Lol, dude this is excellent, I had two focuses (one SE, next ST) now I have a S550 GT with the 9 speaker system. Your videos are awesome man! Thanks for the hard work!
Just an FYI. The Shaker system may have woofers in the doors, but the non-shaker setup has component mid-bass speakers in the doors. I don't understand why all these mustang upgrade kits/videos show them being replaced with coaxials. The tweeters are just being wasted, either way. They wouldn't add a benefit, even if they worked. Tweeters in the doors, and in the A-Pillars would really screw up the soundstage. With the basic stereo (smaller non-touch screen LCD on dash, and no midrange speaker at the top of the door), I don't really even see a point to upgrade the 6.5" door speakers. Just replace them with stock when they blow. The stock amp is fairly weak. Less sensitive speakers would result in lower volume, on an already quiet system.
@@FatGuyBuilds I agree coaxials would definitely be cheaper....but IMO, a dedicated woofer/midwoofer would sound better (more linear cone travel) and have higher power handling. A cheap 6.5" component set can be purchased on amazon for about $30, and you get the separate tweeters included. BTW, I wasn't knocking you specifically for using coaxials. There are companies literally selling upgrade kits for the mustang using coaxials, with YT videos suggesting that the tweeters will improve sound. It was more a knock on them.
Great video. I plan on doing the same thing, however I will replace with a dedicated mid. Your thoughts on replacing the 2 ohm factory unit with the 4ohm pioneer. Any big changes? The mid I'm going to use is also a 4 ohm unit.
Fatguybuilds, I just replaced the rear deck speakers on my '17 GT350 9 speaker Shaker system. Online I found out that the right speaker wires are + and the left ones are -. This is with me inside the car looking out the rear view window. The Kenwood speakers I used have the + connection on the left and the - on the right. When I tried to line up the Kenwood speaker connections to the factory speaker mount the connections didn't line up. I rotated the speakers 180°. I write this to ask you, are you sure you just connect left to left and right to right as you did with the door speakers?
Crazy question...you replaced your 3.5s. Do you have to replace them, can you just leave them unplugged? The selection of 3.5s are rare to find. I have the same system in my Ecoboost. I'm replacing with Cerwin Vegas..
The thing I don’t understand is why are you installing a full range woofer that has a tweeter on top if the bottom woofer originally are subwoofers/mid bass/LFE. ?
Did you end up putting the focal's in? Did you notice a bump in quality at higher levels? I have a 19 gt premium with the bang and olufsen system with two illusion cxl10 subwoofers ran on a mosconi amplifier. I am looking to get a slight bump in speaker quality in the front. I feel like the b&o amp is doing a great job but the stock speakers can not handle the power at the top end.
Hey, about to upgrade the 3.5 in mine with a coax, did you find the highs overpowering having a tweeter in the pillar and the 3.5"s with tweeter in the door? Wondering if i'm better off leaving the door alone and just putting one of the 3.5s in the center speaker.
I can't believe this guy put 2 way coaxial in the woofer and mid section. No regard to voice matching, phasing, listening position, resistance etc. The low pass crossover point on the woofer will be changed by the resistance of the new speaker, as will the (assumed) bandpass on the mid-range. I don't know why people buy "car" speakers. You could easily find a Dayton audio woofer/mid/tweeter that are much higher quality and are the proper size in 2/4/6/8 ohms. Wattage rating is basically meaningless as it's almost always an exaggeration. I wonder where the crossover is on the Mustang, is it active? Or is there a simple first order passive crossover in the wiring somewhere? And can the people with the 2 way systems upgrade to a 3 way without much trouble? Curious to know if they rear are low pass and what the crossover points are in the s550. Also with that many tweeters, the relative dynamic range between the bands and frequency balance is probably a disaster, as well as lobing, standing waves. And to try and EQ above about 500 hz is meaningless because microphones do not hear how the human brain does, not to mention the resonances that EQ can introduce which is enough of a reason to avoid EQ above a few hundred hz. One thing in the Mustangs that is done well is the have a degree of time alignment and channel level built in where you can set your listening position, which is very important. If you are totally OCD look into mini-dsp it's amazing.
