I continue watching because of your trial and error approach. I enjoy watching the process. On a side note, I do A LOT of parametric modeling (on shape, fusion, solid works) and if you need something modeled or need help walking through the process I'm willing to lend that help. My professional background is in 3d printing for the Air Force, specifically material characterization for SLS and FDM 3d printers. I own 6 printers myself and sell a few things here and there. No Etsy store just word of mouth type thing right now. I spent a good bit of time tinkering on them learning all the quirks and designing solutions for them. I also have printers that just work so that I can prototype without tinkering. Appreciate the content! Peace ✌️
I have been watching your daily updates for the last month or so. The quality of the content is going up and I wanted to thank you for your candor. It is nice to watch someone try to grow a startup and the information is invaluable.
Interesting fail on the rectilinear infill! So much to adjust for on huge prints. I believe it is barely touching the wall and then retracting inward as it cools. You'd probably need to increase the infiill wall overlap to get it to connect better and using grid instead of rectilinear would probably make the infill more solid. That said the double or hollow wall suggestion by another commenter is a really good one! Congrats on 2K.
I'm wondering if the issue you're having is caused by over-tensioning the drive motors as the extruder draws on the filament spool when the print head is on the far corner of the print volume. Motor set-ups like these are often internally limited to prevent twisting or warping the guide rails on the X & Y axis. This theory is supported by observing the amount of slack in the filament when the print head moves out of the extreme corner. To ease the strain on the drive motors you could do either: Re-orient the filament spool towards the center of the print bed, depending on the mounting of the spool base. Use a weighted pulley on a spring to pre-tension the filament at the extreme corner and lessen the load on the drive motors and extruder. Use PTFE tubing and a support arm to direct the filament out of the spool holder towards the center of the print bed and then downwards to be over the center of the print bed. With this method, the distance from the end of the guide tube to the print head is almost the same, regardless of position at a given height. The demand on the extruder will also decrease as it will be pulling the filament at a high angle. That said, it could also be because the infill percentage is too low and the slicer has a difficult time accounting for the variance due to the size of the model. I'm interested to see what the solution will be? If I'm right, any chance a little ole gal like me could get a roll or two of filament?
2:00 SV08 print issue looks like under extrusion. Maybe it's the extruder being weak but it's more likely that the specific filament that you're using needs to be tuned in your slicer settings. I would recommend switching to Orca Slicer for every machine that you can and using the built in calibration tests for each filament. Different colors of filament have different pigments which can effect how they flow even if it's the same brand! 3:00 Giga infill issue #1 with it being stringy is probably because it's rectilinear and that infill pattern alternates the direction of lines for each layer of infill. In small prints it's not noticeable but for giga prints I would try using ADAPTIVE CUBIC infill and increase the infill % way higher than you normally would because adaptive cubic creates more infill at the walls where it's needed but leaves bigger empty spaces in the middle. 3:16 Giga infill issue #2 with it not sticking is probably partly related to how cold it is in your garage, partly because of the bad infill type, partly because of infill overlap settings... Basically the infill is cooling down too fast and those long lines of infill are shrinking which pulls itself off of the wall. In Orca Slicer you can sandwich in the infill anchor to the wall by using "alternate extra wall" and increasing "infill/wall overlap" to 115% but you might not even need it with adaptive cubic infill because the infill will have shorter spans near the walls that won't shrink as much.
A common issue on the SV08 is the idler gear pin slides out, if you start seeing weird under extrusion issues after tightening that knob; look under the faceplate to see if it has slipped out. You can just push it back in and there are a few models on printables and such to keep it in place.
I watch for a few reasons. I like the process, I like the inspiration, I like that you do so many different things trying to figure out what works, I like that you’re transparent about what does and doesn’t work, and I like that you engage with people when we comment and stuff. You let people help you and it’s cool to see when we say stuff you take our advice. And I like knowing when I wake up there’s a video to start my day with
Scrubbing through the slicing preview is a really good habit to get into. You can learn all kinds of things about how the slicers work, slicing is really where the magic happens. Every infill pattern has a use, and some are better suited to different models.
I grew up in eastern NC so I know the bird store you're talking about, and I like that idea of taking your product local to drive sales. In addition to the fake wasp nest a lot of people like placing those fake owls in the yard to scare off other birds and rodents. They're pretty hollow, you could probably mock one up for cheap. Keep it up!
I would think this is a good example of a case where 3dPrinting can be super beneficial. The bird store don't have to order and stock hundreds or thousands of mold injected items. You print a few for them. If they sell, you print some more... They don't have to be shipped from China.
Yeah, I watch because I’m new to 3d printing, and I like your trial-and-error approach. Not everyone can afford to do that, but the industry is advancing fast, so I think there is a lot that both you and I can learn from that. I also like that you have multiple printers. Viewers can compare them for what they want a little better. In other words, your slap dash approach is a benefit in the current tech revolution, in my opinion. Honestly, you’re the only one printing big.
