I bought exactly the same unit made by "MingHe" about 4-5 (?) years ago. Mine seems to work quite well (for the ~ US$17 I then paid!). It's very much based on the 1996 LC Meter Project and Kit by Neil Heckt (now deceased) of "Almost All Digital Electronics". It is VERY important to recalibrate the 0 value EVERY time you change range. Use a short circuit to calibrate L, and open circuit for C. Hold down "zero" until you see "DATA SAVED". After much investigation I decided that the "AC" markings referred to "use the AC Adaptor" NOT "feed me with AC"! The "9V" is completely spurious.
Yep, I have this thing too - it is quite OK for many things when one needs to be only in the ballpark with the inductance/capacitance (e.g. HAM radio circuit). Most of these components have large tolerances anyways. But I have never noticed that this had actually a battery compartment! D'oh! The USB port is dummy, I believe, only for power. I have always powered this meter from an old Nokia phone charger with a barrel jack soldered on.
I bought the L200A some ten years ago, it was from a SINGLE maker that is somewhat similar in functionality to the el`'cheapo component testers (Mega328 and clones), using the same CPU, and also using the CPU timers to do the measuring, ...but optimised for to L & C. Back then L/C was done with LF and this unit was marketed as using HF for more accurate testing.. It is done with an off-the-shelf box, YES you guessed it right!. I assume he sold the design to Juntek. It is not a great unit, but it is cheap, or was, it is now nearly 2x what it was back when I bought it. There is also the L100A, and of course the component based testers (that this guy had nothing to do with). Sorry, but I did not keep info on who this guy was, but when I had the unit his customer support was outstanding (useful and fast).
Hi Mate, you need to zero the meter if you are using the extension lead as it looks like it has a capacitance of 33pf. The old modems sometimes used ac plug adaptors. Thanks for the content. Cheers Dave.
It would be reasonably easy to reverse the receptacle leads by pressing in the retention tangs, sliding out the crimped terminal with the attached wire, and reinstall in the opposite direction. Probably important if there is a bias voltage supplied to electrolytic or tantalum capacitors.
@@TheDefpom Cool just checking, also I got SUPER lucky and got a Wayne & Kerr Precision Component Analyzer 6425 dirt cheap. It work as treat but was a 110V/60Hz setup. I have switched it over to 220V and from what I can read there is a jumperwire somewhere to also set it for 50Hz but wanted to probe you and your viewers to see if anybody knows where that wire is hiding. It works as is (in fact it works amazingly well) but from what I can read it could be slightly off due to that frequency difference.
A quality piece of equipment made in China by people that just do as they are told and not think and no product checking I do hope it is less than a fiver including postage 😉 P.S> the chinese have never cared about wire colours
Zero again once the leads are in for the cap measurements might fix the slight over-capacitance issue at the begining? I guess it may or not be a bargain depending on the cost, but I'd stick with my DE-5000 too. Like your reviews... First impressions are useful. 👍
Thank you. As a standard bridge, the DE-5000 is really easy to use, but not everyone can afford its price. The LC200A is also a good choice for users who are pursuing cost performance.
I apologize for this. This product came into the market early. In the early days, we were inexperienced. We used public abrasive tools to make this product. The purpose is to provide electronic enthusiasts with cost-effective products. We will also launch new products next year. We are happy to give you new products for testing.
I read it as Junktek at first. That is just one way of setting the initial expectation level for customers.
"Jun" meaning "talented/handsome" is a rather unfortunate Chinese/Japanese name for English speakers! 🙃
I bought exactly the same unit made by "MingHe" about 4-5 (?) years ago. Mine seems to work quite well (for the ~ US$17 I then paid!). It's very much based on the 1996 LC Meter Project and Kit by Neil Heckt (now deceased) of "Almost All Digital Electronics".
It is VERY important to recalibrate the 0 value EVERY time you change range. Use a short circuit to calibrate L, and open circuit for C. Hold down "zero" until you see "DATA SAVED".
After much investigation I decided that the "AC" markings referred to "use the AC Adaptor" NOT "feed me with AC"! The "9V" is completely spurious.
