My grip was part of a package deal. Hardly ever used it till I was doing some longer time lapses last night. (Perseid meteor shower) One small thing I noticed is the rubber and plastic connection covers you take off before putting the grip and camera together. They fit together and there is a space inside the grip that is I believe made to store them so they don't get lost. The space right at the end of the EN EL 15 battery.
I bought a Mieke aftermarket grip as it came with a remote. Loved the thing until the gear system malfunctioned and I literally couldn't remove the grip from the body. In the end I had to do a complete tear down of the grip and nearly damaged the camera in the process. The grip itself was destroyed. Extremely cheap innards and it's the better of the after market I've seen. That experience is not unique to me and that alone makes it impossible for me to recommend anything but the original Nikon. The aftermarket unit I used on my Canon 7D was superb but that was 10 years ago. That said Ritz has a deal on the MB-D16 (100 off) which makes it the same as a used version on Keh. Just ordered mine.
Hello, and thank you for that detailed video (including the mini-seminar on batteries)! My question is: If the order of the batteries is the grip's first, when the grip's battery is out, does the D750 battery (the battery in the body of the camera) goes on seamessly (for instance, with no problem while shooting video)? Also, in the same scenario just mentioned, when the D750 battery goes on, can I then change the battery in the grip while shooting video, or do I need to turn the camera off?
@@TekyTimbo Changing the one out of two batteries while shooting video, is an amazing feature! That praktikal means 6h of video shooting (only limited by the max allowed record time, and the GB of the sd cards of course), before all 3 batteries die on you. Thank you so much for your answer! 😀
@@TekyTimboI just bought a used original grip. The problem I'm facing is... The batteries do Not switch over from the grip to the body while shooting video. Instead the camera just hangs while giving an ERR message. And this only goes away once I have physically Removed both batteries. As I'm a first time user, please help me resolve the issue. Am very upset because the very reason I bought the grip for (seamless extented battery life) is failing. Thanks in advance.
@@SheriarIrani I no longer have the D750 or grip so I'm afraid I can't help you but try posting on one of the Nikon forums (DP Review, Fred Miranda, Nikon Cafe, etc.) there are lots of knowledgeable folks who should be able to assist. Good luck!
Thanks for the review! During your usage of the MB-D16, did you experience any contact issues between the grip and the body? I just upgraded from a D600 to the 750 and one of the problems I had was when I used the Phottix v-grip on the d600 was that the green light kept turning on when I lifted or shook the camera and I think it was because of the contact point.
Tyler Ng Haven't encountered that so far but did run into that on a few occasions with the DSTE grips. However, that's usually when I haven't bothered adding the additional tightening by pressing down on the grip. Otherwise, once fully tightened, I don't encounter these issues with the DSTE's either. Of course, you need to be careful about over-tightening as well since that will create added stress to the grip's bolt.
When the switch is forward it's on. Just like how the on/off switch when ON (unlocked). They are both pointed forward when on. So they are the same in that way
+619RobdoG Well that's one way to look at it, but I suppose it's how each individual's brain is wired (I focused on the rotation). In the end, there is no right/wrong, it's just a matter of preference and I've stated mine. ^_^
It was a great review on the grip, especially on the approach you recommend which is the cost effective vs. performance type of batteries to use. May be you can include the life span of the battery. As I believe after 1 year, the original Li will not have the initial capacity 1900mAH. It might degrade to certain percentage. Same for other rechargeable batteries like NiMH.
Lim Chew How Thx! I plan on doing a comparo of EN-EL15 batteries in the future and that will indeed be one of the tests which is to show the capacity for each of the batteries (ie: OEM vs. clones). I just need to jerryrig wiring so that I can conduct such tests with my discharger. Will also compare how the capacity is vs. aged and new batteries. So be sure to sub (if you haven't) and stay tuned for the vid. I don't have exact time frame given my schedule but will alert you when it's ready.
I assume you're asking about the D750 but regardless, neither it nor the MB-D16 feature a 10-pin connector. For D750, you can use your smartphone (or any Android/iOS device) to connect to the built-in WiFi so you can remotely trigger the shutter.
