I very rarely reply to UA-cam videos, but this was excellent. It solved a challenge I have been having for weeks. I do like 12VoltVideo's channel that you reference, but your very clear communication approach, including a well shot and clear view of the board, schematics, and easy to follow explanation of these schematics was some of the best I've seen (and I have spent tons of time learning stuff via UA-cam and forums). Hats off to you sir. This video will help many people for years to come.
Thanks George. I did it this way to avoid taking all the sections apart. I like to do the “three hours of study, for 15 minutes of repair” method, instead of the other way around. It’s not very Portuguese of me, I know :)
Super video and well explained. My pioneer had exactly the same problem. With the help of your video, the display will now shine again. Many thanks and best regards from Switzerland, Richard
Very nice repair. I wonder how many perfectly good units were condemned as having faulty displays when it was a power supply problem all along. Glad you got this one up and running.
As that famous engineer from down under would say, "A thing of beauty and a joy forever." The first commandment of electronic troubleshooting stills applies, "Thou shalt take voltage measurements before all else." Well done.
Great job. Well deduced. I have watched most of Dave’s videos too. Very clever chap who can fix almost anything, especially TVs which was his bread and butter for many years. Had a bit of a yarn with him a while ago about Mullard valves which used to be made in the town I grew up in.
I have consulted this excellent video again as I am tinkering with another receiver that has a dim display. Despite your logical explanation, I found the bias between the plate and filaments discussion (at about 16min50sec) puzzling, until I redrew the circuit diagram in a text-book format, with the zener diode, on its end, current limiting resistor above, and the load (in my case, the centre tap of the transformer secondary feeding the filaments), to the right. This tip may be useful to other subscribers who find some of the circuit design a bit of a puzzle. I hope this video remains posted for many years, as its relevance continues to be valid. Owners want to keep their cherished vintage equipment out of the landfill.
Nice fix, and a good shout out to 12voltvids. I really like the way that many of the channels I enjoy reference each other, creates a really good worldwide community atmosphere - the internet showing its very best side!
I agree. Ultimately we all benefit from each other. My channel is still a little too small to be referenced, but that does not matter. Give credit where credit is due.
Very interesting and helpful video. My Yamaha RX-V390 had a dim display. As it turns out, the filament and bias voltages checked out OK, suggesting that the age of the VFD was the problem. Then I noticed that the VFD had a peel-off orange optical filter. I removed it, revealing a blue-green display at an acceptable brightness. Not sure why the optical filter was there, but I'm happy to get a few more years out of this equipment.
Thank you for sharing the video and your knowledge. I had a similar issue with my Pioneer SX-312R. The ac supply from the transformer was not coming and I added a small transformer for that but still the display was not working. After seeing video, I checked the V(FDP) and very same thing had happened. It works perfectly after replacing the resistor, capacitor and of course the transistor. Thank you again....
Super helpful explanation. I’m chasing a bad display on an Onkyo receiver and will check for the negative voltages. I found the AC filament voltage is good.
Ou man, that was absolutely great repair and info about vacuum fluorecent display. Some time ago i managed to repair Salora videos. Fail was dirty loading controll switching device. At first i tested power supply and tested output diodes and one of them seemed to be shorted, but it was not. It was -31 volts line diode. When i measured it with diode test it seemed to be shorted, but it wasn't. When i measured voltages when power was on all voltages were fine and there were no problem with the power supply. -31 volt line was ok. At first i thought that diode in -31 was shorted, but it was not.
The zener diodes can’t be tested with a normal diode check on the multimeter, which prompted me to design and build the zener diode tester that I have in my channel. As I said in the video, I got lucky with this one. It’s not always as easy as this to find a fault with these displays.
@@electronicsoldandnew Yes I know. I test them with 5-10mA current limit in lab power supply (out of circuit of course):). This diode was normal schottky rectifier diode in -31 line to power display if i remember right and i tested it in circuit with diode test and dmm peeped(plug out of wall of course). I don't know if i made mistake, but across it seemed to be shorted. There must be low resistance components in paralled with that diode. I had no schermatic for this device when i measured this power supply section. Voltage measurement, showed that all was ok in power supply.
