Nikon Z9 & Z8 has poor AF compared to Sony and Canon bodies. In fact they are consistently inconsistent in their AF accuracy especially while tracking. Quite sad considering that 3D AF in Nikon DSLRs were quite good
I sold my Nikon for canon only for the frustrating AF. Pros and cons but AF is priority for me. I tried everything for my Nikon, gave up. I’m happy now!
@@baredesigns1 there’s literally 2 canon bodies with better AF (photo/video) than Z8/9 and 2 Sony bodies. Those were released very recently and are much newer than Nikons 3+ year old tech. And still it’s close. If you can’t get the shot from the top of those three brands, it’s you not the camera.
I have R6mkII and R7. Great video with your wise recommandations. I had more or less the same setup as other than I modify case 2 rather than case 1 as you have.
Jan - thanks for taking the time to produce another really helpful technical video - much appreciated by an R7 / R5 user! I've been relying on your set-up advice and getting very encouraging results.
Jan, thank you greatly for this video. I've been doing photography seriously for the last 6/7 months or so, getting ok results. After watching this video last night and changing some settings, I took some of my best photos today of a kestrel over here in the UK, thanks to your case settings advice. Thank you brother 👌👍📷
Hi, I love watching your videos. I shoot with a Nikon z6II, I would love to see a video on how best to tweak the autofocus for Nikon and also how to customise a second button for autofocus on the Nikon.
Your tweaks for the R5 Mk ii are spot on Jan! I mainly shoot very different subjects to you, but after much experimenting when I first got the camera, I settled on pretty much those settings as my "go to" ones for motor racing. In particular, I've found that having the AF set to responsive is very effective in initially locking on and holding focus on suddenly appearing and rapidly approaching cars.
Another excellent tutorial on settings, just checked, only had to tweak a couple as I am set up from your first R5 tutorial, I rely totally on these settings and have found them faultless and extremely helpful, can't afford to upgrade yet but am pretty happy with the original R5, thanks heaps Jan.
Great vid, I am loving the advice, I am new to mirrorless and have recently bought a R5 ii and on a very steep learning curve so any help is very much appreciated, between yourself and your friend Duade (great guy) I am learning.
Thanks Jan, a really useful video. I have an R7 and have had some frustrating moments with my AF especially with BIF. Looking forward to testing your suggestions. Have a good Christmas 😊
I went out yesterday to test your AF Settings recommendation, Auto +1. I was photographing small songbirds in the brush, perfect subject and environment to put the camera to the test. To say I was shocked is an understatement. It felt like I was using a different camera. This is the stickiest the AF has been particularly on very small songbirds. Eye AF did a much better job acquiring those small eyes even in trees, densely packed with branches where the AF normally struggles. I haven't tried this with birds in flight yet but so far, success! My theory is the Auto +1 setting puts the new Digic Accelerator with AI learning into hyperdrive. I also just purchased your Photoshop Master Class. Keep up the great work Jan!
I really liked this video. I found it interesting to see some of the options on the other Canon cameras! I think it’s easy to set up the camera and forget to fine tune these over time. R5 shooter. I hike and shoot whatever I find, so my setup is more general, with 3 back button auto focus. One for animal eye tracking, one for spot and 1 preset for quick action and a wider focus area. What I haven’t figured out is where I could set a button to change my autofocus points easily on the fly. I use the dof button from moving in and out of crop mode. I’ve tried the control ring on the lens which will toggle through the options, but as soon as I touch any back button to engage that zone, it goes to its programming. I’m probably missing something basic.
@@jan_wegener I use that to switch to video, which you showed me and is great. I’m hard pressed to give up my 3 bbf setttings. When I use the lens ring, I can cycle through the options,but as soon as I hit any of my 3 bbf options, it overrides the new choice with the button programming. So even when I change zones, I think I still have to focus before hitting the shutter, right?
Regards the A7, earlier this year I saw a link to a Canon paper that discussed AF at high frame rates - using the maximum frame rate causes a voltage drop which means less power to drive the lens AF motors. I am guessing this is a problem for all camera manufacturers. I also understand that in the evolution of the EOS 5D series various updates tinkered with the power management, splitting it between AF power to the lens and other camera functions - and I would guess that this is why with the R5 you do not get all functions if you use older legacy batteries. With the beefier batteries in the R1 (or 1Dx range) this is less likely an issue.
