VW 1600 DP Power Pulley Install
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- Опубліковано 6 тра 2020
- A bit of chit chat and then I will put the power pulley on and do some show and tell about oil temp dipstick since we will be robbing HP from the cooling fan.
www.cbperformance.com/product... Pulley link
www.savemybug.com/ dipstick oil temp - Авто та транспорт
Hey Mr EZGZ glad you are still putting up videos on utube .you helped me out many times with your clips a few years ago when I built my sand rail and now I'm at it again with a Baja bug build 😃. Picked up a 1972 ,same year as my rail beetle with the Baja kit roughly fitted . Body is amazing had a lot of panels very professionally fitted but then the whole lot sprayed in red oxide 😠. Anyway I'm well on the way with it now , replaced the whole brake system and cleaned and sprayed the floorpan .next is dash board and make a wiring loom so progress is swift . Love your stuff it really keeps me motivated when it all seems a bit much . Many many thanks for your hard work posting such great content 👍 .regards from Mick in the UK
Wow! You must have an AE engine just like the 1600 project. Sounds like you found yourself a nice ride and are doing it right. I hope you get lot's of smiles and miles with it. Cheer's
great information as usual! i look every few hours for a new video to be up! thanks for keeping them coming! cant wait to see u open that motor up to inspect it! but carbs and flywheel first!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Hey, hey, EZ!! Another great video brother... love all the laughter in the video man... made me smile 😊😎
Glad to hear it!
You are the freakin man. Love your videos! You have a great way of expressing yourself and I love it. Keep up the awesome videos.
I appreciate that!
Thx, very usefull because I am planning to install this sand seal pulley myself
Great series buddy! When I first got my bug, the temp dipstick saved me from overheating my engine. Now that I know more, I passed it on to someone else.
Your a good man to pass it on. I should quit hording.
TheEZGZ you’re not hoarding, you’re being prepared.... there’s a difference. 😁
My piles are starting to become something, then again I’ve only been in the game about 3-4 years.... a drop in the bucket compared to you. That’s why I’m glued to your vids, I always learn something and it’s good to see how my friend is doing.
Hello Mr. EZGZ,
Back in the mid-sixties i drove a 1957 stock bodied VW sedan in SCCA amatuer sprts car racing. At that time this V-Dub was in the C-Sedan class..... Drove it on the street,to work-(i was a VW dealership mechanic)r-drove it to different Northeast sports car tracks-(licensed and Penna. stickered),such as Marlboro,Summit Point,Watkins Glen,etc....many different Penna. hillclimbs and gmknanas-(now called motocrosses.) Went through many different SCCA drivers schools to finally earn a national level SCCA license.
The car weighed a little under 1600 Lb's, stock brake system with stock riveted brake shoes,Koni shocks,decambered with an Empi rear decamber spring.
Engine was a stock 1500 case,with completely stock bottom end,blueprinted/clearanced to factory specs,mild Crane cam,type 3 VW 1500 cc pop top pistons,mildly ported single port heads with many small holes drilled through head fins, stock valve,stock but worked VW carb,lightened flywheel,stock 36 hp original split case transaxle-(nice gearing ratio-factory spec-for road racing,)Porsche 356 oil cooler,a small bypass type oil filter,car ran on stock factory 6-volt electrics,heads milled a minimum of 20 thousands,stock early 40 hp fan shroud (without heater hose ducts,no heater boxes,) larger geared oil pump, a Bursch stinger extractor system,stock pushrods-(later changed to chrome moly)-(bent one during a spirited practice/qualifying session)-had to actually borrow stock one from from my dealership new parts truck to run race,-drove that truck back home (about 40 miles)on 3 cylinders!!!!-which i had to get up very early Monday morning -to get to dealership (work)-to get it back in service for dealership parts dept. daily needs.
Oil used was Castrol R 40 weight-sometimes used a 1/2 can of STP.....inner block had a oil/crankshaft windage tray....a set of colder ranged Bosch spark plugs...Porsche stock( centrifugal advance only) 356 distributor with solid wired spark wires..
As far as power pulleys i ran them on the street....however i didn't have the confidence towards them for actual 1/2 hour to 1 hour road racing sessions...there i ran stock pulley with a stock 36 air cooling fan....back then it was thought to be a better set-up than a stock 40 hp fan because the 36 hp unit had less amount of vanes,whereas the 40 hp fan would? could? develop AIR CAVITATION? situations at up and down/ high RPM's....B.T.W.-using power pulley and/or 36 hp fan DID give more at least 'seat of the pants' least power!!