That's a great fix EOaN. Great explanation too. Most surprising was I keep up with you 😃 That is a brilliant piece of equipment, makes me want to build a HiFi system like we had back then 😊😉
I have one freaky VFD which used to be mostly blue with some red. After using it for 30 years, it began to fade and it got to where it was so dim, I could only see it in the dark. About a year later when I turned it on once, the display came back with eye bleeding brightness. Ths blue became a bright white, the orange a very deep red. Another decade later and it is still very bright, but not as bad.
This part we had in our institut for audio-processing. But it goes to hell after a fire in the floor under our ones. The machine was full off black debris. The cleaning was to expensive, what a pity :-( Congrats to this easy fix, sometimes you must have luck! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video, great work, all DAT machines should be brought back to full working condition, DAT is an excellent format, I love it so much I have 4 machines.
I've got a Kenwood KE 7090 Graphic Equalizer everything works as it should when on but when I put it in standby mode the display glows reddish lines horizontal, any ideas what is causing this problem? It worked fine until recently
@@electronicsoldandnew would that be on the power board? Theirs two boards one for the power line in etc then the board for the display which I did swap out the capacitors, but if its over volting wouldn't that come from the actual power board? Thanks for your reply 👍
Awesome job. Subscribed. I have a Sony CDP-CX200 Mega disc changer with a wonky display. Between you and 12 volt vids I think I will venture inside to check the voltages. I just need to understand more about the transistor's and resistors and how you read those schematics to determine what's actually happening. My head is spinning. I've whatched this video 3 times already. Things a starting to sink in. What are those test leads you have that enable you to connect to the ribbon cable? Those look handy as hell. Thanks for the video. Rich.
I have no schematic for a duff display on a car radio. Can get to pins lots of -5v and one or two no volts.interestingly the radio wont tune....no clue here though you have prompted me a bit
The display on my vsx-5300 stopped working, it used to work intermittently for no reason but now it doesn't work at all. I took the cover off and checked the fuses and wiggled the ribbon cables around to check for bad connection but still nothing. I'd check voltages but I don't have a multimeter right now. Do you think it's safe to say it's probably a similar/the same issue as this?
Thanks for the very relatable narration. I'm troubleshooting a display on a Sont STR-GX9ES I just picked up that is in exceptional condition other than an inoperative display. The good news is now I know what I'm looking for. The bad news is the display started working again right after checking all the voltages...which is good news. What kind of DVOM are you using? I like the functionality.
Have a pioner pd s901 cd player. Also a great build.Build to last.I fixed the laser a couple of years ago.One thing i dont like is bad glued laser lens witch on the stable platter type just fall out.I glued it back.This is a fault i have seen on many laser disc dvd etc players.Still product made then was build to last a long time.
Great vid. Indeed 12 volt is a sharp dude! Learned quite a bit from him. Glad you also picked something up. Yet, another example of keeping it simple and following logical procedures saves time and wasted money.
0:104:25 I bought this MD and it didn't work so I changed the belt and it worked. It plays and records very good but the VU levels in the VFD do not work. what could it be? Look ua-cam.com/video/kCK_OrnLfeA/v-deo.htmlsi=fAjCa1Dxb7kXwNE6
I think you missed the warning triangle symbol by the resistor in question on the schematic. It indicates that the resistor should be a DCN 1003, which is the Pioneer part number for a fusible resistor ( 1/6W ?) . These fusible resistors are known to fail due to aging sometimes, but it would probably be wise to replace it with a similar part.
Hi there, great video, but are you still online? I have a similar issue with a Panasonic SU CH-40 stereo, everything works fine but the ampli display, bearly visible, meanwhile the CD display is entirely visible as new. I need your support to solve this issue if possible, I love my stereo component. Thank you
Given how well made the unit is, I was surprised to see C406 to be 47/35v with 31v on it. It only needs a slight hiccup on Q401 to see this cap cave in. They could have used a 50v cap like C405.