I have read that the smaller pixels on the R7 means less light for the DPAF to function accurately. Also, the slower readout speed of the APS-C R7 sensor directly affects the R7 too. Like Jan said, Canon CPS have advised me to drop the FPS to enable more accurate AF performance (this time though the gear is a R3 and older mark 1 EF 500mm prime). I can confirm that dropping from H+ to H resulted in slightly improved AF performance with that combination. I also remember an older interview with Chuck Westfall of Canon USA who indicated that the bigger batteries of the 1 series cameras produced more current that enabled those cameras to drive the big super telephotos AF systems more accurately. I am guessing that this also rings true with the modern MLCs and the consumer units that have the smaller batteries with lower amperage delivery.
Don't have any planned atm. I usually only do one at launch and then not anymore, so everyone pays the same price and no one gets upsets if it goes on sale suddenly :) And it's already great value :) You can get on my email list in case something changes
Jan fantastic work over the years you are a man I look up to and appreciate all the great content you give to us all. Hoping for your master class videos for Christmas I have dropped plenty of hints lol . Happy holidays mate to you and yours, and continued success for the New Year 🥂 Warm regards from Stuart Perth W.A
As always, a very good and informative video mate. Did a few tweeks on my camera, while looking at the video hehe. Wishing you and yours a great holiday, and looking forward to your next video. Cheers, Bjoern.🦘🦜🦩🎄📸
Thanks Jan, I enjoy my R7,but from the day I bought it I've been waiting for the R7II, and hopefully this will have a faster sensor -scan, along with the R5II auto focus and pre-trigger. A Sony -like 'increase frame rate' with button control would be useful.
Thanks Jan, interesting new insight regarding the R5ii AF servo character ! Certainly will try this next time ! Sounds a bit like inverse logic .. but Japanese English and negations are always a tricky cocktail .. soo just maybe they intended to use a pos value to calm it down 😛 The new R7 trick I'll pass on to my wife and my colleague !
how many different areas are there in Australia for birding - I know they are far apart but I am thinking what to look at if I want to maximize a trip for birding - thanks for your great videos
jan my main question is whats up with the focus box expanding or moving around when in spot mode? i had some luck with the r5ii but i actually sent it back to canon to get checked because the focus jumps off of my subject and focusses on the background 75% of the time. the settings you suggest are great tho especially for the r5! thanks!
this must be a new feature with the r5ii. my old r5 allows me to spot focus on lets say a great blue herons head if thats where the spot is and then i can easily use eye af to lock on the subjects eye. with the r5ii my camera was hitting the blue herons back even if my spot was exactly on the birds head.
Love your work Jan. R5mkii shooter here. Like with my R5, I have played with every AF case setting on my R5ii. Using the precaptue and 30fps is addictive shooting bif taking off, and landing and dragonflys in flight.using the RF 100-500 On my R5mkii, I currently have the AF case on Manual, with both sliders set on max. With the sliders @ mid, the AF simply does not track fast enough for birds taking of towards me, nor does it stay on fragonflys making fast movements. With the AF sliders on max, Yes, @ max, the AFcan be a bit jumpy, and jump of the eye after a few seconds, but I have progammed one of the button to instanty return the AF to centre in any AF mode. Thus, if the AF jumps of the eye, I can return it with a tap. And the AF starts again from that centre point and locks on to the closes eye - for a few seconds. If I am waiting a minute for a perched bird to take off, I just tap my AF to centre button every few seconds and it stays there. I learned all of this after analysing many 30fps sequences where only the first few frames were in focus with the zliders on mid or to the left. Then I tried sensitivity and tracking on max, and it works - the only challenge left now is keeping the subject in frame.
Will watch the video later. Hope it'll help me fix my problem: On my actual camera's for wildife, R7 and R5, if I hold the back button focus ( eyeAF, servo, animals), I sometimes lose focus when I start shooting in H/H+ after 3-4 pictures.
