc. Didn’t see the use of one until I built one and now I use it daily.
I see quite a few of mine here already. Playing cards: shims, epoxy mixing, paint mix color testing, glue spreading. Popsicle sticks/ coffee stir sticks: shims, patch material, fast and cheap mixing spreading sticks. Old CDs: epoxy mixing. Drinking straws: clearing out glue squeeze out. Magnetic instrument base(the ones with the on/off switch): heaven send to hold plane blades and chisels when flattening the back, and also great to pick up metal filings and such. Saddle stool, similar to a low bar stool but with a 'saddle' or bicycle like seat, most commonly used by hair dressers, gives your feet more traction on the ground compared to a bar stool and less 'thigh fatigue'.
Bare-wood golf tees ...useful if a screw hole is in the wrong place and has to be moves a small amount. Glue the tee onto the hole, cut it off flush, and drill the new hole. Works for stripped-out holes as well.
Thanks for the always great and informative videos. I use the blades from a Stanley knife instead of a scraper, don’t have to sharpen them like the scrapers, only use the backside if you’re doing it a lot
Thanks from the UK Rob. A steel rule 300mm, 600mm, 900mm - that's 1 ft, 2 & 3ft to you guys, along with a rule stop - lots of different makes - are great for repetitive marking out, reducing the risk of mis-reading a tape or rule. Please keep up the excellent work.
i discovered using calipers for precision work quite by accident one day while making some cabinets with tolerances that were beyond the scope of even the best tape measure or straight edge. i now use them for all kinds of things.
Yes that's a great one. Actually COL Luther taught me this....you just have to be careful to use only a little bit, too much and it will clump up and your boards wont seat correctly
The people who create Titebond actually recommend against doing this because it can negatively impact the bond created by the glue - there is information about it on their website.
clear box tape can be used to close a miter. you can still see the miter and if you run it in line with the miter it also helps prevent glue squeezing out. I usually use clear along the miter and masking perpendicular. masking has better grip. the two combined are an awesome duo. for small projects... no clamps necessary.
All your tips are great. Here is my take on a couple of them; For cheap shim stock I use soda cans cut up with tin snips. For thicker shims I use tin roaster pans from the grocery store. For the calipers I use digital calipers. Easy to read AND they read in metric or imperial at the push of a button. For tape, a type often overlooked is gaffer tape used by movies, stage and musicians. It may be the strongest tape out there and made to not leave sticky behind when removed. It has a true cloth backing and stretches very little. A little pricy but worth it.
How about some kind of awl for marking hole locations, if you're not drilling with a brad point bit? Those interested in the squirrel-tail plane might find the Veritas Pocket Plane to be a reasonable substitute... with its Norris adjuster, there's no need to tap away at the blade with a little hammer.
Get a pair of surgical loupes such as those made by Designs for Vision. You will not need to put the strap-on thing around your head and you will so quickly get used to them that you will start wearing them around the house. Having done microsurgery and hand surgery for over 30 years I have even found myself wearing them to the bathroom which obviously occasions some humorous comments. I would recommend the 2.5 power and would point out that their customer service is second to none. They're not cheap though. Best wishes and thanks for all the great videos.
I use those Optivisors also, and have found various focal lengths are great. The lenses also are available in GLASS rather than plastic, if you want. Also, you can get a small lens that attaches to the visor and swings onto the right or left eye for up to 10X for magnification. Why would you want that? VERY handy at times. You can inspect very small measurements, also great for looking at cutting edges to see small flaws. And of course for finding and pulling small slivers out of your hands! pretty hard to hold a magnifying glass and tweezers at the same time, especially when the target is on one of your hands!
Oh, baby, you just opened pandorah's box with this IDEAS, idea! I cant afford a dust collector(retired), but I eliminate dust by making dust otside in the airflow of a whole house fan in a homemade 2x4 box. Its cool in the summer, and abolutely clean air no matter what Im grinding( usually 40 grit sidewinder). And its good for the lawn, besides being quiet! Ok, dont get me goin;love your vids!
Awesome video. This is 4 yrs old and I’m new to the craft but it’s still helpful to me. Thank you.
I find old bicycle inner tubes can be really handy in lots of ways. They're most useful when you need to clamp a very oddly shaped item, and regular clamps will either damage the surface due to uneven pressure, or simply won't stay in place. If you wrap an inner tube tightly around something multiple times, it exerts an incredible amount of clamping pressure. You can typically secure the ends with a small spring clamp or tape. You can also use the inner tubes as cushions on vice jaws as opposed to leather, or cut them into small pieces to use as heavy duty rubber bands.
Playing cards. Used them all the time as shims when I was a trim carpenter. Place one on either side of the chop saw bed to angle a cut just a little bit more. Place underneath a hinge or lock set to help bring it flush to the surface. And toothpicks for filling in stripped out screw holes.
Great ideas! Thanks for sharing
I picked up a deck of playing cards after hearing that they could be used to set the depth of guitar strings where they should be above some of the frets. Since I haven't gotten into fretting, yet, they're still unopened in my shop. =)
old credit cards make great shims too.
And matchsticks also for stripped screws
@@jacklarson6281 credit cards are my favorite for spreading glue around... they are thin and flexible, yet very strong.
