Just got done doing all of this to my 2012 S4. Very insightful and a GREAT reference guide. Can’t thank you guys/gals enough for these videos, parts selection, quick shipping, and great customer support. This is how a company should be operated.
@@scottcasey4400 Holy moly, shop i brought it to quoted total price for only PCV replacment for $1800, so it was little over $600 in parts and 1200 in labor ($250/hr)
When reinstalling your lower intakes, hold the flaps partly open or they will be stick shut and give codes . And after they are seated, actuate the flaps and make sure they move freely
They kinda gloss over the part at 15:22 where you pull the coolant pipe but it had me stuck for a while. There's two screws on the bracket in the back. The lower one is kind of unreachable but don't mess with that one. Just push the pipe out of the bracket sideways and then push it back and it comes right out :)
Not seeing that bracket but what im reading from others is that pipe is connected to a flexible brakcet/pipe and can be pushed back. Is that accurate ? I think ive spent more time on this pipe than replacing the waterpump and thermostat.
On mine someone previously replaced the torx with a hex screw. The bracket is bent back enough to get the screw in without going through the bracket. It just runs right through the pipe. A ratcheting box wrench made quick work of it. Really good hack imo.
I've spent an hour trying to get the pipe out. I could remove the T30 at the back just using a T30 on a 5 inch extension. But that pipe just won't come out of the hole up at the front by the thermostat. If anyone has a suggestion, please put it here. Thx.
@@ijdad99 I'm stuck on the same pipe Called it quits for the night and will reevaluate. If I figure it out tomorrow I'll post a reply. Let me know if you succeed.
For anyone stuck at 15:00, what I did was grab a regular Allen key set and find one that fit the T30 well enough to crack the torque on the bolt. After that I was able to unthread it by hand or just using a T30 screwdriver bit with my hand. Good luck all!
I used a T30 bit and a 1/4" fine tooth ratcheting box end wrench. Just enough clearance to get in there and get it out. Now I am stuck on removing the damn coolant pipe!
I have 114k miles on my 2014 A7 Prestige and have not changed water pump, PCV Valve, or Thermostat! None are exhibiting problems, but after that many miles in hot AZ, I am on borrowed time. I'm going to use this great video and the one for thermostat/water pump to tackle this weekend. I can't thank you enough for the great vids! Thanks also for the comments about the coolant pipe at 15:22
Just finished this job. Customer had coolant leaking in their driveway, topping up overflow every day or two.. Pressure tested at the shop and thought it was just the waterpump. Ripped it out but wasnt sold on that being the problem. Did some research and found your guys video guides on this job. A few people chimed in and said I ought to be checking out the t-stat and pcv while im doing that waterpump. Ripped the supercharger off and sure enough an odd 20mm pool of coolant sitting in the valley. My customer wasnt in a rush for the car back and it was a quiet enough day so I was able to take my time. Coolant ports on the pcv were destroyed. Its my first time doing a job like this on Audi and I was pleasantly suprised. Overwhelming at first for sure, but I dont believe things are over engineered, in fact pretty simple. Sure not a rip shit and bust kind of job. But if you take your time, any junior tech can do this job. Kudos to your guys channel for doing your best to guide people like myself through these jobs. Gave me total confidence for doing this job. Would not recommend buying an audi unless you plan on doing the work yourself, otherwise youll be billed a hefty bill in just the labor
Great video nice and calm. I have been working on Mercedes and BMW for 24 years and occasionally I will get a client that will beg me to work on their audi or jag. Your video was helpfull and its nice to see an instructional by a real tech not a back yard boy tearing into a car with no knowlage. A+ Thanks again from Shane at California Mercedes and BMW in Fresno CA.😎 HAPPY MOTORING.
Ideally you should recommend before doing this job to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car and let it die or let it crank for a little while longer. That way the fuel lines can have it's pressure reduced from the dangerous high pressure it might be primed at. Then you won't have the issue of the line being primed by opening the door.
I saw this comment and followed your advice. Still leaked some fuel when pulling off the manifolds and the fuel lines but didn't seem to be as much fuel as in this video
@@mosinnagant76 yes should be drastically reduced, a shop towerl around to soak up the residual fuel is also wise. Further, as you're backing off the fuel lines, back it off slowly so the higher pressure can slowly dissipate vs being flung out everywhere causing vapour and possibility of ignition of fuel.
Love your 3.0t series of videos, very good instructions and detail. My PCV went bad and my symptoms were high vacuum on oil cap while running, leaking seals, and rough idle. all of those went away after pcv replacement. It's a good idea to do all of these maintenance parts at once because they are all under the supercharger.
Great video forgot to mention on both sides injector low intake you have to open by hand the flaps before you seat both sides injectors or you will get a code for intake manifold stuck open , Other from that great video .👍🏽✅
@@CallSignWireless ya I didn’t get this far in the video then I started throwing stuff back together and I’m experiencing the same issue but I have to start from scratch
If it's like the 3.2, not only do you have to hold the flaps open a bit, but after placing the manifold back on you need to hold the manifold down while tightening some screws. Once screwed down, ensure the flaps move manually before final torquing.
Just did this job on my 2016 SQ5, thanks for this detailed video! The only snafu I had was in how to put back the fuel injector seals, I mistakenly thought they went on top of the injector rather than just underneath its top lip, so I had a but of a fuel spray when I tested :) I went and got new 3 seal kits and replaced the seals on the 3 injectors on the passenger side, no issues after that.
The work is not easy. 5 hours to uninstall. No breaks, with assistance of good lights with all necessary tools handy.Expecting 3 hours to put back everything together. Things I learned /did other than the video 2015 Q5 S ( q5 has more room in the engine bay to work with) 1. Took out fuse for fuel pump (2nd row 25amp driver side box) 2. Drained coolant before anything else 3. Someone pointed out 15:22 mark . Another hose needs to come out to access the single screw on metal bracket to remove plastic pipe 4. Should not have removed screws from right side injectors assembly Be patient. It all works out. Saved myself 2000 dollars. 🎊
We ordered the full kit from FCP, followed this video step by step and have code P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1. Now we get to tear it all back down and do it over again.
Last comment haha maybe. I recommend replacing the gasket (ELRING 236060) that connects the oil filter canister to the engine when you do the PCV. Mine was leaking a LOT of oil. But buckle up its annoying to do.
Looks like you guys didn't include footage on reinstalling the hoses underneath? 😂 hope ppl have common sense on that one. Great videos! Really helped clear things up for me.