@TechnicalsTinkers I'm in North charleston SC. I like the videos!! I recently ran into some heart problems which are keeping me from doing my normal job of being a mobile field technician for Ryder Logistics so I'm having to look for less physical activities . I looked for office job but Ryder had none available in my area so as I was contemplating on what to do next the 3d printing was looking appealing and I believe there is money to be made, my only thing is trying to get the machines needed to make a go of it. That's why I like your videos because I'm have no income at the moment and your videos give me a direction I definitely need a multi colored printing, printer and some of your ambition!! I don't do videos so I just try and keep up with what's online. I'm 54 and I don't need alot of income lol I'm lucky most of what I own is paid for so that's a real plus for me. But keep up the good work and the sometime failure hey its a lot of trial and error so keep the vids coming!!
not long started watching your videos but just wanted to say thankyou had a similar issues with layers after changing nozzle re.heated the nozzle and re tightened works perfectly now :D creality k1 and ke
I have been watching for a couple of months now and enjoy the content. Your sense of humor is funny and inline with my own. Great job and keep up the great content.
If you tune your volumetric flow for each filament you can increase speeds without touching your print profile speed settings. Look just below the temp section in a filament profile. Most filament profiles are pre configured for slower printing to ensure that all prints have the best chance of completing. For example the Generic PETG profile has a default speed of 2/mm3 yet you can increase this to 8 or 10 and cut your print time in 1/3 😊
I’m just getting started with 3D Printing. I’ve wanted one for a long time but consumer grade printers finally seem to be able to be able make a product that doesn’t just look like plastic junk. I know cad well enough to design stuff but I’m far from proficient with it yet. Would love to make a side gig out of printing and selling functional items, but realistically I know that isn’t easy unless stars align for you.
Do I have to watch the video at half the speed to see the piece of paper cause I watched it twice and haven't seen no piece of paper with no code written on it, nice trick to get people to watch it more than once
@@TechnicalsTinkers cant DM you on x because only verified users can send direct messages request two people that don't follow them, and I didn't realize you created a discord channel
Congrats on the 2k. Interested in the daily schedule hearing about your journey. For me, there is no need for give away, just keep doing what you are doing. Habit forming ;)
I’m watching your channel because like you I’m discovering the process and how and what works. I am pretty isolated so it helps me not feeling alone doing that. Keep up the good work. My business is niche and very different than yours but the process is pretty much the same. I’m far from selling physical prints, I don’t have the production space for it, my goal is to eventually get studio space and consider a print farm to complement my digital sales with physical sales.
If you haven't already, please please please replace the hotend on your sovol with the Microswiss Flowtech. It's 50 bucks on Amazon right now and it's plug and play -- remove the old one -- install the new one, and you're good to go. You need to run the PID tuning and recalibrate your rotation_distance for the extruder after you do it, because this new nozzle/hotend is was easier on the extruder. When I replaced mine I found that it was extruding TWICE what it was with the old hotend. So the extruder was working really really hard with the old one. I get amazing accuracy and much more even/cleaner prints with this hotend. PLUS you can change the nozzle out cold!
I only watch because of your blunt and funny comments. I’m sure your wife get’s tired of it, but guys are guys. You are witty and it’s interesting watching you search for the dollar. There are way easier ways to make a buck.
I definitely watch for the trial and error and cost-concious approach. Unlike the big 3d printing content providers, some of us can't just throw money at everything😁
Dude had same thing with yellow from Bambu, its not just you. They are sending me new rolls of yellow because of the filament rolls are done wrong. I had one roll that was so out of wack I could not even put it on refill roll. As for the Moai statue, your gonna have issues with that once it get higher up, might warp since the infill is not supporting the sides at all. As far as I know that loose stringing infill is due to not being connected to the sides so its just stringing it across. If it comes out in the end, I would suggest who ever purchases it fill it with foam and some weight because there is going to be no weight in the inside do to that bad infill. I suggest do some research on how to do infill because on large prints it will save you a lot of fails in future. I do not own a giga, but I have a CR-10 S5 which is 500x500x500 and had to relearn everything because of size compared to smaller printers. Good luck though.
If you are thinking about local sales the Maoi would work as a Garden ornament, any local Garden stores? Similarly a large bird house/feeder might be someething you could look at. Only issue for both is that PLA I probably isn't ideal for extended periods outside. Keep up the good work
that infill is very well known for doing that cause it prints one direction at one height then crosses on next height ... how ever i never use grid ... i use gyroid infill its one of the more sturdy infills from alot of peoples testing
Gyroid shakes way too much from accelerating/decelerating constantly to form the curves. 3d Honeycomb in Orca Slicer is very similar but makes the paths more linear so it shakes much less. That said, I wouldn't recommend either for huge prints. Adaptive Cubic should be the obvious choice for large prints because it will leave the center area more hollow with more of the support near the walls where it is needed.
I watch cause im a terrible sleeper and when I wake up randomly your videos habe been posted. On on the west coast. I also like the character models and large print idea. I like watching your thought process and innuendo comments. I also watched a couple times and havent seen the code. I think the moai is a loss with the infill failure.
About your hornet nest.... have you thought of printing it in ASA? ASA is UV/waterproof and can stand higher temps. PLA will melt or deform on a warm day or in direct sunlight plus absorbs water. If you go to the bird store that could be a bullet point perk on the hornet nest offering as being able to survive in the elements or long time in the sun......unlike PLA. Just my free two cents
I'm beating my head on the table saying why doesn't he try a double skin wall on the giant prints and stop wasting time and filament on almost useless infill, happy to have a go hollowing out the Maoi model for you.