Rubber band ropes - I tie rubber bands end-to-end to create ropes for wrapping things like boxes or frames. Infinitely adjustable pressure with no worries about squeeze out attaching it to the project.
as always thank you for the video. my biggest 'gadget' that you didnt mention is probably the silicone grippy shelf liner. i use it to protect my work from scratches or dings when i am setting it down. it also works amazing in a vise to prevent any slipping. i also keep alot of magnets around
Your are absolutely right , that's great stuff....Thanks for the tip
I use old carpet pad to protect wood and minimizes slipping.
Anti skid stuff for rugs is handy, although not the best for glueing to things. I use it under my granite slab and portable engineers vises and in place of leather for shop tasks because you can cut it with scissors. The really thin stuff is best, the more common thicker stuff i find is too squishy for a lot of applications.
Mechanics dish with magnetic base. Keeps small metal items (screws, Allen keys, small drill bits etc) where I left them on the bench, and not hiding in the shavings on the floor.
Me too. Free or low cost a Harbor Freight.
I’m a very new beginner, always losing drill bits and screws in the sawdust pile. I never really thought of that! Good idea!
I'm a gunsmith/ Stock maker and I think you have a great idea with the self adhesive sand paper. I also like to use for grits up to 600 the belts used in belt sanders. I just cut off from the belt what I need. They use a better quality of backing, and adhesive which makes them last longer. They also have a stiffer back and glue to a board or dowel for sanding blocks.
Vernier calipers is my go to tool. I use it every time I'm in the shop. You can't beat it for accurate measurements.
I first heard about the blue tape/super glue trick from Crimson Guitars where he found it out from one of his apprentices. I’ve passed it on to many of my favourite online woodworkers and I truly thank you Rob. You might not have picked it up from my telling you but you are the first I’ve passed it on to that hasn’t claimed it as their own and I admire you even more for your continuing integrity, good man.
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I think your bench lamp is very important too !! Using a good light makes my work easier.
I totally agree! OK I am doing another one of these videos to highlight all the stuff I overlooked!
RobCosman.com I have one that is LED and very bright and no heat output plus has a large magnifying lens in the centre.....I use that a lot......cheers from Aus
Great tip! Most people don’t realize how much good light improves your ability to see. A good, bright full spectrum LED lamp that you can move to highlight your work as you saw and chisel is invaluable. Your loupes or “head gear” will also work better for you if you have good light.
I have a light on my magnifying glasses, need both now I old!
I thought the sliding bench lamp was quiet, understated genius.
After spending over $100k in tools during my career as an auto tech, I'm actually using quite a few of them when woodworking, more than I would have guessed.
These are just some of the "crossover" tools I use; feeler gauges, digital calipers, micrometers, "helping hand" magnifying glass, nitrile rubber gloves, (wood severely dries out my hands, I don't use them when using power tools though,), large C-clamp locking pliers, lead and brass hammers, rubber mallet. That's what I can think of at the moment, but I know there are more.
I agree with all. I really like your idea on the helping hand magnifer
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hey Rob thanks for the insight of sharpening plane blades and setting them up properly. I just left you a comment on sanding inside curves and how to make a tool to do the job a little easier than trying to coil a piece of sand paper around a dowel rod or or a finger.
Diopter means that it is a magnifying glass so both eyes can look through it simultaneously. I love that you made it the number one tip. I need a minimum of a 2.0 in my welding hood. The most readily available are 1.0 to 3.0 in .5 increments. Other increments are available but more difficult to source. Thanks Rob! Keep up the great work.
And now I know! Thanks. Yup I use them all the time
When I worked in the hardware store/lumber yard I used a tape holder that was magnetic. The tape had a steel disc screwed to it and the holder was plastic with a magnet and it clipped to your belt. Man did I love that, plus if someone borrowed your tape you always got it back because they could not clip it to there belt.
I have seen those before. They look very useful
I have found an excellent tool for holding down my new chiseles as I hand flattened them. It's a five-ounce, three-inch-diameter, hand-stiched, rawhide sphere called a baseball.
Fits very nicely in the hand and allows me to apply pressure with my palm rather than fingers.
Awesome tip. I am going to try this one
Since I was little I loved to do technical drawing, streets, houses, etc... and my father is also fond of gadgets... He bought me once in a Bookstore a PROPORTIONAL DIVIDER... to me is an awesome thing to have and takes away all the guess work of dividing in parts a line or divide a circle in X amount of sections. On woodwork is no exception, specially in little boxes or when designing a tenon or a mortise or when making a layout of dovetails. Just dial the division You want to make and on the other side, you have it... no calculations no guessing, saves so much time... I wonder why I haven´t seen it more often being used.... Awesome little gadget...
I would have to include my remote switch for my Dust collection. Total game changer in the shop. Saves me time walking to and from. Not sure how I went so long without one.
I’m a carpenter and for the last 30 or so years have always had a piece of white Formica I cut to the size of my Fat Max tape measure and epoxy it on the the side and it becomes a little scratch pad to write down measurements. Because the area is limited I’ve come up with my own form of shorthand symbols for shapes & words. I’m now 65 and couldn’t remember numbers from one second to the next while I’m concentrating on something else. You can always use a scrap piece of wood, but the tape is always with you no matter where. Erase it with a bit of spit & rub. Nobody will want to steal your tape then.
