This is definitely the best reference for installing these terminals that I've found. And I absolutely believe the 6AWG thick stranded romex you have is the correct wire to use with the terminals, it makes all the difference in my installation to use the correct wires for this AC In/Out. Everything here agrees with the inverter manual. I do push my wires in with the tip of the wire strippers, but that's after wrapping additional stronger padding around the wire so there's no abrasion--I'll try the method you showed instead! Thank you for posting this... Seriously differentiating yourself as a leading Victron distributor for knowledge like this. There's an old midnite e-panel building video where they show modifying lineman(?) pliers by sanding down the grit and putting a smooth/curved edge on them, then they use those pliers to make precise bends in thick but stiff wires like this, which inspired me to add temporary padding before trying to use pliers to wrangle wire insulation.
Love the tug test, you are the only guy on youtube suggesting using a longer section of wire in the inverter case, genius makes a much more flexible and less likely to have a poor connection with increased resistance possibly creating heat melting the wire and/or connector. Awesome tips here, you obviously have a lot of experience doing this. Larry
Yes, Dexter is well seasoned in this. He started out working toward becoming a journeyman electrician in commercial/industrial environments prior to branching out into solar. His real world experience is very highly valued!
Agreed. 6/4 has 4 insulated 6 awg wires, where as 6/3 has 3 insulated 6 awg wires plus ground. Both work the same only difference is the insulated ground vs bare which, Victron does not require the PE to be 6 awg or insulated. Just in case anyone wanted clarification.
I am very happy with my Multiplus 2. It’s an amazing piece of equipment. Using exposed Romex wire is not recommended because it doesn’t provide the same protection as conduit. Romex is a type of cable which combines several THHN conductors together in a plastic sheath, but is intended to be used inside a concealed wall, such as running a circuit inside the wall of your house for a range or dryer. It is not allowed to be exposed, that's why any exposed wires are always inside a type of conduit, EMT, PVC or flexible conduit. When you use Romex in an exposed location it is unsafe according to the NEC. Most people doing DIY solar should understand this basic rule, and not have any AC wires exposed in their installation. Flexible conduit is the easiest to work with, and all the connectors and fittings are available at a big box store like HD. If you know an electrician, ask for their advice, they are all trained in how to install everything to code.
The area shown is covered by a metal panel when installed. Why are you trying to make the case that they're "exposed wires"? Your post is confusing because it sounds like you own one, did you just forget to put the cover back on or something?
Hi Mark, I am referring to the cable that exits the metal panel, the black plastic covering. In my installation I used 3/4” EMT conduit with 6 AWG wire to the subpanel, because it is in my garage. I worked as a commercial and residential solar electrician and this is standard. Type NM (non-metallic) cable is by itself not protected from physical damage, and is only allowed inside walls. In an RV electrical equipment compartment would be different.
The entire RV is wired in this stuff. Yeah, I wouldn't use it in a high impact area but you have to be smart about shielding things when they need to be. My 4/0 12v wiring isn't in conduit either.
Not the best connectors. However it’s really great you are helping people who are not experts as a lot of off grid people need to learn how to do things properly and be safe. Great content and work guys!
Thanks for the video. I love the Multiplus II, but hate the spring terminals. It took me about two hours to connect the AC wires to the spring terminals. If you use 6/3 Romex, it would probably be easy. But, I used 6/4 SOOW. The wires are not as stiff as romex and are extremely difficult to insert into the spring terminals. Every screw driver I tried (and I have several) would not depress the spring terminals enough to insert the wires enough for the terminals to hold the wire securely. Using needlenose pliers did not work because the wires are too soft to push into the terminals. At the other end of the cables, I installed a spice box with screw terminals that took about 5 minutes to hook up. Another thing of note, connecting the wires on a workbench is probably significantly easier than connecting them in the RV.
Doing this install now and using this video for reference has made it much easier. Other videos tell you to do the exact opposite of this video. I should be done shortly and have collected video allong the way. Thank you for this video.
He said...."while its not my preference, most customers are wiring this up with romex. This is a 6/4 romex." but then he never says what his preference is? What is your preference?
