thanks. i got same issue. I just didn't understand one thing. why did you push the cups through the holes after deburring? just for making sure it glides through? My sprinter has gone 800.000km and now already it failed :) Also, i've seen that they weld with washers, so heat does not go directly on the cups.
Why on earth did you weld it? The original ones get out wth quite a force.. and new ones are fit with force.. Even we assume, that there is a small chance for the joint cap to get off, two spots will be just fine.. That four can pull a car...😅 Be aware that the cap is the second part of needle bearing. And that cap have surface hardening of 0.2-0.3mm. When you welded as that, the heat cause inner cracks so basically the bearing get fucked even before been used.. And at least I did not see any shaft balancing after that.. If you have used TIG weld will be less stress on the material for sure. ..
@@universalinformationentert3976 You did not answer question. We know sizes vary BUT who makes the caps and joints...NAME OF COMPANY and the actual part number you used. Most of us can figure it out with that information. Thanks, great job!!
@@mogmogman5476 Why would he list the part number he used when there are lots of variations in size, etc. People watching this would want to hold him responsible if they ordered the wrong parts. Measure the UJ that is on your vehicle and order a replacement accordingly
@@dxi8 Firstly, he did not answer the question and I am correct on that point. Next, you ask me why would he list the part? Because I asked or he could reply in his own words because you are not SYED ABDUL BASIT, who has done a great video. As for people holding him responsible for listing examples of a part(s), in the world of design and engineering the words 'for reference only' make it clear that the information is exemplary and not specific. As I clearly stated, "We know sizes vary BUT who makes the caps and joints...NAME OF COMPANY and the actual part number you used. Most of us can figure it out with that information. Thanks, great job!!" My question is not an indictment but instead a request for information and comment..... this IS the comment section I believe.
welding is very important. the grease will burn but we degrease it again, please watch full video, and lastly if you don't do welding then it will come out. and next POOR MAN will be in more pain with owner of vehicle as well. but the way the welding can be removed with small grinder. thanks for your comment.
In their infinite wisdom/planned product failure, Mercedes decided to make them non replaceable if you don't weld them then you have replace the whole prop shaft.. which is obscenely expensive. Mental.
If I had that good of a stand of hair on me head I would have jacked up the van another 4 inches. Been easier to crawl under there. You need to lube those C clamp threads and I will bet that vise has never seen an lube. Get off of the floor and away from the grit. Conditions can cause extra wear on parts.
it was great until you started running the van while literally lying under the prop shaft.... my God brother!! Ma sha Allah for the rest though.. it seems like it took a long time though? would it not be cheaper to just replace the whole prop shaft?
@@universalinformationentert3976 that they did not use a replaceable retaining clip, like old shafts have. not complaining on your repair, it was good. 👍 God Bless You.
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how not to fit u/j
thanks. i got same issue. I just didn't understand one thing. why did you push the cups through the holes after deburring? just for making sure it glides through? My sprinter has gone 800.000km and now already it failed :) Also, i've seen that they weld with washers, so heat does not go directly on the cups.
Why on earth did you weld it? The original ones get out wth quite a force.. and new ones are fit with force..
Even we assume, that there is a small chance for the joint cap to get off, two spots will be just fine.. That four can pull a car...😅
Be aware that the cap is the second part of needle bearing. And that cap have surface hardening of 0.2-0.3mm. When you welded as that, the heat cause inner cracks so basically the bearing get fucked even before been used..
And at least I did not see any shaft balancing after that..
If you have used TIG weld will be less stress on the material for sure. ..
one of the small welded points I think enough and easy removal next time
Thanks for your great video and very helpful us👍
Where are you based brother, I can see you are in Uk but where’s your garage?
this's the way to go, as a tool
very good and helpful video. thanks
Do you have a part number for the u-joints? Are they both the same u-joint? Where did you get the u-joints? Thanks
these u joints have few sizes. please measure these before buy, thanks
@@universalinformationentert3976 You did not answer question. We know sizes vary BUT who makes the caps and joints...NAME OF COMPANY and the actual part number you used. Most of us can figure it out with that information. Thanks, great job!!
@@mogmogman5476 Why would he list the part number he used when there are lots of variations in size, etc. People watching this would want to hold him responsible if they ordered the wrong parts.
Measure the UJ that is on your vehicle and order a replacement accordingly
@@dxi8 Firstly, he did not answer the question and I am correct on that point. Next, you ask me why would he list the part? Because I asked or he could reply in his own words because you are not SYED ABDUL BASIT, who has done a great video. As for people holding him responsible for listing examples of a part(s), in the world of design and engineering the words 'for reference only' make it clear that the information is exemplary and not specific. As I clearly stated, "We know sizes vary BUT who makes the caps and joints...NAME OF COMPANY and the actual part number you used. Most of us can figure it out with that information. Thanks, great job!!" My question is not an indictment but instead a request for information and comment..... this IS the comment section I believe.
why would you weld them in place? burn the grease and the poor person next time they want doing.
welding is very important. the grease will burn but we degrease it again, please watch full video, and lastly if you don't do welding then it will come out. and next POOR MAN will be in more pain with owner of vehicle as well. but the way the welding can be removed with small grinder. thanks for your comment.
In their infinite wisdom/planned product failure, Mercedes decided to make them non replaceable if you don't weld them then you have replace the whole prop shaft.. which is obscenely expensive. Mental.
nice work love it my frend
If I had that good of a stand of hair on me head I would have jacked up the van another 4 inches. Been easier to crawl under there. You need to lube those C clamp threads and I will bet that vise has never seen an lube. Get off of the floor and away from the grit. Conditions can cause extra wear on parts.
the only serious tool in the workshop is the bench vice
Very good work. Thx
it was great until you started running the van while literally lying under the prop shaft.... my God brother!! Ma sha Allah for the rest though.. it seems like it took a long time though? would it not be cheaper to just replace the whole prop shaft?
Bonjour j'ai le même problème ils me disent que je dois changer l' arbre car le croisillon serti donc je peux en mettre à l'universel
Why not use the clips?
Good video, but what a stupid design.
In what way?
@@universalinformationentert3976 that they did not use a replaceable retaining clip, like old shafts have. not complaining on your repair, it was good. 👍 God Bless You.
@20:28 why is that so loose? That will just fall out.... Edited welder...
Welding the joint is really stupid, and not puting saft back on marks even more stupid...
Total bodge