I have been mowing my yard for 2yrs with little to no brakes, if I had not seen your video, I wouldn't even had attempted to repair them, you made it seem easy, and it was.
Great job! The mower manufacturers never explain how to set those brakes in the owners manual, and they aren't intuitive. You know that because it took you three hours to figure it out. And the stupid brakes start to go out of adjustment after one season if you have a yard with a hill. This video was just what I needed.
Even though you have the problem with the music at the beginning (thanks for stopping it in the critical part of the video), you did a great job of showing & explaining how to work on the brake system. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was very helpful.
Thank You for taking your time to share this repair skill everyone of these riding mowers require. Your description identifying the part, application, & unique characteristics are super helpful for us who could not figure it all out. THANK YOU 🙏
Thank you so much for posting this!!! I've been dealing with poor breaking for over a year, thanks to you a half turn on the adjustment bolt and it brakes like new!!
You actually did a pretty good job with that. I lost my brakes today and couldn't for the life of me understand why. I never had problems slowing down or stopping. I just simply let my wife drive it for 15 little ol' minutes and WAHLA ! brakes are gone. I jacked the tractor up and I can actually see the pad coming out and the brake assembly has play in it. I'll tackle it on the weekend,but very good!
Nice video and presentation. I watched it once and was able to do the project start to finish in a couple hours. The pins were rusted in solid. Had to heat the block to loosen. It was so corroded that the brakes did not engage so the pad was not worn. The brakes worked perfectly the first time.
Dude, your video is PERFECT!!! Now my Craftsman stops as well as it goes! I do need new pads though, they were WORN. I had to take them to the bench grinder to round off the edges.
Excellent brake down, I am not familiar yet with my used mowers braking system, now I understand how they work and where the brakes are located . My recent mower purchase leaves me replacing more parts than I expected. It starts and stays running... so I am on my way.. thanks for the informative video.
Your video was helpful in locating the brake assembly on my mower. It is actually quite simple in the way that it works, all mechanical, no hydraulics involved. I would like to add however, that simply turning the pads over does not address the problem of failing brakes. If the brakes need adjustment then it's time for new brake pads. If you want to squeeze a bit more life out of the old ones you could fabricate a shim to fit into the housing beneath the existing pads, effectively giving them added thickness.
thanks so much for making this video.... finally got mine running smooth, but the brakes are horrible. now I can fix that and sell the thing with no issues! thanks again
Great job on the video, just because you dont know the correct terms didnt stop you from making a great video. You have helped me tremedously and I have been a diesel tech for 20 years.........I also liked the way you manipulated the allthread,,,,,that inginuity at it best.
Thanks, found my really old Craftsman with the brake rod bent over and dangling, and couldn't figure out how those two bolts were supposed to work (no spring in my vocabulary, of course, as it fell off years ago!). Old indestructible will have brakes again!
That key that goes between the disc and the shaft...looks like you put it in with the curved side facing down (into the groove of the shaft) and the disc slips over the straight part?
EXCELLENT!! Haven't pulled it down yet, but my brakes have a hair trigger - I either "hit or miss" coast or nearly get thrown off the mower. Appreciate the full breakdown - suspect gunk in there - glad pads/rotor have easy access. And music's okay, but glad it stops after the intro so I can concentrate on the instruction.
How to make the pads last longer. A hose clamp is the right width. Just needs to be cut to length. You can use them as shims to push the pad closer to the Brake Rotor. Just sand the pads smooth where the rotor cut its grove. Place your shims behind the pads. Lot cheaper than $16+ for 2 new pads
I’m be got a 2006 Craftsman gt5000 & cant get it to roll. A redid the brakes but nothing was wrong with them. Can help because everything moves freely? Jacked up the rear wheels go in opposite directions.
Nicely Done video! Exactly what I needed to solve a non return brake pedal. Former owner had calipher arm spring incorrectly installed. Very difficult to see on parts diagrams I have available. Thank you.
I know thia is old, and you probably don't have the mower anymore, but on the off chance you do, where does the brake rod connect up front? Couldn't see clearly on this. Just bought one and the brake rod isn't attached.
thanks for the great video. my lawnmower drive belt keeps slipping off when I push the break all the way down.. do you have any idea what can cause that?
Hello, I have a roper lawn mower fairly old on now. I believe by looking at this video that the braking system works the same. Now I have found that I either have problems with my brakes or with my clutch now I’m not sure how to work around these I was wondering if you could make a video to help troubleshoot why my gears will not cut out due to problems with cloth idler pulley. Or if anyone sees this and understands what I mean please message me. Would really appreciate the kind help.
