Hi Andy. At 45.04, you show the button for the foot controller pedal being operated by the foot. I have seen before elsewhere that you rest your HEEL on the elevated step, and turn your ankle to operate the button and the machine. I guess it might make more sense, ergonomics of resting your foot on length of pedal also, with a little twist of the ankle to actuate the sewing machine.
There are many opinions about using the button-style pedal. It has been years, but when I asked a couple of retired Singer Repairmen about it they said the cord end should face away from you and the button should face you. The BALL of your foot/shoe (behind your last two toes) should rest on the "rest button" (the one that does not move) and when you want to sew you turn your ankle to press down on the "activation" button (that moves) with the other side of the ball of your foot/shoe (behind your big toe). The HEEL of your foot/shoe stays on the floor/ground. Here is a web page that shows this method: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/the-design-of-and-how-to-use-the-featherweight-foot-controller I have also seen this description in a Singer Instruction Manual and I just spent 40 minutes looking thru them to find it, but I could not find the manual. Thanks for watching my channel, and I say use the pedal the way that works for you. For me, it is mounted in a cabinet so I can use the knee lever, except for my portable 353 Genie, but it has a clamshell-style controller.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for the quick reply.. your UA-cam channel is fantastic, you get to the point, and fill in the gaps in peoples' knowledge regarding these lovely old machines.
The Singer instruction manuals show the Singer clam shell foot control for both of those models. Looking at photos online that is also the most common foot control with used machines.
Nice research, Randy. Thank you. I never even looked at that page of the manuals. I googled images of both models and do see so many clamshell style, along with others so I have no idea really how they got that pedal other than the particular Singer Store used what they had or what the customer preferred. I'm sure some were replaced by owners too. You have a logical mind and I know you have done plenty of research, so thanks very much for sharing.
You do Great Work with your Restorations! When you can, the SINGER 248. It kind of Reminds you of Stella, but older. It's Green & White "LILLIAN" ThankU 😁
Great video! I am looking for a strong straight stitch machine and am comparing the Singer 227 and the Singer 239. Thanks to your video I am going to select the Singer 239. Which do you think is the simpler, stronger, machine the 227 or the 239? Thank you.
Are you in the US? I don't have records or manuals for Model 227, which may have been made in Australia I've never seen one in person, only just now on Google Images. So, I can't advise you on that. If you see all my videos on the 237/239 you get a very good idea of the build mechanics and maybe you can compare that info to the 227 if you have access to one. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html You can go here for a FREE copy of the 239 parts diagram > parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/239.pdf Here is a FREE copy of the instruction Manual > www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20239%20Fashion%20Mate%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf Good Luck, and thanks for watching Andy Tube.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi, thanks for the reply. Check your gmail account, I sent you a screen picture of the machine. Thanks so much for the advice and manuals. I enjoy being a subscriber to your channel very much. Sincerely, Mark in Colorado.
Thank you, Linda. Reading your comment and Randy C. I see a variety of the foot controllers when searching google images. As Randy writes, the original instruction manual has a clamshell style controller in it, and many of the images do also. Some have the button style and some have the style your machine & Stella use. I know the button style & clamshell can fit the bracket in the vintage cabinets that hold the controller for use with a knee lever. I don't think Stella's foot pedal could be used in any of my cabinets, but only on the floor. Thank you very much for sharing, and for watching my videos.
Is it possible that the difference in the interior of the nose cover for the 239 is because Stella needed the clearance for the vibrating bracket and Cara didn't?
Absolutely! When I was washing Cara the next day I figured it out. That vibrating bracket is the reason. I tried switching the covers and Stella's fit OK on Cara, but Cara's nose cover would not sit properly on Stella's nose. Nothing gets by you, Terry. Nice catch! Thanks for mentioning it on the video.
Nice find. Arm Cover Screw Part No. 352180 The only place I know to find them is places like eBay from a seller who is selling the parts off of a machine. The size and thread count of the screw is not shown in the Parts Diagram, only the part number. Many Singer screws were made in proprietary sizes (not standard) although in some late models, they did use standard. I suppose you could take the machine to a hardware store and try to fit a screw to it, but do not be surprised if the threads do not fit. Some people use a tap & die set to make a standard threaded hole a little larger than the original and then use a standard screw. I'm joking, but it may be easier to look back in the bottom of the dumpster for the original ones. Sorry, but good luck.
Thank you so much for this video. I have just got a Cara that is completely seized but will spend time trying to get her back to working order. Can I please ask....I cannot find her age (B882654) singer db says 1905! I find that hard to believe...I thought 60/70's. Do you know?
