Great Video. Must have been allot of work to set up...! Question: what Fuji Aircap (ex: 1.3mm, 1.5mm , 1.8mm ) did you use with the SW Gallery ? thanks in advance.
Thanks for the video!! Very helpful! My local SW gotta demo in a few days. But it’s great to see all the different combinations from somebody that knows 👍👍! Gonna try this product out on a built in bookcase i got coming up. Thanks again, to you and your helper 😃👍👍🙏🏻
I had really bad luck with this I sprayed two coats of a dark caviar color in the gallery series they have been in my house cabinet doors for 10 days and barely touching my fingernail on it it leaves a scratch on the finish very easily I've never seen anything that scratches so easy what am I doing wrong?
To be honest the painter that I hired I don't know for sure if he even used to primer and also Sherwin-Williams said that you don't even need to use primer but man I'll tell you it's been a nightmare in this stuff scratches effortlessly do you have any pointers? Thank you so much
@@rickcorrea891 You definitely have to primer first. I mentioned that in the video. It scratches much easier without the primer but should still hold up to normal wear and tear unless the wrong tip sized was used and it didn't atomize correctly. Or the cabinets were not properly cleaned or contaminated in which case nothing will stick.
Just used this the other day on a full Kitchen, my paint rep says it can be used as it’s own primer with proper cleaning and sanding. Also will stain block with 24hrs between coats. I didn’t risk it though, I degreased, sanded with a Festool sander and used Extreme bond primer. Sprayed two coats using 408 FFLP tip .
Yeah. Im not sold on the self priming, at least not in white. I sprayed some grey at the pro show and it seemed to work better. I just did a kitchen in white and didn't properly prime, paid for it dearly. Cost me an extra gallon of paint and 2 days.
Have you tried Sher Wood Vinyl Surfacer Primer? It’s a lacquer based primer and dries within 30min. Extremely thin material. Dries very hard and sands to a powder similar to a shellac but better IMO. What grit did you use to sand for unprimed surface then between coats? Awesome tests thank you for the review
Every painter has their own methods and products we like but I’m still waiting on a water based primer I’d feel comfortable using on stained cabs or for sealing bare wood.. oil or lacquer all day as a primer.. then I’d give the gallery series a shot
@@LaughAtYourDemise Absolutely on the primer. I used kilz oil based for years. But with the fems I eventually had to think about the long term helf effects from the odor. Kilz does have a low odor oil based primer ill be trying out soon
I spray with an HVLP Fuji Q4 most thicker products need to be thinned to come out of these guns the titan gun is a way better combo with this turbine in my opinion. they just introduced this product to me at SW I clear coat all of my finishes with a poly for extra protection. I’d like to know how this Gallery product holds up in a high traffic area such as a kitchen. I’m going to grab a gallon here soon and make a sample door. I use bin primer before the paint.
What percentage solid is this product? It’s super thin… super expensive. IMO ur way better off buying “envirolak” there primer is 70% solids and super easy to sand. Actually u only have to sand on the second coat of “envirolak”. And it’s half the price!!!
I haven't tried envirolak. I was using SW Euerethan Trim Enamel which is also about half the price and pretty much bullet proof after 25 days of curing. Price doesn't bother me as much. Costs me about $65 more per job. With the average refinishing price of $3500 the benefits outway the additional costs. I will pick up some envirolak to play around with it though.
I sprayed some 20 sheen on slab cabinet doors, painted them vertical and the hang was impressive. Love the sheen. 45 min here in AZ it’s cured and hard as a rock! Love this stuff.
Thanks for sharing. This post has put me over the edge into trying it. The one question mark for me was vertical hang: guys on paint talk saying that it was prone to runs and sags.
@@ILruffian Vertical sag is real. Im doing another video soon at a clients house. Takes some adjustments when spraying, once you get use to spraying it, it lays very well.
@@atlantatrendsconstruction yes on unfinished wood it’s great. Though it will require 3 maybe 4 coats pending conditions. I use Bin shellac 1 coats heavy primer sand, then top coat 2 times.
How do you like the semi-gloss? is it too shiny in person?
@@prettylittleliar7311 Not really. It has more sheen than the satin, but it's not as shinny as normal semi gloss paints.
@atlantatrendsconstruction OK! Thank u soo much for responding.
Thanks. Yours was the first review I saw on this product
Thanks. It's definitely a game changer.
well done and what a grate helper !!!!!!!!!! hope i get to try this out soon
Thank you.
This was a super helpful video. Obvious you're a pro who knows what matters.
Thanks.
Great Video. Must have been allot of work to set up...! Question: what Fuji Aircap (ex: 1.3mm, 1.5mm , 1.8mm ) did you use with the SW Gallery ? thanks in advance.
Thanks. Wasn't to bad to set up. I used the 1.3 air cap. I tried the 1.8 but gallery is so thin it wouldn't atomize.
