Thank you very much for your detailed videos!!! Is there a way to replace the micro filter on the input port/hole of the EHA valve? If so, what should be the process? is this filter a commercial common part? I'd got my fuel system contaminated and I'm trying to clean & recover most parts as possible.
@@mercedeske Thanks for the quick response!, but it seems to be clogged after carb cleaner (and falling apart, because I see some kind of plastic or rubber peeking out 😓)
Good afternoon, Thank you in advance for sharing the information about the injection system, it has helped a lot. I have a 190 2.0 petrol, and I'm having problems with the injection part, it only starts with the fuel adjustment valve turned off, if it starts, no petrol comes out of the injectors, I have 5 bars of constant pressure after starting, before I had 6 bars, if you turn on the valve with the engine running, it works normally. Can you help me? Greetings José
Hi Ivica, thanks a lot for your videos & they're super helpful for the classic mercedes community. So I would like to ask a few questions. I own a 1989 190E, M102 engine and lately I realized that my EHA valve gets wet just after turning the fuel pump on, very very small leaks but still enough to get me worried. 1) So before I spend the big bucks on it, I'm wondering if just replacing the green O-rings could solve the issue? 2) Is the EHA valve the same for all KE-Jetronic or it varies based on the car (whether it's a W201, a W126, a W124, etc.)? 3) Does a new EHA come adjusted or I have to deal with that brass screw after installing a new EHA? Thank u!
Hi and thanks, concerning the EHA - they are all compatible(only at the dealership they will tell you the opposite). If the leaks come from the joint, where the FD and the EHA meet, then you can try replacing the two green o-rings, but if they come from some different place then there is nothing you can do. The brand new one is calibrated but its work depends of the sensors so if you have faulty sensors that need replacement then even that one will not help you, you would need to readjust the allen screw. Looks like I have to do a video on that topic, I think people still don't understand how everything works. Best regards
@@mercedeske Thanks a lot for the quick response. This weekend I'll examine where the leak is exactly coming from; and yes, that video would definitely be helpful. Keep up the good work .... All the love from Kigali.
In two cases - a leaky EHA and if its baffle plate is broken. Then the EHA makes constanly lean mixture(pressure difference 0.2bar). That's something you will have to check with your pressure gauge! Best regards!
Thanks for you videos ! I learned a lot about KE-Jetronic. I rebuild my fuel distributor because of the diaphragm. And now the car don't start. Any fuel goes out of the head in the metal hose. I noticed that EHA is leaking by a little hole. Is it possible for the engine to not start because this sensor is leaking so no fuel goes in metal hoses ? Thx you so much.
Hi and thanks for everything. Concerning you issue - here your system loses pressure and it makes rich mixture out of your system. In order to see what happens actually you must hook up the pressure gauge on both chambers, bridge the fuel pump and see for how much there is difference in pressures. If you have a leaky EHA then replacement only! That much I can tell!
@@mercedeske Thank you ! What do you mean by "both chambers ? (lower and upper side of the distributor ?) I saw a bolt on the lower part who's raccorded to nothing but not on the upper part. Do it have to bridge from this lower bolt to the cold start injector ? Then I think I have to take off EHA Sensor to have clear pressions. (Btw I enjoyed your videos u helped me to save my distributor and to adjust my throttle plate. How can I help you back ?)
At first concerning lower chamber, that's the lower part of the distributor. The screw that is left there like that when you unscrew it you can measure the control pressure with a pressure gauge and the system pressure is measured where the cold start valve connection is located. You just need a pressure gauge with fittings. Measure the system pressure at first, note it and then measure the control pressure and you will see pressure difference which has to be 0.4bar. I'm glad I helped you. If you can donate on PayPal 30euros that would be great. Many greetings and happy Mercedesing 😀
@@mercedeske Do I have to take off the EHA while taking pressure ? You should do a video explaining this checking. I didn't see this one on your UA-cam channel ;)
Do you happen to know the M/B Part Number for the little green "O-rings" that go between the mating surfaces of the EHA & the Fuel Distributor? I'm having terrible trouble finding them (or even a generic part to do the same adequately) and I'm pretty sure it's one of those parts M/B would still stock and I could buy them directly but I need the part number to do so. Also the part number for the long screws (flat or torque head depending on your engine) used to secure the EHA to the Fuel Distributor?