Thanks Jan. I'm having a lot of trouble with my new RF200-800 (kind of like what I've seen to be AF pulsing with the Sigma 150-600c, R3 body). My 25 year old mark 1 EF 500mm prime currently easily outperforms the new lens in terms of AF accuracy and consistency and the new lens has been a massive disappointment for me. Been talking to Duade about it and he's suggested a few things testing wise, which I will do. I wonder if some of these AF changes will work (I have the case set to auto for my R3, which has worked very well with the older EF lens). I don't know if I've got a dud RF200-800, or it's user error or not.
Great stuff Jan. I notice some cameras or lenses have a manual+autofocus setting which I have found useful. Would that obviate the last electronic MF setting if it was available. I often wondered why more lenses or cameras did not have this feature.
@@jan_wegener Yes, the switch on the lens, but I have a Sony RX10 bridge camera which has a switch on the camera and the more expensive Sonys have a camera switch. But I think all big lenses should have it. The big Sigma I used to use had it and I found it really useful. But I see on your video on assigning the focus to a back button sort of makes it unnecessary.
Very interesting! I will try the one for R5 II and see how it goes! I have been experimenting with lens IS as well... still not sure if, its best to leave entirely OFF, or only Panning, or if can use 100%/all axis now, at 600MM at higher shutter speeds, like 1/3200-1/4000th. Sometimes I wonder if the IS fights the shutter speed then or not.
@ thanks! Also, there is no way to separate the restricted modes between photo and video right? I have a button toggle between manual and C3 or whatever it is in photo mode. For perched shots and toggle to BIF mode. Which works great for me. However , it also means video mode uses the same restricted setting and now I can’t access half my video setups unless I disable the menu option. But if I disable it and go back to photo mode, now when I toggle my button, it cycles through like 5-6 modes instead of 2. I wish Canon would keep photo vs video settings apart in that case.
Some good stuff appreciate it! One issue you haven’t mentioned is when a new subject appears suddenly in front of the intended subject and r5 mii refuses to focus. Not taking a big difference in distance. Any ideas?
Jan. I set up my R7 using your 2 button auto focus suggestions and have been thinking about adding a 3rd button for turning on subject tracking in situations where eye auto focus may not work. Do you have any suggestions on what the best way is to do this? I tried mapping the subject tracking button to my DOF but it seems subject either on or off does not work well, and I think it interrupts the eye tracking button setup. Thanks for the help.
Great video, thanks Jan! On another subject: Have you (or anyone) trimmed a video clip on the R5mk2 yet? On my R5mk1 it gives me the option in playback but on the mk5 there is no cut option. Could it be a setting I’m missing? Plse help!
Interesting video. I will definitely try the tip on the R5-2. By the way, what stabil. setting do you like to use on the 100-500 RF? 1, 2 or 3? Especially for BIF.
HI. Great channel. I am very sad with my R7. I changed all the features but I can not find that kind of sharp. I also find high noise with some isos and also I find that even when camera is focusing the eye, dof is before the body. I changed to your settings but same result. I am using an adapeter of canon from ef lenses. 24-105 f4 L. I have compares images from my old 5d mark 2 and my ricoh gr3 and it seems that this camera has a problem. I am not only speaking about subjects in movement, also portraits, etc... Seeing you images I can see when the eye or hair is in focus but here i can not find it...
@jan_wegener Hi. I have the camera only 3 days. First day I was shooting to my kids and I found that is not easy to find where is the focus and the part of the image that is sharp. The other days i was shooting to pets,, dogs, cats and also birds. When I see the pictures in the computer i miss that sharpness. I took also photos to static objects and compared with my canon 5d mark 2, i can see clearly the focus area and the edge, lines and contrast where the focus is but the same area is horrible with the r7. In the pictures with dogs playing its seem that there are more detail but not sharp, in the grass close to the dogs when the red focus point is in the dog. Thanks
I have the r5 and I shoot eagles by me. There are a lot of times I’ll have shots and when they fly in front of trees the focus is gone. I should turn stop focus search off and that will help?
Canon R5 MKll - Today i shoot flying birds (Geese and Swans) on the Manuel +1 setting, and it worked better than Auto! More sharp shots and the eye focus point was like glue. Even with threes behind.