I can closely estimate the engine put out an honest 65-70 horsepower...(never really new actual real numbers of HP/torque???) B.T.W-back then none of us amateurs really new what the word TORQUE? even meant when it came to engine ratings!!!!..excepting rod bolts,cylinder heads,wheel lugs,etc....
I ran these above mods on street and all the aforementioned events for years!!-until i graduated up to a 1961 356B Porsche coupe-pushrod Super 90 GT-(FACTURY)-(SIDE NOTE-there were only approx 10-12 made that year....that car that year, ran/raced at Sebring by the factory,after that it was sold to a Florida SCCA privateer....
As far as my V-Dub-i drove it on the street-would always be able to find a (nearby the track courses)an accommodating gas service station allowing myself (for maybe a mear $5.00 lift rental tip),to change oil/filter/clean strainer,then drive it home ....Never had any major while racing breakdowns-(did break a ring and pinion during a 'show-off' street race.)....no overheating issues,no oil pressure problems....another side note >>>i would always think i would have to tear down engine maybe 3 times a year,to examine/measure for for excessive wear/tear to bearings/rings etc.-but finding everything well with-in spec..i would however once a year-re-bearing the crank and cam anyway as a precaution,clean up cylinders,re-ring,lap the valves....Believe it or not,back then everybody during a race ran with NO AIR FILTERS!!!!
Back in the sixties many amatuer SCCA racers drove their actual race cars to and from the track,many as daily drivers-(licensed,registered,inspected),roll barred,even with the normal race prepared decal-numbers-etc...there were no state/fed emission standards back then in the sixties..... GOOD TIMES!!!
Thank you,Mr.EZGZ for your videos,your hard earned and respected knowledge/tips!!!!!
Wow! I'm humbled by your experience and accomplishments. Thanks for sharing your story.
Since I built my 1776 single port I've been telling folks that somehow it;s more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a truly fast car at normal speeds. They don't get it! It is so fun to compete at a affordable level and drive all out against other people when you know it;s all about car preperation and driver ability. Know that you beat the competition not because you spent the most money but because YOU did a better job. You must have some fantastic memory's from those early days. I hope you live long enough to enjoy many more. Thanks for being part of my U tube Tribe :-)
Thank you for your reply......Yes,there were and still are lots of memories!!!!!.....I should have added in my first comment back to you that i was a much better wrench turner than a amatuer driver...however it was a lot of fun even being what they called >> an ('also ran).....My type of car amongst many others could not never ever- compete with those 1300 cc/120 hp++ - Mini-Cooper "S"s!!!......I witnessed countless times where those- also classed as C-Sedan cars, could easily compete with 283 c.i.,327 c.i. Corvettes-not only on short many turns courses,including the 'long' track airport long runways sports car venues....Thanks again...I look forward to all of your videos and projects!!! JOHN B
I remember went in my friend vw he used to take the belt out, went st racing back in the 80s in Puerto Rico
I'm thinking there was money and a little alcohol involved. Ah the good ole day's.
Hard work all time up date your engine god bless you sir😍😍
Thanks 👍
Those motors without the fan and tins on look super cool, wouldn't run that cool mind you.
Yes they do
Should touch on the pulley shims and how there is a set amount to use. What isnt used in between the pulley halves needs to go under the pulley nut.....i guess i just talked about it. Haha. Great videos my friend
Great suggestion!
Hey EZGZ, would've been good to see what you thought about tge power pulley effect on the road. I know you said you didn't expect much of a difference. But, if it's to be assessed scientifically then assessing each change one change at a time could shows us the effect of each addition / change. I'm really loving all these little changes your experimenting with on a stock core motor. Many people make a vw motor bigger when adding parts like this and never know what really made the bigger increases in power / torque.
Cheers Mat :)
Ok Boss. I'll get right on it. NOT! I ain't no Scientist, I'm a corona prisoner. I'll have my lawyer check my contract. hehehe
Great weather to be out in garage.
Yes it was!
I just installed a power pulley on a 1915 motor I'm building because I used a 30mm oil pump and a full flow cover. A stock size pulley hit the pump cover. I didn't have a spacer on hand to try so I'll try the power pulley with a 356 generator pulley first and see how that works out.
