I have taken up amateur camera repair as a result of watching your videos. I've already repaired the shutter and rangefinder mechanism on my Aires IIIC, and now I'm going to try my hand at a Yashica Mat EM and Yashica D TLR. I really don't think I would be nearly as confident as I am without your videos, they have really been a boon for me. And what's more, I am even more enthusiastic about my photography as a result of this, so I really want to thank you for all of the work you post to UA-cam. I am very grateful.
I bought a Yashiflex, had no idea of its' condition. Turned out to be just slightly dusty, and with your help I managed to get it into near mint condition. Thank you!
I broke my Yashica 635 by accidentally setting the self timer. It was new to me and I was fumbling around with it. I did a self-timerecomy and replaced the leather from a ebay kit. Cleaned the lenses and replaced, upgraded, the mirror and ground glass. It works great now. I love that camera.
Thanks again for this video! I just finished tuning up (cleaning) my new Yashica-A I purchased at eBay and it was stored away for a few decades. I even found a roll of Kodak Verichrome Pan that somebody shot and left inside the camera for it least 40+ years. Verichrome was discontinued in 1956. Following you now.
I serviced my newly acquired Yashica A, while watching this video! Thanks for the upload.
3 роки тому
Wow, what a coincidence! I just bought a Yashica A and my taking lens is FULL of fungus! I still cannot find how to look for the RUBBER INSTRUMENT he uses to unscrew the lens, here in Brazil. Any suggestions? Thank you!
@ Buy a cheap walking cane and take the Bottom Rubber stopper off and use that. I did and it works just the same. You will also need a Spanner Tool to remove the rear elements if needed... Both you can buy on eBay. As a matter of fact instead of buying the whole cane, eBay or Amazon may just sell the bottom rubber stopper for canes. By the way I just got a Yashica A off eBay for $22 a few days ago.. Its a mess, but not for long, I will restore it back to good working condition.
VERY helpful video. Excellent step by step instruction, followed it all and got my Yashica C cleaned, functioning and ready to try my first roll of film with it.
I can't believe it is a good idea to drop some lighter fluid into the opening of the timer release and not expect this to get into places you don't want it. Also I was suprised to see the recommendation of applying metal polish to a fragile silver coated mirror is a good idea?
I just bought a Yashicaflex A-II from Japan, the mirror was sitting crookedly as well as being moldy/spotty/scratched. In the video he addresses the method as being anything but recommended, saying that you need to be careful and also that you're polishing the silver coating off of the mirror. In any case - a new/replacement mirror is about 7 dollars. I was looking for one of those, but if metal polish can save me that amount (which would be half of what I paid for the camera itself) then great. If not, 7 bucks it is... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Fear not! He is polishing the glass. The silver coating is on the back of the mirror! The only word of caution would be that prolonged use of polishing glass using anything other than an optical flat surface may alter the curvature of the glass. However for a minute or two of rubbing the effect will be negligible.
@@northernpicturepoetry he is *not* polishing glass, he's polishing the silver. Camera mirrors, be them TLRs or SLRs, are front surface mirrors (meaning the silver coating is on the front surface, not the back surface like the mirror in your bathroom). Depending on make and year, that coating is as good as gone if you so much as touch it - don't ask me how I know. I can't put into words the anxiety that polishing gave me lol.
Great video! I wish I knew this this procedure about a year ago when I found a Yashica Mat in perfect cond. except shutter was stuck. I should have bought it, but didn't.
Your specialized tool looks like the rubber bottom of a walking cane... That's what mine is and it works with no problem.. But I also have a Spanner tool as well. When cleaning the lens elements you should hold them up to a light and you can see if there is any marks on them. Same with the rear element. Without removing the rear element, you can open the back of the camera, open the shutter with bulb mode and look through the back well holding it up to a light. You would be surprised what you can see, that you cant see looking at the lens from the front. Same with a bigger camera lens, hold it up to a bright light and look through the back and you can see everything haze,dust, cleaning marks, scratches....ect...
Thank you for this video - helped me clean a very dirty focusing screen on my RIcohflex New Dia. Say what you want about the 4 screws... The focusing screen clips were my nemesis. Thanks as well for all the other videos as well, very informative. Hopefully I'll be buying a camera from you soon. Cheers.
Thank you for this video! It fills me with renewed hope that I may, in fact, be able to resuscitate my grandfather's Yashica LM. Unfortunately (among other things) the tops of the screws that would hold the focusing hood in place have been completely sheared off! I'm not even sure how that's possible. Any advice on how to remove the portion of the screws still in the holes?
@Japan Vintage Camera This video has been incredibly helpful and I thank you for the time to make it and show all of us how to repair these beautiful vintage TLR cameras. I just picked up a broken Walz WALZFLEX TLR from a local resale shop in Sapporo that the aperture switch is jammed around the F5.6 area. Looks like the blades are jammed on the inside of the lens. Any ideas of how to fix it? I believe it has the Copal X shutter at highest 1/300s.
I totally enjoyed your presentation. I am hooked, I have a question, how do you clean the back glass of the taking lens, not the viewing lens. Great video, Thanks
Just a heads up, went to clean the mirror in my Rolleicord model 2 with water and a q-tip and the silvering came off like nothing, no way could you try to polish it. Found replacements on eBay. Made the view through the ground glass much better.