Do not forget to make sure u put the injector O rings back mine fell off when I took the IM valve off and didn’t know till I found it in the pcv valley area glad I caught that before reasembly
If FCP is still reading these posts, I have a question. I replaced the PCV valve at the start of 2022 due to coolant leaking into the engine valley (not from water pump or thermostat which I had replaced earlier). By the end of 2022, I checked the suction of the oil filler cap due to code P052E00 and the suction was very high. I returned the part in warranty and replaced it to find no difference. Doing some research, I found that I should have also replaced the crankcase breather hose. So I then replaced that. I also replaced the connector pipe between the supercharger and the PCV valve as well as the gaskets between the supercharger and the intake guide valve housing. It's still throwing that code. I thought that these were the only parts causing that code. If I hook a clamp up to the oil filler cap and attach a luggage scale, it shows about 5 pounds force to break it free, which I read is on the high side. Does something have to get coded at the dealer for a new PCV valve? I thought it was all strictly mechanical. One other question... at 4:17 in the video you mention removing the connector to the Hose Evap. Well mine were on really tightly due to that hose degrading over time so I removed it at the little black canister that the house connects to. Unfortunately I broke the end off of it. I taped it all up and it drove but I'd like to replace it but strangely Audi doesn't show that part in their schematics. Do you know what part that is and does FCP sell it and or the hose itself? Is it hollow or did something maybe fall out when I broke it? Like if it's a check valve. Thx. BTW, this video is great. I can now do this job practically blindfolded.
So some advice and explanations ideally someone will pin this: 1. buy some sythetic grease (permatex) for gasket lube, buy the narrowest bit holder you can for a t30, buy 6 or at least 3 injector gasket sets (with green plastic stopper, mine were brittle af) and o-ring yes theyre 50 bucks - but you own a high end worth it sports car its okay. Also make sure you have a torque wrench that goes down to 9 ft/lbs or your regional equivalent, a really good set of hose picks (vim are good) and a nice small to large assortment of pry bars (mine are the 3 set from Craftsman) 2. If you have a stock airbox then you may have to remove the "snorkle" between the air box and front trim using the 2 body trim clips then take that plastic piece out so you can take the belt off (it makes room for your long wrench). Dont do what I did and pry the wide plastic part off -.- which broke them. you can reach under them from the sides and pop the middle up and out releasing the wide trim bits. Off to my guys for 2 trim bits. 3. dont try and pull the tab on the position sensor just use 2 picks and pull the 3 parts of the tab off the connector so it can slip off dont bother with the grey locking tab, slide your pick between the plug and the 2 black and 1 grey tabs then move them away from the connector while pushing down on the head of the connectors lip - wont break the grey tab like i did but came right off (this works brilliantly for both flapper bodies). Also for those grey tab pull and pinch connectors, sometimes they just get stuck so I wedge a pick tip between the body of the connector and the bottom of the grey tab on the front of the connector which is usually enough to unstick it. 4. Also those flapper assemblies are hard as fuck to get off just disconnect like he did here and pull up and wiggle, lots of wiggling I also GENTLY pried on it after much sweat tears and swearing pried from the valve cover side like barely and in mulitple spots - always be wiggling. 5. vaccum your intake and then cover and keep covered as often as possible 6. you can just remove the air hoses that are attached to the PCV unit from the heads really easily so you can reduce the chance of breakage 7. For that FUCKING coolant pipe (lol, it is a good design though once on wont come out) over the Valve body make a thin metal shim, twist the pipe to slip the shim between the moulded bolt hole and connector bracket then with a towel around the pipe near the block side gently put a pair of pliers either vice or regular (no needle nose) around the bend down and with a pry bar braced against the metal block at an angle pry against the pliers - this should be enough to pop off the coolant pipe so that you can manually push it back (basically like cracking any bolt, once the hard bit is done you can do it manually). 8. When inserting the flapper valve back on make sure the gaskets are lubed with syn grease (permatex is fine) and make sure they're on the nozzles to your injectors otherwise you'll have a bad time. Ideally you'd take other flapper body off and replace those gaskets as well as the passenger side sure they're 50 bucks a piece but piece of mind right. Also he quickly mentions it but it needs repeating MAKE SURE YOUR FLAPS ARE FULLY OPEN WHEN PUSHING THE BODY DOWN and that when the flapper body is down that you can see the metal baffle in each intake that the flap rests against. if unsure try actuating the flaps if they do not go down then you have inserted incorrectly and you'll throw codes along with power issues. 9. If you have a fuel leak after testing by opening the door it will not do it again (or at least mine didn't) I talked to my shop and disconnecting and reconnecting the batter MIGHT work but as a VAG auto owner I have a rosstech aka VCDS so just went into the engine module and hunted around looking for a fuel pump test or in my case a "fuel pump electronics test" you turn it on and it primes continously so make sure you stay close to turn it off because you have to turn it off manually in VCDS 10. lube your air intake gaskets lightly 11. make sure that your double ended vaccume hose the U shaped one is up and to the side so it can come around the back of the super charger 12. I found it really easy to do the coolant hoses when the bracket at the front was attached so kinda get the ones on the super charger aligned then put the bolt through the bracket and align it with the bolt then tighten - easy peasy that way. 13. def use a vaccume bleeder for the coolant super easy and you can check for leaks. Schwaben @ ECSTUNING makes a decent one for 75ish USD that works with an air compressor or hand pump 14. when doing the belt grab a pry bar or two (I have a 3 set of craftsman that are perfect). Use one to put light tension on the loose end by running through it across the rad and block (its not tight just keeps it from dangling so you can use the longer one to nudge the belt back onto pulleys (worked seamlessly). Then use the short one to hold the belt if you dont have a long ratcheting wrench (i didn't) so I held the belt it its barely on position using that pry bar and repositioned the wrench on the tensioner to get the needed amount of slack to gently use the wide pry bar end to work the edges over the pulley - worked really well. 15. before starting make sure to recant the litany to the Omnissiah and offer praise to it's machine spirit (if you know you know haha)
Really great tutorial but have a few complaints (maybe the B8.5 is different). There is one more electrical plug below the MAF sensor and two more vacuum lines attached to that plug. I spent 45 minutes wondering why the supercharger would not lift off!!!
Ok last comment. :). To answer the question about the risk of coolant in the engine... If you drain the coolant as in the video, very little coolant should be remaining once you remove the PCV valve. The cavity in the engine that the PCV valve occupies is fed with oil from the oil filter side of the engine through a hole about a half inch from the bottom of the cavity. It drains through a hole at the engine front side of the cavity through a hole at the bottom of the cavity. The coolant holes are near the oil inlet, so if excess coolant drips into the cavity, it'll get caught in the bottom of that cavity. The bottom isn't flat, but has a small dam that will make a catch area. It'll be filled with oil when you pull the PCV valve out. If coolant is in that catch area, it can be removed with shop towels. No coolant should get in the engine if care is taken. If a dealer days it's required, they're either gouging you or reckless. Probably both. However I will say that I took the time to remove the intake on the driver's side of the engine. If that is done, the access to the PCV valve is completely clear and the PCV valve can be removed perfectly level. I didn't want to crack any vacuum lines, so I used this method instead of the yank-the-guts method in the video. But I'm an amateur and I'd probably wreck something if I tried the video method. For sure no coolant dripped since it was level during removal. This is such an amazing video. Thanks so much for providing it. Your company rocks.
