It’s on the list. I haven’t got to that point yet. It can be a bit tricky! It’s on the radar once I get this engine done. If I get a chance I’ll try expedite it.
The bottom clamps are directional. They may be marked with an arrow for forward. Otherwise the rear face should sit flat to the fork with a gap at the front. Tighten the rear first, then the front. That provides a clamping effect.
Fun video Brian :) The axle caps are directional in that they should have a gap on the rearmost fitting, you tighten the front ones first then the back. Also you're missing the locking tab piece on the upper fixing of the front torque arm. Good luck with getting that bolt out in future with using that red Loctite lol. Bike looks great though and I love your enthusiasm :)
Thanks for the heads up on the upper locker. It’s laying in the bottom of a parts bin. I was like..where the hell did that come from? I checked my 70 and sure enough I totally missed that one. I’ll have to add a note to the video. I’ll probably be taking the wheels off to get the bike out of the basement. I’ll be sure to expand on those and make sure they are installed properly. Appreciate the input!
@@KeepOnWrenching You're doing great, I love how you take the time to get a good camera view and lighting also. PS I have a 1970 CB350 K2 named Henrietta :D
Thanks!! The vids definitely are adding to the build time but is also fun to document. I love my 70 CB. I can’t believe I haven’t named it. I just say baby a lot. Those tanks!!! Love em. Send my regards to Henrietta. :)
Thanks my friend. I'm going to need the torque specs on the disk brake nuts, axle nuts and everything else....Ha. Can't seem to find a torque guide for my 75 Honda 360t. I snapped one of the bolts on the front disk using a harbor freight torque wrench. What a piece of junk and I had two of them. One half and one three eights. I've been following your channel for a long time and love it. If you could just put a screen shot of torque numbers I'd appreciate it. Just finished the the front/rear bearings, new front calipers/brake pads (front and back), new tires, new electrical. Ha. I love it. Thanks to you I'm where I am. the cb77 you have...what are you going to do with it? I want two bikes for my last build. (I don't do this except for me). I wanted the 75 and want the 77. Be cool if it had the chrome tank and Red...Ha...Blue will do. Let me know and thanks
It’s all in videos 57 and 58. Wd40 and steel wool will get you a long ways followed up with rubbing compound. These rims were TRASHED. It’s amazing what can be saved. Thanks, Greg.
A little can’t hurt but the bearings are taking the rotation from what I understand. Once weight is down on the wheels the bearings are taking the load. If I recall I did lightly smear some grease on them for good measure. I should double check the manual though! Thanks for following along with the series and contributing!
Great video, Brian! Question for you in the tightness of the axle. When I tighten mine down, the hub doesn't move at all, and that's not really cranking it tight. I'm seeing on some forums that hand tight is plenty. Did you have to readjust after you got the wheel back on? (i.e. Did you have any trouble with the hub spinning?)
It should move freely unless the brakes are engaged. There are small alignment marks on the control arms. Small dots. Make sure those are lined up. You may just have the brakes engaged. Once those arms are aligned to the alignment marks it may elevate your issue. Worth a look.
Also, I did fail in installing my locking nut retainer on the upper brake drum stay bracket. Make sure you install that. I was going to cover that and the proper way to install the bottom axle clamps. You probably saw that in your manual. Just thought I’d mention that.
Probably shouldn't use red Loctite for anything on a motorcycle. Next guy (or you) is going to break off the bolt, not knowing that it needs to be heated. There is a particular way to install the axle caps. From common-motor: "Make sure to orient the holder with arrow facing the front of the bike. Torque the retaining nuts to 19.5 - 23.5 ft / lbs / 25 - 31 Newton Meters. The front nut must be torqued to spec first and then the rear nut second. When properly installed there will be a slight gap between the rear of the axle holder and the bottom of the fork tube. If not then the holder has been installed backwards." Should be no gap at the front and the surfaces should be flat against each other. Thanks for the videos.
Excellent videos Man. I have a 72’ CL 350 and your videos are wicked helpful.
That’s great to hear. Thats why they are there
The locker and bolt on my 1968 fell out while riding on the highway at 70mph! I am so thankful for your videos so i can get my Honda in prime shape!
That’d be super scary! I’m glad you’re finding the videos helpful. Good luck, Maor!
@@KeepOnWrenching was wondering if there is a video of the front brake cable removal/installation?
It’s on the list. I haven’t got to that point yet. It can be a bit tricky! It’s on the radar once I get this engine done. If I get a chance I’ll try expedite it.