Awesome video cheers I have an Airesflex model u in full working order it has however got some haze which makes it a bit iffy to nail focus so now I’ll try a clean up thanks 👌
I might buy one this weekend. Found a 124 for $200 USD, has some mold on the lens, but this video makes me confident in cleaning it. Sad part is the battery compartment is corroded but I’m reading that lithium battery won’t work so that doesn’t justify me haggling the price down.
my suggestion for re attaching a hood. cross hatch it.. start in the lower left or right and fasten that screw then the next one goes to the upper right. just like framing a house i had a yashica for almost 5 years. learned not nearly enough from it. but re attaching a hood oh boy was that frustrating . know whats more. stripped screws, and stripped out holes, those are the ones with the fondest of memories.
This was a superb video in that have managed to resurrect a camera I assumed was going to be a costly repair. But take heed, getting the viewfinder hood screws back in will break your heart.
The trick is to only screw them in a littel until all of them are started, this allows you to move the hood around a little to line up the screw holes a little better.
Hello. Not sure what your name is, but thank you for your wonderful story in the comments section of the short documentary film about Japanese people living in the cyber cafes. It was very heart-warming and inspiring. Please visit Poland antytime, it's a beautiful place. Best wishes, stay safe & healthy.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I own and routinely photograph with my Yashicaflex TLRs. I recently acquired a Walzflex with a focus that seems really gummed up, I have to work it gently but firmly to return it to infinity in the dial. Where would you recommend I add some solvent to unstick it? Or is there a larger issue? Thanks a bunch!
Hi there. Your video looks very helpful but the switch on the base of the front panel switches between M (for Magnesium, bulbs) and X (for Xenon flash-guns), it does not switch between manual speeds and a single flash sync speed. On a TLR with a leaf shutter, ALL speeds are flash synchronised, that is why wedding photographers used them for years, daylight flash sync at any speed - ideal!
Thank you! Just a request, a few times the field of interest goes out of the frame so its hard to see where you're dropping the liquid, cleaning or moving the parts. It comes back in view, but it would be easier if you could first bring things inside the frame and then do the action, so we dont miss anything. Thanks
Great video, my yashica As shutter button doesn't seem to work or the shutters themself, there is no that clicking sound as they open n shut. How do I fix that. What cleaning liquid is that
Thank you for this detailed video. I have a Kinoflex (a Taogodo TLR for the Dutch market, which is very similar to the Beautyflex you showed on your channel.) It has the problem you mentioned here, but did not need to address: the front does not come out evenly when focusing closer. Due to some friction, I figure, it swings to the right a bit. The angle can be easily controlled by moving the lens front with my fingers. How would you fix that, please?
I resurrected most of my Yashica Mat 124G with this very educational tutorial. I need help on replacing the camera’s light seal on the back cover and meter housing. I replaced the light seals on my RB67 film backs and hope this isn’t as difficult?
I have a Yashica MAT 124 that has a fresnel under the ground glass. You said these are delicate and easy to scratch. How do you recommend cleaning the fresnel? Lens cleaning fluid and finger like the ground glass? My ground glass and fresnel have lots of dust and dirt that needs cleaned off. Thanks!
Thank you for the informative video! I have a particularly dirty mirror. Is there a brand or type of metal polish that you recommend for cleaning the mirror? I don't want to damage it...
Gracias por el video J.V.C. Hace poco compré una Halma Flex I y la estoy poniendo a punto gracias a tus consejos. Me falta ver el tema del obturador que no funciona en todas sus velocidades. ¡¡Saludos desde Argentina!!
I just squired a Yashica-mat EM and wish to clean it. Where can I find the tool to remove the lens or what is it called so I can search for one. Thank you for your video, I’m sure it will serve to be quite helpful.
Hi thank you so much for the informative video. I've picked up a Olympus flex A 3.5, and have been able to clean the front lens elements successfully. However I can't remove the entire lens assembly to get at the front of the back lens (which has some minor haze on it). When I open the camera, there appear to be divots to unscrew the lens housing but I haven't been able to do that. Do you have any recommendations for cleaning the back lenses in this camera?
Thanks for the video. I have recently acquired a Yashica Mat 124, with a 124G viewing hood. I have a problem with the film counter and advancing the film. When I reach frame 8 or 9 and advance to the next frame it will jump to frame 12, the wind lever turns but it seems like only a half of a revolution, so I am losing frames. I had it apart to check the rewind lever mechanism and applied lightly a couple drops of oil at the pivot points but it did not help. I have so far only tried 3 rolls of film and have not had them developed yet so I don't know the condition of the photos~~~any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
The counter is a ring with slots, and an interrupter lever is supposed to catch the ring at each slot. Either the slots are deformed, or the ring is not clocked with the numbers. These are usually the most troublesome things to attempt to repair on TLR cameras. I can't recommend a particular way to fix it as the problem could be caused by a few different things.
Probably need to send it to Mark Hama (markhama.com). Will cost about $185 (last I checked) but you will get back a completely CLA'd camera and a warranty.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thanks for the reply~when I have a little more time I may try to find an exploded view of the area you mentioned to see what might be involved to do a little troubleshooting~~thanks for the info and great videos~
@@softdorothy ~Ah this is the person that will bring my Yashica back to life~~I will send a note to see what might be involved~~thanks for your input and suggestion~~^^
yashica mat 124g,light meter glass missing,do you know where i can purchase a replacement,and how easy is it to instale,thank you and please keep making youre videos.