@@TechnicalsTinkers Yes... i'll try to describe the process, you take the completely solid model, pull it into some cad/design package and use the "hollow" feature so you end up with a 10mm wall with empty space on the inside, when you slice this the slicer only slices the 10mm wall... so you have 2 wall loops 10mm apart with gyroid/conic infill in between. This makes a quite stable shell, good for overhangs and good for very top areas of the print... you can use a "height range modifier" to increase the infill % at the very top of the print so you get a good finish.
Ummm... Sparse infill prints way faster (thicker extrusion every 2 layers at max speed) and generally uses way less filament than wall loops (depends on pattern and % but with sane settings it's lower) so hollowing out the inside and creating a 1 cm "shell" in CAD is a terrible idea that would be a pain to even try. Adaptive Cubic infill is great for huge prints and is a simple slicer setting.
OK, you asked why your viewers watch your program. I can't speak for others but for me I have no f'ing idea. We are likely extremely far apart both philosophically and politically (plus I'm Canadian). But, being retired and spending some of my time watching UA-cam I have been watching pretty much all of your daily update. I have an A1 and an A1Mini so I'm interested in 3D printing. I do enjoy your candor and telling folks what you are doing and why and not trying to hide that with some kind of Bullshit. Now, onto design. I too started with TinkerCad and my first comment is that if it is working for you, keep using it. However, I have started down the Fusion 360 path and I've been following the videos from Paul McWhorter which I found to be one of the better training aids out there. But, like anything, you do have to keep at it and I find that when I don't use it for a couple of weeks I have to go back to his videos to "remember" what to do (but then I'm in my 70s if that has anything to do with it). BUT, my larger comment is that, as you've discovered, there are many similarities between CAD programs so part of the equation needs to be cost. I'd suggest learning Fusion or another product that has a really good online training component and then look at costs. Fusion is not cheap. Fine for me as don't sell product but it would be a hit to your profit if you used it, especially at the start. But again, if TinkerCad can so what you want to do then keep using it, especially in the short, perhaps until you find that you have a requirement for something more advanced. Anyway, keep them coming, looking forward to the large Easter Island Statue. And yes that infill looks weird but heck if it works for this print and you remember to check out the slicer results next time then great.
Hi , why not give FreeCad V1 a go - part option is almost like tinkercad think there is also a option to use tinkercad menu alike. You can the slowly move to Part Design option I still use Part option most of the time! When you slice your model why don't you check the infill you should be able to see if infill wall is solid, when sliding the layers slidebar!
Is the fractal infill worth looking at for the large models? It's purpose is to increase the intensity of the infil as it approaches the upper surfaces, it seems like a good fit to the Giga print vs filament use challenge.
Fractal is generally consider a terrible infill pattern. The idea of it is "the walls are strong enough on their own and I just need it to hold up the overhangs" but this usually only applies to smaller prints that you're not going to play with at all.
@@pHuzi0n ;-) I guess my experience with the A1 mini really does not translate to Orange Giga scale printing. It will be interesting to see what is the best solution. What's your suggestion?
This kind of baffles me but it also baffles me how TT can use other CAD but has a hard time with Fusion 360. Like how complicated were the designs that you had precise specs but they couldn't draw it??? I don't design anything crazy but it's very simple to go from a 2d drawing to 3d in fusion 360 and I can whip up some little functional parts in a snap. I just made some hooks that fit perfectly in a 3mm gap behind my window blinds to hang my xmas lights and a replace piece for my coffee grinder that were both perfect fits on the first try, then very minimal revision for final design. Fusion didn't like lofting toroidal propellers very much (errors because the loft hits itself as it loops back) but I found a way to make it work.
i love watching your videos i will say that i wish your videos were a bit longer and had a bit more indepth nitty gritty stuff like watching you do maintance on the machines or painting and assembling the models stuff like that but keep up the good work
@TechnicalsTinkers depending on nozzle. Seems might need more walls, more infill overlap, more infill. The skin models and fix thickness models different mo.
You appear to be working in a garage. How is the stability of the environment? I would expect air currents and temperature deviations that might be problematic. I suspect enclosures might be useful in your environment. If I were in your shoes, I'd stop the giga. That infill is just wasting filament (money), unless it adheres to itself.
Video idea... You and M3is3d do a collab. Buy his dragon off cults3d print it to the max on the orangestorm and do a couple videos talking about it together.
You're mistaken on the Moai print. Those supports are doing nothing, its going to be too floppy, and the layer lines won't stay bonded.... Better to cut your losses now and abort the print than to waste 2 more days and another 6 kilos of filament.
