Had to paint a couple rooms recently and been watching some of your older videos. Glad to see you're still putting out content and looks like your video quality game has grown as well. Excellent vids thank you!
I've been watching your videos on cutting in and it's truly an art. I'm still trying to master it,so for now a roll of tape is making me look like the painter I ain't.
Hi. Great video. I’m painter from United Kingdom and it’s a pleasure to see other professional techniques and tips. It’s not the first tutorial from you I see a Bible verse showing up on the screen which is great 👍. Looking forward to see more. Thank you
I've been painting for 15 years under the teachings of several 25+ year veteran painters and I have concluded my own personal order of operations. After I finish any prep/prime I mask everything and roll all the walls twice. I then demask and cut in the walls with no tape. I find that rolling twice really tight before any cut minimizes the cut time while helping to avoid any overlapping or framing issues. I never use tape to cut unless its absolutely impossible to free hand and always cut everything twice. You are 100% correct about cutting up and down along lids for second cut... I call it cross hatching the cut and it really does wonders to get rid of any ugly brushstrokes and/or see through issues.
That's probably will be fine on satin and duller finishes. Have you painted anything with sheen doing this method? Specifically on a hard surface? Do you add any treatment to your paint? Thanks for sharing
Ive actually never had a problem with rolling or brushing on top frog tape on both coats as long as I pull while wet on second coat, I always use the yellow frog tape for doing lines on walls , been painting professionally for about 16yrs out of Vermont. Good videos and good advice.
Love your techniques I viewed through your videos do you have one using scaffolding, or what is your best technique for cutting at the highest point of vaulted ceilings
I've always brushed and rolled 2 true cut ins and rolls , but I dig this touch up technique I can see where it would save a lot of time ..when I go up against the tape I like to start the stroke with the sides of the bristles so it doesn't dig under the tape and generally pick a direction to go not much back n forth with brush so I don't dig under the tape ..im just used to going up against the tape with brush for 2 coats ..also never used a 4 inch roller I've used a weenie roller a lot with cut ins but for whatever reason we just don't use 4 inch rollers in Az ..
My best and favorite cut in brush is the Zibra 2 inch chiseled edge brush from Home Depot and Lowes. Best brush I have ever used for cutting in in 25 years.. ALL oftheir brushes are just great.
Love your videos! Thank you for equipping young painters like myself. Question, do you have a video where you take us through the whole process of a repaint? If so could you share the link.
I rarely use tape to cut in. I may use it to protect trim (mostly base trim) from roller splatter. But otherwise, I pretty much do it the way shown here.
Big fan of the Paint Life TV Team.! I could use some advice. I am going to paint the interior of a home a friend purchased. The family can't afford replacing all the drywall. Looks as if there is 30 to 40 years of cigarette stains and smell. What is best to do a solid coat to seal and prime before I put new colors on for them? Appreciate any thoughts. Would love to see a vid on what you use in diff home interior issues for people on a set budget. At least a budget where they can't do a solid remodel. Not sure if "Fresh Start" would be enough. All the best to you and yours!!!!
i always cut twice doesnt take long esp the second coat. For the taping i agree taking it off whilst still wet or just not fully dried and also i make sure my tape doesnt touch the wall at all, if it touches the wall then the chance of it pulling off wall paint is possible. Most the times with frames etc i just cut into them aswell without masking
I like them, because they are small easy to move when high on a ladder. And they fit a brush, with magnet holder and a 4 inch grid with a 4 inch weenie roller well.I also love a 2 1/2 gallon bucket to roll with a 9 inch roller when high up on a 🪜. Have a good day my man.
When working in risky areas, I keep an inch or two in my gallon pail with the wire tied back with tape Easier on my skinny arm and little to no mess in the case of an accident.
Last interior house i painted las week, i used frog tape on the ceiling cutting for the first time, applied the tape, wet it with a wet rag, let it dry for a few mins, applied 850 caulking from Sherwin Williams since it does not have silicone, let it dry for an hour after painting, i got sharp lines like never before on the ceilings.
@@tannercollins7169 i did taped and caulked before any painting, i did no t prime the walls since they already had a coat of paint from a few years ago, i prime always when it's new drywall but not when it's already painted, make sure to do 2 coats when you paint and do not use a cheap paint , use at least middle grade.
