I’d make it backwards after figuring out how many magnets and they layout of them. Cut grooves to exactly 2x thickness of magnets, push them in, glue a 1/8” or 1/16” veneer on top. You get more material behind magnets for fasteners, and very thin material in front of them for maximum power.
I have that on my old set but with the veneer it broke pretty quickly. I could use a thicker 16th inch veneer but that would be the same thickness as what I have here.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo my previous one is magnetic bar from harbor freight. Every time I put a knife on, that metal on metal sound was pretty bad. I put one 1 layer of packing tape on it and it was fine. My current rental landlord lady does not allow any hole drilled on wall or the outside of cabinets. I can’t use magnetic holder any more.
My mother in law wanted to swap sides in the garage. I was more than happy to oblige. I get a window now and I've cleaned the top of my workbench so now I can take this nifty new lapping plate I've made and restore my plane. I have a lot of apple to get through and some mystery wood.
And once again I actually appreciate how often you post. Imma combat vet n lots of other things n been in some shit but I'm in a rougher spot then ever sitting in my garage n ol James wright has a great wood project(Wich hand woodworking is my therapy but since being sick at home after a mfr accident October in about burnt out) to make wanna plane some wood lol tks
I made a version of this that goes under the cabinet that is over my cutting board. Since I cook with one knife 99% of the time it's always at hand but it's out of the way when I don't need it. I used round magnets so it was easy with a brace. Since it's just the one knife it goes along the length of the wood.
James, The magnet you linked to as the one you wish you used is not a true N52 grade magnet. It is far too weak for the size it is. Next time look at K&J Magnetics that is the site I have been buying magnets from for a while now. I make a lot of magnetic knife boards and depending on the client's needs I will use either N52 magnets that are 2"X1/2"X1/4" or 2"X1/2"X1/2" in a single row. I cut a piece off the face of the wood I am using a take it down to 1/16" and cut off a piece off each end. Then I route out a slot for the magnets and glue them flush with the face of the board. I will then use dowel and glue to reattach the end caps and glue the face back on. Since I use extremely thin Japanese saws to cut everything it makes the seams just about invisible even on highly figured woods and burls.
I am a bit nuerotic about empty counters. The knife block is the last to go. Been trying to decide between magnetic or slotted. This gives magnetic another point. Great video indeed!
The first thing to check is to see how magnetic your knives are. The more stainless they are, the less magnetic. The last thing you want is to bump one of them and have it falling on you.
They turned out very nice!😁 Maybe I would've made the ends somehow have about a 1/2 inch wide solid block of contrasting wood to mount to the cabinet with. But, that's just me.🤷♂️😁
I made mine in oak which used about the same dimension but cut the front off at ⅛-¼ thick on the band saw. I the cut my slot in the main piece using my router for the long the magnets. I then cut a wider track on top to which I glued festool track edge rubber. I then glued them in using epoxy and glued the front to the rear followed by the rubber track. So I only have one line and holds all my kitchen tools. If you want a photo please ask for. K
Pretty beautiful work, James! It looks fantastic there with the knifes! 😃 Just a tip when looking for magnets, look for N52 magnets. They're the strangest available. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I usually prefer to keep the piece I am keeping in the vice. and that means to keep the line on the side I am on I saw off the left edge of the vice. also it keeps the same body mechanic of using a bench hook.
I don't like using magnetic bars for chisels. It magnetize the chisel. And then it causes it to roll around on the bench and run into my files or other things that might be around. But that is just my personal preference.
That looks really nice!!! instead of screwing it to the wall you might have been able to screw a long steel piece to the cabinet and let the magnet hold everything together. You might need even more magnets in order to do it this way though 🙂
That space is actually a little smaller. And because it is going across the grain, they would split almost instantly. Those are only a quarter inch thick. The middle piece may be thinner, but the grain is going lengthwise so if it splits it's not a problem.
What is that gizmo you used to cut the grooves in with? Also, you've got to be pretty strong to cut that oak free hand like that. I'm an older lady that works with wood and definitely not strong enough for that!
