Mail Armor Maintenance
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Degreasing, protecting and cleaning your mail!
Custom Chainmail's rust preventative tests - www.customchain...
Final Results of the Test - www.customchain...
Historically Patterned Mail - / historicallypatternedmail
Support the Channel on Patreon - / knyghterrant
Visit the Website - knyghterrant.com
Follow me on Facebook for updates and announcements - / knyghterrant
Products shown in this video:
Breakfree CLP
Fluid Film
Evapo Rust
You're like the medieval version of Ian at Forgotten Weapons. Your videos are quite similair.
+Spawn It's an 'Ian' thing :)
+Spawn
Still waiting for a disassembly video for the mail coif.
+Knyght Errant I see what you did there ;)
Also magnificent beard
I love you for this comment 😂
You have acquired 'Rusty Mail', you suffer -1 to AC.
+Jeremy Madsen What does this do to my THAC0? ;)
You devote more time to your 50,000 subscribers than most do to a million. I really appreciate how much time you've dedicated to our education. Seriously, this kind of stuff can be hard to find the answers to, and I probably wouldn't have learned half of it without you.
I think I speak for all of your viewers when I say that you have my sincerest thanks, and I look forward to videos in the future.
Any chance on doing a video about jack chains? They seem to get ignored a lot because they aren't 'knightly', but I would imagine they would have been a very common addition to the gambeson for common soldiers without cash to burn on real plate protection.
Considering that I don't know what Jack chains are, I would also like to see a video on them.
@@CoffeeSnep They are a poorer soldier's alternative to plate armor. They are small plates joined together to make them seem like chains. They are pointed (tied) directly onto the soldier's gambeson and protects the outer side of his arms.
mcishop.azureedge.net/mciassets/w_9_0056456_rogue-jack-chains_550.png
Never have I not looked forward to your next video. You make very high-quality, in depth videos and I fully appreciate the amount of effort you must put into each one. Keep it up :)
+Ruarscampbell Thank you sir!
Hey how much bigger should a 44 chest size mail shirt should be to go around a padded armor? Because I was thinking getting a 44 chest size mail and I am about 40-41 chest size (from the back around, I am a little buff) Should I jump to a 50 mail shirt? But that seems to big.
6mm flat rivited rings:
www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SNC270BK&name=Chainmail+Hauberk+-++Alternating+Dome+Riveted+Construction+-+Blackened+Mild+Steel+Riveted+Flat+Rings+and+Solid+Flat+Rings+-+Close+Out
What do you think? Thanks!
I think a 44 would end up binding on you with a 41 in chest and padding. 50 would probably be best. If you are interested, consider giving www.customchainmail.com a call. They will build a shirt to your size (that's where mine is from). They don't do 6mm, but offer 8mm. If you're dead set on the shirt you linked from KoA, you'd be cutting it real close with the medium. If you're willing to do some work, you can always make the 50 in a little smaller, which is easier than making a 44 in a little bigger.
Knyght Errant Hmm I see I see. I can always go to an armorer to modify it as well?
funny how much overlap there is between taking care of mail and taking care of firearms, but then it makes sense both are made of steel.
+2Sucubi1Chalice When it comes to plate armor maintenance, it's virtually identical to the procedure I use for firearms, minus the bore brushes :)
Do you have an interest in historical firearms, or does your interest lie in more modern designs?
USPS needs to work on their mail maintenance.
The Celtic shield in Gaul (known as the thureos to the Greeks) was similar to the scutum except more ovular. It was replaced in Gaul probably when Caesar conquered the area. The Gauls were probably equivalent to the Romans as far as metal working. Just like the Romans they had primitive (by modern standards) quality steel. In Gaul, weapon makers were probably run by individuals or a family so the quality varied.
+Simon The Sinda It would be, but kite shields are just as effective and lighter
Good to see you back, don't worry about your voice. This cold seems to take weeks to clear. The website is good too.
"Hi, today I'm talking about male maintenance, brought to you by Manscaped."
I love that you also mention what a "Period solution" would have been for storing mail (shirts), in such a way it would not start to rust. 👌🏻
Advice to safety: Be careful with Dust of sand or rust. Its not so healthy to inhale that.
+Nighti88 Do you mean dust of sand or dust and sand? If it is the latter we breathe dust every day, especially indoors.
"Dust of sand or rust."