When I was working in a union they hated us using tape like for cutting my Forman would have a panic attack so I would have to cut all of it without it.. but honestly that helps so much not get the trim messy.
I’ve got hatbanding after a first coat, where my cut lines are lighter than the rolled wall. I believed the problem is that I did not mix up my 5 gallon pail well enough before applying. My plan is to buy a mixer attachment for my drill, mix up the remainder of my pail (probably 4ish gallons left) and then keep on going until it evens out. Will that work? Or do I need to begin with a fresh batch of paint? Thanks so much!
I've been painting for 32 years and I think it's just as quick doing two coats on the cuttings all the way around that is when I know everything is covered 100%
Depends what you call cut ins. If you are doing cut ins in which you have used masking and you paint all the way to the tape and you let the paint dry before the second coat then the transition between the tape and the painted surface will have a jagged edge look as the Idaho Painter said. This is why he did not paint all the way to the tape on the 1st coat, only the second coat, and I totally agree with this method as the results are much better (very straight, non-jagged edge due to the paint not peeling off with the tape).
@Martin Cox I’m not a pro painter but I learned how to do skim coating and cut-ins from watching YT. I recently finished prepping and painting the entire interior walls of my house. My preference while painting was to cut-in, roll the paint on, cut-in and roll the paint on and my walls looks as if pro’s painted them. It pains me to hire someone because nowadays it seems like most companies are more focused on getting the job done fast instead of providing good quality work. I just prefer to do whatever I can by myself because I know that I will be more focused on quality.
Wow, never saw the ceiling touch up technique. That is the hardest for me. I was taught to go into ceiling corners with a dry brush. Everything else the same.
If paint drys on masking to prevent peel of use a cutter knf and cut along the edges bevore remove masking tape. I cut celings twice but in second time i stay away 2mm from the edge. Greets frm ger.
You could do a drybrush technique to help prevent bleed-through. After a successful drybrush your masking should be sealed really good, so, you can then go full ham with your roller, and do 2 coats nice and quick. Then, you can pull the tape after the second coat while its still wet for an easy same day pull, just be cautious of unintended consequences when pulling wet masking.
Hi, love the video, I'm curious, how do I prevent the cut ins from seeming darker than the rest of the wall, I am guessing it is because I roller the wall, and bruch the cut in, but even after 3 wall coats, they still look darker. thanks if you can help.
normally if any part is darker it means that part as more coverage /paint.A tip to try.. use light wide masking tape and double it up or has wide as your roller wont go beyond it on the areas you are not painting as in this video. You can bend your roller arm outsides a touch and in doing this you can roll (first) and push into the edges where you would normally cut and then just touch up with pretty much a dry brush the bits the roller couldnt touch. I do this with ceiling so i basically dont have to cut in at all
You can avoid most highlighting by doing your stripe coat (brushing) wall by wall so you always have a wet edge. Cut in roll out move to the next wall.. That has to do with paint quality alot of times. I call it babysitting. 😂
@@guywebster8018 nah ive been taught this to avoid brush marks and every painter ive shown this to now does it. Esp for ceilings. walls normally do as you said one wall at a time.
Hi, I’m a beginner to do ceiling and wall painting for my apartment. Your videos help me a lot. A couple question. Can I use frog top or normal tape with caulking on the ceiling to ensure perfect edge line when I’m painting wall? Also, there is caulking on the edge of ceiling and wall and some of them has crack. Shall I remove them and re-apply caulking before I put new paint for ceiling? Thanks
He gave two ways of doing it, then at the end he tried to reiterate one of them and failed... basically described one roll coat, cut-in, remove tape and touch-up ceiling, not explaining where second roll coat was applied. It became somewhat confusing. Imo, he should have went through each method completely, on there own, and left it at that. We can hit repeat if we need a review, and he will get more views... win-win!