Can I clean the mirror in my new Koniflex II camera in the same way? What flathead screw driver do I need to buy for those tiny screws that hold the finder on? Many thanks Tom
The finder glass is more complicated on a Mamiya 220. There are 5 screws which hold on the glass, you must remove these, and do it carefully because there are spacers underneath the focusing screen panel. Make sure to work on a towel or similar, and not close to the edge of the table. Under the panel where the 3 screws are you should see some paper spacers. On the bottom, where the two screws are, there are usually washers on either side. Make sure these washers don't get lost, and make sure to put them back on the same sides they came from. The 220 has a focusing glass and a plastic fresnel underneath. These are held on by two clips each of which are held by two screws. You can remove one of the clips, then slid the fresnel and screen to one side to remove them. Keep an eye on which side the focusing scale on the class is marked, you need to put it back the same way. Clean the glass as I did in the video. The plastic fresnel requires more care, you can clean the bottom (smooth side) the same way as you clean the glass, but be gentle as the plastic is easily scratched. The other side of the fresnel should be cleaned only with a cotton swab and lens fluid, moving the swab in a circular motion. It's a good idea to take photos during the process so you remember what part goes where. When putting the screen and fresnel back in the panel, you can pry up on the clip you didn't remove so they slip under and are held in place.
Hi!! i have a question! I have a rolleicord iv and the lens have some fungus at the front elements....i think you said that but i am not sure, the front elements group can separate in order to clean it between the elements??Thanks a lot! Very nice video!!
Just cleaned a YASHICA MAT-124 that a I just got. Internal lens is a bit stained and I can’t get it cleaned perfectly. I wish I could send you an image. I wonder if it will affect the images. I guess I’ll just have burn a roll to find out. There were lots of fungus in the mirror. I cleaned with just with the cleaning fluid and I wasn’t enough. Once I get the metal polish I’ll try again. Though It Still has nice reflection trough the finder.
You can also try to polish off the haze with metal polish, I find this often works to remove the worst of the haze. There are lens polishing compounds like cerium oxide, but this is a little harder to find, and doesn't work much better than ordinary metal polish. When using polish, be sure that you are using pure cotton swabs, make sure the swabs are wetted with lens cleaning fluid, and that you change the swabs frequently, this prevents coating particles or dust from leaving scratches on the glass or the mirror.
Hi - my opening knob on the yashicamat 124G is really tough and I have to use a towel but most of the times end up injuring my fingers. I can't see a way to take it off, any tips?
Thank you so much. How do you resolve an extremely stiff to move counter window lever please? It's the one part of your video the wasn't covered? Thanks in advance.
You can loosen up the counter by removing the winding knob cover, the screw underneath, and then the knob. Under that will be three screws which hold on the winding shaft and clutch. Remove the screws and take out the entire assembly, do not pull the shaft out of the the round housing with the 3 screw holes, it may be hard to put back. With this removed, you can usually add solvent or very thin oil to the counter mechanism.
The rust can be removed for the most part with a metal bristle brush. Then the area where the rust was remove should be painted over with semi-gloss black paint so the rust does not return.
I have a Rollieflex 3.5 and went thru a thorough cleaning but when I actuate the shutter at speeds less than 1/30 th of a second the blades do not close all the way is this due to possible oil getting on the shutter blades? any suggestions or would you perform the few drops of lighter fluid method you describe in your video at 29:30. The self timer works fine.
There is a spring which holds open the hood, either the spring is broken, or has become disconnected. You can remove the four screws which hold on the hood, lift it out, then look under the focusing screen, there should be a spring arm on either sides which are clipped to the hood body. If they have come off, you can replace them.
Hi there! this is a great video thank you!!! I have a problem with my camera, a yashica 635, maybe you can suggest me something... The focus knob stopped working, as in I can rotate it but nothing change. So my focus is fixed infinity....any suggestions?
Thanks for the video. How would you fix a stiff focus nob? I can focus with my Ikoflex, but just turning the focus nob on it takes a ton of effort just to get it to turn
Im interested in this too; I know I have to clean and replace the grease around the focusing screw, but what kind to use, Im a bit lost. Would bet on some car joint grease because it is pretty neutral and stable at a wider temp. range than a camera will ever see, but Im not sure.
Thank you so much for this video! I just bought the rubber tool you used to clean the fungus on my Minolta Autocord III. Would lens cleaner fluid remove fungus?
I tried the lighter fluid method you suggested for the self timer. But I am seeing the lighter fluid is now on the shutter blades and gets stuck. I'm really worried this is a fix that will require taking apart the camera. Do you have any suggestions?
It is a rubber stopper, you can usually use a sink stopper sold at home centers, must make sure you find one which is roughly the same size as the name ring around the lens.
this has been great instruction...just to get it clear in my mind ..does the matte surface of the focusing screen face down into the chamber towards the mirror? Thanks, I subscribed to your channel.
Good afternoon, I have purchased a yashica mat 124g and I just referenced this video since you discuss the shutter sticking. I am only having an issue on the higher shutter speeds, 250 and 500. Do you think lighter fluid would fix this issue?