Jerry, thanks for the tip. I’ve just retired due to health issues & am going crazy in my Shed/workshop trying to learn a dozen trades in shortest time possible. Thanks for the tip. Pity it’s midnight here in Canberra & neighbours will get a little irate if I start work now... Kind regards from Australia
Mark
Jerry S. thanks fir that grett tip
The flat metal ‘bristles’ from a rotary street sweeper can often be found in the gutter around town. I always pick ‘em up. Hardened steel, thin and stiff, they’ll even take an edge to make a tiny chisel or a burr as a tiny scraper in a corner. Fit a handle; 101 uses.
I think you may have overlooked your actual number 1 tool. You have had it with you every time I’ve watched you. It’s your apron. It gives you some minor protection and you are constantly reaching in to it to retrieve things. 😉👍🏻
Great point! you are the second person to point that out! thanks
My small tip for what it’s worth, I bought some blackboard paint and painted the inside top half of the entry door to my workshop, next to my minuscule bench, and turned the back of the door into a blackboard. A small holder for chalk and a duster and I cannot tell you how incredibly valuable it has become for jotting down quick ideas, measurements, quick drawings of parts etc. it is truly astounding how often I use it now to the point that I also made up two more on framed boards that hang on the bottom half of the door that I can unhook and carry to other parts of the workshop and prop up so I can see the measurements or whatever right where I’m working. Seriously, try it. I didn’t think it would be anything but a bit of a lark when I first painted it but now it’s indispensable in my daily workflow and hopefully it will help yours too. Tho you might need to hang yours upside down to mine as down here in Australia things are right side up so . . . . 😎
Ha!
I have a bunch of vinyl 12" squares in my shop. I place them under legs when painting or staining to keep assembly table clean. Works better than paper, wax paper, or other methods.
Machinists 1-2-3 blocks. I use them for machine setup and calibration, alternative squares, stop blocks, drawer slide spacing and a few other uses. I also use Scotchbrite pads for quick removal of light surface rust.
@R Dalton I also use my 123 block with a couple of magnets to set a 1" offset from my table saw fence. Use the table saw fence to set the crosscut + 1" and place the 123 block left of the front of fence best the front.
Scotchbrite pads, especially green, are excellent for removing those dust nubs in wipe on finishes (satin). According to the 3M website, the green is akin to 320 grit. But I've never had a problem with objectionable scratches.
Old hockey pucks. I get them at a used sporting goods shop. Useful as weights, supports, and as vibration dampers under the feet of equipment.
painters tape and CA glue. If your wood work its a must combo. I do alot of prefinished and raw woodworking that sometimes requires routing with templates. This method lets you put a template on the work surface and protected from the glue no nails or clampes required and just pull off when done
I will be buying that polishing putty. Arithma Addiator for doing adding and subtraction. You can quickly add and subtract multiple different things at the same time quickly and accurately. Also if you can get it dry ice blasting, non abrasive way of removing unwanted surface material. No sand dust.
I just looked up the arithma addiator....can you tell me more about it?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sure it's a old German device used specifically for addition and subtraction. You use a metal pen stylus to "write" in the numbers for calculator. Made a couple videos for you to see it in action. ua-cam.com/video/Saresftldxo/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/NuysN07M2GI/v-deo.html
I'm right there with you on the necessity of keeping an assortment of tapes in the shop. Unlike you, i don't buy adhesive backed roll sandpaper for making sanding blocks. I use 3 inch wide double sided tape by Venture together with regular sandpaper. I just cut a piece of tape slightly oversize, trim it to exact size if the block and then add the sandpaper and trim that to match.
A spring activated center punch is very handy for marking holes
Great videos, Sir! My favorite non-traditional "tool" is a bar of soap. Any time I'm driving a woodscrew, especially a brass one, I flick the threads across the soap (you don't need much) and that makes driving so much easier. Some folks use beeswax, but I already had the soap and it (may) be cheaper.
My father used to do that about 60 years ago. Works well.
I haven’t seen this mentioned much - usually wax is used now - but this is a tip I learned from my dad when I was a kid and we built shelves using screws (driven by hand back in the day). He’d always have to finish driving the screws as I was too little and didn’t have the strength yet. He learned it from his grandfather, my great grandfather, who was a lifelong professional carpenter and homebuilder in an era before any power tools.
Chopsticks and/or bamboo skewers...cheap and thousands of uses
Yup I can see that. GREAT tip
Really? A couple of examples please.
@@robertthomas6127 Guys at our club use them as hinges for small boxes. (they aren't all the same size but cheap enough what you don't use in the pack don't matter)
As a restoration carpenter, I use them to fill old stripped screw holes in door hinges. Drill out hole around the size of the stick. Dip stick in a little glue, stick it in and break it off. Retap with a smaller bit for a new tight fit to last another 100 years!
I picked up a pack of popsicle sticks at Dollar Tree and have been using them for temporary shims and mixing epoxy and such. Used several together to block a ground hornet hole to keep them from escaping while I poisoned it last year. =)
My No. 1 shop tool is the coffee maker
Priorities...
I appreciate you so much. thanks for all your years and continued explanations and patience and attention to details.
You are so welcome
I have used a pair of Weems & Plath Ultralight dividers (#176) for many years as a boat captain. They are accurate and one handed for use plotting on charts. They work great in the workshop.