Shame on Audi for overengineering stuff but underdelivering on reliability! Car should reasonably last for at least 100,000 miles if well maintained! Yes, I am a current Audi owner...
I don't think that's always the case. PCV valve returns the oil vapor or particles from the crank case back to the intake manifold. Oil mixing with coolant might be the oil cooler seal. Usually the oil cooler sits next to the oil filter. The transmission also has one to cool ita fluid down. Those oil coolers have seals to prevent coolant from mixing with the oil. Check them out first before PCV
Ugh. I cracked a PCV breather hose changing valve cover gaskets due to an oil leak. I figure since I have to pull the supercharger to get to the hose that I might as well do the PCV (2013 car), but now I'm not sure. Still, great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for the video, the FCP videos are the best! I didn't hear any mention of replacing the crankcase breather hose while in there. Had a shop do the PCV job, and months later the car is throwing Error Code 20136 - PCV Valve Malfunction in VCDS although there is no check engine light on. The little research I've done seems to point towards the crankcase breather hose, meaning it all has to be disassembled again. Any insight on this? Thanks!
Loved the explanation. I just changed the crankcase valve on my 2017 Audi Q7 3.0t. After starting up the engine lite came on and a P2014 code came up. Any recommendations? Thanks
I know this is really late, but for anyone reading later... This is the standard code saying that the intake vanes under the intake manifold are not moving when told to. If you removed the intakes (like if doing carbon removal) then when you reinstalled them they got caught and won't move. But if you followed the video and didn't remove them, then my guess is maybe you missed attaching the vacuum hose to one side or the other. Those vanes are moved by little vacuum powered motors. On the plus side, if that happened then they should be ready to see and reinstall without taking anything off.
Definitely drain the coolant or when you discontent the supercharger lines, all the coolant in the supercharger will pour so over your garage floor. And you want it out of the PCV valve area or it'll drain into the engine, which is open when you remove the PCV valve. Think power unit in Iron Man's chest.
Thanks for the video! You guys are amazing! I have a 2014 Audi A7. I replaced my PCV valve to an updated unit. VCDS is still showing a pcv fault code stored in the ECU with no engine light on. I don't know what to do now. Does this need to be taken to dealer for software updates? The car has 84000 km. Thanks in advance!
is there any recommendations for flushing the coolant out of the oil system other than just putting fresh oil in it? Would a product like motor flush be a good solution?
Looking at the blueprints for the PCV and oil separator and thinking about the FSI carbon build up problems. Wouldn't be just easiest to plug the intake and blower ports for this whole squid thing and let the nonreturn PCV line just hanging/ideally connecting it to longer hose and letting it ventilating on the road.....? would that be possible? Once it would do blasting after the engine should be good fer ever, right?
I have been able to successfully do everything except separate the two hoses at @15:30. I see you disconnected from the front side but did you leave it connected on the side where the clip is? I got the xlip out but cannot separate the hose at all.
@mpitre001 that's what I did to pull out of the thermostat housing side. But the back end goes somehwere in that clusterfuck and I'm no sure how it even attaches. Is there a clip or clamp back there? I need to fully remove the pipe from the car.
I remember there was a clip that i was able to get out fairly easy but this was a while back and I'm no mechanic. I also looked at the Audi C7 Owners channel and the same job was done. I used both videos to get it done
You guys are the master! I have done the same but i forgot to put back the cover at 28:48 ( between the pcv valve and supercharger) is it okay or should i put it back .. please advice
For anyone else wondering this, that black cover is just for sound deadening and is not needed at all. It will make your supercharger a little louder though.
When diagnosing the PCV valve issue, how hard of a vacuum should be felt by hand over the engine fill port? Should there always be a slight vacuum felt or no vacuum?
Thank you. Doing this on my 2015 q7. I need to check out more of your videos. You have one on an intake cleaner to remove carbon build up on back of valves??
Alright, stupid question... I have a 2013 Q7 3.0 tfsi. Is this the same procedure? I am decent with cars, not a pro. Back in "the day" I swapped a 455 for a 350 in my rusted-out 72 Cutlass and replaced the cast iron intake for an Aluminum Edelbrock. I believe I can do this. I just want to make sure I get all the parts and info. Thank you!
Had some buddies over and we completed the repair. Well, we got a new PCV installed. Unfortunately, I am still experiencing high oil consumption. Great Video! Very helpful. Thanks FCP
Another great video! I will be doing this at the same time I do my carbon cleaning. Can you post a link to the O-ring for the coolant pipe shown at 20:30?
while you are there I highly suggest replacing your oil check valves which are under the pcv. Only 60$ each and eliminate the possibility of startup rattles on all 3.0t's. They are only installed from factory on the b8 s4's but they will fit all other 3.0t's.
@@quattro4944 thanks for the reminder, I just deleted my post.That was not the correct part number. I ended up not replacing the thermostat and rebuilding the pcv instead of replacing the whole thing when I did my carbon cleaning.
really wish you would have said something about taking the headlights out or being very careful not to break the very fragile tabs on the headlights when putting the car in the service position . i broke several trying to get a little more room. i was told afterward from a tech that you always take the headlights out when putting in service position.
I am having real trouble getting the intake manifold off, i believe its the injector seals which are preventing it coming up. Is there safe way to pry it up? Also, i forgot to order injector o-rings, are they vital to be replaced? Is there a size I could use from a local source? Thanks all
@@garethwood4316 yeah i ended up just forcing it off. I think i lightly levered it with a screwdriver (using a rag to prevent scratching) and then just man-handled it off. its caused by insufficient lube on the injector seals and so make sure you put something on them before reinstalling.
I do appreciate the video, but what good does it do for the installers, like me who don’t have a mechanic background, to speed up certain parts where you’re putting stuff together and working around wires and hoses..
Wow! This looks super involved. All those electrical components to undo, hoses and lines. This looks outside my comfort zone, but would cost over $2,000 at a dealer or even import garage. How long did this actually take in real time? Also have to vacuum/bleed the coolant looks to be an issue without the proper tools. I also read you have to get the ECM reprogrammed due to the lower pressure after a PCV Body is replaced. Is this true? if so, that's like an another $200 dollars. Is this also for the Q5 3.0T?