“Car” speakers are designed to be in semi-damp environments like car doors. Not only that, not all drivers have the same parameters between car and home audio. A higher QTS would be preferred for a car door without a custom midbass box built, something most people don’t look for. If I remember correctly, the impedance of the speakers in the S550 Mustang Premium systems are 8ohm for tweeters, midrange and center, 4ohm for the midbass in the doors and rear deck/quarter panel (convertible only) and 2ohm for the sub. All other points you made stand as far as compatibility and possible issues, I can’t imagine. Also yes, it’s a full factory DSP setup so every speaker is crossed over accordingly so tweeters get the highs, midrange get the mids and the lower doors get the midbass so having 2-way coax is definitely not ideal. I don’t even think a MiniDSP could fix the issues, might have to jump up to a Helix processor haha
All that text stuff you mentioned sounds good I got the six speaker base model I took everything out except for the tweeters and I'm running co-axles through a LC2 audio control on top of that I got a hifonics amp hooked up to a 800 RMS wide scar subwoofer to be honest with you bro it sound like everything's coming right smack dead from the middle and my highs are screaming we all got opinions I just believe yours is wrong cuz I'm sitting in my car right now trying to figure out what you talking about
@@Taino5.0my installer did this method and when I gave the components more power the woofer hits the grill now. I need to get the adapter rings in so it doesn't chew up the surround
@@DJMalva79yea I went back to stock. My system was way better with stock. I might just switch the 3.5 inch speakers in the door and center. I took the center out for now and what a difference. I also need to poke holes on the carpet in the rear.
Hey mate, quick question. I've got the 9 speaker shaker. Have added a sub and upgraded all the speakers except the tweeters and door 6.5". Was the door 6.5" upgrade noticeable? The sub does most of the kick but i can hear the door 6.5" annoyingly rattle sometimes at high volume. Is that due to it being just a crap speaker?
I had the same exact issue. My rattle was actually coming from my panel. I put in a set of Infinity Kappa 60CSX 6.5 components with the 20MX 2 inch mid add on to make it a 3 way setup I used Noico 80 mil sound Deadener with Noico 150 mil closed cell foam. I put this in the doors and on the panels as well. I also added Roadkill Fast Rings which I highly recommend for the 6.5 speakers. It forces the sound into the cabin of the car vs in the door. This also helps with vibration and rattle. One thing that I highly recommend if you're going to use an amplifier or multiple amps would be to use a DSR1 sound processor. It makes connecting amplifiers to your car super easy and it literally becomes plug and play for everything. The control you have on your sound stage is unbelievable and it's well worth it.
FatGuyBuilds that's awesome and I can't wait to see your video on it. I'm curious to know what you think may be the ultimate settings for our S550s. I currently have about 8 files saved from all of the changes that I've done to enhance it. It seems to sound better and better every time.
So many things wrong with this video. Use the correct speaker adaptors and use fast rings. Use a quality set of 6.5” components and don’t put in coax speakers everywhere. You will have so much treble that it will sound like shit. Get some Tessa tape and stop any wire vibrations. If you want it done right run it active with a DSP.
no need for adapters. steps are the same no matter what speaker you actually use. no treble comes out since that line is low pass. i want it better than stock, but not looking for amazing sound. job suceeded.
@@FatGuyBuildsactually, it does. actual woofers would sound a lot better and the system would get louder not having to waste power in the crossover section of the coaxial.
@@FatGuyBuilds I upgraded some JL 12's in the trunk, but the damn sound system sounds like absolute dog shit, it's muddled and lacks any real sound......What size speakers would I need and what sort of Amp would I need to run it? Thanks in advance!
@@FatGuyBuilds right now stock setup, 2 x 4ohm TW3 12 JL's subs, with a 1000 watt 4 channel amp, and that LC2 thing I think 4 channel but not sure. My shit just sounds so damn muddled, like I want it clear, and good beat, but now its just some bass, but no clarity and no good hits...I don't get it?
