Story of Failure - Should I Have Continued or Not? | Adam Ondra
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- Recently, I tried to onsight a 9a route in Montanejos, Spain. My try was going really well, I was just underneath the crux, using a marginal kneebar for resting and checking the crux moves above me. Just before I was ready to set off, I broke the edge of the tiny tufa where my knee was, which sent my feet into the air. I was still holding on with my hands, I did not fall off. However, my foot got slightly tangled into the rope, which stopped the swing of my body ☝ I am sure I would never fall off in this situation if I did not have the rope, yet I would have to deal with more of the swing, which would be a little more tiring. It was not a mistake of the belayer as he had enough slack in the system, just the rope drag through approximately 6 carabiners was enough for a bit of help. I am pretty sure that if this happened in a competition (in that case I would probably not break the hold, but let's say it would be a foot slip), the judges would let me continue climbing and it would be no issue ✌
Should I have continued or not? Read the full article about this failure and climbing ethics ➡️ www.mammut.com... and watch the full video here ➡️ • This Video Features Ev... .
And let me know your opinion in the comments ✊
Story of failure by
Adam Ondra
Mammut
Directed and edited by
Jan Vogl
Camera
Jan Vogl
Production
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína
Kateřina Kuřátková
© Adam Ondra 2024
#climbing #spain #rockclimbing #mammut
@mammut
In that situation, I personally wouldn’t continue. You see, I climb 7b so I I would never be able to climb this route in the first place
"Mierda!!" That came from deep
100%
That's what I thought 💩!
Del enojo comenzo hablar español, si pasa 😂
It doesn't look like the rope "helped" you in any way, but I liked what you said in the full video, that it wouldn't feel okay for yourself anymore and I think that's the most important thing. If you know it wouldn't feel like an onsight anymore, there's no point in continuing.
Perfect summary!
It's kinda tricky to say yes or no, but you made the right choice on your own.
I think he did the right thing by not continuing. Not only does the rope cushion the slip, the weight also created tension in the rope that helped hold him up by his harness. Onsighting is a pretty purist approach to climbing, no sense in diluting it for personal convenience. I'm sure Adam values those successful onsights for that very reason.
Yea you can see a small chunk of rock broke off right where he had his left knee for the knee bar. Tough luck, you were looking solid Adam!
I wouldn't call this small, but rather normal sized 😅
Perfect ethics and huge passion for the sport on top of being super strong, that's what makes Adam truly special!
I really respect in the full video that you took the time to respect the sport and hold yourself accountable not only just on the plane field of other people, but also in your own experience.
It’s very sincere. And because of that
that’s what makes you the best
Come on Adam you can do it we all believe in you 💪💪
Heart says yes, head says no. You made the correct decision after all. Keep on sending Adam, you're a huge influence and role model for a lot of climbers. 😊
Made the right choice!
If there was decent slack in the rope and a hard pull on the right arm to stop the fall, then yes. Adam keeps it 100% even when the rock tells him not today.
Love the music 🎶🎶🎶 Adam!
Let's go Adam ! ❤
Yes man ⚡
I don’t think anyone should question ondras ethics. Even if he felt he could have continued he knew the hate he would get for it.
Right to stop. Respect!
I'm the same way.. a bit taller than avg and so many gyms have climbs where it's either a dyno first move or at least a mini cave situation and my toes scrape the carpet every now and then just because lankey.. I'm like FUCCCCCKKK every time and restart it's just so stupid but once you touch you can't ignore it anyway
Climbing is not a religion, nor should it become one. Above all, it's about enjoying nature in contact with the rock and remembering that the planet offers us beautiful environments that must be respected if we are to continue to enjoy them.
I know how frustrating this can feel but I like to remind myself that no matter how bad I might perform: every time I go for climbing is good
I’d say go on until you let go of the right arm then its over, but as long as your right arm is supporting you keep going
It doesn't look like his right hand was going anywhere off that rest jug, so he would have saved the fall regardless from the looks of the vid. I wouldn't call the rope contact an insignificant dab, but in the shock of moment and to a total purist in ethics it may 'feel' more significant. I think Adam is a total purist in ethics with very high standards.
Just keep sending.
Childish screaming while climbing just makes other climbers in the area think someone needs help. It disrupts so much so often. We need to change this stupid part of climbing.
:-( AO Team
Meaby i will be satisfied as a climber when i am good enough to make these thpes of judgements
Yep
The rock just broke
You need to be at peace with yourself. Once I drove home after a send and then noticed in the video I had maybe stood on a bolt in the easy top part of the climb. I immediately asked my partner if we could drive out to the crag so I could climb the route again. It was extremely windy early evening. Everybody had left the crag. But I sent it again, how I wanted to :)
Personally I would have stayed on to check out both but would have had to restart icl
If he broke the hold Which is crucial I think It Would make Sense to continue,as a Future try Would be virtually Impossible ir simply not worth the time... But thats only a point of view from someone who is frustrated because a big jug broke of in his V4 project😂
It was a hold breaking, but it was just a tiny edge of a kneebar, the route hasn't really changed at all.
It's a dab, so good call to stop.
Furthermore I think you gained more reputation with stopping than you would have with the send ;-)
You should have continued imo, decide afterwards if it counts for things like onsights, redpoints are a dif story
Personally I wouldve carried on.. I would've been happy with the ascent at all, regardless of the dab. I wouldn't see it as quite as pure an ascent as without the dab, but I'd still be happy with the send.
I mean probably I wouldve held the swing with or without the dab (if I were as strong as adam lol) so I still wouldve counted it personally. Maybe I would come back another time to do a purer send. (Realistically not lol)
Hey hey hey!!!, temper…..
