Hey Mike, long time viewer here. Sorry for the long post, but here are a few points of interest everyone might like. Fiberglass rebar has actually been around about a hundred years. I'll get back to that in a sec, but first some quick history (just the high points)... the French "invented" or popularized the use of steel rebar in the mid 1800's. In the days of few building codes, it was slow to be adopted in the US. Then, in the early 1900's, a bell tower near San Francisco was built using steel rebar. Many engineers of the day made fun of it, and said using steel rebar was overkill, and a big waste of money. But when that bell tower was still standing after the great San Francisco Earthquake of 1906, a trend set off in America for using rebar in concrete. This trend was "reinforced" a few years later in 1910 when 10 construction workers were killed by a masonry wall collapse. The blame was given to "not enough rebar used" when in fact the failure was caused by the premature removal of some critical shoring. Big stories like these hitting the newspapers (going viral) back in the day - that's how the stupidity of steel rebar really took over in this country. Engineers bought into the hype without really knowing the facts. Any Chemist, Geologist, or Geophysicist could have told them that concrete is a sponge and steel rebar is NOT a good thing to mix with it. Anyway, both fiberglass and basalt rebar have been around longer than most people realize. Up until a few years ago, it was WAY more expensive than steel rebar, but that's not really the case any more. It was traditionally only used in marine environments, so even though it was costly to buy up front, the savings on later fixes made it actually cheaper in the long run. Fun Fact: Walt Disney used a ton of it the construction of his parks. Years later (1998) when they went to demolish the old "Submarine Voyage" ride in the Anaheim park, they had a terrible time tearing out the old concrete because the fiberglass rebar concrete was still extremely strong. The concrete was too thick in places so cutting wasn't an easy option, and the concrete was held together with such monolithic strength that they were all scratching their heads at first. Eventually, they had to hire extra-heavy equipment to remove it and it took a lot longer to do so. And after 40 years of being in place, it was noted that the rebar was "still like brand new." I wish we could say the same for all our bridges in the US. By the way, the Mckinleyville Bridge over Buffalo Creek in WV built in 1996 is the first vehicular bridge in the U.S. to be done with fiberglass rebar. Well, it's a start... one down, and 617,000 or so to go (there are roughly that many bridges in the US). FYI, if anyone is going to get into non-steel rebar, please don't buy the junk that comes from various places overseas. It's no good. There's a place in Texas that makes it called Kodiak, and I think they're one of the few who actually manufacturer it here in the US. They may be the only one. A lot of companies will tell you they make it here, but they actually just sell the imported junk. These companies will "assemble" it here in the US (eg. they'll make the corner bends here) but then they dishonestly say it's 100% "made here." Don't be fooled. Now, I don't know the guys in TX, so I'm not trying to plug them, it's just a fact that they actually make it here in the US. FYI, the psi of fiberglass rebar is 75,000 to 150,000 depending on which size you get. That is CRAZY strong! You would have to pay big bucks for grade 40, 60 or 75 in steel rebar to get those kind of psi strength ratings, and you'd still have the rust problem. So if you need strength - fiberglass or basalt rebar is a lot cheaper than steel compared to the same psi for steel. And you won't EVER have to redo your project due to rusting, cracking, spalling, etc of the concrete... heck, even your great, great grandkids won't have to redo it if you use fiberglass rebar from the get-go. One last thing... the worlds strongest concrete according to rigorous scientific verification is a section of breakwater/seawall in the Bay of Pozzuoli, near Naples, Italy. It's the strongest and it contains no rebar. Mainly because it was built there in 37AD by the Romans. This concrete is actually stronger than the day they installed it nearly 2,000 years ago. It actually gets a little stronger ever year (thanks to a process called Al-tobermorite crystallization). Thanks for all your great vids over the years Mike. Pin this to the top if you want everyone else to see it.
Hi Qool, thanks for all the great info, theres a lot of important information that everyone should read, I will try to figure out how to pin it to the top, thanks greatly for you input, I hope everyone gets to read it, mike
Living in the Bay Area not a lot is made out of brick and when I saw rebar assumed it was always for structural engineering for earthquakes as you noted
@@tomdenton26 -Thanks for the input Tom. As a former military journalist, I've always tried to stick to the ABC's of reporting... Accuracy, Brevity, and Clarity... but I've never been very good at the brevity part. lol
I read the whole thing and as an engineer i have hard on. Appreciate the long story now that i had time to read it. In short, there is a viable alternative to steel reinforcing bar.
Mike, my Grandfather was a bricklayer in Cleveland, Ohio. He had such pride in his work and as a kid he would show me different styles of bricklaying. He also built a lot of stone fireplaces and floors. He and my grandmother were my favorite people ever!!! Your accent and teaching style remind me so much of him. He would have loved your UA-cam channel, I am sure.
Thanks to this guy, I started picking up stone on the side of the road on the way home for over 2 years and built a stone patio in my backyard. Thanks I guess Mike, my wife hated me so much! She loves it now though.
Living in Northern Utah, I just had a new driveway poured last fall and they used no rebar. Contractor told me I didn’t want it for this reason and I now I see why.
Local building code where I live specifies sidewalks, driveways, patios, etc. have no rebar. This was done for concrete recycling purposes, they don't have to separate the steel from the concrete, only crush it for recycling. Rebar is put into concrete for strength when the concrete has tension forces as concrete is good under compression, but not tension. Structural usage such as footers, columns, etc. assumes the concrete will be subjected to both compression and tension which is why building codes require rebar. What is the alternative to rebar for strengthening concrete for tension forces?
yup, In my opinion, concrete with rebar has higher maintenance requirements, that's all. And yes it's impossible to keep water our forever. I settle for 50 years :-)
Mike, thanks for another informative video. It's a no brainer that every time you release a video it's getting a thumbs up from me. You are absolutely correct about how other countries get projects done more efficiently than we do here. When I spent time working in Zurich Switzerland, I would see several men laying cobblestone by hand in intricate decorative patterns in the morning as I passed by and later in the day as I came back by the entire street would be done and no evidence that earlier in the day the entire street had been redone. Thanks again. TP
Hi Mike just got done repairing my porch. I watched your videos on this. It was all broken up so dug it all out cleaned the area applied material spread it out and then sponged it all out and It came out looking nice. My wife was very happy. Thanks for the training and tips. Now on to my chimney.
Mike, I’m a structural engineer for 43 years, rebar is used for tensile forces, concrete is strong for compression but when there is bending you need rebar in the tension zone. That’s why the rebar is 3” up from the bottom of the footing, not on top of the footing.
Outstanding video. We shared this information with a friend who lives in Mendocino County, CA. They have a lot of rain and moisture. He's going to purchase non metallic rebar for his pato and walkway. He's also introduced in the fiber mesh for concrete strength...... We are very grateful too you for sharing your knowledge. God bless 🙏
Very good video. @13:07 Where you say you learn more when taking old projects apart than when doing new projects. This is spot on. A comparison is with mechanical watches. Arguably the best manufacturer of mechanical watches in the world, Greubel Forsey, started out repairing watches. And he (Stephen Forsey) said he learned how to build the best watches by taking apart old watches to see what worked and what eventually fell apart.
I'm not a mason or anything like that, but in NYC there is a mixture of old skyscrapers built with steel skeletons (like the Empire State Building) and more modern ones with rebar reinforce poured concrete skeletons. Some of these buildings are more than 50 stories tall. If there is a leak hidden behind the fancy interior design work, am I right in assuming that the metal rebar expansion and concrete cracking will also happen in these buildings? They might use special concrete but I'm not sure whether it will prevent water penetration for 100 years. Imagine you buy a condominium on the 40th floor, and several structural columns are compromised. The whole building would have to be evacuated for safety in case of collapse.
Good advice Mike. I'm born, raised and work construction in the San Francisco Bay Area. We remove and replace concrete with steel that was placed 60 + years ago and some of the steel comes out without serious corrosion. Depends on the site but the best advice comes from you: it all depends on where you live, everything is different in other parts of the country. All the best MH, I enjoy the videos!
Epoxy coated rebar is being phased out. It’s actually made the problem worse in some conditions when the epoxy gets nicked (as it always does) and water gets trapped up under it.