Does the lithium ion battery need to be installed in the body of the d750 for the AA batteries to work in the Grip?I have purchased a Neewer BG-2RIR Professional Vertical Battery Grip and can't seem to get the camera to work if I only have the 6-AA installed in grip.Look forward to hearing from anyone.
+Ron Vincent No, the point of the grip is that it should allow the camera to to draw power from either source and not require that a Li-Ion be installed in the body at all times. It could be that you've specified the camera to draw from the body first. Check setting D12 and make sure it's set to: Use MB-D16 batteries first. If that's already set then make sure the grip is securely connected to the body (no slack at all).
I don't own the D810 but I think it'll come down to your personal preference in handling and controls given it's a bit different between the two. Since you shoot street photography, I'd imagine it couldn't hurt to have something lighter and less bulky plus the tilting screen will come in handy for some candid shots (and for some landscape shots too). So unless you need the 1/8000 shutter speed (can be offset by a ND filter) or the 36MP, I'd recommend the D750 over the D810 but of course, best if you can test them both in store to see if one handles better than the other for your shooting style/needs.
turboBB73 I have made my decision to buy a D750,Its almost the same as D810 (except the AA and other things which dont matter much ) Cost is the big difference here as i can invest in Glass. Thanks
+AviatorHD No doubt you have got your D750... its a fantastic camera... low light performance is exceptional, and High ISO NR cleans up any noise that may start to creep in shadow areas. You can also do later in LR too. I would recommend to everyone, unless you need the higher megapixel count of the D810... otherwise D750 is the one to go for. Hands down
I understand that 9 years have passed, but still - if your MB-D16 is made of plastic, you do not have the original Nikon MB-D16, it's a copy. The original Nikon MB-D16 are made of magnesium alloy only. This is the main difference from third-party battery grips.
Great info in your review! I bought a D750 grip used, but I'm a bit concerned about the quality of the grip. My old D700 grip felt solid as a rock and was heavy too, which to me seemed to confirm that it's made out of Magnesium Alloy. The D750 grip feels much lighter and frankly, very cheap and plasticky. Does your grip also feel this way? Light, cheap, almost flimsy? As well, the shutter button on my grip is clicky, rather than squishy like on my D750 body. The body shutter seems very well damped and clean, whereas the grip shutter is more chunky and clicks instead squishes. It's hard to describe, but it's like the difference between a consumer camera shutter and a pro shutter; the consumer ones are clicky. Does your grip also do this? I'm worried I bought a fake grip if these are not the case. Thanks so much!
+Antonio M. It's a little difficult but yes, you can still use the grip in that manner. Depending on your tripod mount, a L - bracket might help improve usage of the grip in portrait orientation (something like: www.promediagear.com/assets/images/PLNMBD16-009.jpg).
Thanks so much for your reply. I'll take good note of it. I knew about the existence of those L brackets, but somehow thought that it could be a way to do it without it. Thanks seriously, really helpful.
I bought what was a supposed "OEM Original" for a fairly high price from an U.S. based e-bay account, and ended up with a fake. I requested they pay for the return and was told to just destroy it, and was sent a refund. "Ok, free cheap grip!" I thought. Well, couple issues, the fakes are plastic, not magnesium, so it feels and sounds cheap as sin compared to the D750 body. Secondly, no weather proofing around the battery compartment, or behind the multi directional key like on the OEM. Third, the multi directional key isn't exactly straight. Last, and most annoying, is the fake is draining battery from BOTH the internal and grip batteries even while turned off. The horror stories below of them breaking while attached is just another reason. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on the real deal. There are plenty of nice used ones available, I managed to get a mint condition one for less than half of the new sticker price.
This will always be debated ad nauseam. It all boils down to whether one is risk averse or not. While I'm comfortable with using 3rd party equipment, I can certainly understand those who'd avoid it like a plague. You gave good advice on getting a used grip, also, from time to time, Best Buy has this really great deal for 30% off three or more accessories. I recently got the MB-D18 that way. Thanks for chiming in!