Very helpful. After dealing with a sheared bolt (recommend going easy and penetrating lube if you remove the assembly), we installed new 1/4x20 bolts. Differing lengths - 2” and 2.5” as I recall. Also the brake disc can be pried off and the rear brake pad checked/turned over.
the brake on this craftsman isn't 100% identical to the one on our Husqvarna LT151, but the basic design is the same. The bolts securing the brake caliper to the transaxle were verry tight, was worried about breaking the bolts, talked a bit with a mechanically inclined janitor close to where I work, and he advised me to use penetrating oil and heat the bolts, so I bought a smal butane burner and heated the bolts for about a minute and as he advised used a hammer to smack the bolts a few times.. repeated the process until the bolts started to turn, and here is an important advice I got.. when I got the bolts started to turn, instead of attempting to unscrew the bolts straight away I turned the bolts back and forth quite a bit before I finally unscrewed the bolts, this together with the application of heat and the smacking of the bolts would break the bond that had most likely formed between the bolt and the treads (that sort of welds the bolts and treads together) and avoid either breaking the bolts or stripping the treads.
The spring around the threaded rod is to adjust foot pressure tension. The greer nut is to adjust the position of puck engaging the brake disc. Tighten down the greer nut will cause the brake to engage without foot pressure.
I have to say good vid. However, I can't stand when a vid is made and parts replaced and no info #. That said, what is the part # for what all you did replace ( spring etc )?
My Craftsman lawn tractor in about 11 years old and I needed to replace the brake pucks. If you check the sears website they don't make that pad anymore. If you go to MTD products website they have some pucks that are a little shorter but they will fit. The problem is they are not as thick as the originals pads. If you make a spacer like the one on the outside pad, and put it behind the inside pad it it will make it thick enough to work. This is typical Sears, I guess think that you can just drag you feet to stop.
My 1994 GT 6000 is 21 years old,which I bought brand new.Two weeks ago I ordered new pucks which Sears said are still in stock on Sears Parts Direct,well that ain't true I found out.Sears took my my $16.72 cents and now they don't what happened.The brakes went out 2 years after I bought the tractor,and not from abuse.I had to call them,they didnt let me know anything.I looked on Jacks Small Engine,they claim they have them,we'll see.
My problem is that my break has play in it when I let off. I don't get enough acceleration. I can pull the brake back with my foot and there's about 2 inches of play that allow it to speed up. This also seems to effect my brake lock lever. Can someone help me get play out of this pedal so can get full acceleration?
funny how he didn't show the removal of the rotor, which is nearly impossible- 90 percent of these mowers will have a seized rotor that won't slide off. Soak it in pb blaster and then use a 2 jaw narrow clearance puller to remove, there's very little room and a standard puller won't work. Don't use a prybar or you'll crack the trans case and warp the rotor. Oh and one of the two bolts that holds the caliper broke off flush too (oh joy!) on mine, had to use a self tapping screw to replace it.
OK, so i did all this stuff in the video. Brakes seem to lock up that little rotor good but it doesnt stop the tractor. The wheels still turn freely. Any suggestions?
No, It actually works now. What I think it was is I had the tractor on blocks so both back wheels are off the ground. With the brakes on the wheels just spin. Put it on the ground and they work fine. Must have to do with how the trans axle works. Thanks for the vid.
Good to hear! Yeah the way the trans axle works is basically its a transmission and a differential all in one. the differential on a tractor is open allowing both rear wheels to spin at different speeds (so when you're taking a left or right turn the rear wheels won't dig up your lawn). Same thing happens on a car, if the car is in park (lets say our car is front wheel drive) and you have both front wheels off the ground, you can spin one wheel forward and the other one will spin backward (if it has an open differential) but with both wheels on the ground one wheel can't be going forward while the other one is trying to go backward so in that case the car wont move and "Park" does exactly what its supposed to do. Its hard to explain exactly how a differential works but I suggest if your interested, to look it up on UA-cam. Its pretty neat stuff.
Good video. Next time turn you "Crescent wrench around. You don't torque the moveable jaw. Otherwise you helped anyone not familiar with Dana riding mower transaxles.
I have been mowing my yard for 2yrs with little to no brakes, if I had not seen your video, I wouldn't even had attempted to repair them, you made it seem easy, and it was.