Great video! I wish I would have seen it before I installed mine, in my RV, that definitely looks like a much easier method. I straight cut them to have a shorter length inside. However I did measure the 3/4 strip & put a mark with a sharpy at 1" on the insulation so I knew when they were all shoved home in the connector. I fought with those wires getting them in...I think I learned a few new words along the way as well...lol I will be redoing those connections your way, in the spring before we start using our RV again. I just hope I left myself enough extra to redo it..if not it will be an expensive lesson buying another roll of romex.. Thank you, Brad
I saw this video the day before I hooked it up and with out the knowledge in your video it would have been extremely difficult to do But with your advice it was a snap! Thanks Dom
Thank you, this was very helpful. I have this exact product arriving in a few days, and have been trying to find instructions like this for how to properly wire up this kind of terminal. Good timing!
If you must ever use pliers to grip something and not dsmage the surface, you could wrap either insulating tape, or what we call "masking tape" (in Australia) around each of the jaws. This still provides a fairly solid grip, and damages the object less. Good video, I'll watch them all.
Good man, good job done there. However I'm slightly concerned about this kink in case the radius of bending is lower on a lower quality CCA type wires which have flooded the market. IMO I'd like to put a ferrite ring over there and wrap the cable around it achieving two goals at once: Stoppage anchor in case of pulling the wires accidently and noise filtering which is present in all electronic equipment.
It’s best practice to do it that way as if you’re going to put it in doing it neat is good but on the AC side it doesn’t suck Erin and it’s advised to stop it doing that but on the DC cable size it actually sucks through the whole
These are much better. They are properly rated pushed terminals. They have a large amount of metal inside if you buy some of this exact brand and take them apart.
Great, great video instructions. I am looking to buy a MultiPlus II 3000/120 for my Sprinter and this is very informative. Do you sell them pre-programmed per customer?
Good info to learn before I start. Thank you. For my AC out I am going to a generator hook up point that is not being used. 50 AMP RV. 4 wires in the generator hook up that goes to my AC distribution panel. Red, Black, White, and Green. How would I hook this up to my multiplus II AC out ports?
It’s worth knowing that if you’re asking how to do this, you probably don’t have the technical knowledge or practical skills to do this properly a professional would be highly recommended just because there’s going to be safety things you do not get
There is a reason we don't use that connection on outlets/switches. A lot of mobile homes have burned because of them. My EG4 and SolArk have better connections than those.
If you’re not using high current on the cable, it is generally fine but there are proper calculation methods you use or graphs or potentially tables that help you decide
I dont understand the purpose of the screwdriver jamming it in there for an install? Are these not push in wire connectors? They push in easy but dont pull out without the screwdiver??
I just used your method today and it worked beautifully "except" the green block for L1 on AC Out separated from the rest of what I thought was a solid block. Is this an issue or am I still fine?
You mentioned that it's not your favorite choice of wire? Is that because it's so stiff with fewer larger strands than a more flexible wire? What would you recommend? I assume thinner stranded wire but not ferrules since they would impede the springs ability to spread out the wire and make a good connection?
Solar guys who love fat beautiful finely stranded copper monstrosities for wiring inverters and $$$ battery banks are embarrassed to find themselves next to 6AWG romex even when it's the correct tool for the job. I totally get it. But it's the correct tool for this size of AC wiring, and the terminals depend on stiffness of these large strands to function correctly (this is my belief after operating the terminals with more than one kind of wire).
I have a generator transfer switch. I don't have a generator. My fith wheel has gen prep. I am wondering can I just pull out the transfer switch run 6/4 wire on the incoming shore power side use lug blocks to the inverter? Then from the inverter back to where the transfer switch was lug blocks to the line going to the breaker panel? Or would it just be best to pull all the 6/4 wire out that came on the 5th wheel make a continuous run from the shore power to the inverter inverter continuous run to the breaker panel?
what is the smallest wire size you can use on the AC out 1 & 2? I'm only going to run a 20 amp outlet off either of them (for inside hobby battery backup). the outlets will be only about 2ft away from the multiplus unit. I can't see using 6awg wire for an application that won't draw more than 20amps.