I hope this works because I'm frustrated with some of the results my R5 has given me, I miss quite a lot even after following instructions on youtube content providers
You really need to work with two back button AF and get accustomed to constantly use one and the other. Eye detect is great when it gets it but often time it does not (eye too small in the frame, not enough color contrast, etc.). Point AF will allow you to help it by prefocusing close to target. Also point AF will give you a good plan B with static subjects or when there are several subjects in the frame and you want to select one in particular. So it is not all about settings, a lot has to do with field craft.
Turning the sensitivity up on the R5 Mark II is reminiscent of kids with ADHD where doctors recommend actually giving them more caffeine to calm them down! Counterintuitive, but it does work.
I am a Sony user, would like to see your setting for the Sony Cameras A1
Please make one for the Z8/Z9
Nikon Z9 & Z8 has poor AF compared to Sony and Canon bodies. In fact they are consistently inconsistent in their AF accuracy especially while tracking. Quite sad considering that 3D AF in Nikon DSLRs were quite good
I sold my Nikon for canon only for the frustrating AF. Pros and cons but AF is priority for me. I tried everything for my Nikon, gave up. I’m happy now!
@@baredesigns1 there’s literally 2 canon bodies with better AF (photo/video) than Z8/9 and 2 Sony bodies. Those were released very recently and are much newer than Nikons 3+ year old tech. And still it’s close. If you can’t get the shot from the top of those three brands, it’s you not the camera.
@@livejames9374 So true. ha ha
@@baredesigns1 I have Canon, Sony and Nikon. Nikon hasn't poor AF. In fact it's great! And I can prove it!
YES, YES please give us a Sony video, specifically the A9ii and A1 please!!
And 7R5 too please.
Please make a video for sony A1 II
I have R6mkII and R7.
Great video with your wise recommandations. I had more or less the same setup as other than I modify case 2 rather than case 1 as you have.
Thanks Jan, you always have the best advice for us photographers :)
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it.
Please make a Sony a1 version of this.
Jan - thanks for taking the time to produce another really helpful technical video - much appreciated by an R7 / R5 user! I've been relying on your set-up advice and getting very encouraging results.
I'm glad you're finding the setup advice helpful!
Jan, thank you greatly for this video. I've been doing photography seriously for the last 6/7 months or so, getting ok results. After watching this video last night and changing some settings, I took some of my best photos today of a kestrel over here in the UK, thanks to your case settings advice. Thank you brother 👌👍📷
That’s amazing to hear, glad I could help
Great hints Jan 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Any hints for Nikons Z7II as I’ve got this and love taking bird shots.
Hi, I love watching your videos. I shoot with a Nikon z6II, I would love to see a video on how best to tweak the autofocus for Nikon and also how to customise a second button for autofocus on the Nikon.
Love this type of vid! Would love to see one on Sony A1 II or newer Sony that has AI autofocus. Thank you!!
Your tweaks for the R5 Mk ii are spot on Jan! I mainly shoot very different subjects to you, but after much experimenting when I first got the camera, I settled on pretty much those settings as my "go to" ones for motor racing. In particular, I've found that having the AF set to responsive is very effective in initially locking on and holding focus on suddenly appearing and rapidly approaching cars.
That's great to hear that the tweaks work well for a different subject matter!
Thank you, Jan! I can't wait to sit with my R5 II and go through these settings. Happy Holidays!
I have an older Sony. I’d love to hear what you suggest.
Great video, I am personally a Nikon user and would love to see this style of video for Nikon Z9, Z8, etc! Thanks again, Jan.
Great info Jan, thanks. I’ve set up all your tips on my R7 😊
Hope they work well for you!
Thanks for the great tips, Jan. I just got an R3 and set it up. Ordered your setup guide now to double check everything. Cheers & Happy Holidays!
Dear Jan, another well done Video Instruction in a easy to understand and to adapt manner. Thanks it whas very helpfull and saved me a lot of time. 🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Another excellent tutorial on settings, just checked, only had to tweak a couple as I am set up from your first R5 tutorial, I rely totally on these settings and have found them faultless and extremely helpful, can't afford to upgrade yet but am pretty happy with the original R5, thanks heaps Jan.
That's great to hear!
