Infrared Remote Control Activated LIGHTS & APPLIANCES
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- In this video I will show you an excellent circuit which I designed to turn ON and OFF any 120V light or appliance up to 10 Amps using any infrared remote control. The circuit can also be modified for 240V use as well(Line & Neutral). The device shown in this video has been plugged in 24hrs/day for the past year with ZERO issues. The circuit is highly resistant to false triggering, and has a very long range. Please watch the video for more information.
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I'm going to build this and hack it into my mom's coffee machine so she can get out of bed with her coffee already made. It's going to be a great present, thanks for the designs!
This would work great for my c/p handicapped son. He already is having to manage 5 remotes with him for his entertainment and other devices.
This would free him from a couple of remotes and give him access to control many other simple on/off devices with no additional controllers. To remark that this is a great Idea is an understatement!
I was going to sell these because everyone I showed it to wanted one, but I have yet to do so.
Thanks For Watching!
Could you possible produce the PCB's for the project? That is something that I would have difficulty with.
I would utilize a dozen of these devices for my son.
I'm sorry, but I only upload videos showing others how to do things. I don't have the extra time.
electronicsNmore Thank you anyway.
I do understand the effort you have to expend to design and prototype these electronic projects!
I have learned more from you than any other source.
At 60 years old and being an armature radio operator for all but 13 of them I still only have a limited understanding of electronic design.
Thanks for making the designs and the calculations of the workings of the designs relevant!
Unique and professional. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and posting a well done tutorial.
+Abdulelah Alzahrani You're Welcome!
Thanks for sharing your ideas. Great tutorial, greatly appreciated. I have a question though, can use IC556 instead?
Great circuit and nice housing too.
Unfortunately the images are off!! :(
You mean links. I just fixed them.
Yes, thanks man!
Hi, I am very new to Fritzing and electronics an am enjoying every moment so far specially with you tutorials and demonstrations. Question: Is it possible to use an existing PCB image like you have provided and import it back into Fritzing or is it a process where you have to start from the begining again ?
You can use my image. You need to make sure the size is correct and use a laser printer with transfer paper. I have a video showing how to make a PCB.
Great idea. Thanks for the share!
Your welcome!
Like the new title. Great informative video as always.
I was due for a new intro. :-)
Thanks For Watching!
If I wanted the casing, what should I use? This is the first kind of electronic device I'm going to try making.
+Regtic
Look for an inexpensive 120V wall timer for a lamp.
hi sir,,can you suggest any idea if i can use the old indoor unit of a/c,the infrared control if i can use it?
What about the safety of the sensor-extension-lead? There is a 50% chance that the sensor will be "hot" in regard to mains ground.
Yeah I agree, transformerless powersupplies like this should NEVER have exposed connections, the neutral is considered a 'live' wire. And some 220/240v outlets are NOT polarized
If you are concerned, then do not use the extension wire. The IR module can be installed inside the plastic housing to eliminate any chance of contact. I have never had any issues. Of course you would not be playing with the connections while the unit it powered. You remove or install the connector/module then plug it in. You can also use a COMPLETELY insulated extension wire/module. If your worried about the Line and Neutral in the receptacle being wired backwards, then add a reverse polarity protection circuit to this circuit. You will eliminate the problem. A Neutral wire only becomes Hot when it is disconnected from ground while the circuit is being supplied by a Hot wire. It is the users responsibility to make sure their receptacle is properly wired before using this circuit. Clearly people who know very little about electricity, would not and should not be making this circuit.
I would first look at the diagrams and then express my opinion. If you had, you would probably have seen that there is no risk of being electrocuted because receiver is completely isolated (safetywise) and transformer produces low value voltage. The whole device is design to be powered at all times with a back up battery and it is safe because it was built by the expert which you definitely ain't. And no, there is no 50% chance, but only 0.0001% chance that sensor may become hot. I wonder where do you get your statistics from? Another thing, there was a disclaimer which you clearly missed at the begining of that video and during. And how many devices have you guys built and share those ideas on youtube tutorials???
VanClaaude Usually I don't get bitchy but have you done what you suggest and looked at the diagrams? If so you'd notice there's NO transformer and it's not isolated
No there is not. I apologise! I did look at it, but I was more focused on the central part of the circuit. Still, the voltage past the bridge is low DC and supposed to be only between 5-12v. So the supply for the TSOP sensor would be the most 5Vin unless is short circuit.
nicely done :)
What is the availability of the circuit board and do you recommend any supplier for the components?
Nels Wight You have to make your own board using my layout. I have a video showing how it is done. Ebay has many suppliers. Be sure to share and rate Thumbs Up. Thanks.
ua-cam.com/video/lvNCKwAcg90/v-deo.html
Do I understand correctly that the electronics of your design can function on 12v and also control 12v devices by giving 12v to the relay contacts?
Nels Wight Yes.
Is there a delay for 'on'? Can there be no delay for 'off'?
Been a while. Where in the video?
Like!
On your component list it says you're using a 556ic but I only see 6-8 pins on your circuit, would an ic 555 be able to do the same job?
+Regtic
Hello. The schematic clearly shows a 14 pin IC.
oh sorry, I realized there are numbers on each pin which indicate each pin, I was just looking at the labels (discharge, threshold, etc). I've googling a lot of the stuff on your schematic and I'm new to building electronics. Thanks
Hi
Could this be made to control 12v devices?
Nels Wight Yes. Instead of using 120V on the relay contacts, use 12V.
what are the things I need for this.plz say
+Manitha Pasandul
Everything you need to know is in the video description area. Thanks.
This is it right
+Leafred Rolle
This is my design, the other video on my channel is a simpler circuit you can make.
+electronicsNmore what's your opinion on the one I showed Yu in that link? I've alredy started Tht one
I don't have any opinion because I never put that circuit together. It does operate in a similar manner. I love to keep chatting back and forth, but I do have over 300 videos with many other people asking questions. I cannot spend too much time with one person.
Thank You
+electronicsNmore ok thanks a lot anyway
Maybe someone here with the expertise to etch the boards could lend me a hand with this. My son has C/P, is a quad with only the use of his left hand. He carries around on his wheelchair tray a plethora of remotes. These are all dedicated to a small amount of devices that he seeks to control.
This project would be a great benefit to him in controlling a great many electrical devices around his home that otherwise he depends on others to initiate.
If any of you making this project could make me boards as you make your own I can drill and assemble them.
And we would be so grateful and most willing to compensate you if the cost is not prohibitive and the designer is agreeable.
I seek not capitol gain, only to enrich a brain trapped in a immobile body.
Sincerely,
KB5EAU
It is easy to do. You need to take my pcb layout(black one)and go online(Ebay) to have a PCB made. You can get 10 made for cheap. Contact the seller before buying. You need thick copper 70um/1.6mm. If you use 35um, make sure the wide traces are covered in solder!
www.ebay.com/itm/Low-cost-Good-Quality-PCB-Board-Manufacture-Etching-2-8Layer-Lot-process-/300742997636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4605adf684
Thank you very much!