I don't know man. I had a set of cheap flimsy headers on a Chevy truck with a 350. I went through multiple header gaskets put a set of those tin silver ones on because that's all i had at that moment and boom no more problems. Lasted years till i sold the truck. If i remember correctly it was 2-1/2 - 3 years. I installed them with the fiber side against the headers with high temp silicone and let it set up for a day before installation. Results may vary i guess.
Headers...but it's two completely different things. Header tubes are flexible, and so they will move with the head as both parts expand and contract. Manifolds are not flexible, so as the parts expand and contract there is movement along their surfaces that will tear at the gasket surface. (think about how glaciers work on the landscape) That's why when there is a gasket between the head and manifold, it's flat metal and not a composite like these gaskets are.
@@UncleTonysGarage Love your channel, Tony, but I should mention that I have the silver gaskets he mentioned on my stock Ford with orig. manifolds and have had a good seal for years. BUT I'm not a hot rodder so my engine never gets high revs. I'm also not saying my results are typical. Loved your video...many good gasket tips.
the old timey solution was to soak your exhaust gaskets overnight and install 'em soaking wet. like a leather gun holster, they'd conform to the surfaces. We also used to chapstick the bowl gaskets on Holley carbs since they had to be pulled regularly for jet changes. but you also had to get a longboard sander to make certain your surfaces were flat as a 10 yr old girl.
Always glue the gasket to the part that comes off, not the block or major component side! Much easier to scrape the gasket off the water pump on the bench then standing on your head trying to get it off the block….
I never glue a gasket use rtv on both sides almost no clean up and only a very then coat cause what you see on the outside is also on the i side and if it comes off you may have trouble been doing this for 50 years
I've greased many a carb gasket when I'm tuning jets and emulsion tubes, but I never knew about these tricks. I'm a machinist by trade, but a self taught mechanic who has gone as far as engine rebuilds. I learned from books, forums, and youtube videos like these. Thank you Tony for the knowledge
Hey that's how I learned how to rebuild my 5.3 from top to bottom 100000 miles later still purring like a champ ...from videos and books and machinists ! Cheers bud
I've rebuilt possibly a thousand, up to v16 engines, no manufactor says to put anything on your gasket, especially a head gasket. It would be in your best interest not to listen to ( mechanics ?) who deviant from what the manufactor says, I find it interesting that he is concerned about the removal of parts and saving gaskets. Do it right and removal won't be nesessary. Do it wrong and you will be doing it again, not the gaskets fault, your fault. And greasing gaskets it down right idiotic, yes they did that in 1920, but the gasket material then required it.
Yes, a head gasket is the same as a carb top cover or base gasket. Experiences the same forces, removed as frequently, constructed the same. I would pay you to not touch my engine seeing as you have no common sense @@Maurice-c6z
Look at the price of a roll of gasket material today. Outrageous. Back when we were kids we did not use new gaskets, no money for such things. We used gasket maker and the leaks were so bad we seldom worried about oil changes the oil was so diluted from top ups from all the leaks. Thin cardboard was used as gasket material for the coolant system. Worked more or less. Amazing what one can get by with when young dumb and broke.
In my younger, poorer, years. I've made carburetor base gaskets out of cereal boxes. Even water pump and gaskets. 3 or 4 stacked together. Sometimes, a thin smear of silicone was used between layers. But a lot of times not. Never had a failure.
@@chuckbelt6156 Here for the cereal box paper comments. I use that stuff all the time. I say cereal like bondo , there's many products with the same thickness. Ha he just mentioned some 3m yellow ,that stuff is amazing too. Anything from gluing bolts in sockets for tight spots but barely used for its intended purpose.
Uncle T, I actually talked to Cometic yesterday about their MLS head gaskets. They can be torqued during mock-up and then reused, as long as they aren't heat-cycled. They need to go on DRY. No sprays, etc on them.
I saw a guy's video where he soaked his carb gaskets in oil. They hold up longer & seal better he says. He has used the same one for years taking the carb on & off doing experiments on his engines. Makes sense to me. Great video Tony.
a lot of channels change over time; this feels like a similar informative video that the channel would've put out years ago. Nice to see someone not losing themselves to UA-cam algorithm appeasement, crazy commenters like myself, etc. ;)
I worked in a radial aircraft engine overhaul shop for a couple of years. We made most of our gaskets as replacements were not available. We did have some made for a couple of common engines. But for the most part we made our own. The method was to stick gasket material to one of the mating surfaces using spray contact cement. The cut out the bolt holes and passages using an Exacto knife. Then when assembling the components we would smear a light coat of Permatex Ultra Copper on the other surface. Ultra Copper does not harden and the components will come apart later without damaging the gasket. I think this would provide a better seal than using baby powder. I like your system as well.
On my old ‘64 F100 292, I adhered the valve cover gaskets to the cover, and used a thin slick of grease on the bottom side. You adjust the valves on those engines pretty regularly. Worked quite well. Those gaskets were cork though.
Yellow weather strip adhesive....otherwise known as "gorilla snot" for my entire life. LOL. Good stuff as always, Uncle Tony! Thanks, man, for staying cool!
Haha I love that stuff , anything and everything can be glued with it. Ive used it on a piece of gutter flashing to cover a rotted rubber body plug hole that fell out 😂😂
Thanks, Uncle Tony - I learned something. My dad was a big fan of "yellow muckinpucky", and I've used it for years but not the baby powder trick. I will from now on.
Used to constantly get Header gasket leaks, and blowouts, until I installed Stage 8 locking bolts. Been using the same gaskets for over 12 years now with several remove/installs. Tad pricey but so worth it!
Thanks for the tip. I wonder if they make bolts long enough to use with factory exhaust manifolds, which I have on my car. I'll check it out at Summit.
Back on the Arias hemi in our promod, we used Detroit Diesel "peanut butter" on one side of the blower manifold gaskets so it would seal but not stick. Most of the rest of it I used this silver RTV that came in a can, looked like anti seize but that stuff was awesome. Discovered that stuff working at Patterson Racing Engines back in the 90's. We used 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive for years on stuff having a car dealership. Edelbrock Gasgacinch is fantastic too.
Isn't that Detroit Diesel peanut butter stuff now a Cummins product too? Seems like someone relatively recently had it in a Cummins labeled can with part number. Maybe I was dreaming...on a beach with a drag strip...next to a 24hr speed shop like the old days
Finally get to see someone on UA-cam using the weather strip adhesive trick. I've been gluing my gaskets on for 30 years. It kills me when I see these UA-camrs smothering gaskets with silicone. Another trick for carb gaskets I like to use is chapstick. Less messy than grease or Vaseline and not quite as a dust magnet as well.