Singer made the 239 in Monza, Italy from 1968 to 1972. The Serial Number should be stamped into the iron body on the underside. That factory in Monza used serial numbers starting with MA and thru MY. If the guy stamping the machine was hungover maybe he missed the starting M? So MB882654? Too bad the machines can't talk, right? I have a 20+ video Playlist for model 237 (Stella) you can find here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html The 1st video has some history of Monza and the Singer Factory there. Of course, your 239 is straight stitch only, but the other parts systems and motor, etc. are the same on both models, so you may find something of interest in the playlist if you plan on cleaning, adjusting, removing/replacing, and so forth. I found these two models to be fascinating and unique from other Singer Models and I guess that is the Italian flair for design. I think a model 239 could last forever with normal care and oiling. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for the reply! I giggled at that drunk bit! That makes perfect sense. I've had one or two much older models and enjoyed getting them going but this one is rusty inside and seized but I won't give up. Watching your tutorials have been life savers.
@@annabelcowey293 The seizing is often dried up varnished oil in the bushings & bearings. Penetrating oil or a degreaser like Krud Kutter can help fix that. Rust is quite different but can be removed too. I like The Must for Rust by Rustoleum. Here are some videos about using it: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy.html To see a rusty machine before I restored it take a look at that first video: ua-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/v-deo.html I know you will get it working again, Annabel. Good luck, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 would you believe I have just done it .....a couple of days of machine oil and cleaning some screws ...I'm a happy bunny. Thanks a lot!
I was wondering if you could tell me how I find/order the little screw (part) that wears out on the 503? I just purchased one and wanted to ensure that I could get ahold of this part. Thanks so much for your excellent videos!!
You can download the parts list for model 503A here: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/5_59999/503A.pdf If you can give me the part number I can advise you better. In general, you have to find a seller who is parting out a machine, like on eBay or Amazon, and buy the vintage part. Some replacement parts may be available new from outlets like www.sewingpartsonline.com/. Many times you can google the part No. to find it, like "Singer part number 123457".
You can certainly replace it, either with a vintage clamshell or gas pedal style or better, and easier, replace it with a new electronic pedal that has better control and never gets hot, or even warm. I've used a couple dozen of these over the years: www.amazon.com/Generic-Sewing-Machine-Electronic-Control/dp/B008MM5WG0 I like them b/c I can keep the existing cords and just switch out the pedal. Here are a couple popular videos about pedal replacement. ua-cam.com/video/yeNOLYQRL1w/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/NLP0C4rFeBY/v-deo.html You can replace all the wiring with the pedal too, but it is more involved. You can see how to access the wiring in this video starting at about 16:30 ua-cam.com/video/mVX2Io_tomk/v-deo.html Congrats on obtaining such a nice model, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@portgree Before COVID I could buy the electronic pedal for about $14, haha. It can be hard to find them without a cord attached already but shop around as the prices seem to be falling a little as people are going back to work and the demand for VSM is going back to normal. Good Luck.
Hello, I have been enjoying your videos. I have a 401A that I'm having a problem with. Right after the thread hooks it is slipping under the bobbin shuttle and causing a jam and thread breakage. Is this something you have had experienced and can you offer any help?
Did it sew normally before? Did it just suddenly start happening? Is this machine new to you? The last time I discovered this problem the owner was using a class 15 bobbin instead of a class 66 bobbin. I also had this years ago (model 500A) that the needle thread had been installed incorrectly.
I found this on a singer 252 drop in bobbin. The bobbin case can get too much lint and thread under it and it will lift the bobbin case too high and the top thread will wrap around the bobbin case instead of going over the bobbin. The thread will lock on the case and break the thread and bend the needle. The next downstroke the bent needle will hit the plate and break the needle. Also make sure you use good quality singer needles. The cheap ones will shred the thread and break the thread. Use a magnifying glass to check the needle tip. I hope this helps you. You must clean drop in bobbin case well to keep this from happening.
Recently, I got one 239 machine, but the former owner lost the pedal. I was wondering if you can tell me where can find the original foot control pedal of 239. Or is it possible get the new model motor set to replace the original motor and pedal set?
Those instructions can be found on page nine (9) of the instruction manual which can be seen and downloaded for FREE at this link to Singer: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20239%20Fashion%20Mate%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
Thank you for posting this, I have been looking at getting a simple sewing machine for some crafts (this will also be my first attempt at using a sewing machine) and another youtuber had recommended the 237, after watching your video I searched on facebook marketplace and found a 239 for $35... just took it home, looks like its complete and working. Any suggestions for cleaning and oiling prior to first use?
