Hey Marco, first of all you're awesome. Secondly, I found that if you don't immediately use the textured rolling pins after rolling the "dough" out, and wait a bit, it doesn't stick to the pin as much and doesn't pull everything as you roll it. Also, I've tried applying vaseline directly on the surface of the rolled out dough once, but it messed the texture up. I wouldn't recommend that. Just wanted to let anyone who reads this know. Because I can't be the only one who thought of that "smart" idea.
I tried this yesterday. Kind of. I used HobbyCraft flavor DAS directly on the bass and ...it was alarmingly more pleasant then the brown stuff. I think it needed a coat of scenic glue the next day because the clay is made of fibre, but, I have much nicer edges to the texture since I can tear it off and get a rough look at the end. "Top kek" as the kids say ❤
You really CAN ask him anything! Thank you for your responses on Instagram, Marco. I am an absolute fan of your work, vids and attitude! If you’re ever in Germany there’s a German beer waiting for you at a Greek table.
Hi Marco, as soon as I've started watching your video I was thinking "this s*it is gonna crack in no time lol"... then I saw the PVA tank and... B00M BABY!!! F00kin genius! Thanks for the hint! Continua così Marco sei er mejo!
Both Fimo and Sculpey are polymer clays, meaning that they need to be baked in an oven in order for them to cure. Das is an air drying clay, meaning it only needs to be left exposed to the air in order to cure. There's a huge difference between the two types of clay and you're going to be sorely disappointed if you try to use either Fimo or Sculpey without baking it.
@@aldantefax I don't know of anything exactly like Das, but there are a number of air drying clays. Personally, I just grabbed some regular old Crayola Air Drying Clay (not Model Master, which is a very different, spongy clay); it works out well enough for the few tasks I use it for, but I'm still looking out for better brands.
Another straightforward, practical, unexpected, priceless gem. Been persevering with Das for scenery elements for years because it's too cheap to ignore and I hate papier mache/modge podge with a passion. (it's like handling vomit) Had tried painting Das with PVA before painting to make it more durable but never thought of mixing it in. Now... I can get more enthusiastic about my terrain ideas and I really, really thank you for it (I'd had the textured rollers last Christmas but only been using them over epoxy putty). That's now three really great improvements to my technique armoury from listening to you, this one, then mixing milliput with isopropyl alcohol, and then dilute oil paint washes over acrylic paintwork and Q tips.
GENIUS. Das is perfect for rolling bases! Why didn't I think of that before!!! Much easier to use that milliput and without the epoxidized radicals that you have to protect yourself from.
That's a really big Bloodbowl team! At the start I saw the slotted bases and thought of blood bowl, but was like "need 60..." can't be.. but then I saw them all at the end
Mr. Price shops in Ireland sell DAS and PVA glue for a very cheap price. I happen to already have DAS, PVA glue, textured rolling pin and a rotary tool and was researching how best to utilise DAS for my bases. Enter Marco stage left. Cheers man.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a few of the rollers but didn't really like using them with milliput. Will have to try that DAS trick with the PVA. Thanks again.
😁😁😁 It's a great pleasure! Yep Milliput is a bit tricky with the rollers because it's super sticky and the soft consistency doesn't help either. I had some results using petroleum jelly on the roller but it's too much effort for (if everything goes well) the same result
Tried this today though with Sculpy instead. It would not mix together well and the sculpy would stay lumpy. It came together better during the rolling pin mash. It is still drying but I took out most of the pieces and it seems decent. I learned that I should do smaller batches to control everything better. I’ll update on the final product.
Interesting approach. I found that just using DAS air drying clay on its own worked fine with my rollers. A lot less messy I reckon. No cracking so far, even after painting them, and with GSW's own "cutters" (being too lazy to DYI 25/28/32/40/50/60 mm sizes) the shrinkage when drying is pretty much on point, not much "overhang" (and certainly no problems with not covering the entire base). I do glue them to the base with PVA while they're still not dried, though. The only problem so far is the usual with painted bases - glued model coming off from the base if sideways force is applied, taking paint with it. Especially with Adepta Sororitas because of their small feet surface area. I was thinking if I pin the feet - like it seems you've been doing - that'd make it less likely to happen.