Lord Stimpy I had no idea what happened here. Don't judge.
Douglas Fulmer No quarrel, I had to reread it too
Lord Stimpy :D
Knyght Eraant Just got a long chainmail 10 mm flat riveted in oil.I believe this video will be a great help to get me started to clean off the greasy oil..Oh by the way my wife almost kicked me out of the house due to the funky oil smell.Thanks again I will be checking out all your videos.
Haha, I sometimes wonder what the mystery grease is that some of these manufacturers pack their mail in. Have fun getting it clean, I'm glad the video helped!
This may have been covered before but I just wanted to let Ian know there are some sellers on ebay using an image of a guy in mail that is a dead ringer for him. All one has to do is searched "riveted chainmail". I want to know if it's him for a couple of reasons: 1) if it's him and he doesn't know, he might not want his image used or 2) if it is him and he approves, I would welcome that endorsement prior to purchasing the product.
Yes, it's a photo of me. No they don't have my permission. Other predatory sellers on ebay have also stolen images of other pieces of my armor that they use to sell their garbage. They steal photos from lots of good armorers as well, I'm hardly the only victim of this practice. Unfortunately, there's not much recourse. The eBay reporting process doesn't do much of anything, and I've also tried to go the route of claiming the copyright on the photography they used, but the process is so convoluted as to make it prohibitive.
i have had success with vinegar in place of evapo rust. soak in vinegar, pull out and wash with water and dishwashing liquid, then follow with a rinse with water. Dry it off as quick as possible then oil.
Interessting video, I'd like to throw Electrolysis into the mix.
Building an Electrolysis tank really isnt too difficult and it works wonderfully for removing rust, not only that you can also use it to de-rust just about anything thats Iron or Steel which makes it quite versatile and its gentle on the material.
Though keep stainless steel out or its gonna release some nasty chemicals.
Your website is extremely professional. What tools did you use to develop it?
I just use lots of baby oil
Sodium hydroxide solution would do best, changing the fat in to soap and with it being basic it prevents steel while drying.
For chemical rust cleaning I would prefer phosphoric acid, it turns the rust in (dark grey/black) iron-phosphate.
in a pinch, you can use Coke. dry it. then spray some Ballistol
Keeping it airconditioned will also help a lot in terms of keeping it from rusting. Cool and dry.
Get well soon Ian!
historicaly, they put the chainmail in a wood barrel with sand and roll it gently while walking
It seems that a lot of the sources indicate other media, like bran (the grain husk) rather than sand, but yes that's the basic idea.
I thought I had read somewhere of a similar method. Sand and vinegar in a barrel and rolling around a courtyard.
When I get any kind of maille I'll put it and the degreaser sollution in a lidded keg and just spin it on a couple of rollers until clean and then dry it and either oil it or soak it in molten bees wax.
i know its not historical, but is stainless steel any good for maille?
Yes, there's a decent amount of modernly made stainless steel mail that is relatively indistinguishable from modernly produced mild steel mail. I would qualify that by saying neither really looks like actual historical mail. My mail shirt and collar are stainless. All of the other mail components I own (mail sleeves, skirt, aventail) are not.
wow thanks for the fast reply! semper.
Do you still use simple green if your mail has leather attached?
You'd have to remove the leather and then re-stitch it on to clean it properly.
Will you ever make a video comparing the pros and cons of different armour designs? Mail, plate, leather, cloth, etc.. I'd love to see a series where you give your thoughts on how various armours compare.
diesel fuel will remove just about any oil out there. I've used it to remove cosmoline from a gun that was coated in it and packed full of it. Cosmoline is oil and wax and it's a bitch to get off.
There isn't much Simple Green can't do. I used to manage a mom and pop video game store and I would use it to restore old cartridges and systems to looking like brand new, and remove those horrible rental stickers too.
Whats exactly is this simple green !? We don‘t have stuff like this in Switzerland , is there something you can say about this cleaner ? Or someone else !? :)
hello +knyght errant . where did you buy your plate armor?
I don't know? ??
Very helpful videos, I am new to having real mail so wasn't sure how to clean\protect it. Thanks for much for taking the time to post these videos!
I really enjoy your videos. They are very educatives.
I looked for the web page but seems it is down.
I know that it must be a lot of work only for one person but it would be great to have it online again.