Hi i have the lens out from the body, but how do I open up the lens to get between the two lens elements? I'm trying to clean fungus that's inside in between the lens thanks
There should be a ring around the front of the lens group. This must be unscrewed to remove the front lens element. Some lenses have the ring on just round the from of the lens, on others it will thread on around the outside,
I have a mat 124g and I'm curious if my taking lens can be removed as this one can. It's a beautiful practically brand new camera except for the lens looks hazy. I'd like to clean it but it's underneath the front element and behind the aperture blades. Thank you for reading this.
Not sure dropping in lighter fluid id the best idea as it gets into all parts. Taking a part and cleaning/ oiling properly is always a better option. Also why did you not take the looking lens out from the front and clean inside?
It is the best option if you have the tools and know-how. More than a few people have tried to disassemble and clean a shutter only to break or lose a part, and have to toss out the entire camera.
You can remove the chrome ring around the viewfinder lens by loosening the 2 set screws and pulling it off, then twist off the front lens group with your hand, or with a rubber stopper.
It is fairly easy, as the B uses a triplet lens. If the haze doesn’t come off with cotton swabs and lens cleaning fluid, a small amount of metal polish added to a cotton swab wetted with lens cleaning fluid will often help. The coatings on these lenses is very strong, and not easily damaged.
Hey there I have a Yashica MAT EM. The mechanical frame counter is not working properly. It will just advance film. Luckily it still cocks the shutter so its useable. Any ideas on how to fix?
Make sure the pin which resets the counter is not broken off, it is pushed in when the film door is closed. I don't know if you have loaded film into the camera or are dry firing it, but you need to have a take-up spool in the camera for the counter to work
@@japanvintagecamera8869 I have been using this camera like this for several years now lol. Based on what your saying, I’m thinking some pin is bent out if alignment. I don’t hear anything jiggling around so I don’t think its broken off completely. Very sporadically the counter will engage for a frame or two and then goes back to not working. Like once or twice per 25+ rolls. If I were to remove the side plates and open up the lever advance mechanism where would the pin be located roughly? Top left? Right? Bottom left? Right? Near the frame counter dial? Thanks for the help!
Hi, thank you for this video it's been very useful. I have a yashica C and I have a question. My B mode isn't working, when I push the shutter button the shutter stays open for like 1/100sec even if I push and hold the button. What do you think I should do? Please reply🥺 @JapanVintageCamera
How does the take-up spool knob on the left come off? I have a Yashica-A missing one knob, and an extra with enough problems that I would like to transfer a knob from it to the good one.
I have taken up amateur camera repair as a result of watching your videos. I've already repaired the shutter and rangefinder mechanism on my Aires IIIC, and now I'm going to try my hand at a Yashica Mat EM and Yashica D TLR. I really don't think I would be nearly as confident as I am without your videos, they have really been a boon for me. And what's more, I am even more enthusiastic about my photography as a result of this, so I really want to thank you for all of the work you post to UA-cam. I am very grateful.
I used a rubber stopper from a walking stick as the lens removal tool. Worked great. Loved the tutorial, thank you.
genius!
Does the top lens undo for cleaning the same way please? Laurie
This is probably the most informative and well explained video regarding this camera on UA-cam! you are amazing. Thank you
I bought a Yashiflex, had no idea of its' condition. Turned out to be just slightly dusty, and with your help I managed to get it into near mint condition. Thank you!
I broke my Yashica 635 by accidentally setting the self timer. It was new to me and I was fumbling around with it. I did a self-timerecomy and replaced the leather from a ebay kit. Cleaned the lenses and replaced, upgraded, the mirror and ground glass. It works great now. I love that camera.
Great video, thank you. I was able to free up the slow speeds on my EM with the lighter fluid technique, and now my camera is working flawlessly.
Thanks again for this video! I just finished tuning up (cleaning) my new Yashica-A I purchased at eBay and it was stored away for a few decades. I even found a roll of Kodak Verichrome Pan that somebody shot and left inside the camera for it least 40+ years. Verichrome was discontinued in 1956. Following you now.
Did you develop that roll of film? Interested to know what was on it.
@@32ndFoto No yet. Shortly after tuning up my yashica I left the country and left the roll storaged, I΅will keep ypu posted as soon as I develop it.
I serviced my newly acquired Yashica A, while watching this video! Thanks for the upload.
Wow, what a coincidence! I just bought a Yashica A and my taking lens is FULL of fungus! I still cannot find how to look for the RUBBER INSTRUMENT he uses to unscrew the lens, here in Brazil. Any suggestions? Thank you!
@ Buy a cheap walking cane and take the Bottom Rubber
stopper off and use that. I did and it works just the same. You will also need a
Spanner Tool to remove the rear elements if needed... Both you can buy on eBay.
As a matter of fact instead of buying the whole cane, eBay or Amazon may just
sell the bottom rubber stopper for canes. By the way I just got a Yashica A off
eBay for $22 a few days ago.. Its a mess, but not for long, I will restore it back
to good working condition.
@@carlinifoto Thanks a lot for the tips!
@ looks like a rubber door stop to me !! DIY shop.
VERY helpful video. Excellent step by step instruction, followed it all and got my Yashica C cleaned, functioning and ready to try my first roll of film with it.
This was super helpful in cleaning off some mold on the taking lens of a camera i just bought. Thank you so much!