This is likely not recommended but I have been in situations where there have been different paint colors in the upper corners so I prime the corner completely in the ceiling as well, paint with a mini roller into the ceiling this causes about a 2 inch band on the ceiling. I make sure I cover those upper corners well with two coats. Yeah I know many are probably cringing right now. Then. I tape a straight line on the wall all around the room. I light prime to the tape, twice and cover the ceiling part too. Finally I paint the ceiling. This leaves straight lines on the upper ceiling even with wavy 〰 ceilings which is most of the time. I try to make it no more than a 1/4 inch drop at any point. You can follow the ceiling if you need to but it will still look razor sharp even up close. It does take longer but I do my own painting and I can be obsessed with details sometimes. I almost always use flat paint on the walls too and the brightest whites on the ceiling. 〰 Cut ins to the ceiling look lazy to me. We are all different and most don't care but I am taller than most and with an 8 foot ceiling I see it.
Hmmm....I was of the understanding that one of the advantages of a professional painter is that tape isn't needed for cutting in because it wastes time and materials. Do you tape for every job?
I thought the advantages of having a professional painter was having a flawless finish? Doesn't matter to me how it happens, the results are what you're paying for imo.
@@ellenjonasson94 100% agree. My skill isn’t to work the same way on every job. It is to use experience and a range of techniques to bring the job through. If I’m in a rental property white ceilings and trim with almond/magnolia walls, then I’m cutting in by hand and it will look pretty tight. If I’m in a new build or higher end property with a feature wall / dark - light contrast then I’m giving the customer laser straight lines and using tape.
@@justindearmond1 Hope it was worth the nightmare. My favourite phrase that I use with difficult clients is "don't worry about the process, only concern yourself with the outcome. That's what you're paying for.."
No matter what I do, the corners between my walls and my ceilings (and between my walls and baseboards) are awful. I don't get enough paint where it should go, and I get paint where it shouldn't go. I've watched so many videos and people are doing this quickly and accurately. I try to do what they do but it just doesn't turn out right. I can't even tape the baseboards well. The paint bleeds under the tape or I somehow manage to get light gray paint above the tape onto the dark gray wall. The tape won't stick to the floor and I've got paint on the floor in a bunch of places. Very often there are little depressions in the drywall, or even just texture, and when I try to cover those little depressions, I can't do it without paint getting in places it shouldn't go. I knew I'd need all the help I could get so I spent a lot of money on good paint, good brushes, good rollers, good tape. It doesn't overcome a lack of skill, though. It's a 10x11 foot room and it's taken an embarrassingly long time just to get to this point. The walls look great. The ceiling looks great. No banding or weird lines anywhere. It's just the cut ins and boy they are ugly. Ruins the whole thing and every time I touch up, I make it worse. I will not hire someone to help. At some point I will just decide enough is enough and live with the result. I thought I was being realistic going in. Having never done this before I knew it would be challenging, but wow.
@@Idahopainter Ha. I wasn't expecting a reply! I was having a pretty bad morning. Yep practice would do it. But if you're a home owner you really don't have anything to practice on before having a go at your house. I finally got some time this afternoon to finish all the real painting, and tonight and tomorrow I will touch it all up the best I can. I'm' sure it will go better next time. And nowhere else in my house to I have any major drywall repair, either. Thanks
Hi I wanted to ask, how would using an old paint as a dusting brush fare with a brush specially designed and sold for dusting? Thanks. P.s and thank you for all your content, they have been extremely helpful.
You don't use tape on window casings or any trim. If you have to use tape then you lightly run a sharp razor knife down the edgs of tape. It will not rip the paint.
Does anyone really just touch up and leave it like that? I would just put another coat on it all... And how many roll first ? Never heard of rolling first
First cut needs too be thinned out "slightly" so you can get in tight. Just need to make sure you box the thinned out stuff with the second coat so it doesn't flash. Way faster. No tape unless it's wood or brick. Your cutting pails too big and you only need about two fingers worth at the bottom of your Paint can for cutting cause it gets heavy. 🤟this is how you hold your cutting pail.
Too many steps and tape used in my opinion. I can’t imagine taping a whole interior just to brush and roll. I suppose if you have employees that don’t have the same control of the brush, masking so much would make sense then
Had to paint a couple rooms recently and been watching some of your older videos. Glad to see you're still putting out content and looks like your video quality game has grown as well. Excellent vids thank you!