Great vid, I am loving the advice, I am new to mirrorless and have recently bought a R5 ii and on a very steep learning curve so any help is very much appreciated, between yourself and your friend Duade (great guy) I am learning.
Thank you for these tweaks on the autofocus. I was also having troubles with the focus point jumping all around, and your tweaks appear to be working.
Glad you're finding those tweaks helpful!
Thanks Jan, a really useful video. I have an R7 and have had some frustrating moments with my AF especially with BIF. Looking forward to testing your suggestions. Have a good Christmas 😊
I’m glad you found it helpful, good luck with the testing!
Excellent review of the key focus tweaks Jan. Best wishes for the Holiday Season!
Thanks so much and the same to you!
Thanks Jan, really helpful as I'm an R7 shooter so I can see these changes helping me to nail even more in focus shots🙂
I went out yesterday to test your AF Settings recommendation, Auto +1. I was photographing small songbirds in the brush, perfect subject and environment to put the camera to the test. To say I was shocked is an understatement. It felt like I was using a different camera. This is the stickiest the AF has been particularly on very small songbirds. Eye AF did a much better job acquiring those small eyes even in trees, densely packed with branches where the AF normally struggles. I haven't tried this with birds in flight yet but so far, success! My theory is the Auto +1 setting puts the new Digic Accelerator with AI learning into hyperdrive. I also just purchased your Photoshop Master Class. Keep up the great work Jan!
Glad it’s working well for you! I was just as shocked as you!
I really liked this video. I found it interesting to see some of the options on the other Canon cameras! I think it’s easy to set up the camera and forget to fine tune these over time. R5 shooter. I hike and shoot whatever I find, so my setup is more general, with 3 back button auto focus. One for animal eye tracking, one for spot and 1 preset for quick action and a wider focus area. What I haven’t figured out is where I could set a button to change my autofocus points easily on the fly. I use the dof button from moving in and out of crop mode. I’ve tried the control ring on the lens which will toggle through the options, but as soon as I touch any back button to engage that zone, it goes to its programming. I’m probably missing something basic.
MFN button or do you use that to switch to video?
@@jan_wegener I use that to switch to video, which you showed me and is great. I’m hard pressed to give up my 3 bbf setttings. When I use the lens ring, I can cycle through the options,but as soon as I hit any of my 3 bbf options, it overrides the new choice with the button programming. So even when I change zones, I think I still have to focus before hitting the shutter, right?
Jan, HI... explain why at the 7 minute mark you were using Spot focus, would eye detect be a better choice ?
at the 7 min mark I am setting up the AF responsiveness?
Thanks Jan. Very helpful especially for owners of both "old" and "new" AF cameras.
Glad it was helpful!
Yes, please make a video for Sony a1
可以直接去問 Sony. 這人主要是用 Canon, 未必咁熟悉 Sony.
Sony 妳要 try different settings yourself.
Thanks Jan. I took lots of notes.. Also the Tern chicks are out at the Nobbies on Phillip Island. Daily visits from our camera club members
When I was there this year, they seemed to be further down the hill and not as close
Great review of Canon AF settings. Look forward to my weekend marsh visit to see the impacts! Happy Holidays Jan!
let us know how you go
Regards the A7, earlier this year I saw a link to a Canon paper that discussed AF at high frame rates - using the maximum frame rate causes a voltage drop which means less power to drive the lens AF motors. I am guessing this is a problem for all camera manufacturers.
I also understand that in the evolution of the EOS 5D series various updates tinkered with the power management, splitting it between AF power to the lens and other camera functions - and I would guess that this is why with the R5 you do not get all functions if you use older legacy batteries.
With the beefier batteries in the R1 (or 1Dx range) this is less likely an issue.
I have read that the smaller pixels on the R7 means less light for the DPAF to function accurately. Also, the slower readout speed of the APS-C R7 sensor directly affects the R7 too. Like Jan said, Canon CPS have advised me to drop the FPS to enable more accurate AF performance (this time though the gear is a R3 and older mark 1 EF 500mm prime). I can confirm that dropping from H+ to H resulted in slightly improved AF performance with that combination.
