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Dual extrusion guide: Cura, Simplify3D, Ideamaker & Slic3r
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2018
- After reviewing the Geeetech A10M 3D printer, I was excited to get my head around how to setup and slice for dual extrusion / dual colour. This video is a guide to the hardware, issues and solutions involved with printing this way.
I'm comfortable with Simplify3D, but not so much with Cura, Slic3r and Ideamaker. There is no point requesting slicer profiles because I don't have them. Please don't roast me if there is a better way than what I have showed here for them. The idea is to get people started on the dual extrusion journey.
The A10M is proving to be a tricky beast to dial in, but I'm making ground and will make a video with my tips in the near future. I will also have an upcoming video with guides and firmware for adding 3Dtouch/BLtouch and enabling the filament runout sensors.
Please note I covered LCD driven colour mixing in my review: • Geeetech A10M dual ext...
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#3dprinting #dualextrusion #geeetecha10m
Yep, they sure were excited with your models, and rightly so. The undeniable appreciation is a great pat on the back isn't it.
Great video. Just an additional tip, in Simplify 3D you can also hold in shift while hitting center and arrange and it will align to origin as well. Just a slightly quicker way than going through the menus.
Awesome thanks mate just got myself a Flashforge creator pro 2 so this is so helpful. Your channel is amazing you always seem to have the videos I need lol. Thanks again
Once again great video thank you for your time . Using cura on my tenlong tl d3 pro worked a treat
Thanks, this is very informative. I just got my A20M up and running. I try to print a Thermal calibration tower with simplify3D. I got the temperatur steps right with separate Processes but S3D drives me crazy each time i want to edit a process; it not remembers the last extruder choise i made. It always preselect Mixing extruder but i want left or right separate for one print. I cannot understand how to use this Mixing extruder correct.
Another cool thing would be not to use a priming pillar but to do colorchanges in the infill inside.
I think this should be revisited with IDEX considering the advances since 2018!
Nice tips! Thank you for the info. I have no experience with dual extrusion so far, so it was helpful.
"Between the white and the gold" 10/10 for dropping that in there, hahaha!
Saved me hours of looking for the dupicate switch lol
very good about showing the models in the slic3r. thanks
I have an IDEX, and really wanted to use it for dissolvable supports. Marlin doesn't quite get IDEX right with the print heads running in the wrong direction, homing in the wrong direction or just running into each other. we won't talk about trying to do a 3D allignment between the nozzles.
Good job! Great knowledge of these slicers. I'm just starting and learned a lot (only Cura for now though). I had no idea I could join them with Shift. Thanks!
In Cura could you make a video on how to configure dual extruders .... g-code ....x & y off sets . Cheers
Any chance of you doing a video of duel print design, struggling with how to separate one stl into parts for duel colour printing.
Quick question, i got an IDEW and i am printing like 4 or 5 different coor for customers. My trick is adding 1 layer for each color. So if the first layer is blue, and the secund one yellow I will print both pieces in blue and them the 2nd extruder will put an additional layer in yellow on the 2nd piece. It works but...
Is it not a problem to print 2 different pièces on same layer with 2 different color with an idex ?
Thank you for your work ! it really helps !
You missed the better 3rd type of dual extruders, IDEX (independent dual extruders), But this video is 2 years old so they probably weren't around as much back then.
A have an A10M and am trying to print a dual extrusion print but and having issues with the nozzle dropping big blobs on the model as it is trying to colour change. It just sits over the model and oozes a blob of filament over it, when it should really be moving over to the side of the print instead. I am using Cura as my slicer...is there a setting in my slicer that will change this or is it a firmware, g-code machine setting issue?
Love the video but I wanted to know if you have a video about how to set up a dual extruder so that if you are printing a large object that needs 2 rolls of filament, it will continue the second roll when the first one runs out?
I am installing a BMG X2 with mosquito hot ends, what if the zoffset is slightly different between the 2 nozzles?
im new to 3d printing, found your videos a great help, i have the A10M and have a coulpe of questions, 1. which software would you recomend for a new user? 2. would you mind shareing your settings that you used please.
How to 3d print with a main color/material. And a second color/material as a support material.
Can I use two qualities of filiment?
My printer has 3 extruders. Do you know how to setup 3 extruders on ideaMaker?