That is a Stanley 45 combination plane. Cutting the oak doesn't have as much to do with strength as it does with body mechanics. Even the hardest Australian woods don't take any more strength they just take more endurance because it takes longer.
Yeah, wooden knife blocks are a breeding ground for bacteria and other, less than desirable things. This is a great little project. I'll be renovating our kitchen next year and will be incorporating this into the redesign (or a variation of it). Thanks for the idea.
That's actually a myth. They are not antibacterial. It's commonly touted in many places but not true. Wooden cutting boards hold far more bacteria than their plastic counterparts. They still have to be washed and decontaminated.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo do you have any source for that information? Since i cannot put url's in a comment, search for 'Cutting Boards of Plastic and Wood Contaminated Experimentally with Bacteria' by Nese O Ak et al. for a scientific publication showing that wood is better.
@@pinkerbot wood might be better but they aren't antibacterial. Maybe they have some kind of coating from the factory that is resistant but all such coatings break down over time and cleanings. If you look at fire retardant materials such as NOMEX coveralls used in industrial applications, after so many washings, and it isn't many, the FR coating is negated and the clothing just becomes uncomfortable to wear but provides minimal protection.
James, perhaps this is my own unfounded concern, but have you read of any concern with adverse affects of magnetizing knives and chisels in terms of impacting the metal properties to hold and keep and edge? You know my prized Aldi chisels would be hard to replace.
I have not heard of anything. I do not magnetize my chisels as I do not want them rolling on the bench toward a plane or something else, but I have not had any issues with my chisels.
I noticed you mounted the upper racks fairly high on the cabinet. Is that where you put your special knives that your bride and her kids are allowed to use?
why screws? just screw some disk ND magnets with the opposite polarity and a strip of mild steel the width of your channel and then you can just stick the rack onto that
I strongly recommend mounting these under the upper cabinets. Having a wall of sharp, naked blades is a recipe for disaster. Putting them under the cabinet means that the handle will always be what you grab, it eliminates the possibility of accidentally leaning up against a blade, and forces a single row of knives per section.
I had that in her last house and I really didn't like it because they kept getting hit and knocked down. Having them on the side of the cabinet means that there's less moving around up there unless it's going to knock them off. So far I really liked it because you can actually see what you're grabbing every time.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Interesting. We've never knocked a knife down or even out of alignment. I wonder if it's because they're under a corner cabinet where the space below isn't used frequently.
Google gives me: Stanley 15-666 7-3/4-Inch Agressive Tooth Folding Pocket Saw, With a combination of 'aggressive' and 'pocket saw' I'd only use it if i was wearing serious groin protection and cut resistant underwear. 
I’d make it backwards after figuring out how many magnets and they layout of them. Cut grooves to exactly 2x thickness of magnets, push them in, glue a 1/8” or 1/16” veneer on top. You get more material behind magnets for fasteners, and very thin material in front of them for maximum power.
I have that on my old set but with the veneer it broke pretty quickly. I could use a thicker 16th inch veneer but that would be the same thickness as what I have here.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo my previous one is magnetic bar from harbor freight. Every time I put a knife on, that metal on metal sound was pretty bad. I put one 1 layer of packing tape on it and it was fine. My current rental landlord lady does not allow any hole drilled on wall or the outside of cabinets. I can’t use magnetic holder any more.
"chamfers, they are what separates us from the animals"
Iconic. I would buy this t-shirt.
Very nice. My wife wouldn't agree to knives on show. But this type of design on some pull out drawer slides would work too. Great video.
I made an undercabinet knife block that pivots down on some hinges, it hides the knives and does take up any counter space
My mother in law wanted to swap sides in the garage. I was more than happy to oblige. I get a window now and I've cleaned the top of my workbench so now I can take this nifty new lapping plate I've made and restore my plane. I have a lot of apple to get through and some mystery wood.
Very cool! Thank you!