A good pair of dividers is hard to beat.
You know when you want to eye up an object or get the light just right or check a clearance ? I put two 9 inch squares on the wall in front of the bench .
One is Black . The other is White. It was very useful to have a choice of contrast .
I am a complete novice but have loved watching a master share his craft. The one thing that I don't have that I notice Rob has and uses all the time but didn't mention is the apron. Now that I am sanding etc and creating all that dust plus I am always wishing I had one of those pockets, I am going to get one right away. Not really a gadget but seems like it would be a great help in the workroom.
My dad was a ship’s carpenter and boat builder. From early childhood I would assist him on all kinda of projects. Starting with cutting down trees to be used in the projects. He taught me so many trick, tips and methods. I still have 3 generations of woodworking tools that I use in my shop. One of the better things he taught me was removing or extraction of old seated screws, spikes and nails in restoration projects. Simply, using a sample squeeze bottle of peroxide and applying it generously around the screw soaking the area. Then allowing some time for capillary action to have it soak in. It saved a lot of effort getting it out neatly and spared the restoration any damage. Hope that helps someone!
GREAT TIPS!!! Glad to see you use the "head gear"; me too. BUT! what to do when the lenses start to fall out! (I struggled for years, because I actually DID want to change them out for diff. diopter), the fit got slopppy with the little rivets holding them in. I mentioned this frustration to my smart son-in-law; in just a minute, he put the lens on the INSIDE; and---boom! no more falling out!! no glue, no other modification. Try it you just might smile.
Silicone basting brushes for larger glue-ups. Even dried (maybe even especially dried), the glue won't stick to them. Some of them are a bit too wobbly, so I cut the "filaments" to about half length.
Absolutely, really good tool, thanks
Also silicone pastry mats - work great for glue ups. Nothing sticks to them, not even epoxy.
UK chippy here. The items I always have in my work shorts pockets are:
Carpenter's pencils - soft and hard graphite, plus white for hardwoods
Quick change brad point pilot bits - it takes a few seconds more to pilot a hole rather than risk splitting the wood.
Stanley Sliding Pocket Knife- excellent lightweight utility knife with quick change blades.
6" Combination square - Useful for quick square checks and marking.
Cheap reading glasses- I get them from pound (dollar) stores and are throwaway rather than wasting good glasses.
Drill bits- Flat, PH2, PZ2, they stay in the pockets and are transferred over to new shorts on wash day!
I've never seen a Philips drill bit. I thought that all drill bits were round.
@@johncoops6897 "Drill bits" in UK can refer to either hss/brad point bits etc or screwdriver bits.
@@nickm8494 - How odd. Well, considering that they are quite different objects,I imagine the UK naming tradition must cause massive confusion in the hardware store and on job sites LOL.
@@johncoops6897 Not at all, John. I don't use "hardware stores", I use specialist trade and builders merchants and if you ask for either PZ2 bits or HSS bits we all know what we're taking about because we're professionals. lol.
I use the blue tape on cut lines when using my table saw. The tape generally stops any splintering or fiber edges.
Great video and list, Rob. Hockey tape is awesome! I hadn’t wrapped a hockey stick in 40 years, but when I saw your clamp and screwdriver grips wrapped with hockey tape a few months ago I remembered the technique and ordered some. All my clamps handles are now hockey taped. Now I can clamp projects as hard as I need to without frustrating grip slippage. FWIW, I’m using about 7 or 8 of your tips routinely now, most from watching your videos. Working smarter, not harder!
He shoots, He scores! Got to love stick tape. Thanks for watching and commenting
1-2-3 blocks. Staple setup tool for machinists, but if you want to have a quick right angle for, say, paring a mortice wall, you can just holdfast the 1-2-3 block at the edge and pare away. Plus, for the tolerances you work to in wood, you don't need very expensive blocks. Mine cost around $20 canadian for two (bought from China).
Also, machinists' deburring bits - the ones that look like a cone with a single hole cut through perpendicular to the surface. They are the cleanest-cutting counterbore bits out there, far better than the "rose" pattern countersink bits or the ones supplied clamped to the drill bit.
Dental picks. You can get a kit of them in a nice wallet pack for a few dollars, and for cleaning out dried glue from awkward corners they are a fantastic tool, but I mostly use mine for cleaning out the grooves when doing line-and-berry inlay work.
Self-adhesive coloured dots can be bloody useful when labelling joints.
And glu-bot bottles are remarkably good as applicator bottles for glue (and I use the pallette knife trick as well).
Rob, great tips as always! Clarifying on the calipers, you may have mispoken.. the ones you showed are dial calipers, "vernier calipers" refers to the vernier scale on non-dial calipers that allow you to determine the measurement much like an old slide-rule. As you expand them, lines on the vernier scale align to tell you the measurement. The main advantages are that they are cheaper to produce and don't have the sensitive dial that can be bumped out of calibration.
The calipers that Rob showed *WERE* vernier calipers. They also had a dial indicator as well.
Nevertheless, at 9:04 he actually stated that they were Dial Calipers.... DOH.
Furthermore, everyone uses digital calipers now days. In the world outside the USA, it's so easy because of the use of millimeters. Finally there are now cheap ($20 or so) Fractional calipers that can directly read out fractional inches.