I’m not complaining at all here as I work nights and before bed I always watch the videos and I could be wrong but why not upload at a more prime time to get more traction on the videos? Either way tho I just got my first a1 and these keep the motivation up
Appreciate thsi comment bigly. So i've rationalized this a LOT My peak times are EST late morning into afternoon, but if i upload at this time I may miss on people who've queued the video up or are already into something else. I want to be "available" and ready to go versus trying to get people "rushing" to watch my video, which I assume they don't. Plus, it's what i've always done on this channel and it seems to be working. I appreciate the comment greatly
Appreciate the reply man and I promise that I love the timing. It’s every night when I lay down you post. Just throwing it out there but clearly you know. Keep doing what works dude many of us enjoy it
I didn't see it and I get he wants us to watch the video, but I watch while working so it will be tough to see a 1 sec. Maybe he can add a bell or ding or something that won't show up in the transcript but lets the viewer know it just showed.
grid infill is some outdated shiz. gyroid or adaptive cubic. i think adaptive cubic probably best for big models because it makes the infill dense in tight spaces and spaced way the f out in big gaps. but def stop using grid, that's like early aughts infill.
I don't know about anyone else but my ADHD and Autistic ass can't find this password for nothing. I've watched the thing fully through at least five times and have been scrubbing through trying to find it for at least an hour now and I cannot find it anywhere if it's there I can't see it.
@@TechnicalsTinkers Thanks I found it finally. My brain was looking for white paper and assumed it was after the giveaway instructions. Got the entries here's hoping it was worth the effort lol. Thanks for the great vids.
Those lines in the SV08 look like you're going to start having problems from the extruder fix if you haven't printed that small part and installed it which takes less than 5 minutes to print and install, honestly i would rather u not so i can get some good content then say i told u so later on LMFAO.............................. And there are definitely people out there with way too much money or more money than sense, there are people exist in this world that have never been to a Walmart or shopped in a grocery store in their life and I met a few of them over the years, I have a few customers like that that if they want something they will pay the price means absolutely nothing to them............... And honestly I don't buy that you don't know what you're doing to get people to watch because it's what every other UA-camr does, but the sad part is the people that do keep coming back for that reason they don't know that so they're not going to say that exact thing lol if you know what I mean........... And also that's what I've been doing outsourcing things I want created that I want to try and sell so I own it and I don't have to completely learn a whole new program it takes up a **** ton of time
You know, you bring up a good idea with marketing.... But I really think your market is for the 2A prints... Who's going to buy a giant glock or a giant python? Not your average guy.... but a 2A store certainly might... they are a great advertising piece.... Or how about this.... Work on finding the right contact person in corporate for Bass Pro Stores.... a giant Glock would be the sort of thing they would possibly buy to display in that section of their stores... you could get orders to produce 1000 of them for all of their stores.... Bottom line... they're not so much an ART piece as they are an ADVERTISING piece... its as old as business... the watchmaker would hang a giant watch sign outside his shop... the shoemaker would hang a giant shoe.... there's your market for those items.
I continue watching because of your trial and error approach. I enjoy watching the process.
On a side note, I do A LOT of parametric modeling (on shape, fusion, solid works) and if you need something modeled or need help walking through the process I'm willing to lend that help. My professional background is in 3d printing for the Air Force, specifically material characterization for SLS and FDM 3d printers.
I own 6 printers myself and sell a few things here and there. No Etsy store just word of mouth type thing right now.
I spent a good bit of time tinkering on them learning all the quirks and designing solutions for them.
I also have printers that just work so that I can prototype without tinkering.
Appreciate the content! Peace ✌️
I have been watching your daily updates for the last month or so. The quality of the content is going up and I wanted to thank you for your candor. It is nice to watch someone try to grow a startup and the information is invaluable.
Completely agree! I'm starting a 3D business at the new year; watching this has been instructive.
Interesting fail on the rectilinear infill! So much to adjust for on huge prints. I believe it is barely touching the wall and then retracting inward as it cools. You'd probably need to increase the infiill wall overlap to get it to connect better and using grid instead of rectilinear would probably make the infill more solid. That said the double or hollow wall suggestion by another commenter is a really good one! Congrats on 2K.
I'm wondering if the issue you're having is caused by over-tensioning the drive motors as the extruder draws on the filament spool when the print head is on the far corner of the print volume. Motor set-ups like these are often internally limited to prevent twisting or warping the guide rails on the X & Y axis. This theory is supported by observing the amount of slack in the filament when the print head moves out of the extreme corner. To ease the strain on the drive motors you could do either:
Re-orient the filament spool towards the center of the print bed, depending on the mounting of the spool base.
Use a weighted pulley on a spring to pre-tension the filament at the extreme corner and lessen the load on the drive motors and extruder.
Use PTFE tubing and a support arm to direct the filament out of the spool holder towards the center of the print bed and then downwards to be over the center of the print bed. With this method, the distance from the end of the guide tube to the print head is almost the same, regardless of position at a given height. The demand on the extruder will also decrease as it will be pulling the filament at a high angle.
That said, it could also be because the infill percentage is too low and the slicer has a difficult time accounting for the variance due to the size of the model.
I'm interested to see what the solution will be?
If I'm right, any chance a little ole gal like me could get a roll or two of filament?
2:00 SV08 print issue looks like under extrusion. Maybe it's the extruder being weak but it's more likely that the specific filament that you're using needs to be tuned in your slicer settings. I would recommend switching to Orca Slicer for every machine that you can and using the built in calibration tests for each filament. Different colors of filament have different pigments which can effect how they flow even if it's the same brand!
3:00 Giga infill issue #1 with it being stringy is probably because it's rectilinear and that infill pattern alternates the direction of lines for each layer of infill. In small prints it's not noticeable but for giga prints I would try using ADAPTIVE CUBIC infill and increase the infill % way higher than you normally would because adaptive cubic creates more infill at the walls where it's needed but leaves bigger empty spaces in the middle.