@@HawkeyeMobileAutoRepair I use Indian head on core plugs and any threaded plugs I know I'll never need to remove. Haven't used copper spray for anything.
Those metal composition exhaust gaskets - I’ve used those with iron heads & steel headers have had no problems with them. I usually put a thin film of orange hi temperature silicone specifically formulated for exhaust & let them vulcanize a few hours before install… Custom homemade headers are a different animal & in my experience, you play around with it until you find what works. Edit: okay, you’re talking about manifolds, not headers… my brain went straight to exhaust & I only run custom homemade headers, so I inserted my own… tangent.
Thanks Tony, I never put two and two together but yeah, that makes sense about the exhaust gaskets. I have the tick tick tick now on my SBC. I'm gonna experiment running without the gasket.
After applying the stickum to the assembly and applying the gasket to the stickum, pull the gasket off for a period to allow the gum to flash, then reapply the gasket, then gently assemble the assembly to the block and allow the stickum to cure. This allows the stickum to cure flat. I use Indian varnish with paper gaskets. Have you noticed that gasket sets always have a sheet of ‘paper’ that is perfect for making gaskets? Nice dense stuff? I am always impressed that the gasket companies, Victor-Reinz, for example, always include this sheet of material.
I learned all my old school tricks from working on in NASCAR we use that glue to glue the lug nuts to the wheels that are going on the car. That way you can just hit them with the gun, no fumble with them. After each race we use a small wire brush to clean out the seat so that they will glue to the wheels and they effortlessly stay on the studs because the first 1/2” doesn’t have threads. Also for headers we always use red high temp silicone. It lasts for a race no problem.
That must have been a few years ago now because the new model NASCAR uses that single nut lock ring to hold the wheel onto the hub which had been used on the Indy cars for years . I remember years ago seeing tires coming off or cars that had to pit because of loose lug nuts and always wondered why they didn't use the system like the Indy cars had & low and behold some years later they are actually using them now on the NASCAR stock cars now although at first they were having issues of them coming loose or the lock ring nut would crack & tires were coming off but it seems they finally got it figured out.
@@peteloomis8456so NASCAR is even further removed from local stock car racing. Lost interest a bit when my guy, Earnhardt died, really lost interest with COT and "Chase" series as now the pro version of stick car racing offers no way for skilled local drivers to move up like they did in the 50s-00s. NASCAR was massive in the 90s to about 2003 but I don't know anybody still watching now in the '20s
I love watching your videos Tony. I don't work on anything as old as you do, but I love to work on "vintage" re: 80s/90s motorcycles and cars. You share a lot of tidbits that they don't include in the modern instructions these days, and I appreciate learning new bits of knowledge that I can apply elsewhere. Also, do you like to anneal and reuse copper washers? I do that to save some pennies (not pennies anymore haha)
Back when my daily driver had solids (71 Z28) I used to seal the cork valve cover gaskets to the covers and always finger wipe the head side with a thin layer of oil off the open head.
Aviation gasket in a can is really handy for oil pumps. If your distributor is run off the same shaft as the oil pump use that stuff, it wipes off and brushes on. I suppose you could use it on several places on an engine.
Grease is a lot easier to deal with when you don't want a gasket to stick. Those exhaust gaskets are great. Never had one fail in 20 years. Manifolds, headers, iron heads, aluminum heads, doesn't matter. Will definitely continue using them.
I have used the 3M weatherstrip adhesive for decades on many different things, but never thought of it for reuse of gaskets, so that's a great tip. I am guessing it would be very tough to remove the glued side of the gasket though, because that glue really sticks hard.
Try red hi-tack. You can use it on one side and it stays, and soaks into the gasket, but if you want it off it never really hardens, solvent will thin and lift it easily. It also doesn't have a working time like this stuff, you should bolt weatherstrip adhesive before it fully cures (to prevent uneven thickness), but permatex red hi-tack can be applied to gaskets, pitted hose barbs, threads, etc, as long before assembly as you want.
Ty for yor constant logic... it is always simple physics. Because of true car guys like you, it still gives me hope for the world of part changers and code readers lol Cheers bud!!!!! Keep up the good content .
I did a Timing belt/water pump job on a Lexus GS300 not too long ago and the water pump gasket was very poor quality. I ended up making a gasket out of the roll. Worked beautifully.
I have those band aid exhaust gaskets on the 352 FE in my FoMoCo. It works. I've had it in place for a few years and it keeps the engine quiet. I can't stand exh. manifold leaks. I should mention, however, I'm NOT a hot rodder, just an old car guy...no headers and no intense use/abuse of my engine, which rarely if ever gets above 2600 rpm. That might be a reason why that gasket set works for me and I don't get blow outs. Your trick with the sealant and baby powder sounds great. Probably would've helped when I put a new water pump on last year. I tried using a "gasket dressing" from the auto parts store and it didn't really have enough tack to keep the gasket in place. One gasket that was tough for me to keep in place while installing was for the canister housing on the old school oil filter on my old Y-Block. That sealant/adhesive won't work in that application, but I learned from an older mechanic that using lithium grease will help keep it in place during installation.
We used milk cartons for gasket material in the '60's and 70's. Half gallon milk carton was tightly pressed cardboard with either a wax or plastic coating to make it waterproof. It was tough and waterproof and worked.
On my ls engine I have reused the head gaskets at least a dozen times with no issue even at 20lbs of boost. I also reuse the stretch head bolts (tty) I crank them to 65 ft lbs and send it. I love the ls platform.
Will be slamming an Iron Block LS1 (originally a LM7 Bored out, has icon forged flat top pistons) in my 07 Classic Bowtie (GMT800, not 900) It's a race engine but will just see truck duties, so just plenty of torque.
I have to admit, once we rebuilt my '66 425, it aint coming apart until required. I don't experiment, I don't change without need. I just enjoy the torque a fresh nailhead provides.
I will say that Remflex gaskets have worked great on my slant 6, especially sealing between the manifoit's and the irregularities in the intake and exhaust to the head, but I have seen many instances on other engines such as small and big block Mopars where no gaskets at all is the best way to go. Especially with stock Iron manifolds.
Tony is right again! This trick works great, done it for years. But I have used the exhaust gaskets for years by using two sets and putting the paper sides back to back. They hold up great on headers that way.
I had no idea about those exhaust manifold gaskets not being ideal. Nice tip on making gaskets reusable. Thanks again Unkle Tony! Your teachings will not go to waste. Aslo Love the comments and community your videos produce. You are an ace of a tech! The no bull type tech! I would follow your advice over a shop manual if you advised there was a discrepancy from your process. Thats trust!