The problem is in the United States outlets do not have fuses in the plugs whilst some of the countries day so it has to be rated for the full current of the inverter unless there is anything to strip out like a breaker that’s my recommendation. You should probably do reset, but if there’s a software option to limit the current, I would enable it, it’s just you potentially could come into a situation where an appliance fails and uses a little bit more than it should
On my multiplus 24/3000 Victron inverter, I only have three connectors, which I wired up with 6/3. The ground I have going separately to its own lightning rod. I’m wondering if I need to ground to the main panel, as I have two 50 amp breakers for my solar connection. The only ground on the main panel goes to its own in ground rod , i’m figuring that’s part of the electrical companys. My problem now is that my lights flicker when I’m using a load like the microwave. Is this because of the ground or lack of? 🖖
I don't think you were supposed to add an additional grounding point. On my system, the AC Out ground connects to the main panel ground, which then has a grounding rod.
@@benjones8977did that fix ur flickering issue? I believe there are different scenario’s in different countries, states, jurisdictions concerning earthing, this maybe something u need to check out further for ur locality.
Do they offer a different method to connect wires??? I hate this spring method. This is the only reason I hesitate to purchase Victron, and Ivwant to purchase a Victron!!! Just can’t buy with this connection system!
These terminals are more than fine. They are made to the very very high European standards and the much higher standards of certain countries inside Europe as well if you use individual conductors inside metal pipe or flexible stuff. I’m not sure exactly what you call it in the United States but that would be very easy to terminate.
SO WHY DOESN’T VICTRON FIX THIS AND PUT BOLT DOWN TERMINALS I AM A BIG FAN OF VICTRON BUT I HATE THOSE SPRING CONNECTORS ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE!!! I CAN NOT JUSTIFY USING VICTRON ON MY JOBS UNTIL THIS IS CORRECTED!
It’s not a problem only in America where people can’t understand how to use a terminal or even watch the manufacturers video. This is designed with European safety standards in mind and it has to be of a highest standard than the United States requires so it can be approved for Europe.
One thing that people need to realise if you do not know how to use a terminal correctly personally I’m going to say you don’t have the required experience or knowledge to do this this is a European product designed with European style connectors as well
So dumb that they use spring terminals and not screw down terminals. Much better install than I've seen other people do... but why not use SOOW or SEOOW? Still 600V but much more flexible. Crimp a ferrule on the end of each wire as well.
Most RVs here have existing cable installed that matches the video. While SOOW is best it’s not realistic because replacing the whole shore power wiring is not always practical or cost effective
Spring terminals are not dumb they are built to the European safety standards which are much higher than United States. These units are meant for the European market but imported to America.
I love Victron components and I have 2 of these MPs but the fact you have to make a video showing how to use these connectors says it all. They are crap and should have never been used. Also, your thought that the grommet has to be tight to seal is hilarious given the giant slot just to the right of the gromets. Not at all important. You need enough grommet to keep the wire from chafing on the metal and then the wire should be secured tightly as early as possible exciting the housing. Movement of wires is the enemy. And yes, I go straight in with my wire. I make sure they aren't too short to begin with.
We make this video because there are a lot of DIYer's that are not licensed electricians and don't completely know what is required to meet code requirements. Sure, cutting the boot perfectly may not be super critical, but I'll leave you to read NEC article 110 on your own.
@@CurrentConnected lol, i was referring to your claim it needed to be sealed. That's not the case at all. It's to protect the wire from chafing. Nothing more.
If you think these terminals are bad, you should not be doing anything with electricity. If you actually read before user manual start to finish it would demonstrate how it is on with European regulations. They are so much more stringent than ones in the United States at least terminals are more than safe, but they are a good idea because inverters can retain a charge after being turned off so there’s very little accidentally touch.
@@caseypries7559 it’s not an opinion. I’m stating the safety regulations. These have been tested to the connectors. Don’t melt with the glowing hot wire in them and they offer a very low resistance. I don’t know what more you want. They are hard to remove the wire from accidentally, which is good in a device with a fan that vibrates .
