That was a great and practical review. It made me think twice about getting a wooden waster sword. My situation, I don't have anyone nearby that knows of HEMA. It may be more valuable to buy a couple of wooden wasters so I can slowly and safely bring a partner into sparring with me and hopefully convince them to buy their own gear.
When I make wasters I build them the other way around. The ledge that the guard juts against is facing the other way and I put wedges in from the bottom. It makes it so that the guard will knock loose long before it cracks. So if it gets beat on a little to hard, repair is just a matter of re-shimming. I've also found that putting the guard on top of the ledge can cause splits in the handle. It's not too good for reverberation either. With the ledge on top of the guard, a hit on one side sends most of the shock into the ledge on the other side and back up the blade. Another thing it does is narrow the handle down a bit. Which means it can be wrapped to desired thickness.
Hello there! I have come to inform that these wasters are no longer avaliable, and or that the link in the description is no longer working- Thank you for your time, and great video!
I was struck in the face with a poly cold steel blade during a back yard practice causing a superficial presur cut but I'm more on the side of pain is a good teacher reason I don't really care for using the heavy gloves so in my opinion if you're using woden or stiff plastic training sword there fine to work at a medium slow pace as long as you trust your partener and he/she trusts you
The problem you mention, in regards to plastic/synthetic training swords, is not a plastic/synthetic issue. It's a Purpleheart armoury plastic/synthetic issue. Neither the Rawlings synthetics, nor the Blackfencer ones, have that issue.
Please review the Windlass Suontaka Sword you own. I'm Finnish and would like to know more about this weapon. The original was found in a woman's grave dated back to 1000AD in Suontaka Finland, but is very similar to swords made in Langeid, Norway. Thus, this weapon may have migrated. If you could review and compare, that would be great. Plus, the replica uses a different metal then what was originally used, could this contribute in a weight difference? Are there any swords that originated from Finland or have my ancestors only used knives and axes? Thanks.
So what do you want the wood to do/be? First: Not splinter either from catastrophic failure (dangerous) or wear (annoying painful) Second: Durability? Third weight flex? Fourth?
The first waster I ever held was a friends hollow earth two handed sword. Perhaps it is the nostalgia effect, but I have not yet held a wooden or synthetic waster that I would consider better than that hollow earth.
The drawback you point out about nylon swords isn't universal. I think this one is an older version of a blackfencer. Newer versions have a properly shaped crossguards. The video is interesting nonetheless
You missed one option for a trainer. Shinai with a crossfire. We use basically 3 types of swords: Feders for tournament or full speed sparring Steel sword for technique training Shinai for beginners and sparring without protection (except light gloves and mask)
IMO, there are only two sensible purposes for wooden swords: A cheap, basic sword-like thing, to start some _very basic_ training with ...or re-enactment or demonstration, where you want to represent medieval sword training. In both cases, you want a very simple and basic thing, with nothing fancy like having proper balance/weight or nice finish.
That was a great and practical review. It made me think twice about getting a wooden waster sword. My situation, I don't have anyone nearby that knows of HEMA. It may be more valuable to buy a couple of wooden wasters so I can slowly and safely bring a partner into sparring with me and hopefully convince them to buy their own gear.
you could wrap electrical insulation tape around the end of the handle to make a makeshift pommel. just dont try to "end them rightly"
When I make wasters I build them the other way around. The ledge that the guard juts against is facing the other way and I put wedges in from the bottom. It makes it so that the guard will knock loose long before it cracks. So if it gets beat on a little to hard, repair is just a matter of re-shimming. I've also found that putting the guard on top of the ledge can cause splits in the handle. It's not too good for reverberation either. With the ledge on top of the guard, a hit on one side sends most of the shock into the ledge on the other side and back up the blade. Another thing it does is narrow the handle down a bit. Which means it can be wrapped to desired thickness.
Hello there! I have come to inform that these wasters are no longer avaliable, and or that the link in the description is no longer working-
Thank you for your time, and great video!
Calimacil swords are great. That wooden at 9:40 looks great as well
I was struck in the face with a poly cold steel blade during a back yard practice causing a superficial presur cut but I'm more on the side of pain is a good teacher reason I don't really care for using the heavy gloves so in my opinion if you're using woden or stiff plastic training sword there fine to work at a medium slow pace as long as you trust your partener and he/she trusts you
Great video and thanks for the first impressions!
The problem you mention, in regards to plastic/synthetic training swords, is not a plastic/synthetic issue. It's a Purpleheart armoury plastic/synthetic issue.
Neither the Rawlings synthetics, nor the Blackfencer ones, have that issue.
Well the Blackfencers used to have that problem - I actually think that is a V2 or V3 Longsword by Blackfencer he shows in the video.
Please review the Windlass Suontaka Sword you own. I'm Finnish and would like to know more about this weapon. The original was found in a woman's grave dated back to 1000AD in Suontaka Finland, but is very similar to swords made in Langeid, Norway. Thus, this weapon may have migrated. If you could review and compare, that would be great. Plus, the replica uses a different metal then what was originally used, could this contribute in a weight difference? Are there any swords that originated from Finland or have my ancestors only used knives and axes?
Thanks.
So what do you want the wood to do/be?
First: Not splinter either from catastrophic failure (dangerous) or wear (annoying painful)
Second: Durability?
Third weight flex?
Fourth?
Do you have a link for the New Sterling wooden waster?
Have you ever used a Hollow Earth Armory waster? Allot of the folks in Texas seem to like theirs. I know I like my longsword waster from them.
And Hollow Earth also has an Etsy store now.
The first waster I ever held was a friends hollow earth two handed sword.
Perhaps it is the nostalgia effect, but I have not yet held a wooden or synthetic waster that I would consider better than that hollow earth.
The drawback you point out about nylon swords isn't universal. I think this one is an older version of a blackfencer. Newer versions have a properly shaped crossguards. The video is interesting nonetheless
You missed one option for a trainer. Shinai with a crossfire.
We use basically 3 types of swords:
Feders for tournament or full speed sparring
Steel sword for technique training
Shinai for beginners and sparring without protection (except light gloves and mask)
What’s with the double eye blink?
So any chance we have a historia on the way?
Is it a shim or wedge? As a wood worker, if I wanted to hold a cross piece firmly in place, I would install a wedge.
I like your thinking!
What happend? Are you fine ? Is everything ok ?
Interestingly enough, the word isn't even pronounced waist-er, but as wahst-er. I just learned that today.
What's going on? Two months without upload...
dude you need museum.
Been two months since last video. Anybody know what is up
Please see my recent community post.
IMO, there are only two sensible purposes for wooden swords: A cheap, basic sword-like thing, to start some _very basic_ training with ...or re-enactment or demonstration, where you want to represent medieval sword training. In both cases, you want a very simple and basic thing, with nothing fancy like having proper balance/weight or nice finish.
Why not just buy several and have a small battle among your friends
i have never liked wooden wasters, too bulky and hit too hard. for this Gorman one, the short blade and no pommel would be a definite deal breaker.
ryanricks Wasters hit too hard? Compared to a real sword, or...?
compared to sythetics or feders, in my experience at least
Come back
winners don't use plastic 😎
Whittling one out of oak as I watch