I reused a MLS (Multi Layered Steel) gasket and it was fine. I did a cylinder head rebuild, and made the mistake of partially pre-filling my hydraulic lifters. Trashed a couple of valves. The gasket was new when I did this, ran just a few hours. So I replaced those valves, but didn't have time to wait for a new gasket. So, I just sprayed the gasket with WD40 between the layers, and wiped the surfaces with carb cleaner. Worked a charm. High compression 11.7:1. I did use a thin film of Vaseline both sides when installing, which helped removal. I personally would never use glue or any kind of sealant. There are some people who finely machine both surfaces so no gasket is used. If I was racing, I'd make some copper gaskets, a whole bunch of them on a machine.
I would love to see more videos on gaskets. There is soo many different ways people use silicone or not on gaskets. Oil pan, timing cover, waterpump and intake. The most common parts that get redone and everyone has different methods to how they install the gaskets. Silicone on one side or both? Or none. Thanks, great video like always!
I’m about to get into my first head gasket job..and then some. The timing belt broke on my ladies 02 dodge neon.. I’ve always been scared to mess with cams, timing and valves😬. I guess I need to just jump into the deep end😅. It’s something I’ve always wanted to learn so I guess no time like the present.
Make sure the #1 piston is not at the top when you reinstall the head. It has to be close, but not in its timing mark. This is to avoid bending the valves. Align the cams and then the crank. Good luck.
Good Ol'Fashion Gorilla Snot :) Love It !! I used to use corn starch instead . Old School tricks these kids got no idea of now a days . One thing also you might want too look at Tony is the fact if you place that silver side to the motor side it works better and as well you wont usually have to change that gasket out and also seems to last longer as well .
I've used some of the dry lube sprays on my carburetor base gaskets with very good results. I don't want them to stick on either side, as they are a pain to scrape off aluminum, and I don't want to risk bits getting into the manifold. I understand baby powder works well too. I've had good luck as well with the dead soft aluminum header gaskets too for holding up well and not leaking. I'm putting a 350 small block together now and have a set of the graphite header gaskets this time, so fingers crossed! PS, I painted the block with the Rustoleum oil- based paint and primer you recommended, mixing the red and yellow to get a Chevy Orange and it turned out very well. Thanks for that advice and video, it's a heavy smooth coating that I hope lasts a long time.
Thanks Tony that explains why I always was changing my header gaskets every season. I thought it was something I was doing. I sprayed copper spray no gasket and seems it worked much better thought it was weird but didn’t have the gasket one weekend and buddy handed me a can of copper spray. That film was so thin didn’t know how it could work but sure did now I know may not have even needed copper spray.
I went through 3 sets of header gaskets on my turbo v8 mustang project until I finally decided to try no gasket at all, and layer some copper RTV on the header flanges. Ever since that, I never had to revisit the issue again, even years later. Sometimes what seems like the "wrong way" is the one idea that works.
According to Fel-pro that shiny part is supposed to be for expansion and the fiber flat side is for the head side. Also with the right torque specs they should work well np still after 10 plus thousand they look brand new still. Most folks dont use a torque wrench and the head bolts get loose and burn the gasket maybe some lock washers might help haha. Copper sealer or something would be a good addition to the fibrous side on the head. Couple heat cycles check the bolts torque.
Over 50 years of building engines in my hot rod shop. I learned from my WW2 tank mechanic dad a light coat of oil on both sides and together it goes. It always comes apart easily and no scrapping off an old gasket when you need a new one.
Here is a question for you Uncle Tony. I am born in Italy, grew up in Queens NY. Somehow I am a Ford guy, yet now I own a 72 Corvette. You are clearly a Mopar guy. Why would I subscribe to this channel? I dont know, but Im glad I did.
Hey Uncle Tony! What would you use as a gasket for headers? 90% of the ones I’ve ever dealt with came with those exhaust leaking bastards, and you’re right. After a while, they’re junk.
On exhaust manifolds it work better than anything to seal it will even fill minor scratches mixed with light grease aplied like a thin paste. I wouldn't use it on the intake side of things because if the motor sucks it in you will never get it out again.. light grease like Vaseline works well or ChapStick lip gloss you can steal from your girlfriend's purse lol.
3m yellow at the shops I worked at we called it gorilla snot. The blue caliper grease was smurf jizz, antiseize was tin man in a bottle or neversneeze, pb blaster was panther piss, everything in the shop had a nick name In regards to the exhaust gaskets, a product called acoustiseal for a slightly pitted or warped surface works wonders
Cool trick I just order/keep spares off rock auto when I get the new to me ride. As far as exhaust I pay out the rear for rem flex then design the exhaust so I can leave the manifolds on when pulling the engine.
I had a 1988 la 318 it had a rubber valve cover seal with little tubes around the bolt holes, to keep from crushing the rubber. Alot better than the cork ones. I reused them and they were fine.
I have found that it is best to put the weatherstrip adhesive on the water pump and on the side of the gasket that goes against it. Let them both dry and they will then stick together kinda like the old rubber cement we used in grade school!
I’ve used tons of those gaskets with permatex ultra grey silicone and a freshly plained manifold. Never seen them leak again, even years after installing. I had one set on an ls I did that the manifold bolts came loose because I forgot to put lock tight on them. One side was leaking but the other side the bolts were loose and it hung on and didn’t leak. No gasket and silicone has been a winner I have heard.
I got some 3" wide 0.003" copper tape for my exhaust manifold gaskets. Its cheap, tight and compliant. Also it can anneal just a little bit. May not be the most perfect solution, but its holding so far for me.
Tony , I get the same results w/ Hi-tack and instead of baby powder, I use Vaseline, and most of the time I just use Vaseline on bought sides. Then when I have to, for what ever reason, re-do, all I have to do is peal the gasket.
Use Black RTV gasket maker for header flanges instead of those box gaskets. It's cheap insurance & no head to header flange leaks which if not fixed leads to burnt exhaust valves. A simple mechanic trick my pop's showed me back in the late 90's when he was still alive.
@@ericvitelli7113 well depends on the engine to vehicle combo. Some vehicles put a jack & block of wood under the engine, unbolt the motor mounts & slowly raise up the motor: & watching all the close things in the engine bay. Some: install the headers in car first then lower engine in & finish bolting headers in with gradually lowering engine. Some vehicles: bolt on transmission & headers & lower whole mess inside the bay, or bolt everything together on the k- member & raise the entire assembly up to the car/ or lower car onto k-frame engine assembly.... it really depends on the engine & vehicle combo.