Great job! The mower manufacturers never explain how to set those brakes in the owners manual, and they aren't intuitive. You know that because it took you three hours to figure it out. And the stupid brakes start to go out of adjustment after one season if you have a yard with a hill. This video was just what I needed.
Awesome work on this video bro, I lost the brakes on my mower long ago and could never find any relevant information, now all sorted thanks to you!!
Even though you have the problem with the music at the beginning (thanks for stopping it in the critical part of the video), you did a great job of showing & explaining how to work on the brake system. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was very helpful.
I really appreciated this. I thought it was probably a simple disc setup, but hadn't bothered to look. You did a good job of explaining it, I thought.
Thank You for taking your time to share this repair skill everyone of these riding mowers require. Your description identifying the part, application, & unique characteristics are super helpful for us who could not figure it all out. THANK YOU 🙏
Thank you so much for posting this!!! I've been dealing with poor breaking for over a year, thanks to you a half turn on the adjustment bolt and it brakes like new!!
You actually did a pretty good job with that. I lost my brakes today and couldn't for the life of me understand why. I never had problems slowing down or stopping. I just simply let my wife drive it for 15 little ol' minutes and WAHLA ! brakes are gone. I jacked the tractor up and I can actually see the pad coming out and the brake assembly has play in it. I'll tackle it on the weekend,but very good!
Out all the UA-cam videos I watched ion craftsman brakes this has been the most informative!
Nice video and presentation. I watched it once and was able to do the project start to finish in a couple hours. The pins were rusted in solid. Had to heat the block to loosen. It was so corroded that the brakes did not engage so the pad was not worn. The brakes worked perfectly the first time.
Dude, your video is PERFECT!!! Now my Craftsman stops as well as it goes! I do need new pads though, they were WORN. I had to take them to the bench grinder to round off the edges.
Excellent brake down, I am not familiar yet with my used mowers braking system, now I understand how they work and where the brakes are located . My recent mower purchase leaves me replacing more parts than I expected. It starts and stays running... so I am on my way.. thanks for the informative video.
Your video was helpful in locating the brake assembly on my mower. It is actually quite simple in the way that it works, all mechanical, no hydraulics involved. I would like to add however, that simply turning the pads over does not address the problem of failing brakes. If the brakes need adjustment then it's time for new brake pads. If you want to squeeze a bit more life out of the old ones you could fabricate a shim to fit into the housing beneath the existing pads, effectively giving them added thickness.
Definitely not true.
Great video... Simple...easy to understand...covers everything.
Sweet! Thank you! Could not tell from the Sears site how to setup the brakes on my mower. Ive not had brakes in years :)
Great video!!!!! I just did my brake today and it worked fine, thanks for posting your video!
thanks so much for making this video.... finally got mine running smooth, but the brakes are horrible. now I can fix that and sell the thing with no issues! thanks again
Great job on the video, just because you dont know the correct terms didnt stop you from making a great video. You have helped me tremedously and I have been a diesel tech for 20 years.........I also liked the way you manipulated the allthread,,,,,that inginuity at it best.
M.jm Google I need some UA-cam videos on how to put brakes on a fix the brakes on my Craftsman mower so 24
Great video, I had to apply heat and Kroil spray to remove the bolts that hold in my brake bracket system.
I am missing the metal piece that goes in between the pistons and the brake pad. I wonder if that would cause the brakes not to work?
Thanks, found my really old Craftsman with the brake rod bent over and dangling, and couldn't figure out how those two bolts were supposed to work (no spring in my vocabulary, of course, as it fell off years ago!). Old indestructible will have brakes again!
That key that goes between the disc and the shaft...looks like you put it in with the curved side facing down (into the groove of the shaft) and the disc slips over the straight part?
EXCELLENT!! Haven't pulled it down yet, but my brakes have a hair trigger - I either "hit or miss" coast or nearly get thrown off the mower. Appreciate the full breakdown - suspect gunk in there - glad pads/rotor have easy access.
And music's okay, but glad it stops after the intro so I can concentrate on the instruction.
Very clear in how it was presented I learned a lesson thank you Gabriel
How to make the pads last longer. A hose clamp is the right width. Just needs to be cut to length. You can use them as shims to push the pad closer to the Brake Rotor. Just sand the pads smooth where the rotor cut its grove. Place your shims behind the pads. Lot cheaper than $16+ for 2 new pads
I’m be got a 2006 Craftsman gt5000 & cant get it to roll. A redid the brakes but nothing was wrong with them. Can help because everything moves freely? Jacked up the rear wheels go in opposite directions.