Thanks for the info. I just rediscovered a project i never finished and i am going to have to clean it up. I have a few buckets of rings too. This is going to suck. Lol
Just a word of caution, i de-greased my chain mail with simple green with no problem. Then I needed to get rid of some rust so I used Rustoleum and it turned the chainmail black…. Ruined… not sure why
I heard that you can store it in wool and it completly prevent it from rusting, is that true?
Some of my maille is sewn to leather and in my experience some products will destroy leather.
Are these products safe to use, or is another technique required?
If you can't maintain you male on your own you ain't gonna learn how from a video, am I right ladies? Ha ha ha.... Ok, I'll go sit in the corner.
I once saw documentation taking about storing chainmail in whale oil or olive oil other type of oil in wooden barrels and clay pots and cleaning by soaking in vinegar washing then soaking in oil
Chainmail is the few things that I would spend more money to get stainless steel.
there is a shot in the movie Kingdom of Heaven of someone collecting the fat dripping off a roast rabbit and rubbing it on their maille
To remove rust from mail, I spray a bit of wd40 on the affected area and then use an old and stiff brush and go at it like a maniac
Video on historical armor maintenance????
I think its just worth getting stainless mail
Is there a way you can make it smell nice? Rose oil or something?
Green-Orc stew and its uses in corrosion protection.
sand, bucket, shake. Done
Thanks Ian, for having responded to my request with this video. I hope you to heal as soon as possible.
"Simple green is people!"
What exactly is simple green? Doesnt exist in my country I think ^^
+Blank- blade Here's the Material Safety Data Sheet: simplegreen.com/downloads/SDS_EN-US_SimpleGreenAllPurposeCleaner.pdf
+Blank- blade I was about to ask the same.
Mart Shearer Thanks :)
Couldn't the hand rubbing method make the think worse if your hands are sweaty? What do you think about using a wire brush as a spot cleaner?
+Philip Dyer It would only be a problem if you left it completely unattended afterward, you'd still want to apply a protective layer. I usually put a little CLP on there before I rub the mail together and my sweat will never reach the metal. A wire brush would probably work just fine.
Ha, when you first said simple green I thought you said Soylent green and was confused.
+Mason Rudesheim That would certainly be an interesting way to clean mail, although I suspect in period, it was the soylent green that they were trying to clean *off* their mail :)
True, very true.
i'm an absolute ignorant, and i'm trying to learn about this stuff, because i'd like to own a suit some day...
is there a reason why you didn't mention WD-40?
+kenijaru WD-40 just doesn't last long enough for long term storage. It was tested in the experiment I mentioned in the video, but WD-40 tends to evaporate off of things. Products like fluid film, CLP etc pretty much last indefinitely. You can use WD-40, you'd just need to refresh it frequently. It will be effective during the 'quick dry' stage though to displace water quickly, but then you'll want a more effective long-term solution like fluid film or CLP or whatever you like. www.customchainmail.com/2014/05/29/final-results-rust-prevention-test-v2/
Knyght Errant
silly me, should have gone into the links before asking...
sadly the other options dont exist where i live, so WD-40 will have to do. At least now i know i'm not, through ignorance, making things worse.
what about removing rust from non riveted mail?
If the mail is mild steel, the only difference is that a vibratory or rotary tumbler may cause you to lose some rings because of the inherent fragility of butted mail, but the ways to remove rust aren't any different. If the steel is galvanized it should already be corrosion resistant and you shouldn't try to remove the galvanized coating if you don't know what you're doing because certain techniques can create poisonous fumes.
LOL, military man busting out the Simple Green. Fantastic.
This was really informative!! Thanks a bunch!!!
I usually just fill up my stainless steel sink with Water and Dawn dish liquid soap since its so good at stripping grease off, wash and rinse the mail thoroughly a couple times, then dry it completely while it hangs on a wooden coat hanger with a towel, large space heater and box fan. Then I just spray down the mail with CLP after its totally dry. This method has never failed me yet. Done 4 items with this method: Chausses, Hauberk and Coif.
2:18 Oh dear Lord, I remember night shifts assembling truck parts during my early university years to make money on the side, I was constantly covered in that disgusting anti-corrosion grease and spray. Does anyone actually, willingly leave that stuff on their kit? :D
Can you make a video about how to make mail voiders and skirts, and what kinds of rings to use/where to buy them? I asked Historically patterned mail, but they didn't answer.