I also remember an older interview with Chuck Westfall of Canon USA who indicated that the bigger batteries of the 1 series cameras produced more current that enabled those cameras to drive the big super telephotos AF systems more accurately. I am guessing that this also rings true with the modern MLCs and the consumer units that have the smaller batteries with lower amperage delivery.
Any new year discount Jan on your lightroom turorial 😃
Don't have any planned atm. I usually only do one at launch and then not anymore, so everyone pays the same price and no one gets upsets if it goes on sale suddenly :)
And it's already great value :)
You can get on my email list in case something changes
Great stuff as always Jan..................and by all means do one of these for Sony!! I'm always happy to learn stuff I've not yet figured out 🙂
thanks mate
Thanks Jan, but what about Nikon AF, especially in the new Z50 II? Thank you and Happy Christmas holidays
Jan fantastic work over the years you are a man I look up to and appreciate all the great content you give to us all. Hoping for your master class videos for Christmas I have dropped plenty of hints lol . Happy holidays mate to you and yours, and continued success for the New Year 🥂 Warm regards from Stuart Perth W.A
Cheers Stuart! And thanks for the support, I appreciate it.
As always, a very good and informative video mate. Did a few tweeks on my camera, while looking at the video hehe.
Wishing you and yours a great holiday, and looking forward to your next video.
Cheers, Bjoern.🦘🦜🦩🎄📸
Thanks Jan, I enjoy my R7,but from the day I bought it I've been waiting for the R7II, and hopefully this will have a faster sensor -scan, along with the R5II auto focus and pre-trigger. A Sony -like 'increase frame rate' with button control would be useful.
Merci pour toutes ces explications et précisions ☺️
Thank's for all yours super videos!! Please make one for all Nikon Z Cameras please! For the Z6III !! Thank you and have a nice christmas day!
Another great video Jan! Thanks so much. You are the best!
I'm glad you like it!
Thanks Jan, interesting new insight regarding the R5ii AF servo character ! Certainly will try this next time ! Sounds a bit like inverse logic .. but Japanese English and negations are always a tricky cocktail .. soo just maybe they intended to use a pos value to calm it down 😛
The new R7 trick I'll pass on to my wife and my colleague !
hehe, who knows!
how many different areas are there in Australia for birding - I know they are far apart but I am thinking what to look at if I want to maximize a trip for birding - thanks for your great videos
Countless really. There aren’t many lodges or anything like that that feed birds so it’s harder to plan
What would you personally use if it was between the Nikon Z8+Z 800mm Pf f 6.3 vs. Canon EOS R1+Rf 200-800?For wildlife.
Oh yeah, please for Nikon, too! Great job!
Will you get an a1ii so you can do setup videos for that camera as well or no?
I will do one, just working on a. couple things
@ thank you!!!
Can't wait for your verification of the R5 MII new solution. I face the same issues as you so I am VERY interested in this new solution.
Another excellent video with useful content. You should have many more followers.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
jan my main question is whats up with the focus box expanding or moving around when in spot mode? i had some luck with the r5ii but i actually sent it back to canon to get checked because the focus jumps off of my subject and focusses on the background 75% of the time. the settings you suggest are great tho especially for the r5! thanks!
If you are in spot without tracking it won’t do that (lock icon)
this must be a new feature with the r5ii. my old r5 allows me to spot focus on lets say a great blue herons head if thats where the spot is and then i can easily use eye af to lock on the subjects eye. with the r5ii my camera was hitting the blue herons back even if my spot was exactly on the birds head.
@@erichance6148it is
Love your work Jan. R5mkii shooter here. Like with my R5, I have played with every AF case setting on my R5ii.
Using the precaptue and 30fps is addictive shooting bif taking off, and landing and dragonflys in flight.using the RF 100-500
On my R5mkii, I currently have the AF case on Manual, with both sliders set on max.
With the sliders @ mid, the AF simply does not track fast enough for birds taking of towards me, nor does it stay on fragonflys making fast movements. With the AF sliders on max,
Yes, @ max, the AFcan be a bit jumpy, and jump of the eye after a few seconds, but I have progammed one of the button to instanty return the AF to centre in any AF mode. Thus, if the AF jumps of the eye, I can return it with a tap. And the AF starts again from that centre point and locks on to the closes eye - for a few seconds. If I am waiting a minute for a perched bird to take off, I just tap my AF to centre button every few seconds and it stays there.