Adam should just put on some polyester bell bottoms & platform shoes & go disco dancing to 1970's Motown music!!!!
Personally I think he could have continued, but the trolls would destroy him.
Not trolls
@@papalegba6796 lol
Thanks, the problem is that these things are sometimes really hard to notice from the video, and only a climber and belayer really knows how much weight you had in the rope.
@@AdamOndra Exactly. How much of your weight was on your hand? All, none, or some?
That sucks, looks like a foot hold broke? On the question of climbing ethics, I think no one is entitled ^^
No, just a foot slip.
@@danielwesterlund1905 There is a broken hold at 00:15.
looks like a bit from the knee bar broke.
@@Jerkal Oh yeah, I was looking at the foot and didn't see that it broke by the knee.
Ya decía Salma Hayek, los insultos en español son los que se disfrutan más 😂❤❤
Song name please
If he feels he should, so he should.
If he feels he don't, he don't.
Personal choice
It’s a dab no redpoint.
He might continue but it will not count and he has to start from the bottom again. The flash is clearly lost.
Dontunderstand why he did not continue
Why not just continue for your own sake and then not calling it an official onsight even if you succeeded?
Save energy for a redpoint
Why drain the energy for the entire trip for nothing?
@@Brewsto What do you mean nothing? All climbing is for nothing. It's just for the climber's benefit.
@@fajastata2 The goal of the sponsored athlete and for most is to send routes. Onsighting 8c+ or 9a is not "nothing", it's a respectable achievement just like performances in other sports by other elite athletes. My point was that onsight effort is very fatiguing and no point in wasting more energy continuing if the onsight is not an onsight anymore. He can go bolt to bolt to check the route to send it afterwards but Ondra has done hundreds of these routes.
@@Brewsto I'm guessing he also wanted to onsight it for himself, not just to promote himself as a sponsored athlete, so he could have continued for that. It would have still been an onsight, just not official.
Rock break by left knee - blood on rock - "mierda" into one hand catch. If you sent after that, may not have been clean, but it would have been epic. Should have kept going. Sicker than a clean send imo.
Nop, sad but it's like this, a small slip may cost the best try ever, the beauty of climbing!❤
Absolutely.
Wasnt really a small slip, the rock broke on the knee bar.
Haha @@danwallis1984
@@danwallis1984 was a shame
Live streaming and u never have to ask xour moral compass
There is not everything you can see from the video, especially just one angle. Sometimes it is really down to the climber if you were helped by the rope or not.
seemed like you hung on with your arm
If you want to be that ethical you should also not consider onsight when you are climbing a route with chalk on the holds...
Ooh interesting point
Doesnt chalked holds make it harder and that is why people brush chalk?
@@christianpilt9050It's more about the chalk signaling where the holds are. But idk if that really counts against an onsight
How many routes are there that have no chalk on the holds? The Steep stuff Ondra climbs doeasn't even see rain..
@@christianpilt9050 no ahah chalk suggest you where is the next hold, is way harder without chalk on the holds
unlucky
I guess what makes him go nuts is that the rock is chipped off. So it will make it harder for a knee bar next time he tries it.
I think climbers could benefit from being a little more easy going.
I can see ethically where touching the rope in that way would “disqualify” the climb. But it didn’t help you at all. So I would have kept going
Just go home mate! Have a lemonade and watch the game
Too much thought is in this. You're climbing WITH rope. Climb.
What's next, a timer on how fast you choose YOUR route?
"He took 10 seconds of rest and should have chose under 6 seconds"?
Silly.
Ethics isn't a thing unless you're actively competing with clear rules.
Ease down on the reaction a bit, jeez. No one is dying. And on climbing ethics: these are so controversial in climbing, I wouldnt care. Yes you can onsight, but it doesnt matter if all the quickdraws are in place? Or just skipping them? Whoever came up with these rules
I love Adam but his reactions both positive and negative have me cringing hardcore
Climbing Ethics in this generation is almost nonexistent.
True, they dgaf
@@papalegba6796 …. What’s going to happen is local Administration, be it NPS, USFS, BLM (Bureau of Land Management) will limit or totally block access to numerous Climbing Areas. There appears to be no thoughts around preservation of Climbing Access
what ethics are non existent when watching this video???
@@AndyBizzzle…. As AO is SportClimbing here, I don’t believe there is an ethical issue. As Ethics were brought up, my comment is more a generalized statement on the State of Climbing Culture in the 21st Century.
@@papalegba6796….. I responded back regarding Access & how Administrating Agencies response can & will limit access …. But they deleted it….
Hello there
i am writing to express my views on the following
should adam have continued?
what do you think about climbing ethics?
is adam ondra gay?
what is his sexuality?
So
as i previously stated
i think adam should not actually have continued as is may have affected his health in the near future
Is this a bot?
@@JoBianco nope. i just love to write essays on adam ondra
@@spenceringram8104 Lol, very funny
He isn't gay and he's a male don't put your fantasies on others.
You only get one chance to on sight. The Ethics are kind of arbitrary anyway. If you can onsight a route the it's likely nowhere near your absolute limits, so the whole onsight thing is just for bragging rights. and that's not what climbing should be about.
, , , someday when when you have slayed ✨️ all your dragons, and have nothing to prove , thier will be your last clip , , ,
Yes
You can literally see a rock give in his knee bar, causing him to fall. He’d have been fine if that didn’t break.
Or maybe no
I dunno
I did know that word means something in Czech 😂… but no translation needed…todos lo sentimos
Sorry, But you have 2 start Over,
He doesn't have to do anything. He could continue, he'd just probably end up doing it twice.
@@fredperry3063 haha