Thanks for the tips and for the verse. What a great video :)
I've been watching your videos on cutting in and it's truly an art. I'm still trying to master it,so for now a roll of tape is making me look like the painter I ain't.
I m painter from Malaysia.Truly watching video help improve my painting skill.Thks n God bless
Hi. Great video. I’m painter from United Kingdom and it’s a pleasure to see other professional techniques and tips. It’s not the first tutorial from you I see a Bible verse showing up on the screen which is great 👍. Looking forward to see more. Thank you
I've been painting for 15 years under the teachings of several 25+ year veteran painters and I have concluded my own personal order of operations. After I finish any prep/prime I mask everything and roll all the walls twice. I then demask and cut in the walls with no tape. I find that rolling twice really tight before any cut minimizes the cut time while helping to avoid any overlapping or framing issues. I never use tape to cut unless its absolutely impossible to free hand and always cut everything twice. You are 100% correct about cutting up and down along lids for second cut... I call it cross hatching the cut and it really does wonders to get rid of any ugly brushstrokes and/or see through issues.
👊
That's probably will be fine on satin and duller finishes. Have you painted anything with sheen doing this method? Specifically on a hard surface? Do you add any treatment to your paint? Thanks for sharing
Ive actually never had a problem with rolling or brushing on top frog tape on both coats as long as I pull while wet on second coat, I always use the yellow frog tape for doing lines on walls , been painting professionally for about 16yrs out of Vermont. Good videos and good advice.
Love your techniques I viewed through your videos do you have one using scaffolding, or what is your best technique for cutting at the highest point of vaulted ceilings
Frog tape requires you to seal with water to prevent bleed through
@@andrewgoodright7844can I take a wet rag over the top of the tape?
Great information. Thanks Chris
I've always brushed and rolled 2 true cut ins and rolls , but I dig this touch up technique I can see where it would save a lot of time ..when I go up against the tape I like to start the stroke with the sides of the bristles so it doesn't dig under the tape and generally pick a direction to go not much back n forth with brush so I don't dig under the tape ..im just used to going up against the tape with brush for 2 coats ..also never used a 4 inch roller I've used a weenie roller a lot with cut ins but for whatever reason we just don't use 4 inch rollers in Az ..
Same with the weenie roller, thanks for posting.
I'm going to try the 4" on some jobs, see if I can get fast at it.
My best and favorite cut in brush is the Zibra 2 inch chiseled edge brush from Home Depot and Lowes. Best brush I have ever used for cutting in in 25 years.. ALL oftheir brushes are just great.
Thanks for sharing!
Love this channel!!
Thanks Chris 🙏🏽
You bet
Thanks for having g this Channel I learn and like the tips. Your store is also great Thabks again and I appreciate the Bible verses
Love your videos! Thank you for equipping young painters like myself. Question, do you have a video where you take us through the whole process of a repaint? If so could you share the link.
All your videos are awesome!
Thank you I hope they help you have great success 🤙
@@Idahopainter thanks for taking time to reply. Your videos are awesome .fellow painter drywall finisher in Ireland .
I rarely use tape to cut in. I may use it to protect trim (mostly base trim) from roller splatter. But otherwise, I pretty much do it the way shown here.
Yeah I use a shield when spraying or rolling and free hand any brushing
I don't use the shield when rolling
Yes
Do y'all use a cut bucket that big😂😂
💯
Thanks Bro and GOD Bless
Thank you so much!!!!!
Big fan of the Paint Life TV Team.! I could use some advice. I am going to paint the interior of a home a friend purchased. The family can't afford replacing all the drywall. Looks as if there is 30 to 40 years of cigarette stains and smell. What is best to do a solid coat to seal and prime before I put new colors on for them? Appreciate any thoughts. Would love to see a vid on what you use in diff home interior issues for people on a set budget. At least a budget where they can't do a solid remodel. Not sure if "Fresh Start" would be enough. All the best to you and yours!!!!
Thank you for so much for this useful info. Will be used.
Im a plasterer, but just started painting yesterday, and im actually really good at it i love it rolling is easy but came here to see how you cut
Great channel. I'm learning a ton!! I like the reference to 1 Cor. 12:12
Glad you like it
Dude, love your stuff.
Where's the nightmares when things go sideways.
