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Part 1 Kingsbury Michell Aerodynamic Bearing Collab Construction
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2020
- Part one of the machine work and precision grinding for the Kingsbury/Michell aerodynamic bearing construction. In this video we tackle the rotor starting out in the lathe followed by the Makino CNC to engrave the all important makers mark, Heat treat and grinding. This was a collaboration project with Steve Mould in the UK. Check out Steve's channel and his video on the collaboration. / steventhebrave
Steve's video on the Self Levitating Bearing. • The Self-Levitating Ki...
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I am an aero engineer and I learned more from our shop techs than I ever did from other engineers. Your research is beyond impressive, thanks for uploading so others can learn!
Also a retired aero engineer (Rolls Royce Bristol) learning more withe every episode.
The thing about machinists is when we read about a really neat gadget, it will slowly eat away at us until we finally just give up and make one. Learn a lot about stuff in the process.
Hey Ted,
Thanks for the nice comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The rabbit hole diagram brings to mind the James Burke series "Connections" from the 70s/80s.
Loved all his programs. James Burke never stopped the connections theme, some interesting books and audio out there, including his website...look up "Admiral Shovel and the Toilet Roll"
Still my favorite show
make a similar comment and scroll down and *bewm* beat me to it...
always loved how often beer connected like, everything...
Tom, I’m just catching up on this project and I wanted to say how much I appreciate your video style. It is as if I’m standing there, looking over your shoulder and you are describing the steps as you build something.
Thanks, Jim
Came here from watching Steve Mould and find it impressive the amount of work, precision and skills required to make parts like this.
I think this is the coolest video I have ever seen
Really liked your finishing quote about accuracy, precision and resolution. Good stuff.
I'm in tears (of joy and awe) over the rabbit hole diagram. We need more of those.
Very familiar and interesting subject, US Navy uses Kingsbury Thrust Bearings in Main Engine shafting, reduction gears, turbine driven blowers and pumps. Oil wedges of course, not aerodynamic but same principle. I was a Machinist Mate in the Navy.
Hi Tom, I just want to thank you for this great content. I have just completed my first real lap, and it went great, much thanks to you. I made a set of aluminum-laps using the 3 plate method, which I learned from you. The piece I was lapping was the end of a small steel cylinder, diamter 28mm. After only a 3-4 hours, I could wring my mitutoyo blocks to it, and the optical flat (1/10 band) showed completely straight lines all across, except for about 1-1.5mm at the perimeter where it dropped about half a band. I'm looking forward to more lapping content.
Riveting stuff, where the world's of science, arts and craft collide. Beautiful.
Subscribed for life
I've been watching Steve's stuff almost as long as I've been watching you. I always learn something from both of you.
seeing the indicator barely move as the roter rotates is so nice.. it makes me smile
Happy birthday Tom.
I'm happy to see the KE55 back in action!
Great as always, thank you Tom.
Really love the blue plastic film you put on the indicator to stop the flare. Image seems crisp and looks like a soution to a long term problem for the youtube machining world.
Great video, the whole gage block wringing effect is facinating, i have a metrology book showing a bowling ball hanging from a stack of gage blocks. You mention in your chart Faraday and capacitance...you should measure the capacitance across the conductivity terminals and see what it is and if it changes with speed and the effective air cushion thickness.
Enjoyed....wish you would have mention the grinding wheels (selection)
I like the idea the part is hiding in the stock, insane work to take a big old chunk of steel and turn it into a precision component like this
He is paraphrasing Michaelangelo
I hope that people who come here from Steve's channel take some time to thumb through your back catalog. Not a euphemism.
Although I don’t possess the intellectual capability to understand everything you do, I sure appreciate you sharing your trade with us.
You are welcome! Part of my responsibility to share with others.
Cheers,
Tom
In awe of your machining skills.
Loctite 380 is the number Tom was referring to for Black Max. Good stuff Tom
Thank you! I could not pull that off my hard drive during the video.
Cheers,
Tom
You were talking about that not being a fancy o-ring groove, you could put an o-ring in it, and a small step up motor to spin it real good instead of using a string. Of course I know that would add a bit of complexity to design but I think that would be neat! It could be like a turntable the motor spins it up and then steps to the side.