@@ericvitelli7113 & it depends on the environment that you're working in... in a gravel driveway, in a chicken coop, in an actual shop with a lift, or in a field, or on the side of the road, or a store's parking lot... btw: if ever in a random parking lot, park under a street light, & try to find a flat-ish area... especially if you're doing a transmission or engine swap out in the parking lot of some random store. 😂🤙🏼
I've always had extractor gaskets leak but never the metal looking ones. But all of the metal looking ones that I've ever used were metal on both sides, not one side like in the video. As for no gaskets, I remember my TAFE teacher telling me a story for when he used to work for Land Rover Australia, and they always had leaks all over the engine on their v8s. They had no gaskets, and Land Rover told them that they had to use hylomar to seal the surface and no gaskets. They always came back leaking. Eventually, he made some gaskets, and they stopped leaking, and it became the official fix for these recalls from now on, lol. I've never worked on land rover v8s before, so as an apprentice, I had to take my teachers word on it. Uncle Tony, you forgot to mention put petroleum jelly on carburettor gaskets to stop them tearing every time you go to change jets.
Good video. I've used the gorilla snot for gaskets before, but the baby powder was a new one on me. Great trick. Have you considered a video about cutting your own gaskets? bet a lot of guys haven't seen that, yet.
I re-use cometic gaskets a minimum of 5 times & might go further as I have zero issues. I clean them, spray a light coat of copper and torque them. Best head gaskets I've ever used & the most expensive, but I'm currently on use #4 with zero issues on a 700 HP/644 'lbs Pontiac.
Back in the day, me and my dad rebuilt an Renault R10 wet sleeve 4 cylinder engine. Problem: No gaskets were available for the sleeves. Since the old man smoked, we patterned the gaskets out of his smokes packs. It worked and I drove that car for a couple of years and was still running well when I sold it...
Another reason I like Japanese engines that have used rubber o-ring gaskets for valve covers since at least 1984. Very easy to reuse with maybe just a dab of RTV in sharp corners.
When I 15 years old my friends and I took the head off a 57 Chevy six to replace burned valves with junkyard valves. We had no money but they worked just fine. Cleaned the used head gasket with Brillo pads. The block deck and head were cleaned as well. We couldn't afford the $8 for a new head gasket. We got a tube of Permatex #1 hardening cement and covered the block and head surfaces. Put the head on and made it tight. What's a torque wrench? The old six shooter actually ran great and didn't leak at all! You could have run it without any head bolts at all ! Those were the good old days !
Great idea! Here's another one. If you need to shape silicone, use an ice cube. It will shape the silicone without sticking and the water won't damage the bonding.
Ive been using 3m yellow death adhesive for more years than i care to remember. One application some people said would never work is on stamped steel crank scraper for Olds 455...i glue the scraper to the block once its ground and clearanced, surface has to be spotless clean. Then install fel-pro 350 diesel oil pan rail gaskets...these are great they are steel core with some fancy pants black gasket material bonded to both sides. Take time in the corners, more yellow death to help hold the rubber end seals. Ive had 100% success rate with zero and i mean zero leaks. My oil pans develop rust on them even at the corners before they ever leak a single drop. Also cooking spray, your choice of flavor, works great on the blue Holley gaskets because anybody who has ever had to scrape the stock grey gaskets after they have been run know what a creative new cuss word experience that is scraping that grey crap off. Hit the blue ones with pam spray both sides and re-use them over and over. 3m weatherstip yellow adhesive is also what we used to use to stick the sanding discs onto your d-a body sander. Seems like nobody does that anymore as most people use sandpaper discs with the sticky already on them, the peel and stick kind. Don't be afraid to use the old fashioned method. Slap the disc on and pull it off several times letting it get tacky and stringy. This will make them much much easier to remove for replacement but still won't fly off.
I've been doing something similar for years you can use silicone or any other gasket adhesive that you like and on the other side of the gasket use a little bit of Permatex anti-seize very lightly put some on one side of the gasket and glue the other side with your preferred gasket maker or glue
When using a gasket it is best to use some aviation type permatex Sealer they even had the old fashioned gold spray. No never ever ever used silicon on gaskets it will turn them too mushy. Silicone is going to be used without a gasket my favorite is ultra black when I don't use gasket and aviation permits sometimes when I use a gasket.
I don't know man. I had a set of cheap flimsy headers on a Chevy truck with a 350. I went through multiple header gaskets put a set of those tin silver ones on because that's all i had at that moment and boom no more problems. Lasted years till i sold the truck. If i remember correctly it was 2-1/2 - 3 years. I installed them with the fiber side against the headers with high temp silicone and let it set up for a day before installation. Results may vary i guess.
Headers...you're talking about headers. We're talking specifically about cast iron manifolds in this video
@@UncleTonysGarage I understand that. But be honest which is harder to seal?
Headers...but it's two completely different things. Header tubes are flexible, and so they will move with the head as both parts expand and contract.
Manifolds are not flexible, so as the parts expand and contract there is movement along their surfaces that will tear at the gasket surface. (think about how glaciers work on the landscape) That's why when there is a gasket between the head and manifold, it's flat metal and not a composite like these gaskets are.
@@UncleTonysGarage Love your channel, Tony, but I should mention that I have the silver gaskets he mentioned on my stock Ford with orig. manifolds and have had a good seal for years. BUT I'm not a hot rodder so my engine never gets high revs. I'm also not saying my results are typical. Loved your video...many good gasket tips.
the old timey solution was to soak your exhaust gaskets overnight and install 'em soaking wet. like a leather gun holster, they'd conform to the surfaces. We also used to chapstick the bowl gaskets on Holley carbs since they had to be pulled regularly for jet changes. but you also had to get a longboard sander to make certain your surfaces were flat as a 10 yr old girl.
Always glue the gasket to the part that comes off, not the block or major component side! Much easier to scrape the gasket off the water pump on the bench then standing on your head trying to get it off the block….
Funny, I was waiting for Tony to say that but he never did.
Use the powder on both sides of the gasket. No scraping gaskets.
A key thing to point out!
I never glue a gasket use rtv on both sides almost no clean up and only a very then coat cause what you see on the outside is also on the i side and if it comes off you may have trouble been doing this for 50 years
I've greased many a carb gasket when I'm tuning jets and emulsion tubes, but I never knew about these tricks. I'm a machinist by trade, but a self taught mechanic who has gone as far as engine rebuilds. I learned from books, forums, and youtube videos like these. Thank you Tony for the knowledge
Hey that's how I learned how to rebuild my 5.3 from top to bottom 100000 miles later still purring like a champ ...from videos and books and machinists ! Cheers bud
Well don't listen to that crap
I've rebuilt possibly a thousand, up to v16 engines, no manufactor says to put anything on your gasket, especially a head gasket. It would be in your best interest not to listen to ( mechanics ?) who deviant from what the manufactor says, I find it interesting that he is concerned about the removal of parts and saving gaskets. Do it right and removal won't be nesessary. Do it wrong and you will be doing it again, not the gaskets fault, your fault. And greasing gaskets it down right idiotic, yes they did that in 1920, but the gasket material then required it.