If i was to ask you something it would be... can you make 2 videos a week? or 1 per day? hahahaha! Love your channel and videos, everything crystal clear! Thanks a lot
Not bad. Maybe once they are on the base hit it with some filler around the join and a light sanding with some fine sandpaper before painting over it. I'm going to give it a go and see how it looks.
Thanks😊! Yeah it's an option if you want to make really disappear the borders but in general I like a bit of roughness around the borders to show a dit the thickness and texture of the floor 😉
I've always used epoxy putty but never thought about adding PVA glue to DAS. I use a epoxy putty called "All-Fix" it's sold as a generic multi-use putty and comes in large quart tubs. Generally speaking it goes bad before I use it all, but it's far cheaper than any of the hobby epoxy putties.
Oh yeah I think it's the epoxy used by plumbers! I find Milliput a bit too sticky to work well with rolling pins with a very fine texture! Is All-Fix firmer?
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM All-fix is pretty firm with just a little tac to it, and cures like stone. I would have to say it's probably the least stick epoxy putty I've used. I've used it with rollers and the "tentacle maker" from GreenStuffWorld which is another great little tool.
Hi Marco italiano 😉 First nice video, and maybe you know "PLASTIROC" clay the brand is Giotto, italian product. I wanna do the same thing with this one. Will we see..
Cool, but I'd skip the pain of mixing the glue and messy kitchen and use Fimo/Sculpy. But nice work on the bases, I have the Necro style GSW roller myself.
Thanks😊! When you are a commission painter you need to consider carefully the cost of materials and all these bases cost me something like 3€ using DAS+Glue 😉
I have used this technique before but without the PVA added. You just saved me a bunch of failed bases, thank you :D Also, unrelated question, which box do those Skaven come from?
Oi Marco, consiglieresti di lavorare direttamente sulla basetta? Applicare il das/Brown stuff/milliput sulla basetta, passare il rolling pin e via? Scusa per la domanda in italiano :/
Hi Marco! Great video, thanks! One noob question: would it make sense to use that DAS-PVA mix to fill crevices and cracks in prints? Like an alternative to milliput if you want. I have lots of DAS readily available and no milli yet, so if that's doable it would be jackpot
I was wondering, is it very elastic or does it break at some point ? I would like to make some broken bits on my base and I wonder if I can break the clay once it's dry or if I have to cut it with a knife. Maybe adding less PVA glue ?
When I need only broken bits I don't add the pva glue. The extra elasticity is never a problem, but you can skip the step and save time if you need only little pieces
So, I've tried using a textured rolling pin with air drying clay and I ran into a problem; the clay grabs hold of the rolling pin and wants to come off the parchment paper and roll up as I go along. Other than wetting the rolling pin, did you do anything else to help avoid the clay sticking to your rolling pin?
Some clays can be very sticky especially with a bunch of glue inside. Wetting both the roller and the surface of the clay is usually enough. You can rub some vaseline/petroleum jelly on the roller (that's almost mandatory when working with Milliput go example), that solves any stickiness problem 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Gran cosa, bei modelli, li sto pittando pure io adesso. e ho appena comprato roll pin e altro ancora da GWS, ottimo che mi è capitato il tuo video tra molti, e tutti usate approcci differenti per fare ste basette. ma si vedono tanto i tagli laser delle texture del roll sulle basette?