Hi Grubb, I appreciate you asking, but I am not the people that do continuous studys on it, I'm the guy who just notices what happened when I tear things down, ,but I appreciate you asking, thanks mike
I heard the PH of the concrete would preserve the rebar unless it gets constant water infiltration. I have been coating my concrete work with heavy duty Concrete paint that comes in 5 gallon buckets with some kind of a grit like material in it shortly after I remove the forms...Every now and then I’ll see a 5 gallon bucket of it at the big box store in the oops / Clarance MisTint area and pick it up for $10 or $20 versus $120 regular price. I also try to use a zinc rich primer and some kind of paint over anything that’s getting buried in the concrete pour. I always feel sort of OCD when I’m doing this stuff but I hope it last a little longer.
Another great video! The sill seal is a must and really works good. Like you have said and people are realizing... concrete needs to "float" or be independent of everything. As soon as you lock things in to tight....BOOM there's your first crack. Thanks Mike
That post by Qool Qoin made a lot of sense. Side bar TBH I didn't think it was too long for what was said. Not an engineer but have wondered for some time about putting metal in concrete. Just didn't make good sense to me but figured the "experts" knew what they were doing. Boy was I wrong. Thanks again. And Mike, thanks to you for all your informative videos.
Back in the late 70s I had a contract on military bases building walls for substations. The plans called for rebar every 12” in the walls which were underground. We rodbusted, built forms and did concrete to save money. If we spaced one 13” the inspectors would act like they caught John Dillinger. Pretty sure tax payers have have paid to replace those......with the same specs. Nice video, very helpful....use common sense.
Loved your rebar and rust video. Rebar only temporarily solves the problem. Job security for thr bridge repair profession. Question: I would like to build an insulated slab on grade home with in floor heat. Would 6" fiber mesh concrete or 4" concrete with pink rebar work the best on top of Owens Corning R15 XPS in Custer, SD? I also am going to use 8" thermal studs (t studs) for walls and have ground mount solar panels for trying to be energy efficient. At 72 years of age I have one last chance to do it right ! I used a water heater 20 years ago to heat a gypcrete floor in a sunroom remodel project and let it run wild keeping the floor about 82° with the house stat controlling the rest ($350 water heater boiler vs a $3000 boiler). My wife suggested putting the radiant supply tubes in the middle of the floor with the returns near the outside walls. Great idea, worked well with less heat loss due to the cooler temps neat the outside walls. She said we sit in the middle of theroom not near the outside walls. Being a retired eng, I know she is smarter than me! Thanks for the informing videos. Elmer
Mike, you sure proved your point with those shots of the bridges and loading dock and angle iron. OMG that must have been an avalanche when that whole brick wall came down. So much for wall ties. The idea of slapping a brick facing onto a block wall always struck me as kinda dumb and that disaster confirms it. Thanks as always, for your continuing education classes.
Very informative. In my neck of the woods, there's the compounding damage from water getting into a crack or alongside the rebar-concrete interface and freezing. The expansion power of freezing water breaks mountains apart so preventing or minimizing water entry in the first place is essential maintenance.
That answers a lot but leaves me with the same question: to rebar or not to rebar? I live in the PNW where it rains a lot. I just bought a house that was built in 1912. The basement is a hodgepodge of stacked stones and cinderblocks and stacked stone and repointing on top of repointing. The stacked stone needs repointing. The cinderblocks look like they were added later. Secondary issue is water run off. Not just from the house but a parking lot from an apartment complex. The appropriate drainage is being put in however when putting in this drainage around the house is when the scope of the water damage was seen. So coming full circle: Should I keep the stacked stone and just repoint while reinforced with metal mesh or replace with cinderblock & rebar or just replace with cinderblock?
Besides “fall of cabal “ all 10 episodes this is the only video that I ve watched to the end you are very interesting thank you so much for all the information and I will check your videos out you’re awesome
I love your videos! Your experience is invaluable and I love how you travel the world and look at stone and masonry work through out history to gain perspective and learn from the past! Regarding the use of rebar in concrete. One thing that I think could have been better communicated is that rebar inside of concrete isn't just to hold it together when it cracks, it is also there to give concrete structural rigidity. Concrete without rebar wouldn't be able to span the same distances or carry the same loads. The two work together; rebar provides the rigidity and concrete provides the compressional strength. You could build with out rebar but you would have to use much more material and every span would have to be an arch.
Mike did u ever consider being a masonry teacher in your days at a regional school, I could listen to y'all all day every day. Ur a very well rounded mason with knowledge like no other. Ty 4 all ur information. Ur the man
Hi Mike, just found your channel, very informative. Here in the UK , not only is our Prime Minister 'very wet,'( useless) so is the weather. I'm currently doing a small extension on the garage, and i've dug into hard clay. It's summer, and the ground is rock hard, especially clay. Although in my eyes I've over engineered this small project, I'm still using rebar. I've watched your vids and decided to use it, but making sure its 4'' in from any tench side wall. Hope that makes sense. Love the common sense way of doing things, Take care bud.
Hello again. I have one more question I hope you will be able to nswer and help me with. I have plans for a perimeter wall made of block. Walls here in Philippines are made very differently & substandardly. I may need to give some dimensions and explain some things about construction here so you can answer my question pertaining to rebar in the wall & footer. That last comment about fiberglass rebar sounds appealing, but I don't think it is available here. The block here in the Philippines is much more different than the block in PA or U.S.. The block in U.S. can be tossed and will not break. Many times he block here will crumble just from being picked up because the block is made substandardly by side-of-the-road contractors/carpenters that use anywhere from a 1:7 to a 1:10 ratio to make the block, where much of the time the and is mixed with dirt to stretch their budget. Then the block is only 3.5" thick, but they say it is 4" thick. Filipinos make perimeter walls from this block add some extra small size rebar vertically, make a 10inch × 10 inch footer, plaster the sides if the wall with .5 inch plastering cement .5inch thickness. What is your opinion on the 10 inch × 10 inch footer for a wall that will end up being 4.5 inch thick after plastering and how do you think this job should be set up. How would you place the rebar in the wall since it is a small block? What size would you use? Thanks.
Hi Ed, I really can't answer those questions as everywhere has different building techniques and materials, I would check the local guys who are seasoned, and get your best opinions, thanks for asking, mike
My neighbor just redid his driveway and the city would not allow him to use rebar. I said that’s stupid it’s gonna separate. Later on he mentioned your required to use fiber. That coupled with what you said and us being in the Chicago area makes sense. A specific psi plus fiber is better for our environment as long as the base is good and there’s no shifting.
Putting steel in concrete makes it a "temporary" construct. My house is 25 years old and, the lintel above my garage door is expanding and cracking the mortar joints above it. The first house I ever remodeled was a brick two flat in Chicago. All the windows were arched as you described and, the brick was in perfect condition.
Mate really great explanation on this... But one point I didn't hear you say is concrete cover over steal I'm from Australia we have a minimum spec of at least 30mm coverage over steel... From my experience here the only time we have issues here with what you are talking about is when the steel is to close to the surface or ground if we do it to the right spec concrete will last 50 years or more I live on the coast so salt air and water Also play apart when we are near the ocean the coverage over steel is a minimum of 50mm and if it's in the ocean or on the beach we would use galvanised reo bar... This method works extremely well here... We don't get the freezing thawing effects like you guys do tho we do deal with other extremes like heat while placing and finishing.. Most of the timehere the cracking has all ready started before the concrete has cured because the heat sucks the life out it making it sink and that lets the water in that starts the reo to rust... And the old buildings you are talking about that are hundreds of years old used bigger stone in there mix the we do today... I've done airport run ways with heavy loads applied it had 40mm stones 80 mpa concrete and it would go in at a 60 slump with reo bar,wire,steel and poly fibre..like you said each situation calls for the right method... Needless to say it was all machine placing and finishing and extremely hard work... but like your video says
That rebar on the bridge supports is clearly way to close to the surface, especially in an environment where there's going to be cold wind and freezing rain battering it for days and months at a time. Surely the rebar and or the concrete can be treated with something to reduce or eliminate the water/moisture ingress?