The bottom clamps are directional. They may be marked with an arrow for forward. Otherwise the rear face should sit flat to the fork with a gap at the front. Tighten the rear first, then the front. That provides a clamping effect.
They definitely are. I need to make a follow up vid about that. Also the bar clamps have a similar indicator mark.
Fun video Brian :) The axle caps are directional in that they should have a gap on the rearmost fitting, you tighten the front ones first then the back. Also you're missing the locking tab piece on the upper fixing of the front torque arm. Good luck with getting that bolt out in future with using that red Loctite lol. Bike looks great though and I love your enthusiasm :)
Thanks for the heads up on the upper locker. It’s laying in the bottom of a parts bin. I was like..where the hell did that come from? I checked my 70 and sure enough I totally missed that one. I’ll have to add a note to the video. I’ll probably be taking the wheels off to get the bike out of the basement. I’ll be sure to expand on those and make sure they are installed properly. Appreciate the input!
@@KeepOnWrenching You're doing great, I love how you take the time to get a good camera view and lighting also. PS I have a 1970 CB350 K2 named Henrietta :D
Thanks!! The vids definitely are adding to the build time but is also fun to document. I love my 70 CB. I can’t believe I haven’t named it. I just say baby a lot. Those tanks!!! Love em. Send my regards to Henrietta. :)
Yes, the use of red loctite should be reserved for bolts that you never intend on removing again. Blue is the way to go for this application.
Thanks man!
Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks my friend. I'm going to need the torque specs on the disk brake nuts, axle nuts and everything else....Ha. Can't seem to find a torque guide for my 75 Honda 360t. I snapped one of the bolts on the front disk using a harbor freight torque wrench. What a piece of junk and I had two of them. One half and one three eights. I've been following your channel for a long time and love it. If you could just put a screen shot of torque numbers I'd appreciate it. Just finished the the front/rear bearings, new front calipers/brake pads (front and back), new tires, new electrical. Ha. I love it. Thanks to you I'm where I am. the cb77 you have...what are you going to do with it? I want two bikes for my last build. (I don't do this except for me). I wanted the 75 and want the 77. Be cool if it had the chrome tank and Red...Ha...Blue will do.
Let me know and thanks
No clue. Never dealt with a 360 but I can’t imagine it’s too different.
Wow. Those Rims shined up very well. How did you get them to shine up like?
It’s all in videos 57 and 58. Wd40 and steel wool will get you a long ways followed up with rubbing compound. These rims were TRASHED. It’s amazing what can be saved. Thanks, Greg.
Those fork caps should be directional they should have a up or front or something written on them
I’ll take a peek didn’t immediately notice anything but could have easily missed. Thanks for the heads up!
Brian Does the axle need to be lubed before installation?
A little can’t hurt but the bearings are taking the rotation from what I understand. Once weight is down on the wheels the bearings are taking the load. If I recall I did lightly smear some grease on them for good measure. I should double check the manual though! Thanks for following along with the series and contributing!
Great video, Brian! Question for you in the tightness of the axle. When I tighten mine down, the hub doesn't move at all, and that's not really cranking it tight. I'm seeing on some forums that hand tight is plenty. Did you have to readjust after you got the wheel back on? (i.e. Did you have any trouble with the hub spinning?)
It should move freely unless the brakes are engaged. There are small alignment marks on the control arms. Small dots. Make sure those are lined up. You may just have the brakes engaged. Once those arms are aligned to the alignment marks it may elevate your issue. Worth a look.
Also, I did fail in installing my locking nut retainer on the upper brake drum stay bracket. Make sure you install that. I was going to cover that and the proper way to install the bottom axle clamps. You probably saw that in your manual. Just thought I’d mention that.
Probably shouldn't use red Loctite for anything on a motorcycle. Next guy (or you) is going to break off the bolt, not knowing that it needs to be heated. There is a particular way to install the axle caps. From common-motor: "Make sure to orient the holder with arrow facing the front of the bike. Torque the retaining nuts to 19.5 - 23.5 ft / lbs / 25 - 31 Newton Meters. The front nut must be torqued to spec first and then the rear nut second. When properly installed there will be a slight gap between the rear of the axle holder and the bottom of the fork tube. If not then the holder has been installed backwards." Should be no gap at the front and the surfaces should be flat against each other. Thanks for the videos.
I dunno…the red locktite I’ve used never seems to set up. Maybe I am missing something or I am incredibly strong.
Didn't know Jack Black worked on his own bike
Lol. People keep saying that!
There's a dot on the fork caps that goes forward. Thats how you know they go on.
I need to make a video about that for sure. There is a proper way. Thanks for the reminder.