Using your Stanley no666 to exorcise the taint of power tools, love it 😂
And once again I actually appreciate how often you post. Imma combat vet n lots of other things n been in some shit but I'm in a rougher spot then ever sitting in my garage n ol James wright has a great wood project(Wich hand woodworking is my therapy but since being sick at home after a mfr accident October in about burnt out) to make wanna plane some wood lol tks
Ok! This is really cool!!!
I made a version of this that goes under the cabinet that is over my cutting board. Since I cook with one knife 99% of the time it's always at hand but it's out of the way when I don't need it. I used round magnets so it was easy with a brace. Since it's just the one knife it goes along the length of the wood.
really nice result
James,
The magnet you linked to as the one you wish you used is not a true N52 grade magnet. It is far too weak for the size it is. Next time look at K&J Magnetics that is the site I have been buying magnets from for a while now. I make a lot of magnetic knife boards and depending on the client's needs I will use either N52 magnets that are 2"X1/2"X1/4" or 2"X1/2"X1/2" in a single row. I cut a piece off the face of the wood I am using a take it down to 1/16" and cut off a piece off each end. Then I route out a slot for the magnets and glue them flush with the face of the board. I will then use dowel and glue to reattach the end caps and glue the face back on. Since I use extremely thin Japanese saws to cut everything it makes the seams just about invisible even on highly figured woods and burls.
I am a bit nuerotic about empty counters. The knife block is the last to go. Been trying to decide between magnetic or slotted. This gives magnetic another point. Great video indeed!
The first thing to check is to see how magnetic your knives are. The more stainless they are, the less magnetic. The last thing you want is to bump one of them and have it falling on you.
@@benhatcher2603 Great safety tip.
They turned out very nice!😁 Maybe I would've made the ends somehow have about a 1/2 inch wide solid block of contrasting wood to mount to the cabinet with. But, that's just me.🤷♂️😁
Looking sharp! Great project.
I made mine in oak which used about the same dimension but cut the front off at ⅛-¼ thick on the band saw. I the cut my slot in the main piece using my router for the long the magnets. I then cut a wider track on top to which I glued festool track edge rubber. I then glued them in using epoxy and glued the front to the rear followed by the rubber track. So I only have one line and holds all my kitchen tools. If you want a photo please ask for. K
Looking sharp!
Pretty beautiful work, James! It looks fantastic there with the knifes! 😃
Just a tip when looking for magnets, look for N52 magnets. They're the strangest available. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Right on. These ones are N52
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Oh! 😮
“A little bit of fun to do on the weekend”. Or maybe two weekends if you need more magnets! 😉😉
Why do you saw on the left hand side of the vice so you have to reach over to catch the offcut? Wouldn't it be better on the other side?
I usually prefer to keep the piece I am keeping in the vice. and that means to keep the line on the side I am on I saw off the left edge of the vice. also it keeps the same body mechanic of using a bench hook.
You and this "100 yr old quarter sawn white oak"!!! 😂
Hey! That's cool! Looks cool! Is cool! Way to go! 👍✔☺✌
Good vid James. I wonder about something like this for my chisels?
I use magnetic bars for some of my tools an it would be fun to embed them in wood.
I don't like using magnetic bars for chisels. It magnetize the chisel. And then it causes it to roll around on the bench and run into my files or other things that might be around. But that is just my personal preference.
...I never thought of that. Ok, a nice rack then. 😉😁👍
That looks really nice!!! instead of screwing it to the wall you might have been able to screw a long steel piece to the cabinet and let the magnet hold everything together. You might need even more magnets in order to do it this way though 🙂
Unfortunately, it wouldn't hold through the 1-in thickness of cabinet wall. That would be a serious magnet to hold that long.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I was thinking of a steel piece on the outside face of the cabinet that would be hidden by the knife holder.
Since you epoxied in the purpleheart, why not drive screws into that where there’s a bit more meat for the screw to hold onto?
That space is actually a little smaller. And because it is going across the grain, they would split almost instantly. Those are only a quarter inch thick. The middle piece may be thinner, but the grain is going lengthwise so if it splits it's not a problem.
Nice little project. One question: why epoxy and not your go-to Elmer's?