My grandparemts house had narrow concrete width sidewalks on eiter side of the asphalt driveway. 2 cars wide 2 cars deep. It was built in 1957. My grandparemts passed in 2006. I remember sealcoating the driveway every 5 or so years, with occasional caulking. The concrete never had any issues , i drive by the house and it was covered over in asphalt... He was a math guy. He would work on formulas. I wish i asked him about the sidewalks around the house and along the driveway.
I’m doing a slip form stone structure with 10” walls and I was told to build a 1/2” rebar grid all throughout within the back 2”-3” of the form (leaving front as open as possible for stone to fit) and 3/4” galvanized rebar for horizontal spans above windows. Do you think this will be problematic down the road even if the roof has a good 12” overhang? If so do you see anything that can be done to prolong the life of it? After watching this I was wishing I used the fiberglass rebar but it’s mostly all set in stone now. Thank you for all this great wisdom! Keep the videos coming!
Hey Mike you really get into detail. Thanks for the field trip showing all the rebar expansion and cracking. So with only needing a slab about 12x 24 or there about with rock underneath for drainage , do i need rebar ? I want to do the foundation for a small barn. It will hold 3 horses.
Hey Mike this whole rebar thing makes total sense. For a shop foundation(50x50) would you recommend no rebar/fiberglass rebar and just take extra care to compact the soil before laying the concrete? I believe that the rebar long term doesn't make sense, because even if it wasn't causing the concrete to fail it would still rust and wouldn't hold anyways.
Hi Agustin, I can't say, every situation is different, many masons use wire at least, lots of things to consider, I would ask some local contractors or inspectors in your area,, thanks Mike
I played architect when we built our house in 85. The mason did not put the rebar I specified in the footer when he poured it. We negotiated, and we settled on durawall every other course. Here I thought I was cheated all these years, but the good Lord was looking out for me! Our cinder block walls are as perfect today as the day they laid the 12 inch block! Thanks again Mike for your great advice and experience.
Great, interesting video. I will look at more of your videos. I would like to know how you would suggest going about building a small 2 storey building of concrete columns and beams with block walls and what means of reinforcement would you use?
Hi Henry, In our new world is all ,architects, engineers, permits, code officals ,inspectors, playoffs, etc. etc. Try and get everthing on paper and try to make sure they have the liability on them,,I guess thats my best answer. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Hi Mike. In the country that I intend to build there is no such building rules out in the country. So I can build with or without rebar. I just prefer to get the best outcome and hopefully a structure that will last.
In the UK it was found that a lot of the concrete Cancer was caused by the Rapid Hardening Additives that were added during the mixing process,the reason being the two that we used were acids, they were CCS, Calcium Cloride Solution, another type was Hydrol which we were told was Hydracluric Acid , after this concrete cancer was diagnosed we had to sign our names to our order if we wanted any additives in the mixes.
Gotta put in a 20x40 footer for a quonset hut I bought. Rebar is in the plans, so, I may spray it all with a thick coat of galvanized paint. What do you thinK?
I agree with you on the rebar and wire, we post a video pouring a floor no wire you get the comments. We post a video of no rebar in a wall same thing. People think if you put rebar in a wall it won't crack it's just not true. If you don't put wire mesh in the floor same thing it will crack. Concrete will crack because it shrinks during hydration a 100' wall shrinks 3/8 so it will crack probably 3 times in that distance could be more. The rebar is just a threaded rod holding the crack on both sides together until water gets in and moisture and oxygen cause rust there is the cycle. Same with the floors.
@@MikeHaduck I need to rebuild the front steps of my house. I was initially going to use cinder blocks and put rebar and concrete through the middle of the blocks. I think after watching some of your videos, I have decided against that. May NEW plan of action: Remove old steps, pour footer (if it currently does not have one), do straight masonry work with cinder blocks and leave the holes hollow. Do either a stone or brick facade to make it look nice. Do you have any insight or suggestions?
Thanks for the video Mike. A question: I am putting in a short new girder/joist under my house. One end will sit on the foundation wall and the other end needs a new pier/post and footer. The footer is dug out as 18 inches square and 12 inches deep. I plan to put a standard pier block on top of the footer and then a post up to the girder. Locate in Northern California. Should I put rebar in the footer? If so, what configuration would you recommend? Thanks.
Hi, I can't say, I am not there to see it and california has earthquake codes that I would think you have to follow, check with the local authorities, thanks Mike
Mike I live in American Samoa close to the ocean, my house 20 years old has concrete beams with busted rods, I am in the process or repairing it. My question is right on the beach In front of me are 2 pillar machine gun boxes that are pounded by the waves daily that were built by the Navy 78 years ago. They are not broken up and are still in good shape. Why is that, and what cement mix did they use to build these. I’ll send you a picture of them tomorrow. Thanks for the great information you provided. Alofa atu Wally
Great video. I got criticized for using fiberglass rebar on one of my own jobs even though we know steel fails. About 15 years ago I poured a set of 8 steps and used a piece of galvanized cyclone fence for reinforcing. Not a crack so far, our climate is the same as yours.
Very good information, thankyou for many uploaded clips. I have learnedfrom you a lot. Americans people are nice and kind sharing kwowledge.
I always learn something from you mike. You have a vast amount of experience but even greater than that you have wisdom and common sense to go with it.
I coat my rebar with water-resistant varnish and then take a long sheet of aluminum foil put a little glue on it, then put a thin sheet of plastic and glue it to the foil then sandwich it with another layer of aluminum foil, then glue them tightly together, then wrap it tightly around the rebar and seal it together with silicone and I never worry about rust getting to my rebar. My dad did this 45 years ago when he built his concrete shed and other projects and the concrete hasn't had any issues at all, still looks the same as when he did it back then. Sounds like overkill, but if you want to build something to last, this may not be a bad idea.
Your absolutely spot on ! Steel and concrete are a terrible combination. The bridges here in Connecticut are failing . You can see where the rebar has rusted and expanded causing the concrete to crack and pop off. Also in the winter when water gets in the cracks and freezes. This just accelerates the process. New bridges are now being built with a type of epoxy coated rebar. Should last a bit longer
I am a retired Marine living in Baja California Mexico. All cement work is done with rebarr normally 3/8. Most rot away in 5-7 years. This is due to the salt environment because the area is considered a dry area. Our water supply contains a lot of salt and minerals plus the sand is not what it should be. I lay my foundations with sand and gravel of a minimum of two inches. Then I lay a two inch cement floor staying away from using rebar. This is for a normal patio or home floors. The footing is layer with 3/8 rebar with a heavy filler of rock and gravel. Pillars are reinforced with rebar with poly tubing covering the rebar. I remember my dad wrapping tar paper around the wooden foundations that was layered into the cement.
So I am literally about to go to Home Depot to buy rebar for 30 piers and footers for a small house I'm building. My question -- should I bother? You have convinced me of the problems of rebar -- great work! -- but what now? No support needed for the footers and rebar? Or something else? I'm guessing use a higher PSI concrete 4500 or so, and let it be without rebar. Thoughts?
Hi Doug, I don't say what to do and not do, I just show what I observe and give my take on it, anymore you got to go with what the inspectors engineers codes and architects require, thanks Mike
Hi Mike ..I’m sure you’ve been asked or someone’s commented on or interstate highways chipping away from rusted rebar . If only they had green 3M rust coat for the earlier construct of the freeways
@@MikeHaduck hi Mike ! While I’ve got you on the line ..question for you : how soon after a bathroom concrete patch can I use self leveling concrete material over it ? Thanks again Mike
Mike great videos. I have some warehouses with limestone 3/4” rocks for the drive and two foot ramps leading to overhead doors. Many times the rocks migrate over time. Would it help to pour cement, broom it into the rocks and water with a hose to lock in the rocks. Are the other alternatives short of digging all the rocks and replacing with concrete. Thank you!
Wow, it has been a long time since I learned so much so quickly. I have definitely seen the kind of rotting rebar in old buildings that you showed in your video. This is a serious problem. So, is fiberglass rebar our only recourse if we want something that is going stand for more than a few decades and we need something to help with shearing or tension forces that concrete alone can't handle?