Thats what I did on my dry sump system and it did fine. I did use an external oil cooler though. Center mount fan shroud.
@@TheEZGZ I'm running 2 external coolers and a thermostatic controller for 2 fans.
That was neat.
Thanks!
I like my original Kadron linkage! Like me not perfect 👌 we get along
I am jealous of your patience......
Mr. EZGZ, I was wondering what the rear tire size, rim width, and brand is on that buggy thanks, I enjoy your videos.
The Rims are Centerline and they are out of buisness. There are a few copy cat company's making them in cast aluminum. The rears are now 235/75/15 on 6inch wide. The fronts are 165/80/15 on 4 inch .
I prefer 5.5 fronts and 8 on rear rims with the same tire size
I’m having a problem with the belt alignment being way off. I’ve bent all the tins and still my belt alignment is way off. I’m wondering if this power pulley and shim will allow the crank pulley to come out just enough so it will not kick the belt on its first start up.
This is my first vw rebuild and first engine rebuild ever. So any pointers or information you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
On a first rebuild I would stick with stock pulley. It moves more air. If you bought a good power pulley you shouldn't have to bend tin.
Isee all your video… all great even old video also
Great
And still you not sell any from your cars👍👍👍👍👍from 6years and more same cars!!!!
Thanks 👍
I changed one head on my 1500 motor and the rocker arms when you tighten them down they hit the springs and I measured the towers and it looks like there a 16th different so can I shim The Rocker assembly up
Yes! Just make sure that they are both the same. In a pinch I have used washers from the hardware store and filled them down to fit the base. Everything must be smooth and flat and equal.
@@TheEZGZ thank you easy easy it seems like they're working just fine I went and bought some Shams from a local Volkswagen place here and Southside Oklahoma City and they seem to work fine but for 500 miles on it so far running great thank you again
your vids are always interesting, by the way what ever happened to your dog .
Someone else has the dog. She is in a good home.
did test drive it to see if there is a difference
No, it got real windy and I did the flywheel and carb. Stay tuned.
I am embarrassed to say that I reached in the open window to start my freshly painted bug once in the garage like you did and was horrified when it lurched forward because it was in first gear. It jumped into my workbench, broke it, and dented the mint hood. I cried. I took the hood to a body shop and the did the best they could to hammer and dolly the dents out and. then re-paint the hood but it has served to remind me to always leave the car in neutral with the parking brake on in case I brain fart again and try to start it without removing my head from ass first.
You never forget those kind of lessons. Lucky I had the E brake on and it was a start button.
Watch out for the "might as well's" they turn a quick job into a long one
Your right about that. Good to hear from you Tim. I hope all is well on your side of the pond. Cheers!
i used a power pulley when my engine keeps throwing the belt out, and its only a 1600 with a scat c25 cam, maybe theres something wrong with my stock pulley :)
Sounds like it;s working now. Thumbs up
👍
Thank you sir
I can just hear the horse power adding up.
Yeah and the seat of my pants is getting thin. hehehehe
Wait a min! There is more than just Glamis! No way.
Didn't mean to burst your bubble. LOL
Anytime you paint and sparkle you can add 5 visual horsepower.🤪
Then it fades away or the kids wreck it. hehehe
Pulley install leads to a 20 part EZGZ series linkages exhaust heads ........ Blame the corona :)
All I really wanted to do was clean my garage....... but then I kept finding these bits and peaces. hehehehe Love your name VD
Make one
Turbo 2.3L
Why ????????????? That takes money I don't have.
@@TheEZGZ used parts can do it
Why you back to 1600cc engine?????… .from 2054 to 1600 again why?
Corona Lockdown. Can't go anywhere. Had this old 1600 and I always get questions as to what can they do to get more power so I thought I would give them ideas for cheap upgrades without spending $$$$$
@@TheEZGZ nice thx 😍😍😍😍😍
Not a good idea for a driver. Engine runs hot and you can't find a belt for it. Stock is rock!
Never said is was good for everyone now did I. Stock is for folks who play it safe and how fun is that.....
@Frank Garrett Probably, but it will make your heat and defrost less effectivbe since there won't be as much air going threw the heater boxes at a given RPM. This is why I have so many cars.......