+turboBB73 Just did an event using new D750 and Vello brand battery grip... all went well until camera froze half way through. Completely unresponsive. It is definitely an issue with the grip, as have been using camera for 2 weeks without any issue. Removed grip and pulled out camera battery, put battery back in... working fine again. I hope it is a once off, but am not confident. Will put through intensive test over coming days, see how it holds out... otherwise exchange time!
Thanks for your post, I wonder if any chance it's a semi-loose connection between the grip and body? I still haven't wrapped up my review on the Neewer grip but hope to have that in the coming weeks.
+turboBB73 Possible... the grip is pretty well made for a 3rd party product, and it was screwed on tight... no movement. But your right, if the terminal connection is solid it could cause the issue. All controls on the grip seem to be functioning well atm. will keep you posted
I always thought that the original nikon grip is made completely out of metal at the inside to make it really stable?! I'm using a cheap third party grip on my D7000 and this also is made out ot plastic with a metal strip at the inside wich btw is wider than the metal strip in this MD-D16!! So why should I spend so much more money on this original Nikon grip if it is built the same or in my case even worse than my cheap grip?!
As conveyed in this review, those were my thoughts exactly. The only uncertainty is the quality of the materials which I can't know for sure but objectively, after using DSTE's grip, I feel they are very close as compared to Nikon's grip. Only reason I purchased this was so I can have first-hand experience with an original grip thus not be biased when I conduct 3rd party grip reviews (in which case I plan on getting some for the D750, stay tuned...). Most common problems I've read re: 3rd party grips either involve the grip mounting wheel breaking off/coming loose or high battery drain issues. Again, I've not personally experienced either but in my D7100 review, I have a link to a fellow on Nikon Cafe who had two DSTE grips fail.
one thing i just notices is that "up, down, left, right" joystick on the grip is pretty high, all the way by AE-L button, compared to D750's body...does that have any effect on ergonomics of the grip? is it easier to use or no efffect or does it have opposite effect? Just wondering, since I saw some clone D16 grips (Vertax D16) that have that button located lower on the grip, across the LCD, to "mimic" the ergonomics of the joystick as on the D750's body
***** The size of one's hands would come in to play here; I've medium-sized hands and don't really have an issue with operation or ergonomics. However, on the aftermarket grip I just got (Neewer brand - review to come), the joystick is very easy to depress thus it's easy to accidentally push down while trying to operate the directional buttons instead. This was the same problem on DSTE's grips as well. Best to see if you can try the OEM and aftermarket ones at a local store before committing to a purchase.
In the words of a certain cast member on TWD "Carl!, Carl!" and yet another certain animated ogre celebrity "Really, really!". All kidding aside, it would've been faster for you to have simply scrolled through to scan the on-camera portion of the review (~10min worth). ^_^ There's also a TOC in the description as well as comments so you can easily navigate to sections of interest.
Denis Hamel You're welcome! I don't have one of DSTE's wireless remote but do have a generic infrared one which I can include in a future video re: the D750's WiFi features. Stay tuned...
+Peter XYZ Yup, as I said, it's still about risk management. If your profession doesn't require the extra sturdiness why spend more than necessary? I'd say it's safe to say that the majority of us would never expose our gear to conditions that would reach the limits of after-market plastic strengths let alone the Nikon magnesium ones.
+turboBB73 You make perfect sense in your advice. I know people who will baby their things & it will look as good as factory New In Box. I would try to baby my things but I do take the camera into "interesting situations". I'd evaluated the cost for a grip for the D7000. 30.00 (approximately) for aftermarket or 70 (approximately) for a used Nikon. For me, a used Nikon grip make better sense especially since my camera is less-than-current with less-than-current price on accessories.
+Peter XYZ In that case yeah, you can certainly benefit from the extra-strength and quality the original provides. A little over double isn't a bad price to pay for that but 5-6 times the cost is a little hard to swallow (ie: new after-market vs. new Nikon). Enjoy your grip and Happy New Year! ^_^
Am I the only one who is concerned that you have to remove the grip to access one of the two batteries. This is unfortunately a complete dealbreaker for me 😔Man... I have an old D90 with grip and both fit into the grip.