Hello Mr. Haduck. What is the best size or type of rebar to use for a 4 inch thick patio/porch slab that is 12' × 7' ? I am also am a born and bred Pennsylvanian, so I know the weather there well. After watching your video, I was having some thoughts on the matter of its construction. What would be the best way to keep it from cracking and keep it around for many years, especially since it is 4" thick ? I am from Pennsylvania, but retired in the Philippines (big mistake) and we cannot readily get a lot of materials like we can in the U.S. & (believe it or not) most items in the Philippines are much more expensive (4 to 13 times more) than the U.S. prices, so I may have to go a basic alternative route of just using steal deformed rebar. What advice can you give in either direction.. Maybe the next time I am in PA I will say hello. Thanks.
Hi Ed, last time I did a porch like that I just used wire, everything depends on the job, I can't give you a definite answer unless I was there to see it, thanks mike
Sure wish i could get you down to Berks county to help me with the stucco on my foundation. i got estimates and everyone wants to use wire mesh. they won't do the job without!
Epoxy coated rebar has been used on many jobs I have worked over the past few years. One of the earliest uses of reinforced concrete on the East Coast was the Traymore Hotel in Atlantic City built in 1914. I think the extensive use of road salt in PA and other states does more to destroy concrete than people realize. Once that salty water gets soaked up by the concrete the salt works it's way to the rebar and the destruction of the rebar is accelerated by the salt. Same thing happens to concrete exposed to salt or brackish water. I've watched it happen to facilities along the Delaware River over the years.
Say, what if we dip the rebar in melted recycle plastic, make it look like oversize coat hanger material, will it help? Thinking from this direction because it will also lock up a lot of waste plastic for decades. May be? Just may be, is it able to use recycle plastic sticks or mesh along with coated rebar to reinforce concrete? Afterall, plastic are proofed will not decompose for at least a century. Am i thinking on a right path?
As a non-concrete worker, I am wondering, what if aluminum rebar were made? It would not be as strong, I presume, but wouldn’t rust out and expand either, would it? I guess it’s also more expensive to even think of? Thank you for your great info. You are awesome, Mike… Edit: @12:40 After seeing your showing the fiberglass mesh 3x stronger than steel and 4x lighter reinforcing I guess that is the next best less expensive thing… thank you. But is it better? And what’s the cost comparison 🤔
@@davidbroadfoot1864no it’s still corrosion resistant. Ferrous materials can bend an “infinite” amount if stress is low enough. Aluminum would evenly break inside. Also aluminum cost more
trained as architect and structural engineer and we learn new things everyday, see things that scratch the head - and KISS technique is awesome, we use to joke in school about the LARS design method - (Looks about Right) - but caveat in the MHSOCS - not using rebar or welded wire for fully support concrete not suspended is a big ticket item to right if the substructure is not fully prepared correctly - (concrete is no good in tension) and for masonry support and horizontal reinforcement - to keep the brick stone from falling over - either a true masonry wall with a big base like they did in catherdrals then no rebar- old school (awesome amounts of stone work in those still standing no steel reinforced structures ) but veneers need something to "Tie them back if gaining any real height - and we use always take into consideration the environment when having to design concrete structures - epoxy coated rebar, post tension coated cables - things that help retard erosion - but yup. concrete cracks - we tell all our clients - anyone saying different is not being truthful - great video school session -
I heard as a rule of thumb, at least 10 cm of concrete over the rebar to protect it, but seeing how thick the bridge walls were over the concrete when you put your hand there it seems not to be enough. Here in Germany/Europe concrete slabs for sidewalks or driveways are basically nonexistent, everything is bricks/tiles. So we don't know anything about cracks, but we know very well about weed growing in between the bricks/tiles (which can be highly annoying and you wish you had a slab).
Hey Mike, long time viewer here. Sorry for the long post, but here are a few points of interest everyone might like. Fiberglass rebar has actually been around about a hundred years. I'll get back to that in a sec, but first some quick history (just the high points)... the French "invented" or popularized the use of steel rebar in the mid 1800's. In the days of few building codes, it was slow to be adopted in the US. Then, in the early 1900's, a bell tower near San Francisco was built using steel rebar. Many engineers of the day made fun of it, and said using steel rebar was overkill, and a big waste of money. But when that bell tower was still standing after the great San Francisco Earthquake of 1906, a trend set off in America for using rebar in concrete. This trend was "reinforced" a few years later in 1910 when 10 construction workers were killed by a masonry wall collapse. The blame was given to "not enough rebar used" when in fact the failure was caused by the premature removal of some critical shoring. Big stories like these hitting the newspapers (going viral) back in the day - that's how the stupidity of steel rebar really took over in this country. Engineers bought into the hype without really knowing the facts. Any Chemist, Geologist, or Geophysicist could have told them that concrete is a sponge and steel rebar is NOT a good thing to mix with it. Anyway, both fiberglass and basalt rebar have been around longer than most people realize. Up until a few years ago, it was WAY more expensive than steel rebar, but that's not really the case any more. It was traditionally only used in marine environments, so even though it was costly to buy up front, the savings on later fixes made it actually cheaper in the long run. Fun Fact: Walt Disney used a ton of it the construction of his parks. Years later (1998) when they went to demolish the old "Submarine Voyage" ride in the Anaheim park, they had a terrible time tearing out the old concrete because the fiberglass rebar concrete was still extremely strong. The concrete was too thick in places so cutting wasn't an easy option, and the concrete was held together with such monolithic strength that they were all scratching their heads at first. Eventually, they had to hire extra-heavy equipment to remove it and it took a lot longer to do so. And after 40 years of being in place, it was noted that the rebar was "still like brand new." I wish we could say the same for all our bridges in the US. By the way, the Mckinleyville Bridge over Buffalo Creek in WV built in 1996 is the first vehicular bridge in the U.S. to be done with fiberglass rebar. Well, it's a start... one down, and 617,000 or so to go (there are roughly that many bridges in the US). FYI, if anyone is going to get into non-steel rebar, please don't buy the junk that comes from various places overseas. It's no good. There's a place in Texas that makes it called Kodiak, and I think they're one of the few who actually manufacturer it here in the US. They may be the only one. A lot of companies will tell you they make it here, but they actually just sell the imported junk. These companies will "assemble" it here in the US (eg. they'll make the corner bends here) but then they dishonestly say it's 100% "made here." Don't be fooled. Now, I don't know the guys in TX, so I'm not trying to plug them, it's just a fact that they actually make it here in the US. FYI, the psi of fiberglass rebar is 75,000 to 150,000 depending on which size you get. That is CRAZY strong! You would have to pay big bucks for grade 40, 60 or 75 in steel rebar to get those kind of psi strength ratings, and you'd still have the rust problem. So if you need strength - fiberglass or basalt rebar is a lot cheaper than steel compared to the same psi for steel. And you won't EVER have to redo your project due to rusting, cracking, spalling, etc of the concrete... heck, even your great, great grandkids won't have to redo it if you use fiberglass rebar from the get-go. One last thing... the worlds strongest concrete according to rigorous scientific verification is a section of breakwater/seawall in the Bay of Pozzuoli, near Naples, Italy. It's the strongest and it contains no rebar. Mainly because it was built there in 37AD by the Romans. This concrete is actually stronger than the day they installed it nearly 2,000 years ago. It actually gets a little stronger ever year (thanks to a process called Al-tobermorite crystallization). Thanks for all your great vids over the years Mike. Pin this to the top if you want everyone else to see it.
Hi Qool, thanks for all the great info, theres a lot of important information that everyone should read, I will try to figure out how to pin it to the top, thanks greatly for you input, I hope everyone gets to read it, mike
Living in the Bay Area not a lot is made out of brick and when I saw rebar assumed it was always for structural engineering for earthquakes as you noted
way too long, make it concise
@@tomdenton26 -Thanks for the input Tom. As a former military journalist, I've always tried to stick to the ABC's of reporting... Accuracy, Brevity, and Clarity... but I've never been very good at the brevity part. lol
I read the whole thing and as an engineer i have hard on. Appreciate the long story now that i had time to read it. In short, there is a viable alternative to steel reinforcing bar.