Show us your only Human.
i always cut twice doesnt take long esp the second coat.
For the taping i agree taking it off whilst still wet or just not fully dried and also i make sure my tape doesnt touch the wall at all, if it touches the wall then the chance of it pulling off wall paint is possible. Most the times with frames etc i just cut into them aswell without masking
Great tips and tricks, definitely a time saving tip for cutting in the ceiling that I will start using. 👍🏼
Going back to the basics as we should. Many people can't master this art.
Wow what a great tip for the ceiling cut in 😀
Good video
When you remove your tape, do you get roller spits on your trim, when you roll second coat.
Chris... why do you prefer a 2 gallon cut bucket? Been painting for 40 years. Love your posts!
I like them, because they are small easy to move when high on a ladder. And they fit a brush, with magnet holder and a 4 inch grid with a 4 inch weenie roller well.I also love a 2 1/2 gallon bucket to roll with a 9 inch roller when high up on a 🪜. Have a good day my man.
May I ask what kind of set up you use? Thank you for your time.👍
When working in risky areas, I keep an inch or two in my gallon pail with the wire tied back with tape Easier on my skinny arm and little to no mess in the case of an accident.
Last interior house i painted las week, i used frog tape on the ceiling cutting for the first time, applied the tape, wet it with a wet rag, let it dry for a few mins, applied 850 caulking from Sherwin Williams since it does not have silicone, let it dry for an hour after painting, i got sharp lines like never before on the ceilings.
Did you tape and caulk before your primer coat? And then did you leave the tape throughout both finish coats and then peel it?
@@tannercollins7169 i did taped and caulked before any painting, i did no t prime the walls since they already had a coat of paint from a few years ago, i prime always when it's new drywall but not when it's already painted, make sure to do 2 coats when you paint and do not use a cheap paint , use at least middle grade.
Top tip cutting iin brush?
With one Wild Wave of the Wand Wash the Walls around the World
I love scripture pop up
When I was working in a union they hated us using tape like for cutting my Forman would have a panic attack so I would have to cut all of it without it.. but honestly that helps so much not get the trim messy.
I’ve got hatbanding after a first coat, where my cut lines are lighter than the rolled wall. I believed the problem is that I did not mix up my 5 gallon pail well enough before applying. My plan is to buy a mixer attachment for my drill, mix up the remainder of my pail (probably 4ish gallons left) and then keep on going until it evens out. Will that work? Or do I need to begin with a fresh batch of paint? Thanks so much!
I've been painting for 32 years and I think it's just as quick doing two coats on the cuttings all the way around that is when I know everything is covered 100%
same here, double coat cut ins. The second coat is alot faster aswell.
Yup!
I do my cuts first,roll 2 coats on the walls and using the paint from the second coat to brush the cuts on last time. Never had an issue.
Depends what you call cut ins. If you are doing cut ins in which you have used masking and you paint all the way to the tape and you let the paint dry before the second coat then the transition between the tape and the painted surface will have a jagged edge look as the Idaho Painter said. This is why he did not paint all the way to the tape on the 1st coat, only the second coat, and I totally agree with this method as the results are much better (very straight, non-jagged edge due to the paint not peeling off with the tape).
@Martin Cox I’m not a pro painter but I learned how to do skim coating and cut-ins from watching YT. I recently finished prepping and painting the entire interior walls of my house. My preference while painting was to cut-in, roll the paint on, cut-in and roll the paint on and my walls looks as if pro’s painted them. It pains me to hire someone because nowadays it seems like most companies are more focused on getting the job done fast instead of providing good quality work. I just prefer to do whatever I can by myself because I know that I will be more focused on quality.
Wow, never saw the ceiling touch up technique. That is the hardest for me. I was taught to go into ceiling corners with a dry brush. Everything else the same.
Nice work! Exceptional explanation. Be blessed in Jesus Christ's name!
If paint drys on masking to prevent peel of use a cutter knf and cut along the edges bevore remove masking tape.
I cut celings twice but in second time i stay away 2mm from the edge. Greets frm ger.
so its best to rip the tape off when the paint is wet, how would they apply if you need 2 coats, that means i need to tape twice?