It was a good recommendation and you got it for a great price. 👀 Congratulations. With normal care, it will out last you. Here are my other 20 videos for model 237. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html The machines have the same parts except for the ZIgZag system on the 237. One of the videos is about cleaning the machine: ua-cam.com/video/Z2DPIbR2lKw/v-deo.html Another is for lubrication ua-cam.com/video/rqXbbbEX78k/v-deo.html There are others for the motor, light, belts, parts removal, replacement and adjusting, and so forth. I also recommend people download a copy of the Instruction Manual for their model. The one for the 239 is 36 pages about using it and regular maintenance. It's free from Singer at this safe link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=239 It downloads as a PDF copy of the Original. Welcome to my Channel, and happy sewing ahead for you. ✨
Andy Tube the hand wheel tensioner doesn’t seem to apply enough pressure to the hand wheel... the hand wheel just spins a lot, it will grab occasionally and sew a bit...
@@lincoln3x7 I think the clamp washer between the stop motion screw (chrome knob) and the handwheel is installed wrong. Look starting 4:00 of this video for knob/clamp removal and 13:00 for the proper installation procedure ua-cam.com/video/8TaqyrVbih4/v-deo.html If that does not fix the problem let me know. Good Luck.
Interesting comparison between a Zig Zag sewing machine and a straight sewing machine.
Thank you for watching, Elder.
Hi Andy. At 45.04, you show the button for the foot controller pedal being operated by the foot. I have seen before elsewhere that you rest your HEEL on the elevated step, and turn your ankle to operate the button and the machine. I guess it might make more sense, ergonomics of resting your foot on length of pedal also, with a little twist of the ankle to actuate the sewing machine.
There are many opinions about using the button-style pedal. It has been years, but when I asked a couple of retired Singer Repairmen about it they said the cord end should face away from you and the button should face you. The BALL of your foot/shoe (behind your last two toes) should rest on the "rest button" (the one that does not move) and when you want to sew you turn your ankle to press down on the "activation" button (that moves) with the other side of the ball of your foot/shoe (behind your big toe). The HEEL of your foot/shoe stays on the floor/ground. Here is a web page that shows this method: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/the-design-of-and-how-to-use-the-featherweight-foot-controller I have also seen this description in a Singer Instruction Manual and I just spent 40 minutes looking thru them to find it, but I could not find the manual.
Thanks for watching my channel, and I say use the pedal the way that works for you. For me, it is mounted in a cabinet so I can use the knee lever, except for my portable 353 Genie, but it has a clamshell-style controller.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for the quick reply.. your UA-cam channel is fantastic, you get to the point, and fill in the gaps in peoples' knowledge regarding these lovely old machines.
@@degsn37 It's kind of you to say so, thank you.
Tengo la Singer 237 ,se q tiene muchos años de fabricada y cose muy bien,cada día me gusta más.
Felicitaciones, Roxy. Es una máquina muy bonita con una hermosa puntada, como saben. Gracias por vernos.
The Singer instruction manuals show the Singer clam shell foot control for both of those models. Looking at photos online that is also the most common foot control with used machines.
Nice research, Randy. Thank you. I never even looked at that page of the manuals. I googled images of both models and do see so many clamshell style, along with others so I have no idea really how they got that pedal other than the particular Singer Store used what they had or what the customer preferred. I'm sure some were replaced by owners too. You have a logical mind and I know you have done plenty of research, so thanks very much for sharing.
You do Great Work with your Restorations! When you can, the SINGER 248. It kind of Reminds you of Stella, but older. It's Green & White "LILLIAN" ThankU 😁
OK, I'll add it to the list of requested machines. No. 12. Thanks for watching my channel.
Great video! I am looking for a strong straight stitch machine and am comparing the Singer 227 and the Singer 239. Thanks to your video I am going to select the Singer 239. Which do you think is the simpler, stronger, machine the 227 or the 239? Thank you.
Are you in the US? I don't have records or manuals for Model 227, which may have been made in Australia I've never seen one in person, only just now on Google Images. So, I can't advise you on that. If you see all my videos on the 237/239 you get a very good idea of the build mechanics and maybe you can compare that info to the 227 if you have access to one. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html
You can go here for a FREE copy of the 239 parts diagram > parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/239.pdf
Here is a FREE copy of the instruction Manual > www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20239%20Fashion%20Mate%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
Good Luck, and thanks for watching Andy Tube.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi, thanks for the reply. Check your gmail account, I sent you a screen picture of the machine. Thanks so much for the advice and manuals. I enjoy being a subscriber to your channel very much. Sincerely, Mark in Colorado.