Yes, a head gasket is the same as a carb top cover or base gasket. Experiences the same forces, removed as frequently, constructed the same. I would pay you to not touch my engine seeing as you have no common sense @@Maurice-c6z
@@Maurice-c6z I one side grease paper intake gaskets on my drag car. Manufacturer is different than performance use.
I knew a guy that used Chap Stick on carburetor gaskets, and he’d reuse them the same way. Good stuff!
That's neater than me dunking my finger in a tub of Vaseline.
Look at the price of a roll of gasket material today. Outrageous.
Back when we were kids we did not use new gaskets, no money for such things. We used gasket maker and the leaks were so bad we seldom worried about oil changes the oil was so diluted from top ups from all the leaks. Thin cardboard was used as gasket material for the coolant system. Worked more or less. Amazing what one can get by with when young dumb and broke.
I've used the gasket material when a gasket wasn't available.
In my younger, poorer, years. I've made carburetor base gaskets out of cereal boxes. Even water pump and gaskets. 3 or 4 stacked together. Sometimes, a thin smear of silicone was used between layers. But a lot of times not. Never had a failure.
I’ve used cereal box’s to make gaskets when I can’t find one (or find one for a reasonable price)
@@chuckbelt6156 Cereal boxes and record sleeves off of LP's.
@@chuckbelt6156
Here for the cereal box paper comments.
I use that stuff all the time.
I say cereal like bondo , there's many products with the same thickness.
Ha he just mentioned some 3m yellow ,that stuff is amazing too.
Anything from gluing bolts in sockets for tight spots but barely used for its intended purpose.
Uncle T, I actually talked to Cometic yesterday about their MLS head gaskets. They can be torqued during mock-up and then reused, as long as they aren't heat-cycled. They need to go on DRY. No sprays, etc on them.
I saw a guy's video where he soaked his carb gaskets in oil. They hold up longer & seal better he says. He has used the same one for years taking the carb on & off doing experiments on his engines. Makes sense to me. Great video Tony.
I've made gaskets doing this. A non corigated cardboard box works great, then soak it in oil and install. I've used them multiple times too.
An old timer got me into using high temp grease on carb gaskets. Works a treat.
An oldtimer years ago told me to wipe down my carb gaskets with atf to keep them from sticking to the carb and reusable. That has worked well for me.
a lot of channels change over time; this feels like a similar informative video that the channel would've put out years ago. Nice to see someone not losing themselves to UA-cam algorithm appeasement, crazy commenters like myself, etc. ;)
I worked in a radial aircraft engine overhaul shop for a couple of years. We made most of our gaskets as replacements were not available. We did have some made for a couple of common engines. But for the most part we made our own. The method was to stick gasket material to one of the mating surfaces using spray contact cement. The cut out the bolt holes and passages using an Exacto knife. Then when assembling the components we would smear a light coat of Permatex Ultra Copper on the other surface. Ultra Copper does not harden and the components will come apart later without damaging the gasket. I think this would provide a better seal than using baby powder. I like your system as well.
On my old ‘64 F100 292, I adhered the valve cover gaskets to the cover, and used a thin slick of grease on the bottom side. You adjust the valves on those engines pretty regularly. Worked quite well. Those gaskets were cork though.
Same here, if you don’t overtighten the fixings the cork gasket lasts for ages and many reuses
Yellow weather strip adhesive....otherwise known as "gorilla snot" for my entire life. LOL. Good stuff as always, Uncle Tony! Thanks, man, for staying cool!
We also called it "elephant snot". Good stuff Maynard.
Haha I love that stuff , anything and everything can be glued with it.
Ive used it on a piece of gutter flashing to cover a rotted rubber body plug hole that fell out 😂😂
We always called tire mounting lube gorilla snot.
@@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance That slimy stuff? Oh, yeah, I get that. I water that crap down since it makes such a mess straight.
I've even used it on occasion to actually glue weatherstrips!
Thanks, Uncle Tony - I learned something.
My dad was a big fan of "yellow muckinpucky", and I've used it for years but not the baby powder trick. I will from now on.
Thank you! You Wizardry from a better time is appreciated at the highest degree. Your tips and tricks will save us in times ahead.
Used to constantly get Header gasket leaks, and blowouts, until I installed Stage 8 locking bolts. Been using the same gaskets for over 12 years now with several remove/installs. Tad pricey but so worth it!
Thanks for the tip. I wonder if they make bolts long enough to use with factory exhaust manifolds, which I have on my car. I'll check it out at Summit.
X2
They can be a pain to install or remove, but sooo worth the money.
You can use a thin layer of grease, wax, chapstick, Vaseline on intake/carburetor gaskets to make them more reusable.
My automatic transmission mechanic taught me about the weather strip adhesive he used it to secure trans pan gaskets to the pan
Back on the Arias hemi in our promod, we used Detroit Diesel "peanut butter" on one side of the blower manifold gaskets so it would seal but not stick. Most of the rest of it I used this silver RTV that came in a can, looked like anti seize but that stuff was awesome. Discovered that stuff working at Patterson Racing Engines back in the 90's. We used 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive for years on stuff having a car dealership. Edelbrock Gasgacinch is fantastic too.
Isn't that Detroit Diesel peanut butter stuff now a Cummins product too? Seems like someone relatively recently had it in a Cummins labeled can with part number. Maybe I was dreaming...on a beach with a drag strip...next to a 24hr speed shop like the old days
Finally get to see someone on UA-cam using the weather strip adhesive trick. I've been gluing my gaskets on for 30 years. It kills me when I see these UA-camrs smothering gaskets with silicone. Another trick for carb gaskets I like to use is chapstick. Less messy than grease or Vaseline and not quite as a dust magnet as well.
Hey hey I use chapstick just bc it was what I had on me and turned out to work great
I really love the indian head gasket sealant. Or a bit of copper spray. I love videos like this. 😊
@@HawkeyeMobileAutoRepair I use Indian head on core plugs and any threaded plugs I know I'll never need to remove. Haven't used copper spray for anything.
I once removed a pan off a Cadillac engine that had so much silicone on it that it had blocked the suction screen on the oil pump.
That’s a very smart useful trick, I’ve never heard of anyone trying this, I’m going to have to try it out!
Those metal composition exhaust gaskets - I’ve used those with iron heads & steel headers have had no problems with them. I usually put a thin film of orange hi temperature silicone specifically formulated for exhaust & let them vulcanize a few hours before install…
Custom homemade headers are a different animal & in my experience, you play around with it until you find what works.