3:16 Giga infill issue #2 with it not sticking is probably partly related to how cold it is in your garage, partly because of the bad infill type, partly because of infill overlap settings... Basically the infill is cooling down too fast and those long lines of infill are shrinking which pulls itself off of the wall. In Orca Slicer you can sandwich in the infill anchor to the wall by using "alternate extra wall" and increasing "infill/wall overlap" to 115% but you might not even need it with adaptive cubic infill because the infill will have shorter spans near the walls that won't shrink as much.
A common issue on the SV08 is the idler gear pin slides out, if you start seeing weird under extrusion issues after tightening that knob; look under the faceplate to see if it has slipped out. You can just push it back in and there are a few models on printables and such to keep it in place.
I watch for a few reasons. I like the process, I like the inspiration, I like that you do so many different things trying to figure out what works, I like that you’re transparent about what does and doesn’t work, and I like that you engage with people when we comment and stuff. You let people help you and it’s cool to see when we say stuff you take our advice. And I like knowing when I wake up there’s a video to start my day with
Scrubbing through the slicing preview is a really good habit to get into. You can learn all kinds of things about how the slicers work, slicing is really where the magic happens. Every infill pattern has a use, and some are better suited to different models.
Nice work on the 2k!
I grew up in eastern NC so I know the bird store you're talking about, and I like that idea of taking your product local to drive sales. In addition to the fake wasp nest a lot of people like placing those fake owls in the yard to scare off other birds and rodents. They're pretty hollow, you could probably mock one up for cheap. Keep it up!
I would think this is a good example of a case where 3dPrinting can be super beneficial. The bird store don't have to order and stock hundreds or thousands of mold injected items.
You print a few for them. If they sell, you print some more... They don't have to be shipped from China.
Congrats on 2k 🎉
For the dowel you consider a pvc pipe instead? It would increase the strength at a low cost and free up your printer for more experiments
Yeah, I watch because I’m new to 3d printing, and I like your trial-and-error approach. Not everyone can afford to do that, but the industry is advancing fast, so I think there is a lot that both you and I can learn from that. I also like that you have multiple printers. Viewers can compare them for what they want a little better. In other words, your slap dash approach is a benefit in the current tech revolution, in my opinion. Honestly, you’re the only one printing big.
That's a pretty good way to giveaway. Congrats on 2k subs!!
Thanks! What part of SC? I'm up upstate myself
@TechnicalsTinkers I'm in North charleston SC. I like the videos!! I recently ran into some heart problems which are keeping me from doing my normal job of being a mobile field technician for Ryder Logistics so I'm having to look for less physical activities . I looked for office job but Ryder had none available in my area so as I was contemplating on what to do next the 3d printing was looking appealing and I believe there is money to be made, my only thing is trying to get the machines needed to make a go of it. That's why I like your videos because I'm have no income at the moment and your videos give me a direction I definitely need a multi colored printing, printer and some of your ambition!! I don't do videos so I just try and keep up with what's online. I'm 54 and I don't need alot of income lol I'm lucky most of what I own is paid for so that's a real plus for me. But keep up the good work and the sometime failure hey its a lot of trial and error so keep the vids coming!!
not long started watching your videos but just wanted to say thankyou had a similar issues with layers after changing nozzle re.heated the nozzle and re tightened works perfectly now :D
creality k1 and ke
I have been watching for a couple of months now and enjoy the content. Your sense of humor is funny and inline with my own. Great job and keep up the great content.
If you tune your volumetric flow for each filament you can increase speeds without touching your print profile speed settings. Look just below the temp section in a filament profile. Most filament profiles are pre configured for slower printing to ensure that all prints have the best chance of completing. For example the Generic PETG profile has a default speed of 2/mm3 yet you can increase this to 8 or 10 and cut your print time in 1/3 😊
I’m just getting started with 3D Printing. I’ve wanted one for a long time but consumer grade printers finally seem to be able to be able make a product that doesn’t just look like plastic junk. I know cad well enough to design stuff but I’m far from proficient with it yet. Would love to make a side gig out of printing and selling functional items, but realistically I know that isn’t easy unless stars align for you.
Put a piece of bowden tube on the spool that might help with the filament catching.
While I don't need filament (EU) it's a nice gesture!
1->2k was quite fast, wasn't it? Congratulations!
Do I have to watch the video at half the speed to see the piece of paper cause I watched it twice and haven't seen no piece of paper with no code written on it, nice trick to get people to watch it more than once
It's in there. You're a regular if you DM me on twiter or discord i'll give you the code
i guess i must blink at the same part every time i watch too :S
@McShimi yeah me too I honestly think that he said there's a code just so people would watch it over and over again
@@TechnicalsTinkers cant DM you on x because only verified users can send direct messages request two people that don't follow them, and I didn't realize you created a discord channel
It is in there, it is very well hidden, maybe too well honestly, found it on my 3rd go around, my OCD would not let me quit lol.