I'm not sure you are going to find the screws under some reference number but you can find them in some mega market I believe or in a shop. I'm not sure about the thread. Concerning the o-rings www.ebay.com/itm/233171329374?hash=item364a18215e:g:JK8AAOSwAwFawkJ5
@@mercedeske ahhh... You're a lifesaver. You also gave me an idea, I have a thread gauge that came with a Tap & Die set I've got, that would be ideal for working out the thread distance. I lost one of the screws & the "random" one I was able to find that was as close to the other as possible refuses to do up without leaking on that side. It *might* just be the O-rings but usually I could get it done up so it didn't leak my tightening up enough.
Hi, only when performing the pressure test. Once the car warms up the EHA must be plugged in in order for you to see if the mixture is lean or rich, if you reached the nominal value.
Hi Ivica, Would you describe step by step procedure of adjusting EHA valve on 1986 190e 2.3 w201. I appreciate if you indicate on each step engine/Ignition off or on, the tester valve open or close. I have a hard time to get a right value, somehow I am not doing it correctly. If you do a video it would be by far better, but steps of process is great also. Thank you
Hi Ivica, I followed your information on the video clip, and came up with these values: - EHA screw adjustment 6.88 mm - Ignition on - 0.14 mA at points 2 & 3 (X11) and 2.0 bar with pressure valve closed - Engine on - (cold) 0.14 mA at X11, and 4.6 bar - After 3 minutes warm up (80 degree), 0 at X11, and 5.0 bar, once I open the valve 5.4 bar - Potentiometer reads as 0.71 Vdc What you think? Thanks
At first on the X11 you measure voltage, not amperage. The amperage(mA) is being measured on the EHA. If you get negative amperage on ignition on then swap the leads on your multimeter. Concerning the potentiometer everything is okay. Measure the voltage on X11 ports 2&3.
hallo mein name ist paolo ich schreibe dir aus italien. da du wirklich gut in der sache bist, darf ich fragen, ob du mir auch das k jetronic solo system des mercedes w116 6 zylinder erklären könntest? Danke sehr
Hallo und liebe Grüße aus Italien, Paolo. Weißt du, die Systeme sind sehr ähnlich. Wenn z.B. das Steuergerät nicht funktioniert dann verhält sich KE als K-Jetronic. Es gibt kein Poti, Leerlaufsteller funktioniert ein bisschen anders, der Leerlauf kann manuell eingestellt werden. Das Gemisch wird anders eingestellt. Alles ist sehr ähnlich.
Hej jag gillar dina yuotub vidios har en fråga till dej min w201 2,3 ryker (smoks) ingen moterlampa lyser bilen går som den skall har fullt oljetryck tack på förhand MvhJonny
Hej tack. Om din bil ryker när det är varmt, försök att byta ut lambdasonden om du inte har gjort det ännu. Om det ryker när det är kallt så är antingen dina injektorer dåliga och du bör byta ut dem eller om du har gjort det så kontrollera din blandning, kanske bilen går rik.
So I have a problem with my 90 300e v6, on a cold start it takes many attempts to start up and if I give it some gas, it will stall, but start right up again, and when it at operating temperature, it will keep running but after 15 minutes it will stall and then it won't start back up, but after many hours I can start it, and it will do the same as i stated above, any advice would be appreciated, thank you very much.
@@mercedeske so i wasn't sure on where and how to check the ignition coil, but i know the distributor cap has a ignition plug go to it, so i started with the distributor cap, after seeing how bad the cap was worn, i was convinced it had to be replaced, it was a bit more expensive then any distributor cap I've ever paid for in a long time, since there is no one making newer cars with distributors, but i had to reuse the old rotor because i only had enough money for the cap, the rotor still looked ok the cap should have been replace a long time ago, when everything was part back together i turned the key and was saddened it wouldn't start, until i realized the battery was drained for seating to long, after 20 minute of pacing back and forth wondering if it was just the battery, i turned the key ... and it started before i turned the key, not really but it sure felt like it did, it turned over right away and idled good and idled down after it warmed up, and didnt idle out when i pressed the gas petal when it was warming up, thank you Sir, when my parents said that they were going to junk the Mercedes cause it would get repaired and break down a few days later they just put in the back and when asked what happened to it and asked if i take a look at it, they said I'd be wasting my time and no one could get it running, i did that day but for a little time about 5 minutes i found a lot of hoses cracked and old, thats was 5 years ago, when they would let me, i would have to explain to Pop why the hoses play a big part in keeping it running, and that I'm not just guessing that is the problem, but it was more then just problems, so every once in a while I would convince them to let me look at the Mercedes again and find something else that could have been a problem and fixed it but goodnight get it to run and not stall and at one time they bought a new truck and wouldn't let me work on a Mercedes anymore that was about 2 years ago until yesterday, moms went to the gas station to put gas in the tank it started up on the first try she got to the gas station got back and it was running just fine except that the check engine light at turned on it was the O2 sensor reading code 17, I believe the check engine light turned on because it was almost out of gas before she went to the store I cleared the code and we'll see if it goes back on for anyting, they have even nicknamed the Mercedes the Mer-Zombie, i am convinced it is back from the dead.