Man its so cool to see you go through all of your expertise with this stuff, it must have taken ages to learn all of that. . . Thanks for sharing!
You are having way too much fun, Nice work Mr. Wizard!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin! Always nice to see your comment.
Cheers,
Tom
im used to science/math YT creators working together all the time. Gotta LOVE when science/math creators work with maker creators tho, as that's much rarer.
So glad I found this channel from your colab with Steve. Your workmanship is really impressive and very fun to watch!
Thanks for the nice comment!
Cheers,
Tom
That was some very nice work. I am sure in the end this will wind up better than perfect. Thanks for the video.
Just another comment (assuming there were indeed others), letting you know the collab worked, and I discovered your channel by way of Steve Mould's video... I guess its kind of ''self selecting", in that I already had/have an interest in machining (purely as a hobby, even have a small milling machine). This is fascinating to watch (as most machining videos are), and I like your style of videos.
Nice stuff Tom, I'm always learning !! Thanks a bunch, Cliff
Great info Tom, I did not know about the low head cap screws being machined. Great quote at the end too!
I'm no machinist - don't even own a garage / shed yet, much less a lathe (so I'm probably mis-understanding something).
I was somewhat surprised though, to see that you drilled the hole and tapped it before you centred the disk. I suppose it doesn't matter as it's not a high speed bearing but still...
But other than that observation, very interesting to watch you work. Love the blued steel as it spins off the cutter.
If you can ever make it onto a Tom Lipton chart with the legend listing you as "Cool Dude" you have officially succeeded in life. :-)
Great work as always, Tom. Love the quote. Cheers.
Lapping is a gateway drug :)
Lovely work as always. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the video Tom.
You are the best. Big Like.
Keep it coming, Tom!
i almost didn't watch this series, i don't have much interest in the spinning top. but as usual your tools and techniques for getting a job done have sucked me in. keep it coming tom.
If UA-cam had a star rating, this video would be 4/5 starts. With metric units 5/5!
Shoot yeah!! I love Tom Lipton projects!!
Thanks again Tom!
Can’t wait to make this
very cool, thanks for the video and lessons
I'm curious about any "balancing" that may need to be done on the rotor, you know, since we're doing all this precision machining and grinding from a "Not-so-secret" government lab Machinist "extraordinaire"!! I'd actually would have liked to seen the Ox-Tool logo engraved in a Triad arrangement to facilitate the minuscule amount material removed. (This whole build is something I find very cool and I'm nerding out on!! If ONLY I had a lathe and surface grinder!! Amazing Sh!t!
Big deep cuts 😍
To fully appreciate the portent of these bearings is how they are defacto standard in all Navy Vessels today. And this was all for seen, hence the battles for patent rights.
I was just using anchor lube while taping some aluminum plate. I find the product to work just great.
"This isn't a fancy O-ring groove" Actually I had the idea of putting a fat and slightly undersized diameter O-ring in that groove. This would allow a friction surface to externally spin the top disc. A Dremel tool or similar with a round puck on low speed should do the trick.
Man, with as little spinning resistance as these things have, a Dremel could probably accelerate them to a rather terrifying speed... 😅
It could form the basis of a centrifuge.
Speaking of rabbit holes, I had some machining lessons back in high school >25 years ago. Wasn't anything super in-depth, I think it was 2 hours every other week, and I haven't really done anything with it since, but I get some of the basics so it's not too hard for me to conceptualize things like depth of cut, feed rates, what the different axis do and whatnot. From my position at the mouth of this particular rabbit hole, I can see down the ways a bit, and it's also not that hard to see that with more knowledge of these concepts, experience, knowledge of the capabilities of the machine you're working on etc. more refined projects are possible. Not that I'd be able to do it, but I think I have at least some idea of what I don't know.
Except 4 jaw chucks. Whenever I see someone, like Tom in this video or Abom or This old Tony or... centering a workpiece in one of those and get it to incredible precision within 2-3 revolutions, that's just magic to me. Usually by the time they finish, my brain is still stuck on the first adjustment "ok, so that bit was sticking out a bit so that jaw needs to get tightened in a bit". I guess that's the mark of an experienced machinist. Also, the brushes to apply cooling fluid/oil, is there some sign above every workshop saying "your brush must be at least this ratty before use"? :D
4 jaw work is really not that complicated. It’s usually poor explanation that fouls it up for most.