Lol, dude this is excellent, I had two focuses (one SE, next ST) now I have a S550 GT with the 9 speaker system. Your videos are awesome man! Thanks for the hard work!
your welcome... if you want more videos think about helping me on patreon.
I would have bought the installation kits for the speakers, but that is just my OCD talking. good job!
but then you would have had to cut the factory wiring.
Just an FYI. The Shaker system may have woofers in the doors, but the non-shaker setup has component mid-bass speakers in the doors. I don't understand why all these mustang upgrade kits/videos show them being replaced with coaxials. The tweeters are just being wasted, either way. They wouldn't add a benefit, even if they worked. Tweeters in the doors, and in the A-Pillars would really screw up the soundstage.
With the basic stereo (smaller non-touch screen LCD on dash, and no midrange speaker at the top of the door), I don't really even see a point to upgrade the 6.5" door speakers. Just replace them with stock when they blow. The stock amp is fairly weak. Less sensitive speakers would result in lower volume, on an already quiet system.
Because they are usually cheaper and has zero effect on the sound outcome
@@FatGuyBuilds I agree coaxials would definitely be cheaper....but IMO, a dedicated woofer/midwoofer would sound better (more linear cone travel) and have higher power handling. A cheap 6.5" component set can be purchased on amazon for about $30, and you get the separate tweeters included.
BTW, I wasn't knocking you specifically for using coaxials. There are companies literally selling upgrade kits for the mustang using coaxials, with YT videos suggesting that the tweeters will improve sound. It was more a knock on them.
got ya.
Great video. I plan on doing the same thing, however I will replace with a dedicated mid. Your thoughts on replacing the 2 ohm factory unit with the 4ohm pioneer. Any big changes? The mid I'm going to use is also a 4 ohm unit.
Nothing big changed. Dedicated mid-range is a better idea
I just bought a 2019 Mustang GT and the audio is huge let down. Great video man! Love the blue! You should have done a before and after sound though.
You would not be able to tell the difference in a youtube video.
Fatguybuilds, I just replaced the rear deck speakers on my '17 GT350 9 speaker Shaker system. Online I found out that the right speaker wires are + and the left ones are -. This is with me inside the car looking out the rear view window. The Kenwood speakers I used have the + connection on the left and the - on the right. When I tried to line up the Kenwood speaker connections to the factory speaker mount the connections didn't line up. I rotated the speakers 180°. I write this to ask you, are you sure you just connect left to left and right to right as you did with the door speakers?
@marias2tone yup that is what i usually do but have zero exp with kenwood
Fantastic video I’m using the Kenwood excelon KFC-X3C for the Tweets and KFC-X174 6.5s for the front and rear speakers
Thanks for watching!
Crazy question...you replaced your 3.5s. Do you have to replace them, can you just leave them unplugged? The selection of 3.5s are rare to find. I have the same system in my Ecoboost. I'm replacing with Cerwin Vegas..
you can always use 3" too. those are not bad to find
Well instructed , good job, you show where everything is , what size and how to remove without damage.
thanks
The thing I don’t understand is why are you installing a full range woofer that has a tweeter on top if the bottom woofer originally are subwoofers/mid bass/LFE. ?
Cheap and the sound isnt any difference
how deep is the door where the 6 1/2 goes with the window down . want to put focal ps165f3 in.dont know if there enough room. thanks
Take the door panel off after u roll the window down. Then measure from the bracket to the window.
Did you end up putting the focal's in? Did you notice a bump in quality at higher levels? I have a 19 gt premium with the bang and olufsen system with two illusion cxl10 subwoofers ran on a mosconi amplifier. I am looking to get a slight bump in speaker quality in the front. I feel like the b&o amp is doing a great job but the stock speakers can not handle the power at the top end.
You wouldn't happen to know the db sensitivity of those stock 6.5" door speakers?
no i dont sorry.
