Another way to set the iac.... a little less time. Get engine up to operating temp(not just thermostat opening temp). 190- 210. Shut vehicle off. Open plates with adjuster screw. Cover the iac feed hole on top of the sniper. Lock timing like you are going for timing adjustment (timing control also effects idle speed more than air fuel). Now start your vehicle and adjust the idle speed like you would with an old carb to 50 rpm BELOW your target speed. Exit out of the timing lock. Remove iac block tape. Now restart your vehicle. It will work. Ignore big swings on the iac after this. I have seen crazy numbers when used with sniper timing controlled distributors. It'll retard-advance timing to adjust idle speed before moving iac up and down.
I have installed 3 black Holley sniper units. All 3 were replaced because of the same issue. They sprayed the black powder coating inside of the unit. the easiest way to see is to take off the left side cap that the return fuel line connects to. then pull out the diaphragm that's behind it. You will see it has black powder coating inside of it where it is exposed to gas and it will peel. 2 of the 3 just wouldn't run after the screen on the diaphragm clogged the 3rd saw fuel pressure issues and just went WOT on me with zero throttle control, that was scary. If you have a black unit check that out, Holley replaced all mine with a brand new one but they send out a new one with the same issue. I would recommend not getting powder coated units for replacement.
I have been chasing a high idle issue with my sniper and turbos. Had everything going good put the hat on and it idles at 2200. Wont come down. Im going to throw some tape and put the carb hat on and see if that fixes my issue. Im glad i seen ur video and that ur also using boost.
Great videos regarding Sniper EFI. I wonder about the 02 sensor; it says to put about 10" from the collector point. But I see you put yours a bit further down the line. How did that work out?
Hi si I hav an 65 mustang I’m using a msd atomic when I come to a stop the engine stall, shut down can u tell me what would make it do that, how can I fix that? Thanks
Ok so this is where I get confused. My entire system is Holley. You and them say to set the static timing. Now is the engine(harmonic balancer) tape at 0 TDC while the electronic system sets it at the static timing or do you set the engine(harmonic balancer) at 20° and your telling the system that's what the engine is set at. I've also noticed that the "phasing" tool that Holley gives you sets the distributer AFTER the number one cylinder spark. And it was giving me issues there. So with all that said. Is the engine supposed to be set at 20° BTDC or is it supposed to be set at 0° TDC and you're instructing the computer to move the distributor itself as it's controlled by the ECU
Before you started with the full turn inward, were you at no contact? I saw a post from Holley saying 1 turn in from first contact between screw/plate. Curious if first start up was no contact between screw/plate. Thanks!
Stephen thanks for the question. This process is done after the engine is warm. So first start can be no contact if it runs ok or adjusted to let it idle up to allow the engine to get up to temperature. Once up to temperature begin this process. Usually it will be a full turn after contact. The biggest thing is to get the throttle blades open beyond the idle air control, so the computer will try to get the Iac to zero. Then backing the screw off with allow the IAC to take over. I hope this was helpful. Good Luck on the project Troy
You’re videos are really super. , your knowledge and explanation is clear and logical… but how in the hell can you live with those GDamn squeaky belts !!!!! Haha. Please fix
Hi Mark, Yeah I like the Holley Sniper. It is a bit of a learning curve and requires some patience. But I think it's a great system overall. There is a lot to it and it can be tuned quite extensively. This truck has a Procharger and that required some modifications for proper function under boost and under vacuum. I think it really came out well. My customer is now getting 17 MPG on average. And the driving manners are great. Nice to hear from you Mark. Good Luck with your project
i thought it would be fantastic to have a holley efi, NOT! if you got all the time in the world to be on hold for the tech line go ahead but a good carburetor works fantastic....
@@lindsaymayot4006 I feel your pain. It is quite a learning curve. If you are a mechanic with good electrical skills you can work thru it. If you are a weekend warrior it's best to have someone else get it installed and set up for you.
Just get the Edelbrock pro flow system. If your building an engine it comes with the intake manifold so that one less expense to consider with a sniper system. Plus it's port fuel injection not TB injection. I got the original pro flow first gen over 20 years ago and it's still on my sb 406 running perfectly the gen 4 out now is not only easier to tune but about a grand less than what I originally spent.
@@stoneyswolf I have another project coming up and was looking at the Edelbrock System. Port fuel injection is the next level, and closer to "real" fuel injection.
Get Your Fixed Orifice PCV Valver here amzn.to/3sD4ssP
I wished that you were closer to Saugus, I’m this close to firing it up and could use a pro by my side for this start up.
Great video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank You and good luck my friend
0:14 started car before fuel pump cycle was done now sounds like its loading up does take gas well
Look down the throttle body. See if you have a leaking injector.
Another way to set the iac.... a little less time. Get engine up to operating temp(not just thermostat opening temp). 190- 210. Shut vehicle off. Open plates with adjuster screw. Cover the iac feed hole on top of the sniper. Lock timing like you are going for timing adjustment (timing control also effects idle speed more than air fuel). Now start your vehicle and adjust the idle speed like you would with an old carb to 50 rpm BELOW your target speed. Exit out of the timing lock. Remove iac block tape. Now restart your vehicle. It will work. Ignore big swings on the iac after this. I have seen crazy numbers when used with sniper timing controlled distributors. It'll retard-advance timing to adjust idle speed before moving iac up and down.