This note is on the linked website for the crankcase pressure valave: "Note: When The Repair Is Finished, You Will Need To Update The ECM Level At The Dealership. The New ECM Level Will Allow The Crankcase Pressure Valve To Operate At Lower Operating Pressures." What are your thoughts?
the fuel rail is built into the "flapper body" so yes you should reuse it unless you broke it or is damaged prior. I would give you the advice as a VW enthusiast gave to me: turn the flapper over and make sure your gaskets aren't stuck in the ports because they most likely are. 2nd probably should replace the injector o-rings and plastic brace (green bit in the injector seal kit) 3rd is get some permatex synthetic lube and lube the o-ring making sure its on the injector under the lip
my pcv and cats went at the same time on my b8. ive always wondered if my pcv went first and i didnt notice and driving with it caused the cats to melt
When I installed the tumble housing I don't remember if it was open or closed. I started the car(2015 q7 v6 ) everything seemed to be fine until I connected my obdscaner p2006 came on intake manifold runner control stuck bank 1 .if it is stuck how do I solve this problem. Does it affect the performance of the car?
I have a Porsche hybrid with same engine I get the fault p2279 intake air system leak do I need to change the pvc or does the pvc have normally different fault code
if you get a soft code scan of PCV Regulator Valve Performance code P052E0 does this always mean the pcv needs replacement?my 14 sq4 drives fine with no dash cels and has normal pressure unscrewing the oil while running
I have a 2016 Q5 with a suspect PCV. Oil hits the ground after operating under boost conditions and shut down in a short time period. Never under normal driving. High crank case vacuum with engine at idle will collapse an oil bottle. Less than 42 thousand when I purchased at auction and was already occurring. Every thing else is tip top.
Can a bad pcv cause an oil leak that is significant or possibly the oil valley pan maybe cracked? Have a leak but seems like it coming from inside engine but cant tell where. Was told it could be one of these 2 parts.
This is also appliccable to the 2015 Q5 with the 3.0T engine, right? I dont see any mention of the Q5 with the 3.0T in the description or on the blog post.
FCP euro are there any differences with the A6 C7 and B8.5 (your title) in terms of 3.0t engine? How long is the job to do on this particular model, PM service?
@FCP Euro I bought your Ultimate Breather Kit, which comes with everything I need to change everything under the supercharger at once. I'm in the middle of reassembly on my 2014 S4. The engine crankcase breather hose is different, as I guess Audi added an electronic check valve where your plastic one is. Do you have a feasible workaround for this? The molded tubing is not coming off of the barbed fitting at the check valve, or I'd just swap hoses. The one on my check valve is cracked, and not reusable.I literally can make no further progress, so if anyone else reads this and has dealt with the issue, please advise. Thanks so much.
I have a 2015 s5 3.0tfsi which needs an intake manifold potential air leak identified with engine management light. Quoted 4.5 hours of labour just to strip and investigate. Will it really take this long? Or is the dealer pulling a fast one?
Getting ready to do this myself. I was looking at the pcv for the B8.5 and in the description it says after the repair to update the ECM at the dealership. Is that only necessary if installing on a B8?
Just got done doing all of this to my 2012 S4. Very insightful and a GREAT reference guide. Can’t thank you guys/gals enough for these videos, parts selection, quick shipping, and great customer support. This is how a company should be operated.
Our pleasure!
Currently doing this to my s4 😂
@@TheBlackHangerrr hey bro how long did it take you to do it?
Yep would love tonknow what kind of time lime this takes. Im Getting quoted about 13hrs to do this with the thermo and water pump.
@@scottcasey4400 Holy moly, shop i brought it to quoted total price for only PCV replacment for $1800, so it was little over $600 in parts and 1200 in labor ($250/hr)
When reinstalling your lower intakes, hold the flaps partly open or they will be stick shut and give codes .
And after they are seated, actuate the flaps and make sure they move freely
They kinda gloss over the part at 15:22 where you pull the coolant pipe but it had me stuck for a while. There's two screws on the bracket in the back. The lower one is kind of unreachable but don't mess with that one. Just push the pipe out of the bracket sideways and then push it back and it comes right out :)
Not seeing that bracket but what im reading from others is that pipe is connected to a flexible brakcet/pipe and can be pushed back. Is that accurate ? I think ive spent more time on this pipe than replacing the waterpump and thermostat.
@@aeda84 yeah same that part sucked. It is connected to a flexible piece so you just take the one screw out and slide it out towards the driver side
On mine someone previously replaced the torx with a hex screw. The bracket is bent back enough to get the screw in without going through the bracket. It just runs right through the pipe. A ratcheting box wrench made quick work of it. Really good hack imo.
I've spent an hour trying to get the pipe out. I could remove the T30 at the back just using a T30 on a 5 inch extension. But that pipe just won't come out of the hole up at the front by the thermostat. If anyone has a suggestion, please put it here. Thx.
@@ijdad99 I'm stuck on the same pipe Called it quits for the night and will reevaluate. If I figure it out tomorrow I'll post a reply. Let me know if you succeed.
For anyone stuck at 15:00, what I did was grab a regular Allen key set and find one that fit the T30 well enough to crack the torque on the bolt. After that I was able to unthread it by hand or just using a T30 screwdriver bit with my hand. Good luck all!
yes
U are a lifesaver just about gave up on that bolt haha
@@jalapep503 :) your welcome
I used a T30 bit and a 1/4" fine tooth ratcheting box end wrench. Just enough clearance to get in there and get it out. Now I am stuck on removing the damn coolant pipe!
@@mosinnagant76how did you get the coolant pipe out, I’ve been stuck on it for like 4 hours
I have 114k miles on my 2014 A7 Prestige and have not changed water pump, PCV Valve, or Thermostat! None are exhibiting problems, but after that many miles in hot AZ, I am on borrowed time. I'm going to use this great video and the one for thermostat/water pump to tackle this weekend. I can't thank you enough for the great vids! Thanks also for the comments about the coolant pipe at 15:22
Replaced Pcv with aftermarket(autozone) one,no more whistle noise,but strong vacuum still there!
These great videos separate you from the competition. You have a life long customer for both my VAG vehicles. Keep up the great work.
Just finished this job. Customer had coolant leaking in their driveway, topping up overflow every day or two..
Pressure tested at the shop and thought it was just the waterpump. Ripped it out but wasnt sold on that being the problem. Did some research and found your guys video guides on this job. A few people chimed in and said I ought to be checking out the t-stat and pcv while im doing that waterpump. Ripped the supercharger off and sure enough an odd 20mm pool of coolant sitting in the valley. My customer wasnt in a rush for the car back and it was a quiet enough day so I was able to take my time. Coolant ports on the pcv were destroyed.
Its my first time doing a job like this on Audi and I was pleasantly suprised. Overwhelming at first for sure, but I dont believe things are over engineered, in fact pretty simple. Sure not a rip shit and bust kind of job. But if you take your time, any junior tech can do this job.