I can totally relate. Can never figure why they went away from that design to the current one. Maybe Canon patented it and thus they can longer use the old design?
Great work. It is ages since I don't see such a well documented video. Thanks!
You're welcome and thank you for the kinds words and your support!
My grip was part of a package deal. Hardly ever used it till I was doing some longer time lapses last night. (Perseid meteor shower) One small thing I noticed is the rubber and plastic connection covers you take off before putting the grip and camera together. They fit together and there is a space inside the grip that is I believe made to store them so they don't get lost. The space right at the end of the EN EL 15 battery.
TOC
=======
PACKAGING @ ACCESSORIES - 0:45
DESIGN & FEATURES - 1:30
~ Quality - 2:14
~ Quick comparo of mounting points b/w D750 vs. D600 - 4:36
~ Installation - 5:27
~ Functionality test - 6:15
~ Battery arrangement - 12:47
~ D11 explained - 16:02
BATTERY CONSIDERATIONS - 18:26
~ How many shots can each battery take? - 20:03
~~ Calculating available power - 20:27
~~~ EN-EL15 - 20:34
~~~ Energizer E91 - 21:17
~~~ Eneloop Pro - 22:16
~~~ Energizer L91 - 22:38
~~ Cost considerations - 23:01
VS. THE CLONE... - 26:21
INITIAL CONCLUSION - 28:48
~Weak points of clones - 29:39
I bought a Mieke aftermarket grip as it came with a remote. Loved the thing until the gear system malfunctioned and I literally couldn't remove the grip from the body. In the end I had to do a complete tear down of the grip and nearly damaged the camera in the process. The grip itself was destroyed. Extremely cheap innards and it's the better of the after market I've seen. That experience is not unique to me and that alone makes it impossible for me to recommend anything but the original Nikon. The aftermarket unit I used on my Canon 7D was superb but that was 10 years ago. That said Ritz has a deal on the MB-D16 (100 off) which makes it the same as a used version on Keh. Just ordered mine.
35 minute review. And not one single plain front view of what the grip looks like on the camera. Wow.
For a review made in 2014, this is very good quality.
Hello, and thank you for that detailed video (including the mini-seminar on batteries)! My question is: If the order of the batteries is the grip's first, when the grip's battery is out, does the D750 battery (the battery in the body of the camera) goes on seamessly (for instance, with no problem while shooting video)? Also, in the same scenario just mentioned, when the D750 battery goes on, can I then change the battery in the grip while shooting video, or do I need to turn the camera off?
The answer is yes to both, it'll transition seamlessly between the EL-15 in the body as well as the one in the grip.
@@TekyTimbo Changing the one out of two batteries while shooting video, is an amazing feature! That praktikal means 6h of video shooting (only limited by the max allowed record time, and the GB of the sd cards of course), before all 3 batteries die on you. Thank you so much for your answer! 😀
@@TekyTimboI just bought a used original grip. The problem I'm facing is... The batteries do Not switch over from the grip to the body while shooting video. Instead the camera just hangs while giving an ERR message. And this only goes away once I have physically Removed both batteries.
As I'm a first time user, please help me resolve the issue. Am very upset because the very reason I bought the grip for (seamless extented battery life) is failing. Thanks in advance.
@@SheriarIrani I no longer have the D750 or grip so I'm afraid I can't help you but try posting on one of the Nikon forums (DP Review, Fred Miranda, Nikon Cafe, etc.) there are lots of knowledgeable folks who should be able to assist. Good luck!
Thanks for the review! During your usage of the MB-D16, did you experience any contact issues between the grip and the body? I just upgraded from a D600 to the 750 and one of the problems I had was when I used the Phottix v-grip on the d600 was that the green light kept turning on when I lifted or shook the camera and I think it was because of the contact point.
Tyler Ng Haven't encountered that so far but did run into that on a few occasions with the DSTE grips. However, that's usually when I haven't bothered adding the additional tightening by pressing down on the grip. Otherwise, once fully tightened, I don't encounter these issues with the DSTE's either. Of course, you need to be careful about over-tightening as well since that will create added stress to the grip's bolt.