@@Loidrial Grande tempismo! Con materiali come il Milliput o stucchi fatti per leggere i dettagli molto bene come la GreenStuff le linee sono abbastanza visibili (soprattutto se poi dipinte tipo a pennello asciutto). Il Das invece con la sua consistenza e la possibilità di poterlo lisciare con un po' d'acqua tiepida le fa sparire piuttosto bene
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM mhhh ottimo. proverò a prendere un blocco di das che tanto viene 3 euro su amazon e provare con quello. grazie mille per il consiglio, mi sarei trovato con delle basette zigrinate per nulla
Ciao bello! Il pacco è arrivato oggi ed è una meraviglia, ho fatto velocemente 2 basette di test una col milliput e l'altra col das come hai consigliato tu, oh, madonna. che meraviglia! Grazie ancora
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thank you very much :) but I need to mix it with pva i think, so it would be more sturdy. I am planning a big project to make fallout vaults for fallout wasteland warfare :)
Hi man, how are you? I may be wrong, but I think it was this one ;) www.greenstuffworld.com/en/modelling-textured-rolling-pins/220-rolling-pin-hobby-roller-runic.html
Hi Marco, I know this is an old video but I've just tried this method and I'm having some issues. How do you remove the excess das from the bases you cut out from the sheet of material? I'm asking you this because after I cut out the bases I couldn't just peel away the excess das because it got stuck to the parchment paper (even though I used some water before I laid the sheet down). Could it be because I added too much pva glue?
Great video :) one question. Do the rollers leave a thin lines in addition to the pattern they have? I saw some and they seem to have many lines which takes away the realism.
Thanks!!! Yeah they have a really fine pattern probably coming from 3d printing. If you use putties like greenstuff, really good when it comes to read and retain the details, you can see them on the base, but with air drying clays and a bit of water you can easily make them disappear 😉
I always put a pin in one of the feet! It's the only way to have a solid solution. You can see in the pictures at the end where I pinned a bunch a Skaven 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM i thought you glued! Gotta try using wire then. Bought some thin Steel wire for use while spraying. Gonna try fixing the modell to the base with it. You got any short vid on pinning models?
@@robinwesterlund5563Sadly glue alone is not enough to guarantee a safe long term bond with a gaming model, pinning is always the right answer in these cases! I can definitely make a video on this 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM looking forward to it! Any tip on different kind of adding models to bases is greatly apreciated. I was considering using magnets (strong spheric on base and flat on mini) so i can switch between a scenic base and gaming base. Any thoughts on that? With spheric i ment such you can use as refrigriator magnets. They are very strong and should last a long time.
@@robinwesterlund5563 It's an interesting idea! I tried spherical/ball magnets for little conversion but in general I prefer the cylindrical ones: you get always more surface of contact than a sphere, even when they are really really small
Grazie!!! uh ci sono davvero tantissime opzioni; quasi in ogni città c'é un negozio dove trovare miniature o online la scelta é infinita! Per Warhammer la base di partenza é sempre www.games-workshop.com 😉
Nice video^^ Did you have troubles with the reducing size of DAS once dried? you prevented the cracks, but I'm curious about the wet problem. Do you have a ratio about DAS/PVA? Didn't you have problema with the stickiness of DAS when creating the rounds with your MacGyver round cutter? Anyway MacGyver Always inspires^^
Thanks!!!😊😊😊 I have just a little bit of shrinking and that's another reason why I cut the toppers a bit larger than the final base. I usually understand the quote of PVA to add from the consistency (since every brand of pva has its own dilution) but if I have to name a ratio I would say 1:4/1:6 PVA/DAS. I have same trouble flatting the dough because of the stickiness but no problems at all in the cutting phase; the cutter is sharp, the surface is really small and the time of contact is really quick so the stickiness doesn't affect the process 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks, I usually prefer the greenstuff about bases , but I'm going to realize some pavement for Building&co and I&m going to use DAS as a main cause I wanted to save a bit of Money. I had some experience in the lady about the DAS for similar usages but not had a quite good feedback, so your trovo about PVA combined to DAS saved me quite a lot of experiments.
Hi! No no it's definitely too much, I pay it less than half of this price in the retail shop; any hardware store pva is fine, especially if highly concentrated (the kind for wall priming and heavy duty works)
@@juanjesusramirezgijon7249 A concentrated formulation is better because more versatile; you can use it pure for and extreme binding power and quick drying time or diluted in every possible way!
Hey Marco, first of all you're awesome. Secondly, I found that if you don't immediately use the textured rolling pins after rolling the "dough" out, and wait a bit, it doesn't stick to the pin as much and doesn't pull everything as you roll it. Also, I've tried applying vaseline directly on the surface of the rolled out dough once, but it messed the texture up. I wouldn't recommend that. Just wanted to let anyone who reads this know. Because I can't be the only one who thought of that "smart" idea.