Edit: okay, you’re talking about manifolds, not headers… my brain went straight to exhaust & I only run custom homemade headers, so I inserted my own… tangent.
I find it very surprising, that, in this day and age , babies are still being commercially processed to create baby powder , (and baby oil) .
Start a movement, save the babies......I wonder how long this comment will last?
Population control?
So that's what planned parenthood does with the bodies of murdered children?
White ones too
...baby lotion.
Thanks Tony, I never put two and two together but yeah, that makes sense about the exhaust gaskets. I have the tick tick tick now on my SBC. I'm gonna experiment running without the gasket.
I agree also the 3m yellow is excellent I also use it for terminal connections good idea with the powder also used graphite
After applying the stickum to the assembly and applying the gasket to the stickum, pull the gasket off for a period to allow the gum to flash, then reapply the gasket, then gently assemble the assembly to the block and allow the stickum to cure. This allows the stickum to cure flat. I use Indian varnish with paper gaskets. Have you noticed that gasket sets always have a sheet of ‘paper’ that is perfect for making gaskets? Nice dense stuff? I am always impressed that the gasket companies, Victor-Reinz, for example, always include this sheet of material.
Kentucky Fried chicken boxes was my go to years ago as a broke kid.
And cereal boxes.
@pkuudsk9927 Ha, me too. Unfortunately, KFC is only 4 rich folks nowadays, so now it's the Oladys wine boxes and such.
I learned all my old school tricks from working on in NASCAR we use that glue to glue the lug nuts to the wheels that are going on the car. That way you can just hit them with the gun, no fumble with them. After each race we use a small wire brush to clean out the seat so that they will glue to the wheels and they effortlessly stay on the studs because the first 1/2” doesn’t have threads. Also for headers we always use red high temp silicone. It lasts for a race no problem.
Used black weatherstripping adhesive, correct?
That must have been a few years ago now because the new model NASCAR uses that single nut lock ring to hold the wheel onto the hub which had been used on the Indy cars for years . I remember years ago seeing tires coming off or cars that had to pit because of loose lug nuts and always wondered why they didn't use the system like the Indy cars had & low and behold some years later they are actually using them now on the NASCAR stock cars now although at first they were having issues of them coming loose or the lock ring nut would crack & tires were coming off but it seems they finally got it figured out.
Back in the GOOD 'OL DAYS they had 5 lug nuts, you only HAD to get four on if I remember right.
@@peteloomis8456did you start watching nascar 2 years ago?
@@peteloomis8456so NASCAR is even further removed from local stock car racing. Lost interest a bit when my guy, Earnhardt died, really lost interest with COT and "Chase" series as now the pro version of stick car racing offers no way for skilled local drivers to move up like they did in the 50s-00s.
NASCAR was massive in the 90s to about 2003 but I don't know anybody still watching now in the '20s
I love watching your videos Tony. I don't work on anything as old as you do, but I love to work on "vintage" re: 80s/90s motorcycles and cars. You share a lot of tidbits that they don't include in the modern instructions these days, and I appreciate learning new bits of knowledge that I can apply elsewhere. Also, do you like to anneal and reuse copper washers? I do that to save some pennies (not pennies anymore haha)
Back when my daily driver had solids (71 Z28) I used to seal the cork valve cover gaskets to the covers and always finger wipe the head side with a thin layer of oil off the open head.
To this day
Excellent Excellent Excellent!
Aviation gasket in a can is really handy for oil pumps. If your distributor is run off the same shaft as the oil pump use that stuff, it wipes off and brushes on. I suppose you could use it on several places on an engine.
Cool gasket trick!! Thanks Tony!!
Grease is a lot easier to deal with when you don't want a gasket to stick. Those exhaust gaskets are great. Never had one fail in 20 years. Manifolds, headers, iron heads, aluminum heads, doesn't matter. Will definitely continue using them.
I have used the 3M weatherstrip adhesive for decades on many different things, but never thought of it for reuse of gaskets, so that's a great tip. I am guessing it would be very tough to remove the glued side of the gasket though, because that glue really sticks hard.
All fine, when time to remove gasket, pretty much the same - gaskets would stick anyways.
Try red hi-tack. You can use it on one side and it stays, and soaks into the gasket, but if you want it off it never really hardens, solvent will thin and lift it easily. It also doesn't have a working time like this stuff, you should bolt weatherstrip adhesive before it fully cures (to prevent uneven thickness), but permatex red hi-tack can be applied to gaskets, pitted hose barbs, threads, etc, as long before assembly as you want.
Thanks Tony, great info.
Ive been using the yellow for 20 years but never thought to reuse the gasket lol. I always put it on the part side only. Very cool tip!
Ty for yor constant logic... it is always simple physics. Because of true car guys like you, it still gives me hope for the world of part changers and code readers lol Cheers bud!!!!! Keep up the good content .
I did a Timing belt/water pump job on a Lexus GS300 not too long ago and the water pump gasket was very poor quality. I ended up making a gasket out of the roll. Worked beautifully.
I have those band aid exhaust gaskets on the 352 FE in my FoMoCo. It works. I've had it in place for a few years and it keeps the engine quiet. I can't stand exh. manifold leaks. I should mention, however, I'm NOT a hot rodder, just an old car guy...no headers and no intense use/abuse of my engine, which rarely if ever gets above 2600 rpm. That might be a reason why that gasket set works for me and I don't get blow outs.
Your trick with the sealant and baby powder sounds great. Probably would've helped when I put a new water pump on last year. I tried using a "gasket dressing" from the auto parts store and it didn't really have enough tack to keep the gasket in place. One gasket that was tough for me to keep in place while installing was for the canister housing on the old school oil filter on my old Y-Block. That sealant/adhesive won't work in that application, but I learned from an older mechanic that using lithium grease will help keep it in place during installation.
We used milk cartons for gasket material in the '60's and 70's. Half gallon milk carton was tightly pressed cardboard with either a wax or plastic coating to make it waterproof. It was tough and waterproof and worked.
On my ls engine I have reused the head gaskets at least a dozen times with no issue even at 20lbs of boost. I also reuse the stretch head bolts (tty) I crank them to 65 ft lbs and send it. I love the ls platform.
Will be slamming an Iron Block LS1 (originally a LM7 Bored out, has icon forged flat top pistons) in my 07 Classic Bowtie (GMT800, not 900) It's a race engine but will just see truck duties, so just plenty of torque.
I have to admit, once we rebuilt my '66 425, it aint coming apart until required. I don't experiment, I don't change without need. I just enjoy the torque a fresh nailhead provides.