Aside from being simple and quick to read, the best thing about digital calipers is the Zero button. Measure one object, and hit zero while still clamped to it. Now measure second object and directly read off the clearance/interference.
@@johncoops6897 Respecfully Sir that is not accurate. I meant no offense and I'm not trying to have a digital debate. I apologize if my comment came across as rude somehow, but I don't think it was written in a negative way. I'm trained in metrology and have some experience using both types. I think we're all here to learn and get better. I have nothing but the utmost respect for Rob. I think that was reflected in my original comment. Dial calipers/digital calipers do also have a scale, but not a Vernier scale. That form of scale was invented by Pierre Vernier and is a really cool invention that allowed for leaps in precision by magnifying errors. It may be a regional semantics thing to call them 'Vernier' colloquially. I was just trying to be precise...like Rob is in his Joinery : - ) . Like I said we're all here to learn. I love Rob's videos and I was simply trying to add to the learning & dialogue.
@@benchtopwoodworks - I know what a Vernier Scale is, and have used Vernier, Dial and now Digital calipers for over 50 years. One of my metric dial calipers also has a vernier scale on the depth bar, so when I saw the etchings on Rob's calipers, I (perhaps falsely) assumed that they had a Vernier scale as well.
I use a headlamp that I picked up for night hikes when I need extra light in the shop and can't find my third hand.
@@Clark42EoC You'll be pleasantly surprised what's happened to the price in the intervening decade. Hard to think it'd be worth stealing nowadays.
The correct name for your calipers is dial calipers. True vernier calipers have a vernier scale and you read the distance by matching where 2 tiny lines line up. They can even make young eyes scream when trying to read them. On some of them the lines can be fine enough it takes a jeweler's loupe to be able to read them.
Did I say veneer calipers???? Yes dial calipers is correct
I use a 1cc syringe with small blunt needles to finely put CA glue where I want it.
Ingenious!! Where do you get the needles?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking look at AliExpress!! I use them to refill cartridges on my fountain pens. They are dirt cheap
I get them from amazon. Super cheap. When a nozzle clogs, you can just open the bottle and draw out the glue too. I avoid Aliexpress like the plague.
I use little plastic pipettes. You can get a hundred for a few dollars on Amazon, and they can be reused a couple of times. The very long, very thin tubes allow exact placement.
I use exactly the same thing for injecting glue into the grooves for stringing and inlay. Also, 2-3cc pippettes are really useful for putting resin in exactly the spot you need it for when you're filling knots or defects in either normal woodwork or in woodturning.
I keep a 5 in 1 painters tool in the top drawer. It's great for all kinds of things about the shop - scraping glue or grime from the worktop, opening boxes and cans of finish, spreading wood filler, separating projects being held down with the CA / tape method, cleaning glue from other tools, the list goes on. It's invaluable.
Had to look to see what got missed from everyones list. Most reached for, a pick with a point on one end and a bend on the other, dads old “pinchers” for pulling staples and nails,Digital callipers that read fractions and decimal,and “Uncle Bills” sliver grippers. Learning alot from you Rob,thanks.
My tip that I use. Masking tape or blue painters tape, if its old and tears off the roll, put it in the microwave for 10 seconds, usually works great again.
That's a great idea! I have never tried that , but I know exactly what you are talking about. I will definitely give that a try
So is the microwave your workshop gadget of choice?
I'm definitely trying this next time I'm in the shop! Bad tape is so frustrating.
I took a (Vaughn) pullsaw blade I purchased at Lowe’s and mounted it to one of my larger reciprocating sawblades....(typically a metal cutting one)...I first tried riveting, didn’t hold very well...then I took some bolts (w/nuts) off of an old computer part and tried again...
Hallelujah !🙏
Now I can use an actual 12” pullsaw blade with my sawzall! It leaves a very smooth edge and speeds up the cutting process. 👀😅
If you go to restaurant supply places you can get squeeze bottles in a variety of sizes that you clip the top to make the opening the size and angle you want. Great for applying glue and for finish repairs.
Plastic soda straws. I used them to remove excess glue before it dries from the inside of 90 degree joints. When pressed into the joint, the straw conforms to the square joint shape and scoops out almost all of the excess glue.
Great tip, thanks
Calipers are invaluable for tool making. Very handy for turning too.
That blue tape/CA glue trick is clutch. Thanks for sharing.
Just passing on a good tip someone passed ro me
Just in the last month or two I started taking an interest in working with wood been watching your videos and I have enjoyed them very much I've learned a lot thank you
set up blocks. for setting router bit cuts, table saw cuts. marking, and on and on. I use them absolutely every day. Love em
Great tip!
Stair gauges, the little brass clips designed to attach to a front square to set an angle, are useful. They work to hold two rules together to take precise inside measurements.
great idea, your own inside measurement ruler without buying expensive ones
I like to keep various bits/tips for my screw gun in the small pocket of my carpenter shorts/pants. However, retrieving them from the bottom of my pocket can be cumbersome. My solution was a small rare earth magnet to keep them all together so when I pull them from my pocket they all come as one unit and I can quickly select the one I need. Recently I started using another magnet outside of my pants to drag what's in my pocket up so I can get a couple of fingertips on them. Hope this helps you out.
