I have the same model, almost ten years now. Thanks for sharing the procedure. I will use your video as refference. Thank you and have a good day to you. YUS
Very helpful, thanks for that, I will have to dig out my one and check it's calibration, I picked it up cheap about a year ago, and haven't used it yet!
I still need to read the manual yet lol. I need to work out how the triggering is supposed to work on these. They are a pain in that you have to move the measurement cursors around all the time, but handy for smaller jobs.
I used to have this scope; unfortunately, the screen went black, and there was no replacement available (apparently those 64x128 monochrome graphic LCDs have long since gone obsolete). The biggest problem I had with it is that it used to drain batteries, even when switched off! I ended up operating it off a 9 volt adapter instead.
Absolutely! They have voltage and signal generators that have very very low tolerance and provide extremely accurate outputs - that's what they calibrate against at the factory But I trust the Fluke, it's pretty damn accurate for something like this.
To get 0 volts you mean? No, but I suspect using P1 or the other trimmers I might be able to get it to output 0v. The main problem I had in this video is the fine adjust just isn't fine enough when you want to try and get a low mv setting. It was impossible to get 170mV set without using that pot as a divider.
I watched that part of the video again. I didn't listen properly the first time. Yeah, the fine adjust isn't fine enough kind of saying. :) Maybe an upgrade, more turns multiturn pot ? :)
I have the same model, almost ten years now. Thanks for sharing the procedure. I will use your video as refference. Thank you and have a good day to you.
YUS
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Very helpful, thanks for that, I will have to dig out my one and check it's calibration, I picked it up cheap about a year ago, and haven't used it yet!
I still need to read the manual yet lol. I need to work out how the triggering is supposed to work on these. They are a pain in that you have to move the measurement cursors around all the time, but handy for smaller jobs.
I used to have this scope; unfortunately, the screen went black, and there was no replacement available (apparently those 64x128 monochrome graphic LCDs have long since gone obsolete). The biggest problem I had with it is that it used to drain batteries, even when switched off! I ended up operating it off a 9 volt adapter instead.
Yeah, when not in use I leave one battery out! Or it does go flat super quick (and then the batteries leak...)
I have this scope thanks
I've always wondered how companies like Fluke do calibrations. The calibrating machine itself has to be calibrated as well I should think...
Absolutely! They have voltage and signal generators that have very very low tolerance and provide extremely accurate outputs - that's what they calibrate against at the factory But I trust the Fluke, it's pretty damn accurate for something like this.
interesting stuff. Regarding the PSU, have you tried adjusting P1 inside it ?
To get 0 volts you mean? No, but I suspect using P1 or the other trimmers I might be able to get it to output 0v. The main problem I had in this video is the fine adjust just isn't fine enough when you want to try and get a low mv setting. It was impossible to get 170mV set without using that pot as a divider.
I watched that part of the video again. I didn't listen properly the first time. Yeah, the fine adjust isn't fine enough kind of saying. :) Maybe an upgrade, more turns multiturn pot ? :)
Nice tweaking there :)
is this unit still worth buying or are the cheap ones on Amazon as good?
No, there are WAY better ones these days! Any of the super cheap ones beat this - hands down!
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