I learned all of this after analysing many 30fps sequences where only the first few frames were in focus with the zliders on mid or to the left. Then I tried sensitivity and tracking on max, and it works - the only challenge left now is keeping the subject in frame.
Great video! Please include a similar one for Nikon
Will watch the video later. Hope it'll help me fix my problem:
On my actual camera's for wildife, R7 and R5, if I hold the back button focus ( eyeAF, servo, animals), I sometimes lose focus when I start shooting in H/H+ after 3-4 pictures.
Thanks Jan. I'm having a lot of trouble with my new RF200-800 (kind of like what I've seen to be AF pulsing with the Sigma 150-600c, R3 body). My 25 year old mark 1 EF 500mm prime currently easily outperforms the new lens in terms of AF accuracy and consistency and the new lens has been a massive disappointment for me. Been talking to Duade about it and he's suggested a few things testing wise, which I will do. I wonder if some of these AF changes will work (I have the case set to auto for my R3, which has worked very well with the older EF lens). I don't know if I've got a dud RF200-800, or it's user error or not.
Great Video, like always . I learn so much from your videos
Great video!! Is it good for the old R5?
and if it's not, can you do one for the old R5?
Thanks!
Yes and I did 😉
@jan_wegener
Thanks!😊
Great stuff Jan. I notice some cameras or lenses have a manual+autofocus setting which I have found useful. Would that obviate the last electronic MF setting if it was available. I often wondered why more lenses or cameras did not have this feature.
You mean the switch on the lens?
@@jan_wegener Yes, the switch on the lens, but I have a Sony RX10 bridge camera which has a switch on the camera and the more expensive Sonys have a camera switch. But I think all big lenses should have it. The big Sigma I used to use had it and I found it really useful. But I see on your video on assigning the focus to a back button sort of makes it unnecessary.
Always something to learn......thank you
Very interesting! I will try the one for R5 II and see how it goes!
I have been experimenting with lens IS as well... still not sure if, its best to leave entirely OFF, or only Panning, or if can use 100%/all axis now, at 600MM at higher shutter speeds, like 1/3200-1/4000th. Sometimes I wonder if the IS fights the shutter speed then or not.
I usually leave it on Mode 1
@ thanks!
Also, there is no way to separate the restricted modes between photo and video right?
I have a button toggle between manual and C3 or whatever it is in photo mode. For perched shots and toggle to BIF mode. Which works great for me. However , it also means video mode uses the same restricted setting and now I can’t access half my video setups unless I disable the menu option.
But if I disable it and go back to photo mode, now when I toggle my button, it cycles through like 5-6 modes instead of 2. I wish Canon would keep photo vs video settings apart in that case.
@@mattli911 yes some of these settings are annoying when they cover both modes
Thanks Jan, great job ❤
Vielen Dank. Einige interessante Tips zur Einstellung des AF!❤
Jan I don't think you have a setup guide for the z9 or z8 after the bird eye detection was enabled...can you update these videos too?
I think I did a video for the Z8
Some good stuff appreciate it! One issue you haven’t mentioned is when a new subject appears suddenly in front of the intended subject and r5 mii refuses to focus. Not taking a big difference in distance. Any ideas?
do you want it to stay on your subject or go on the new one?
@ a new one.
Thanks, very helpful as always.
Sir..Can you please suggest for Fuji XH2S autofocusing settings?
I am a Fuji user...Please
Jan. I set up my R7 using your 2 button auto focus suggestions and have been thinking about adding a 3rd button for turning on subject tracking in situations where eye auto focus may not work. Do you have any suggestions on what the best way is to do this? I tried mapping the subject tracking button to my DOF but it seems subject either on or off does not work well, and I think it interrupts the eye tracking button setup. Thanks for the help.
haven;t set it up with that so not entirely sure what works best
Great video, thanks Jan!
On another subject: Have you (or anyone) trimmed a video clip on the R5mk2 yet? On my R5mk1 it gives me the option in playback but on the mk5 there is no cut option. Could it be a setting I’m missing? Plse help!
might depend on the format or file type you're filming in?