Because we were on a shooting schedule. 5 minute epoxy is much faster and we can finish it in one day.
What is that gizmo you used to cut the grooves in with? Also, you've got to be pretty strong to cut that oak free hand like that. I'm an older lady that works with wood and definitely not strong enough for that!
That is a Stanley 45 combination plane. Cutting the oak doesn't have as much to do with strength as it does with body mechanics. Even the hardest Australian woods don't take any more strength they just take more endurance because it takes longer.
Very nice, thank you. @@WoodByWrightHowTo
Yeah, wooden knife blocks are a breeding ground for bacteria and other, less than desirable things. This is a great little project. I'll be renovating our kitchen next year and will be incorporating this into the redesign (or a variation of it). Thanks for the idea.
That is actually not true - wooden cutting boards and blocks are naturally antibacterial...
That's actually a myth. They are not antibacterial. It's commonly touted in many places but not true. Wooden cutting boards hold far more bacteria than their plastic counterparts. They still have to be washed and decontaminated.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo do you have any source for that information? Since i cannot put url's in a comment, search for 'Cutting Boards of Plastic and Wood Contaminated Experimentally with Bacteria' by Nese O Ak et al. for a scientific publication showing that wood is better.
@@pinkerbot wood might be better but they aren't antibacterial. Maybe they have some kind of coating from the factory that is resistant but all such coatings break down over time and cleanings. If you look at fire retardant materials such as NOMEX coveralls used in industrial applications, after so many washings, and it isn't many, the FR coating is negated and the clothing just becomes uncomfortable to wear but provides minimal protection.
James, perhaps this is my own unfounded concern, but have you read of any concern with adverse affects of magnetizing knives and chisels in terms of impacting the metal properties to hold and keep and edge? You know my prized Aldi chisels would be hard to replace.
I have not heard of anything. I do not magnetize my chisels as I do not want them rolling on the bench toward a plane or something else, but I have not had any issues with my chisels.
I noticed you mounted the upper racks fairly high on the cabinet. Is that where you put your special knives that your bride and her kids are allowed to use?
How did you know? It's nice being the tallest one in the house.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo My wife is taller than me so I hide things low in the cabinets.
Is that a Blondihacks reference @7:57 ? Or is that a common phrase? Either way, I like it :)
I have heard it a few places. Not sure where it started.
Is that a new tenon saw? 😁
A sash saw from Jared Greene
@@WoodByWrightHowTo that thing is sexy
Comment down below!
Is it just me, or has the Demon Yellow Brace been making a lot more appearances of late?
why screws? just screw some disk ND magnets with the opposite polarity and a strip of mild steel the width of your channel and then you can just stick the rack onto that
It would not hold through the full 1-in of cabinet wall.
I strongly recommend mounting these under the upper cabinets. Having a wall of sharp, naked blades is a recipe for disaster. Putting them under the cabinet means that the handle will always be what you grab, it eliminates the possibility of accidentally leaning up against a blade, and forces a single row of knives per section.
The single row bit is important so you don't stab yourself when grabbing a knife on a higher level.
I had that in her last house and I really didn't like it because they kept getting hit and knocked down. Having them on the side of the cabinet means that there's less moving around up there unless it's going to knock them off. So far I really liked it because you can actually see what you're grabbing every time.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Interesting. We've never knocked a knife down or even out of alignment. I wonder if it's because they're under a corner cabinet where the space below isn't used frequently.
it has more to the fact that I have 3 kids currently learning to cook. things get moved around a lot on the countertop.
I have been looking for these… I actually thought about buying one, but they all seem so ugly..
First!
Mounting the blocks that close together seems dangerous to me...
They're far enough apart that there's no interaction between them.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo i was not worried about the knives touching, but your hands when you reach for a knife! 😉
Google gives me: Stanley 15-666 7-3/4-Inch Agressive Tooth Folding Pocket Saw,
With a combination of 'aggressive' and 'pocket saw' I'd only use it if i was wearing serious groin protection and cut resistant underwear.