I believe it’s best practice mostly for mechanical reasons not to exceed the wires suggested bend radius (which I’m certain that would) - I’m not sure if or how much resistance this adds but I would personally prefer a straight run and take the risk of future issues (likely it’s a short run) or make a bigger loop if it were really necessary. That should be a high load conductor so seems worth it to treat it nicely. My logic anyways
Romex in an RV? Not a best practice, even though cheaper than the good stuff. Use ferrules and you don't have to fuss with the screwdriver. This video actually damages your brand.
Using that type of cable is bull crap! Those terminals are for finely stranded wire with crimp ferules such as type MTW. Read what the RED caution label tells you.
Yep. We addressed this in the video...the thing is, RV's (where most of this model inverter get installed) come factory with this THHN/THWN wire and it's often impossible to effectively replace with MTW. As a result, we made a video that shows the best way to do it with options most owners in the USA will have at hand.
I understand what you're saying. The service loops are great idea. However those terminals and that wire just are not really designed for each other. We're talking about the potential for moderate vibration and in my opinion you must use a different type of wire. Here's a great example: m.ua-cam.com/video/OCZC8lLXLpw/v-deo.html
I cringe at that thick stranded wire... and no ferrules? To each his own I guess, but for what these devices cost... spring for better wire, and be gentle on the equipment.
Try installing finer strands, the terminals don't work correctly. Also, please read the manuals, it absolutely does not specify ferrules, ferrules can reduce contact area and cause heat in certain terminal shapes. 6AWG romex is the correct tool for the job here. I know you own some beautiful finely stranded wire for installing battery banks and have your own high quality lug crimpers, but this is AC wiring, not DC.
@@incredibleyoutubehandle , it absolutely does not specify ferrules, ferrules can reduce contact area Why does the STICKER below the connector REFERENCE FERRULE length?
It’s not disappointment they are amazing connections. It’s just people in the United States are not used to European connectors. They are used because they are very high-quality if done properly
This is definitely the best reference for installing these terminals that I've found. And I absolutely believe the 6AWG thick stranded romex you have is the correct wire to use with the terminals, it makes all the difference in my installation to use the correct wires for this AC In/Out. Everything here agrees with the inverter manual. I do push my wires in with the tip of the wire strippers, but that's after wrapping additional stronger padding around the wire so there's no abrasion--I'll try the method you showed instead!
Thank you for posting this... Seriously differentiating yourself as a leading Victron distributor for knowledge like this.
There's an old midnite e-panel building video where they show modifying lineman(?) pliers by sanding down the grit and putting a smooth/curved edge on them, then they use those pliers to make precise bends in thick but stiff wires like this, which inspired me to add temporary padding before trying to use pliers to wrangle wire insulation.
Love the tug test, you are the only guy on youtube suggesting using a longer section of wire in the inverter case, genius makes a much more flexible and less likely to have a poor connection with increased resistance possibly creating heat melting the wire and/or connector. Awesome tips here, you obviously have a lot of experience doing this. Larry
Yes, Dexter is well seasoned in this. He started out working toward becoming a journeyman electrician in commercial/industrial environments prior to branching out into solar. His real world experience is very highly valued!
FYI. The Romex you are using for example is actually 6/3, NOT 6/4. Some viewers might get confused by this.
Agreed. 6/4 has 4 insulated 6 awg wires, where as 6/3 has 3 insulated 6 awg wires plus ground. Both work the same only difference is the insulated ground vs bare which, Victron does not require the PE to be 6 awg or insulated. Just in case anyone wanted clarification.
Thank you "so" much for this video! I was having the hardest time trying to cut them all the same length. You guys rock!
I am very happy with my Multiplus 2. It’s an amazing piece of equipment. Using exposed Romex wire is not recommended because it doesn’t provide the same protection as conduit. Romex is a type of cable which combines several THHN conductors together in a plastic sheath, but is intended to be used inside a concealed wall, such as running a circuit inside the wall of your house for a range or dryer. It is not allowed to be exposed, that's why any exposed wires are always inside a type of conduit, EMT, PVC or flexible conduit. When you use Romex in an exposed location it is unsafe according to the NEC. Most people doing DIY solar should understand this basic rule, and not have any AC wires exposed in their installation. Flexible conduit is the easiest to work with, and all the connectors and fittings are available at a big box store like HD. If you know an electrician, ask for their advice, they are all trained in how to install everything to code.