I can't believe it is a good idea to drop some lighter fluid into the opening of the timer release and not expect this to get into places you don't want it. Also I was suprised to see the recommendation of applying metal polish to a fragile silver coated mirror is a good idea?
I just bought a Yashicaflex A-II from Japan, the mirror was sitting crookedly as well as being moldy/spotty/scratched. In the video he addresses the method as being anything but recommended, saying that you need to be careful and also that you're polishing the silver coating off of the mirror. In any case - a new/replacement mirror is about 7 dollars. I was looking for one of those, but if metal polish can save me that amount (which would be half of what I paid for the camera itself) then great. If not, 7 bucks it is... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Fear not! He is polishing the glass. The silver coating is on the back of the mirror! The only word of caution would be that prolonged use of polishing glass using anything other than an optical flat surface may alter the curvature of the glass. However for a minute or two of rubbing the effect will be negligible.
@@northernpicturepoetry he is *not* polishing glass, he's polishing the silver. Camera mirrors, be them TLRs or SLRs, are front surface mirrors (meaning the silver coating is on the front surface, not the back surface like the mirror in your bathroom). Depending on make and year, that coating is as good as gone if you so much as touch it - don't ask me how I know.
I can't put into words the anxiety that polishing gave me lol.
The guy is a total hack but his audience knows even less than he does so he sounds good to them. No doubt he sold this camera as fully CLAd
Amazing. Thanks. The lighter fluid trick got my slow shutter Rolleicord working at all speeds again.
Thanks for the lighter fluid trick just fixed my sticky slow shutter speeds in like 5 seconds!
still working ?
@@juslitor no I’d say this is a quick fix but will end up sticking again. I’d suggest an actual repair to fix
Great video! I wish I knew this this procedure about a year ago when I found a Yashica Mat in perfect cond. except shutter was stuck. I should have bought it, but didn't.
Excellent. I just cleaned my Yashica-Mat LM and got everything back together thanks to this video. Thank you!
This is so cool. Thanks and hope to see more of them. Is so relaxing.
Thank you great video! Managed to get the fungus of the top lens of my Yashica Mat by taking the focus box off🎉
Your specialized tool looks like the rubber bottom of a walking cane... That's what mine is and it
works with no problem.. But I also have a Spanner tool as well. When cleaning the lens elements
you should hold them up to a light and you can see if there is any marks on them. Same with the
rear element. Without removing the rear element, you can open the back of the camera, open the
shutter with bulb mode and look through the back well holding it up to a light. You would be
surprised what you can see, that you cant see looking at the lens from the front. Same with a
bigger camera lens, hold it up to a bright light and look through the back and you can see everything
haze,dust, cleaning marks, scratches....ect...
Thank you for this video - helped me clean a very dirty focusing screen on my RIcohflex New Dia. Say what you want about the 4 screws... The focusing screen clips were my nemesis.
Thanks as well for all the other videos as well, very informative. Hopefully I'll be buying a camera from you soon.
Cheers.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Brilliant video and extremely useful! I have a 124g on the way and will be following your guidance! 👍🙏❤️
Great video. I have a Ricoh Diacord and i think that most of what you did is applicable to it as well, so thanks.
Do you have a Mamiya C330 Light Seal Replacement Video. If not, hopefully you can do one. Thanks for all you do.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you! ❤
Fantastic job. I can’t wait to get my first TLR camera 👌🏻🎞️
Thank you for this video! It fills me with renewed hope that I may, in fact, be able to resuscitate my grandfather's Yashica LM. Unfortunately (among other things) the tops of the screws that would hold the focusing hood in place have been completely sheared off! I'm not even sure how that's possible. Any advice on how to remove the portion of the screws still in the holes?
@Japan Vintage Camera
This video has been incredibly helpful and I thank you for the time to make it and show all of us how to repair these beautiful vintage TLR cameras.
I just picked up a broken Walz WALZFLEX TLR from a local resale shop in Sapporo that the aperture switch is jammed around the F5.6 area. Looks like the blades are jammed on the inside of the lens. Any ideas of how to fix it? I believe it has the Copal X shutter at highest 1/300s.
Awesome video and full of information. Thank you very much for sharing to the public.
I totally enjoyed your presentation. I am hooked, I have a question, how do you clean the back glass of the taking lens, not the viewing lens. Great video, Thanks
Just a heads up, went to clean the mirror in my Rolleicord model 2 with water and a q-tip and the silvering came off like nothing, no way could you try to polish it. Found replacements on eBay. Made the view through the ground glass much better.
Awesome video cheers I have an Airesflex model u in full working order it has however got some haze which makes it a bit iffy to nail focus so now I’ll try a clean up thanks 👌
I might buy one this weekend. Found a 124 for $200 USD, has some mold on the lens, but this video makes me confident in cleaning it. Sad part is the battery compartment is corroded but I’m reading that lithium battery won’t work so that doesn’t justify me haggling the price down.
my suggestion for re attaching a hood. cross hatch it.. start in the lower left or right and fasten that screw then the next one goes to the upper right. just like framing a house
i had a yashica for almost 5 years. learned not nearly enough from it. but re attaching a hood oh boy was that frustrating . know whats more. stripped screws, and stripped out holes, those are the ones with the fondest of memories.
This was a superb video in that have managed to resurrect a camera I assumed was going to be a costly repair. But take heed, getting the viewfinder hood screws back in will break your heart.
