Thanks again for taking the time to demonstrate the installation of the threaded inserts in a detailed stepwise fashion. This is super helpful! Also, I can highly recommend your paint handles - they are the best!
For those of you who don't mind throwing money at the problem, Elevate makes a great jig for automating this task. All six holes (two in the body, two in the neck for the bolts, and two in the neck for the barrels) are lined up perfectly.
The motor on that Nova drill press is crazy quiet! And the only way I’d try routing that mortise is just like you did it with a large acrylic base to hold pressure on. No way I’d free hand that with just a regular base.
Just a suggestion to streamline the drilling/locating holes in the tenon. If you had an extra head block that was pre-crossdrilled, you could place that over the tenon and use that as a drill guide. That would save locating and marking holes each time. It. Could also have the bolt hole guides, as well. The hole locations could then be transferred to the mortise with dowel centers. You may have already considered all this, but this is what hit me as I was watching. Thanks so much for sharing your craft and expertise! I build Mt. dulcimers and am getting ready to begin my first acoustic guitar build. I have some Bolivian RW I got for free and a Lutz Spruce top. It will be a Parlor sized guitar, as that is what the side length limits me to. I will forward pics when I'm done. God Bless!
You guys are doing a great job and thank you for the free videos. Ignore all these Ignorant trolls on here talking crap. They wouldn't say things like this to your face. Only Anonymously behind their keyboards, while wishing they had half of your talent.
The cross dowel barrel nuts are an excellent solution for attaching the neck. It is basically the same thing as drilling and gluing cross grain dowels for added strength for the screws to bite into, without the wood and the gluing, as well as machine threads and bolts. Chris, Do you locktite the threads when you permanently attach the neck?
Great video dudes! I used barrel hardware for my first two guitars. I’m using inserts for 3 & 4 to experiment and to just get the experience. I agree though that barrels makes more sense thinking about strength. Barrels also seem easier to use & install than, say, the bolt bar like what Gore & Gilet use.
so what if you put the barrel nuts inside the heel, drill it from the heel cap side (will be covered anyway) and you end up with much more wood behind the nuts, should be stronger, right?
A great educational video. The barrel nuts seem to be a great improvement for the bolt on neck. I know a bolt on neck is a real plus for future neck resets. Is there a video where you discuss bolt on vs. glue?
I actually went the opposite route and went to the threaded inserts from the barrel bolts. Drilling into the side of the tenon on my first build basically compromised the strength of the tenon so that when I put too much tension on the barrel bolt the tenon actually broke at that point. I'd much rather just epoxy a threaded insert in.
Question about the "furniture" connections: Since there's no adhesive, is there any concern that they'll move if the wood dries and become loose in the hole? Or possibly crack the tennen if the wood were to absorb more moisture and expand with the tight fit? (I know it's Florida, so I would think it only lose moisture, but still thought it was a valid question ha!)
As someone familiar with fasteners and their fabrication, I'm curious where and how you sourced these materials. Honestly, quality COMPATIBLE metals that are going to be in constant contact are the only thing that matters. They will chemically interact - good luck ! Love the channel
Yes, great point. I’ll also add that the type and alloy constituents of that fastener will make for any number of successes or failures. That much tension will badly deform or split, crumble or, as U said, chemically will interact with each other, leading to tension failure.
Question, why don't you make jigs for drinking the holes for the neck so all your guitars are basically identical. Then if something weird happened and someone say needed a replacement neck it would be super easy to make that happen...
Wasn’t episode 5 recorded on a cutting-edge vcr tape? 😉 BTW, Chris…I’m loving the “Albert Einstein” look. It captures your sheer-genius…mad-scientist persona 🎶❤️🎶
Hey, when you guys get some free time would you mind doing a video on important personal protective equipment and proper ventilation for beginners and shops first starting out. I have my own shop I've been running for a year and just want to make sure I have everything I need to protect my health while doing certain tasks that may be less than health friendly. Thanks always, I learn a lot from watching your videos.
Myself, I prefer to do all cuts and drilling in the neck while it is still a square chunk with 90 degree angles ... just so I do not have to make any adjustments in cutting angles or drilling - i.e. tenon grommet/barrel nut ....
I know you mean how far they should protrude through the fixture. While that's a good safe rule-of-thumb for assemblies that must hold together against big mechanical loads or vibration, it doesn't take a lot of torque to hold this type of neck joint together solidly so one or two threads protruding through the back of the socket is probably sufficient since you'll never even approach the breaking strength of the bolt before damaging the guitar. This also avoids having to drill or rout excess wood from the neck tenon just for internal clearance for a longer-than-necessary bolt.