The area shown is covered by a metal panel when installed. Why are you trying to make the case that they're "exposed wires"? Your post is confusing because it sounds like you own one, did you just forget to put the cover back on or something?
Hi Mark, I am referring to the cable that exits the metal panel, the black plastic covering. In my installation I used 3/4” EMT conduit with 6 AWG wire to the subpanel, because it is in my garage. I worked as a commercial and residential solar electrician and this is standard. Type NM (non-metallic) cable is by itself not protected from physical damage, and is only allowed inside walls. In an RV electrical equipment compartment would be different.
The entire RV is wired in this stuff. Yeah, I wouldn't use it in a high impact area but you have to be smart about shielding things when they need to be. My 4/0 12v wiring isn't in conduit either.
the only thing i dont like about this inverter is the ac connectors but this video was very helpful, good job !
Not the best connectors. However it’s really great you are helping people who are not experts as a lot of off grid people need to learn how to do things properly and be safe. Great content and work guys!
Thanks for the video. I love the Multiplus II, but hate the spring terminals. It took me about two hours to connect the AC wires to the spring terminals. If you use 6/3 Romex, it would probably be easy. But, I used 6/4 SOOW. The wires are not as stiff as romex and are extremely difficult to insert into the spring terminals. Every screw driver I tried (and I have several) would not depress the spring terminals enough to insert the wires enough for the terminals to hold the wire securely. Using needlenose pliers did not work because the wires are too soft to push into the terminals. At the other end of the cables, I installed a spice box with screw terminals that took about 5 minutes to hook up. Another thing of note, connecting the wires on a workbench is probably significantly easier than connecting them in the RV.
Doing this install now and using this video for reference has made it much easier. Other videos tell you to do the exact opposite of this video. I should be done shortly and have collected video allong the way. Thank you for this video.
Glad it helped!
He said...."while its not my preference, most customers are wiring this up with romex. This is a 6/4 romex."
but then he never says what his preference is? What is your preference?
This is 6/3 romex.
Great video!
I wish I would have seen it before I installed mine, in my RV, that definitely looks like a much easier method. I straight cut them to have a shorter length inside. However I did measure the 3/4 strip & put a mark with a sharpy at 1" on the insulation so I knew when they were all shoved home in the connector.
I fought with those wires getting them in...I think I learned a few new words along the way as well...lol
I will be redoing those connections your way, in the spring before we start using our RV again.
I just hope I left myself enough extra to redo it..if not it will be an expensive lesson buying another roll of romex..
Thank you,
Brad
I saw this video the day before I hooked it up and with out the knowledge in your video it would have been extremely difficult to do
But with your advice it was a snap!
Thanks
Dom
EVERY MultiPlus2 owner should WATCH THIS.
I've seen other videos where the CONNECTORS were completely MELTED and the unit was totally USELESS.
Thank you, this was very helpful. I have this exact product arriving in a few days, and have been trying to find instructions like this for how to properly wire up this kind of terminal. Good timing!
It's an awesome inverter, I have the 48V model. These AC terminals were the most difficult part to get right.
If you must ever use pliers to grip something and not dsmage the surface, you could wrap either insulating tape, or what we call "masking tape" (in Australia) around each of the jaws. This still provides a fairly solid grip, and damages the object less. Good video, I'll watch them all.
Excellent video! Explains things perfectly. Thank you!!
Good man, good job done there. However I'm slightly concerned about this kink in case the radius of bending is lower on a lower quality CCA type wires which have flooded the market.
IMO I'd like to put a ferrite ring over there and wrap the cable around it achieving two goals at once:
Stoppage anchor in case of pulling the wires accidently
and
noise filtering which is present in all electronic equipment.