Mike, my Grandfather was a bricklayer in Cleveland, Ohio. He had such pride in his work and as a kid he would show me different styles of bricklaying. He also built a lot of stone fireplaces and floors. He and my grandmother were my favorite people ever!!! Your accent and teaching style remind me so much of him. He would have loved your UA-cam channel, I am sure.
(By accent, I mean to say that I was raised in the South my entire life.)
Thanks Pepper, I appreciate that, that was the type of guys I learned from, Mike
@@pebs65 Grandparents were the UA-cam of the 70s , I think people are missing a lot not knowing their grandparents
Extremely comprehensive, logical and intuitive.
Thanks rob,, Mike
Thanks to this guy, I started picking up stone on the side of the road on the way home for over 2 years and built a stone patio in my backyard. Thanks I guess Mike, my wife hated me so much! She loves it now though.
Hi Jonathan, lol yep that's the way wimmin is, and it probably ended up it was her idea, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck :D
Living in Northern Utah, I just had a new driveway poured last fall and they used no rebar. Contractor told me I didn’t want it for this reason and I now I see why.
Thanks mini, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
Thanks Mike, for passing down more of your knowledge..
Thanks nick, Mike
I'm a contractor and this is excellent information. Thank You for the video.
Thanks Michael, Mike
I do mansonry in nyc and its a niche part of construction not too many young people coming in im 25
Thanks, Mike
Are you with the Local 1 ??
Outstanding video thanks for making this video it makes my life a little easier when constructing in puerto rico.
Thanks george,, Mike
Local building code where I live specifies sidewalks, driveways, patios, etc. have no rebar. This was done for concrete recycling purposes, they don't have to separate the steel from the concrete, only crush it for recycling. Rebar is put into concrete for strength when the concrete has tension forces as concrete is good under compression, but not tension. Structural usage such as footers, columns, etc. assumes the concrete will be subjected to both compression and tension which is why building codes require rebar. What is the alternative to rebar for strengthening concrete for tension forces?
yup, In my opinion, concrete with rebar has higher maintenance requirements, that's all.
And yes it's impossible to keep water our forever. I settle for 50 years :-)
Hi Buckhorn, I agree, that makes sense, tell it The local inspectors, Mike
Mike, thanks for another informative video. It's a no brainer that every time you release a video it's getting a thumbs up from me. You are absolutely correct about how other countries get projects done more efficiently than we do here. When I spent time working in Zurich Switzerland, I would see several men laying cobblestone by hand in intricate decorative patterns in the morning as I passed by and later in the day as I came back by the entire street would be done and no evidence that earlier in the day the entire street had been redone. Thanks again. TP
Thanks TP, I agree, but nobody wants to hear it in the usa, maybe someday, lol, Mike
Hi Mike just got done repairing my porch. I watched your videos on this. It was all broken up so dug it all out cleaned the area applied material spread it out and then sponged it all out and It came out looking nice. My wife was very happy. Thanks for the training and tips. Now on to my chimney.
Thanks Bob, Mike
Mike, I’m a structural engineer for 43 years, rebar is used for tensile forces, concrete is strong for compression but when there is bending you need rebar in the tension zone. That’s why the rebar is 3” up from the bottom of the footing, not on top of the footing.
Hi tweety, I understand that, thanks Mike
Outstanding video. We shared this information with a friend who lives in Mendocino County, CA. They have a lot of rain and moisture. He's going to purchase non metallic rebar for his pato and walkway.
He's also introduced in the fiber mesh for concrete strength......
We are very grateful too you for sharing your knowledge. God bless 🙏
Thanks lizza, God bless. MIKE
Very good video.
@13:07 Where you say you learn more when taking old projects apart than when doing new projects. This is spot on. A comparison is with mechanical watches. Arguably the best manufacturer of mechanical watches in the world, Greubel Forsey, started out repairing watches. And he (Stephen Forsey) said he learned how to build the best watches by taking apart old watches to see what worked and what eventually fell apart.
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment, I agree 100%, Mike
you do a great service educating everyone on rebar in concrete. it's wonderful you make these vids, thanks mike. AND I ordered more tshirts!
Thanks Thor, I am honored and humbled, mike
I'm not a mason or anything like that, but in NYC there is a mixture of old skyscrapers built with steel skeletons (like the Empire State Building) and more modern ones with rebar reinforce poured concrete skeletons. Some of these buildings are more than 50 stories tall. If there is a leak hidden behind the fancy interior design work, am I right in assuming that the metal rebar expansion and concrete cracking will also happen in these buildings? They might use special concrete but I'm not sure whether it will prevent water penetration for 100 years. Imagine you buy a condominium on the 40th floor, and several structural columns are compromised. The whole building would have to be evacuated for safety in case of collapse.
Thanks , I agree , it's only a matter of time, mike
Good advice Mike. I'm born, raised and work construction in the San Francisco Bay Area. We remove and replace concrete with steel that was placed 60 + years ago and some of the steel comes out without serious corrosion. Depends on the site but the best advice comes from you: it all depends on where you live, everything is different in other parts of the country. All the best MH, I enjoy the videos!
Thanks Dough, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
As long as the metal doesn’t get lots of oxygen it won’t oxidize (rust rot)
What about epoxy coated rebar or stainless steel wall ties? More expensive but should last much longer.
I heard th hey use it , time would tell, thanks Mike
Gal mesh, but adds cost.
Epoxy coated rebar is being phased out. It’s actually made the problem worse in some conditions when the epoxy gets nicked (as it always does) and water gets trapped up under it.
Mike I love this video and all your stuff, would you be interested in doing an Interview? About concrete and rebar vs fiber rebar or whatever
Hi Grubb, I appreciate you asking, but I am not the people that do continuous studys on it, I'm the guy who just notices what happened when I tear things down, ,but I appreciate you asking, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck that's what's up, thanks 4 response
I just found your channel! I love it. I am about to do a little patio and steps. I like the fact you slip a little verse in this one too! Shalom.
Thanks Wendy, Shalom, Mike
I heard the PH of the concrete would preserve the rebar unless it gets constant water infiltration. I have been coating my concrete work with heavy duty Concrete paint that comes in 5 gallon buckets with some kind of a grit like material in it shortly after I remove the forms...Every now and then I’ll see a 5 gallon bucket of it at the big box store in the oops / Clarance MisTint area and pick it up for $10 or $20 versus $120 regular price. I also try to use a zinc rich primer and some kind of paint over anything that’s getting buried in the concrete pour. I always feel sort of OCD when I’m doing this stuff but I hope it last a little longer.
Hi CY, I always say, anything that works, thanks Mike
Another great video! The sill seal is a must and really works good. Like you have said and people are realizing... concrete needs to "float" or be independent of everything. As soon as you lock things in to tight....BOOM there's your first crack. Thanks Mike
Thanks Gibson, I agree, Mike
That post by Qool Qoin made a lot of sense. Side bar TBH I didn't think it was too long for what was said. Not an engineer but have wondered for some time about putting metal in concrete. Just didn't make good sense to me but figured the "experts" knew what they were doing. Boy was I wrong. Thanks again. And Mike, thanks to you for all your informative videos.
Thanks Rudy, Mike
Back in the late 70s I had a contract on military bases building walls for substations. The plans called for rebar every 12” in the walls which were underground. We rodbusted, built forms and did concrete to save money. If we spaced one 13” the inspectors would act like they caught John Dillinger. Pretty sure tax payers have have paid to replace those......with the same specs. Nice video, very helpful....use common sense.
Thanks Lester, Mike
for patios, I like to use welded wire fencing thats coated with rubber. its like water proof rebar
Thanks, mike
Loved your rebar and rust video. Rebar only temporarily solves the problem. Job security for thr bridge repair profession.
Question: I would like to build an insulated slab on grade home with in floor heat. Would 6" fiber mesh concrete or 4" concrete with pink rebar work the best on top of Owens Corning R15 XPS in Custer, SD?
I also am going to use 8" thermal studs (t studs) for walls and have ground mount solar panels for trying to be energy efficient. At 72 years of age I have one last chance to do it right !