I was gutted that you routed out the top. It feels like it may have compromised its structural stability. Surely a drill press could be used for a hole for truss rod access? Maybe I’m wrong, but it seems such a shame to lose any of that beautiful top
@@ennsguitars7607 maybe right I only have 18 guitars and three of them are luthier custom built all dovetail and all have a fabulous tone and sound, I will only buy guitars that have hide glue and dovetail neck I love the workman ship and tradition, I have a 1939 00 Martin and a 1936 Gibson Nick Lucas both are dovetail and hide glue and the best sounding guitars I ever played
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You’re a true blessing to the community. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
This guitar is the reason I started following this channel, the rest is history good job Chris & Matt
Thanks again for taking the time to demonstrate the installation of the threaded inserts in a detailed stepwise fashion. This is super helpful! Also, I can highly recommend your paint handles - they are the best!
For those of you who don't mind throwing money at the problem, Elevate makes a great jig for automating this task. All six holes (two in the body, two in the neck for the bolts, and two in the neck for the barrels) are lined up perfectly.
It is a very nice tool.
The motor on that Nova drill press is crazy quiet! And the only way I’d try routing that mortise is just like you did it with a large acrylic base to hold pressure on. No way I’d free hand that with just a regular base.
The wood is so beautiful
How does this kind of joint acts in different situations of moisture, wheather chances etc? And should there be more wood around those barrel nuts?
Great video, first time on this channel but probably coming back for more. Been learning about bolt on conversion and this is a great idea.
Gooood evening from central Florida! Hope everyone has a great night!
Just a suggestion to streamline the drilling/locating holes in the tenon. If you had an extra head block that was pre-crossdrilled, you could place that over the tenon and use that as a drill guide. That would save locating and marking holes each time. It. Could also have the bolt hole guides, as well. The hole locations could then be transferred to the mortise with dowel centers. You may have already considered all this, but this is what hit me as I was watching. Thanks so much for sharing your craft and expertise!
I build Mt. dulcimers and am getting ready to begin my first acoustic guitar build. I have some Bolivian RW I got for free and a Lutz Spruce top. It will be a Parlor sized guitar, as that is what the side length limits me to. I will forward pics when I'm done.
God Bless!
You guys have an amazing amount of tools and talent - very cool series! Thanks
You guys are doing a great job and thank you for the free videos. Ignore all these Ignorant trolls on here talking crap. They wouldn't say things like this to your face. Only Anonymously behind their keyboards, while wishing they had half of your talent.
Man is Chris turning into Moses. Great video guy's Dean 🇬🇧
The cross dowel barrel nuts are an excellent solution for attaching the neck. It is basically the same thing as drilling and gluing cross grain dowels for added strength for the screws to bite into, without the wood and the gluing, as well as machine threads and bolts.
Chris,
Do you locktite the threads when you permanently attach the neck?
Great video dudes! I used barrel hardware for my first two guitars. I’m using inserts for 3 & 4 to experiment and to just get the experience. I agree though that barrels makes more sense thinking about strength. Barrels also seem easier to use & install than, say, the bolt bar like what Gore & Gilet use.
Excellent!
so what if you put the barrel nuts inside the heel, drill it from the heel cap side (will be covered anyway) and you end up with much more wood behind the nuts, should be stronger, right?
A great educational video. The barrel nuts seem to be a great improvement for the bolt on neck.
I know a bolt on neck is a real plus for future neck resets. Is there a video where you discuss bolt on vs. glue?
In other videos you routed the channel in the fretboard extension before you put the top on. Were you just routing through the top wood here?
8:34 "Got clearance Clarence."
I actually went the opposite route and went to the threaded inserts from the barrel bolts. Drilling into the side of the tenon on my first build basically compromised the strength of the tenon so that when I put too much tension on the barrel bolt the tenon actually broke at that point. I'd much rather just epoxy a threaded insert in.
Apparently, the barrel nuts are known in the furniture trade as cross dowel nuts.
This series is great, as soon as you finish building this guitar you have to start building others and show the process but faster hahaha
Just a question: wouldn’t it be easier to pre-drill the holes before assembling the guitar body?
Love seeing this come together!
Any updates pending on the Woodstock gujitar?