Thanks for the video help! It really helped me out a lot! I now have brakes again! :) Keep up the great job!
What size is that crescent wrench 😂
The information I needed in a concise format, two thumbs up
I need to replace the rod. Any details on that ? Thanks
I've been searching hours for this video. Thanks
When a video is done this well, you could watch it muted and understand. Great job!
Great video! Gives me all the info I need to replace my brake pads on my Craftsman mower.
How do I adjust my parking brake lever so that it stays locked in park and not slip out or hold in the park position??On a Craftsman LT 1500?
The five and six speeds and hydrostatic the same or close to the same as far as the brakes amd the parts?
How do you check the transaxle oil?
Nicely Done video! Exactly what I needed to solve a non return brake pedal. Former owner had calipher arm spring incorrectly installed. Very difficult to see on parts diagrams I have available. Thank you.
I know thia is old, and you probably don't have the mower anymore, but on the off chance you do, where does the brake rod connect up front? Couldn't see clearly on this. Just bought one and the brake rod isn't attached.
Dude, this is how to make a blurry viv. U got it perfect!
You've made it seem simple. Thanks for the details!
followed instructions and fixed my brakes. Thank you
Thank you you are a big help to me I appreciate everything Michelangelo
how do you adjust brakes on 30 inch16.5 ridding mower sears has 2 bolts but no center bolt to tighten like other mowers has a bolt on top
so parts they do not make any more ? parts you got at home depot where 2 springs a threaded rod ,and 3 nuts .
thanks for the great video. my lawnmower drive belt keeps slipping off when I push the break all the way down.. do you have any idea what can cause that?
bent or missing belt retainers.
To big of a belt possibly
Thanks a lot,been w/o brakes for long time
Good job, I'm adjusting Troybilt this afternoon.
hey I was just wondering what was the part# for the spring
Hello, I have a roper lawn mower fairly old on now. I believe by looking at this video that the braking system works the same. Now I have found that I either have problems with my brakes or with my clutch now I’m not sure how to work around these I was wondering if you could make a video to help troubleshoot why my gears will not cut out due to problems with cloth idler pulley. Or if anyone sees this and understands what I mean please message me. Would really appreciate the kind help.
front pully ,what is the size , say 3/4 by 6 inch long or is it 5/8 x 6 thanks for a reply
I press my brake and it wants to go forward with the shifter in gear
Very helpful. After dealing with a sheared bolt (recommend going easy and penetrating lube if you remove the assembly), we installed new 1/4x20 bolts. Differing lengths - 2” and 2.5” as I recall. Also the brake disc can be pried off and the rear brake pad checked/turned over.
the brake on this craftsman isn't 100% identical to the one on our Husqvarna LT151, but the basic design is the same. The bolts securing the brake caliper to the transaxle were verry tight, was worried about breaking the bolts, talked a bit with a mechanically inclined janitor close to where I work, and he advised me to use penetrating oil and heat the bolts, so I bought a smal butane burner and heated the bolts for about a minute and as he advised used a hammer to smack the bolts a few times.. repeated the process until the bolts started to turn, and here is an important advice I got.. when I got the bolts started to turn, instead of attempting to unscrew the bolts straight away I turned the bolts back and forth quite a bit before I finally unscrewed the bolts, this together with the application of heat and the smacking of the bolts would break the bond that had most likely formed between the bolt and the treads (that sort of welds the bolts and treads together) and avoid either breaking the bolts or stripping the treads.
Thats fine, but I cant find pads. Not even thru sears. They sent me pads that are shorter and much thinner
The spring around the threaded rod is to adjust foot pressure tension. The greer nut is to adjust the position of puck engaging the brake disc. Tighten down the greer nut will cause the brake to engage without foot pressure.
nice! this is exactly what I needed to see
I have to say good vid. However, I can't stand when a vid is made and parts replaced and no info #. That said, what is the part # for what all you did replace ( spring etc )?
is this about the same brake system as a dynamark rider?
I have an old one it has zero brakes.
Need to set your camera up stationary. Got dizzy trying to keep up with all the movement
Super, I should have a tractor with brakes tomorrow.
1/4 drive socket works great for that rear bolt
My Craftsman lawn tractor in about 11 years old and I needed to replace the brake pucks. If you check the sears website they don't make that pad anymore. If you go to MTD products website they have some pucks that are a little shorter but they will fit. The problem is they are not as thick as the originals pads. If you make a spacer like the one on the outside pad, and put it behind the inside pad it it will make it thick enough to work. This is typical Sears, I guess think that you can just drag you feet to stop.