@ Thanks Jan. Could possibly be! Will experiment with different formats! Thanks again for your videos. Find them really useful and practical!
Please make a video for sony A1 II, Thks
Great info Jan. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
Interesting video. I will definitely try the tip on the R5-2. By the way, what stabil. setting do you like to use on the 100-500 RF? 1, 2 or 3? Especially for BIF.
Always 1
even when panning a flying bird you use mode 1? @@jan_wegener
HI. Great channel.
I am very sad with my R7. I changed all the features but I can not find that kind of sharp. I also find high noise with some isos and also I find that even when camera is focusing the eye, dof is before the body. I changed to your settings but same result. I am using an adapeter of canon from ef lenses. 24-105 f4 L.
I have compares images from my old 5d mark 2 and my ricoh gr3 and it seems that this camera has a problem.
I am not only speaking about subjects in movement, also portraits, etc...
Seeing you images I can see when the eye or hair is in focus but here i can not find it...
Was subjects are you mainly shooting with the 24-105?
@jan_wegener Hi. I have the camera only 3 days. First day I was shooting to my kids and I found that is not easy to find where is the focus and the part of the image that is sharp.
The other days i was shooting to pets,, dogs, cats and also birds.
When I see the pictures in the computer i miss that sharpness. I took also photos to static objects and compared with my canon 5d mark 2, i can see clearly the focus area and the edge, lines and contrast where the focus is but the same area is horrible with the r7.
In the pictures with dogs playing its seem that there are more detail but not sharp, in the grass close to the dogs when the red focus point is in the dog.
Thanks
@@alfonsoojedagarcia484do you have a filter on it?
Excellent video Jan.
Thanks!
Please make one for Nikon Z 8 and Z 9. Thanks
Do you need to drop the FPS on R7 if you are shooting electronic first curtain?
I don't think so. It's mainly the 30fps ES that cause trouble
Excellent advice Jan!
Glad you think so!
Please make a similar video for the nikon z8 and z9
Great video can you do one for nikon please
Great info. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes, please a video for Nikon!
Can you please do one for Sony A1? :D
Nikon Z8/Z9 please that great.
Love to have a version of this for Sony a7Rv and 200-600
Can you do one for Nikon D810 please
Dear Jan - does Electronic fulltime MF works for all lenses ? Asking as we are trying force the AF motor against it.
I believe so
I have the r5 and I shoot eagles by me. There are a lot of times I’ll have shots and when they fly in front of trees the focus is gone. I should turn stop focus search off and that will help?
you can try. in theory at least it should help
Canon R5 MKll - Today i shoot flying birds (Geese and Swans) on the Manuel +1 setting, and it worked better than Auto! More sharp shots and the eye focus point was like glue. Even with threes behind.
thanks for sharing!
Please make one for Sony
Please make one for Sony, thanks.
Please please make a video about sonys autofocus
I hope this works because I'm frustrated with some of the results my R5 has given me, I miss quite a lot even after following instructions on youtube content providers
You really need to work with two back button AF and get accustomed to constantly use one and the other. Eye detect is great when it gets it but often time it does not (eye too small in the frame, not enough color contrast, etc.). Point AF will allow you to help it by prefocusing close to target. Also point AF will give you a good plan B with static subjects or when there are several subjects in the frame and you want to select one in particular. So it is not all about settings, a lot has to do with field craft.
@MrMartin246 well said
@@MrMartin246 I do have 2 BBF set one is eye detect, It looks like I'm not very good
@ with practice it will come
Make one for Nikon Z9
Muito bommmm a dublagem automática ajudou muito para mim que não falo inglês obrigado 👏👏👏
I own a Sony A7iv and Tamron 150 -500mm
Turning the sensitivity up on the R5 Mark II is reminiscent of kids with ADHD where doctors recommend actually giving them more caffeine to calm them down! Counterintuitive, but it does work.
Hehe yes, seems that way!
Video for Nikon z8 n z9
Pls do this for Sony a1
Great video, just one little comment: „eventually“ is a false friend for us German native speakers. Best regards!
I need one for Nikon Z8
Nikon Z9 please!