Kudos to your guys channel for doing your best to guide people like myself through these jobs. Gave me total confidence for doing this job.
Would not recommend buying an audi unless you plan on doing the work yourself, otherwise youll be billed a hefty bill in just the labor
I started this video thinking it's a sunday morning DIY project. Heck! It'll take me 2 weekends just to gather/buy the tools and parts.
well hopfully after those 2 weekends gathering, you'll find the repair itself easier to knockout on a Sunday
@@fcpeuro any more plans for further 3.0T b8.5 videos ? maybe one of them should be to tackle the timing chain guides😄
It'll take me two weeks just list out the steps, time stamp and tools.
Can you tackle engine wiring harness
I was thinking the same thing. Uhhhh....
Great video nice and calm. I have been working on Mercedes and BMW for 24 years and occasionally I will get a client that will beg me to work on their audi or jag. Your video was helpfull and its nice to see an instructional by a real tech not a back yard boy tearing into a car with no knowlage. A+
Thanks again from Shane at California Mercedes and BMW in Fresno CA.😎 HAPPY MOTORING.
I'm following your process on my A7 and I must say, you have impaccable skill and patients, great job my friend🙂!
just curious on how that is going. Currently looking to do it on my 2012.
Ideally you should recommend before doing this job to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car and let it die or let it crank for a little while longer. That way the fuel lines can have it's pressure reduced from the dangerous high pressure it might be primed at. Then you won't have the issue of the line being primed by opening the door.
I saw this comment and followed your advice. Still leaked some fuel when pulling off the manifolds and the fuel lines but didn't seem to be as much fuel as in this video
@@mosinnagant76 yes should be drastically reduced, a shop towerl around to soak up the residual fuel is also wise. Further, as you're backing off the fuel lines, back it off slowly so the higher pressure can slowly dissipate vs being flung out everywhere causing vapour and possibility of ignition of fuel.
Would strongly recommend laying a shop towel over, or gently stuffing parts of a shop towel into the intake ports.
Gorilla tape works well for that.
I was thinking the same after he mentioned not letting anything fall in them.
@@mk_ultrarunnerwhat happenea if a little sand falls in
Love your 3.0t series of videos, very good instructions and detail. My PCV went bad and my symptoms were high vacuum on oil cap while running, leaking seals, and rough idle. all of those went away after pcv replacement. It's a good idea to do all of these maintenance parts at once because they are all under the supercharger.
Great video forgot to mention on both sides injector low intake you have to open by hand the flaps before you seat both sides injectors or you will get a code for intake manifold stuck open ,
Other from that great video .👍🏽✅
very important step right here. The flaps get stuck on the baffles if you dont remember when reinstalling. I get to remove the lower intakes again.
@@CallSignWireless ya I didn’t get this far in the video then I started throwing stuff back together and I’m experiencing the same issue but I have to start from scratch
If it's like the 3.2, not only do you have to hold the flaps open a bit, but after placing the manifold back on you need to hold the manifold down while tightening some screws. Once screwed down, ensure the flaps move manually before final torquing.
What happens if you don’t push down flaps? Just get code or?
He did mention it at 23:50.
Just did this job on my 2016 SQ5, thanks for this detailed video! The only snafu I had was in how to put back the fuel injector seals, I mistakenly thought they went on top of the injector rather than just underneath its top lip, so I had a but of a fuel spray when I tested :) I went and got new 3 seal kits and replaced the seals on the 3 injectors on the passenger side, no issues after that.
I know your pain rofl but double since I had both off from also scrapping carbon off the valves
The work is not easy. 5 hours to uninstall. No breaks, with assistance of good lights with all necessary tools handy.Expecting 3 hours to put back everything together. Things I learned /did other than the video
2015 Q5 S ( q5 has more room in the engine bay to work with)
1. Took out fuse for fuel pump (2nd row 25amp driver side box)
2. Drained coolant before anything else
3. Someone pointed out 15:22 mark . Another hose needs to come out to access the single screw on metal bracket to remove plastic pipe
4. Should not have removed screws from right side injectors assembly
Be patient. It all works out. Saved myself 2000 dollars. 🎊
We ordered the full kit from FCP, followed this video step by step and have code P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1. Now we get to tear it all back down and do it over again.
Last comment haha maybe. I recommend replacing the gasket (ELRING 236060) that connects the oil filter canister to the engine when you do the PCV. Mine was leaking a LOT of oil. But buckle up its annoying to do.
Looks like you guys didn't include footage on reinstalling the hoses underneath? 😂 hope ppl have common sense on that one. Great videos! Really helped clear things up for me.
Great vid!! Can you guys do a Front and rear brake DIY next in the B8.5 ?!
This took me thirty minutes to do. Real easy beginner job, didn't need any of the specialized tools.
Do not forget to make sure u put the injector O rings back mine fell off when I took the IM valve off and didn’t know till I found it in the pcv valley area glad I caught that before reasembly
always check each gasket and mating area :p
That t-30 in the adjustable was a brave move 🧐 👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe a flexible attachment to the impact gun would elevate this issue in the future
It's easy to get to using a normal T30 bit on a 5 inch extension. No worries about dropping a tool into the abyss.
Great video! Definitely taking it to the Audi service center. Not something I have time to do.
be ready to fork out $1700.00...that is what they quoted me on my 2017 Q7 3.0t
Could have it done at a local small audi specialist shop!
If FCP is still reading these posts, I have a question. I replaced the PCV valve at the start of 2022 due to coolant leaking into the engine valley (not from water pump or thermostat which I had replaced earlier). By the end of 2022, I checked the suction of the oil filler cap due to code P052E00 and the suction was very high. I returned the part in warranty and replaced it to find no difference. Doing some research, I found that I should have also replaced the crankcase breather hose. So I then replaced that. I also replaced the connector pipe between the supercharger and the PCV valve as well as the gaskets between the supercharger and the intake guide valve housing. It's still throwing that code. I thought that these were the only parts causing that code. If I hook a clamp up to the oil filler cap and attach a luggage scale, it shows about 5 pounds force to break it free, which I read is on the high side.
Does something have to get coded at the dealer for a new PCV valve? I thought it was all strictly mechanical.
One other question... at 4:17 in the video you mention removing the connector to the Hose Evap. Well mine were on really tightly due to that hose degrading over time so I removed it at the little black canister that the house connects to. Unfortunately I broke the end off of it. I taped it all up and it drove but I'd like to replace it but strangely Audi doesn't show that part in their schematics. Do you know what part that is and does FCP sell it and or the hose itself? Is it hollow or did something maybe fall out when I broke it? Like if it's a check valve.
Thx. BTW, this video is great. I can now do this job practically blindfolded.