With work snug in the chuck, pick 2 opposing jaws. Choose one of the two and set dial indicator to zero. Roll chuck to opposite jaw and note total reading.
Adjust jaws so both read zero.
Repeat for other pair of jaws.
Alternatively, after noting total indicator reading roll chuck until needle points at 1/2 the total reading, rezero dial. Work jaws until all jaws read zero.
How to dial within 2-3 revs? Use 2 chuck keys. Reason being that with only 1 key you can adjust jaw position only so much before work can fall or shift out of the chuck. 2 keys allow you to maintain contact of both jaws to workpiece over any amount of adjustment.
Best of luck if you plan to improve in that area, theory helps loads but does nothing without seat time.
Dimensioning your string groove in the OD. I was taught it was bad practice to indicate a dimension more than once on a drawing. In the future if you or someone else decides to change a dimension on the drawing, the should have to search the drawing to figure out where else either directly or indirectly that dimension is indicated. A drawing that shows the same feature with two different dimensions is sin buena.
So what's the McMaster part number for the continuity octopus?
88088
Every time you mention Mr. Wizard I think of Don Herbert on the TV show I used to watch as a kid. He has an interesting history and various episodes are available on UA-cam. I'm sure he was a very positive influence on many kids that are now scientists and engineers.
What an interesting device! Great project! Could this be made from mild steel without the heat treat?
You could embed some magnets and use some simple electronics to make a self contained motor. Look at UA-cam "Tinker Jim" for a very clever ultra low power motor. The electronics are fairly simple but to achieve low low power he used a hand made coil with 10,000 turns of fine wire. I made a PCB for him. On a small battery this would spin forever.
When and where will the drawings be available?
The short answer is yes. You would have to re-lap the working surfaces frequently to keep it working.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco I see McMaster sells disks of A2, and my local metal place has some 7/8 plate, so A2 it is. I guess only the lapped surfaces need to be hard so maybe the rest could be something else. I will likely put some Neo-magnets in it so it could drive itself. Each magnet triggers a tiny drive impulse so the more the better. There needs to be some space between them, use maybe a dozen or so. Controlling the magnetic field around all this steel might get interesting. Attracting a single particle to the lapped surfaces would be fatal. If I hide the drive system I could claim perpetual motion. I have a surface grinder, optical flats and a light but I have never lapped anything. This might get interesting.
You make everything look easy, I'm sure it's not.
Is the Rabbit Hole Diagram on the website? Cuz it's fabulous. I especially like marking "lapping" as the Gateway Drug.
Shoot me an email and I'll send you a PDF version.
Cheers,
Tom
Hamilton Beach Temper & Toast, every shop should have one. Makes a nice little heat em and eat em pizza too.
less a rabbit hole diagram and more a james burke episode of ‘connections’ style...
i think i would implement these bearings inside of a large Stirling Engine... As long as the engine isn't bumped around a lot and the bearing parts are the same temperature and material.... should work a treat. probably fill it with helium working gas.
Love it!!
36:30 y'all KNOW my boy Tom knows a thing or two about getting WAP
32:50 I now know what the 3 sea shells are for!!!
Must have been tough deciding between blue and yellow for Charles Babbage
Nice! A little concerned with the imbalance introduced with the logo cutout on one side. Thanks Tom
I studied maxwell's equations in calculus based physics II, it's a rabbit hole alright.
Anyone else catch his reference to Mr Wizard? I loved watching that show when I was a kid.
I probably became a scientist because of Mr. Wizard. I almost blew myself up because of him, too.
Only two tool projects added to my list out of this one... wonderful stuff Tom. One question: How did you maintain surface perpendicularity with the center threaded hole after the heat treat? You took out the bow with the cool washer trick, but what aligned the surface plane with the center hole axis or didn't it matter?
Good question. If you go back and look at the video of the bearing running you will see some shaft wobble from the very thing you mention. I could grind a local spot there that is flat and parallel to the working face but I don't think its necessary for function.