You could do a drybrush technique to help prevent bleed-through. After a successful drybrush your masking should be sealed really good, so, you can then go full ham with your roller, and do 2 coats nice and quick. Then, you can pull the tape after the second coat while its still wet for an easy same day pull, just be cautious of unintended consequences when pulling wet masking.
Muy buenos videos thank you
Hi, love the video, I'm curious, how do I prevent the cut ins from seeming darker than the rest of the wall, I am guessing it is because I roller the wall, and bruch the cut in, but even after 3 wall coats, they still look darker.
thanks if you can help.
normally if any part is darker it means that part as more coverage /paint.A tip to try.. use light wide masking tape and double it up or has wide as your roller wont go beyond it on the areas you are not painting as in this video. You can bend your roller arm outsides a touch and in doing this you can roll (first) and push into the edges where you would normally cut and then just touch up with pretty much a dry brush the bits the roller couldnt touch.
I do this with ceiling so i basically dont have to cut in at all
@@joshirwin7904 taking the art out of painting brody..
You can avoid most highlighting by doing your stripe coat (brushing) wall by wall so you always have a wet edge. Cut in roll out move to the next wall.. That has to do with paint quality alot of times. I call it babysitting. 😂
@@guywebster8018 cheers
@@guywebster8018 nah ive been taught this to avoid brush marks and every painter ive shown this to now does it. Esp for ceilings. walls normally do as you said one wall at a time.
Hi there.
Why during cutting the paint in the corner[ between wall and ceiling] it becomes faint after even 3 coats?
Thanks
Paint quality
Hi, I’m a beginner to do ceiling and wall painting for my apartment. Your videos help me a lot. A couple question.
Can I use frog top or normal tape with caulking on the ceiling to ensure perfect edge line when I’m painting wall?
Also, there is caulking on the edge of ceiling and wall and some of them has crack. Shall I remove them and re-apply caulking before I put new paint for ceiling?
Thanks
Do you put two coats if you are spraying the paint on?
You can wet caulk between ceiling and wall if it’s un even to make a true cut
👊
First you roll the preliminary coat
Then cut in the ceiling
Trim the taped edges and remove the tape while wet
And finish by rolling the second coat?
He gave two ways of doing it, then at the end he tried to reiterate one of them and failed... basically described one roll coat, cut-in, remove tape and touch-up ceiling, not explaining where second roll coat was applied. It became somewhat confusing. Imo, he should have went through each method completely, on there own, and left it at that. We can hit repeat if we need a review, and he will get more views... win-win!
sorry 2nd 1/2 u lost me @ 5:55 re cap and scenario @ 3:33 we cut no roll 2nd cut?
This is likely not recommended but I have been in situations where there have been different paint colors in the upper corners so I prime the corner completely in the ceiling as well, paint with a mini roller into the ceiling this causes about a 2 inch band on the ceiling. I make sure I cover those upper corners well with two coats. Yeah I know many are probably cringing right now. Then. I tape a straight line on the wall all around the room. I light prime to the tape, twice and cover the ceiling part too. Finally I paint the ceiling. This leaves straight lines on the upper ceiling even with wavy 〰 ceilings which is most of the time. I try to make it no more than a 1/4 inch drop at any point. You can follow the ceiling if you need to but it will still look razor sharp even up close. It does take longer but I do my own painting and I can be obsessed with details sometimes. I almost always use flat paint on the walls too and the brightest whites on the ceiling. 〰 Cut ins to the ceiling look lazy to me. We are all different and most don't care but I am taller than most and with an 8 foot ceiling I see it.
Thank you for the great advise and the Bible verse brother. Praise Jesus!
Hmmm....I was of the understanding that one of the advantages of a professional painter is that tape isn't needed for cutting in because it wastes time and materials.
Do you tape for every job?
I thought the advantages of having a professional painter was having a flawless finish? Doesn't matter to me how it happens, the results are what you're paying for imo.
@@ellenjonasson94 100% agree. My skill isn’t to work the same way on every job. It is to use experience and a range of techniques to bring the job through. If I’m in a rental property white ceilings and trim with almond/magnolia walls, then I’m cutting in by hand and it will look pretty tight. If I’m in a new build or higher end property with a feature wall / dark - light contrast then I’m giving the customer laser straight lines and using tape.