When the switch is forward it's on. Just like how the on/off switch when ON (unlocked). They are both pointed forward when on. So they are the same in that way
+619RobdoG Well that's one way to look at it, but I suppose it's how each individual's brain is wired (I focused on the rotation). In the end, there is no right/wrong, it's just a matter of preference and I've stated mine. ^_^
Well done. Very indept!!
It was a great review on the grip, especially on the approach you recommend which is the cost effective vs. performance type of batteries to use.
May be you can include the life span of the battery. As I believe after 1 year, the original Li will not have the initial capacity 1900mAH. It might degrade to certain percentage. Same for other rechargeable batteries like NiMH.
Lim Chew How Thx! I plan on doing a comparo of EN-EL15 batteries in the future and that will indeed be one of the tests which is to show the capacity for each of the batteries (ie: OEM vs. clones). I just need to jerryrig wiring so that I can conduct such tests with my discharger. Will also compare how the capacity is vs. aged and new batteries. So be sure to sub (if you haven't) and stay tuned for the vid. I don't have exact time frame given my schedule but will alert you when it's ready.
Can we add a wireless cable release, as i cannot seem to see if it has a 10-pin connector like the D300s for example...
I assume you're asking about the D750 but regardless, neither it nor the MB-D16 feature a 10-pin connector. For D750, you can use your smartphone (or any Android/iOS device) to connect to the built-in WiFi so you can remotely trigger the shutter.
Self-disclosure: there are 46 Dislikes on this video as of Sep 2023. I will edit/update this intermittently.
nice detail review..............dont understand why Nikon makes these grips so expensive............
Does the lithium ion battery need to be installed in the body of the d750 for the AA batteries to work in the Grip?I have purchased a Neewer BG-2RIR Professional Vertical Battery Grip and can't seem to get the camera to work if I only have the 6-AA installed in grip.Look forward to hearing from anyone.
+Ron Vincent No, the point of the grip is that it should allow the camera to to draw power from either source and not require that a Li-Ion be installed in the body at all times. It could be that you've specified the camera to draw from the body first. Check setting D12 and make sure it's set to: Use MB-D16 batteries first. If that's already set then make sure the grip is securely connected to the body (no slack at all).
Excellent review - thanks
Excellent review, bravo!!!!
Stavros. A Thx!
Anyone know what the weight of this is with and without a standard D750 battery? Thanks.
It's 8.8oz (~250g)
I m switching from Canon to nikon,
M mostly into Street ,Portrait and Landscape ,Which one should i buy D750 vs D810?
I don't own the D810 but I think it'll come down to your personal preference in handling and controls given it's a bit different between the two. Since you shoot street photography, I'd imagine it couldn't hurt to have something lighter and less bulky plus the tilting screen will come in handy for some candid shots (and for some landscape shots too). So unless you need the 1/8000 shutter speed (can be offset by a ND filter) or the 36MP, I'd recommend the D750 over the D810 but of course, best if you can test them both in store to see if one handles better than the other for your shooting style/needs.
turboBB73
I have made my decision to buy a D750,Its almost the same as D810 (except the AA and other things which dont matter much )
Cost is the big difference here as i can invest in Glass.
Thanks
AviatorHD Great choice & happy shooting!
+AviatorHD No doubt you have got your D750... its a fantastic camera... low light performance is exceptional, and High ISO NR cleans up any noise that may start to creep in shadow areas. You can also do later in LR too. I would recommend to everyone, unless you need the higher megapixel count of the D810... otherwise D750 is the one to go for. Hands down
I totally agree. It's seriously satisfied my G.A.S. itch and it's been great for videography as well especially with the hinged screen.
I understand that 9 years have passed, but still - if your MB-D16 is made of plastic, you do not have the original Nikon MB-D16, it's a copy. The original Nikon MB-D16 are made of magnesium alloy only. This is the main difference from third-party battery grips.
Great info in your review!