The “Ghost” pottery scene reference was the best - lol for sure. Good technique will need to give it a try, albeit on a much smaller scale
😁😁😁 Thanks!!! Keep me updated on the experiment!
i absolutely agree! spat my drink out laughing at that point!
@@ducky7759 😂😂😂😂😂
Who'd have guessed that a video about making textured bases could be so funny. Thanks for another amusing and informative production.
😁😁😁 Thanks buddy 😉!!!
the ghost bit was perfect
What a lovely pepperoni recipe! Thank you Marco!
😂😂😂 It's a pleasure!
I tried this yesterday. Kind of. I used HobbyCraft flavor DAS directly on the bass and ...it was alarmingly more pleasant then the brown stuff. I think it needed a coat of scenic glue the next day because the clay is made of fibre, but, I have much nicer edges to the texture since I can tear it off and get a rough look at the end. "Top kek" as the kids say ❤
You really CAN ask him anything! Thank you for your responses on Instagram, Marco. I am an absolute fan of your work, vids and attitude! If you’re ever in Germany there’s a German beer waiting for you at a Greek table.
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍 It's a pleasure!!! Thanks a million 🙏 And sooner or later I'll definitely come for that beer 😁😁😁😉
Very helpful! I especially appreciate the health and safety pointers, like the vacuum cleaner to help deal with dust.
Love those Macgyver solutions - I'm definitely going to try out the DAS +PVA mixture - thanks for the tip!
Hi Marco, as soon as I've started watching your video I was thinking "this s*it is gonna crack in no time lol"... then I saw the PVA tank and... B00M BABY!!! F00kin genius! Thanks for the hint!
Continua così Marco sei er mejo!
😂😂😂😉😉😉
I’ve been doing this very thing since July! Nice to see someone famous do it!
In the US, Sculpey or Fimo are the general usage modeling clays that cure similar to DAS. Thanks for this great video!
Both Fimo and Sculpey are polymer clays, meaning that they need to be baked in an oven in order for them to cure. Das is an air drying clay, meaning it only needs to be left exposed to the air in order to cure. There's a huge difference between the two types of clay and you're going to be sorely disappointed if you try to use either Fimo or Sculpey without baking it.
@@TheRunesmythe I stand corrected! Are there US brand clays that are air drying similar to DAS, then?
@@aldantefax I don't know of anything exactly like Das, but there are a number of air drying clays. Personally, I just grabbed some regular old Crayola Air Drying Clay (not Model Master, which is a very different, spongy clay); it works out well enough for the few tasks I use it for, but I'm still looking out for better brands.
@@aldantefax You can get DAS at Michael's or Hobby Lobby.
Another straightforward, practical, unexpected, priceless gem.
Been persevering with Das for scenery elements for years because it's too cheap to ignore and I hate papier mache/modge podge with a passion. (it's like handling vomit) Had tried painting Das with PVA before painting to make it more durable but never thought of mixing it in. Now... I can get more enthusiastic about my terrain ideas and I really, really thank you for it
(I'd had the textured rollers last Christmas but only been using them over epoxy putty).
That's now three really great improvements to my technique armoury from listening to you, this one, then mixing milliput with isopropyl alcohol, and then dilute oil paint washes over acrylic paintwork and Q tips.
GENIUS. Das is perfect for rolling bases! Why didn't I think of that before!!! Much easier to use that milliput and without the epoxidized radicals that you have to protect yourself from.
That's a really big Bloodbowl team! At the start I saw the slotted bases and thought of blood bowl, but was like "need 60..." can't be.. but then I saw them all at the end
😂😂😂 they were used as basic troops for a huge Eshin army! The style it's perfect for a very reasonable price
You are doing a fantastic job! I really like your videos, I usually don't watch hobby videos because I find them boring, not yours! Thanks mate!
It's really a huge compliment!!! Thanks a million 😁😁😁
Mr. Price shops in Ireland sell DAS and PVA glue for a very cheap price. I happen to already have DAS, PVA glue, textured rolling pin and a rotary tool and was researching how best to utilise DAS for my bases. Enter Marco stage left. Cheers man.