My 237 has the same foot pedal as Cara
Thank you, Linda. Reading your comment and Randy C. I see a variety of the foot controllers when searching google images. As Randy writes, the original instruction manual has a clamshell style controller in it, and many of the images do also. Some have the button style and some have the style your machine & Stella use. I know the button style & clamshell can fit the bracket in the vintage cabinets that hold the controller for use with a knee lever. I don't think Stella's foot pedal could be used in any of my cabinets, but only on the floor. Thank you very much for sharing, and for watching my videos.
Is it possible that the difference in the interior of the nose cover for the 239 is because Stella needed the clearance for the vibrating bracket and Cara didn't?
Absolutely! When I was washing Cara the next day I figured it out. That vibrating bracket is the reason. I tried switching the covers and Stella's fit OK on Cara, but Cara's nose cover would not sit properly on Stella's nose. Nothing gets by you, Terry. Nice catch! Thanks for mentioning it on the video.
Hi Andy. Found a 239 on a dumpster. I am looking for the screws for the top cover. Where should I find these screws??
Nice find. Arm Cover Screw Part No. 352180 The only place I know to find them is places like eBay from a seller who is selling the parts off of a machine. The size and thread count of the screw is not shown in the Parts Diagram, only the part number. Many Singer screws were made in proprietary sizes (not standard) although in some late models, they did use standard. I suppose you could take the machine to a hardware store and try to fit a screw to it, but do not be surprised if the threads do not fit. Some people use a tap & die set to make a standard threaded hole a little larger than the original and then use a standard screw.
I'm joking, but it may be easier to look back in the bottom of the dumpster for the original ones. Sorry, but good luck.
Thank you so much for this video. I have just got a Cara that is completely seized but will spend time trying to get her back to working order. Can I please ask....I cannot find her age (B882654) singer db says 1905! I find that hard to believe...I thought 60/70's. Do you know?
Singer made the 239 in Monza, Italy from 1968 to 1972. The Serial Number should be stamped into the iron body on the underside. That factory in Monza used serial numbers starting with MA and thru MY. If the guy stamping the machine was hungover maybe he missed the starting M? So MB882654? Too bad the machines can't talk, right? I have a 20+ video Playlist for model 237 (Stella) you can find here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html The 1st video has some history of Monza and the Singer Factory there. Of course, your 239 is straight stitch only, but the other parts systems and motor, etc. are the same on both models, so you may find something of interest in the playlist if you plan on cleaning, adjusting, removing/replacing, and so forth. I found these two models to be fascinating and unique from other Singer Models and I guess that is the Italian flair for design. I think a model 239 could last forever with normal care and oiling. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for the reply! I giggled at that drunk bit! That makes perfect sense. I've had one or two much older models and enjoyed getting them going but this one is rusty inside and seized but I won't give up. Watching your tutorials have been life savers.
@@annabelcowey293 The seizing is often dried up varnished oil in the bushings & bearings. Penetrating oil or a degreaser like Krud Kutter can help fix that. Rust is quite different but can be removed too. I like The Must for Rust by Rustoleum. Here are some videos about using it: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy.html
To see a rusty machine before I restored it take a look at that first video: ua-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/v-deo.html
I know you will get it working again, Annabel. Good luck, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 would you believe I have just done it .....a couple of days of machine oil and cleaning some screws ...I'm a happy bunny. Thanks a lot!
@@annabelcowey293 We all like happy bunnies. Congrats; I knew you'd get it done. Happy sewing.
My 237 is the other color one wiith a feed dog knob drop and it has the button controller.
I think that's the 237M version. Both are wonderful machines. Thanks for commenting.
I was wondering if you could tell me how I find/order the little screw (part) that wears out on the 503? I just purchased one and wanted to ensure that I could get ahold of this part. Thanks so much for your excellent videos!!
You can download the parts list for model 503A here: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/5_59999/503A.pdf
If you can give me the part number I can advise you better. In general, you have to find a seller who is parting out a machine, like on eBay or Amazon, and buy the vintage part. Some replacement parts may be available new from outlets like www.sewingpartsonline.com/. Many times you can google the part No. to find it, like "Singer part number 123457".
how many mm is the height of the foot from the plate supposed to be? Very useful video! Mike
237 & 239 are the same. Presser bar height is 7.366 to .7.62 mm
I just bought a 237 in a plastic case and it came with the annoying button pedal. I wish I could replace it!