Congrats on the 2k. Interested in the daily schedule hearing about your journey. For me, there is no need for give away, just keep doing what you are doing. Habit forming ;)
I’m watching your channel because like you I’m discovering the process and how and what works. I am pretty isolated so it helps me not feeling alone doing that. Keep up the good work. My business is niche and very different than yours but the process is pretty much the same. I’m far from selling physical prints, I don’t have the production space for it, my goal is to eventually get studio space and consider a print farm to complement my digital sales with physical sales.
You do digital goods?
@ I design terrain for tabletop gaming as well in the process of designing my own tabletop game. I can pretty much design anything.
Congrats on 2K subs
If you haven't already, please please please replace the hotend on your sovol with the Microswiss Flowtech. It's 50 bucks on Amazon right now and it's plug and play -- remove the old one -- install the new one, and you're good to go. You need to run the PID tuning and recalibrate your rotation_distance for the extruder after you do it, because this new nozzle/hotend is was easier on the extruder. When I replaced mine I found that it was extruding TWICE what it was with the old hotend. So the extruder was working really really hard with the old one. I get amazing accuracy and much more even/cleaner prints with this hotend. PLUS you can change the nozzle out cold!
NOTED!
I only watch because of your blunt and funny comments. I’m sure your wife get’s tired of it, but guys are guys. You are witty and it’s interesting watching you search for the dollar. There are way easier ways to make a buck.
Thanks. I think though it's the reason she sticks around. I promise you she's a bigger edgelord than I am
when you do the rhino i think you should do the horns separate so you can print them in there own color
Congrats to 2k! This would be amazing to win! I'm almost out of filament and just got my job back after being laid off!
Great video as always, your approach is pretty refreshing by telling the truth of what works and what doesn’t Thanks
I definitely watch for the trial and error and cost-concious approach. Unlike the big 3d printing content providers, some of us can't just throw money at everything😁
Dude had same thing with yellow from Bambu, its not just you. They are sending me new rolls of yellow because of the filament rolls are done wrong. I had one roll that was so out of wack I could not even put it on refill roll. As for the Moai statue, your gonna have issues with that once it get higher up, might warp since the infill is not supporting the sides at all. As far as I know that loose stringing infill is due to not being connected to the sides so its just stringing it across. If it comes out in the end, I would suggest who ever purchases it fill it with foam and some weight because there is going to be no weight in the inside do to that bad infill. I suggest do some research on how to do infill because on large prints it will save you a lot of fails in future. I do not own a giga, but I have a CR-10 S5 which is 500x500x500 and had to relearn everything because of size compared to smaller printers. Good luck though.
I keep watching you videos to see how things are going with your journey and to get ideas on how to maybe start my own printing business
Congrats on the 2k subs :)
I'd think most birds would avoid a hornets' nest. Birds Unlimited is probably looking for things to attract them.
If you are thinking about local sales the Maoi would work as a Garden ornament, any local Garden stores? Similarly a large bird house/feeder might be someething you could look at. Only issue for both is that PLA I probably isn't ideal for extended periods outside. Keep up the good work
Try increasing the slicer setting of infil wall overlap - or changing the infil angle - also consider a non gid like hex orgyroid
that infill is very well known for doing that cause it prints one direction at one height then crosses on next height ... how ever i never use grid ... i use gyroid infill its one of the more sturdy infills from alot of peoples testing
cubic has never let me down, quick and does the job well,. gyroid is good too!
Gyroid shakes way too much from accelerating/decelerating constantly to form the curves. 3d Honeycomb in Orca Slicer is very similar but makes the paths more linear so it shakes much less. That said, I wouldn't recommend either for huge prints. Adaptive Cubic should be the obvious choice for large prints because it will leave the center area more hollow with more of the support near the walls where it is needed.
I watch cause im a terrible sleeper and when I wake up randomly your videos habe been posted. On on the west coast. I also like the character models and large print idea. I like watching your thought process and innuendo comments. I also watched a couple times and havent seen the code. I think the moai is a loss with the infill failure.
hint, it's in the beginning part, before i give the instructions
About your hornet nest.... have you thought of printing it in ASA? ASA is UV/waterproof and can stand higher temps. PLA will melt or deform on a warm day or in direct sunlight plus absorbs water. If you go to the bird store that could be a bullet point perk on the hornet nest offering as being able to survive in the elements or long time in the sun......unlike PLA. Just my free two cents
Coming from your other channel. Don’t even have a 3d printer. You’re pretty funny though. It’s nice to start my day with a good laugh
CRYPTO PERSON EVERYONE GET EM
I'm beating my head on the table saying why doesn't he try a double skin wall on the giant prints and stop wasting time and filament on almost useless infill, happy to have a go hollowing out the Maoi model for you.
Double skin wall? So like, a perim wall on the inside?
I know it's mental, but hey TT are on a journey here.
@@TechnicalsTinkers Yes... i'll try to describe the process, you take the completely solid model, pull it into some cad/design package and use the "hollow" feature so you end up with a 10mm wall with empty space on the inside, when you slice this the slicer only slices the 10mm wall... so you have 2 wall loops 10mm apart with gyroid/conic infill in between. This makes a quite stable shell, good for overhangs and good for very top areas of the print... you can use a "height range modifier" to increase the infill % at the very top of the print so you get a good finish.
@@paulcrabb7167Hollow walls is def a great idea.