I bought a D750 grip used, but I'm a bit concerned about the quality of the grip. My old D700 grip felt solid as a rock and was heavy too, which to me seemed to confirm that it's made out of Magnesium Alloy. The D750 grip feels much lighter and frankly, very cheap and plasticky. Does your grip also feel this way? Light, cheap, almost flimsy?
As well, the shutter button on my grip is clicky, rather than squishy like on my D750 body. The body shutter seems very well damped and clean, whereas the grip shutter is more chunky and clicks instead squishes. It's hard to describe, but it's like the difference between a consumer camera shutter and a pro shutter; the consumer ones are clicky. Does your grip also do this?
I'm worried I bought a fake grip if these are not the case.
Thanks so much!
Yes, I confirmed mine was fake.
I'm out $200 and I can't report the crime, but I guess I've learned to do my homework now.
Is it not possible to adjust the grip on a tripod in the vertical shot position?... Thanks.
+Antonio M. It's a little difficult but yes, you can still use the grip in that manner. Depending on your tripod mount, a L - bracket might help improve usage of the grip in portrait orientation (something like: www.promediagear.com/assets/images/PLNMBD16-009.jpg).
Thanks so much for your reply. I'll take good note of it. I knew about the existence of those L brackets, but somehow thought that it could be a way to do it without it. Thanks seriously, really helpful.
+Antonio M. You're welcome!
hi there after you have mounted the Nikon MB-D16 what setting do you have to set in menu
There are many options in the menu, which one are you referring to? Battery? AF-ON? or...?
which one would you recommend
Battery? AF-ON? or...? battery grip Battery? AF-ON? or.
Nice review! Ty
I bought what was a supposed "OEM Original" for a fairly high price from an U.S. based e-bay account, and ended up with a fake. I requested they pay for the return and was told to just destroy it, and was sent a refund. "Ok, free cheap grip!" I thought. Well, couple issues, the fakes are plastic, not magnesium, so it feels and sounds cheap as sin compared to the D750 body. Secondly, no weather proofing around the battery compartment, or behind the multi directional key like on the OEM. Third, the multi directional key isn't exactly straight. Last, and most annoying, is the fake is draining battery from BOTH the internal and grip batteries even while turned off. The horror stories below of them breaking while attached is just another reason. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on the real deal. There are plenty of nice used ones available, I managed to get a mint condition one for less than half of the new sticker price.
This will always be debated ad nauseam. It all boils down to whether one is risk averse or not. While I'm comfortable with using 3rd party equipment, I can certainly understand those who'd avoid it like a plague. You gave good advice on getting a used grip, also, from time to time, Best Buy has this really great deal for 30% off three or more accessories. I recently got the MB-D18 that way. Thanks for chiming in!
If I get an additional battery, can I place one in the body and the other in the grip?
Yes, and you can specify in the menu's which battery to use first.
Yes....I watched your video in segments and got to that part after I posted the comment. Thanks for th vid.
By installing the battery grip does the fps increase by 2fps?
Sadly it doesn't.
Thanks for for your elaborated explanation.
You're welcome!
I got it and it made a huge difference.
My D750 shooting experiences shared here: forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/3532/d750-shoots-wedding-album-pics-a-non-pros-review-long-image-heavy
+turboBB73 Just did an event using new D750 and Vello brand battery grip... all went well until camera froze half way through. Completely unresponsive. It is definitely an issue with the grip, as have been using camera for 2 weeks without any issue. Removed grip and pulled out camera battery, put battery back in... working fine again. I hope it is a once off, but am not confident. Will put through intensive test over coming days, see how it holds out... otherwise exchange time!
Thanks for your post, I wonder if any chance it's a semi-loose connection between the grip and body? I still haven't wrapped up my review on the Neewer grip but hope to have that in the coming weeks.
+turboBB73 Possible... the grip is pretty well made for a 3rd party product, and it was screwed on tight... no movement. But your right, if the terminal connection is solid it could cause the issue. All controls on the grip seem to be functioning well atm.
will keep you posted
I always thought that the original nikon grip is made completely out of metal at the inside to make it really stable?! I'm using a cheap third party grip on my D7000 and this also is made out ot plastic with a metal strip at the inside wich btw is wider than the metal strip in this MD-D16!! So why should I spend so much more money on this original Nikon grip if it is built the same or in my case even worse than my cheap grip?!