😁 This particular block or DAS came from Mr. Price, Sligo!!! 😁
Thanks, Marco. This is a great video for me as I'm about to make 100 bases like this.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a few of the rollers but didn't really like using them with milliput. Will have to try that DAS trick with the PVA. Thanks again.
😁😁😁 It's a great pleasure! Yep Milliput is a bit tricky with the rollers because it's super sticky and the soft consistency doesn't help either. I had some results using petroleum jelly on the roller but it's too much effort for (if everything goes well) the same result
Great job, yet again. Love that you and your girlfriend share a wacky sense of humour, keep up the great work!
😁😁😁 Thanks 😉
Tried this today though with Sculpy instead. It would not mix together well and the sculpy would stay lumpy. It came together better during the rolling pin mash. It is still drying but I took out most of the pieces and it seems decent. I learned that I should do smaller batches to control everything better. I’ll update on the final product.
FYI, it sands really easy. I did some then sanded them to thin down the topper abit. Liked it allot.
Thank you to make me discovered this product!!!
Interesting approach. I found that just using DAS air drying clay on its own worked fine with my rollers. A lot less messy I reckon. No cracking so far, even after painting them, and with GSW's own "cutters" (being too lazy to DYI 25/28/32/40/50/60 mm sizes) the shrinkage when drying is pretty much on point, not much "overhang" (and certainly no problems with not covering the entire base). I do glue them to the base with PVA while they're still not dried, though.
The only problem so far is the usual with painted bases - glued model coming off from the base if sideways force is applied, taking paint with it. Especially with Adepta Sororitas because of their small feet surface area. I was thinking if I pin the feet - like it seems you've been doing - that'd make it less likely to happen.
Just so you know Marco,
Green stuffing world does a nice selection of cutters now too, for all base types and sizes!!!!
Oh yeah I discovered them recently and I love them, especially the oval ones that are much more difficult to create from scratch!
MarcoFrisoniNJM I’m tempted to order some even though I might not even use them!!
Thanks for that video!
It's a pleasure!!! 😊😊😊
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM just checked out your instagram. You will be a great source of inspiration for someone like me that is a beginner in the hobby.
@@52Miniatures 😀Thanks! I'm on yours right now and you are much more than a beginner!!! You have a great hand and a great sense of the colours!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM "taking a deep bow" Thank you!
That's a lot of rollers! Could do curls in your hair with that many. I've only got one. :(
If i was to ask you something it would be... can you make 2 videos a week? or 1 per day? hahahaha! Love your channel and videos, everything crystal clear! Thanks a lot
😂😍 Thanks for the awesome compliment!!! It will be possible as soon as I evolve in something that doesn't sleep (and I'm almost there 😂)
Not bad. Maybe once they are on the base hit it with some filler around the join and a light sanding with some fine sandpaper before painting over it. I'm going to give it a go and see how it looks.
Thanks😊! Yeah it's an option if you want to make really disappear the borders but in general I like a bit of roughness around the borders to show a dit the thickness and texture of the floor 😉
Awesome vid! Loved all the mac guyver ideas, very entertaining!
😊🙏😊 Thanks buddy!!!
I've always used epoxy putty but never thought about adding PVA glue to DAS. I use a epoxy putty called "All-Fix" it's sold as a generic multi-use putty and comes in large quart tubs. Generally speaking it goes bad before I use it all, but it's far cheaper than any of the hobby epoxy putties.
Oh yeah I think it's the epoxy used by plumbers! I find Milliput a bit too sticky to work well with rolling pins with a very fine texture! Is All-Fix firmer?
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM All-fix is pretty firm with just a little tac to it, and cures like stone. I would have to say it's probably the least stick epoxy putty I've used. I've used it with rollers and the "tentacle maker" from GreenStuffWorld which is another great little tool.
@@slimjim7411 Really cool, I definitely have to give it a try!
Try 1 part plasticine modeling clay to 1part milliput. Dries hard but easy to work with for several hours.