Hey, about to upgrade the 3.5 in mine with a coax, did you find the highs overpowering having a tweeter in the pillar and the 3.5"s with tweeter in the door? Wondering if i'm better off leaving the door alone and just putting one of the 3.5s in the center speaker.
I'm replacing mine with a dedicated mid driver...how did you make out?
Happy with results?
Thanks for watching!
Just saw your video. Great info!. Do you know if a 4" would fit where the 3.5" mounts to?
No.. the 3.5" barely fits
Thanks!
I can't believe this guy put 2 way coaxial in the woofer and mid section. No regard to voice matching, phasing, listening position, resistance etc. The low pass crossover point on the woofer will be changed by the resistance of the new speaker, as will the (assumed) bandpass on the mid-range. I don't know why people buy "car" speakers. You could easily find a Dayton audio woofer/mid/tweeter that are much higher quality and are the proper size in 2/4/6/8 ohms. Wattage rating is basically meaningless as it's almost always an exaggeration. I wonder where the crossover is on the Mustang, is it active? Or is there a simple first order passive crossover in the wiring somewhere? And can the people with the 2 way systems upgrade to a 3 way without much trouble? Curious to know if they rear are low pass and what the crossover points are in the s550. Also with that many tweeters, the relative dynamic range between the bands and frequency balance is probably a disaster, as well as lobing, standing waves. And to try and EQ above about 500 hz is meaningless because microphones do not hear how the human brain does, not to mention the resonances that EQ can introduce which is enough of a reason to avoid EQ above a few hundred hz. One thing in the Mustangs that is done well is the have a degree of time alignment and channel level built in where you can set your listening position, which is very important. If you are totally OCD look into mini-dsp it's amazing.
“Car” speakers are designed to be in semi-damp environments like car doors. Not only that, not all drivers have the same parameters between car and home audio. A higher QTS would be preferred for a car door without a custom midbass box built, something most people don’t look for. If I remember correctly, the impedance of the speakers in the S550 Mustang Premium systems are 8ohm for tweeters, midrange and center, 4ohm for the midbass in the doors and rear deck/quarter panel (convertible only) and 2ohm for the sub. All other points you made stand as far as compatibility and possible issues, I can’t imagine. Also yes, it’s a full factory DSP setup so every speaker is crossed over accordingly so tweeters get the highs, midrange get the mids and the lower doors get the midbass so having 2-way coax is definitely not ideal. I don’t even think a MiniDSP could fix the issues, might have to jump up to a Helix processor haha
it works just fine. the crossover is built into the stock amp.
@@FatGuyBuilds do you have more details? And if I upgrade to the premium system does it have surround like the fusion titanium?
Cool story american idle nerd.
All that text stuff you mentioned sounds good I got the six speaker base model I took everything out except for the tweeters and I'm running co-axles through a LC2 audio control on top of that I got a hifonics amp hooked up to a 800 RMS wide scar subwoofer to be honest with you bro it sound like everything's coming right smack dead from the middle and my highs are screaming we all got opinions I just believe yours is wrong cuz I'm sitting in my car right now trying to figure out what you talking about
You have any problem with the lower speakers smacking the grill with the middle part of the speaker or you made sure it was a woofer?
i haven't really seen any of those issues
@@FatGuyBuilds weird I guess it does depend on your car. Some people have issues and some don’t. My tweeter smacks when there is a lot of base
@@Taino5.0my installer did this method and when I gave the components more power the woofer hits the grill now. I need to get the adapter rings in so it doesn't chew up the surround
@@DJMalva79yea I went back to stock. My system was way better with stock. I might just switch the 3.5 inch speakers in the door and center. I took the center out for now and what a difference. I also need to poke holes on the carpet in the rear.
Hey mate, quick question. I've got the 9 speaker shaker. Have added a sub and upgraded all the speakers except the tweeters and door 6.5".
Was the door 6.5" upgrade noticeable? The sub does most of the kick but i can hear the door 6.5" annoyingly rattle sometimes at high volume. Is that due to it being just a crap speaker?
not sure. the speaker may be contacting the plastic of the door.
