Bonnet cable experiment. How much weight will a modified Britpart cable take?
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
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Hope you had you steel toed boots on there, Mike. Spat my Twix out when you were putting the third battery on. Wish I could solder.... such a ‘basic’ skill that I intend to ‘master’..
I always have rigger boots on - I get them from the UK!
Soldering is pretty easy - you just need the right heat range -- many use a flame but it is too sever - the Weller gun comes in different heat ranges and has a 2 'speed' setting on the trigger = 200w and 260w I think that is all we can muster on 110V
Bloody hell Mike, the look in your eyes when it held 3 batteries, you looked like a mad professor who had invented an anti gravity machine. ---- So what has this experiment proved???? EASY!!!! to open your bonnet, add 3 batteries to the cable.--- Great video Mike , please send more of. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
I really wanted to use my hydraulic puller but there would be no way to measure the force without a gauge
Nice bit of fun!
Mike
That's what it is all about Mike. FUN!!!
Mike!!!! You are nuts 😂😂😂😂
Stress relief...
Mike's Harp! Get thi wallet on it, ya know ya can as long as you havn't given thi brass to t insurance company. Keep em coming Mike we love it.
I enjoyed the Weller joke. That's Entertainment!
nice one!
G'Day Mike. Been watching this mini series with great interest as my STOCK Td5 Bonnet release cable went fubar and completely snapped the plastic handle in half (no spare wheel on the bonnet).
Now I don't know why but on my Td5 the release cable is mounted to the left side of the drivers foot well on a RHD deefer. So the cable has to do a very peculiar route to get from the front slam panel to the operation handle. In my frustration I just cut the cable short at the front grill and left a bit of the bare cable just hanging out. Now what I would like to do is mount the same system as what the Australian Defence Force used on its defenders. Its a small lever that sticks out the front of the grill and has a straight pull to the release catch of about 10-15cm. The down side is I can't find any of the parts to do this so I may just have to make my own. But at least now I know roughly how strong any soldering I do to the cable is going to be and what I can expect it to be capable of. So thanks Mike :)
Look for MRC6977
Obsolete form LR but there is a lot of ex MoD out there
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike, glad you know the part number, I couldn't find squat! lol
“Unbelievable” 🤣 the excitement in your voice had me in tears 👍🏻
Great stuff 👍 like watching Myth-Buster's 😃 but better 😎
Think I’ll be getting out the solder out😆 good job
I was amazed the handle didn't break off!
Im not sure whats more impressive the cable or that bungee strap haha
The plumbers flux really helps clean the bits and make a good joint.
Must remember to wash it off as it will corrode the material
@@BritannicaRestorations Good point Mike, soapy water
Hi Mike very well done as always very great help many thanks Eliot
Thanks!
Mike
That was a good one! Does the genuine needs soldering as well you think or not?
That cable might be long enough now.
That’s entertainment 😀
No raccoons were injured in this video!
...I would say "Mike's on the pull"......but even I won't stoop that low.... :)
Oh dear Paul! Back to the barn! Lol!
so - how much weight will an unsoldered one take? You know it makes sense!
I didn't have two but from experience, my Raccoon could pull off the handle
I used to have one of those Weller soldering irons way back in the 1970s did not no they was still around I found it to big and clumsy for most jobs. That soldered joint worked great but seeing you put those batteries hanging like that I would have put something soft for it to land I was expecting one to hit the hard floor and crack open I also thought that you should have put some eye protection on with that wait on it if it let go the cable would have shot out in any direction.
dead batteries full of water ( or ice ) now
How much force does it take to pull the bonnet release?
Good question - I do not have a STD vehicle in the yard to try but I will check it out - I would have thought if set up right no more than 1 kg
And this is why you can't get building insurance. :-P
Doing these experiments so you don't have to!
Great demonstration of the holding power of the soldered joint but I had visions of your batteries crashing to the concrete floor and depositing spilt acid over your feet and legs. 😳
Dead batteries used for exchange
Lambretta’s and Vespa’s have similar issues. Soldered end caps and cable adjusters are worth looking at and really cheap.
