Ok, I got it. How to decompress without adding a poppet valve. if cam timing is retarded, so the intake stays open for part of compression, compression will be reduced by limiting & venting intake. I call it anti-compression. a way to do that is to run a longer timing chain, and add a second tensioner, on the drive side of the chain, that is linked to the existing tensioner, on the slack side of the chain. With them linked you can easily switch which side, drive or slack, has the extra chain. This can then be used to retard "cam" timing, and lower the effective compression.
Anti+compression! I like that, sounds like something you buy in a tin to stop pinking 😁 It's a bit late to re-design the timing chain now, but a nice idea. The Conrod to sleeve clearance is very tight though (there's videos on that). That would need considering for sure. I'll mull it over, thanks!
@@StoneEng I was thinking of ways to do it, I've got one that avoids interacting with the cam gear. Picture a 'T', the cross is the crank, the bottom point is the cam...this example may be USD, just flip it! ok, so the cross point is the crank, the horizontal line is the tensioner link. At the ends of horizontal line are idlers, so the cam will actually spin backwards, because the chain will go backwards (over link, under crank, over link, down & back to cam, under cam & back up to link#1). The tensioner link will rotate on or near the crank, changing the timing between the cam & crank.
Very nice video can't wait to see it start
Making progress.
Looks great, keep it up!
Welldone lads 👏🏻, might I suggest turning down the wall of your plug socket a wee bit also if things are getting tight😉👍🏻
Yes, that would work. Or maybe a box spanner.. But I'd rather make it easier for myself later and not have a load of special tools. 😁
Very tidy.
Ok, I got it. How to decompress without adding a poppet valve.
if cam timing is retarded, so the intake stays open for part of compression, compression will be reduced by limiting & venting intake. I call it anti-compression.
a way to do that is to run a longer timing chain, and add a second tensioner, on the drive side of the chain, that is linked to the existing tensioner, on the slack side of the chain. With them linked you can easily switch which side, drive or slack, has the extra chain. This can then be used to retard "cam" timing, and lower the effective compression.
Anti+compression! I like that, sounds like something you buy in a tin to stop pinking 😁
It's a bit late to re-design the timing chain now, but a nice idea.
The Conrod to sleeve clearance is very tight though (there's videos on that). That would need considering for sure.
I'll mull it over, thanks!
@@StoneEng I was thinking of ways to do it, I've got one that avoids interacting with the cam gear. Picture a 'T', the cross is the crank, the bottom point is the cam...this example may be USD, just flip it!
ok, so the cross point is the crank, the horizontal line is the tensioner link. At the ends of horizontal line are idlers, so the cam will actually spin backwards, because the chain will go backwards (over link, under crank, over link, down & back to cam, under cam & back up to link#1).
The tensioner link will rotate on or near the crank, changing the timing between the cam & crank.