I have installed 3 black Holley sniper units. All 3 were replaced because of the same issue. They sprayed the black powder coating inside of the unit. the easiest way to see is to take off the left side cap that the return fuel line connects to. then pull out the diaphragm that's behind it. You will see it has black powder coating inside of it where it is exposed to gas and it will peel. 2 of the 3 just wouldn't run after the screen on the diaphragm clogged the 3rd saw fuel pressure issues and just went WOT on me with zero throttle control, that was scary. If you have a black unit check that out, Holley replaced all mine with a brand new one but they send out a new one with the same issue. I would recommend not getting powder coated units for replacement.
Interesting discovery. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I hope you have more videos planned. Very well done.
Thank You!
Do you have a video for setting the inductive delay? Thank you, great information.
Actually I don't. That would be a great futre video.
Thanks for the comment
This really helpful. Hopefully this solves my issue.
Good Luck, thanks for the comment
Awesome video! Thanks
You are welcome my friend. Glad it could help you.
Is their a book for this to know what the timing setting are 502 bb Chevy
Not that I am aware of. Generally 36-38 Degrees of total advance.
I have been chasing a high idle issue with my sniper and turbos. Had everything going good put the hat on and it idles at 2200. Wont come down. Im going to throw some tape and put the carb hat on and see if that fixes my issue. Im glad i seen ur video and that ur also using boost.
when you key of the engine, the TPS gets reset to zero, not the IAC. it has a parked value
Thank you sir great content
Thank You. Glad I could help
I have a 4150 stealth. Just set it up runs good , but some time has a dead spot when taking off?? Stall sometimes to
Keep driving it should improve. The stalling could be many things. Watch the handheld and see what is happening when it stalls.
I definitely need you to look at my sniper settings. Where is your shop located?
Central Massachusetts
Great videos regarding Sniper EFI. I wonder about the 02 sensor; it says to put about 10" from the collector point. But I see you put yours a bit further down the line. How did that work out?
Great video what size are your tach and speedometer gauges and what brand.
Autometer Gauges. I think 5" or 6". Not my truck belongs to a client
Hi si I hav an 65 mustang I’m using a msd atomic when I come to a stop the engine stall, shut down can u tell me what would make it do that, how can I fix that? Thanks
Ok so this is where I get confused. My entire system is Holley. You and them say to set the static timing. Now is the engine(harmonic balancer) tape at 0 TDC while the electronic system sets it at the static timing or do you set the engine(harmonic balancer) at 20° and your telling the system that's what the engine is set at.
I've also noticed that the "phasing" tool that Holley gives you sets the distributer AFTER the number one cylinder spark. And it was giving me issues there.
So with all that said. Is the engine supposed to be set at 20° BTDC or is it supposed to be set at 0° TDC and you're instructing the computer to move the distributor itself as it's controlled by the ECU
Yes to the last paragraph.
You don’t have to do a throttle reset after you after the idle screw?
A key cycle should do it.
thanks
Is that a regular sniper, or the super sniper?
Before you started with the full turn inward, were you at no contact? I saw a post from Holley saying 1 turn in from first contact between screw/plate. Curious if first start up was no contact between screw/plate. Thanks!
Stephen thanks for the question. This process is done after the engine is warm. So first start can be no contact if it runs ok or adjusted to let it idle up to allow the engine to get up to temperature. Once up to temperature begin this process. Usually it will be a full turn after contact. The biggest thing is to get the throttle blades open beyond the idle air control, so the computer will try to get the Iac to zero. Then backing the screw off with allow the IAC to take over. I hope this was helpful. Good Luck on the project Troy
@@troykane Thanks for that reply. Helpful. It's been the way I'm going, but good to know I'm not (completely) crazy. Thanks again!
How could I get a tune that I can upload to my system ?
Contact my tuner. Nick from Mad Science Motorsports. mad-sciencemotorsports.com
And then uh
Wow!!!!
You’re videos are really super. , your knowledge and explanation is clear and logical… but how in the hell can you live with those GDamn squeaky belts !!!!! Haha. Please fix
Thank you for the comment. I am glad I could be of help
Great video Troy. I’m thinking of going fuel injection on my next project. Is the sniper something you would recommend?
Hi Mark, Yeah I like the Holley Sniper. It is a bit of a learning curve and requires some patience. But I think it's a great system overall. There is a lot to it and it can be tuned quite extensively. This truck has a Procharger and that required some modifications for proper function under boost and under vacuum. I think it really came out well. My customer is now getting 17 MPG on average. And the driving manners are great. Nice to hear from you Mark. Good Luck with your project
i thought it would be fantastic to have a holley efi, NOT! if you got all the time in the world to be on hold for the tech line go ahead but a good carburetor works fantastic....
@@lindsaymayot4006 I feel your pain. It is quite a learning curve. If you are a mechanic with good electrical skills you can work thru it. If you are a weekend warrior it's best to have someone else get it installed and set up for you.
Just get the Edelbrock pro flow system. If your building an engine it comes with the intake manifold so that one less expense to consider with a sniper system. Plus it's port fuel injection not TB injection. I got the original pro flow first gen over 20 years ago and it's still on my sb 406 running perfectly the gen 4 out now is not only easier to tune but about a grand less than what I originally spent.
@@stoneyswolf I have another project coming up and was looking at the Edelbrock System. Port fuel injection is the next level, and closer to "real" fuel injection.