I had the same exact issue. My rattle was actually coming from my panel. I put in a set of Infinity Kappa 60CSX 6.5 components with the 20MX 2 inch mid add on to make it a 3 way setup I used Noico 80 mil sound Deadener with Noico 150 mil closed cell foam. I put this in the doors and on the panels as well. I also added Roadkill Fast Rings which I highly recommend for the 6.5 speakers. It forces the sound into the cabin of the car vs in the door. This also helps with vibration and rattle.
One thing that I highly recommend if you're going to use an amplifier or multiple amps would be to use a DSR1 sound processor. It makes connecting amplifiers to your car super easy and it literally becomes plug and play for everything. The control you have on your sound stage is unbelievable and it's well worth it.
@@darrylpolite8722 I am actually editting a dsr1 video right now
FatGuyBuilds that's awesome and I can't wait to see your video on it. I'm curious to know what you think may be the ultimate settings for our S550s. I currently have about 8 files saved from all of the changes that I've done to enhance it. It seems to sound better and better every time.
So many things wrong with this video. Use the correct speaker adaptors and use fast rings. Use a quality set of 6.5” components and don’t put in coax speakers everywhere. You will have so much treble that it will sound like shit. Get some Tessa tape and stop any wire vibrations. If you want it done right run it active with a DSP.
no need for adapters. steps are the same no matter what speaker you actually use. no treble comes out since that line is low pass. i want it better than stock, but not looking for amazing sound. job suceeded.
I did it but i busted some of the pins that hole the interior . I ordered more so i'll have to pop it out again
Thanks for watching!
Was this a shaker 500 system? The lower speaker was a woofer and possibly has a low to mid signal to it. If so the tweeter in that speaker is useless.
exactly, but the speakers are so cheap that it doesnt matter.
@@FatGuyBuildsactually, it does. actual woofers would sound a lot better and the system would get louder not having to waste power in the crossover section of the coaxial.
@@RodknockRhett costs was a large factor. this made almost no difference since power was not passed thru the High-pass filter.
Fantastic video! Good work! Now I feel confident to do my new Focal Flax component speakers! 👍🏼
Thank you please subscribe
How do you like the Focals?
OK. How does it sound since you added the 3.5" Pioneer 2-way with the tweeter vs the older component mid range?
sound is about the same, but power handling is much better.
@@FatGuyBuilds I upgraded some JL 12's in the trunk, but the damn sound system sounds like absolute dog shit, it's muddled and lacks any real sound......What size speakers would I need and what sort of Amp would I need to run it? Thanks in advance!
@@bigdisme5622 what is your budget and I will put something together for you. what ohm are the subs you have?
@@FatGuyBuilds right now stock setup, 2 x 4ohm TW3 12 JL's subs, with a 1000 watt 4 channel amp, and that LC2 thing I think 4 channel but not sure. My shit just sounds so damn muddled, like I want it clear, and good beat, but now its just some bass, but no clarity and no good hits...I don't get it?
Do JBL GTO 629 work?
if it fits... it works
did you try these? I'm interest ?
What kind of speaker in mustang ? I thought its good because it’s a new brand mustang
Almost no new car has good audio. Very few i listen to have effort put into the stereo.
The OEM speakers are all made of paper basically and very cheap, most have only 25w.
sounds good?
Thanks for watching!
What if I want to run amp wires to power the front door speakers? How can i avoid running wire through the door?
U have to drill holes then. But that is stupid and pointless
@@FatGuyBuilds Whats better way doing it?
@@noy6330 use the stock wires
@@FatGuyBuilds Im having problem finding the wires to tap into. They can only be behind the stock radio correct?
@@noy6330 do you have premium sound or basic
Do you have the shaker system ?
yes
Has anyone upgraded the rear deck speakers? Is there a difference in sound if you have?
Yes i have a video. And yes it sounds better.
Just watched the video. Great step by step instruction. Thanks!
does the rear speaker do play full range or they are low frequencies like the front speakers?@@FatGuyBuilds
@@dto8182 full range
😎👍
thanks