@@xxnonstopdancingxx ~ I respect that ✓
I was just posing a question/comment.
@@justindearmond1 Hope it was worth the nightmare. My favourite phrase that I use with difficult clients is "don't worry about the process, only concern yourself with the outcome. That's what you're paying for.."
Look at that cut bucket 😂😂
What is a cut in??
Why do you tape off the sides of windows? Why not just cut in like on the ceiling? Window sides sometimes I tape off and sometimes I just free hand.
We all have our methods
I can see the light spots
What happened to John? ?
He owns B&K
No matter what I do, the corners between my walls and my ceilings (and between my walls and baseboards) are awful. I don't get enough paint where it should go, and I get paint where it shouldn't go. I've watched so many videos and people are doing this quickly and accurately. I try to do what they do but it just doesn't turn out right. I can't even tape the baseboards well. The paint bleeds under the tape or I somehow manage to get light gray paint above the tape onto the dark gray wall. The tape won't stick to the floor and I've got paint on the floor in a bunch of places. Very often there are little depressions in the drywall, or even just texture, and when I try to cover those little depressions, I can't do it without paint getting in places it shouldn't go. I knew I'd need all the help I could get so I spent a lot of money on good paint, good brushes, good rollers, good tape. It doesn't overcome a lack of skill, though. It's a 10x11 foot room and it's taken an embarrassingly long time just to get to this point. The walls look great. The ceiling looks great. No banding or weird lines anywhere. It's just the cut ins and boy they are ugly. Ruins the whole thing and every time I touch up, I make it worse. I will not hire someone to help. At some point I will just decide enough is enough and live with the result.
I thought I was being realistic going in. Having never done this before I knew it would be challenging, but wow.
Practice
@@Idahopainter Ha. I wasn't expecting a reply! I was having a pretty bad morning. Yep practice would do it. But if you're a home owner you really don't have anything to practice on before having a go at your house. I finally got some time this afternoon to finish all the real painting, and tonight and tomorrow I will touch it all up the best I can. I'm' sure it will go better next time. And nowhere else in my house to I have any major drywall repair, either.
Thanks
Cutting under moulding is easy. The challenge is cutting without moulding.
I’ve never got away with 1 cut and touch up on ceiling cut. Maybe it’s a paint quality thing.
Paint quality for sure
Hi I wanted to ask, how would using an old paint as a dusting brush fare with a brush specially designed and sold for dusting?
Thanks.
P.s and thank you for all your content, they have been extremely helpful.
Why use any tape? I understand on say a baseboard to avoid sprinkle but heck on windows and wall transitions? Never seen you do that bruh
You don't use tape on window casings or any trim. If you have to use tape then you lightly run a sharp razor knife down the edgs of tape. It will not rip the paint.
Philippians 4:6-7
Does anyone really just touch up and leave it like that? I would just put another coat on it all... And how many roll first ? Never heard of rolling first
If the trim is caulk and your painting flat walls the paint should never rip up the wall when removing the tape while dry.
First cut needs too be thinned out "slightly" so you can get in tight. Just need to make sure you box the thinned out stuff with the second coat so it doesn't flash. Way faster. No tape unless it's wood or brick. Your cutting pails too big and you only need about two fingers worth at the bottom of your Paint can for cutting cause it gets heavy. 🤟this is how you hold your cutting pail.
Too many steps and tape used in my opinion. I can’t imagine taping a whole interior just to brush and roll. I suppose if you have employees that don’t have the same control of the brush, masking so much would make sense then
Love the scriptures 1cor. 12:12
You should always pop up a Bible verse on your vids.
Thanks
If you're a real pro with a brush you don't need to use any tape except for the baseboards.
Hey I paint my baseboards without tape and they look great. Don't get cocky
I haven't used tape on baseboards in 15 yrs 🤦♂️
Says who? Just do what works for you and leaves you satisfied. There's always more than one way of doing things.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 no thanks man my cut work is as good as your tape
Was you born again in jesus cristo
you cant do touch ups
Tribal tatts lmao
why are you taping
Like seriously
Bro really
Dawg jus stop
Gay