The best Multiplus 2 wireing demonstration yet.
Thanks for this video! Made wiring simple and easy.
Glad it helped!
Thankyou. Doing this install today and wanted to be sure how to do it right
I'm about to wire one of these up and this helps tremendously. Thanks!
Great video! Wondering if it would be a good idea to put ferrules on the end of the wire?
Excellent knowledge your sharing, just happens I will be connecting up one off theses soon, il be sure to follow your lead👌🇦🇺
Why are you concerned about a good seal on that AC wiring when the 12v side is wide open?
It’s best practice to do it that way as if you’re going to put it in doing it neat is good but on the AC side it doesn’t suck Erin and it’s advised to stop it doing that but on the DC cable size it actually sucks through the whole
I think the best solution is to replace the connector blocks with the screw type like in the Victron Quattro 2
Just to make sure I understand. That was if you were wiring in shore power or a generator, correct?
they remind me of the speed wire slots on outlets in homes these can get hot and fail, but its what it is.
These are much better. They are properly rated pushed terminals. They have a large amount of metal inside if you buy some of this exact brand and take them apart.
Great, great video instructions. I am looking to buy a MultiPlus II 3000/120 for my Sprinter and this is very informative. Do you sell them pre-programmed per customer?
Yes, feel free to email us for further details - info@currentconnected.com
6/3 Marine grade with white black and green, that's what you should use, where's the ferrule?
Is a ferrule required?
The installation manual from Victron say not to use ferrules.
You only need ferrules for fine stranded wire
@@GeoffreyParent actually, the MP manual refers to Ferrules
@@phecksel I guess I remembered wrong
Good info to learn before I start. Thank you. For my AC out I am going to a generator hook up point that is not being used. 50 AMP RV. 4 wires in the generator hook up that goes to my AC distribution panel. Red, Black, White, and Green. How would I hook this up to my multiplus II AC out ports?
It’s worth knowing that if you’re asking how to do this, you probably don’t have the technical knowledge or practical skills to do this properly a professional would be highly recommended just because there’s going to be safety things you do not get
There is a reason we don't use that connection on outlets/switches. A lot of mobile homes have burned because of them. My EG4 and SolArk have better connections than those.
Why is a small cross-section wire needed in the cable, what is its function?
If you’re not using high current on the cable, it is generally fine but there are proper calculation methods you use or graphs or potentially tables that help you decide
I dont understand the purpose of the screwdriver jamming it in there for an install? Are these not push in wire connectors? They push in easy but dont pull out without the screwdiver??
The screwdriver opens up the terminal and allows it to be pulled out, but sometimes it can help it pushing
Great! But as a former electrician I would like to se a nice loop of the wires inside instead 🙏☀
Romax isn’t your preference, what would be the ideal water to use. I’m currently rewiring my motorhome to install a multi plus ii inverter
Thank you
I just used your method today and it worked beautifully "except" the green block for L1 on AC Out separated from the rest of what I thought was a solid block. Is this an issue or am I still fine?
You mentioned that it's not your favorite choice of wire? Is that because it's so stiff with fewer larger strands than a more flexible wire? What would you recommend? I assume thinner stranded wire but not ferrules since they would impede the springs ability to spread out the wire and make a good connection?
Solar guys who love fat beautiful finely stranded copper monstrosities for wiring inverters and $$$ battery banks are embarrassed to find themselves next to 6AWG romex even when it's the correct tool for the job. I totally get it. But it's the correct tool for this size of AC wiring, and the terminals depend on stiffness of these large strands to function correctly (this is my belief after operating the terminals with more than one kind of wire).
I have a generator transfer switch. I don't have a generator. My fith wheel has gen prep. I am wondering can I just pull out the transfer switch run 6/4 wire on the incoming shore power side use lug blocks to the inverter? Then from the inverter back to where the transfer switch was lug blocks to the line going to the breaker panel? Or would it just be best to pull all the 6/4 wire out that came on the 5th wheel make a continuous run from the shore power to the inverter inverter continuous run to the breaker panel?
I know that AC 1 Out is used to go to your breaker panel in your RV but what is AC 2 out used for?