I used a water heater 20 years ago to heat a gypcrete floor in a sunroom remodel project and let it run wild keeping the floor about 82° with the house stat controlling the rest ($350 water heater boiler vs a $3000 boiler). My wife suggested putting the radiant supply tubes in the middle of the floor with the returns near the outside walls. Great idea, worked well with less heat loss due to the cooler temps neat the outside walls. She said we sit in the middle of theroom not near the outside walls. Being a retired eng, I know she is smarter than me!
Thanks for the informing videos.
Elmer
Thanks Elmer, I can't say on that, but thanks for asking, Mike
Mike Haduck for President!!! Man, this is awesome common sense stuff. Not too common anymore. Thank you!!! :-)
Thanks Brad, I appreciate the kind words, Mike
Thank you. You've just made my new garage much better.
Hi fester, talk to the locals if your not sure, thanks Mike
Just wanted to say ... learning concrete (and the science behind). I started learning from all your experience. Thank You for sharing!
Thanks, Mike
Mike, you sure proved your point with those shots of the bridges and loading dock and angle iron. OMG that must have been an avalanche when that whole brick wall came down. So much for wall ties. The idea of slapping a brick facing onto a block wall always struck me as kinda dumb and that disaster confirms it. Thanks as always, for your continuing education classes.
Thanks Bill, I appreciate it, Mike
Very informative. In my neck of the woods, there's the compounding damage from water getting into a crack or alongside the rebar-concrete interface and freezing. The expansion power of freezing water breaks mountains apart so preventing or minimizing water entry in the first place is essential maintenance.
Thanks, Mike
That answers a lot but leaves me with the same question: to rebar or not to rebar?
I live in the PNW where it rains a lot.
I just bought a house that was built in 1912. The basement is a hodgepodge of stacked stones and cinderblocks and stacked stone and repointing on top of repointing. The stacked stone needs repointing. The cinderblocks look like they were added later.
Secondary issue is water run off. Not just from the house but a parking lot from an apartment complex. The appropriate drainage is being put in however when putting in this drainage around the house is when the scope of the water damage was seen.
So coming full circle:
Should I keep the stacked stone and just repoint while reinforced with metal mesh or replace with cinderblock & rebar or just replace with cinderblock?
I cant answer That, every situation is different, I would ask the locals, Mike
@@MikeHaduck thank you!
Very relevant considering what happened in Florida with condo collapse.
Thanks Bob, Mike
Besides “fall of cabal “ all 10 episodes this is the only video that I ve watched to the end
you are very interesting thank you so much for all the information and I will check your videos out you’re awesome
Thanks Luisa, mike
Why not use a spray on rust inhibitor for the rebar? Wouldn't that make it last longer?
Hi Berserk, I see it done, it's like painting a car, that only last a matter of time too, thanks mike
Mike ❗️
Always great to watch you epitomizing common sense 👍
I salute you wise man❗️ ✋😎👍
Greetings from Greenwich London ⚓️⛵️🏰
Thanks, nice to hear from Greenwich London, mike
i really like that wrap the pipe or piece of wood idea, i'll add that step to my posts
Thanks, Mike
I love your videos! Your experience is invaluable and I love how you travel the world and look at stone and masonry work through out history to gain perspective and learn from the past! Regarding the use of rebar in concrete. One thing that I think could have been better communicated is that rebar inside of concrete isn't just to hold it together when it cracks, it is also there to give concrete structural rigidity. Concrete without rebar wouldn't be able to span the same distances or carry the same loads. The two work together; rebar provides the rigidity and concrete provides the compressional strength. You could build with out rebar but you would have to use much more material and every span would have to be an arch.
Thanks Sean, mike
On longer spans, tensioned rebar is better as untensioned rebar flexes before concrete does, causing concrete to crack.
Mike did u ever consider being a masonry teacher in your days at a regional school, I could listen to y'all all day every day. Ur a very well rounded mason with knowledge like no other. Ty 4 all ur information. Ur the man
Thanks Jamie, no, I am a bit old for that but thanks anyway, Mike
some great information here. just about ready to do my garage base now i have some new ideas to make it last. thanks.
Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike, just found your channel, very informative. Here in the UK , not only is our Prime Minister 'very wet,'( useless) so is the weather. I'm currently doing a small extension on the garage, and i've dug into hard clay. It's summer, and the ground is rock hard, especially clay. Although in my eyes I've over engineered this small project, I'm still using rebar. I've watched your vids and decided to use it, but making sure its 4'' in from any tench side wall. Hope that makes sense. Love the common sense way of doing things, Take care bud.
Thanks steve, Mike
another satisfying video Mike. I feel like I learn a lot from you. Thanks
Thanks A S, Mike
Hello again. I have one more question I hope you will be able to nswer and help me with. I have plans for a perimeter wall made of block. Walls here in Philippines are made very differently & substandardly. I may need to give some dimensions and explain some things about construction here so you can answer my question pertaining to rebar in the wall & footer. That last comment about fiberglass rebar sounds appealing, but I don't think it is available here. The block here in the Philippines is much more different than the block in PA or U.S.. The block in U.S. can be tossed and will not break. Many times he block here will crumble just from being picked up because the block is made substandardly by side-of-the-road contractors/carpenters that use anywhere from a 1:7 to a 1:10 ratio to make the block, where much of the time the and is mixed with dirt to stretch their budget. Then the block is only 3.5" thick, but they say it is 4" thick. Filipinos make perimeter walls from this block add some extra small size rebar vertically, make a 10inch × 10 inch footer, plaster the sides if the wall with .5 inch plastering cement .5inch thickness. What is your opinion on the 10 inch × 10 inch footer for a wall that will end up being 4.5 inch thick after plastering and how do you think this job should be set up. How would you place the rebar in the wall since it is a small block? What size would you use? Thanks.
Hi Ed, I really can't answer those questions as everywhere has different building techniques and materials, I would check the local guys who are seasoned, and get your best opinions, thanks for asking, mike
My neighbor just redid his driveway and the city would not allow him to use rebar. I said that’s stupid it’s gonna separate. Later on he mentioned your required to use fiber. That coupled with what you said and us being in the Chicago area makes sense. A specific psi plus fiber is better for our environment as long as the base is good and there’s no shifting.
That makes sense, I heard it because of recycling, thanks Mike
We now use ice and water shield to wrap out posts. Works to prevent moisture from getting in and doing damage!
Thanks Tom. Mike
Putting steel in concrete makes it a "temporary" construct. My house is 25 years old and, the lintel above my garage door is expanding and cracking the mortar joints above it. The first house I ever remodeled was a brick two flat in Chicago. All the windows were arched as you described and, the brick was in perfect condition.
Thanks David, mike
@ 8:48, you can coat the rebar, whatever it’s with asphalt.
thanks, Mike
Mate really great explanation on this...
But one point I didn't hear you say is concrete cover over steal I'm from Australia we have a minimum spec of at least 30mm coverage over steel...
From my experience here the only time we have issues here with what you are talking about is when the steel is to close to the surface or ground if we do it to the right spec concrete will last 50 years or more I live on the coast so salt air and water Also play apart when we are near the ocean the coverage over steel is a minimum of 50mm and if it's in the ocean or on the beach we would use galvanised reo bar...
This method works extremely well here...
We don't get the freezing thawing effects like you guys do tho we do deal with other extremes like heat while placing and finishing..
Most of the timehere the cracking has all ready started before the concrete has cured because the heat sucks the life out it making it sink and that lets the water in that starts the reo to rust...
And the old buildings you are talking about that are hundreds of years old used bigger stone in there mix the we do today...
I've done airport run ways with heavy loads applied it had 40mm stones 80 mpa concrete and it would go in at a 60 slump with reo bar,wire,steel and poly fibre..like you said each situation calls for the right method...
Needless to say it was all machine placing and finishing and extremely hard work... but like your video says
Thanks Joshua, I appreciate hearing that, it makes sense to me, Mike
I'm going to be using fiberglass rebar on a project next year.
Hi Felix, I started using some but I think the jury is still out on it, thanks Mike
That rebar on the bridge supports is clearly way to close to the surface, especially in an environment where there's going to be cold wind and freezing rain battering it for days and months at a time. Surely the rebar and or the concrete can be treated with something to reduce or eliminate the water/moisture ingress?