What I expected: "HELLOOO GUUUYS!"
What I got: "Hi guys."
Hahaha old simpler times 😂
I used Sculpy and had some shrinkage, just re-watched the video and totally forgot to add PVA GLUE! I will try that next.
You make great informative and funny videos, keep it up mate!! Grazie mille!
Thanks a million 😘!!! É davvero un piacere 😉
That red sticky bloody thing was disturbing ! :D
Flatten between two plastic sheets. Works better than the oven paper.
You are the best Marco! So creative and such useful information. Do you have a background in art before getting into miniatures?
ottimo video, i risultati finali sembrano davvero buoni! Sarebbe possibile mostrare tutti gli oggetti e i materiali necessari all'inizio del video?
Italiano perfetto😉!!! Sure, it's a really good idea to keep everything super clear and easier to follow
Hi Marco italiano 😉
First nice video, and maybe you know "PLASTIROC" clay the brand is Giotto, italian product. I wanna do the same thing with this one. Will we see..
Kitchen? Fine - I love it. BUT; are we going to hear about the dinosaurs?
😂😂😂😂😂 I turned the two plastic dinosaurs into vases opening the top of their back: now they sits in front of a window as vegetal/reptilian hybrids 😂
Grazie, un ottimo video e una bella tecnica
😁😁😁 Grazie a te! E buone feste 😊
???? I literally bought a roller to do my bases about 10 min ago and wondered how to use it when it arrives.... get out of my head you witch!
😂😂😂😂😂 it was destiny!!!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM nope it's a quote from Dune the movie.
@@pentuprager6225 That's a bonus!
Marco sees all....... lol
informative and entertaining loe your clips
Thanks!!! 😘
Come sempre spettacolare!
Legend as always :-)
thats some good looking peperoni
Cool, but I'd skip the pain of mixing the glue and messy kitchen and use Fimo/Sculpy. But nice work on the bases, I have the Necro style GSW roller myself.
Thanks😊! When you are a commission painter you need to consider carefully the cost of materials and all these bases cost me something like 3€ using DAS+Glue 😉
Mmmm PVA Ill give it a try
Hey, is it possible to use normal clay from pottery crafting ?
This was exactly what I was looking for! How much PVA glue do you use when you mix?
I usually judge the quantity of PVA by the consistency/behaviour of DAS; when it starts to be tacky and sticky that's the right quantity!
I have used this technique before but without the PVA added. You just saved me a bunch of failed bases, thank you :D
Also, unrelated question, which box do those Skaven come from?
😍 they are the Skaven BloodBowl team!
were in ireland are you living. will be using das n future thanks
Awesome 😊 I live in Dublin!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM do you play in Gamersworld? 🤔
@@SergeantShamrock I was there the last Monday playing Warcry 😁 Are you also based in Dublin?
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I was playing aeronautica that night! 🤣 What are the chances
@@SergeantShamrock 😅😁😅😅 Awesome!!! I'll be there next Monday also for sure!
I enjoyed this and your accent, I have no idea where you are from though!
😂😂😂 Thanks!!! I'm Italian but I live in Ireland so... a strange mix 😅
Oi Marco, consiglieresti di lavorare direttamente sulla basetta? Applicare il das/Brown stuff/milliput sulla basetta, passare il rolling pin e via? Scusa per la domanda in italiano :/
Hi Marco! Great video, thanks! One noob question: would it make sense to use that DAS-PVA mix to fill crevices and cracks in prints? Like an alternative to milliput if you want. I have lots of DAS readily available and no milli yet, so if that's doable it would be jackpot
I was wondering, is it very elastic or does it break at some point ? I would like to make some broken bits on my base and I wonder if I can break the clay once it's dry or if I have to cut it with a knife. Maybe adding less PVA glue ?
When I need only broken bits I don't add the pva glue. The extra elasticity is never a problem, but you can skip the step and save time if you need only little pieces
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thank you very much, I'll try without the glue
Fantastic!!!
which style of rolling pin did you use for these bases? awesome video!
Thanks!!! I check the name 😉
It's "Runic"!