20:50 Pin 9 zero volts "I seem to have got lucky" Very good diagnostic skills and explanation of your thought processes. You earned yourself a new subscriber and thanks. Great that you thanked the other channel 12voltvids for the inspiration and It would be nice if you could link his video in your description too, in case you haven't already. His video is here ua-cam.com/video/5JWlFJa6dwQ/v-deo.html It took me a bit of Google Foo to find it
I very rarely reply to UA-cam videos, but this was excellent. It solved a challenge I have been having for weeks. I do like 12VoltVideo's channel that you reference, but your very clear communication approach, including a well shot and clear view of the board, schematics, and easy to follow explanation of these schematics was some of the best I've seen (and I have spent tons of time learning stuff via UA-cam and forums). Hats off to you sir. This video will help many people for years to come.
Thank you. Glad to have helped.
I love a seemingly complex problem turn into a simple fix. Great Repair.
Thanks George. I did it this way to avoid taking all the sections apart. I like to do the “three hours of study, for 15 minutes of repair” method, instead of the other way around. It’s not very Portuguese of me, I know :)
It always makes things easier. First thing when looking at some bit of gear... google common faults with xyz... works for me.
Super video and well explained. My pioneer had exactly the same problem. With the help of your video, the display will now shine again. Many thanks and best regards from Switzerland, Richard
my pleasure
Very nice repair. I wonder how many perfectly good units were condemned as having faulty displays when it was a power supply problem all along. Glad you got this one up and running.
I’m sure there were many.
As that famous engineer from down under would say, "A thing of beauty and a joy forever." The first commandment of electronic troubleshooting stills applies, "Thou shalt take voltage measurements before all else." Well done.
Thanks. I realised when I reviewed the video that I’d used one of Dave’s famous exclamations. I hope it’s ok with him :)
Great job. Well deduced. I have watched most of Dave’s videos too. Very clever chap who can fix almost anything, especially TVs which was his bread and butter for many years. Had a bit of a yarn with him a while ago about Mullard valves which used to be made in the town I grew up in.
Yes, Dave’s probably the original UA-cam engineer. Great channel.
I have consulted this excellent video again as I am tinkering with another receiver that has a dim display. Despite your logical explanation, I found the bias between the plate and filaments discussion (at about 16min50sec) puzzling, until I redrew the circuit diagram in a text-book format, with the zener diode, on its end, current limiting resistor above, and the load (in my case, the centre tap of the transformer secondary feeding the filaments), to the right. This tip may be useful to other subscribers who find some of the circuit design a bit of a puzzle. I hope this video remains posted for many years, as its relevance continues to be valid. Owners want to keep their cherished vintage equipment out of the landfill.
👍
Nice fix, and a good shout out to 12voltvids. I really like the way that many of the channels I enjoy reference each other, creates a really good worldwide community atmosphere - the internet showing its very best side!
I agree. Ultimately we all benefit from each other. My channel is still a little too small to be referenced, but that does not matter. Give credit where credit is due.
Excellent bit of trouble shooting there. A pleasure to watch and learn.
Thanks.
Thank you! I really like the way you explain things -- very helpful in learning electronics.
My pleasure
Very interesting and helpful video. My Yamaha RX-V390 had a dim display. As it turns out, the filament and bias voltages checked out OK, suggesting that the age of the VFD was the problem. Then I noticed that the VFD had a peel-off orange optical filter. I removed it, revealing a blue-green display at an acceptable brightness. Not sure why the optical filter was there, but I'm happy to get a few more years out of this equipment.
👍
Thank you for sharing the video and your knowledge. I had a similar issue with my Pioneer SX-312R. The ac supply from the transformer was not coming and I added a small transformer for that but still the display was not working. After seeing video, I checked the V(FDP) and very same thing had happened. It works perfectly after replacing the resistor, capacitor and of course the transistor. Thank you again....
my pleasure. glad it helped
Super helpful explanation. I’m chasing a bad display on an Onkyo receiver and will check for the negative voltages. I found the AC filament voltage is good.
Good luck
Thanks for sharing, loved the walkthrough process.
my pleasure
Its brightness is not only the quality but how long it was left for dead that preserved its longevity
True
Ou man, that was absolutely great repair and info about vacuum fluorecent display. Some time ago i managed to repair Salora videos. Fail was dirty loading controll switching device. At first i tested power supply and tested output diodes and one of them seemed to be shorted, but it was not. It was -31 volts line diode. When i measured it with diode test it seemed to be shorted, but it wasn't. When i measured voltages when power was on all voltages were fine and there were no problem with the power supply. -31 volt line was ok. At first i thought that diode in -31 was shorted, but it was not.