Thanks, Mike
Interesting subject Mike.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Joe, Mike
My grandparemts house had narrow concrete width sidewalks on eiter side of the asphalt driveway. 2 cars wide 2 cars deep.
It was built in 1957.
My grandparemts passed in 2006.
I remember sealcoating the driveway every 5 or so years, with occasional caulking.
The concrete never had any issues , i drive by the house and it was covered over in asphalt...
He was a math guy.
He would work on formulas.
I wish i asked him about the sidewalks around the house and along the driveway.
Thanks Hawkeye, Mike
9:22 We use Tremco to coat the wood b4 putting the concrete in.
Thanks Beach, Mike
I’m doing a slip form stone structure with 10” walls and I was told to build a 1/2” rebar grid all throughout within the back 2”-3” of the form (leaving front as open as possible for stone to fit) and 3/4” galvanized rebar for horizontal spans above windows. Do you think this will be problematic down the road even if the roof has a good 12” overhang? If so do you see anything that can be done to prolong the life of it? After watching this I was wishing I used the fiberglass rebar but it’s mostly all set in stone now. Thank you for all this great wisdom! Keep the videos coming!
Hi Ben, anymore you got to do what ever the powers to be say, inspectors etc. Thanks Mike
Hey Mike you really get into detail. Thanks for the field trip showing all the rebar expansion and cracking.
So with only needing a slab about 12x 24 or there about with rock underneath for drainage , do i need rebar ? I want to do the foundation for a small barn. It will hold 3 horses.
Hi Rashelly,, I would talk with your contractor and inspectors, every situation is diffrent, thank Mike
Hey Mike this whole rebar thing makes total sense. For a shop foundation(50x50) would you recommend no rebar/fiberglass rebar and just take extra care to compact the soil before laying the concrete? I believe that the rebar long term doesn't make sense, because even if it wasn't causing the concrete to fail it would still rust and wouldn't hold anyways.
Hi Agustin, I can't say, every situation is different, many masons use wire at least, lots of things to consider, I would ask some local contractors or inspectors in your area,, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I understand. Thank you.
What if you spray the rebar or wire fabric with rust converter before installing it?
Hi Mark, I couldn't say, time would tell, Mike
It will wash out eventually
I played architect when we built our house in 85. The mason did not put the rebar I specified in the footer when he poured it. We negotiated, and we settled on durawall every other course. Here I thought I was cheated all these years, but the good Lord was looking out for me! Our cinder block walls are as perfect today as the day they laid the 12 inch block! Thanks again Mike for your great advice and experience.
Thanks, mike
Great, interesting video. I will look at more of your videos. I would like to know how you would suggest going about building a small 2 storey building of concrete columns and beams with block walls and what means of reinforcement would you use?
Hi Henry, In our new world is all ,architects, engineers, permits, code officals ,inspectors, playoffs, etc. etc. Try and get everthing on paper and try to make sure they have the liability on them,,I guess thats my best answer. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Hi Mike. In the country that I intend to build there is no such building rules out in the country. So I can build with or without rebar. I just prefer to get the best outcome and hopefully a structure that will last.
If you can get good quality fibreglass rebar, that is a great option.
In the UK it was found that a lot of the concrete Cancer was caused by the Rapid Hardening Additives that were added during the mixing process,the reason being the two that we used were acids, they were CCS, Calcium Cloride Solution, another type was Hydrol which we were told was Hydracluric Acid , after this concrete cancer was diagnosed we had to sign our names to our order if we wanted any additives in the mixes.
Hi Terence, I hear you, thanks Mike
How would you build a small retainer wall for a flower bed. If you could be so kind to answer ASAP to make sure it doesn't fall over.
Hi Pat, I have a playlist. Called "retaining walls" Mike haduck, I show all different types of walls and the techniques I use, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck thank you
Can you observe the rebar/concrete work on decommissioned missile silos?
Their rebar is very think but the concrete layer is also very thick
Hi Kurt, yep, that's a different world, I guess they have a shelf life also, thanks Mike
Gotta put in a 20x40 footer for a quonset hut I bought. Rebar is in the plans, so, I may spray it all with a thick coat of galvanized paint. What do you thinK?
Hi capefear, I can't say, if it is required it is required, whatever the inspectors say anymore, thanks Mike
I agree with you on the rebar and wire, we post a video pouring a floor no wire you get the comments. We post a video of no rebar in a wall same thing. People think if you put rebar in a wall it won't crack it's just not true. If you don't put wire mesh in the floor same thing it will crack. Concrete will crack because it shrinks during hydration a 100' wall shrinks 3/8 so it will crack probably 3 times in that distance could be more. The rebar is just a threaded rod holding the crack on both sides together until water gets in and moisture and oxygen cause rust there is the cycle. Same with the floors.
Thanks steve, I agree, mike
Thanks! I think I will skip the rebar for my small project
Hi, everything depends, Mike
@@MikeHaduck I need to rebuild the front steps of my house. I was initially going to use cinder blocks and put rebar and concrete through the middle of the blocks. I think after watching some of your videos, I have decided against that. May NEW plan of action: Remove old steps, pour footer (if it currently does not have one), do straight masonry work with cinder blocks and leave the holes hollow. Do either a stone or brick facade to make it look nice. Do you have any insight or suggestions?
Thanks for the video Mike. A question: I am putting in a short new girder/joist under my house. One end will sit on the foundation wall and the other end needs a new pier/post and footer. The footer is dug out as 18 inches square and 12 inches deep. I plan to put a standard pier block on top of the footer and then a post up to the girder. Locate in Northern California. Should I put rebar in the footer? If so, what configuration would you recommend? Thanks.
Hi, I can't say, I am not there to see it and california has earthquake codes that I would think you have to follow, check with the local authorities, thanks Mike
Mike I live in American Samoa close to the ocean, my house 20 years old has concrete beams with busted rods, I am in the process or repairing it. My question is right on the beach In front of me are 2 pillar machine gun boxes that are pounded by the waves daily that were built by the Navy 78 years ago. They are not broken up and are still in good shape. Why is that, and what cement mix did they use to build these. I’ll send you a picture of them tomorrow. Thanks for the great information you provided. Alofa atu Wally
Hi Wally, I am not sure, but it had to be Portland, maybe the marine life is keeping it together? Thanks Mike
Great video. I got criticized for using fiberglass rebar on one of my own jobs even though we know steel fails. About 15 years ago I poured a set of 8 steps and used a piece of galvanized cyclone fence for reinforcing. Not a crack so far, our climate is the same as yours.
Thanks Karl, Mike
Very good information, thankyou for many uploaded clips. I have learnedfrom you a lot. Americans people are nice and kind sharing kwowledge.
Thanks vector, mike
I worked on a waffle grid parking area under the Modern Woodmen building in Rock Island,Illinois. Rebar rusted,concrete fell and damaged cars.
Thanks Charles, mike
thank you for this video, a wealth of information!!!
Thanks Joni, Mike
Hi Mike just wondering why didnt the MANUFACTUERS OF REBAR.! COAT there REBAR with a rubber or plastic coating.!! jUST WONDERING. THANKS.
Hi, Some do, and you see it more and more on highway work, thanks ,Mike
I always learn something from you mike. You have a vast amount of experience but even greater than that you have wisdom and common sense to go with it.
Thanks Gary, I appreciate hearing that, Mike
I coat my rebar with water-resistant varnish and then take a long sheet of aluminum foil put a little glue on it, then put a thin sheet of plastic and glue it to the foil then sandwich it with another layer of aluminum foil, then glue them tightly together, then wrap it tightly around the rebar and seal it together with silicone and I never worry about rust getting to my rebar. My dad did this 45 years ago when he built his concrete shed and other projects and the concrete hasn't had any issues at all, still looks the same as when he did it back then. Sounds like overkill, but if you want to build something to last, this may not be a bad idea.
Thanks for the Input, Mike
Your absolutely spot on ! Steel and concrete are a terrible combination. The bridges here in Connecticut are failing . You can see where the rebar has rusted and expanded causing the concrete to crack and pop off. Also in the winter when water gets in the cracks and freezes. This just accelerates the process. New bridges are now being built with a type of epoxy coated rebar. Should last a bit longer
Thanks again, Mike
I am a retired Marine living in Baja California Mexico. All cement work is done with rebarr normally 3/8. Most rot away in 5-7 years. This is due to the salt environment because the area is considered a dry area. Our water supply contains a lot of salt and minerals plus the sand is not what it should be. I lay my foundations with sand and gravel of a minimum of two inches. Then I lay a two inch cement floor staying away from using rebar.