Hey. I am hoping you can help me get the right direction here. I am trying 2 color prints on a Raise 3D E2 using Ideamaker. I can get it to print 2 colors, but what I am seeing is little splotches of one of the colors on part of the other color. For example, I am printing a bee that has both ends yellow and the middle black. I am getting black splotches on the yellow. I have tried a wipe wall, tower, played with retractions, speed and temps, but to no avail. I have been looking for resources to get advice, but have found very few who can or are willing to help. Do you have any advice? Thanks!
@Teaching Tech thanks for the overview! Overall, which slicer is the most mature for the A10M & multi-filament, in your opinion?
I don't have an unbiased opinion because I've almost exclusively used S3d. Interface wise, Ideamaker impressed me the most when making this, Slic3r the least.
So what if the model doesn’t come in two pieces/would be too complex to separate these out ?
Can I print like that on single extruder printer? I have FLSun SR and I use Cura slicer
were the settings for cura actually tested because I'm unable to get dual extrusion to work in cura it just skips over the second extruder instructions completely and continues with the first one
So, are we limited to two-part models? GeetA10M....yellow and blue DO make green! My problem is the A10M crashes the nozzle into the build at 33mm height, getting progressively worse to 60mm, by which time, it has knocked the model off base.
My hint: get plenty of white filament, but also get a roll of YELLOW....it mixes to make other colors....orange, green,blue....
What if I just want to change the color at a specific height on a print in Cura?
Is there a way to do a dual color print without the prime tower? What I mean is I have a two color model but I want the blend between the two models. I don't want the stark color change between the two. Just ordered a A10M trying to learn the ropes before it gets here. Thanks for the video very comprehensive.
The prime tower can be used tucked in the slicer software. Can work just how you describe without it.
Awesome, thanks for the info. I figured as much, should be fun to play with when the A10M shows up!
I get the dual extruder single nozzle for two separate colors, but, I want dual extruders for printing in one color with and having scaffold material for printing overhangs. Will a single nozzle work for that? Thanks!
I have a Creality CR-X and was wondering if you know of a way to make multiple colors with the printer using the same model i.e. tell it at layer 10 to switch to extruder #2? I know in extensions you can change filament, but I was hoping there would be an easier way. Thanks, Great Videos!
have you tested colormix plugin in cura ? I have A10M - Marlin 2+, no results
Great video, great info , but 3 adverts is a bit to much , spoiled it a lot , don't know why I got 3 , there is normally just the 1 at the start.
Hi Petet, thanks for watching. Just for the record, I have no control over the amount or type of ads. Sorry they were so obtrusive.
@@TeachingTech I didn't think you would have chosen to put extra ad's in . Personally I think , you do a great service to the 3d printing communitie , and although the ad's were annoying, it would not stop me from watching your uploads. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to help others .
It doesn’t even look like white... it’s more grey and black.. I’m using simplify and am wondering how to optimize to stop bleeding colour and have Black and true white print.
after implementing all tips in both this video en the one setting up the FW, I am experiencing issues. My printer heats up, homes and starts to print with the first color, ut just as it gets to the whipe block, the printer resets. Have used different slicers, all do the same. I can use the gradient printing tool via the lcd display, but printing sliced true dual color prints seems impossible... Any help would be appreciated
My printer is running bugfix marlin 2.0, skr main board tmc 2208 stepper drivers...
thx guys
Thanks Michael, very thorough. Have you made a video about manually swapping filament using pauses at layer heights? I haven't but am interested in it. Cheers, JAYTEE
Hi Jaytee, I've just been looking into advanced pause and m600, so I will cover it at some stage.
@@TeachingTech Great. I'll be playing with that before my Palette Pro 2 arrives in Jan
Hey Michael, could you make a video of IDEX dual extrusion with two different nozzle sizes? 0.2mm nozzle walls and 1mm infill?
I think this may work, 0.2mm walls do 4 layers x 0.1mm layer height and with the 0.8mm nozzle do 0.4mm layer height. Perhaps there may be gaps left or blobs. I'd also like to see a Rat Rig V-Core 4 with IDEX.