You can certainly replace it, either with a vintage clamshell or gas pedal style or better, and easier, replace it with a new electronic pedal that has better control and never gets hot, or even warm. I've used a couple dozen of these over the years: www.amazon.com/Generic-Sewing-Machine-Electronic-Control/dp/B008MM5WG0 I like them b/c I can keep the existing cords and just switch out the pedal. Here are a couple popular videos about pedal replacement. ua-cam.com/video/yeNOLYQRL1w/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/NLP0C4rFeBY/v-deo.html You can replace all the wiring with the pedal too, but it is more involved. You can see how to access the wiring in this video starting at about 16:30 ua-cam.com/video/mVX2Io_tomk/v-deo.html
Congrats on obtaining such a nice model, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you! I didn't want to mess with the wiring since the cord isn't removable. I'll definitely look into it!
@@portgree Before COVID I could buy the electronic pedal for about $14, haha. It can be hard to find them without a cord attached already but shop around as the prices seem to be falling a little as people are going back to work and the demand for VSM is going back to normal. Good Luck.
Hello, I have been enjoying your videos. I have a 401A that I'm having a problem with. Right after the thread hooks it is slipping under the bobbin shuttle and causing a jam and thread breakage. Is this something you have had experienced and can you offer any help?
Did it sew normally before? Did it just suddenly start happening? Is this machine new to you? The last time I discovered this problem the owner was using a class 15 bobbin instead of a class 66 bobbin. I also had this years ago (model 500A) that the needle thread had been installed incorrectly.
I found this on a singer 252 drop in bobbin. The bobbin case can get too much lint and thread under it and it will lift the bobbin case too high and the top thread will wrap around the bobbin case instead of going over the bobbin. The thread will lock on the case and break the thread and bend the needle. The next downstroke the bent needle will hit the plate and break the needle. Also make sure you use good quality singer needles. The cheap ones will shred the thread and break the thread. Use a magnifying glass to check the needle tip. I hope this helps you. You must clean drop in bobbin case well to keep this from happening.
Recently, I got one 239 machine, but the former owner lost the pedal. I was wondering if you can tell me where can find the original foot control pedal of 239. Or is it possible get the new model motor set to replace the original motor and pedal set?
www.singeronline.com/mofoco.html www.singeronline.com/footcontrol11.html
@@andytubesewing1953 thx u very much. It’s very helpful to me.
Need to know how to thread 239 machine thanks
Those instructions can be found on page nine (9) of the instruction manual which can be seen and downloaded for FREE at this link to Singer:
www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20239%20Fashion%20Mate%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
Thank you for posting this, I have been looking at getting a simple sewing machine for some crafts (this will also be my first attempt at using a sewing machine) and another youtuber had recommended the 237, after watching your video I searched on facebook marketplace and found a 239 for $35... just took it home, looks like its complete and working. Any suggestions for cleaning and oiling prior to first use?
It was a good recommendation and you got it for a great price. 👀 Congratulations. With normal care, it will out last you. Here are my other 20 videos for model 237. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html
The machines have the same parts except for the ZIgZag system on the 237. One of the videos is about cleaning the machine:
ua-cam.com/video/Z2DPIbR2lKw/v-deo.html Another is for lubrication ua-cam.com/video/rqXbbbEX78k/v-deo.html There are others for the motor, light, belts, parts removal, replacement and adjusting, and so forth. I also recommend people download a copy of the Instruction Manual for their model. The one for the 239 is 36 pages about using it and regular maintenance. It's free from Singer at this safe link:
www.singer.com/search/support?title=239 It downloads as a PDF copy of the Original. Welcome to my Channel, and happy sewing ahead for you. ✨
@@andytubesewing1953 Awesome! I found your other videos and have been going through them. Great recourse... Cheers.
@@lincoln3x7 Happy sewing then and take care.
Andy Tube the hand wheel tensioner doesn’t seem to apply enough pressure to the hand wheel... the hand wheel just spins a lot, it will grab occasionally and sew a bit...
@@lincoln3x7 I think the clamp washer between the stop motion screw (chrome knob) and the handwheel is installed wrong. Look starting 4:00 of this video for knob/clamp removal and 13:00 for the proper installation procedure ua-cam.com/video/8TaqyrVbih4/v-deo.html If that does not fix the problem let me know. Good Luck.