So some advice and explanations ideally someone will pin this: 1. buy some sythetic grease (permatex) for gasket lube, buy the narrowest bit holder you can for a t30, buy 6 or at least 3 injector gasket sets (with green plastic stopper, mine were brittle af) and o-ring yes theyre 50 bucks - but you own a high end worth it sports car its okay. Also make sure you have a torque wrench that goes down to 9 ft/lbs or your regional equivalent, a really good set of hose picks (vim are good) and a nice small to large assortment of pry bars (mine are the 3 set from Craftsman)
2. If you have a stock airbox then you may have to remove the "snorkle" between the air box and front trim using the 2 body trim clips then take that plastic piece out so you can take the belt off (it makes room for your long wrench). Dont do what I did and pry the wide plastic part off -.- which broke them. you can reach under them from the sides and pop the middle up and out releasing the wide trim bits. Off to my guys for 2 trim bits.
3. dont try and pull the tab on the position sensor just use 2 picks and pull the 3 parts of the tab off the connector so it can slip off dont bother with the grey locking tab, slide your pick between the plug and the 2 black and 1 grey tabs then move them away from the connector while pushing down on the head of the connectors lip - wont break the grey tab like i did but came right off (this works brilliantly for both flapper bodies). Also for those grey tab pull and pinch connectors, sometimes they just get stuck so I wedge a pick tip between the body of the connector and the bottom of the grey tab on the front of the connector which is usually enough to unstick it.
4. Also those flapper assemblies are hard as fuck to get off just disconnect like he did here and pull up and wiggle, lots of wiggling I also GENTLY pried on it after much sweat tears and swearing pried from the valve cover side like barely and in mulitple spots - always be wiggling.
5. vaccum your intake and then cover and keep covered as often as possible
6. you can just remove the air hoses that are attached to the PCV unit from the heads really easily so you can reduce the chance of breakage
7. For that FUCKING coolant pipe (lol, it is a good design though once on wont come out) over the Valve body make a thin metal shim, twist the pipe to slip the shim between the moulded bolt hole and connector bracket then with a towel around the pipe near the block side gently put a pair of pliers either vice or regular (no needle nose) around the bend down and with a pry bar braced against the metal block at an angle pry against the pliers - this should be enough to pop off the coolant pipe so that you can manually push it back (basically like cracking any bolt, once the hard bit is done you can do it manually).
8. When inserting the flapper valve back on make sure the gaskets are lubed with syn grease (permatex is fine) and make sure they're on the nozzles to your injectors otherwise you'll have a bad time. Ideally you'd take other flapper body off and replace those gaskets as well as the passenger side sure they're 50 bucks a piece but piece of mind right. Also he quickly mentions it but it needs repeating MAKE SURE YOUR FLAPS ARE FULLY OPEN WHEN PUSHING THE BODY DOWN and that when the flapper body is down that you can see the metal baffle in each intake that the flap rests against. if unsure try actuating the flaps if they do not go down then you have inserted incorrectly and you'll throw codes along with power issues.
9. If you have a fuel leak after testing by opening the door it will not do it again (or at least mine didn't) I talked to my shop and disconnecting and reconnecting the batter MIGHT work but as a VAG auto owner I have a rosstech aka VCDS so just went into the engine module and hunted around looking for a fuel pump test or in my case a "fuel pump electronics test" you turn it on and it primes continously so make sure you stay close to turn it off because you have to turn it off manually in VCDS
10. lube your air intake gaskets lightly
11. make sure that your double ended vaccume hose the U shaped one is up and to the side so it can come around the back of the super charger
12. I found it really easy to do the coolant hoses when the bracket at the front was attached so kinda get the ones on the super charger aligned then put the bolt through the bracket and align it with the bolt then tighten - easy peasy that way.
13. def use a vaccume bleeder for the coolant super easy and you can check for leaks. Schwaben @ ECSTUNING makes a decent one for 75ish USD that works with an air compressor or hand pump
14. when doing the belt grab a pry bar or two (I have a 3 set of craftsman that are perfect). Use one to put light tension on the loose end by running through it across the rad and block (its not tight just keeps it from dangling so you can use the longer one to nudge the belt back onto pulleys (worked seamlessly). Then use the short one to hold the belt if you dont have a long ratcheting wrench (i didn't) so I held the belt it its barely on position using that pry bar and repositioned the wrench on the tensioner to get the needed amount of slack to gently use the wide pry bar end to work the edges over the pulley - worked really well.
15. before starting make sure to recant the litany to the Omnissiah and offer praise to it's machine spirit (if you know you know haha)
Just ordered the kit…about to do it once it arrives, hopefully my car makes it til then 😅
Hi FCP if coolant spills when you remove the pcv, does that mean you have to change the oil too? As that coolant could mix with the oil?
Thank You ! Awesome tutorial I have a 2011 Audi Q7 Premium and was able to follow your instructions
Awesome, Matthew!
Thank you for this informative Video, I'm about to order my parts for my Audi A7 today.
You did a phenomenal job with this video! Keep u the great work. This helped me a ton
Same process for a 2011 3.2 q5. I had to remove an intake runner as well. Very easy!
Really great tutorial but have a few complaints (maybe the B8.5 is different). There is one more electrical plug below the MAF sensor and two more vacuum lines attached to that plug. I spent 45 minutes wondering why the supercharger would not lift off!!!
GOD DAMN! I’m having that vaccum problem at the moment, didn’t realize I needed to change it that soon
Great vid! Maybe pull the fuel pump fuse B3 to avoid the priming issue mentioned at 9:30
got any moe info on the coolant vacuum tool you used? Thanks
Ok last comment. :). To answer the question about the risk of coolant in the engine... If you drain the coolant as in the video, very little coolant should be remaining once you remove the PCV valve. The cavity in the engine that the PCV valve occupies is fed with oil from the oil filter side of the engine through a hole about a half inch from the bottom of the cavity. It drains through a hole at the engine front side of the cavity through a hole at the bottom of the cavity. The coolant holes are near the oil inlet, so if excess coolant drips into the cavity, it'll get caught in the bottom of that cavity. The bottom isn't flat, but has a small dam that will make a catch area. It'll be filled with oil when you pull the PCV valve out. If coolant is in that catch area, it can be removed with shop towels. No coolant should get in the engine if care is taken. If a dealer days it's required, they're either gouging you or reckless. Probably both.
However I will say that I took the time to remove the intake on the driver's side of the engine. If that is done, the access to the PCV valve is completely clear and the PCV valve can be removed perfectly level. I didn't want to crack any vacuum lines, so I used this method instead of the yank-the-guts method in the video. But I'm an amateur and I'd probably wreck something if I tried the video method. For sure no coolant dripped since it was level during removal.
This is such an amazing video. Thanks so much for providing it. Your company rocks.