AC2 power is not switched by the inverter. So only gives AC when hooked up our have a genset running. No battery power.
what is the smallest wire size you can use on the AC out 1 & 2? I'm only going to run a 20 amp outlet off either of them (for inside hobby battery backup). the outlets will be only about 2ft away from the multiplus unit. I can't see using 6awg wire for an application that won't draw more than 20amps.
The problem is in the United States outlets do not have fuses in the plugs whilst some of the countries day so it has to be rated for the full current of the inverter unless there is anything to strip out like a breaker that’s my recommendation. You should probably do reset, but if there’s a software option to limit the current, I would enable it, it’s just you potentially could come into a situation where an appliance fails and uses a little bit more than it should
you dont use ferrules ?
Not on a push in connector. Too little contact on the blade
@@mikenavy360 actually it depends on the specific push in connector
I wouldn't be pulling hard u can break the circuit board .... Keep it up
Can you install 2 of these units together?
On my multiplus 24/3000 Victron inverter, I only have three connectors, which I wired up with 6/3. The ground I have going separately to its own lightning rod.
I’m wondering if I need to ground to the main panel, as I have two 50 amp breakers for my solar connection. The only ground on the main panel goes to its own in ground rod , i’m figuring that’s part of the electrical companys.
My problem now is that my lights flicker when I’m using a load like the microwave. Is this because of the ground or lack of? 🖖
I don't think you were supposed to add an additional grounding point. On my system, the AC Out ground connects to the main panel ground, which then has a grounding rod.
@@incredibleyoutubehandle
Thanks, this may be the problem. I’ll try disconnecting the other ground on the inverter. Maybe this will fix it. 🖖
@@benjones8977did that fix ur flickering issue? I believe there are different scenario’s in different countries, states, jurisdictions concerning earthing, this maybe something u need to check out further for ur locality.
Do they offer a different method to connect wires???
I hate this spring method.
This is the only reason I hesitate to purchase Victron, and Ivwant to purchase a Victron!!!
Just can’t buy with this connection system!
buy a Victron Quattro - it has bolts on AC sides as well.
I don't like these spring contacts as well (those were bolted in the past...)
These terminals are more than fine. They are made to the very very high European standards and the much higher standards of certain countries inside Europe as well if you use individual conductors inside metal pipe or flexible stuff. I’m not sure exactly what you call it in the United States but that would be very easy to terminate.
It's actually called 6/3 wire...not 6/4....(They don't count the bare ground on the packaging)...just saying....also you should have used ferrules.
SO WHY DOESN’T VICTRON FIX THIS AND PUT BOLT DOWN TERMINALS
I AM A BIG FAN OF VICTRON BUT
I HATE THOSE SPRING CONNECTORS
ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE!!!
I CAN NOT JUSTIFY USING VICTRON ON MY JOBS UNTIL THIS IS CORRECTED!
It’s not a problem only in America where people can’t understand how to use a terminal or even watch the manufacturers video. This is designed with European safety standards in mind and it has to be of a highest standard than the United States requires so it can be approved for Europe.
thanks
COOP
...
One thing that people need to realise if you do not know how to use a terminal correctly personally I’m going to say you don’t have the required experience or knowledge to do this this is a European product designed with European style connectors as well
So dumb that they use spring terminals and not screw down terminals. Much better install than I've seen other people do... but why not use SOOW or SEOOW? Still 600V but much more flexible. Crimp a ferrule on the end of each wire as well.
Most RVs here have existing cable installed that matches the video. While SOOW is best it’s not realistic because replacing the whole shore power wiring is not always practical or cost effective
Spring terminals are not dumb they are built to the European safety standards which are much higher than United States. These units are meant for the European market but imported to America.
When I remove the screwdriver, the wire just pulls out… these spring terminals seem like absolute garbage….
Did you make sure you stripped 3/4" of wire and pushed the wire all the way in?
What type and gauge of wire are you using?
@@HighTechLab 6awg Romex. I eventually got it to work, seems like the screwdriver is pretty fidgety to get it to release the spring properly
These are meant for European types of wire. This is a product straight out of Europe so it’s going to be compatible with that way of doing things.