As conveyed in this review, those were my thoughts exactly. The only uncertainty is the quality of the materials which I can't know for sure but objectively, after using DSTE's grip, I feel they are very close as compared to Nikon's grip. Only reason I purchased this was so I can have first-hand experience with an original grip thus not be biased when I conduct 3rd party grip reviews (in which case I plan on getting some for the D750, stay tuned...). Most common problems I've read re: 3rd party grips either involve the grip mounting wheel breaking off/coming loose or high battery drain issues. Again, I've not personally experienced either but in my D7100 review, I have a link to a fellow on Nikon Cafe who had two DSTE grips fail.
one thing i just notices is that "up, down, left, right" joystick on the grip is pretty high, all the way by AE-L button, compared to D750's body...does that have any effect on ergonomics of the grip? is it easier to use or no efffect or does it have opposite effect? Just wondering, since I saw some clone D16 grips (Vertax D16) that have that button located lower on the grip, across the LCD, to "mimic" the ergonomics of the joystick as on the D750's body
***** The size of one's hands would come in to play here; I've medium-sized hands and don't really have an issue with operation or ergonomics. However, on the aftermarket grip I just got (Neewer brand - review to come), the joystick is very easy to depress thus it's easy to accidentally push down while trying to operate the directional buttons instead. This was the same problem on DSTE's grips as well. Best to see if you can try the OEM and aftermarket ones at a local store before committing to a purchase.
really? 35 minutes? Can we see it on the camera please.....?
In the words of a certain cast member on TWD "Carl!, Carl!" and yet another certain animated ogre celebrity "Really, really!". All kidding aside, it would've been faster for you to have simply scrolled through to scan the on-camera portion of the review (~10min worth). ^_^ There's also a TOC in the description as well as comments so you can easily navigate to sections of interest.
great review many thanks
You're welcome!
turboBB73 Hi ! Next time , would you talk about setting of the wireless remote control who come with the DSTE grips. And Thanks for this video
Denis Hamel You're welcome! I don't have one of DSTE's wireless remote but do have a generic infrared one which I can include in a future video re: the D750's WiFi features. Stay tuned...
nice detailed review... very much helpfull
Thx! Glad you found it useful. Cheers
Original Nikon grip is magnesium body, right? Cost of magnesium vs plastic aftermarket. Risk management is right.
+Peter XYZ Yup, as I said, it's still about risk management. If your profession doesn't require the extra sturdiness why spend more than necessary? I'd say it's safe to say that the majority of us would never expose our gear to conditions that would reach the limits of after-market plastic strengths let alone the Nikon magnesium ones.
+turboBB73 You make perfect sense in your advice. I know people who will baby their things & it will look as good as factory New In Box. I would try to baby my things but I do take the camera into "interesting situations".
I'd evaluated the cost for a grip for the D7000. 30.00 (approximately) for aftermarket or 70 (approximately) for a used Nikon. For me, a used Nikon grip make better sense especially since my camera is less-than-current with less-than-current price on accessories.
+Peter XYZ In that case yeah, you can certainly benefit from the extra-strength and quality the original provides. A little over double isn't a bad price to pay for that but 5-6 times the cost is a little hard to swallow (ie: new after-market vs. new Nikon). Enjoy your grip and Happy New Year! ^_^
I am using the MBD16 for only a month now and I am very satisfied with the product! Very recomanded!!
Thank You!
You're welcome and Happy New Year!
Happy New Year!
Am I the only one who is concerned that you have to remove the grip to access one of the two batteries. This is unfortunately a complete dealbreaker for me 😔Man... I have an old D90 with grip and both fit into the grip.
I can totally relate. Can never figure why they went away from that design to the current one. Maybe Canon patented it and thus they can longer use the old design?
Where’s the setting for if you mix your alkaline and nickel metal hydrides? Slackers!
You never showed how to detach the battery grip
lol yeah go figure, after all that... :D