I've only seen this video now, and I know that you are a 3D printer converted now. With the 3D printing available would you do bases this way now?
So, I've tried using a textured rolling pin with air drying clay and I ran into a problem; the clay grabs hold of the rolling pin and wants to come off the parchment paper and roll up as I go along. Other than wetting the rolling pin, did you do anything else to help avoid the clay sticking to your rolling pin?
Some clays can be very sticky especially with a bunch of glue inside. Wetting both the roller and the surface of the clay is usually enough.
You can rub some vaseline/petroleum jelly on the roller (that's almost mandatory when working with Milliput go example), that solves any stickiness problem 😉
madonna pare che stai impastando un cuore. bel risultato alla fine.
60 skaven di blood bowl che ce dovevi fare?!
Hahaha ho pensato la stessa cosa!!! Li ho usati come orda di Gutter Runners per un'armata di Skaven Eshin 😁
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Gran cosa, bei modelli, li sto pittando pure io adesso. e ho appena comprato roll pin e altro ancora da GWS, ottimo che mi è capitato il tuo video tra molti, e tutti usate approcci differenti per fare ste basette.
ma si vedono tanto i tagli laser delle texture del roll sulle basette?
@@Loidrial Grande tempismo! Con materiali come il Milliput o stucchi fatti per leggere i dettagli molto bene come la GreenStuff le linee sono abbastanza visibili (soprattutto se poi dipinte tipo a pennello asciutto).
Il Das invece con la sua consistenza e la possibilità di poterlo lisciare con un po' d'acqua tiepida le fa sparire piuttosto bene
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM mhhh ottimo. proverò a prendere un blocco di das che tanto viene 3 euro su amazon e provare con quello. grazie mille per il consiglio, mi sarei trovato con delle basette zigrinate per nulla
Ciao bello! Il pacco è arrivato oggi ed è una meraviglia, ho fatto velocemente 2 basette di test una col milliput e l'altra col das come hai consigliato tu, oh, madonna. che meraviglia! Grazie ancora
Hi. Have you tried drying larger sheets than just round bases? I am concerd about warping while drying. :)
Check this video 😉 ua-cam.com/video/sRZveO0Le3U/v-deo.html
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thank you very much :) but I need to mix it with pva i think, so it would be more sturdy. I am planning a big project to make fallout vaults for fallout wasteland warfare :)
Hello Marco, it's Mateusz here! Can you tell me which rolling pin from gsw did you use? I can't find it on their website ;(
Hi man, how are you? I may be wrong, but I think it was this one ;) www.greenstuffworld.com/en/modelling-textured-rolling-pins/220-rolling-pin-hobby-roller-runic.html
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I think that's it. Thank you so much for response and quick answer! Have a great day!
Hi Marco, I know this is an old video but I've just tried this method and I'm having some issues. How do you remove the excess das from the bases you cut out from the sheet of material? I'm asking you this because after I cut out the bases I couldn't just peel away the excess das because it got stuck to the parchment paper (even though I used some water before I laid the sheet down). Could it be because I added too much pva glue?
Do they shrink a bit after being fully dry?
A bit, that's why I make them a little bigger (with the size of the lower part of the base).
The shrinking is much smaller when you add PVA glue!
Das it!
🤣🤣🤣
Great video :) one question. Do the rollers leave a thin lines in addition to the pattern they have? I saw some and they seem to have many lines which takes away the realism.
Thanks!!! Yeah they have a really fine pattern probably coming from 3d printing. If you use putties like greenstuff, really good when it comes to read and retain the details, you can see them on the base, but with air drying clays and a bit of water you can easily make them disappear 😉
MarcoFrisoniNJM fantastic tip thank you I will try that out. Already been telling my mates about your new channel. Keep up the great work !
@@mobiuscolors7459it's a pleasure 😊and thanks a million for sharing 😍😍😍!!!
For those of us who are not mcguyver, any suggestions for a way to cut out the bases in the proper sizes?
Greenstuff world has some nice metal cutters with all the measurements for the standard bases!
How did you then attach the figure to the base? Did you just stick it on with Super glue or did you pin it to the base as well?