Hehehehehe! I am glad you like these cars. Once you repair them the KE is a very reliable system, you will see. If you just erased the code and you didn't replace the sensor, the code is going to appear again. If it has never been replaced, replace it and then erase the code and that's it.
thank you very much sir, your videos are very useful, hope many more videos from you, greetings from Malaysia.
Thanks. There are going to be, of course. Happy Mercedesing 😃
Thanks. This is the first time I've seen an o-ring on the small screw. If I'm not mistaken, there are 3 oring in total.
The 2 green o-rings and the tiny black one. Many greetings
Thank you very much for your detailed videos!!!
Is there a way to replace the micro filter on the input port/hole of the EHA valve? If so, what should be the process? is this filter a commercial common part?
I'd got my fuel system contaminated and I'm trying to clean & recover most parts as possible.
Just blow it with a carb cleaner! Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😊
@@mercedeske Thanks for the quick response!, but it seems to be clogged after carb cleaner (and falling apart, because I see some kind of plastic or rubber peeking out 😓)
Good afternoon, Thank you in advance for sharing the information about the injection system, it has helped a lot. I have a 190 2.0 petrol, and I'm having problems with the injection part, it only starts with the fuel adjustment valve turned off, if it starts, no petrol comes out of the injectors, I have 5 bars of constant pressure after starting, before I had 6 bars, if you turn on the valve with the engine running, it works normally. Can you help me? Greetings José
Have you tried to see wiring? Looking from the left fender of the car the black wire of the EHA has to be to your left and brown/black to your right.
Hi Ivica, thanks a lot for your videos & they're super helpful for the classic mercedes community. So I would like to ask a few questions. I own a 1989 190E, M102 engine and lately I realized that my EHA valve gets wet just after turning the fuel pump on, very very small leaks but still enough to get me worried.
1) So before I spend the big bucks on it, I'm wondering if just replacing the green O-rings could solve the issue?
2) Is the EHA valve the same for all KE-Jetronic or it varies based on the car (whether it's a W201, a W126, a W124, etc.)?
3) Does a new EHA come adjusted or I have to deal with that brass screw after installing a new EHA?
Thank u!
Hi and thanks,
concerning the EHA - they are all compatible(only at the dealership they will tell you the opposite). If the leaks come from the joint, where the FD and the EHA meet, then you can try replacing the two green o-rings, but if they come from some different place then there is nothing you can do. The brand new one is calibrated but its work depends of the sensors so if you have faulty sensors that need replacement then even that one will not help you, you would need to readjust the allen screw. Looks like I have to do a video on that topic, I think people still don't understand how everything works. Best regards
@@mercedeske Thanks a lot for the quick response. This weekend I'll examine where the leak is exactly coming from; and yes, that video would definitely be helpful.
Keep up the good work .... All the love from Kigali.
@@victor90101 All the live from Knjaževac 😉😃🍀
Hello, how do I know if it is a malfunction? Does the malfunction cause the engine to vibrate?😊
In two cases - a leaky EHA and if its baffle plate is broken. Then the EHA makes constanly lean mixture(pressure difference 0.2bar). That's something you will have to check with your pressure gauge! Best regards!
Thanks for you videos ! I learned a lot about KE-Jetronic.
I rebuild my fuel distributor because of the diaphragm. And now the car don't start. Any fuel goes out of the head in the metal hose.
I noticed that EHA is leaking by a little hole. Is it possible for the engine to not start because this sensor is leaking so no fuel goes in metal hoses ?
Thx you so much.