The trick is to only screw them in a littel until all of them are started, this allows you to move the hood around a little to line up the screw holes a little better.
Hello. Not sure what your name is, but thank you for your wonderful story in the comments section of the short documentary film about Japanese people living in the cyber cafes. It was very heart-warming and inspiring. Please visit Poland antytime, it's a beautiful place. Best wishes, stay safe & healthy.
Very informative video thank you :) Would you perhaps make a video on how to clean the leatherette or exterior of the camera?
Thank you! I'll be able to properly evaluate my auction find now.
Thank you! Just what I was looking for!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I own and routinely photograph with my Yashicaflex TLRs. I recently acquired a Walzflex with a focus that seems really gummed up, I have to work it gently but firmly to return it to infinity in the dial. Where would you recommend I add some solvent to unstick it? Or is there a larger issue? Thanks a bunch!
Hi there. Your video looks very helpful but the switch on the base of the front panel switches between M (for Magnesium, bulbs) and X (for Xenon flash-guns), it does not switch between manual speeds and a single flash sync speed. On a TLR with a leaf shutter, ALL speeds are flash synchronised, that is why wedding photographers used them for years, daylight flash sync at any speed - ideal!
Thank you!
Just a request, a few times the field of interest goes out of the frame so its hard to see where you're dropping the liquid, cleaning or moving the parts. It comes back in view, but it would be easier if you could first bring things inside the frame and then do the action, so we dont miss anything. Thanks
Hi there. Does the top lens undo with the rubber tool the same way? Thanks, Laurie
Great video, my yashica As shutter button doesn't seem to work or the shutters themself, there is no that clicking sound as they open n shut. How do I fix that. What cleaning liquid is that
Thank you for this detailed video. I have a Kinoflex (a Taogodo TLR for the Dutch market, which is very similar to the Beautyflex you showed on your channel.)
It has the problem you mentioned here, but did not need to address: the front does not come out evenly when focusing closer. Due to some friction, I figure, it swings to the right a bit. The angle can be easily controlled by moving the lens front with my fingers.
How would you fix that, please?
Great video, you made it look so easy. Thank you for the tips
I resurrected most of my Yashica Mat 124G with this very educational tutorial. I need help on replacing the camera’s light seal on the back cover and meter housing. I replaced the light seals on my RB67 film backs and hope this isn’t as difficult?
A video of how to calibrate focus lens with taken lens would be great!
I have a Yashica MAT 124 that has a fresnel under the ground glass. You said these are delicate and easy to scratch. How do you recommend cleaning the fresnel? Lens cleaning fluid and finger like the ground glass? My ground glass and fresnel have lots of dust and dirt that needs cleaned off. Thanks!
Thank you for the informative video! I have a particularly dirty mirror. Is there a brand or type of metal polish that you recommend for cleaning the mirror? I don't want to damage it...
Thank you, very informative, I’m wondering if the Yashica 12 view lens is just as simple to clean even though it has a light meter.
The viewfinder hood comes off the same way on th Yashica 12, only the name plate/meter is differnt.
Gracias por el video J.V.C.
Hace poco compré una Halma Flex I y la estoy poniendo a punto gracias a tus consejos.
Me falta ver el tema del obturador que no funciona en todas sus velocidades.
¡¡Saludos desde Argentina!!
I just squired a Yashica-mat EM and wish to clean it. Where can I find the tool to remove the lens or what is it called so I can search for one.
Thank you for your video, I’m sure it will serve to be quite helpful.
Hi thank you so much for the informative video. I've picked up a Olympus flex A 3.5, and have been able to clean the front lens elements successfully. However I can't remove the entire lens assembly to get at the front of the back lens (which has some minor haze on it). When I open the camera, there appear to be divots to unscrew the lens housing but I haven't been able to do that. Do you have any recommendations for cleaning the back lenses in this camera?
Thanks for the video. I have recently acquired a Yashica Mat 124, with a 124G viewing hood. I have a problem with the film counter and advancing the film. When I reach frame 8 or 9 and advance to the next frame it will jump to frame 12, the wind lever turns but it seems like only a half of a revolution, so I am losing frames. I had it apart to check the rewind lever mechanism and applied lightly a couple drops of oil at the pivot points but it did not help. I have so far only tried 3 rolls of film and have not had them developed yet so I don't know the condition of the photos~~~any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
The counter is a ring with slots, and an interrupter lever is supposed to catch the ring at each slot. Either the slots are deformed, or the ring is not clocked with the numbers. These are usually the most troublesome things to attempt to repair on TLR cameras. I can't recommend a particular way to fix it as the problem could be caused by a few different things.
Probably need to send it to Mark Hama (markhama.com). Will cost about $185 (last I checked) but you will get back a completely CLA'd camera and a warranty.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thanks for the reply~when I have a little more time I may try to find an exploded view of the area you mentioned to see what might be involved to do a little troubleshooting~~thanks for the info and great videos~
@@softdorothy ~Ah this is the person that will bring my Yashica back to life~~I will send a note to see what might be involved~~thanks for your input and suggestion~~^^
Would it be the same procedure for oily aperture blades, as with oily/sticky shutter blades?
yashica mat 124g,light meter glass missing,do you know where i can purchase a replacement,and how easy is it to instale,thank you and please keep making youre videos.