Thank you very much for this video!
Refered back a couple of times to find routing etc.
Thanks guys! Very informative. Is there a comparison between revisions H and AB?
Shame on Audi for overengineering stuff but underdelivering on reliability! Car should reasonably last for at least 100,000 miles if well maintained! Yes, I am a current Audi owner...
this is one of the best engines from Audi... 170k mi and counting
227k ... And counting
@@gtek5261how many PCV valves have you gone thru? Water pumps/thermostats?
@@irishmexican21ocmy question exactly
@@irishmexican21oc1… 230k on the clock
I've heard PCV is also named Oil Separator, finding coolant in oil is it also a symptom of a bad PCV? Your videos are awesome, thanks
I don't think that's always the case. PCV valve returns the oil vapor or particles from the crank case back to the intake manifold. Oil mixing with coolant might be the oil cooler seal. Usually the oil cooler sits next to the oil filter. The transmission also has one to cool ita fluid down. Those oil coolers have seals to prevent coolant from mixing with the oil. Check them out first before PCV
Check your intercoolers inside the compressor. They can have coolant leaking
Ugh. I cracked a PCV breather hose changing valve cover gaskets due to an oil leak. I figure since I have to pull the supercharger to get to the hose that I might as well do the PCV (2013 car), but now I'm not sure. Still, great video. Thank you for sharing.
what is the labor time for this job?
Thank you very much for this video, I have an Audi Sq5 with the same issue, going to try it myself.
Btw I live in Amsterdam otherwise I would have ordered it at FCP :)
Thank you for the video, the FCP videos are the best! I didn't hear any mention of replacing the crankcase breather hose while in there. Had a shop do the PCV job, and months later the car is throwing Error Code 20136 - PCV Valve Malfunction in VCDS although there is no check engine light on. The little research I've done seems to point towards the crankcase breather hose, meaning it all has to be disassembled again. Any insight on this? Thanks!
Also at the end of the video I didn't see you reinstall the under hoses at 8:58 before you fired up the engine.
Loved the explanation. I just changed the crankcase valve on my 2017 Audi Q7 3.0t. After starting up the engine lite came on and a P2014 code came up. Any recommendations? Thanks
I know this is really late, but for anyone reading later... This is the standard code saying that the intake vanes under the intake manifold are not moving when told to. If you removed the intakes
(like if doing carbon removal) then when you reinstalled them they got caught and won't move. But if you followed the video and didn't remove them, then my guess is maybe you missed attaching the vacuum hose to one side or the other. Those vanes are moved by little vacuum powered motors. On the plus side, if that happened then they should be ready to see and reinstall without taking anything off.
Is it necessary to drain the coolant from the bottom (min 8:10)? Can we skip this step?
Definitely drain the coolant or when you discontent the supercharger lines, all the coolant in the supercharger will pour so over your garage floor. And you want it out of the PCV valve area or it'll drain into the engine, which is open when you remove the PCV valve. Think power unit in Iron Man's chest.
Thanks for the video! You guys are amazing! I have a 2014 Audi A7. I replaced my PCV valve to an updated unit. VCDS is still showing a pcv fault code stored in the ECU with no engine light on. I don't know what to do now. Does this need to be taken to dealer for software updates? The car has 84000 km. Thanks in advance!
Drive it baby
Hi, I have the same problem!!!. Please tell me did you fix it somehow??? I don't want to take it apart again...
is there any recommendations for flushing the coolant out of the oil system other than just putting fresh oil in it? Would a product like motor flush be a good solution?
It’d be cool if you explained the function/purpose of the parts being replaced. Still a very insightful video either way
Noted!
Is this pretty much the same procedure for the 2012 A6 3.0T?
Looking at the blueprints for the PCV and oil separator and thinking about the FSI carbon build up problems. Wouldn't be just easiest to plug the intake and blower ports for this whole squid thing and let the nonreturn PCV line just hanging/ideally connecting it to longer hose and letting it ventilating on the road.....? would that be possible? Once it would do blasting after the engine should be good fer ever, right?
Good job on this video. Appreciate the work you put into it.
I have been able to successfully do everything except separate the two hoses at @15:30. I see you disconnected from the front side but did you leave it connected on the side where the clip is? I got the xlip out but cannot separate the hose at all.
You got that pipe out of there? I cannot figure out how to undo the back end. I can't see shit. How's it come out?
i literally just yanked it really hard and it ended up coming out. I struggled and resulted to that and it worked
@mpitre001 that's what I did to pull out of the thermostat housing side. But the back end goes somehwere in that clusterfuck and I'm no sure how it even attaches. Is there a clip or clamp back there? I need to fully remove the pipe from the car.
I remember there was a clip that i was able to get out fairly easy but this was a while back and I'm no mechanic. I also looked at the Audi C7 Owners channel and the same job was done. I used both videos to get it done
Anyone know the part number for the o’ring he replaced on the coolant pipe at 20:43? Thanks!
Very good congratulations for your professionalism, Thank you👍
If you have the vacuum bleeder do you have to bleed the heater core?
So is there any way of putting a catch can on the b8.5? to help reduce the carbon build up?
Great video! I've been waiting for this one.
You guys are the master! I have done the same but i forgot to put back the cover at 28:48 ( between the pcv valve and supercharger) is it okay or should i put it back .. please advice
For anyone else wondering this, that black cover is just for sound deadening and is not needed at all. It will make your supercharger a little louder though.
When diagnosing the PCV valve issue, how hard of a vacuum should be felt by hand over the engine fill port? Should there always be a slight vacuum felt or no vacuum?
Slight vacuum is normal. If it’s stuck on so hard that you have to use force to remove it then it’s probably bad
Thank you guys for this vid it helped me out so much keep up the the great work
Glad to hear it!
Thank you. Doing this on my 2015 q7. I need to check out more of your videos. You have one on an intake cleaner to remove carbon build up on back of valves??
Alright, stupid question... I have a 2013 Q7 3.0 tfsi. Is this the same procedure? I am decent with cars, not a pro. Back in "the day" I swapped a 455 for a 350 in my rusted-out 72 Cutlass and replaced the cast iron intake for an Aluminum Edelbrock. I believe I can do this. I just want to make sure I get all the parts and info. Thank you!
Had some buddies over and we completed the repair. Well, we got a new PCV installed. Unfortunately, I am still experiencing high oil consumption. Great Video! Very helpful. Thanks FCP
What PCV part number do I need for an Audi 2012 (built 3/2012) ? I noticed there are two different ones. Thanks
00:32 sec what's that o ring part number, or does it come with the waterpump kit, i got a 2013 b8.5
Another great video! I will be doing this at the same time I do my carbon cleaning. Can you post a link to the O-ring for the coolant pipe shown at 20:30?
while you are there I highly suggest replacing your oil check valves which are under the pcv. Only 60$ each and eliminate the possibility of startup rattles on all 3.0t's. They are only installed from factory on the b8 s4's but they will fit all other 3.0t's.