Hi, I have a standard printer with 2 extruders and 2 nozzles. I use Cura for slicing and Marlin firmware and execute it with Repetier host. I have been printing only with the 1. extruder until now and all fine, but when experimenting with the PVA on the 2. nozzle i find that the moving speed when changing from one to the other is like crawling ..... so slowly. I have not been able to find any setting where to change the speed for that. Do you have any idea where this setting is ?
Great video. Once again you are a lifesaver. Any ideal how to configure for 3 nozzles?
On my Simplify 3d, extruder #1 is the left. Do I have it set differently perhaps?
Hello,
Do you have a Cura profile for the A10M that you would like to share ? maybe machine type and g-code to.
if not for Cura than maybe Simplify3D
Just whatever you are currently using for your A10M, Thanks
I am having a very difficult time getting proper prints.
It doesn't help that I have sever under extrusion, E-steps came at 340, I have it at 440 and still getting massive under extrusion.
another question, Do you know where I can get spare nozzles for the A10M ?
Thanks
I'm afraid I can't help with either. Never used Cura with the A10M beyond this video. Haven't looked into nozzles yet but the Geeetech employees in the Facebook groups are attentive and helpful.
Merging in Cura seems so easy but what if the merger moves one of the models what do I then do? I can't find anything in support or on youtube for aligning models before merger so they will stay on top of each other
Thanks for sharing, is there a dual extrusion setup for the Enders 3. I’m also wanting to look at an all metal hot end, hopefully nylon and cheap pla for support. Any advice greatly appreciated! Cheers
Creality crx is your product in terms of creality. All metal hot end is on the cards.
dual extrusion is hard to set up but on my toolchanger once i set it up all I do is to click "send gcode" and wait for the print :) but dual extrusion adds a lot of print time to the model on my end ;-;
While watching the parte that you've designed I had an idea and would like to know if you think it is possible?
What if you choose a third collor for the object? Like wheels color 1 body collor 2 and windshield collor 3 (wich would be tha mix of collor 1 and 2!!!
Thinking like this wouldnt it be possible to print withount the prime tower?!?
Using the third part as the prime tower is a nice idea. It might be hard to get precise. Prusa are developing software to have the colour change in the infill which is very cool.
hi, its old post.. but can you help me... i need help to setup sovo sv04 on prusa slicer. thanks
First I had to adjust the video speed to 0.75. Ahhh that's easier to understand :)
But thanks for the video!
Hello, thank you very much for this informative video. Unfortunately you have moved things to two extruders and 2 nozzles. It would have been interesting for me to see this once with a Y system (2 Extruder-1 Nozzle). I have been trying to develop a clean solution here for quite some time and I am looking for a solution to the contrary. Maybe you have the time to pay attention to this fan community ;-). All the best!
Have you looked at what statasys has done with the uPrint? It goes to a priming location, extrudes a small length into a tub, then wipes the nozzle. No prime rower necessary. Though it is using 2 nozzles, it's interesting to see that they only use one extruder motor
How would we calibrate the esteps on the geared extruders for a 2 in to 1 hotend? Just like normal?
Awesome video. Thank you
Guys I have problem .. when I print it is take long break till start print with another nozzle . I use cura . And not because of heating nozzle . Can any one help me
What is a good duel hotend printer to get started with at a reasonable price?
Thanks for the Quick down to the point video !
Great content and well put together.
What is the issue you are having with you A10M ?
Just ran my first print on my A10M, printed the Lizard that came on the card, it cam out flawless, but for some reason with only few mins left the print broke free from the plate. No idea why or what happened as I wasn't around when it did.
I have no idea what it was sliced with or the profile they used. Anyone have any idea ?
Anyone have any base profiles for the A10M ?
for now I'm just going to use a similar profile that I use for my CR-10S
Here is a summary of my issues: ua-cam.com/video/8o--HmfZ57I/v-deo.html
Another great video! Did you solve the stringing issue? :)
Is Marlin the default for the A10M? Or did you have to update the firmware?
Marlin is the default. It is on pretty much every 3D printer these days.