Hi and thanks for everything. Concerning you issue - here your system loses pressure and it makes rich mixture out of your system. In order to see what happens actually you must hook up the pressure gauge on both chambers, bridge the fuel pump and see for how much there is difference in pressures. If you have a leaky EHA then replacement only! That much I can tell!
@@mercedeske Thank you ! What do you mean by "both chambers ? (lower and upper side of the distributor ?)
I saw a bolt on the lower part who's raccorded to nothing but not on the upper part. Do it have to bridge from this lower bolt to the cold start injector ? Then I think I have to take off EHA Sensor to have clear pressions.
(Btw I enjoyed your videos u helped me to save my distributor and to adjust my throttle plate. How can I help you back ?)
At first concerning lower chamber, that's the lower part of the distributor. The screw that is left there like that when you unscrew it you can measure the control pressure with a pressure gauge and the system pressure is measured where the cold start valve connection is located. You just need a pressure gauge with fittings. Measure the system pressure at first, note it and then measure the control pressure and you will see pressure difference which has to be 0.4bar. I'm glad I helped you. If you can donate on PayPal 30euros that would be great. Many greetings and happy Mercedesing 😀
@@mercedeske Do I have to take off the EHA while taking pressure ?
You should do a video explaining this checking. I didn't see this one on your UA-cam channel ;)
@Xorellion Yes, disconnect the eha. I will provide you the link.
m.ua-cam.com/video/RKxfSdTNARY/v-deo.html
Do you happen to know the M/B Part Number for the little green "O-rings" that go between the mating surfaces of the EHA & the Fuel Distributor?
I'm having terrible trouble finding them (or even a generic part to do the same adequately) and I'm pretty sure it's one of those parts M/B would still stock and I could buy them directly but I need the part number to do so. Also the part number for the long screws (flat or torque head depending on your engine) used to secure the EHA to the Fuel Distributor?
I'm not sure you are going to find the screws under some reference number but you can find them in some mega market I believe or in a shop. I'm not sure about the thread. Concerning the o-rings
www.ebay.com/itm/233171329374?hash=item364a18215e:g:JK8AAOSwAwFawkJ5
@@mercedeske ahhh... You're a lifesaver. You also gave me an idea, I have a thread gauge that came with a Tap & Die set I've got, that would be ideal for working out the thread distance. I lost one of the screws & the "random" one I was able to find that was as close to the other as possible refuses to do up without leaking on that side. It *might* just be the O-rings but usually I could get it done up so it didn't leak my tightening up enough.
Hi,
Do we keep the EHA unplugged during entire test periods?
Hi, only when performing the pressure test. Once the car warms up the EHA must be plugged in in order for you to see if the mixture is lean or rich, if you reached the nominal value.
Hi Ivica,
Would you describe step by step procedure of adjusting EHA valve on 1986 190e 2.3 w201. I appreciate if you indicate on each step engine/Ignition off or on, the tester valve open or close. I have a hard time to get a right value, somehow I am not doing it correctly. If you do a video it would be by far better, but steps of process is great also. Thank you
Hi and thanks. If this video doesn't help, contact me! Happy Mercedesing!
ua-cam.com/video/jeoJHWCugAE/v-deo.html
Hi Ivica,
I followed your information on the video clip, and came up with these values:
- EHA screw adjustment 6.88 mm
- Ignition on - 0.14 mA at points 2 & 3 (X11) and 2.0 bar with pressure valve closed
- Engine on - (cold) 0.14 mA at X11, and 4.6 bar
- After 3 minutes warm up (80 degree), 0 at X11, and 5.0 bar, once I open the valve 5.4 bar
- Potentiometer reads as 0.71 Vdc
What you think?
Thanks
At first on the X11 you measure voltage, not amperage. The amperage(mA) is being measured on the EHA. If you get negative amperage on ignition on then swap the leads on your multimeter. Concerning the potentiometer everything is okay. Measure the voltage on X11 ports 2&3.
Voltage is 0.67 @ X11
@@henrysalem5516 That's too low. How does the car behave?
Where can i find the screw and the o ring of the EHA? thanks!!
If you have a shop in your town selling o-rings. This one is 1×1.5 and STRESS that it has to be petrol resistant!
@@mercedeske Hi! you know the part number, because I live in Costa Rica.
No. This one can't be bought anywhere, just like this as I told you. Either that way or the other EHA. But this is a cheaper way.