@@Mikeeg0607 are u sire thats the right one ? The one from number you provided looks littlebit diffrent ?
@@quattro4944 thanks for the reminder, I just deleted my post.That was not the correct part number. I ended up not replacing the thermostat and rebuilding the pcv instead of replacing the whole thing when I did my carbon cleaning.
really wish you would have said something about taking the headlights out or being very careful not to break the very fragile tabs on the headlights when putting the car in the service position . i broke several trying to get a little more room. i was told afterward from a tech that you always take the headlights out when putting in service position.
I am having real trouble getting the intake manifold off, i believe its the injector seals which are preventing it coming up. Is there safe way to pry it up? Also, i forgot to order injector o-rings, are they vital to be replaced? Is there a size I could use from a local source?
Thanks all
I can see this question has been asked many times. I’m
stuck on this too, Audi S4 B8. Were u able to solve this?
@@garethwood4316 yeah i ended up just forcing it off. I think i lightly levered it with a screwdriver (using a rag to prevent scratching) and then just man-handled it off. its caused by insufficient lube on the injector seals and so make sure you put something on them before reinstalling.
oh and i reused the seals. I just checked them carefully for any damage and i think i flipped them over as one side does more work.
Having the same difficulties lol, about to try and gently pry it.
@pcveuro can you do a video for PCV replacement on 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T? Or, do you have any reference guides? Thank you
Gonna be very similar steps. Same engine
Your da bomb doing this on my moms SQ5 should be the same right?
Same process, good luck!!
I do appreciate the video, but what good does it do for the installers, like me
who don’t have a mechanic background, to speed up certain parts where you’re putting stuff together and working around wires and hoses..
Wow! This looks super involved. All those electrical components to undo, hoses and lines. This looks outside my comfort zone, but would cost over $2,000 at a dealer or even import garage. How long did this actually take in real time? Also have to vacuum/bleed the coolant looks to be an issue without the proper tools. I also read you have to get the ECM reprogrammed due to the lower pressure after a PCV Body is replaced. Is this true? if so, that's like an another $200 dollars. Is this also for the Q5 3.0T?
Will a bad pcv unit cause coolant to mix with oil
This note is on the linked website for the crankcase pressure valave: "Note: When The Repair Is Finished, You Will Need To Update The ECM Level At The Dealership. The New ECM Level Will Allow The Crankcase Pressure Valve To Operate At Lower Operating Pressures." What are your thoughts?
That should only be the case if you bought the newer part number and had the older one installed.
Great video I was able to replace mine with this video.
Excellent video!!! Thanks very much. Can the fuel rail line be reused or does it have to be replaced? Any issues with leaks if it is reused?
the fuel rail is built into the "flapper body" so yes you should reuse it unless you broke it or is damaged prior. I would give you the advice as a VW enthusiast gave to me: turn the flapper over and make sure your gaskets aren't stuck in the ports because they most likely are. 2nd probably should replace the injector o-rings and plastic brace (green bit in the injector seal kit) 3rd is get some permatex synthetic lube and lube the o-ring making sure its on the injector under the lip
my pcv and cats went at the same time on my b8. ive always wondered if my pcv went first and i didnt notice and driving with it caused the cats to melt
Is important to leave flaps open or closed before installing tumble housing ?
When I installed the tumble housing I don't remember if it was open or closed. I started the car(2015 q7 v6 ) everything seemed to be fine until I connected my obdscaner p2006 came on intake manifold runner control stuck bank 1 .if it is stuck how do I solve this problem. Does it affect the performance of the car?
@@fcamtero did you ever find out I just did the same thing
I have a Porsche hybrid with same engine I get the fault p2279 intake air system leak do I need to change the pvc or does the pvc have normally different fault code
How did you get that coolant return pipe off? I am stuck here....
very good video nice work 👍🏻 i have a question please what is the name of the pipe in the minute 15:40 or what is the part number
Is there a part number for the cold air intake on this vehicle? I realize it's an older vid, but figured I'd ask.
Would you recommend disconnecting the battery so the fuel pump doesn't run when the door is open?
Is this pcv make coolant leak?
Is this pct valve the same for Audi Q5 3.2 engine or different pvc. Valve
What is the part number for the coolant pipe O-ring? Also on a 2013 do the injectors need to be removed? Thanks
Is this the same for the 2010 A6 Quattro supercharger 3.0
if you get a soft code scan of PCV Regulator Valve Performance code P052E0 does this always mean the pcv needs replacement?my 14 sq4 drives fine with no dash cels and has normal pressure unscrewing the oil while running
Did you have to replace it? Just had this code as well with no CEL illumination
Is it possible to replace directly the pcv valve and didnt touch original oil separator?
14:56 do yourself a favor and buy a "ICON Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set" for that T30
I have a 2016 Q5 with a suspect PCV. Oil hits the ground after operating under boost conditions and shut down in a short time period. Never under normal driving. High crank case vacuum with engine at idle will collapse an oil bottle. Less than 42 thousand when I purchased at auction and was already occurring. Every thing else is tip top.
Can a bad pcv cause an oil leak that is significant or possibly the oil valley pan maybe cracked? Have a leak but seems like it coming from inside engine but cant tell where. Was told it could be one of these 2 parts.
This is also appliccable to the 2015 Q5 with the 3.0T engine, right? I dont see any mention of the Q5 with the 3.0T in the description or on the blog post.
Yes!
FCP euro are there any differences with the A6 C7 and B8.5 (your title) in terms of 3.0t engine? How long is the job to do on this particular model, PM service?
@FCP Euro I bought your Ultimate Breather Kit, which comes with everything I need to change everything under the supercharger at once. I'm in the middle of reassembly on my 2014 S4. The engine crankcase breather hose is different, as I guess Audi added an electronic check valve where your plastic one is. Do you have a feasible workaround for this? The molded tubing is not coming off of the barbed fitting at the check valve, or I'd just swap hoses. The one on my check valve is cracked, and not reusable.I literally can make no further progress, so if anyone else reads this and has dealt with the issue, please advise. Thanks so much.
I have a 2015 s5 3.0tfsi which needs an intake manifold potential air leak identified with engine management light. Quoted 4.5 hours of labour just to strip and investigate. Will it really take this long? Or is the dealer pulling a fast one?
Getting ready to do this myself. I was looking at the pcv for the B8.5 and in the description it says after the repair to update the ECM at the dealership. Is that only necessary if installing on a B8?
@davesavst did you ever get an answer to this ?
@@tzvihakakian4035 I did not, but I did replace it a year ago and it’s been fine since.