This is for a normal patio or home floors. The footing is layer with 3/8 rebar with a heavy filler of rock and gravel. Pillars are reinforced with rebar with poly tubing covering the rebar. I remember my dad wrapping tar paper around the wooden foundations that was layered into the cement.
Thanks Richard, Mike
So I am literally about to go to Home Depot to buy rebar for 30 piers and footers for a small house I'm building. My question -- should I bother? You have convinced me of the problems of rebar -- great work! -- but what now? No support needed for the footers and rebar? Or something else? I'm guessing use a higher PSI concrete 4500 or so, and let it be without rebar. Thoughts?
Hi Doug, I don't say what to do and not do, I just show what I observe and give my take on it, anymore you got to go with what the inspectors engineers codes and architects require, thanks Mike
What happened to the original title of "Rebar Can Equal Fubar?" Rolls right off the tongue, Mike!
Thanks Brian, Mike
Hi Mike ..I’m sure you’ve been asked or someone’s commented on or interstate highways chipping away from rusted rebar . If only they had green 3M rust coat for the earlier construct of the freeways
Thanks gman,, Mike
@@MikeHaduck hi Mike ! While I’ve got you on the line ..question for you : how soon after a bathroom concrete patch can I use self leveling concrete material over it ? Thanks again Mike
@gman5051 hi man, I can't say, I would see what the drying time suggested on the package, thanks Mike
Mike great videos. I have some warehouses with limestone 3/4” rocks for the drive and two foot ramps leading to overhead doors. Many times the rocks migrate over time. Would it help to pour cement, broom it into the rocks and water with a hose to lock in the rocks. Are the other alternatives short of digging all the rocks and replacing with concrete. Thank you!
Hi Carlos, I can not say unless I was there to see it, I would get some ideas from the local guys, thanks, Mike
Have you ever saw or use GRRP or CFR rebar? should be the way to go if it doesnt expand,rust or crack over time.
Hi Sebastien, I think they are still hopeful on that, thanks Mike
Wow, it has been a long time since I learned so much so quickly. I have definitely seen the kind of rotting rebar in old buildings that you showed in your video. This is a serious problem. So, is fiberglass rebar our only recourse if we want something that is going stand for more than a few decades and we need something to help with shearing or tension forces that concrete alone can't handle?
Hi David, I think the Jury might still be out on fiberglass but it seems to be coming popular, thanks Mike
Hello Mr. Haduck. What is the best size or type of rebar to use for a 4 inch thick patio/porch slab that is 12' × 7' ? I am also am a born and bred Pennsylvanian, so I know the weather there well. After watching your video, I was having some thoughts on the matter of its construction. What would be the best way to keep it from cracking and keep it around for many years, especially since it is 4" thick ? I am from Pennsylvania, but retired in the Philippines (big mistake) and we cannot readily get a lot of materials like we can in the U.S. & (believe it or not) most items in the Philippines are much more expensive (4 to 13 times more) than the U.S. prices, so I may have to go a basic alternative route of just using steal deformed rebar. What advice can you give in either direction.. Maybe the next time I am in PA I will say hello. Thanks.
Hi Ed, last time I did a porch like that I just used wire, everything depends on the job, I can't give you a definite answer unless I was there to see it, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck what kind of things would you need to know so you could answer?
Sure wish i could get you down to Berks county to help me with the stucco on my foundation. i got estimates and everyone wants to use wire mesh. they won't do the job without!
Hi, I don't know what to say, every Mason had their own techniques, mikr
Epoxy coated rebar has been used on many jobs I have worked over the past few years. One of the earliest uses of reinforced concrete on the East Coast was the Traymore Hotel in Atlantic City built in 1914. I think the extensive use of road salt in PA and other states does more to destroy concrete than people realize. Once that salty water gets soaked up by the concrete the salt works it's way to the rebar and the destruction of the rebar is accelerated by the salt. Same thing happens to concrete exposed to salt or brackish water. I've watched it happen to facilities along the Delaware River over the years.
Thanks Bob, I agree, mike
Say, what if we dip the rebar in melted recycle plastic, make it look like oversize coat hanger material, will it help? Thinking from this direction because it will also lock up a lot of waste plastic for decades. May be? Just may be, is it able to use recycle plastic sticks or mesh along with coated rebar to reinforce concrete? Afterall, plastic are proofed will not decompose for at least a century. Am i thinking on a right path?
Hi luderick,,,, maybe. Thanks Mike
As a non-concrete worker, I am wondering, what if aluminum rebar were made? It would not be as strong, I presume, but wouldn’t rust out and expand either, would it?
I guess it’s also more expensive to even think of?
Thank you for your great info. You are awesome, Mike…
Edit:
@12:40
After seeing your showing the fiberglass mesh 3x stronger than steel and 4x lighter reinforcing I guess that is the next best less expensive thing… thank you.
But is it better? And what’s the cost comparison 🤔
Hi, things are changing , and I think the Jury is still out on these new products, thanks mike
Aluminium resists corrosion in the air, but not when underground.
@@davidbroadfoot1864no it’s still corrosion resistant. Ferrous materials can bend an “infinite” amount if stress is low enough. Aluminum would evenly break inside. Also aluminum cost more
Mike, Wraping the wood post before pouring concrete allows for the post to be lose immediately.
Tanks Darrell, Mike
Wow this video was an eye opener. Thanks Mike
Can plastic mesh be used be used instead in a garage 5” slab in RI?
Hi Douglas, I can't say what to use, buti show what I use on my concrete.sidewalk or concrete slab videos, thanks Mike
So informative with evidence. Great Video. Take care Sir
Thanks, Mike
Excellent video. I watched several more after seeing this. Thanks for the information.
Thanks Michael, Mike
Great video Mike, very informative. Thanks
Thanks Darwin, Mike
Great video. I'm constantly looking for information like this. Mostly to share with home owners and GCs. Common Sense ain't so common
Thanks Mainely, mike
in florida coastal applications for piles foundation do you suggest epoxy coated rebar or just regular rebar as its below ground?
Thanks, Mike
trained as architect and structural engineer and we learn new things everyday, see things that scratch the head - and KISS technique is awesome, we use to joke in school about the LARS design method - (Looks about Right) - but caveat in the MHSOCS - not using rebar or welded wire for fully support concrete not suspended is a big ticket item to right if the substructure is not fully prepared correctly - (concrete is no good in tension) and for masonry support and horizontal reinforcement - to keep the brick stone from falling over - either a true masonry wall with a big base like they did in catherdrals then no rebar- old school (awesome amounts of stone work in those still standing no steel reinforced structures ) but veneers need something to "Tie them back if gaining any real height - and we use always take into consideration the environment when having to design concrete structures - epoxy coated rebar, post tension coated cables - things that help retard erosion - but yup. concrete cracks - we tell all our clients - anyone saying different is not being truthful - great video school session -
Thanks harley, i appreciate the comment, mike
I heard as a rule of thumb, at least 10 cm of concrete over the rebar to protect it, but seeing how thick the bridge walls were over the concrete when you put your hand there it seems not to be enough.
Here in Germany/Europe concrete slabs for sidewalks or driveways are basically nonexistent, everything is bricks/tiles. So we don't know anything about cracks, but we know very well about weed growing in between the bricks/tiles (which can be highly annoying and you wish you had a slab).
Hi whuzzz,,,, around here the slabs all crack up and weeds grow anyway, lol. Thanks Mike
I was about to waste time and money putting iron in an 8 x 8, 2 foot tall stoop (cabin in the woods, no permit needed). Thanks for the common sense!
Thanks, Mike
I was always under the impression that the alkalinity of the wet crete passivated the steel during the pour.
Hi Taylor, it is what it is, Thanks Mike
Great video Sir. Very informative and interesting. You're an obvious craftsman. God Bless You...!!!
Thanks Joseph, Mike