Cheers,
Tom
For anyone who is interested, the first link will take you to some further information on Michell, and the second to a collection of photos and exhibits mostly to do with him using his slipper bearing to design crankless engines. The size of his crankless engine in the engine bay (so as to speak) of his personal early Buick makes you wonder where the engine has gone. It never caught on despite his efforts, too much money was already invested in the well established conventional engine.
adb.anu.edu.au/biography/michell-anthony-george-maldon-7567
collections.museumsvictoria.com.au/articles/3625
There is debate as to who actually invented the tilting slipper bearing system, Michell or Kingsbury and really, it doesn't matter. Kingsbury appears to have been first although Michell patented his design earlier. What is clear is that they developed their two versions totally independently. Michell took a more theoretical path to his design.
He wrote a number of papers on Lubrication and a complete monograph in later life. Lubrication was not his only field of study, In 1904 Michell published a paper on structural optimisation which is widely considered to be the seminal paper in the discipline. A discipline that would only come to fruition some 50 years later.
Bob
Can you give us a link for the octopus 🐙
Did it warp because you dumped it on the aluminium block, rapidly cooling one side before the other? Beautiful job as usual!
Yes. The rapid one side cooling was the cause of the warpage. Totally avoidable. But then you wouldn't have seen a good way to correct the problem.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco probably is no good way unless levitation is a skill you're hiding!
I know you have been at this a long time and I love to learn so don’t know if you know this trick on the late I mark two of my four jaws on my chuck with a marker and barely loosen up two that are not marked so when I flip my part the two marked stay the same and tighten the two not marked most of the time I get all most perfect every time less time with indicator
So this is probably a stupid question but why did you buff down the washers if you were just going to take them off later?
Nice!!
Dear Tom, will the marking influence the concentricity of the disk while spinning? And if yes, are you going to balance it 🤠 As allways, love your builds and explonations
Stay save
Regards from Switzerland
Hi Marco. This assembly doesn't spin that fast. I don't think balancing it will have much effect on performance. Eliminating the sources of friction on the pin and contact will probably do more good.
Cheers,
Tom
Looking to build one for a school project and was wondering if the bearing will still work well if I make it at a smaller diameter
Yes. You should be able to scale this down considerably. I don't think there would be a problem making this in a two inch outside diameter.
cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco thanks!
where is Steve Mold comment here?
On lathe videos, I always see the center drill move around radially just as it touches the workpiece. Does that affect the accuracy of the the center hole location?
Sorry i'm french ; but am i experiencing an optical illusion when around 26 minutes i see the grounding head tilting upward when passing on the piece ? hope i made sense. Cheers anyway !
ps: what are the applications of such a cool and weird piece of ingineering ?
fun fact, Hard drives use hydrodynamic bearings as well. they have a 5 micron gap... because of surface speed.
a school mate in that industry liked it to something like flying a 747 15 feet off the deck, IIRC.
The new high speed hard drives with pressurized helium run at a handful of Nanometers above the disc. Very impressive stuff.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco it is impressive. and He is much less viscous than regular air. However that introduces an issue with the HDDs in a home setting. The less viscous He gives far less impact protection than normal air, which is what consumer HDDs are full of. at ambient pressure too.
Did your grinder come with coolant or did you add that and perhaps some or all of the dust shield? Do you have a video on modifying your lathe chuck and making the standoffs?
There are videos on both. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, not asking for a deep dive... but, "Cool Dude" piqued my interest...
Its what we all aspire to be.
Cheers,
Tom
Very informative, how come you didn't rotary grind them, just curious. Also entertaining as usual.
Hi Jack. They just need basic flatness for now. They actually get lapped to 1/4 wave and a 2 micro-inch finish after grinding.
Cheers,
Tom
Million dollar question: So could this be built using simple cold rolled material or some other cheap steel?
Million dollar answer
It's in a lot of cars already made with just that.
But it won't work dry
So if you’d made them symmetrical, so that they had a recess on both sides, do you think that would have avoided the cupping, or would it have just cupped in a random direction?
The cupping was from the aluminum plate quench after heat treating. Didn't occur to me that it might warp. Totally my fault and could have been prevented. But then you wouldn't have seen how to correct something like that cup.