Question about the "furniture" connections: Since there's no adhesive, is there any concern that they'll move if the wood dries and become loose in the hole? Or possibly crack the tennen if the wood were to absorb more moisture and expand with the tight fit? (I know it's Florida, so I would think it only lose moisture, but still thought it was a valid question ha!)
As someone familiar with fasteners and their fabrication, I'm curious where and how you sourced these materials. Honestly, quality COMPATIBLE metals that are going to be in constant contact are the only thing that matters. They will chemically interact - good luck ! Love the channel
Yes, great point. I’ll also add that the type and alloy constituents of that fastener will make for any number of successes or failures. That much tension will badly deform or split, crumble or, as U said, chemically will interact with each other, leading to tension failure.
Good to know thats why I read the comments good info!
Question, why don't you make jigs for drinking the holes for the neck so all your guitars are basically identical. Then if something weird happened and someone say needed a replacement neck it would be super easy to make that happen...
Wasn’t episode 5 recorded on a cutting-edge vcr tape? 😉
BTW, Chris…I’m loving the “Albert Einstein” look. It captures your sheer-genius…mad-scientist persona 🎶❤️🎶
I enjoy your videos, you guys rock!
thank you
Hey, when you guys get some free time would you mind doing a video on important personal protective equipment and proper ventilation for beginners and shops first starting out. I have my own shop I've been running for a year and just want to make sure I have everything I need to protect my health while doing certain tasks that may be less than health friendly. Thanks always, I learn a lot from watching your videos.
Is the tray in that fret caddy magnetized? That would be nice...
Yes
Oh cool, thanks @@DriftwoodGuitars
The barrel nuts make way more sense than a threaded insert in the tenon. I'll use that on my next acoustic as well!
Why not drill through the neck block for the truss rod access before its glued into the guitar?
have you ever played a crafter brand guitar? they are made in korea, I'd love to see one cut in half
very cool
i am craving for that guitar :)
Every video you look more and more like Gandalf 😂😂😂 awesome
This man is becoming Noah before our very eyes. Don’t be surprised to find out he is building an ark.
What is happening to Chris’ hair..?!? Is he turning into the three thousand year-old man? 😂
Seems like it would be better to router that groove in the headblock earlier so you don't cut the top. It just sounds like a better idea all around.
Myself, I prefer to do all cuts and drilling in the neck while it is still a square chunk with 90 degree angles ... just so I do not have to make any adjustments in cutting angles or drilling - i.e. tenon grommet/barrel nut ....
Chris are you turning into Moses?? 🤣🤣
The mechanical rule for any threads is that they should be as long as the diameter of the bolt is.
I know you mean how far they should protrude through the fixture. While that's a good safe rule-of-thumb for assemblies that must hold together against big mechanical loads or vibration, it doesn't take a lot of torque to hold this type of neck joint together solidly so one or two threads protruding through the back of the socket is probably sufficient since you'll never even approach the breaking strength of the bolt before damaging the guitar. This also avoids having to drill or rout excess wood from the neck tenon just for internal clearance for a longer-than-necessary bolt.
So who farted at 0:34? 😂
Hey y’all
Go back and look an episode 1 and see how much more grey hair Chris has now compaired to when he first started this guitar.
Free handing the truss cavity crooked triggered me.
Dovetail? Does it really need inserts? I believe you. Martin wouldn’t jkjkjk. I know u love those comments. Cheers.
This is taking an ABSURD amount of time
Don't mess this up man😂
Can you give me the date when my 3004 year old guitar will be ready
That method seems just as sketchy to me a threaded insert. Maybe a longer threaded insert 🤷♂
5 years ago 3005 year old guitar
When you are making a 3000 Year old guitar, you have to look like a 3000 year old man.
Don't gap it up
I was gutted that you routed out the top. It feels like it may have compromised its structural stability. Surely a drill press could be used for a hole for truss rod access?
Maybe I’m wrong, but it seems such a shame to lose any of that beautiful top
3002 year old guitar
Somebody needs a haircut😅
No offense but I am pretty sure a dovetail neck is a better guitar.
Many modern high end guitar makers would disagree. Every single person who has done a neck reset would likely disagree also.
@@ennsguitars7607 maybe right I only have 18 guitars and three of them are luthier custom built all dovetail and all have a fabulous tone and sound, I will only buy guitars that have hide glue and dovetail neck I love the workman ship and tradition, I have a 1939 00 Martin and a 1936 Gibson Nick Lucas both are dovetail and hide glue and the best sounding guitars I ever played