6:59 I'm now hanging on to see if Mike is going to step into the loop and suspend himself. Go on, go on, go on... you know you should. Do you have another unsoldered cable to see if it fails out-the-box?
I could not get my leg over....
Keep the videos coming. Don’t let the insurance man watch this one . 🤔
I will never work in this town again... lol!
Joking aside, I am finding these interesting as I am looking for a way to extend (move) a stop cable on my catamaran so I can kill the engine from the helm. It will need to be around 14ft long. I had been messing with bicycle parts as I hadn't imagined that wagons still used stop cables like this. So I need to find a truck factors. Also, I had not considered using solder (odd as I am an avionics eng, it didn't occur).
Questions: If I use a solid wire what sort of radius could I bend, is it more or less forgiving than twisted cable? I don't mind having to reset the stop manually as it adds an extra layer of security?
Solid cables are less forgiving than flexible ones - they need large sweeps
For a long distance you only need the outer supporting at the ends - the inner cable can be bare like on a bicycle, and you could run round rollers for corners - quite easy to do
Like here
bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18255/why-does-cable-routing-utilize-alternation-of-sections-of-shielded-and-unshielde
@@BritannicaRestorations Brilliant, I had already considered bare cable across the bridge-deck, but rollers will solve many problems I have considered would stop my plans. One of my issues is concern that the spring on the engine stop lever (little 1GM10 Yanmar) would struggle to pull the cable back, hence my interest in solid cable. I don't want to fit solenoids as being a boat KISS is always best. Currently I have to go into the boat to the engine room to stop the motor, this is a pain. Thank you for your reply Mike, you have given me an idea to work with.
@Lancashirelad Agreed, do you think that might add unnecessary strain to the stop wire, probably not? The spring in place doesn't seem that strong. If I go down the solid wire route and with Mike's idea of rollers (this answers the problem giving me a big headache of the 90° turn from under the cockpit floor up the helm). I'd have to look at the engine, I don't think the spring is external which is a shame as it might be easier to swap for a stronger spring. The thoughts I have about the strain are not because it will be too heavy to pull, but the more work I expect from it, the more tie-downs I'll need to add or any unmounted curves will just try to pull straight? I'm really beginning to warm to the idea of retrofitting a solenoid.
@Lancashirelad I have an image of the port engine room setup showing the stop cable this is short and directly under the helm. You can see the unsoldered pull stop, but this has been changed since as the cables (especially the sheave) corrode quite badly in the salt air. I can't see anywhere to easily attach a spring, but the photo may be deceptive. I think for the long run solid wire may solve many of my worries and it wouldn't need to retract as I would do that. www.topcatsail.co.uk/Albums/images/sailing/2008-06-30-port-engine-room.jpg
I was expecting you to put your foot through the loop, and swing on it like Tarzan!
Good God Dave - think about the insurance! lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations They're probably watching your videos! Make sure they subscribe, like, and leave a thumbs up!
Would not surprise me at all Dave!
Blimey, Mike you like to live dangerously, lead acid batteries dangling over a concrete floor.......
Dropped one once getting it out of a car, there was acid everywhere, take care we need to see more videos.
These batteries were dead acid turned to water
I think your winding down to retirement 😂
It would be quite interesting to know how much a standard part and an unsoldered Britpart one would support... not that Im suggesting you should!
I only had 1 BP cable and I figured if I tested it first I would not get it back together as it came out of the factory = I will buy one and try it in my next order!
I was expecting after taking the batteries off. Rubbing chin "I wonder......" Hooking foot into pink rope.
"224 pounds"
Too risky for the insurance lol!
What insurance... 🤔
Why not cut through the soldered joint in increments and see how far the solder ran...After soldering wipe off the excess with a cotton rag.
I think you should have put your wallet on it Mike. Surely that’s heavy enough!
Not after this week...
LoL!
Make a crackin tow rope 😂😂😂
wear some goggles please (no I'm not the insurance guy, just German ;-)
Daft bugger, insurance men have messed with your mind.
Therapy!