Thanks for the baby powder tip!!
Great knowledge sharing, Tony. I wondered about these shiny gaskets.
I will say that Remflex gaskets have worked great on my slant 6, especially sealing between the manifoit's and the irregularities in the intake and exhaust to the head, but I have seen many instances on other engines such as small and big block Mopars where no gaskets at all is the best way to go. Especially with stock Iron manifolds.
Tony is right again! This trick works great, done it for years. But I have used the exhaust gaskets for years by using two sets and putting the paper sides back to back. They hold up great on headers that way.
Remflex makes a great header gasket
I had no idea about those exhaust manifold gaskets not being ideal. Nice tip on making gaskets reusable. Thanks again Unkle Tony! Your teachings will not go to waste. Aslo Love the comments and community your videos produce. You are an ace of a tech! The no bull type tech! I would follow your advice over a shop manual if you advised there was a discrepancy from your process. Thats trust!
Great tip thank you! Weather strip adhesive is lousy for interiors but works great for gsskets and floppy carpet.
I reused a MLS (Multi Layered Steel) gasket and it was fine. I did a cylinder head rebuild, and made the mistake of partially pre-filling my hydraulic lifters. Trashed a couple of valves. The gasket was new when I did this, ran just a few hours. So I replaced those valves, but didn't have time to wait for a new gasket. So, I just sprayed the gasket with WD40 between the layers, and wiped the surfaces with carb cleaner. Worked a charm. High compression 11.7:1.
I did use a thin film of Vaseline both sides when installing, which helped removal. I personally would never use glue or any kind of sealant. There are some people who finely machine both surfaces so no gasket is used. If I was racing, I'd make some copper gaskets, a whole bunch of them on a machine.
I would love to see more videos on gaskets.
There is soo many different ways people use silicone or not on gaskets. Oil pan, timing cover, waterpump and intake. The most common parts that get redone and everyone has different methods to how they install the gaskets.
Silicone on one side or both? Or none.
Thanks, great video like always!
I’m about to get into my first head gasket job..and then some.
The timing belt broke on my ladies 02 dodge neon.. I’ve always been scared to mess with cams, timing and valves😬. I guess I need to just jump into the deep end😅. It’s something I’ve always wanted to learn so I guess no time like the present.
Make sure the #1 piston is not at the top when you reinstall the head. It has to be close, but not in its timing mark. This is to avoid bending the valves. Align the cams and then the crank.
Good luck.
Good Ol'Fashion Gorilla Snot :) Love It !! I used to use corn starch instead . Old School tricks these kids got no idea of now a days . One thing also you might want too look at Tony is the fact if you place that silver side to the motor side it works better and as well you wont usually have to change that gasket out and also seems to last longer as well .
I've used some of the dry lube sprays on my carburetor base gaskets with very good results. I don't want them to stick on either side, as they are a pain to scrape off aluminum, and I don't want to risk bits getting into the manifold. I understand baby powder works well too. I've had good luck as well with the dead soft aluminum header gaskets too for holding up well and not leaking. I'm putting a 350 small block together now and have a set of the graphite header gaskets this time, so fingers crossed! PS, I painted the block with the Rustoleum oil- based paint and primer you recommended, mixing the red and yellow to get a Chevy Orange and it turned out very well. Thanks for that advice and video, it's a heavy smooth coating that I hope lasts a long time.
Thanks Tony that explains why I always was changing my header gaskets every season. I thought it was something I was doing. I sprayed copper spray no gasket and seems it worked much better thought it was weird but didn’t have the gasket one weekend and buddy handed me a can of copper spray. That film was so thin didn’t know how it could work but sure did now I know may not have even needed copper spray.
I went through 3 sets of header gaskets on my turbo v8 mustang project until I finally decided to try no gasket at all, and layer some copper RTV on the header flanges. Ever since that, I never had to revisit the issue again, even years later.
Sometimes what seems like the "wrong way" is the one idea that works.
Nice video. I used to slather silicone until I realized how dumb that was. Learned a few things. Thank you.
According to Fel-pro that shiny part is supposed to be for expansion and the fiber flat side is for the head side. Also with the right torque specs they should work well np still after 10 plus thousand they look brand new still. Most folks dont use a torque wrench and the head bolts get loose and burn the gasket maybe some lock washers might help haha. Copper sealer or something would be a good addition to the fibrous side on the head. Couple heat cycles check the bolts torque.
I love learning new stuff from old tech!
318 is my favorite engine Uncle Tony, I love the underdogs my friend.
My neighbor has a Chevy S10 with a 305. It’s usually a 350 they drop in there. Different
Over 50 years of building engines in my hot rod shop. I learned from my WW2 tank mechanic dad a light coat of oil on both sides and together it goes. It always comes apart easily and no scrapping off an old gasket when you need a new one.
Here is a question for you Uncle Tony. I am born in Italy, grew up in Queens NY. Somehow I am a Ford guy, yet now I own a 72 Corvette. You are clearly a Mopar guy. Why would I subscribe to this channel? I dont know, but Im glad I did.
lol I did that crap with the exhaust manifold and yes it does sound like a choochoo train when cold haha ...this channel is gold
Hey Uncle Tony! What would you use as a gasket for headers? 90% of the ones I’ve ever dealt with came with those exhaust leaking bastards, and you’re right. After a while, they’re junk.
Nice video, Uncle Tony! Was wondering if instead of baby powder I could use graphite powder or something similar? Thanks and cheers from Brazil!
Sure, probably better.....
On exhaust manifolds it work better than anything to seal it will even fill minor scratches mixed with light grease aplied like a thin paste. I wouldn't use it on the intake side of things because if the motor sucks it in you will never get it out again.. light grease like Vaseline works well or ChapStick lip gloss you can steal from your girlfriend's purse lol.
AWESOME info UT....MOPAR 4 EVER
That yellow 3m stuff is fantastic! I use it on all air cooled vw engines
Thanks Tony...
Great video!
3m yellow at the shops I worked at we called it gorilla snot. The blue caliper grease was smurf jizz, antiseize was tin man in a bottle or neversneeze, pb blaster was panther piss, everything in the shop had a nick name
In regards to the exhaust gaskets, a product called acoustiseal for a slightly pitted or warped surface works wonders
Cool trick I just order/keep spares off rock auto when I get the new to me ride. As far as exhaust I pay out the rear for rem flex then design the exhaust so I can leave the manifolds on when pulling the engine.
I had a 1988 la 318 it had a rubber valve cover seal with little tubes around the bolt holes, to keep from crushing the rubber. Alot better than the cork ones. I reused them and they were fine.
