Had to buy a cone and bridge for the shell I bought back in '64. Local music store had them in stock but the cone was not National. Bridge stayed in position without any attachment. Added a 7th string, a high G in third position. Had the decal so no woodburned name.
That is a minty cone... Thank you for the look inside look! I am studying you videos to make a neckstick and supports for a gold tone gre that someone removed and left it vulnerable with only a single bolt holding the neck on:-\. The body , relatively thick steel started caving under the fretboard extension... It's a project:-)
I have a doulian with a C289 serial on the head stock. Stamped f holes, not rounded. Fret board was sort of a rubber like thing that was replaced with ebony. The rest of the guitar is all original. Was wondering if you would know what year it was made and what the value would be? Not ever planning to sell , but was just curious.
You mentioned that the bridge had been shaved off radically to lower the action. But yet some downward angle is needed between the bridge and the tailpiece. If the truss rod does not yield enough movement to lower the action, what can be done to mitigate this situation? What would be the ideal string to fret clearance at the 1st fret and again at the 19th fret?
How do you remove the fret marker dots to remove the neck, in the least destructive fashion? Replacing the dots might not be much of a problem but removing them could be delicate.
I have one a 1931 and it needs to go to the doctor. These videos are absolutely exactly what I was looking for. How do I contact this guy? Is he still doing restorations?
Had to buy a cone and bridge for the shell I bought back in '64. Local music store had them in stock but the cone was not National. Bridge stayed in position without any attachment. Added a 7th string, a high G in third position. Had the decal so no woodburned name.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed this, I had fun making it.
Best, Lenny
Stunning condition Duolian. Dream guitar.
That is a minty cone... Thank you for the look inside look! I am studying you videos to make a neckstick and supports for a gold tone gre that someone removed and left it vulnerable with only a single bolt holding the neck on:-\. The body , relatively thick steel started caving under the fretboard extension... It's a project:-)
I have a doulian with a C289 serial on the head stock. Stamped f holes, not rounded. Fret board was sort of a rubber like thing that was replaced with ebony. The rest of the guitar is all original. Was wondering if you would know what year it was made and what the value would be? Not ever planning to sell , but was just curious.
You mentioned that the bridge had been shaved off radically to lower the action. But yet some downward angle is needed between the bridge and the tailpiece. If the truss rod does not yield enough movement to lower the action, what can be done to mitigate this situation? What would be the ideal string to fret clearance at the 1st fret and again at the 19th fret?
wow a beautiful guitar
I want to build me a resonator guitar.
now I know how it looks inside
Thank you.
When it is ready, I'll show pictures of it
So... have you finished it?
How do you remove the fret marker dots to remove the neck, in the least destructive fashion? Replacing the dots might not be much of a problem but removing them could be delicate.
i guess you could undo the nuts and pop up the bolt to remove the two outer dots, or a scalpel from the top probably
I would like to speak to you about a national Duolian that was my grandpas.
Is there a name for that 'frosted window' appearance of the body metal finish? Is it an etch? Slightly reminiscent of galvanization.
'Duco', as he said a couple times.
I have one a 1931 and it needs to go to the doctor. These videos are absolutely exactly what I was looking for. How do I contact this guy? Is he still doing restorations?
It’s called a Duco or Frosted Duco finish.
Where's the little spider that lived in there?