My 1994 GT 6000 is 21 years old,which I bought brand new.Two weeks ago I ordered new pucks which Sears said are still in stock on Sears Parts Direct,well that ain't true I found out.Sears took my my $16.72 cents and now they don't what happened.The brakes went out 2 years after I bought the tractor,and not from abuse.I had to call them,they didnt let me know anything.I looked on Jacks Small Engine,they claim they have them,we'll see.
My problem is that my break has play in it when I let off. I don't get enough acceleration. I can pull the brake back with my foot and there's about 2 inches of play that allow it to speed up. This also seems to effect my brake lock lever. Can someone help me get play out of this pedal so can get full acceleration?
That's probably a problem with the break retraction spring.
Nice job on the video...very helpful!
Hey thank you gives me the chance to see one before I got to tear into it. Just a recommendation stop using the adjustable wrench
Appreciate your time - learned a few tips - cheers Matthew
Break is holding but won't stop mower
God I love youtube :) I have the same tractor and im missing some parts and couldn't find any information as usual much appreciated man
now I know what to look for thank you nice and clear vidio
Gr8 video,well done and information
Good job doing this repair while laying down on your side and holding the camera with one hand.
Work on a hard surface or put down a tarp so you don't lose parts in the grass
great vid but original brakes dont need anything but oil and some hammering
Where did you purchase the springs?
where to buy spring and what size thanks ??
Great video, thanks!
Great job on the video
Thank you for posting this!
como es el embrague centrífugo ?????
Nice job buddy
That's. Worked like a charm
great video
funny how he didn't show the removal of the rotor, which is nearly impossible- 90 percent of these mowers will have a seized rotor that won't slide off. Soak it in pb blaster and then use a 2 jaw narrow clearance puller to remove, there's very little room and a standard puller won't work. Don't use a prybar or you'll crack the trans case and warp the rotor. Oh and one of the two bolts that holds the caliper broke off flush too (oh joy!) on mine, had to use a self tapping screw to replace it.
Use Kano AeroKroil.
Has been around since 1939.
WHAT IS THE INTRO MUSIC CALLED!!!!!!!!!?????????????
009 sound system
Thank you so much ❤️
Thank-you for doing this video!!! I can't thank-you enough!
Thanks. Good job.
OK, so i did all this stuff in the video. Brakes seem to lock up that little rotor good but it doesnt stop the tractor. The wheels still turn freely.
Any suggestions?
holdengr is your key broken?
No, It actually works now. What I think it was is I had the tractor on blocks so both back wheels are off the ground. With the brakes on the wheels just spin. Put it on the ground and they work fine. Must have to do with how the trans axle works.
Thanks for the vid.
Good to hear! Yeah the way the trans axle works is basically its a transmission and a differential all in one. the differential on a tractor is open allowing both rear wheels to spin at different speeds (so when you're taking a left or right turn the rear wheels won't dig up your lawn). Same thing happens on a car, if the car is in park (lets say our car is front wheel drive) and you have both front wheels off the ground, you can spin one wheel forward and the other one will spin backward (if it has an open differential) but with both wheels on the ground one wheel can't be going forward while the other one is trying to go backward so in that case the car wont move and "Park" does exactly what its supposed to do. Its hard to explain exactly how a differential works but I suggest if your interested, to look it up on UA-cam. Its pretty neat stuff.
I forgot t mention, if you use the parking brake on a car that will activate both rear brake pads and prevent both wheels from spinning
I completely disconnected my brakes from the clutch and connected a bicycle handbrake, mounted on the shifter. Got the idea from FearlessFront.
DUDE BUY A SOCKET SET,MAKES THINGS A LOT SIMPLER
DUDE! You are the mark of the devil. Don't tell others what to do.
Definitely don't recommend working in the grass, as you may lose parts...
I agree never work on dirt or grass 😊
What's the purpose of the background music? It would be a lot easier to hear you without the music...
thank god you stopped the music. Thanks for the video
Very informative video. Thanks.
Thanks man.......Nice Video!
great video. thanks
Was this filmed with an American or Canadian potato?
Good video. Next time turn you "Crescent wrench around. You don't torque the moveable jaw. Otherwise you helped anyone not familiar with Dana riding mower transaxles.
Good job!!!
Good video... the music at the beginning was very distracting... couldn't hear what was being said...
great info. thanks
thanks