I own the AADE LC meter too, although it doesn’t get much use anymore, it is a pity Neil died, he made some excellent items.
@@TheDefpom Yes indeed he did, and I also use his AADE Filter Design program V4.5, which will still run under the latest WIN 10, despite its age.
Yep, I have this thing too - it is quite OK for many things when one needs to be only in the ballpark with the inductance/capacitance (e.g. HAM radio circuit). Most of these components have large tolerances anyways.
But I have never noticed that this had actually a battery compartment! D'oh! The USB port is dummy, I believe, only for power. I have always powered this meter from an old Nokia phone charger with a barrel jack soldered on.
I bought the L200A some ten years ago, it was from a SINGLE maker that is somewhat similar in functionality to the el`'cheapo component testers (Mega328 and clones), using the same CPU, and also using the CPU timers to do the measuring, ...but optimised for to L & C. Back then L/C was done with LF and this unit was marketed as using HF for more accurate testing.. It is done with an off-the-shelf box, YES you guessed it right!. I assume he sold the design to Juntek. It is not a great unit, but it is cheap, or was, it is now nearly 2x what it was back when I bought it. There is also the L100A, and of course the component based testers (that this guy had nothing to do with). Sorry, but I did not keep info on who this guy was, but when I had the unit his customer support was outstanding (useful and fast).
Thank you for your recognition 10 years ago. We manufactured LC200A 12 years ago, when we were still a studio, we did not establish our own brand.
when measuring the 10uf put a voltmeter on it and see if the +/- is correct
I should do that
Hi Mate, you need to zero the meter if you are using the extension lead as it looks like it has a capacitance of 33pf. The old modems sometimes used ac plug adaptors. Thanks for the content.
Cheers Dave.
The Der EE meter is the best LCR meter for the money. It measures impedance.
You are better off using the c mode on your multimeter than the junktec
It would be reasonably easy to reverse the receptacle leads by pressing in the retention tangs, sliding out the crimped terminal with the attached wire, and reinstall in the opposite direction. Probably important if there is a bias voltage supplied to electrolytic or tantalum capacitors.
Haven't seen one of your live's in a long time. Have they moved, stopped or am I just not getting notifications?
I haven't done one in a little while, it will be a few weeks at least until I can do another one.
@@TheDefpom Cool just checking, also I got SUPER lucky and got a Wayne & Kerr Precision Component Analyzer 6425 dirt cheap. It work as treat but was a 110V/60Hz setup. I have switched it over to 220V and from what I can read there is a jumperwire somewhere to also set it for 50Hz but wanted to probe you and your viewers to see if anybody knows where that wire is hiding. It works as is (in fact it works amazingly well) but from what I can read it could be slightly off due to that frequency difference.
Boss doesn't allow it
The look and feel of the UI seems to be basically the same as a much cheaper ($10) bare board unit I got for quickly identifying SMD capacitors.
Do you have a specific model of the bare board? We can do a video contrast test.
A quality piece of equipment made in China by people that just do as they are told and not think and no product checking I do hope it is less than a fiver including postage 😉 P.S> the chinese have never cared about wire colours
"suntan" capacitor. Is that what you get after it blows up all over you? I feel there must be better ways to get a fake tan lol
Zero again once the leads are in for the cap measurements might fix the slight over-capacitance issue at the begining?
I guess it may or not be a bargain depending on the cost, but I'd stick with my DE-5000 too.
Like your reviews... First impressions are useful. 👍
Thank you. As a standard bridge, the DE-5000 is really easy to use, but not everyone can afford its price. The LC200A is also a good choice for users who are pursuing cost performance.
Junktek?
Well, some people have had a lunch in Chinese restaurant called Fook Hing.
Where are you? I am in this Fook Hing restaurant.
If a vendor cannot pay attention to the labels on the switches, and power jacks, I have little confidence in what is inside the device.
I apologize for this. This product came into the market early. In the early days, we were inexperienced. We used public abrasive tools to make this product. The purpose is to provide electronic enthusiasts with cost-effective products. We will also launch new products next year. We are happy to give you new products for testing.