Hello ! Great video! Do you know how to calibrate the lens for the TRL Ricoflex 6 or 7 ?
This is a great video thanks so much. Could you do a similar style video for an Aires 35 or similar camera?
Hmm, interesting… but i was not able to remove the taking lens from Rolleyflex 3.5 A.. only a name ring.. any advice or suggestions please!
and my question is. on a ricoh diacord with a shutter that has recently gotten stuck. is the repair reasonably similar to this method?
Can I clean the mirror in my new Koniflex II camera in the same way? What flathead screw driver do I need to buy for those tiny screws that hold the finder on? Many thanks Tom
Where does one get a rubber stopper that you used to unscrew the front elements?
Door stopper. ;)
Just picked up one on Amazon. Probably searched for "lens removal tool" or similar.
Excellent, I have a Mamiya C220. The same basic principle to clean the view finder's glass?
The finder glass is more complicated on a Mamiya 220. There are 5 screws which hold on the glass, you must remove these, and do it carefully because there are spacers underneath the focusing screen panel. Make sure to work on a towel or similar, and not close to the edge of the table. Under the panel where the 3 screws are you should see some paper spacers. On the bottom, where the two screws are, there are usually washers on either side. Make sure these washers don't get lost, and make sure to put them back on the same sides they came from. The 220 has a focusing glass and a plastic fresnel underneath. These are held on by two clips each of which are held by two screws. You can remove one of the clips, then slid the fresnel and screen to one side to remove them. Keep an eye on which side the focusing scale on the class is marked, you need to put it back the same way. Clean the glass as I did in the video. The plastic fresnel requires more care, you can clean the bottom (smooth side) the same way as you clean the glass, but be gentle as the plastic is easily scratched. The other side of the fresnel should be cleaned only with a cotton swab and lens fluid, moving the swab in a circular motion. It's a good idea to take photos during the process so you remember what part goes where. When putting the screen and fresnel back in the panel, you can pry up on the clip you didn't remove so they slip under and are held in place.
Hi! How can you make shiny the skin of yashicaflex? Thank you
Hi!! i have a question! I have a rolleicord iv and the lens have some fungus at the front elements....i think you said that but i am not sure, the front elements group can separate in order to clean it between the elements??Thanks a lot! Very nice video!!
Just cleaned a YASHICA MAT-124 that a I just got. Internal lens is a bit stained and I can’t get it cleaned perfectly. I wish I could send you an image. I wonder if it will affect the images. I guess I’ll just have burn a roll to find out. There were lots of fungus in the mirror. I cleaned with just with the cleaning fluid and I wasn’t enough. Once I get the metal polish I’ll try again. Though It Still has nice reflection trough the finder.
You can also try to polish off the haze with metal polish, I find this often works to remove the worst of the haze. There are lens polishing compounds like cerium oxide, but this is a little harder to find, and doesn't work much better than ordinary metal polish. When using polish, be sure that you are using pure cotton swabs, make sure the swabs are wetted with lens cleaning fluid, and that you change the swabs frequently, this prevents coating particles or dust from leaving scratches on the glass or the mirror.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thank you, buddy!
nice...where abouts are you? i have a RollieFlex T and would like to have it serviced...just found out you're based in Tokyo.
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Do you know where I can find a replacement of the focus screen?
Hi - my opening knob on the yashicamat 124G is really tough and I have to use a towel but most of the times end up injuring my fingers. I can't see a way to take it off, any tips?
Thank you so much. How do you resolve an extremely stiff to move counter window lever please? It's the one part of your video the wasn't covered? Thanks in advance.
You can loosen up the counter by removing the winding knob cover, the screw underneath, and then the knob. Under that will be three screws which hold on the winding shaft and clutch. Remove the screws and take out the entire assembly, do not pull the shaft out of the the round housing with the 3 screw holes, it may be hard to put back. With this removed, you can usually add solvent or very thin oil to the counter mechanism.
How would you clean rust off the inside of a TLR?
The rust can be removed for the most part with a metal bristle brush. Then the area where the rust was remove should be painted over with semi-gloss black paint so the rust does not return.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 thank you!
I have a Rollieflex 3.5 and went thru a thorough cleaning but when I actuate the shutter at speeds less than 1/30 th of a second the blades do not close all the way is this due to possible oil getting on the shutter blades? any suggestions or would you perform the few drops of lighter fluid method you describe in your video at 29:30. The self timer works fine.
Hi, I have a weird problem with the focusing hood, it doesnt stay open,
Mine is a yashica 635
There is a spring which holds open the hood, either the spring is broken, or has become disconnected. You can remove the four screws which hold on the hood, lift it out, then look under the focusing screen, there should be a spring arm on either sides which are clipped to the hood body. If they have come off, you can replace them.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 thanks alot, ill give it a try.
Thankyou for the help 🙏🏽
@@japanvintagecamera8869 i have the same problem but found no springs beneath the screnn
Hi there! this is a great video thank you!!!
I have a problem with my camera, a yashica 635, maybe you can suggest me something...
The focus knob stopped working, as in I can rotate it but nothing change. So my focus is fixed infinity....any suggestions?