The zener diodes can’t be tested with a normal diode check on the multimeter, which prompted me to design and build the zener diode tester that I have in my channel. As I said in the video, I got lucky with this one. It’s not always as easy as this to find a fault with these displays.
@@electronicsoldandnew Yes I know. I test them with 5-10mA current limit in lab power supply (out of circuit of course):). This diode was normal schottky rectifier diode in -31 line to power display if i remember right and i tested it in circuit with diode test and dmm peeped(plug out of wall of course). I don't know if i made mistake, but across it seemed to be shorted. There must be low resistance components in paralled with that diode. I had no schermatic for this device when i measured this power supply section. Voltage measurement, showed that all was ok in power supply.
That's a great fix EOaN. Great explanation too. Most surprising was I keep up with you 😃 That is a brilliant piece of equipment, makes me want to build a HiFi system like we had back then 😊😉
Thanks. That time is gone... but we, the privileged few, get to keep them alive :)
I have one freaky VFD which used to be mostly blue with some red. After using it for 30 years, it began to fade and it got to where it was so dim, I could only see it in the dark. About a year later when I turned it on once, the display came back with eye bleeding brightness. Ths blue became a bright white, the orange a very deep red. Another decade later and it is still very bright, but not as bad.
This inspired me to try and repair an old 300 CD changer that I once picked up at the Goodwill store, and plays fine but has a weak VFD.
Good luck.
The D-07 was among the best consumer DAT decks ever made.
I believe it
This part we had in our institut for audio-processing. But it goes to hell after a fire in the floor under our ones. The machine was full off black debris. The cleaning was to expensive, what a pity :-(
Congrats to this easy fix, sometimes you must have luck! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure
Thank you very much ~ my d-07 screen problem fix!
👍
Excellent video, great work, all DAT machines should be brought back to full working condition, DAT is an excellent format, I love it so much I have 4 machines.
I agree. This is a great machine.
What a great video - thanks! Hopefully I'll be able to fix my Sony using similar tactics.
👍
Ha! Nice to see you work on a high tech device for a change! But, heck, it still has valves!
Valves are the new high tec 😊
C406 to at least a 50volt rating great job I like it when it works out like it did for you take care
I used 63v caps to be safe.
I've got a Kenwood KE 7090 Graphic Equalizer everything works as it should when on but when I put it in standby mode the display glows reddish lines horizontal, any ideas what is causing this problem? It worked fine until recently
Could be the supply filtering caps to the display board.
@@electronicsoldandnew would that be on the power board? Theirs two boards one for the power line in etc then the board for the display which I did swap out the capacitors, but if its over volting wouldn't that come from the actual power board? Thanks for your reply 👍
Awesome job. Subscribed. I have a Sony CDP-CX200 Mega disc changer with a wonky display. Between you and 12 volt vids I think I will venture inside to check the voltages. I just need to understand more about the transistor's and resistors and how you read those schematics to determine what's actually happening. My head is spinning. I've whatched this video 3 times already. Things a starting to sink in. What are those test leads you have that enable you to connect to the ribbon cable? Those look handy as hell. Thanks for the video.
Rich.
Glad to help. I got those leads here:
www.welectron.com/Hirschmann-KLEPS-2-BU-Miniature-Clamp-Type-Test-Probe
I have no schematic for a duff display on a car radio. Can get to pins lots of -5v and one or two no volts.interestingly the radio wont tune....no clue here though you have prompted me a bit
good luck
The display on my vsx-5300 stopped working, it used to work intermittently for no reason but now it doesn't work at all. I took the cover off and checked the fuses and wiggled the ribbon cables around to check for bad connection but still nothing. I'd check voltages but I don't have a multimeter right now. Do you think it's safe to say it's probably a similar/the same issue as this?
I’d guess so.
Beauty! Lucky and well done.