Wax paper - to use under glue ups
Butcher paper - for patterns & drawing plans
Blu tack mastic adhesive putty - holding patterns/pieces, cleaning out grooves, making sure surfaces are dust free prior to applying finishes. Wad a bit around the end of a wire or dowel to retrieve small items from small spaces.
Rubber Bands - dozens of uses
My number one...
Rare Earths Magnets - wrapped in a piece of paper you can easily pick up spilled nails, screws, etc. Just unwrap the magnet with the things inside the paper & you can funnel them into a can.
I use drinking straws to get glue out of corners, but inside and outside corners. Just crease the end and it gets into the corner like a scraper. Cheap and disposable.
For clamping: I have near the bench 20ft rope, 3/16. All kind of wedges. I use a syringe for gluing mortise joints. Cheap lite weight plastic clamps to keep things in place before putting on the heavy clamps. Duct tape. Thanks for this video. The reactions bring out tons of usefull tricks. Great!
Wow, great tips. Got to love duct tape.
I keep tooth picks in my "solve most problems handyman bucket" because, most of the time a screw or nail is loose. I use the tooth picks to dab a little bit of glue in the hole, then I jam tooth picks in the hole to to repack the hole with wood, so the screw or nail has something to grab onto or bite into. I've used this trick on antique furniture, door jams, windows, baseboard, crown molding, cabinets, exterior trim, etc. If it is made of wood, mdf, particle board, plywood, or exterior grade pic, this trick works great!
I have done that trick too. Great comment. Tons of other things you can use screws for too
Bees wax on my cheap planes cuz that’s the only planes I have lol. But man ur so right it makes a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference. It’s like sliding on asphalt vs sliding on ice.
I am not a joiner or carpenter or hand wood worker or really anything but the way you Mr. Rob presenting these things is so nice. Very cool video. Good luck
I love watching your channel on UA-cam and have been doing so now for a while! I am sharing something that I think every wood worker should own, but you may already know or have used this product before. In this video I tried looking at your shop’s tools in the background, and I didn’t see this one amazing and essential tool. That in which I am talking about is called a “Chinese Pull Saw” and the brand I like is made by Vaughan Bear. Now what is amazing about this product is how sharp it stays making cut after cut, and it will always cut through even the hardest of woods like the way a warm knife goes through butter. Also being that is cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke like most traditional saws. This saw will make even the most novice of woodworkers be confident in taking on log rip cuts of wood by hand. Mostly because of how persist and easily it is when cutting different types of woods. Well that’s it for me and I also wanted to say how much I really enjoyed this video! I learned a lot of great tricks I can’t wait to use on my next wood working project! Thanks for sharing your many years of experience and taking the time to make this video for all of us here in UA-cam land!!! Keep up the awesome videos!
Ray, have you seen any of Rob's other videos or is this the first?
I’ve seen close to about 4 or 5 of his videos in total now, and I gotta say I’ve learned a whole lot. I really do enjoy watching all these expert woodworking channels on here. Why do you ask?
@@rpandocchi Because he makes arguably the best dovetail and tenon saws in the world and sells them.
My favorite non-woodworking POWER TOOL is an electric pencil sharpener. I find that 3-4 dozen pencils all over my shop has been a very valuable asset. However, sharpening pencils is a chore. But walking over, sticking-zip-sharpen is a whole new level of convenience. Plus, if you have any dowels that need "just a trim" to more easily fit, again, it's stick-zip-done.
Yup, I have one too. Use it all the time
Every time I use a pencil it gets a touch-up in the electric pencil sharpener. Mine is over 40 years old, it used to be my father's.
Thanks for all videos, I ordered a pair of magnifier glasses a week ago after seeing how much you use them. They are from Lie Nielsen. I use a 5 times , 5 inch magnifying led clamp lamp that fits into my 3/4 inch dog holes in my bench. Great for bench work , sharpening tools and getting slivers out.
A second on the lighted magnifying lamp! I've need using one for so long (starting in electronics over 30 years ago) that I sometimes forget that it is something many people don't have.
I like your must have list ! I have most of those already but I did learn at least one new tip from this. I would add another at least as an honorable mention and that would be a transfer punch set ! When making jigs and fixtures or copying a set of holes they are absolutely critical to have so everything lines up perfectly.
Great tip about the tape with the dowel centres! It had never occurred to me but they're so annoying if a loose fit.
I know right? I got frustrated on a project they kept falling out and BAM I figured out taping them
@@RobCosmanWoodworking genius in simplicity!
If they are too loose, they won't center.
Yes! That was the one where i said why didn't i think of that!
It seems I always need to make small adjustments. Stanley makes the perfect tool, a 1 inch wide chisel that folds to protect the blade (and your leg) and drop in a pocket. It is one of the Fatmax series of tools and the handles are capped with steel and made from what feels like fiber filled nylon. At only $12 - $13.00 I really expected the steel to be inferior, but it takes and keeps an incredible edge. Other brands are available, too. Fastcap, and Morakniv come to mind at a higher price.