Great video thanks for the knowledge 👍
Thanks for the video. How would you fix a stiff focus nob? I can focus with my Ikoflex, but just turning the focus nob on it takes a ton of effort just to get it to turn
Im interested in this too; I know I have to clean and replace the grease around the focusing screw, but what kind to use, Im a bit lost. Would bet on some car joint grease because it is pretty neutral and stable at a wider temp. range than a camera will ever see, but Im not sure.
Do you offer cleaning, repair, or maintenance services for TLRs?
Thank you so much for this video! I just bought the rubber tool you used to clean the fungus on my Minolta Autocord III. Would lens cleaner fluid remove fungus?
I tried the lighter fluid method you suggested for the self timer. But I am seeing the lighter fluid is now on the shutter blades and gets stuck. I'm really worried this is a fix that will require taking apart the camera. Do you have any suggestions?
What model camera are you working on?
Yes, pouring lighter fluid into a camera is a really bad idea, this guy has no business advising people on camera service.
Hi i have a no.102 reflex traveller camera that was handed from a family member, are these worth restoring?
should the lenses be flush on every TLR camera or is it just on yashica, Im asking for flexaret III?
This video is so helpful! What is the width of the rubber tool you used for this Yashica?
It is a rubber stopper, you can usually use a sink stopper sold at home centers, must make sure you find one which is roughly the same size as the name ring around the lens.
Can you polish a Zanza Bronica mirror this way?
Yes, you can. Be careful not to clean too hard, you can rub the silver off the mirror.
could you please talk about the Yashica Mat, not the 124 of any other characters, just the Mat
Thanks for the video! Where can I find a camera store in tokyo that can deep clean my yashicaflex like what you did?
I am in Roppongi, you can contact me through one of my stores, I can do it for you.
Where did you get that round tool to get the lens out and what is its name?
The tool is a simple rubber stopper, you can find them on Amazon.
Would you happen to know the size screws used for the view finder cover (at approx. 27:05 in the video)? Thanks!
Did you find out what size the screws are by chance?
this has been great instruction...just to get it clear in my mind ..does the matte surface of the focusing screen face down into the chamber towards the mirror? Thanks, I subscribed to your channel.
Yes, the matte part of the srcreen faces downward toward the mirror.
Good afternoon,
I have purchased a yashica mat 124g and I just referenced this video since you discuss the shutter sticking. I am only having an issue on the higher shutter speeds, 250 and 500. Do you think lighter fluid would fix this issue?
Thank you.
Hi i have the lens out from the body, but how do I open up the lens to get between the two lens elements? I'm trying to clean fungus that's inside in between the lens thanks
There should be a ring around the front of the lens group. This must be unscrewed to remove the front lens element. Some lenses have the ring on just round the from of the lens, on others it will thread on around the outside,
I have a mat 124g and I'm curious if my taking lens can be removed as this one can. It's a beautiful practically brand new camera except for the lens looks hazy. I'd like to clean it but it's underneath the front element and behind the aperture blades. Thank you for reading this.
did you try it? I was wondering the same thing about mine. Very hesitant to try.
@@sali9204 currently really sick but plant to asap
Is there ever a need to lubricate any of the mechanism? If so what do you use?
Use sewing machine oil
Not sure dropping in lighter fluid id the best idea as it gets into all parts. Taking a part and cleaning/ oiling properly is always a better option. Also why did you not take the looking lens out from the front and clean inside?
It is the best option if you have the tools and know-how. More than a few people have tried to disassemble and clean a shutter only to break or lose a part, and have to toss out the entire camera.
can you unscrew the viewfinder lens to clean it? i have a yashica-a and looks fixed. thank you
You can remove the chrome ring around the viewfinder lens by loosening the 2 set screws and pulling it off, then twist off the front lens group with your hand, or with a rubber stopper.
Hello ! Is it possible to remove haze and fungus from Yashicaflex B old model ?
It is fairly easy, as the B uses a triplet lens. If the haze doesn’t come off with cotton swabs and lens cleaning fluid, a small amount of metal polish added to a cotton swab wetted with lens cleaning fluid will often help. The coatings on these lenses is very strong, and not easily damaged.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thank you very much !
Hey there I have a Yashica MAT EM. The mechanical frame counter is not working properly. It will just advance film. Luckily it still cocks the shutter so its useable. Any ideas on how to fix?
Make sure the pin which resets the counter is not broken off, it is pushed in when the film door is closed. I don't know if you have loaded film into the camera or are dry firing it, but you need to have a take-up spool in the camera for the counter to work
@@japanvintagecamera8869 I have been using this camera like this for several years now lol. Based on what your saying, I’m thinking some pin is bent out if alignment. I don’t hear anything jiggling around so I don’t think its broken off completely. Very sporadically the counter will engage for a frame or two and then goes back to not working. Like once or twice per 25+ rolls. If I were to remove the side plates and open up the lever advance mechanism where would the pin be located roughly? Top left? Right? Bottom left? Right? Near the frame counter dial? Thanks for the help!
Hi, thank you for this video it's been very useful. I have a yashica C and I have a question. My B mode isn't working, when I push the shutter button the shutter stays open for like 1/100sec even if I push and hold the button. What do you think I should do? Please reply🥺 @JapanVintageCamera
How does the take-up spool knob on the left come off? I have a Yashica-A missing one knob, and an extra with enough problems that I would like to transfer a knob from it to the good one.
The knob assembly comes off by turning the round base leftwards.
Is the neck of that attached to the splayed base?