I always put a pin in one of the feet! It's the only way to have a solid solution. You can see in the pictures at the end where I pinned a bunch a Skaven 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM i thought you glued! Gotta try using wire then. Bought some thin Steel wire for use while spraying. Gonna try fixing the modell to the base with it. You got any short vid on pinning models?
@@robinwesterlund5563Sadly glue alone is not enough to guarantee a safe long term bond with a gaming model, pinning is always the right answer in these cases!
I can definitely make a video on this 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM looking forward to it! Any tip on different kind of adding models to bases is greatly apreciated. I was considering using magnets (strong spheric on base and flat on mini) so i can switch between a scenic base and gaming base. Any thoughts on that?
With spheric i ment such you can use as refrigriator magnets. They are very strong and should last a long time.
@@robinwesterlund5563 It's an interesting idea! I tried spherical/ball magnets for little conversion but in general I prefer the cylindrical ones: you get always more surface of contact than a sphere, even when they are really really small
Sei grande! Per caso sai dove posso comprare miniature singole da dipingere? Anche warhammer fantasy battle, per esempio! Grazie
Grazie!!! uh ci sono davvero tantissime opzioni; quasi in ogni città c'é un negozio dove trovare miniature o online la scelta é infinita! Per Warhammer la base di partenza é sempre www.games-workshop.com 😉
Ok my only issue is to find something to cut that's roughly 1". Any suggestions?
lol and I thought I was a genius because I modeled bases in air clay
Nice video^^
Did you have troubles with the reducing size of DAS once dried? you prevented the cracks, but I'm curious about the wet problem.
Do you have a ratio about DAS/PVA?
Didn't you have problema with the stickiness of DAS when creating the rounds with your MacGyver round cutter?
Anyway MacGyver Always inspires^^
Thanks!!!😊😊😊
I have just a little bit of shrinking and that's another reason why I cut the toppers a bit larger than the final base.
I usually understand the quote of PVA to add from the consistency (since every brand of pva has its own dilution) but if I have to name a ratio I would say 1:4/1:6 PVA/DAS.
I have same trouble flatting the dough because of the stickiness but no problems at all in the cutting phase; the cutter is sharp, the surface is really small and the time of contact is really quick so the stickiness doesn't affect the process 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks, I usually prefer the greenstuff about bases , but I'm going to realize some pavement for Building&co and I&m going to use DAS as a main cause I wanted to save a bit of Money. I had some experience in the lady about the DAS for similar usages but not had a quite good feedback, so your trovo about PVA combined to DAS saved me quite a lot of experiments.
Marco, do you know another pva? Because I just find it on Amazon and it cost 14,52 Euros for a 1L bottle. Do u find it expensive??
Hi! No no it's definitely too much, I pay it less than half of this price in the retail shop; any hardware store pva is fine, especially if highly concentrated (the kind for wall priming and heavy duty works)
MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks a lot for answering and your good work Marco. I’ll look for another one then, it should be concéntrated, isnt it?
@@juanjesusramirezgijon7249 A concentrated formulation is better because more versatile; you can use it pure for and extreme binding power and quick drying time or diluted in every possible way!
hilarious!
😁😁😁
Que es el líquido blanco, es que no entiendo inglés, sorry
Don't worry 😊! It's simple PVA Glue ( I use a concentrated version for a fast drying)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM MUCHAS GRACIAS
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM White joiner's glue would be equal?
@@racsogil not really sure what is it but probably we are talking of the same product!
You live in Ireland? Coz you look kinda italian to me)
You can be born in one place than... You move to another one 😅 Sometimes it happens 😅
finalnd or itlay? where is that accent from? :P
😂😂😂 Italian mixed with a bit of Irish
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Oh I see, is just that marco could have been a finish name easily XD
@@jpf338 Is It a common name in Finland? I didn't know it!
Hot
🔥🔥🔥
If your girlfriend is irish, she probably doesn’t use the kitchen anyway 🤣
Hahahahaha no, she's Italian but you are soooo right about Irish and cooking that I'm still laughing 😂😂😂
those rolling pins are cool but soooo overpriced.