I just looked it up, interesting
I save the preapproved plastic credit cards that come in the mail and use them to spread the glue on bigger projects. Also either wax paper or parchment paper also for glue ups. I put it on my work bench to keep glue from sticking to it and between my pipe clamps and the wood to prevent stains
I own more tape measures than I can count, but I only use one-the FastCap PSSR-25. Like most, it'll measure out to 25 ft. but for those of us using imperial measurement, it shows fractional lengths down to a 16th of an inch. Yes, I can do fractions, but it's soooo much faster getting the correct length with this tape. Try it!
Favorite hand tool: my JessEm marking gauge (made in Canada!).
Most precise tool in my shop besides my digital caliper. It has a built-in micro-adjuster as well as preset detents so you never have to mess with a ruler to set it.
I just looked it up, very technical. Thanks for commenting
that's exactly the desing I was looking for in a marking gauge (I already sketched a similar one to do it by myself), thank you for pointing this out.
Very useful tips. Thanks
You hock tape tip changed my life. I use it on all my hammers, mallets, and saw handles (I use Japanese saws so it fits). The only thing I use that’s not traditional is a few bicycle inner tubes I cut into one long strip each. They are basically giant rubber bands that are great for holding odd shaped parts together or glueing long thin strips like when I put the back on a bow.
I was brought up on the metric system and am somewhat challenged in working with an imperial dial indicator. My favorite solution was finding a dial caliper that actually had the fractions on the dial, rather than thousands of an inch.
a compass. And no, I don't mean calipers. I have been doing a lot of renovation work with buildings, framing, and furniture that don't have straight lines. By using a compass I can transcribe the curve onto an adjoining board and then cut perfectly to the line using a bandsaw. Just a simple one from the dollar store and a super sharp pencil will do the trick.
Hi Rob - I have all of your top ten 'gadgets' and have done for years. My squirrel tail plane is a Kunz but is such a handy plane. I make guitars and this little plane does the jobs no other plane can. As for another item - I have a box of glazers shims which are used in double glazed windows they come in 1mm - 6mm stages and as they are made of PVC they do not damage delicate woods when used to shim a project. I use them under clamps to protect the wood and to shim jigs etc. Great work by the way.
Kurobara/Camellia Oil - lots of uses; I use this to protect any steel that might rust (smother my jointer top with it), I use it as a lubricant when sharpening, & it can be used as a quick finish on a wooden handle.
Great tip! I use it to prevent rust also
Happy to say I have ALL of this and more. And yes, they all get used. The headset is usually 3x and I use mine frequently.
I use to work in the woods a great deal then moved to the desert. Much to my surprise there are absolutely beautiful wood here. One problem I always had was throughly cleaning the blade of the saw where all of the debris was collected and the saw dust full of oil seemed packed into the area to the point of I had to have a special flat head screwdriver. It took a great deal of time to rid the issue. While walking my dog I came across a very thin piece of metal about 1/4" by about 6 (or better) long and about 1/8' of an ince in thickness. The piece of metal was very strong but flexible. I took the piece of metal to the city I worked at and discovered a couple more pieces of metal near the mechanics work area. When questioned the mechanic told me that the little metal pieces were from the brushes of street sweepers. I cleaned the small pieces and finally turned a handle for a couple and used it to clean the blades. I than began to sharpen the ends and have used it in so many places. I now have several and for a free piece of metal I have discovered a small tool that works for me in many ways.😃😃😃😃
Hey Rob, thanks for the vid. Just wanted to mention playing cards. I use them a lot when, for instance, I want to move my bandsaw fence, just a hair. They measure 11 thou ( at least mine do ), and I love them because of their consistency. I have measured several with digital calipers and they are very consistent in thickness. I keep a deck in the top drawer of my tool chest...:).
Great for adjusting door hinges.
I added the hoyle waterproof cards recently. They are almost exactly 1/64th of an inch thick, which is handy for a lot of things, and they are waterproof and glue won’t stick to them, so they last a long time.
@@MD-en3zm I'll have to get a package of these, thanks.
A pair of 1 2 3 blocks. It's amazing what uses it can be put to
1-2-3 blocks are as essential in a wood shop as they are in a machinist shop. They work as a tiny square, a weight, a spacer, and they’re a great aid in setting up router bits and saw blades for a specific depth and/or offset when used in combination with the calipers. Get a set with holes and a set without holes and then just toss an extra set in your amazon cart every time you’re a few bucks away from free shipping.
Yup several folks are recommending them. I love them too
My favorite use for these is as an offset on the table saw. You can use them when you are using a crosscut sled or miter gauge, easily clamp them (through the holes using a sacrificial fence clamp) to the close end of the rip fence. Then just set the rip fence to 1 inch more than your desired length and you have a precisely dimensioned crosscut and no kickback from pinching the board.
I have a stack of old steel gym weight plates that I keep hand for glue ups that I can't get to with my clamps.
Thats tons better than me having Jake stand on my stuff! COL Luther says he does the exact same thing. I think its a great ifea
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've been using kettlebells for about 10 years. I call them my #20 gravity clamps. :-)
I salvage the heavy weight ring from the bottom of old pole lamps, and use them as clamping weights,
I use ingots of wiping solder for the same thing.