@@TeachingTech Thanks. I've had it a week now. Athorbot didn't use Marlin, one of the reasons I sent it back. It couldn't run anything other than Cura 1.5 which was nuts. Buy cheap buy twice.
hello, I watch your videos from time to time, and I thought maybe you could answer a question. I want to print two seperate files on cura, Im using 4.0 , and for example, I load a small file into the box, (I have lets say an Ender 3) then how do I load another from a different file onto the same print bed? I was for example printing one of those surprise eggs on thingaverse, and obviously had plenty of room to print the egg, and the contents on the same 220 print bed,, every time I hit the file pictograph a the top left of cura to open a different file, it just kinda starts a whole new print, etc,, any thoughts? thanks
have any experience on color or filament mixing? I am using cura.
Hi mate, question do you have the Gcodes for Tevo tarantula please, using Cura
Could you use prusa version of slic3r for any printer ? It works amazing for multiple material
With some profile tweaking I would assume so. I have no experience trying it however.
@@TeachingTech I have the MMU so I use slic3r for it, it's so easy it would help people if it would work. I also do most of my slicing in S3d so I appreciate you going into that, I haven't seen that anywhere else its new in 4.1. I am going to try to get that working to see if it's as easy as slic3r. thanks for all the work you do.
Thx for this video. This can also be used for 2 Extruders where 1 Extruder prints for example carbon fibre right? To set where you can make it stronger.
Can any of these slicers print an object in a gradient?
Increase your travel speed to like 200 to help with stringing on a10m
Thanks for the tip.
AFAIK it's ideal to have any printer travel speed at it's fastest speed possible, I know in Cura you can set it to some ridiculous number like 9999 and it'll default itself to the highest speed your printer can move. I'm still playing around with settings myself.
By the time I write this I will be 500th
Next, 3d printing using two different materials, to make really good parental ear plugs! lol
Or how to print pink noise generators. Or how to print sound absorbing hallway designs, such as the all metal version of one of those called The Hall of Silence, at The Ontario Science Centre.
You can yell in those and because of the almost 'Z' shape and walls that have tiny divots covering them, its super quiet. Music Jam halls should be designed like that, or home additions for families that have musicians. Talking giant 3d printers making those though! We didn't have the technology for that back in the day, so the parents went with ritalin instead.
Great ideas! I will be attempting multi material soon.
Wow, nice
Thanks for sharing :-)
Are you going to review the GEEETECH A20M?
Can you please do one for the geeetech A10T
Is the A10M good enough to buy instead of an Ender 3?
It needs more experience to fine tune so if you are confident, absolutely.
@@TeachingTech , thanks Michael.
How I can make mi ender 3 pro extrud more? I use idea maker
do you mind sharing your s3d profile for the a10m please?
lol rip headphone users. warning first next time plz =)
At least I turned the volume right down. It's not actually that loud but seems like it because it distorted when recording.
I dont think dual printing will “take off” without a self cleaning mechanism for purging and extruder head cleaning every tool change.
Have printed ninjaflex and colorfabb HT on a Taz 6 with a Flexydually V2 extruder with Simplify 3D. It took 6 months to get something half decent out of it, despite years of experience with the great filaments. A horrible experience in every way, and I strongly advise against it for a serious purpose. Ooze handling, bed and extruder head calibration, extruder inefficiency due to split power and immense extruder weight, the list goes on.
Will this work for an ender 3?
Wil you please install this on ender 3
SLIC3R MIN 8:19sec
yep, you can be proud and just edit your video properly and adjust the audio level.
Otherwise, good video, thank you.
Why don't you concentrate on one thing at a time. Who wants to learn 3 slices at once. 😁 And slow down a bit.🤘
Honestly it would be easier just to paint the print instead of wasting so much filament
Private?
Shouldn't be..?
When I tried to watch it via notification it said video was private... Working now.
-1
I'm sorry, but it looks like you have no experience with dual extrusion at all... :(
1) Slic3r PE / PrusaSlicer is the most powerful MMU/Dual extrusion slicer available on the market.
2) I saw nothing about cooling/ramming the filament, parking position or even preparation for the print.
3) Where is information about the amount + shape of the prime tower/purge block?
4) How/where you have to set up an amount of the filament needed to change the color from one to another if the color is still mixed with another one?
Your videos are good, but they are missing a bunch of knowledge. It's kinda sad. You are a teacher. I expected videos teaching us much more… :|
So it has been a year since you wrote this, where is your video to show what was missing? It's easy tp criticize when you don't do anything yourself
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