Wow that's a nice trick I always have to replace gaskets when I work on my sbf's thanks
I have found that it is best to put the weatherstrip adhesive on the water pump and on the side of the gasket that goes against it. Let them both dry and they will then stick together kinda like the old rubber cement we used in grade school!
You are giving us diamonds🎉
Definitely will give this a go , I was using silicon spray to stop sticking,
I’ve used tons of those gaskets with permatex ultra grey silicone and a freshly plained manifold. Never seen them leak again, even years after installing. I had one set on an ls I did that the manifold bolts came loose because I forgot to put lock tight on them. One side was leaking but the other side the bolts were loose and it hung on and didn’t leak. No gasket and silicone has been a winner I have heard.
When I was much younger
I remember my dad and uncle coating one side with grease to allow it to come back off
I got some 3" wide 0.003" copper tape for my exhaust manifold gaskets.
Its cheap, tight and compliant.
Also it can anneal just a little bit.
May not be the most perfect solution, but its holding so far for me.
Tony , I get the same results w/ Hi-tack and instead of baby powder, I use Vaseline, and most of the time I just use Vaseline on bought sides. Then when I have to, for what ever reason, re-do, all I have to do is peal the gasket.
Use Black RTV gasket maker for header flanges instead of those box gaskets. It's cheap insurance & no head to header flange leaks which if not fixed leads to burnt exhaust valves. A simple mechanic trick my pop's showed me back in the late 90's when he was still alive.
how did u get it on in when you cant pull header out
@@ericvitelli7113 well depends on the engine to vehicle combo. Some vehicles put a jack & block of wood under the engine, unbolt the motor mounts & slowly raise up the motor: & watching all the close things in the engine bay.
Some: install the headers in car first then lower engine in & finish bolting headers in with gradually lowering engine.
Some vehicles: bolt on transmission & headers & lower whole mess inside the bay, or bolt everything together on the k- member & raise the entire assembly up to the car/ or lower car onto k-frame engine assembly.... it really depends on the engine & vehicle combo.
@@ericvitelli7113 & it depends on the environment that you're working in... in a gravel driveway, in a chicken coop, in an actual shop with a lift, or in a field, or on the side of the road, or a store's parking lot... btw: if ever in a random parking lot, park under a street light, & try to find a flat-ish area... especially if you're doing a transmission or engine swap out in the parking lot of some random store. 😂🤙🏼
Thanks Tony!
I've always had extractor gaskets leak but never the metal looking ones. But all of the metal looking ones that I've ever used were metal on both sides, not one side like in the video.
As for no gaskets, I remember my TAFE teacher telling me a story for when he used to work for Land Rover Australia, and they always had leaks all over the engine on their v8s. They had no gaskets, and Land Rover told them that they had to use hylomar to seal the surface and no gaskets. They always came back leaking. Eventually, he made some gaskets, and they stopped leaking, and it became the official fix for these recalls from now on, lol.
I've never worked on land rover v8s before, so as an apprentice, I had to take my teachers word on it.
Uncle Tony, you forgot to mention put petroleum jelly on carburettor gaskets to stop them tearing every time you go to change jets.
Bond grey rtv is amazing. Expensive but you can use it for oil pan gaskets and everything but heads.
Good video. I've used the gorilla snot for gaskets before, but the baby powder was a new one on me. Great trick. Have you considered a video about cutting your own gaskets? bet a lot of guys haven't seen that, yet.
Thanks for the tips Tony!
Great idea Tony 😊
I re-use cometic gaskets a minimum of 5 times & might go further as I have zero issues. I clean them, spray a light coat of copper and torque them. Best head gaskets I've ever used & the most expensive, but I'm currently on use #4 with zero issues on a 700 HP/644 'lbs Pontiac.
I use the gaskets that come with the kits on headers after I open them up and have never blown a header gasket
Back in the day, me and my dad rebuilt an Renault R10 wet sleeve 4 cylinder engine. Problem: No gaskets were available for the sleeves. Since the old man smoked, we patterned the gaskets out of his smokes packs. It worked and I drove that car for a couple of years and was still running well when I sold it...
Another reason I like Japanese engines that have used rubber o-ring gaskets for valve covers since at least 1984. Very easy to reuse with maybe just a dab of RTV in sharp corners.
When I 15 years old my friends and I took the head off a 57 Chevy six to replace burned valves with junkyard valves. We had no money but they worked just fine. Cleaned the used head gasket with Brillo pads. The block deck and head were cleaned as well. We couldn't afford the $8 for a new head gasket. We got a tube of Permatex #1 hardening cement and covered the block and head surfaces. Put the head on and made it tight. What's a torque wrench? The old six shooter actually ran great and didn't leak at all! You could have run it without any head bolts at all ! Those were the good old days !
thank you for the insight Tony...
Thanks Tony.
Great idea! Here's another one. If you need to shape silicone, use an ice cube. It will shape the silicone without sticking and the water won't damage the bonding.
Ive been using 3m yellow death adhesive for more years than i care to remember. One application some people said would never work is on stamped steel crank scraper for Olds 455...i glue the scraper to the block once its ground and clearanced, surface has to be spotless clean. Then install fel-pro 350 diesel oil pan rail gaskets...these are great they are steel core with some fancy pants black gasket material bonded to both sides. Take time in the corners, more yellow death to help hold the rubber end seals. Ive had 100% success rate with zero and i mean zero leaks. My oil pans develop rust on them even at the corners before they ever leak a single drop. Also cooking spray, your choice of flavor, works great on the blue Holley gaskets because anybody who has ever had to scrape the stock grey gaskets after they have been run know what a creative new cuss word experience that is scraping that grey crap off. Hit the blue ones with pam spray both sides and re-use them over and over. 3m weatherstip yellow adhesive is also what we used to use to stick the sanding discs onto your d-a body sander. Seems like nobody does that anymore as most people use sandpaper discs with the sticky already on them, the peel and stick kind. Don't be afraid to use the old fashioned method. Slap the disc on and pull it off several times letting it get tacky and stringy. This will make them much much easier to remove for replacement but still won't fly off.
You are so right UT those exhaust gaskets are junk IMHO they caused warpage.
I've been doing something similar for years you can use silicone or any other gasket adhesive that you like and on the other side of the gasket use a little bit of Permatex anti-seize very lightly put some on one side of the gasket and glue the other side with your preferred gasket maker or glue
Thank you Tony. - just subscribed love it.
Informed is a great thing to be 😊
When using a gasket it is best to use some aviation type permatex Sealer they even had the old fashioned gold spray. No never ever ever used silicon on gaskets it will turn them too mushy. Silicone is going to be used without a gasket my favorite is ultra black when I don't use gasket and aviation permits sometimes when I use a gasket.
As always, incredibly good advice!👍👍