Thank you for your awesome videos. I wanted to bring this up because it may be useful. I degreased a brand new mild steel chain-mail flat riveted coif 14 days ago by covering it with talcum powder to absorb the factory oil instead of washing it with a cleaner. After gently shaking the talcum off it appears that a microscopic, non-greasy film was left behind which appears to be protecting the coif quite well. It is not showing any signs of corrosion, however, It has been indoors all this time but exposed to air.
I have an aventail that is permanently attached to a helm by soldered metal rings. Is it possible to use a water and degreaser solution mixture in a sponge to clean it?
Should I do that to remove the grease that was placed on it when I received it, or can I apply CLP on it without doing that or cleaning it (do you have to clean it before applying CLP)? I have the aerosol can and not the spray bottle if that matters.
Also, how often would you recommend to clean and/or oil my aventail?
Here is a link to the helm I have:
grimfrost.com/collections/armor/products/viking-gjermundbu-helmet?variant=27369944521
I apologize for the many questions, I just don’t have anyone I can ask these questions to.
thank you for making this video! very informative but I still have a few questions. I recently received a viking ocular helmet with a chain mail coif attached to it. I was wondering if 1).could use trewax brand clear paste wax on the entirety of the helmet to prevent rust from forming and 2). what else could I use that prevents rust for a long time? I'm really new to the armor scene so forgive me if my question is impossible.
Hi Ian,sorry you're not feeling so good,I'm going to have a large Scotch Iemon honey & hot water you can't be too careful,cheers.
you should never worry about being sick in a video, we are just happy that you still make them even tho you are sick
Great Video Ian. I'd like to throw in on this one for anyone interested. Bead blasting works like a champ for getting mail super clean.
Fascinating, I wonder if his friends pretend to be wizards and elves.
You can add baking soda to the water to help prevent rusting.
Great video! I didn't catch it if you touched on this in the video, but what sort of coating would they have used in period? Animal fat of some sort or another? I bet stored mail would get stinky once the oil started to go rancid.
wouldn't something like acetone maybe be better to get the grease off, given that it just evaporates and doesn't need to be washed off?
Anyone know a kind of oil that has the same properties as clp from a different brand? None of the shops near me seem to sell breakfree, at least not without going to double the price when shipping is included.
Hi Errant, can a maille be parkerized like is doen with fire arms??
I don't know that anyone has tried. The only problem I foresee is that even though parkerization is very wear resistant, mail is constantly abrading itself to the point that I don't know if it would last long enough to warrant going through the process.
I would do it mainly for the darker (more towards dark grey/black-isch) look the maille would get and obviously as the inherit extra way to retain more of the rust preventive oil which needs to be on maille at all times...
Maybe they did use vinegar to make the mail black, that would be rust resistant, i also read about mail coated in tin layer used in viking time.
You should test that good riveted mail to show people once and for all that riveted mail cannot be cut (or pierced most of the times). I do not think it would dent. Well I am sure of it.
Sacrificial Towel. Gotta remember that.
Wonderful video is there any more resources to look at for getting reenactment style armor.
You said tumbler I thought of batman
Naval Jelly works great as a chemical remover as well.
Creative way of showing us the steps! good shit
Mendel Hausbuch
Where did you buy your riveted mail from?
Great information and very well presented!
How do you clean and oil aventails that are permanently attached to a helm?
It's not permanently attached, it's only attached to the liner by a simple whip-stitch around the perimeter. You cut the thread, take off the mail and clean it separately, and then re-sew it on. It doesn't need to be done very often at all.
Knyght Errant Ah I see. Sorry, I do have a different style helm with a permanent aventail (linked to the helm with rings and not sewn on). Thus is why I asked. Thank you
Awesome intro clip!
I have a question. Why dont you just put oil over the old instead of degreasing ?
The oil that ships from the manufacturer smells horrible, is really filthy and I don't know exactly what it is that they use, so I want to start from clean mail and only use the products I know are safer.
but as far as the mail goes, it will still be protected if you just add new oil on ?
If you add more oil to the grease that's already there, it will likely be so over-oiled and over-greased that it will attract all kinds of dirt and crud from the environment, so it will be protected from rust, but it will be an absolute mess.
Noted Thank you very much for clearing this up for me. Also it is really great you respond to questions and comments ! good job, very nice !
You're very welcome!
Massages and lube, got it.