👍
Thanks for the very relatable narration. I'm troubleshooting a display on a Sont STR-GX9ES I just picked up that is in exceptional condition other than an inoperative display. The good news is now I know what I'm looking for. The bad news is the display started working again right after checking all the voltages...which is good news.
What kind of DVOM are you using? I like the functionality.
It’s a Brymen 869S. Great multimeter.
Have a pioner pd s901 cd player. Also a great build.Build to last.I fixed the laser a couple of years ago.One thing i dont like is bad glued laser lens witch on the stable platter type just fall out.I glued it back.This is a fault i have seen on many laser disc dvd etc players.Still product made then was build to last a long time.
I’ve also noticed that issues with glue are common for that era.
Great vid. Indeed 12 volt is a sharp dude! Learned quite a bit from him. Glad you also picked something up. Yet, another example of keeping it simple and following logical procedures saves time and wasted money.
True. I’ve learnt a lot from him and a few others. That’s what makes this fun.
Nice work. 🥂
Thanks
Hi great video, i love old audio equipment. You sound South African by the way
Yes, grew up there in PMB and studied at Durban varsity.
0:10 4:25 I bought this MD and it didn't work so I changed the belt and it worked. It plays and records very good but the VU levels in the VFD do not work. what could it be? Look
ua-cam.com/video/kCK_OrnLfeA/v-deo.htmlsi=fAjCa1Dxb7kXwNE6
Check if there are alignment instructions on the manual.
Well done! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.
Good luck sir...
Thanks
Are you sure the cabinet is made from copper ? Sometimes the copper plate steel to inhibit corrosion . I was just wondering.
It’s been a while, but if I remember correctly, it’s actually copper
@@electronicsoldandnew thank you good sir
I think you missed the warning triangle symbol by the resistor in question on the schematic. It indicates that the resistor should be a DCN 1003, which is the Pioneer part number for a fusible resistor ( 1/6W ?) . These fusible resistors are known to fail due to aging sometimes, but it would probably be wise to replace it with a similar part.
I saw the symbol. They are indeed supposed to blow if overloaded. I think I should replace it with a 0.25W one, just to be safe.
Nice video as always. Where do you get your schematics.
For hi-fi equipment it’s mostly at:
www.hifiengine.com
Ótimo trabalho.vivendo y aprendendo,serviço 5 estrelas ou mais, saudaçoes; grande abraço.
Obrigado
Hi there, great video, but are you still online? I have a similar issue with a Panasonic SU CH-40 stereo, everything works fine but the ampli display, bearly visible, meanwhile the CD display is entirely visible as new. I need your support to solve this issue if possible, I love my stereo component. Thank you
I’m afraid I can’t do that as this is purely my hobby working on my own projects.
got it , thx any way
Given how well made the unit is, I was surprised to see C406 to be 47/35v with 31v on it. It only needs a slight hiccup on Q401 to see this cap cave in. They could have used a 50v cap like C405.
I know. Even C405 is close to the possible limit considering peaks of 46v coming in from the diode. I replaced both with 63V caps.
20:50 Pin 9 zero volts "I seem to have got lucky" Very good diagnostic skills and explanation of your thought processes. You earned yourself a new subscriber and thanks. Great that you thanked the other channel 12voltvids for the inspiration and It would be nice if you could link his video in your description too, in case you haven't already. His video is here ua-cam.com/video/5JWlFJa6dwQ/v-deo.html It took me a bit of Google Foo to find it
Welcome to the channel. I think listing the link in the description is a great idea. I’ll do that. Thanks.
@@electronicsoldandnew thanks great of you to acknowledge 12voltvids video. Really enjoying your content thanks. You explain things very clearly.
Bem mais facil do que parecia
PS I bought another one with the same issue to work on it before ruin mine :)
👍
Got a circuit you wanna build? Test it out here first. Check out androidcircuitsolver on google
Probably a bloody fusible resistor! God I hate them.
It was.
fucking advertisment coming very frequently, busted
And you believe swearing is a justified response? nope 👎
I would wonder about wattage of resistor, or was it cracked from manufacturer. No matter, still a good fix. Great enjoyment on viewers side . Thanks.
This little resistor is rated at 1/6W which is very little. I put in a 0.6W instead.