Cheers,
Tom
It is kinda same reason to float as paper or a card
I'm always curious regarding surface grinders. Does the decay of the stone over the part never come into play? Surely some materials will remove some of the stones material over the course of grinding a part. Is it noticeable or just beyond measurement?
The grinding wheel does wear, but the step-over is much less than the width of the wheel. Tom mentioned in this case the wheel advances 0.040 inches per pass. So on the initial pass the first .040 width of the wheel cuts (and wears some). Then on the next pass, the next (unworn) .040 of the wheel cuts the same surface again, and so forth. Each succeeding pass cuts the same area by a part of the wheel that is worn less than the previous. This makes the error due to grinding wheel erosion much less than you would think. And the wheel is periodically dressed to true it and remove the uneven wear. Make sense?
It would be cool to know your speeds and feeds for guys like me that don't know anything........cool video Tom loving the close ups I bet I can see better than you
You are probably right. When I edit the videos sometimes I see things I didn't see when I was making the part.
Cheers,
Tom
Hello Tom. Do you know how difficult it would be to use 440C stainless steel instead of A2? This would reduce potential corrosion issues on the bearing surfaces.
Should work fine. You just need a hard surface to maintain the flatness and finish of the surface.
Cheers,
Tom
why put so many holes in the pice just go around twice , on the same plat .
Tom, what are you using to write your G-Code?
Also, does your Fanuc control run modern code (thousands of tiny G1 moves)?
I use a CAM system to program the machine. The machine is capable of surfacing and contouring with zillions of tiny moves. It is hampered by a small internal memory so big programs have to be drip fed to the machine.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom. I've been a subscriber for a long time now but thinking of the new viewers being sent over from Steve's channel, a lot of people won't be familiar with machining terminology, maybe you could explain the steps you're taking in a bit more detail as you're doing them? Just thinking a brief explanation of orders of operations, maybe go over the design of the part and how you plan to get each feature in there?
I'm just thinking about using terms like 'runout' or 'DRO', those new to the channel might not understand what these are, I know it took me a while to get to know the lingo.
That's what the other 500 videos in my catalog are for. Interested folks will ask or do their own research and the folks that already know won't be annoyed. As you mention its a delicate balancing act of good information and not being too pedantic.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Absolutely, your other videos are all excellent, absolutely not criticising at all, just thinking of how to 'hook' the uninitiated :)
Makes the nose of solid
The higher the resolution the bigger the problems lol. This reminds of the LIGO, which detects changes to within 1/10,000 the width of a stupid proton lol. Think of the rabbit holes there sheesh. Looking forward to the next one.
"Lapping" is a Gateway Drug... hahaha
Hi Tom,
Why don’t you face off the back stop?
They are below the surface of the jaws. I would have to remove the jaws or back them way out to face the pads. They wouldn't last long either but its probably the most accurate way to square them to the rotation.
Cheers,
Tom
I love you Tom!!! Is that a Bush poster in the back?
Time stamp please.
:35
@@ryanjordan7113 So we have Steve McQueen, James Hunt, Parker Majestic, Moore tools, an old periodic chart, and several decimal charts.
Cheers,
Tom
Just thinking Tom how many viewers would see this tool useful in there shop ? . I THINK a Face Driver expertly explaid by you would be more useful to them it's not well known but it's a jewel in gunsmithing and tool and Die work . Cary on . 😹 .
Tom, I wonder: is your pen name "Unknown"?
I wonder how functional a 3D printed one could be. Probably need steel or ceramic balls for the pivots.
I was thinking about that too, but you would still need to go through all the machining and lapping processes etc. but I think hardness is still important to it's function if not longevity.
@@jamesshimek5694 It might be enough to use a lapped surface as the build plate. 3D printed plastic will pick up a holographic diffraction grating if you print on top of one, so matching a lapped surface should be no trouble.
At least that’d suffice for the surfaces that need to be flat.
Has the Makino CNC been on a meatloaf before?
I did a quick introduction on a fairly recent meatloaf.
Cheers,
Tom
Going a lil fast on the rpm for a dia that size. Nice finish tho