Thanks for the video!! Very helpful! My local SW gotta demo in a few days. But it’s great to see all the different combinations from somebody that knows 👍👍! Gonna try this product out on a built in bookcase i got coming up. Thanks again, to you and your helper 😃👍👍🙏🏻
Good luck. I haven't heard of anyone that has used it and didnt like it. What are you spraying it with?
I had really bad luck with this I sprayed two coats of a dark caviar color in the gallery series they have been in my house cabinet doors for 10 days and barely touching my fingernail on it it leaves a scratch on the finish very easily I've never seen anything that scratches so easy what am I doing wrong?
What did you use for primer?
To be honest the painter that I hired I don't know for sure if he even used to primer and also Sherwin-Williams said that you don't even need to use primer but man I'll tell you it's been a nightmare in this stuff scratches effortlessly do you have any pointers? Thank you so much
@@rickcorrea891 You definitely have to primer first. I mentioned that in the video. It scratches much easier without the primer but should still hold up to normal wear and tear unless the wrong tip sized was used and it didn't atomize correctly. Or the cabinets were not properly cleaned or contaminated in which case nothing will stick.
Just used this the other day on a full Kitchen, my paint rep says it can be used as it’s own primer with proper cleaning and sanding. Also will stain block with 24hrs between coats.
I didn’t risk it though, I degreased, sanded with a Festool sander and used Extreme bond primer. Sprayed two coats using 408 FFLP tip .
Yeah. Im not sold on the self priming, at least not in white. I sprayed some grey at the pro show and it seemed to work better. I just did a kitchen in white and didn't properly prime, paid for it dearly. Cost me an extra gallon of paint and 2 days.
@@integramaxllc I used a FFLP 308 had no problems with sagging or runs.
Have you tried Sher Wood Vinyl Surfacer Primer? It’s a lacquer based primer and dries within 30min. Extremely thin material. Dries very hard and sands to a powder similar to a shellac but better IMO. What grit did you use to sand for unprimed surface then between coats? Awesome tests thank you for the review
I haven't. I got away from lacquer a few years ago becayse of the high VOC's. 220 to scuff the surface. 320 in-between coats.
Thanks for watching.
Every painter has their own methods and products we like but I’m still waiting on a water based primer I’d feel comfortable using on stained cabs or for sealing bare wood.. oil or lacquer all day as a primer.. then I’d give the gallery series a shot
@@LaughAtYourDemise Absolutely on the primer. I used kilz oil based for years. But with the fems I eventually had to think about the long term helf effects from the odor.
Kilz does have a low odor oil based primer ill be trying out soon
I spray with an HVLP Fuji Q4 most thicker products need to be thinned to come out of these guns the titan gun is a way better combo with this turbine in my opinion. they just introduced this product to me at SW I clear coat all of my finishes with a poly for extra protection. I’d like to know how this Gallery product holds up in a high traffic area such as a kitchen. I’m going to grab a gallon here soon and make a sample door. I use bin primer before the paint.
What percentage solid is this product? It’s super thin… super expensive. IMO ur way better off buying “envirolak” there primer is 70% solids and super easy to sand. Actually u only have to sand on the second coat of “envirolak”. And it’s half the price!!!
I haven't tried envirolak. I was using SW Euerethan Trim Enamel which is also about half the price and pretty much bullet proof after 25 days of curing. Price doesn't bother me as much. Costs me about $65 more per job.
With the average refinishing price of $3500 the benefits outway the additional costs.
I will pick up some envirolak to play around with it though.
I sprayed some 20 sheen on slab cabinet doors, painted them vertical and the hang was impressive. Love the sheen. 45 min here in AZ it’s cured and hard as a rock! Love this stuff.
Did you prime them first? What set up did you use?
@@atlantatrendsconstruction no primer, slab cabinet doors were unfinished MDF. Bonding was superb! I used airless @ 1500 psi, 308 FFLP tip
Thanks for sharing. This post has put me over the edge into trying it. The one question mark for me was vertical hang: guys on paint talk saying that it was prone to runs and sags.
@@ILruffian Vertical sag is real. Im doing another video soon at a clients house. Takes some adjustments when spraying, once you get use to spraying it, it lays very well.
Thoughts if this or renner?
Definitely needs a primer to maximize the bonding.
Have you use the product yet? If so what primers have you tried?
@@atlantatrendsconstruction yes on unfinished wood it’s great. Though it will require 3 maybe 4 coats pending conditions. I use Bin shellac 1 coats heavy primer sand, then top coat 2 times.
Extreme bond will scratch off Melamine .
It can. I will usually use oil based primer with melamine. Or remove it and extreme bond the mdf underneath.
Or just go directly over the melamine with BJM cabinet coat or BJM command as they can go over almost anything direct and brush/roll.