Ummm... Sparse infill prints way faster (thicker extrusion every 2 layers at max speed) and generally uses way less filament than wall loops (depends on pattern and % but with sane settings it's lower) so hollowing out the inside and creating a 1 cm "shell" in CAD is a terrible idea that would be a pain to even try. Adaptive Cubic infill is great for huge prints and is a simple slicer setting.
For the most part, I stay around for your personality. Second would be your trial and error.
That Maio print is a scrapper, no point wasting another 2 days and kilos of filament!!
just subbed ya... great content... i'm just gettin stared too. fixin to get a roll of TPU for some stuff today.. great stuff bud..
OK, you asked why your viewers watch your program. I can't speak for others but for me I have no f'ing idea. We are likely extremely far apart both philosophically and politically (plus I'm Canadian). But, being retired and spending some of my time watching UA-cam I have been watching pretty much all of your daily update. I have an A1 and an A1Mini so I'm interested in 3D printing. I do enjoy your candor and telling folks what you are doing and why and not trying to hide that with some kind of Bullshit.
Now, onto design. I too started with TinkerCad and my first comment is that if it is working for you, keep using it. However, I have started down the Fusion 360 path and I've been following the videos from Paul McWhorter which I found to be one of the better training aids out there. But, like anything, you do have to keep at it and I find that when I don't use it for a couple of weeks I have to go back to his videos to "remember" what to do (but then I'm in my 70s if that has anything to do with it). BUT, my larger comment is that, as you've discovered, there are many similarities between CAD programs so part of the equation needs to be cost. I'd suggest learning Fusion or another product that has a really good online training component and then look at costs. Fusion is not cheap. Fine for me as don't sell product but it would be a hit to your profit if you used it, especially at the start. But again, if TinkerCad can so what you want to do then keep using it, especially in the short, perhaps until you find that you have a requirement for something more advanced.
Anyway, keep them coming, looking forward to the large Easter Island Statue. And yes that infill looks weird but heck if it works for this print and you remember to check out the slicer results next time then great.
Man I have watched this video several times and the one thing I think it is but it is too long. great videos funny and enjoyable to watch.
hint, its in the beginning of the vid
Hi , why not give FreeCad V1 a go - part option is almost like tinkercad think there is also a option to use tinkercad menu alike. You can the slowly move to Part Design option I still use Part option most of the time! When you slice your model why don't you check the infill you should be able to see if infill wall is solid, when sliding the layers slidebar!
My Qidi Plus 4 is a Core XY machine and has a horizontal cable chain, so you should be able to do something similar for the Sovol.
Congratulations sir….keep it up
I like Shapr3d. It costs but is waaaaay easier to use.
Is the fractal infill worth looking at for the large models? It's purpose is to increase the intensity of the infil as it approaches the upper surfaces, it seems like a good fit to the Giga print vs filament use challenge.
Fractal is generally consider a terrible infill pattern. The idea of it is "the walls are strong enough on their own and I just need it to hold up the overhangs" but this usually only applies to smaller prints that you're not going to play with at all.
@@pHuzi0n ;-) I guess my experience with the A1 mini really does not translate to Orange Giga scale printing. It will be interesting to see what is the best solution. What's your suggestion?
@@zagabog Adaptive Cubic is really good for large prints. It leaves the center mostly hollow but lots of support around the walls.
My caution on outsourcing Fusion 360 designs...I've done it and I know how to spec things out very well. What I got was really not very good.
This kind of baffles me but it also baffles me how TT can use other CAD but has a hard time with Fusion 360. Like how complicated were the designs that you had precise specs but they couldn't draw it???
I don't design anything crazy but it's very simple to go from a 2d drawing to 3d in fusion 360 and I can whip up some little functional parts in a snap. I just made some hooks that fit perfectly in a 3mm gap behind my window blinds to hang my xmas lights and a replace piece for my coffee grinder that were both perfect fits on the first try, then very minimal revision for final design. Fusion didn't like lofting toroidal propellers very much (errors because the loft hits itself as it loops back) but I found a way to make it work.
i love watching your videos i will say that i wish your videos were a bit longer and had a bit more indepth nitty gritty stuff like watching you do maintance on the machines or painting and assembling the models stuff like that but keep up the good work
just watching to see what issues you have and how you resolve them
What slicer are you using for the Giga? I started with their Cura but use their Orca version now.
Orca
Where did you find that huge model? How thick are the walls, wall loops, and nozzle?
Attribution model, yeggi
@TechnicalsTinkers depending on nozzle. Seems might need more walls, more infill overlap, more infill. The skin models and fix thickness models different mo.
Like the jokes and the journey, doing it and learning as you go!!
@@chrisgill5692 OK I'm out of here, good luck
You appear to be working in a garage. How is the stability of the environment? I would expect air currents and temperature deviations that might be problematic.
I suspect enclosures might be useful in your environment. If I were in your shoes, I'd stop the giga. That infill is just wasting filament (money), unless it adheres to itself.