Excellent video and I have a question too, could you tell us a little about that horse on your website? Do you joust and participate in such events? My last and closest experience with horses is eating them so i'd be interested in a video on that aspect of reenactment and how armor fits in.
+DushinSC That is me on the horse, but it is not my horse. That was a photo taken at a living history event in 2014. The owner of the horse is a professional jouster and he was kind enough to let me sit atop Nemesis that day to get a feel for being on a horse in armor. I've ridden many times, I've worn armor many times, but that is the only time I've done those things simultaneously. I'd love to do it more in the future.
great vid as always, i was just gifted a chainamil shirt from a great friend. its was very rusted because the oil he had used had somehow hardened and coated everything rather than keep everything lubricated, all ur tips got me back to a fairly serviceable mail shirt and i even encountered very little flashing from ur tips. thank goodness as this is my first bit of chainmail and i wasnt sure how to fully clean it
Awesome, that's great to hear. I'm glad you were able to salvage a serviceable mail shirt out of it. May it serve you well!
im curious about what finishes might have been applied to armor for corrosion resistance. while steel would eventually patina over time if properly cared for, i wonder if people tried painting armor, or accelerating the development of a patina.
+Zachary Sohn painting, bluing, gilding, tinning, one day I will do a video on historical armor finishes
can you do a video on how to actually form the rivets on riveted maille since I bought a pair of pillars which supposed to do the riveting for me but they wore out after 100 rings is there a more effective way to hand rivet dome style rivets?
Nick Graham Put the rivet through and beat it with a hammer
Super great video but there is one thing not mentioned in the video that I was wondering about. How would you go about stripping the grease and cleaning a mail coif with a ventail that is lined with leather?
Knyght Errant Ohhh I completely missed that video, but thanks a lot for the reply. That sounds like the best bet then
Nice vid and topic all in all awesome !
Have a cement mixer and alot of sand will that work ?
It should work, a tumbling media like walnut shell or something should work too. I don't know if the baffles in the cement mixer will cause a problem though.
The site has me wondering: were pattens ever known to be worn by men-at-arms or soldiers on the battlefield
+Hedge Twentyfour I can't say I've ever seen pattens depicted in a martial context. They change the way you walk and aren't very suitable to that kind of activity as far as my experience has shown.
You kinda forgot the AFTER photo of the mail rotor cleaned. Good video.
Whenever I think of historically accurate way to maintain mail or metal armor is Groundkeeper Willy yelling "Bacon Grease" =D
+klyana130 It's there, you can see the rusty mail laying on top of a piece that just came out of the tumbler, you'll note the bottom half of the photo is rust free.
Knyght Errant Oh, I thought it was one whole piece, partly rusted on the top half and expected to see a shiny whole piece next. But I did see the difference in cleaned of rust mail at the bottom.
***** No worries. It's because Tom was using old walnut shell media. The result is a dull matte finish. If you use a less worn out media or something more aggressive you will get more shine.
really interesting, thank you for uploading this! Could you tell me the sources that speak about Leather pouch?
Thanks already,
Singa
Sorry, I missed this comment: ca. 1296 accounts from the Duchy of Lancaster - "Itm. xx s xj d. in duobus saccis de coreo pro armatura comitis." Republished in Ffoulkes p.79
oh, thanks allot!
I don't know if this has been asked already but can you use electrolysis to remove the rust? It may not work on the bigger parts but maybe it could work on something like an aventail. Just a question and I wouldn't mind hearing anybody's thoughts on it.
+name more names I don't see why it couldn't be done, I've just never encountered anyone who has really tried it and I've definitely not done it myself.
+Knyght Errant Thanks for getting back to me on that. Maybe you can try it later and see what happens. Also thank you for all the great videos, They're showing me some really interesting and important stuff that I would never have thought of on my own. Since you have a web site I should probably check that considering it's easier to put more information in written format. Keep up the good work and I'm sure you'll gain a great wealth of people to teach and communicate with.
I have a question: how much time remains between rinsing the mail with water and covering it with the protection fluid without risking the mail rusts in your hands?
I've never had a problem with flash rusting. I will pull it out of the water, pat dry with a towel and lay it in direct sunlight until dry (at least 10-15 minutes) and it's always been fine. If it's particularly humid, a little WD-40 might get the water out of the rings. If it does rust, you would then have to clean it again and bet quicker with the drying, maybe using something like a hair dryer or even a heat gun.