Sir my w124 starts but doesn't idle I got another kjet so I would like to know on the eha valve if can it cause it to not idle
Yes, if unnecessary modifications have been done!
hallo mein name ist paolo ich schreibe dir aus italien. da du wirklich gut in der sache bist, darf ich fragen, ob du mir auch das k jetronic solo system des mercedes w116 6 zylinder erklären könntest? Danke sehr
Hallo und liebe Grüße aus Italien, Paolo. Weißt du, die Systeme sind sehr ähnlich. Wenn z.B. das Steuergerät nicht funktioniert dann verhält sich KE als K-Jetronic. Es gibt kein Poti, Leerlaufsteller funktioniert ein bisschen anders, der Leerlauf kann manuell eingestellt werden. Das Gemisch wird anders eingestellt. Alles ist sehr ähnlich.
Hej jag gillar dina yuotub vidios har en fråga till dej min w201 2,3 ryker (smoks) ingen moterlampa lyser bilen går som den skall har fullt oljetryck tack på förhand MvhJonny
Hej tack. Om din bil ryker när det är varmt, försök att byta ut lambdasonden om du inte har gjort det ännu. Om det ryker när det är kallt så är antingen dina injektorer dåliga och du bör byta ut dem eller om du har gjort det så kontrollera din blandning, kanske bilen går rik.
Jag börjar med lamban
Tack ☺️
Bra! Glad att vara till hjälp! Lat det vara "Lycklig Merckörning"😉😃😀
@@mercedeske
Är det bara att sätta i den nya lambasonden ?
MvhJonny
So I have a problem with my 90 300e v6, on a cold start it takes many attempts to start up and if I give it some gas, it will stall, but start right up again, and when it at operating temperature, it will keep running but after 15 minutes it will stall and then it won't start back up, but after many hours I can start it, and it will do the same as i stated above, any advice would be appreciated, thank you very much.
Have you checked the ignition coil?
@@mercedeske no I have not, but i will check it out.
@@mercedeske so i wasn't sure on where and how to check the ignition coil, but i know the distributor cap has a ignition plug go to it, so i started with the distributor cap, after seeing how bad the cap was worn, i was convinced it had to be replaced, it was a bit more expensive then any distributor cap I've ever paid for in a long time, since there is no one making newer cars with distributors, but i had to reuse the old rotor because i only had enough money for the cap, the rotor still looked ok the cap should have been replace a long time ago, when everything was part back together i turned the key and was saddened it wouldn't start, until i realized the battery was drained for seating to long, after 20 minute of pacing back and forth wondering if it was just the battery, i turned the key ... and it started before i turned the key, not really but it sure felt like it did, it turned over right away and idled good and idled down after it warmed up, and didnt idle out when i pressed the gas petal when it was warming up, thank you Sir, when my parents said that they were going to junk the Mercedes cause it would get repaired and break down a few days later they just put in the back and when asked what happened to it and asked if i take a look at it, they said I'd be wasting my time and no one could get it running, i did that day but for a little time about 5 minutes i found a lot of hoses cracked and old, thats was 5 years ago, when they would let me, i would have to explain to Pop why the hoses play a big part in keeping it running, and that I'm not just guessing that is the problem, but it was more then just problems, so every once in a while I would convince them to let me look at the Mercedes again and find something else that could have been a problem and fixed it but goodnight get it to run and not stall and at one time they bought a new truck and wouldn't let me work on a Mercedes anymore that was about 2 years ago until yesterday, moms went to the gas station to put gas in the tank it started up on the first try she got to the gas station got back and it was running just fine except that the check engine light at turned on it was the O2 sensor reading code 17, I believe the check engine light turned on because it was almost out of gas before she went to the store I cleared the code and we'll see if it goes back on for anyting, they have even nicknamed the Mercedes the Mer-Zombie, i am convinced it is back from the dead.
Hehehehehe! I am glad you like these cars. Once you repair them the KE is a very reliable system, you will see. If you just erased the code and you didn't replace the sensor, the code is going to appear again. If it has never been replaced, replace it and then erase the code and that's it.
That's is a problem sir if engine has hard starting?thanks
Which one? A cold or a warm start?
Hello, is it normal if any leak of fuel on adjusting screw?
Hello. Yes, it's normal for fuel to be there.
@@mercedeske ok thank you
It's a strange invention by Bosch, I am yet to see one that doesn't look like it leaks to at least some degree.