I love Victron components and I have 2 of these MPs but the fact you have to make a video showing how to use these connectors says it all. They are crap and should have never been used. Also, your thought that the grommet has to be tight to seal is hilarious given the giant slot just to the right of the gromets. Not at all important. You need enough grommet to keep the wire from chafing on the metal and then the wire should be secured tightly as early as possible exciting the housing. Movement of wires is the enemy. And yes, I go straight in with my wire. I make sure they aren't too short to begin with.
We make this video because there are a lot of DIYer's that are not licensed electricians and don't completely know what is required to meet code requirements. Sure, cutting the boot perfectly may not be super critical, but I'll leave you to read NEC article 110 on your own.
@@CurrentConnected lol, i was referring to your claim it needed to be sealed. That's not the case at all. It's to protect the wire from chafing. Nothing more.
If you think these terminals are bad, you should not be doing anything with electricity. If you actually read before user manual start to finish it would demonstrate how it is on with European regulations. They are so much more stringent than ones in the United States at least terminals are more than safe, but they are a good idea because inverters can retain a charge after being turned off so there’s very little accidentally touch.
@@UKsystems sounds like you've got all the answers. These connectors are shit, period. I don't care one bit about your opinion so save it.
@@caseypries7559 it’s not an opinion. I’m stating the safety regulations. These have been tested to the connectors. Don’t melt with the glowing hot wire in them and they offer a very low resistance. I don’t know what more you want. They are hard to remove the wire from accidentally, which is good in a device with a fan that vibrates .
I don’t think making 180 turns that tight is recommended wiring
What do you propose is wrong with it or a better alternative?
I believe it’s best practice mostly for mechanical reasons not to exceed the wires suggested bend radius (which I’m certain that would) - I’m not sure if or how much resistance this adds but I would personally prefer a straight run and take the risk of future issues (likely it’s a short run) or make a bigger loop if it were really necessary. That should be a high load conductor so seems worth it to treat it nicely. My logic anyways
Romex in an RV? Not a best practice, even though cheaper than the good stuff. Use ferrules and you don't have to fuss with the screwdriver. This video actually damages your brand.
mrbeast
Using that type of cable is bull crap! Those terminals are for finely stranded wire with crimp ferules such as type MTW. Read what the RED caution label tells you.
Yep. We addressed this in the video...the thing is, RV's (where most of this model inverter get installed) come factory with this THHN/THWN wire and it's often impossible to effectively replace with MTW. As a result, we made a video that shows the best way to do it with options most owners in the USA will have at hand.
I understand what you're saying. The service loops are great idea. However those terminals and that wire just are not really designed for each other. We're talking about the potential for moderate vibration and in my opinion you must use a different type of wire.
Here's a great example: m.ua-cam.com/video/OCZC8lLXLpw/v-deo.html
I cringe at that thick stranded wire... and no ferrules? To each his own I guess, but for what these devices cost... spring for better wire, and be gentle on the equipment.
Try installing finer strands, the terminals don't work correctly. Also, please read the manuals, it absolutely does not specify ferrules, ferrules can reduce contact area and cause heat in certain terminal shapes.
6AWG romex is the correct tool for the job here. I know you own some beautiful finely stranded wire for installing battery banks and have your own high quality lug crimpers, but this is AC wiring, not DC.
@@incredibleyoutubehandle , it absolutely does not specify ferrules, ferrules can reduce contact area
Why does the STICKER below the connector REFERENCE FERRULE length?
@@incredibleyoutubehandle It does reference ferrules in the MP manual
Ferrules can be required and can also make issues with these terminals. It’s always best to check.
Why did victron go with such a stupid design? Thank you for the video! What a disappointment victron.
It’s not disappointment they are amazing connections. It’s just people in the United States are not used to European connectors. They are used because they are very high-quality if done properly
I think this might be a older version model or the GX model changed. It has a screw terminal now. Not sure If I have to use ferulle's with it though.
That depends on conduct class and a lot of other things that you should know if you have had formal training