Knyght Errant
Thank you very much for the quick reply! I think I will try your method out next summer. Some of the products you suggested are not available in Europe (I'm from Austria) but I will figure out their equivalents I can get here. Best regards from Vienna!
@Knyght Errant Might want to check out a product called ballistol. Used for black powder cleaning via emulsion in water. Dries and leaves a protective coat. Big cleaner for corrosive primers in ammunition. Mainly soviet black ammo.
Originally developed for the Imperial German Army.
Super multi purpose.
Works on wood, leather and steel. Ballistol is anti-septic and completely unhazardous for your health. Cut yourself? Apply some Ballistol (for legal reasons I state that this is not a medical advice)
Ballistol is awesome.
+shopsmart57 I've added a section in my corresponding website post on this concerning ballistol and WD-40 as an effective means to displace water during the 'quick drying' stage, but I would still advise a heavier product like fluid film or CLP for long-term storage. Ballistol did not perform well enough on Custom Chainmail's tests to be effective for the long term.
+theWolvesbane It's an all rounder but at every specific task you name there are individual products that fulfill that task much better. I heard about people who say it made there leather rot and jammed the grain of wood for further maintenance. But i like its smell.
Any thoughts on Zinc/Galvanized Mail?
It doesn't look like historical mail, and trying to remove the finish is dangerous and not worth the hassle.
Yes, but if you don't care that it is shinier and DON'T try to remove the Zinc coating = easier maintenance + safe, right?
Also, thank you for the quick reply! :)
That is correct. It just depends on what you intend to use it for. For living history and re-enactment with a focus on historical accuracy which is what I primarily do, it's a non-starter since it's so visually incorrect. If you take care of your mail, it's not too hard to keep it looking good.
Barrel with sand work ok?
It should work. A lot of people anecdotally believe that's a period solution, but the historical sources actually refer to bran (the grain husk) to roll mail in. It's not only abrasive to clean the mail, but the natural oils help protect it. Sand is not in the period sources, but it would work modernly I'm sure.
I'll give it a shot.
Would it be at all practical to make chainmail out of Bronze or Brass, or would the metal simply be too soft to hold up against substantial blows?
+TheSpaghettiKnight There are inventory records and surviving samples of latten (brass) mail. Cartridge brass can be fairly hard, and wrought iron wasn't as hard as many steels.
+Mart Shearer Really? I was always under the impression that bronze chainmail was mostly fantasy armor. I asked because Brass and Bronze don't decay from corrosion like iron or steel, so it might take less maintenance to take care of (even if it's more expensive than iron or mild steel).
+TheSpaghettiKnight They're rare, but not unknown. Mildenhall's 1344 account in the Tower Armouries contains a latten hauberk, which was carried over in the Rothwell receipt of 1353, "xxvj loricas unde iij de alta clavatura iij pro torniamento debiles, j de maille iasrant’, j de latone et xviij communes" -- 26 hauberks hence: 3 of high nailing (all riveted); 3 for the tournament, worn out; 1 of mail jazerant (covered in cloth); 1 of latten (brass), and 18 common. The Wallace Collection's A10-11 mail sleeves are also of tinned latten. It might explain the appearance of yellow colored mail worn by Robert Fitzhamon in the Tewksbury window too.
www.flickr.com/photos/pefkosmad/7857954754/sizes/h/in/photostream/
+TheSpaghettiKnight Why not go with a full cuirass? Bronze can be cast and hammered quite easily producing bronze plate of sufficient size. Iron or steel can not be turned into flat plate just like this, actually that is why I believe mail predates plate armor, before hydropowered bloomeries, furnaces and hammers it simple wasn't worth it to try and create really large plates except for things such as helmets. And even then helmets of a riveted construction are about a thousand times more common during much of the high and early medieval period.
+DushinSC If you have a flat cuirass, something is wrong.
1000th like
Should you not use a blow dryer, rust is created from the chemical reaction when oxygen reacts to the metal. So putting more oxygen on the metal, shouldn't that rust it faster?
Rust is created from the reaction of oxygen with iron in the presence of moisture. The blow dryer eliminates the moisture far faster than any oxidation effect that might be caused by the moving air stealing more electrons from the iron. Dry oxygen does not oxidize ferrous materials.
yaaay!