Kawasaki H1 500 Crankshaft inspection and rebuild
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2023
- An inspection and repair of a Kawasaki H1 500 crankshaft, what to look for and parts layout for repair.
This crank needs a full overhaul to get it back to a useable condition, in the video I explain in detail how to go about carry out the task, there will be another couple of videos to mention all that is needed, the tools and sequences to get it right first time.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for rebuild of my crankshaft on video
It was a real pleasure to do the old girl and bring her back to life, can't wait to hear her running again, cheers.
Thanks for posting. I am about to start rebuilding a 1973 H1 engine. Would love to see your procedure for taking the crank apart and pressing back together again. Nice job.
Tools needed for taking apart a Kawasaki H1 crankshaft.
Start taking things apart from the generator end which is on the right of the picture.
All you need is the cheap ball in bearing puller set to do all bearings.
Notice my crank pressing tower, 14 inches high, 5 inches inside diameter with a slot cut on one side at 10 inches deep to centre hole drilled/cut away the slotted area, the wall thickness 3/8", the tube is made from an old hydraulic ram, ideal for the job, any good hydraulics company will have old rams to obtain this.
The splitter plate is made from a 6 inch square of 8.00mm steel plate with a slot that can span the big end of the conrod you are working with, you will need different sizes and widths of plate for different cranks; This best supports the crank securely. To make this simply drill the size of hole needed to span the big end in use and cut the waste out to leave a fork or slot to slide between the webs of the crank.
Start taking things apart from the gererator end and work your way across the crank making sure not to damage or crush the oil plates, these are of different sizes to match the different sized bearing on this crank, try not to get these mixed up.
The older cranks had inferior main seals them having no nipping springs and relied on crankcase pressure to close down the lips, the newer seals are far superior being fiitted with the springs, and will produce a better running engine and have better longevity
Use the same tools as I have shown in the previous video, for the smaller bearings, I used the ball in bearing types, you have to remove the bearing cages to use these ball end types, and for the larger bearings you could also use the same puller with larger ball ends.
Like all cranks make sure to photograph, making notes of where all the bearings and how they are fitted together.
On this crank there is a ringed locating bearing third from the main drive side, make sure you fit this correctly.
These are very easy cranks to build having pegged main bearing shafts/webs probably the easiest crank I have done.
Everything is made so there is no need to measure the widths, all parts press up firm and leave the correct gaps throughout.
When you come to balance it after completing the build always begin dialing in from the centre web itself using two gauges at the same time and work your way outwards to either end, IE, take readings from on top of the bearings and you will get a better balanced unit later.
If you look at my equipment in my other videos you should be able to do the task, a pressing tube is by far the best way of holding the crank whilst pressing on the bearings etc, the tubed type tower gives superior positioning and holds things much more accurately, you will also need two decent bed plates with a hole large enough to surround the bearings when pressing out the inner main bearing shafts.
My pressing tube is 14 inches tall, 5 inch diameter with a slot of 10 inches deep for the conrods to clear whilst pressing, it is made from seamless hydraulic ram tube, wall thickness 3/8", really sturdy and ideal for the task.
For more see my facebook page link.
I will do another H1 crank and full video soon.
@@user-ho4sk8mg4j Wow! Thank you so much for the detailed disassembly information! I am at the point now of trying to remove the cylinders from the case. This bike sat in a barn on the ground for 6 years, and there is evidence of water damage. Not looking forward to what I may find inside. I saw another video of a clever way to help lift the cylinders by tapping the top holes and using bolts against the top of the cylinder studs to help lift off the case. I need to order the metric tap and bolts.
@@bobwish51 You ae most welcome Bob, please ask if you have any other questions.
That's my crankshaft done a cracking job
Great video thanks. Now I would like to re assemble. Have you done that video yet….?
are you doing or have you done a rebuild video yet