Garage has it's own dedicated mini split, but yea, when the door opens 2x daily it does give everyone a dose of cold (or hot) air
Video idea... You and M3is3d do a collab. Buy his dragon off cults3d print it to the max on the orangestorm and do a couple videos talking about it together.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA
IM SWEATING
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
I THINK I PEED A LITTLE LAUGHING AUDIBLY
HAHAHAHAHAHAH
You're mistaken on the Moai print. Those supports are doing nothing, its going to be too floppy, and the layer lines won't stay bonded.... Better to cut your losses now and abort the print than to waste 2 more days and another 6 kilos of filament.
Is your spool for the yellow filament of a smaller diameter that usual? If so that may be why it doesn’t rewind 🤷
all std bambu matte, shouldn't be!
Damn that code word was a tough one....
Regarding the dowel for the revolver, wouldn't it be most cost effective to get premade wooden dowels?
Easy to stamp out a cylinder!
@@TechnicalsTinkers No question. Just wondering about time and filament vs. convenience. Nothing CLOSE to a major deal...just a curiosity.
for the head on the Giga and your guns, what filament are you using PetG?
all pla
That’s good to know, thank you for the confirmation!
Good morning Sir, thank you for the good content
I’m not complaining at all here as I work nights and before bed I always watch the videos and I could be wrong but why not upload at a more prime time to get more traction on the videos? Either way tho I just got my first a1 and these keep the motivation up
Appreciate thsi comment bigly. So i've rationalized this a LOT
My peak times are EST late morning into afternoon, but if i upload at this time I may miss on people who've queued the video up or are already into something else. I want to be "available" and ready to go versus trying to get people "rushing" to watch my video, which I assume they don't. Plus, it's what i've always done on this channel and it seems to be working. I appreciate the comment greatly
Appreciate the reply man and I promise that I love the timing. It’s every night when I lay down you post. Just throwing it out there but clearly you know. Keep doing what works dude many of us enjoy it
Nice journey, thanks for sharing
Missed code twice. Few more seconds or some crinkly paper noise for those that watch while working on the 3k giveaway please :)
I have watched the video 2 times and never saw the secret code :( oh well GL to all that enter.
its there. i posted hints on other comments
@@TechnicalsTinkers ok ty i will watch it at thanks for getting back to me. :)
hint its between min 1 and 10 :)
What about freecad 1.0😅😅😅
good idea for the hornets neast.
did he actually put the code into the video? I might be blind or something but I watched the video twitce and didnt see it :D
I didn't see it either. But I suck at paying attention.
@@peleon79 Me n
either...
Yes, the code is in the video.
Its there, third watch i found it, he did a good job hiding it.
I didn't see it and I get he wants us to watch the video, but I watch while working so it will be tough to see a 1 sec. Maybe he can add a bell or ding or something that won't show up in the transcript but lets the viewer know it just showed.
Good Morning TT
I can’t find the code. I’ve watched 4 times. 😢
it's there. hint, it's before the instructions
I've been watching you since the beginning and there's no secret word on a piece of paper I've watched 3 times and can't find it sir
it's there. hint, it's before the instructions
I watched the whole video and didn't see a code.
it's there. hint, it's before the instructions
grid infill is some outdated shiz. gyroid or adaptive cubic. i think adaptive cubic probably best for big models because it makes the infill dense in tight spaces and spaced way the f out in big gaps. but def stop using grid, that's like early aughts infill.
I don't know about anyone else but my ADHD and Autistic ass can't find this password for nothing. I've watched the thing fully through at least five times and have been scrubbing through trying to find it for at least an hour now and I cannot find it anywhere if it's there I can't see it.
its there, before the instructions are given
@@TechnicalsTinkers Thanks I found it finally. My brain was looking for white paper and assumed it was after the giveaway instructions. Got the entries here's hoping it was worth the effort lol. Thanks for the great vids.
ok i might be completly blind but the code is evading me
it's in there. you can email me for it if you like
Fusion has become a poor choice for the hobby/maker user. They keep messing with the licensing, and any commercial use now requires an annual license.
Those lines in the SV08 look like you're going to start having problems from the extruder fix if you haven't printed that small part and installed it which takes less than 5 minutes to print and install, honestly i would rather u not so i can get some good content then say i told u so later on LMFAO.............................. And there are definitely people out there with way too much money or more money than sense, there are people exist in this world that have never been to a Walmart or shopped in a grocery store in their life and I met a few of them over the years, I have a few customers like that that if they want something they will pay the price means absolutely nothing to them............... And honestly I don't buy that you don't know what you're doing to get people to watch because it's what every other UA-camr does, but the sad part is the people that do keep coming back for that reason they don't know that so they're not going to say that exact thing lol if you know what I mean........... And also that's what I've been doing outsourcing things I want created that I want to try and sell so I own it and I don't have to completely learn a whole new program it takes up a **** ton of time
You know, you bring up a good idea with marketing.... But I really think your market is for the 2A prints... Who's going to buy a giant glock or a giant python? Not your average guy.... but a 2A store certainly might... they are a great advertising piece.... Or how about this.... Work on finding the right contact person in corporate for Bass Pro Stores.... a giant Glock would be the sort of thing they would possibly buy to display in that section of their stores... you could get orders to produce 1000 of them for all of their stores.... Bottom line... they're not so much an ART piece as they are an ADVERTISING piece... its as old as business... the watchmaker would hang a giant watch sign outside his shop... the shoemaker would hang a giant shoe.... there's your market for those items.