Great video. I am fond of scouring antique shops, garage sales, flea markets, etc. in search of old tools, where I also buy antique, cast iron smoothing irons, once used for ironing clothes. They are so convenient anywhere weight is needed, especially in some glue-up applications. I love the feel of the ergonomic handles that were in use long before that term was coined.
one of the things I use for thin shims in all kinds of applications is the plastic coated playing cards
my last trip to Vegas one casino was giving away used ones for free so I got a bunch of packs they
work great in all kinds of spots as they are waterproof and do not compress
That's an awesome idea...free too! a playing card is about 6ooo. what do you do for smaller than that??
@@RobCosmanWoodworking another one I have used is tinfoil and with both of these when trying to make it stay
where you want it to is wet your finger with a tiny bit of wood glue then wipe back of shim put it in place
Great list. Never thought I’d say this Nick Ferry’s Apple box. Simple box for elevating, clamping, spacing, sitting on, etc. Didn’t see the use of one until I built one and now I use it daily.
I see quite a few of mine here already. Playing cards: shims, epoxy mixing, paint mix color testing, glue spreading. Popsicle sticks/ coffee stir sticks: shims, patch material, fast and cheap mixing spreading sticks. Old CDs: epoxy mixing. Drinking straws: clearing out glue squeeze out. Magnetic instrument base(the ones with the on/off switch): heaven send to hold plane blades and chisels when flattening the back, and also great to pick up metal filings and such. Saddle stool, similar to a low bar stool but with a 'saddle' or bicycle like seat, most commonly used by hair dressers, gives your feet more traction on the ground compared to a bar stool and less 'thigh fatigue'.
Tooth picks (pointed both ends) and popsicle/craft sticks. I find multiple uses for these.
Yup, i love the and Q tips for placing glue
I use popsicle sticks a lot at my workbench, too. Great for stirring epoxy or applying it to areas.
Great for filling old screwholes if you want to move them ever so slightly
Bare-wood golf tees ...useful if a screw hole is in the wrong place and has to be moves a small amount. Glue the tee onto the hole, cut it off flush, and drill the new hole. Works for stripped-out holes as well.
Thanks for the always great and informative videos. I use the blades from a Stanley knife instead of a scraper, don’t have to sharpen them like the scrapers, only use the backside if you’re doing it a lot
Thanks from the UK Rob.
A steel rule 300mm, 600mm, 900mm - that's 1 ft, 2 & 3ft to you guys, along with a rule stop - lots of different makes - are great for repetitive marking out, reducing the risk of mis-reading a tape or rule.
Please keep up the excellent work.
Another great idea...Thanks
i discovered using calipers for precision work quite by accident one day while making some cabinets with tolerances that were beyond the scope of even the best tape measure or straight edge.
i now use them for all kinds of things.
Table salt. Bothered by wood slipping during glue up when you apply the clamps?
Sprinkle a few salt crystals on the wet glue before clamping
Yes that's a great one. Actually COL Luther taught me this....you just have to be careful to use only a little bit, too much and it will clump up and your boards wont seat correctly
Keeps a bar napkin from sticking to your pint too; cheers fellas.
The people who create Titebond actually recommend against doing this because it can negatively impact the bond created by the glue - there is information about it on their website.
To add to your feeler gauge I use a set of brass gauge blocks and machinist 1x2x3 gauge blocks for machine set-up
clear box tape can be used to close a miter. you can still see the miter and if you run it in line with the miter it also helps prevent glue squeezing out. I usually use clear along the miter and masking perpendicular. masking has better grip. the two combined are an awesome duo. for small projects... no clamps necessary.
All your tips are great. Here is my take on a couple of them; For cheap shim stock I use soda cans cut up with tin snips. For thicker shims I use tin roaster pans from the grocery store. For the calipers I use digital calipers. Easy to read AND they read in metric or imperial at the push of a button. For tape, a type often overlooked is gaffer tape used by movies, stage and musicians. It may be the strongest tape out there and made to not leave sticky behind when removed. It has a true cloth backing and stretches very little. A little pricy but worth it.
How about some kind of awl for marking hole locations, if you're not drilling with a brad point bit?
Those interested in the squirrel-tail plane might find the Veritas Pocket Plane to be a reasonable substitute... with its Norris adjuster, there's no need to tap away at the blade with a little hammer.
Get a pair of surgical loupes such as those made by Designs for Vision. You will not need to put the strap-on thing around your head and you will so quickly get used to them that you will start wearing them around the house. Having done microsurgery and hand surgery for over 30 years I have even found myself wearing them to the bathroom which obviously occasions some humorous comments. I would recommend the 2.5 power and would point out that their customer service is second to none. They're not cheap though. Best wishes and thanks for all the great videos.
I use those Optivisors also, and have found various focal lengths are great. The lenses also are available in GLASS rather than plastic, if you want. Also, you can get a small lens that attaches to the visor and swings onto the right or left eye for up to 10X for magnification. Why would you want that? VERY handy at times. You can inspect very small measurements, also great for looking at cutting edges to see small flaws. And of course for finding and pulling small slivers out of your hands! pretty hard to hold a magnifying glass and tweezers at the same time, especially when the target is on one of your hands!
Oh, baby, you just opened pandorah's box with this IDEAS, idea! I cant afford a dust collector(retired), but I eliminate dust by making dust otside in the airflow of a whole house fan in a homemade 2x4 box. Its cool in the summer, and abolutely clean air no matter what Im grinding( usually 40 grit sidewinder). And its good for the lawn, besides being quiet! Ok, dont get me goin;love your vids!